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A Fascination with a Cartoon Animal and a Class V River Lured Her to The

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A Fascination with a Cartoon Animal and a Class V River Lured Her to The A fascination with a cartoon THE animal and a Class V river lured her to the empty wilderness of Tasmania. Turns out the raw side of Down devil Under offers an made me amazing number of pristine places to camp, surf, hike, mountain bike, and kayak. STEPHANIE PEARSON goes all in. Bruny Island, off Tasmania’s southern coast DO IT 68 OUTSIDE MAGAZINE Cocooned in my sleeping bag, I stare a foot by the Franklin. Fewer than 500 people per vish that zoomed around like a tornado, above me at whorls of coral and register that year attempt it, and some don’t come out the slicing through boulders and trees. In 2000, I’m lying under thousands of tons of over­ other end. In 1822, eight convicts fled into the I cycled and road­tripped for six weeks hanging rock. We’re camping alongside the Franklin watershed to escape Sarah Island through mainland Australia while reading Franklin River at the Newlands Cascades rap­ prison, the British Empire’s version of the Robert Hughes’s The Fatal Shore, a history ids, in the shallow caves that form the base of Gulag Archipelago, on Tasmania’s west coast. of Oz’s settling, in which Tasmania played a aThe limestone wall 100 feet high.cave I can make out Only oneis man, Alexander like Pearce, walked out acritical and darkwomb. role. In 1803, the British cap­ a delicate web on the ceiling, likely the work alive—after killing and eating five of his fel­ italized on the island’s isolation, colonizing it of a Tasmanian cave spider, and wonder if a low escapees. The river’s namesake, colonial as van Diemen’s land, the dumping ground tiger snake, the world’s fourth­deadliest ser­ governor and Arctic explorer Sir John Frank­ for repugnant criminals, harmless urchins, pent, will slither past. But that’s not my most lin, crossed the waterway but never paddled and homeless women. It took the penal col­ pressing concern. its length. (He died of starvation in 1847 while ony just 73 years to wipe out the estimated The rain has been pouring down in sheets searching for the Northwest Passage.) And in 4,000 pure­blood Aboriginal people, whose for the past 12 hours, and the thundering 1994, author Richard Flanagan wrote Death lineage here dates back 40,000 years. It took rush of the swiftly rising Franklin is just 30 of a River Guide, a grim read based on his own only 60 more for the motley crew, along with feet below. The 78­mile­long, pool­drop near drowning on the Franklin. The book is the few free settlers who chose to live among river boils with technical Class III–vI rapids sitting next to my sleeping bag. them, to hunt the thylacine, or Tasmanian crashing through the nearly impenetrable Fernon’s oft repeated mantra echoes tiger, to apparent extinction. But the convicts Franklin­Gordon Wild Rivers National Park, through my brain: “You can never be too para­ who managed to stay out of trouble served in the heart of the 3.5­million­acre Tasma­ noid down here.” He would know. The so­ their seven years of hard labor and took ad­ nian Wilderness World Heritage Area. Its called Godfather of the Franklin has paddled vantage of the freedom in Tasmania. Even Surf break on tannin­stained water is as dark as Guinness the river more than 200 times in the past 26 today, the state’s license plate reads ExPlORE the Tasman Peninsula beer but so clean we drink it straight, with no years. A lanky six foot one, he’s a registered THE Possibilities. filtration. The Franklin flows through a deep nurse and Sydney native, and he resembles Because their ancestors forged civilization ravine (1,300 feet at its deepest) and is so wet a bird of prey, with winged graying hair, a out of ferocious wilds, many Tasmanians (100 inches of precipitation per year fall in beaked nose, and fierce intensity when he’s have a deep love and respect for untouched some places) that just two inches of rain can on the water. When he’s relaxed, he unleashes ter ritory. More than 40 percent of Tas­ cause it to rise ten feet in two hours. Which is a goofy, talkative side while whipping up din­ mania’s landmass is protected in reserves, what I fear is happening now. ner. Fernon’s seen it all down here, including World Heritage Areas, and 19 national parks. The river has risen 13 feet since our seven­ runaway rafts, snake­ infested campgrounds, “In a world where wilderness is perhaps person group—four Australians, one South African, one Austrian, and me— arrived at the “In a world where campsite two days