Vol. 11, 1971 30 c

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Melbourne Bushwalkers Inc. makes no warranty as to the accuracy or completeness of any content of this work. Melbourne Bushwalkers Inc. disclaims any warranty for the content, and will not be liable for any damage or loss resulting from the use of any content. THE only Bushwalking Specialists • Paddymade Equipment Rucksacks Sleeping Bags Blacks' Tents Stubai Rock Climbing Gear Dehydrated Food Stoves Hire of Tents, Sleeping Bags and Rucksacks Discount to Members of Recognised W a Iking Clubs • l THE LEADING SKI and BUSHWALKING CENTRE 9 HARDWARE STREET, MELBOURNE, 3000 Phone: 67-1412 - 67-1767 Vol. ll, 1971

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WALK is a voluntary, non-profit venture published by the Melbourne Bushwalkers in the interests of bushwalking as a healthy and enjoyable recreation. WALK Vol. 22, 1971 CONTENTS Editorial 3 Kooyoora Fred Halls 4 Bushgamesmanship Michael Griffin 9 Plant Life in the Grampians J. H. Willis 13 Camera varia lvor Davies 19 The Cherry Tree Range Athol Schafer 25 Mount Eccles National Park Graham Errey 26 The Mount Arapiles Area Athol Schafer 29 Tasmania's Wilderness Jon Cairns 33 Obituary ... 41 An Army Bushwalk Geoff Kenafacke 43 Mountain Muster 46 Books for Bushwalkers 49 The State of Mapping Barry Short 53

WALKS SECTION Allenvale- Cumberland Track - Mount Cowley -Won Wondah Falls (2 days) ...... 55 Aire Valley - Wild Dog Creek - Skenes Creek - Kennett River (2 days) . 56 The Bluff (2 days) 58 Halls Gap - Mount William Track - Boronia Peak - Lake Bell- field - Halls Gap (I day) 62 Halls Gap - Clematis Falls - Chatauqua Peak - Bullaces Glen- Mount Difficult Lookout - Stony Creek - Halls Gap (I day) . 62 Four One-Day Walks in the Mount Cole State Forest 65 The Big Hill - Hunchback Creek - Yarra Glen (I day) . 69 Trawool - Meadows Hill - Breech Peak - Tallarook (1 day) 69 Kilmore East - Broadhurst Creek - Monument Tower - Kilmore -Kilmore East (1 day) 70 Bullarto - Bullarto Reservoir - Babbingtons Hill - Lyonville Mineral Spring - Little Hampton - Trentham Falls - Tren- tham (1 day) ... 71 Cockatoo - Mount Majestic - Toomuc Valley - Pakenham (1 day) 71 Toolangi - Pauls Range - Schoolhouse Ridge (1 day) 72

MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS always welcome visitors on their walks which include easy one-day excursions and week-end trips. Extended walking tours of three days or more are also included on the programme. If you are interested, then call in any Wednesday night, from 8 to 10.30 p.m., to the clubroom, Hosier Lane, Melbourne (at the rear of the Forum Theatre). Details may be obtained by writing to the Hon. Secre­ tary, Box 175/Q, G.P.O ., Melbourne 3001, or by phoning 97 3724. 2 EDITORIAL

Over recent months there has been a great upsurge in bushwalking activity in this Club. It would appear to us that the growing interest in this self-reliant activity is a rejection of the trends of our society with its mass spectator entertainment, its crowded living and its increasing pollution.

We believe it is necessary to maintain large areas of our bushland in its natural state to allow people to escape from the city environment.

This leads us to ask- why should there be a road over the Baw Baw Plateau? There are not many alpine areas remaining in their un­ spoilt state, Jet us preserve what we have left. By all means let there be access roads of good quality but they should not be the dominating feature of the area.

Let the Government Departments concerned take note from the Mount Skene Road, where just two months after its opening the lookout points were carpeted with cans, glass and other rubbish expelled from cars. Certainly roads allow all sections of the community access to scenic areas, but unfortunately all too often the result is a trail of rubbish which spoils the countryside for those who follow. Not only do roads and so called development give rise to aesthetic pollution but also they have a great detrimental effect on the flora and fauna of an area.

Twelve months ago the conservation battle was the Little Desert. This year it is the Baw Baws. Where will it be next year? How long will it be until we have areas of our State preserved for all time for all people to enjoy in its unspoilt beauty?

