The American Wine Society W neJ ournal winter 2020 Remembering Exploring Elmer Temecula Swenson Valley A Taste of North To Age Carolina Or Not To Age? ArnieEsterer Remembering the Ohio Wine Pioneer 1932-2020 CONTENTS SIPTALK RESEARCH 6 6 Remembering Elmer Swenson 22 Côte Chalonnaise -Stephen Casscles -Roger Morris 3x Swenson’s work ultimately led to his creation The Côte Chalonnaise has serious curb of many valuable cool climate grape varieties. appeal, and both producers and wine His grape breeding program consisted of consumers are taking note. Winery of the Year... Hat Trick! more than 700 cataloged grape hybrids. 25 Temecula Valley -Roger Morris Temecula Valley is quite unlike other WINE101 West Coast wine-producing regions in what it produces or how it does business 10 2017 To Age or Not to Age – yet it shares some attributes with many 10 different regions in the United States. Northwest -Allison Bettin Winery of the Whether to age your wine—it seems like 2 EAR Year 010 HE Y a no-brainer, but in this day and age, the SMALL WINERY OF T N O R T H W E S T answer may surprise you. INDUSTRYNEWS Flavor Intensity 13 New or Noteworthy -Kevin Harmon 28 -Jim Rink In addition to drinking a lot of wine, one of the Jim Rink delivers the latest happenings quickest and easiest ways to gain knowledge 15 and figure out what you like and what you from the wine industry. don’t like is understanding flavor intensity. TRAVEL AR 202 E YE PERSPECTIVE 0 SM OF TH ALL WINERY 15 A Taste of North Carolina 31 How Much is That AVA Worth? -Sharon Flesher -Andrew Chalk In the shadow of the Blue Ridge According to Harry Peterson-Nedry of Mountains, a diverse band of upstart Ribbon Ridge Winery and Ridgecrest vintners is redefining North Carolina’s Vineyards, in Oregon, it could be as much 18 wine industry. A�ter all we’ve experie�ced i� this wild year, I’m a�azed to look as 25% per bottle. “ back a�d still see all the blessi�gs. Receivi�g a third Wi�ery FEATURE of the Year” award certai�ly is reason to be tha�kful! Front Cover: Arnie Esterer. Photo Arnie Esterer Mention AWS AD 18 courtesy of Markko Vineyards and ~ Stephe� M. Reustle, Owner/Wi�e�aker -Jim Rink I had the privilege of meeting Arnie businessjournaldaily.com and receiveyour rst 20%New Customersorder! o only Esterer in 1997, while I was doing research on an article for the AWS Journal about Back Cover: Arnie Esterer. Photo Oer not valid on discounted items the Lake Erie Quality Wine Alliance. The courtesy of Markko Vineyards. 25 Alliance is defunct, but Arnie will never FOR AVAILABLE WINES VISIT WWW.REUSTLEVINEYARDS.COM be, at least not in spirit. TO PLACE AN ORDER CALL MARLA AT THE WINERY 541.459.6060 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 3 Founder Konstantin Frank ’ AWS National Officers and Board of Directors VOLUME 52 NO. 4 WINTER 2020 ABOUT AWS President Vice President Secretary EDITOR S LETTER The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A Joseph Broski Michael Wangbickler Leanne Wheeler Published by non-profit group, theAWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its Treasurer Director of Director of The American Wine Society members include wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional Thomas Wallman Educational Services Competitions a non-profit corporation, wine-makers, chefs, wine appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs, and anyone Aaron Mandel Rex Bambling PO Box 889, Scranton, PA 18501 wanting to learn more about wine. Director of Executive Member Services AWS ACTIVITIES Member Services Director Manager Single copies $5.00 Jay Bileti David Falchek Katherine Kearney JIM RINK Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, wine- Copyright 2020 AWS Inc. © All rights Past Presidents making and cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging reserved. Reproduction or use of 1967-1970 1971-1972 1973-1974 events, and other wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have Albert W. Robert A. Dickmann Carol W. Damoth editorial or pictorial content without Laubengayer nothing to fear. Chapters are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend 1977-1978 1979-1980 written permission is prohibited. 