ago with dramatic flour­ ish. Right before eddying out, Ron Wiffen, WILDERNESS IS PERHAPS and T HEthe a 63­year­old plumber from Queensland, pristine values of nature are being destroyed at a great rate, and Graham Freeman, a 25­year­old from FASTEST-DISAPPEARING NATURAL RESOURCE Johannesburg, who were powering the front Tasmania is like a Noah’s Ark,” says Bob Brown, a medical of our 15­foot rubber raft, were deep­sixed doctor and the state’s most iconic environmentalist. headfirst into the 50­degree water after we banged into a boulder. The next day, which we spent exploring, bones and boats cracked in half, and heli­ the fastest­disappearing natural resource went smoothly. We swung like monkeys on copter evacs. But he feels at home on the and the pristine values of nature are being branches, bushwhacking through the tem­ Franklin, even as it’s threatening us. “We’ve destroyed at a great rate, Tasmania is like perate rainforest, a primeval garden of giant been trapped by Mother Nature,” he says. He a Noah’s Ark,” says Bob Brown, a medical man ferns, sassafras, pandani, and rare, slow­ sounds exhilarated. doctor and the state’s most iconic environ­ growing, 130­foot Huon pines that were here mentalist; he was the head of the Wilderness before Christ, in wilderness so empty that THE FRANklIN RIvER is a fitting metaphor Society, then went on to spend 16 years as a we’ve seen zero people in six days. But the for Tasmania: beautiful, terrible, sublime, Green Party senator in the federal govern­ rain started late that night and has remained bizarre, and very, very remote. This West ment. “Our glory days are ahead of us, but steady, stranding us for the foreseeable future. virginia–size island invented the bushranger not without eternal vigilance.” Brett Fernon, our 53­year­old Aussie guide (the Oz version of an outlaw hero), gave Holly­ There’s a lot worth protecting. Of Tas­ and the owner of outfitter Water by Nature wood Errol Flynn (who was born in Tasma­ mania’s 500,000 residents, 212,000 live in Tasmania, tells me that this is the highest level nia’s capital, Hobart), and established the Hobart, a funky waterfront city on the slopes he’s ever seen. “Bloody hell! I don’t think it’s world’s first green party in 1972. of 4,166­foot Mount Wellington, with paved peaked yet,” he says, scanning the narrow I’ve been obsessed with the island’s ex­ and off­road hiking and mountain­biking sliver of sky. “It’s a bit tricky trying to get out tremes for years. I was raised on looney trails in every direction. The city sits on the The Overland of here at the moment.” Tunes, and my interest was aroused by the mouth of the Derwent River, which flows Track We’re not the first party to be buggered Tasmanian Devil, a.k.a. Taz, a whirling der­ into the Tasman Sea, and its convict­built, SMITH/REDUX. MAURICE DAVID SEAN DAVEY/GETTY; TOP: FROM PAGE, OPPOSITE HOENNER/GETTY. XAVIER PAGES: PREVIOUS 70 OUTSIDE MAGAZINE OUTSIDEONLINE.COM 71 waterfront sandstone facades have been ren­ ment and log in the World Heritage Area. higher, so I cover my head with my sleeping ovated into hipster hotels, restaurants, and Meanwhile, many of the remaining disease­ bag and wait until whichever comes first: bars—at least five floating shacks sell fish­ free Tasmanian devils live in the Tarkine, a dawn or drowning. and­chips in the harbor. They’re all packed 1.2­million­acre unprotected wilderness At 6:55 A.M., it’s still raining, and the water with locals, climate scientists on break from also in a conservation battle. Environmental­ level is now two feet higher than Fernon has Antarctica, or Asian tourists dining on the ists are lobbying for national park and World ever seen it, but it miraculously retreats day’s oyster and seafood catch, accompa­ Heritage status, but competing for space are enough for us to consider launching into a nied by pinot noirs produced sketchy Class Iv wave train. At just down the road. One reason 10 A.M., the rain stops. We load, the state is getting an infusion launch, and paddle, whooping of international travelers is like rodeo cowboys. Beyond MONA, the Museum of Old the first hurdle, the river is so and New Art, a $200 million Bass Strait swollen that the rapids have steel bunker dreamed up by disappeared, replaced by swirl­ local gambling tycoon David TARKINE ing boils. We book it 26 miles WILDERNESS TASMANIA Walsh that is full of provoca­ downriver to the confluence Cradle Mountain– On the Launceston tive works—like a defe cating of the Gordon, which was Lake St. Clair Overland National Park Track machine that unleashes “ feces” dammed in 1972, in record­ at 2 P.M.
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