3 KOOYOORA By Fred. Halls

The Kulin Nation was a group of central Victorian aboriginal tribes whose country extended from The Otways and Avoca River in the west, to the Kelly Country and Cape Liptrap in the east. According to the legends of the Kulin people, during the Alcher­ ingas' time the fabled Mindi, or Bunyip Snake, was a monstrous man­ eater at least ten miles long. All sorts of epidemics were caused by this repulsive reptile who had a most offensive smell, which fortunately warned tribesmen of its presence, for to see the Mindi was to die. It was believed to have a huge maned head and whenever it hissed it thrust out a three­ pointed tongue. The Mindi's territory was centred about a large granitic hill "Bukkerbunyel" situated some fourteen miles north-west of Wedder­ burn; while "Neel-kunnung" a nearby creek, was a place where it quenched its thirst. The Jajawurong Tribe, a Loddon people of the Kulin Nation, con­ sidered that the Mallee scrubs of the north-west section of their terri­ tory was the Mindi's country. Fear of the legendary terrible Mindi Snake and of the presence of the dreaded Mindi Scales probably caused the Kulins to avoid the Bukkerbunyel-Wedderburn region. These Mindi Scales, white flakes spread all over the hard red earth, were believed to be the result of the dreadful disease, smallpox, a punishment inflicted for tribal transgressions by Mindi at the bidding of the great All-Father, Bunyel The Eaglehawk. One translation of the mountain name Bukkerbunyel is considered to be "den of the Bunjil Snake". A large area around Mindi's mound was hard red earth covered with a substance similar to hail - these were the fabled Mindi Scales. Were they the sulphate of lime nodules so com­ mon in the Mallee scrubs or quartz chips scattered over hard red soil? The Bunyip Snake had the assistance of numerous little Mindis to help it punish erring tribesmen. It never acted of its own accord, but only to punish at the bidding of its great Master Bunyel. Nobody could escape the monster except the family group known as the Munnie Brum Brum who roamed the Mindi's country with impunity. All other people of the Jajawurong Tribe fled in the utmost haste from the dreaded Bun­ yip Snake. There seems to be evidence of some past aboriginal presence thirty miles south of Bukkerbunyel. During a recent ramble through the ranges south of Melville Caves I accidentally stumbled upon what may have originally been an aboriginal rock well, situated on a flat granite ridge above the orchards of Rheola, within sight of a huge balancing rock. The well, which is roughly oval in shape, measures five feet by four feet and is at least three feet deep, contains a good supply of water even during the heat of midsummer. Midway between Wedderburn and Inglewood the highest point on a range to the right has an unbroken granite slab facing north; this is Kooyoora, Mountain of Light. Among the mammoth lichen-covered boulders the most spectacular of all rock shelters in the Melville Caves region are to be found on the western spur of this mountain. Below the basilisk stare of a huge 4 Mount Kooyoora. Photo by E. Lawton. reptile turned into stone during the Dreamtime, boulders larger than any house are piled high on the slopes forming huge cavities and crevices. Names of some of the strange rock formations in the Kooyoora region are indicative of the weird effect of weathering among the outcrops­ Seal Rock, The Rocking Stone, Camel Rock, The Windows, Mushroom Rock and The Toast Rack. Early in October the summit of Kooyoora- and many of the nearby hills as well- appears to be a green and gold rockstrewn natural park. The grass seems neatly clipped, with ornamental golden shrubs of Wallowa dotted here and there in the most suitable positions. Nature has excelled with various landscaping effects. Another feature is the steep smooth wall of Kooyoora's north face which is quite a tough climb without the help of proper rock climbing equipment. It is not the steepness that deters, but the icy smoothness of its unbroken granite surface quite often covered by a thin film of slime. A tiny spring of clear water issues from the foot of a reddish boulder, bubbles through a peaceful glade of ancient red gums and tender green rock ferns before disappearing shortly into a dry creek bed. The fading light of evening casts long rays of golden glow over rugged boulders and all is peaceful in the secluded rock-bound valleys. On the eastern slopes below granite tors can be found Broad Tongue Diuris, Blue Fairies, Trim Greenhoods, Waxlip and Snake Orchids, and numerous other species of plants. Quite a good area for the bush­ walker naturalist. At Melville's Caves the presence of coppery cups of the Scarlet Sundew and the light pink blooms of Scented Sundew with the deep red basal rosettes, is a sign of lack of nitrogen in the soil. By means of sticky hairs these plants trap and digest minute insects to counteract this nitrogen deficiency. 5 Three miles south of Kooyoora from the immediate vicinity of the Melville Caves, part of the range continues east-south-east past a series of red tors and green gold pocket valleys, terminating at the eastern end in a long unbroken slab of granite. Still further south-east lie the dry Kingower Ranges covered by the 4,000 acre State Forest of Red Iron­ bark. A dozen miles north of Wedderburn the road traverses through the Mysia Granites, another region of mammoth granite formations similar to that of Melville's Caves. The Mysia Granites is a region surrounded mainly by grasslands, the one time open forest now mainly destroyed by the disastrous fire of early 1969. As in other dry regions, the Mallee type scrub and its attendant wildlife has adapted to a harsh environment. Wildflowers abound during a suitable season in many of the Mallee patches around Wedderburn. The flora in some of these scrubs shows a marked similarity to that of the Bendigo Whipstick and also to parts of the controversial Little Desert. Ten miles north of Wedderburn on the Wychitella road, a narrow bush track leaves to the south towards Skinner's Flat through monotonous grey-green Mallee thickets. Three-quarters of a mile out the track crosses a low ridge covered with BeJar, Buloke, various Paperbarks and Mallee. There are five varieties of Mallee growing in the Wychitella Forest­ Bull, White, Narrow Leaf Red, Green and Oil Mallees. Springtime comes early on the BeJar rises. It seems that whenever you visit the Wychitella Forest there will be some shrubs blooming, such is the great variety of plants. This is a scented garden when the warmth of September stirs the Belars. The balmy breeze whispers through the trees growing on the low rise among the Golden Wattle and Flame Heath. The Desert Baeckea, with its closely clustered blooms covering the stems in various shades of mauve, grows in this region together with the Bent Leaf Wattle, Small Cooba, Erect Guinea Flower, Cranberry Heath and Desert Grevillea. For a considerable distance parallel to the track knee-high masses of Fringed Heath-myrtle grow thickly in a shallow dry creek bed. During spring the air smells sweetly with the honeyed scent of its myriad tiny pink blossoms. I thought that August on the Belar rises would be difficult to sur­ pass. How wrong I was! It was but a pale shadow of the glorious mid­ October scene, the shrubby ridges a blaze of colour, the honeyed air carrying the hum of a thousand bees. Walk away from the track through the singing Casuarinas and all around is a sea of colour. If you should ever travel to the Wychitella Forest or Melville's Caves during summer heat it will probably be grossly disappointing, for during this period the region is surely "a sunburnt country". The clean pungent smell of eucalyptus pervades the dry air, distilled from the Mal­ lee thickets by the burning sun. Often during summer the lagoons near Skinner's Flat are like some red outback billabong under a pitiless sun, with wide eroded flats and red-banked channel. Dry and harsh it may be, but the wild creatures are still there as witness the numerous tracks of Lowan and Kangaroo. Maybe a startled black Wallaby will bound away from dense patches of shade. 6 WORLD CHAMPION COMPASS