1975-1976 Kathryn Froelich Joseph P. Nardone a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local chapter does not exist in your area, the national office Jerry S. Miller will be glad to assist in forming a chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine 1983-1984 1985-1986 1981-1982 Michael A. Farren Lewis H. France, Jr. Library of Congress Class Number: lovers. Meeting can be informal and held in member homes or in other settings, John M. Hasson 1989-1990 1991 TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900 such as restaurants and wineries. 1987-1988 Alton A. Long Stephen R. Kampers "I drink to make other people more interesting." Thomas C. Iezzi, Jr. Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine 1993 1994 1992 Alcide L.Porrell George E. Wilson - Ernest Hemingway Publisher judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and J. Randy Hurteau David Falchek special dinners. 1996 1997 1995 Raymond A. Hartung, Eugene J. Spaziani Kenneth P. Brewer Jr. 2000 Editor National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference 1998 1999 Charles E. Hastings Gary C. Pavlis Gayle M. Darugh Jim Rink and extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine- 2003 It is said that winter is the season of solitude, perhaps even more so with Covid-19. But lovers, wine-makers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. 2001 2002 Frank C. Aquilino Pamela J. Davey William H. Eisberg solitude was a fortress for Superman and it can also be for us. What better time to raid our Prominent American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures 2006 Contributing Writers 2004 2005 Janice Cobett wine cellars and and sit with a glass. In a warm sweater. With a crackling fire. Fully fortified. Allison Bettin, Stephen Casscles, on all aspects of wine appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. Willis L. Parker Tom Castronovo Members experience fine food at connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of Sharon Flesher, Kevin Harmon, 2007 2008-2009 2010-2011 hundreds of wines and royal treatment by the finest American hotels and resorts. Albert L. Guber, Jr. Raymond A. Hartung, Willis L. Parker Roger Morris, and Jim Rink Jr. In this issue, Roger Morris introduces us to an affordable Burgundy that come with great The annual conference brings professionals, serious amateurs and novices together 2012-2014 2015-2016 2017-2018 “curb appeal” — Côte Chalonnaise. Roger also gives the backstory on Temecula Valley in to discover what is new in wine. Jane M. Duralia Editorial Office Frank C. Aquilino Kristin Kraft California, a lesser-know, but diverse wine growing region. Sharon Flesher, a North Carolina Jim Rink transplant, gives us a taste of the history and wines in her new home state. Stephen Casscles 20020 Maple St. AWS MEMBER BENEFITS INCLUDE: has the inside scoop on Minnesota wine pioneer Elmer Swenson. Lake Ann, MI 49650 • Participation in local chapter • AWS vintage charts [email protected] JOIN AWS activities and events • Wine Judge Certification Program We welcome Allison Bettin the Journal. In this issue, Allison examines the age-old question: • Participation in local, regional and • National Wine Tasting Project “Should I age my wine?” The answer may surprise you. Our resident chef Kevin Harmon Unsolicited manuscripts or other national events information will not be returned unless Join on-line at americanwinesociety.org or mail in the form below • Wine-making competitions takes a look at flavor intensity in wine, with short descriptions and easy-to-follow, delicious • Personalized membership card accompanied by return postage. • AWS Wine Competition Discounts recipes pairing wine with food. 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We are ready to help! 888-AWS-9070 fax: 570-344-4825 Phone w/Area Code Email email: [email protected] 4 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 5 RESEARCH Elmer Swenson Pioneer Cool Climate Grape Breeder (1913-2004) By J. Stephen Casscles, Esq. Much has been written about the grapes of Elmer Swenson and the renaissance that he helped to initiate in American cool and cold climate grape breeding.