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7 Listening to the numerous bird calls and exammmg various spore marks in the soft red mud at the track crossings of non-perennial creeks, there is an indication of the plentiful wildlife such as Wallabies, Native Cats, and Kangaroos. Lowans, large Wattle Birds, Grey Fantails, various Honeyeaters, Blackbacked Magpies and Ravens are some of the 123 varieties of birds to be found in the Wychitella Mallee. Some of the birds frequent only Mallee type scrubs. Wandering through the thickets away from tracks you are quite likely to discover the large incubator mounds of the Lowan (Mallee Fowl). This unique bird has a sensitive beak which is used to test the temperature of decaying vegetation incubating its eggs in the huge mound. People think that they are lucky to see even one Mallee Fowl these days. I consider that I was very fortunate indeed to see three of these rare birds within a small area east of the BeJar ridge. They were stout grey birds with brown flecked wings, as large and plump as any turkey. A small Mallee wilderness of 3,500 acres ten miles north of Wedder­ burn is important because it is the closest habitat to Melbourne of the unique Lowan. Some of the best examples of Mallee flora may be seen in the vicinity of Kurting, sixteen miles south-east of Wedderburn. Leaving Kurting on the Kingower road, in just over a mile a road junction is reached. A track turns east through various eucalyptus leases. Mallee plants in roadside reserves further back show a magnificent blaze of colour in early October dominated by the dusty pink of the Common Fringe Myrtle. The pale blue of Grooved Dampiera contrasts strongly with Golden Pennants and Golden Guinea Flowers, while the taller violet bottlebrushes of Wilson's Melaleuca makes a very showy back­ ground to the predominant fluffy Pink Calytrix. Just a couple of miles southwards from the Melville's Caves is the Rheola district. Here the highest export quality apples and pears are grown on filled-in gullies of old alluvial wash, luscious fruit growing on what was once the richest alluvial gold field of them all, Berlin Gully. In contrast to the deep lead fields further south, the deep quartz reefs of Bendigo and Castlemaine, this was a poor man's field . Little capital outlay was necessary to "Pan the wash" in the stony gullies - prospecting pan, cradle, tub and spade were about the only tools the digger required. Berlin Gully was part of the fabulous Rheola-Moliagul-Dunolly Field, where most of the big nuggets were found, in some cases only a few inches below the surface. In a short distance more than a ton of gold was panned from the rich gravel of the gully bottom, a real "Jeweller's Shop". At Rheola, the outcrop of the Matrix Reef yielded three chunks of gold with a total weight of 2,400 ounces. A total of nearly a hundred nuggets weighing over fifty ounces, with a dozen of these over five hundred ounces, was found. At nearby Kingower, twenty­ one nuggets were found weighing over fifty ounces. Less than a score of years ago the modern Wedderburn gold rush was started by the finding of the "Golden Retriever" (72 ounces) and the "Wedderburn Dog" (145 ounces). Wedderburn still retains its reputation of being in nugget country, even until the present day. 8 BUSH GAMESMANSHIP By Michael Griffin The late Stephen Potter invented the word "gamesmanship" and extended its application to many spheres of activity. He was a funny man but not, I think, a bushwalker, for in this hallowed pastime surely lies the quintessence of gamesmanship. For Potter, gamesmanship was the art of disconcerting one's opponent in order to win a game. A satisfactory definition, no doubt, when applied to the rather narrow field of sport, but one that requires a broader context than the dyadic relationships of competition if it is to be employed in the interpersonal situations encountered in "real life". Here one is not so much engaged in winning a particular game, as in carrying out a variety of tasks with a minimum of hardship to oneself. When the tasks form part of that conglomeration known as bushwalking, the aim of bushgamesmanship obviously is to avoid exertion while out walking in the bush. Instead of "disconcerting one's opponent", a more appropriate tactic is one that inveigles fellow walkers into doing all the work, and a pre-requisite to this demands a thorough knowledge of all time-saving and exertion­ avoiding ploys. This article attempts to outline some of the techniques used in bush­ gamesmanship (or B.G . as it is affectionately known). The number of ploys used is, in practice, limited only by the exponent's imagination, daring and need for friends. The most successful B.G. man will be the person who has no friends and does not desire any, for he will not be deterred by the escalation of hate directed at him. The more moderate (and human) exponent will probably deny that ultimate B.G. is possible, for he fears death. Thus, he is primarily concerned with avoiding precisely as much work as his fellow walkers will tolerate, and this involves balancing social niceties against basic intolerance. At this point, the first rule of B.G. can be stated: "When the innate intolerance of your comrades exceeds the counterforce of their acquired disposition to treat you as a human being, then the point of helpless frustration is reached, and your existence will be violently terminated". The moderate exponent of B.G. obviously knows this rule by heart. Let us now begin my treatise. The doctrines of B.G. centre upon two main areas of interest; along the track and at camp. Although there is some overlap in practice, for the purpose of this article they will be dealt with separately. It is well known of course that model treatises are written in the third person. This is done in an attempt to make the biases of the author sound scientifically plausible. Throwing caution to the winds, I have here decided to address you, dear reader, in a form best described as personal. There is a well-known law, which I have just invented, that predicts the success of a treatise by a consideration of the pronouns contained therein. It can be stated simply: "The success of a treatise is inversely proportional to the number of times the words 'you' and 'I' (taken together) appear". Before continuing, therefore, it is only fair to tell you that my thesis is a resounding failure. (A) A long the Track Most walkers carry a pack, whose ease of carriage increases as its weight decreases. B.G. here involves having everything you require together with a light pack. Obviously, someone else must share the load, and your preferred choice will be a person who is both new to the walk­ ing racket and incredibly naive. Prior to the trip you should praise his (or her) cooking and wager that he could turn out a delectable meal for two in the bush. If the right subject has been picked, you will be 9 invited to share his food on the walk. It is essential at this point to coerce him into carrying all the food and utensils, and this is best attempted by insisting that he needs practice in transporting large loads. Should your choice prove a trifle argumentative and unconvinced, it will be necessary to compromise - offer to carry the toilet paper and fruit saline. Occasionally it is not possible to manage such pre-trip planning. However, I am aware of an alternative ploy that has been known to work successfully. You will need a guitar and a sleeping bag, plus a reasonable singing voice and a passable guitar technique. The stratagem is simplicity itself- when the walk is well under way, quietly announce that you will sing in return for food and tent space. It is essential that this be done convincingly. Do not plead or threaten- simply state your proposition as though its acceptance were a foregone conclusion. B.G. pays particular attention to position in the party. Obviously, the optimum position will depend on a number of contradictory and inter­ locking factors, but I can tell you dogmatically that for large parties the best position is near the middle of the pack. For small parties (below ten) move towards the rear and for very large parties (above 40) move a little forward of centre. Such conclusions emerge from the following reasoning. First, the nearer you are to the front, the longer will be the rest you can get when a break is announced. This would suggest that the front position is best, but the leaders invariably travel faster than neces­ sary, so you must discard the first half dozen places as too tiring. Two factors point towards a rear position as optimal - snakes and scrub. It is often said that snakes see the first person in a party, aim at the second, strike at the third. However, it is possible that some snakes are muddleheaded. They may not decide to strike until four or five walkers have passed, or they may be asleep and awake somewhat confused. Con­ sideration of this factor indicates that a position considerably behind the leaders is required. Finally, all parties eventually encounter scrub. The stratagem here is unequivocal - the further back, the easier will be the walk. Note however that, for both snakes and scrub, there is little to be gained by having more than about fifteen people in front of you; snakes and scrub alike will have been well vanquished before you tackle them. Thus, greater weight should be given to the rest factor as the size of the party increases, and my conclusions allow for this consideration. All self-respecting B.G. men aim at an absolute minimum of exertion, which can be approximately equated with zero movement. They could stay home in bed, but the challenge, of course, is lacking. Consequently, many strategies have been developed for obtaining maximum resting time on walks. There is little point in enumerating all of these, when a moment's reflection will provide many to the agile mind and save me considerable exertion as well. Details of one or two will suffice here. Bushwalkers are often sympathetic and thus the ploy of feigning illness usually brings good results. It can be tentatively suggested that the length of rest obtained varies directly as the extent of pallor and the loudness of the moans, and inversely as the steadiness of gait. For the best results, you should cover your skin with chalk, make as much hospital noise as possible, and stagger uncontrollably across the track. If this fails, throw a convincing faint and don't move an eyelid for at least half an hour. When this stratagem wears thin (i.e., when your fellow walkers start kicking you as soon as you fall), develop bladder and bowel trouble. You will need to carry plenty of toilet paper to make a convincing show, and the development of severe stomach ache is recommended to 10 complement the other symptoms. An experienced B.G. man should be able to build each bowel crisis into a thirty minutes rest. Other extreme measures exist, but are not recommended until all else fails. Such manoeuvres as breaking your leg, being bitten by a snake, ripping your clothes to shreds, etc., are outside the accepted limits of the game, although a fake snakebite could be considered by especially callous practitioners of B.G. (You would need to leave the Club imme­ diately upon "recovery"). Before moving on, I should perhaps mention what is probably the most effective and the simplest stratagem ever devised. It was brought to my attention by a master of the art - one Douglas Pocock, to whom I can but bow down in awe. Please do not emote over its devastating simplicity, when I tell you that the only thing required is to look at flowers. Of course, you will need to learn, or invent, a few high-sounding botanical names (e.g., Opprobrium illegitimata, Scarycopulatum rup-

The Author in Action. Photo by Rex Filson. turis) and in addition you will find advantageous a camera, several pocket­ size botanical guides, and an expression of earnest intent. But looking is all, and Doug assures me that once you are accepted as a bonafide botanist, the entire party will come to a grinding standstill at your merest whim. And, should you mention the word "conservation", a thirty minute stop is inevitable. (B) Camping. The vital point with camping is to get into your tent and stay there, emerging only for meals and natural functions. The following chores are to be avoided: chopping wood, lighting and maintaining fires, burying rub­ bish, and fetching water. It is taken for granted that someone else has put up the tent and is cooking your tea. Upon retiring, tie your tent flaps securely. This is necessary in order that your morning sleeping act will go unchallenged. Stay inside the sleeping bag until you are certain that several fires have been lit, and wood and water provided. Then slowly "come to the surface", yawning and moaning liberally throughout. By now your porridge should have been cooked and a morning drink prepared. Dress leisurely and emerge tentatively into the morning. 11 After several successful uses of this technique, you will probably find that people are becoming suspicious, hostile and aloof. Technically, this is a situation known as "social ostracism". It is usually not fatal, but is painful, to all but the most hardened exponents of B.G. The time has obviously come for a new modus operandi. This second stage is known to the experts as "pseudo-reformed B.G." Here, the ostracised gamesman startles everyone by turning over a new leaf (figuratively speaking). The procedure is considered by most to be downright despicable. To begin, you rise early, preferably second or third. In the ensuing moments of incredulity, it will not be realised that your contribution to the chores is practically nil. Quietly go for a stroll and return in ten minutes with a small armful of firewood. You must place this care­ fully on the ground in sight of all and retire discreetly to a safe dis­ tance. Now search noisily for matches and fail to find them. Having attracted attention to your endeavours, you should go back to the tent and wake up your cook, informing him that you have lit the fire and gathered some wood. Suggest sportingly that he might like to cook breakfast. If this moment is handled properly, his charity will overflow and, seeing that you have reformed, he will embrace you as a long-lost brother. More importantly, he will cook breakfast. If a diabolical finish is required, it is only necessary to pull down the tent and escape with your sleeping bag to a distant retreat. Everyone will think that you are either packing or communing with nature. Your cook, in his euphoria, will doubtless overlook your departure and proceed to pack up everything for you. There is one final avenue of B.G. which requires exploration. This is the noble and oft-practised art of obtaining food from others. Here, I can claim with appropriate modesty to be something of an authority in the field. Again, there are many techniques, but I decline to give away my best-kept secrets to all and sundry. However, generosity allows me to divulge the following information: The essence of good food-snatching is a disarming smile and some quick-thinking. You will need a ready supply of opening gambits, each suited to a particular situation. The most-used ploy applies when the food concerned (usually chocolate) is actually being eaten at the time. Remember that, for chocolate, a block in the hand is worth at least three in the pack. The exchange should be along these lines - You: That's an interesting block of chocolate. What brand is it? Eater: (Mentions a common brand). You: Funny, it looks like some of that Swiss grape chocolate. Eater: What? You: (Detailed explanation of a non-existent brand). Which re­ minds me that it is ages since I had some of that type of chocolate you have. Eater: What, dairy milk? You: Yes, I usually eat dark chocolate. Couldn't get any for this weekend either, what with the shops being shut out our way. Local strike or something. Strange how a warm day makes me hanker for a bit of dairy milk. (Big smile). Eater: Mm. You: (Suddenly) Is it nice? Eater: (Giving up). Here, for heaven's sake have some. You: Oh, I didn't mean to imply . .. still, now that you've offered, thank you. (Walk off after suitable interval and try to obtain some cashew nuts. B.G. men have no pride). 12 PLANT -LIFE IN THE GRAMPIAN$ By J. H. Willis'''

Trekking across "Australia Felix" in the winter of 1836, Major T. L. Mitchell ascended Mount Bolangum (about sixteen miles south-west of St. Arnaud) on July 11th. Here is the journal description of what he saw on this memorable occasion: "From a high forest-hill about a mile east of our route, I first obtained a complete view of a noble range of mountains rising in the south to a stupendous height, and presenting as bold and picturesque an outline as e1•er painter imagined. The highest and most eastern summit was hid in the clouds, although the evening was serene."

Grampians Gum (Eucalyptus Alpina). Block courtesy F.N.C.V. Four days later Mitchell found himself on top of that "highest and most eastern summit" which he later called Mount William after the reigning monarch and, with true Scottish patriotism, he bestowed the name Grampians upon the newly discovered "noble range" itself. The 2,500-foot climb up those precipitous eastern declivities of Mount Wil­ liam proved most exhausting, and Mitchell's party was forced to sit out a long, cheerless winter night among subalpine shrubberies thick with icicles. It is much to the credit of his dutiful plant collector, John Richard­ son, that a substantial number of specimens was gathered here, despite the trying circumstances; and at Melbourne Herbarium some of these actual collectings bear the whimsical tag "Mt. Blew" in Richardson's

*National Herbarium of Victoria. 13 hand - because the wind "blew keenly" on that exposed summit at 3,800 ft. Most of the shrubs encountered there were quite new to science, and it is not surprising that Professor John Lindley who later described these novelties in London, drawing freely from Mitchell's habitat notes, was persuaded to use such botanical epithets as alpina, alpestris and glacialis. By mid-September 1836 the expedition had walked practically all around the Grampians, climbing and christening Mounts Zero, Ara­ piles, Sturgeon and Abrupt. It was noted that each of the four parallel ranges trended north and south, with sheer spectacular bluffs on their eastern faces but more gentle slopes to the west. One may regret that the Major and his men missed seeing this region in the full flush of its springtime glory; but theirs was the first window to open on a floral wonderland without rival anywhere else in Victoria. Many other notable investigators have combed the Gram­ pians during the past 134 years, each adding to our knowledge of the flora, so that today we have records of about 1,000 different kinds of native flowers and ferns (more than one-third of the State's entire flora) within these magnificent sandstone ranges. Dr. (later Baron von) Mueller made very important collections in November, 1853, visiting many of the higher peaks and including those on the boldly serrated Victoria Range. C. Wilhelmi, his deputy, was also here from December 1856 to January 1857. D. Sullivan, a teacher resident at Moyston, contributed much material from the Mount William area in the 1870's, explored other ranges and compiled the first floristic breviary, "Native Plants of the Grampians and their Vicinity", which was published in ten parts (1882/83). St. Eloy D'Aiton, a Shire Engineer at Dimboola (and later Nhill), took a particular interest in the flora of the northern Grampians and augmented the growing number of specimens at Melbourne Herbarium between 1880 and 1910. Also, early this century, Kate Cowell (who later married Gustav Weindorfer, the "Hermit of Cradle Mountain") made collections around Hall's Gap and at "Goat Rock" (i.e., Mount Rosea). Another lady to collect in the Hall's Gap area, in December, 1912, was visiting American algologist, Dr. Josephine Tilden. School teacher H. B. Williamson gathered Grampians plants at various times from 1893 to 1927. But of special significance are the journeys and collections of the late J. W. Audas, a senior botanist in our National Herbarium, whose particular affection for the Grampians took him thither on many occasions between 1912 and 1928. His book, One of Nature's Wonderlands, is a chatty, largely botanical travelogue about his various visits and impressions, by foot and on horseback. He was followed by school teacher A. J. Swaby who has kept lists of all the plant species noted in the Grampians over a period of years. For a thorough modern approach to the mapping of plant occurrences (both native and alien) throughout the Grampians, credit is due to A. C. Beauglehole of Port­ land, who, from 1955 to 1970, has carried out intensive surveys on a grid system. In view of his most careful, systematic work, it is now un­ likely that many future additions will be made to the known flora of this region, covering some 450 square miles. During the past decade Ian McCann, of Stawell, has assembled a remarkable gallery of colour transparencies, featuring hundreds of plant species that he has photo­ graphed in the Grampians. So much for the army of elucidators, but what of the flora itself? Much of the present interest and diversity of Grampians plant-life stems from its geological history. Until about five million years ago (in the Lower Pliocene period), this lofty sandstone complex had been an impres­ sive promontory, commanding for millions of years the south-east limit of a vast Murray-Darling gulf. Its long, partial isolation by sea from the 14 Springtime in the Grampians. Photo Ministry of Tourism.

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16 rest of the Australian land-mass probably accounts for the evolution of a score of plants that are endemic, i.e., completely restricted to the Grampians- three kinds of grevillea; four bush-peas (including the handsome subalpine Rosy Bush-pea); two trymaliums; two orchids; a boronia, bauera, parrot-pea, star-bush, trigger-plant, thryptomene, fringe­ myrtle and the little Grampians Gum. Another intriguing facet of the vegetation concerns the occurrence of elements from far distant places. For instance, Coast Banksia grows on Major Mitchell Plateau, Mount Rosea and the Victoria Range, but occurs nowhere else between the Grampians and Port Phillip Bay, whence it extends eastward along the Gippsland coast. Other species, e.g., Skele­ ton Fork-fern and Hare's-foot Fern, range otherwise only from far East Gippsland through the eastern sandstone areas of New South Wales into the sub-tropics, while a most remarkable disjunction is shown by the little pea, Swainsona hrachycarpa, which jumps from the Grampians to north-eastern New South Wales. A few Tasmanian species (notably the large-flowered Shining Tea-tree) occur on the Grampians but no­ where else in Victoria. The most interesting link of all is provided by some plants with undoubted Western Australian affinities, e.g. Thryp­ tomene and Tinsel-lily. Pincushion Lily, Borya nitida, is abundant on granitic pavements in south-western Australia, but in the eastern States it exists solely on one escarpment near Hall's Gap! Did the ancestors of these now-stranded, relict occurrences once range widely across the continent? Certainly it seems that some species have been present con­ tinuously in the Grampians from very remote aeons of time- from the Middle or even Early Tertiary. Tall mountain forests, fern gullies, savannah woodland, extensive wet and dry heaths all contribute an amazing variety of species. Rock faces and mossy ledges also have their distinctive crevice-plants, needing little in the way of soil. Sandy tracts of heathland produce the gayest floral displays to be seen in the Grampians: a wealth of orchids (at least 80 species) and lilies (30 kinds or more), golden guinea-flowers and buttercups, many wattles, colourful heaths, quaint grevilleas and other proteads, innumerable pea-flowered shrubs of the "eggs-and-bacon" type, boronias, correas, rice-flowers, cricoid myrtles, mint-bushes and daisies of every conceivable sort, to mention some conspicuous groups. It is almost a case of "you name it, the Grampians will have it"! In fact, the bushwalker cannot escape from attractive flowers, no matter where he decides to go. Had the Mount William Range been only 1,000-2,000 ft. higher, a truly alpine vegetation would undoubtedly have developed thereon. Even now, at 3,800 ft ., the stately Silver Daisy (with heads as big as garden marguerites) , Mountain Pepper and a few highland grasses give an adumbration of the alps. Heavy regrowth of Oyster Bay Pines has followed bushfires along the drier slopes and ridges, and these little spire-like trees are most attractive among their less distinctive eucalypt associates. Around Mount Zero and in the Victoria Valley the Southern Grass-tree blooms heavily after a fire, its immense kangaroo-tail-like inflorescences pointing skywards for 10-12 feet. No less than 15 kinds of eucalypts (20, if we include Mount Arapiles) are present in various parts of the ranges, from tall forestal Messmate and Mountain Grey Gum to the endemic Grampians Gum, Eucalyptus alpina. The last is a small bushy tree with exceptionally thick leathery leaves and large stalkless capsules; it is closely related to Brown Stringybark, and has proved quite useful for low windbreaks in coastal districts. Among humbler plants, the mosses are conspicuous in fern gullies, on sheltered canyon walls and dripping rock ledges where their green mats 17 and cushions offer a foothold for sundews, heath seedlings, the delicate purple Fairies' Aprons and Bristly Trigger-plants. Fungi are also numerous and colourful in the late autumn; but, of all flowerless plants, the most exciting and delicate must surely be Coral Lichen which forms creamy­ white, lacy cushions often as large as footballs. The writer's introduction to the Grampians was a walk from Dunkeld to Hall's Gap and Stawell through the higher ranges in September 1929. It rained for days on end, and the acute discomfort of struggling through acres of dense wet Spike Wattle (very aptly named) , to view the Bovine Falls, is vividly remembered. But the delights of the environment more than compensated: grey thrushes calling clear and melodiously through morning mist, cascading water among bowers of ferns, weird rock shapes in "Wonderland", that fantastic natural stairway ascending beau­ tiful Mount Rosea, and everywhere the brilliance of enchanting flowers viewed for the first time. His last visit was to Castle Rock on the Victoria Range in December 1966. This turreted and tessellated sand­ stone massif is cleft by a narrow deep ravine, providing a micro-climate in which flourish tree-ferns, filmy-ferns, numerous mosses and other tender shade lovers. On another part of Castle Rock are impressive tassels of the rare and very localized Long Clubmoss. So outstanding are the floral attractions of the Grampians, that a special section was devoted to this area in the pictorial Flowers and Plants of Victoria published by A. H. & A. W. Reed in 1968. Eight of the endemic Grampians species are portrayed in full colour, together with 38 other species of the region, e.g., Tinsel-lily, Hairy Correa and the exquisite Orange Bell-climber. It surely behoves every lover of our bush­ lands to see that the Grampians, with so many unique features, is kept intact and unspoiled for all time to come.

JOHN DONNE & SON CHART HOUSE 372 LITTLE BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE

for MAPS, COMPASSES AND BOOKS For the Walker

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18 CAMERA VARIA By Ivor Davies From the Dream Time on, the possibilities of the recorded image have intrigued Mankind, including Proper Australians, as a visit to Ayers Rock, among many places, will testify. Such "grafitti", however, did perhaps have slightly more ritualistic overtones than the images in today's mass media. These days the "walkabout man" is not so ready to include pigments, brushes and palette among his bushwalking gear, notwithstanding the fact that in the eyes of some purists this is still considered the best if not the only way to record Nature. But our Cameraphile of pioneering days was no better off; worse if anything. One rather amusing sketch which came to the writer's atten­ tion recently depicted an early bush photographer (c. 1854) on his way to record the doings and diggings around Bendigo and Ballarat. Envis­ age one sizeable Prairie Schooner attached to sturdy horse, and - such a cargo!

One large tent (processing, for use in), one camera obscura plus various tables, various non-folding type tripods, innumerable Winchesters and other bottles, a great stock of Whale-plates, sponges, black cloths and an item resembling a Brickie's Hod (for magnesium powder), and last but certainly not least a large bellows-looking object with a Ghee-tin size lens and cap, the latter hanging from the lens by a length of best Great Exhibition Empire style W.C. chain. Just what all this gear weighed was anybody's guess, but the sig­ nificant fact is that those wetplate prints of yore can seldom be bettered in this Space Age. But in those days people possessed the ability to sit or stand stock still for up to twenty minutes. In 1971 we have to be content with marvellous top-pocket-sized instruments which all but load themselves, compute aperture, speed, distance, take snapshots by the light of the candles on the cake, and even ignite a flashbulb should an unscheduled eclipse of the sun arrive. But that is not all: you are invited to wait only sixty seconds, open the camera and tear off a fixed and finished photo there and then. Alas, 19 it is already obvious that Photophiles of this day and age can no longer bear the agonising suspense of a sixty seconds wait; a good black and white print will now emerge from the mill in just ten seconds flat! There are signs that this is still not good enough. Predictions are now being made that in the next decade or two we may see the truly "Insta­ matic Camera" complete with the "Instant Photo". By all accounts those Back Room Boys are now doing weird things with magnetic images on mini tape recorders, xerography, lasers, and, with holography just around the corner, perhaps even the "solid" print. All of which brings us to the point and purpose of this preamble. People from time to time ask the present writer, "Which is the best camera for bush or beach?'' Also, "What is the best way to treat one's camera under those conditions?" Unfortunately there is no "best camera" for the bush. As for the beach, one may sound facetious in suggesting a hermetically sealed model: otherwise, the cheapest and simplest unit. In the meantime let us take a look at Nature's most common threats to the modern camera. Firstly, and most frequently, dust; especially dust moving at high velocity before a north wind. Leaf-type shutters are often constructed with slotted openings where various controls project, and little grains­ sometimes little insects - find easy tracks into the timer gear trains, dia­ phragm components and more importantly the shutter leaves themselves. Secondly, extremes of temperature - and this applies also to single lens reflex cameras with or without focal plane shutters, indeed to any type of camera, good or indifferent. Focusing-screw threads too fre­ quently contain large quantities of heavy grease. Just why the makers do this heaven alone knows' A motor-car differential is one thing, but a camera focusing barrel quite another. Speaking as 'The Camera Serviceman Who Tells", the author's experience is that not too infrequently a camera is left out in the sun, or, more drastically, on the rear seat of a locked car in which January and February temperatures can reach 140° F. As the camera is often upon its back the grease up front softens and "bingo", in a brace of camera clicks you have a nicely gooed-up set of shutter leaves, not to mention fully automatic diaphragm segments which are usually actuated by deli­ cate springs. It is a beautiful sight to watch a shutter g-r-a-d-u-a-1-1-y open and close, if it has not already locked up in a mixture of grit and grease. So what is the answer, Folks! Put the lot into a sizeable, strong plastic bag, twist its neck and secure, folded, with a rubber band. This way you can leave it in the back of one of Gronow's open-backed vans on the dustiest of dirt roads; but be sure to use a fresh wrap next time! As for the vaccillations of our nearest star, we have not- unlike the Moon-men- got around to the refrigerated ruck-sack as yet, but it is probably not far around the corner. Nevertheless, on those two or three really hot days with which this State is blessed, the best advice is to keep the camera in the coolest place possible, perhaps well wrapped up in the heart of the pack, "mad dogs and Englishmen" notwithstanding. Never point your camera at the sun (excepting sunsets)- remem­ ber the Men on the Moon with the new T.V. show which didn't! Modern built-in exposure meters are pretty rugged and will take quite a "tows­ ing" but there are other factors to consider. If you use a focal plane shutter of the rubberized fabric kind, remember that small burn holes are known to occur; also permanent blemishes may occur on surface­ coated reflex mirrors, even though the lens may not be set at some specific focal point. Keep the lens cap on at all times except the obvious. If (as in one 20 extra special MINOLTA package deal ONLY AT WAGNERS!

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22 case known to the writer) you have a twin lens reflex camera and are in the habit of exposing film with the lens cap still in place, then cut out a strip of plastic from an old detergent bottle and cement it on to your lens cap so that one end obscures the viewing window. No Catechism on Camera Care would be complete without some reference to snow and water hazards. If you are a canoeist or even a "wet weather bushie", here's where the good old plastic bag comes in again. A properly used plastic bag can keep a camera dry, even after total immersion, for sufficient time for rescue operations to take place. But it must be a new bag- they are inexpensive enough! In one case on record a girl fell out of a boat which was towing a skier. When she clambered back on board, her camera, which had remained in her pocket, showed no evidence of interior moisture. It had been wrapped -quite loosely in this case- in a sheet of "Poly­ wrap" film from her sandwiches! But it is always as well to use a stout bag well folded, or, better still, with the neck tied in a good knot. First Aid Sometimes you can be lucky and sometimes you simply cannot win. As much depends on the type of camera you own, it is not possible to lay down any hard and fast rule on first aid. The simpler the camera or meter then the better are your chances of redemption, if one may use such a term. Should you be unfortunate enough to give yours a bath hold it on end with hinge uppermost and open the back. The film has probably had it anyway, but should for some miraculous reason the film and rear compartment appear quite dry, don't panic, but first close the back. Then with the back still uppermost rewind and remove the film . You may be able to redeem the shots already exposed. Otherwise, with film removed, allow all water to drain from the compartment, and also from any openings around the lens mount and shutter. Then turn the camera upside down and repeat. Stand it in a warm place (if in the bush, away from wind and dust) and turn from time to time. Incidentally, if your film is obviously soaked do not on any account return it for processing. There is a real possibility of hazarding other people's film or damaging equipment. If you have worked in an auto­ matic processing lab. you will appreciate this point. Should you wish to have a go at processing it yourself that is quite another matter. But is it worth it? The camera is the thing. Of course, the far better thing to do, where possible, is to place the camera after draining on or in a warm oven, with the temperature set to not more than 90°F (32°C for New Chums). Leave until quite dry then take it to your nearest Photo-Technologist or a good Camera Mechanic, not the chemist shop otherwise it may wait for days for attention. Tell the whole sorry story. If the camera has been dropped into a creek or fresh water (even though polluted) you are indeed lucky. But for the sea and surf fraternity it is a sadder tale. Aluminium alloys and sodium have a great affinity and the only possible thing you can do is to drain the camera immediately and then flush out with clean tepid water several times. Remove any batteries or cells as well as the film . As already mentioned, simple meter­ less cameras can survive if well dried, dismantled and relubricated. With cloth type shutters and also electronic time bases etcetera, water, espe­ cially from the sea, can write finis. It would be relevant therefore to consider ways and means of lessening such a likelihood. Primarily, keep your neck strap where it should be- around your neck. It is a good idea to have it as short as convenient, especially in boats or over water. Even bushwalking and rock climbing can give a few nasty knocks to a dangler. 23 Secondly, the hold. Now it may appear elementary to some, but you'd be surprised how few people do hold a camera correctly. Wat_ch your Professional at a modelling, or a Pressman at some event. Wtth heavier jobs you will see a thumb and finger around the lens barrel. This leaves the right hand free to operate wind-on and other controls. It also has the advantage of keeping fingers away from lenses, range­ finder and viewer windows. There is little excuse for dropping a camera anyway, yet the writer recently had to repair a new Minolta S.R.T. 101 which was dropped on the floor while being removed from its carton! There is no ideal camera, photowise or otherwise. Remember that "the more complex, the more vulnerable". The five or six "Rolls Royce" class cameras on the market have greater built-in reliability but are as susceptible to damage as the pinhole shoebox. Camera care is the key­ word, not high initial cost. All the foregoing applies of course to exposure meters, cine cameras and projectors, in fact to any precision photographic equipment. A Few Do's and Don'ts Do check crevices in camera and ever-ready case for grains of sand, etc. You'd be surprised. Do load the camera before leaving home and always in subdued light. See that you have enough shots to last until evening, when you can reload in your tent. "A film in the camera is worth two in the pack". Do clean and check your camera after a big trip, ready for the next. Run a dummy film through to see that all is well. Do avoid, wherever possible, extremes of temperature. To take a camera straight from a frost-covered pack into warm sun is surely to invite condensation, both in and outside the optics. (How do they man­ age at Casey or for that matter up at Kosciusko in the winter?). Mois­ ture can hang around the insides of a camera for hours on end. Don't point your camera at the sun. Don't try to clean the surface-coated mirror on a reflex camera. It can't be done. Don't try to clean lenses unless absolutely essential, then use a soft, well-washed hankie, never tissues. Some tissues are abrasive in nature and may damage the delicate anti-reflection coatings on the lenses, al­ though external surface coatings or "blooming" as we used to call them in the old days, are fairly hard these days. Nevertheless there are always micro-millimeter-sized particles in the air and on lenses so never "scrub" the surface. Don't get a fetish about cleaning optics. Occasional flecks of dust will have no significant effect upon the final image, but big greasy finger smudges certainly will, so keep a U.V. filter screwed over all your taking lenses. You can give that the occasional wipe with impunity (and a clean hankie). Don't take pictures in the teeth of Northerlies, Southerlies, seaspray and surf. Leave that to the Ad-Makers. Don't try to save on weight with mini half-frame cameras unless you are quite happy to pay extra mounting charges or (if you are a Black and White fan) accept poorer definition in your enlargements. Also you may find it necessary to buy a more powerful projector or zoom lens for your slide-shows, or even a new house with a very long lounge! Incidentally, there are now on the market several good mini cameras with standard 35mm. format and just as compact as their half-frame cousins. Don't store your camera in the outside pockets or the bottom of your pack. When in inclement weather or not "at the ready", wrap it in 24 some soft item (not your sleeping bag) and place it in the centre of your pack. Finally, please don't regard the foregoing treatise as a guide to "taking good pictures". You will find plenty of that advice in photo journals from Sydney to Seattle, or you may well join a Camera Club. But the advice offered above on Camera Care is not so easily come by. Such "Packardisms" as "planned obsolescence" do not apply to today's cameras. The industry is far too competitive and international for that. It has two reputations to safeguard: its own and the customer's, but the camera, though complex and reliable, is not designed primarily with "Bushies" in mind. Even those well-known Swedish cameras had to be modified for the Astronauts. Should the perfect all-round camera ever arrive on the scene, then the poor Camera Serviceman will have to seek a fresh vocation. In the meantime, "Happy Shutterbugging".

THE CHERRY- TREE RANGE "April is a mask hiding May; May, winter." From farm, forest and river fiats hills stretch uprising, buckle high in bayonet lines of pointed cones ripping out the lining of the blue-grey great-coats of the sky. Tor-honed the winds whistle their four-bladed keenness cut at granite sheep pasturing motionless under the glare of tilted all-weather suns. And the hills sail hugely in great upthrusts of green turf, their tree flanks flapping when the whole range is cloud-tugged into its land of stone legend. One remembered; a cold breath of rain, flashing, a fleet glimpse in stone of a blind giant groping with crook, and crouched searching for his fabled flock. Quietly we escaped the shepherd down a spill of golden guineas, the flowers of the lost pads, creeklets in the hillside tumult, a view of farmhouse rooftops. The stumbled crashing above grew fainter; soon the Goulburn flowed lead among familiar cattle flats, but in paddocks left to bracken rose the pedestalled monoliths. Athol Schafer. 25 MOUNT ECCLES NATIONAL PARK

By Graham Errey

Mount Eccles National Park is situated in Western Victoria between the towns of Port Fairy and Hamilton. In ancient times Mount Eccles, Mount Gambier, Tower Hill and other mountains in the region were active volcanoes, the eruptions of which formed the large Western District lava plain. It is the impressive crater and crater lake found on the summit of Mount Eccles which is the unique feature of the park.

Although Mount Eccles only ri ses 588 feet above sea level it is sufficiently high to have been noted by Matthew Flinders as he passed south of Lady Julia Percy Island in the "Investigator" on 20th May 1802. In 1836 Major Mitchell and his party, equipped with drays and horses, journeyed south from the Murray River towards the Grampians. After exploring and naming these mountains the party continued on to the Glenelg River which they followed to the sea. They then headed east towards Discovery Bay and on to Portland where they were surprised to find a well -established settlement, the Henty brothers having sailed in twenty-one months earlier.

Two days afterwards, on 1st September, Major Mitchell discovered and named the crater Mount Eales, in honour of a lieutenant with whom he had served in the Peninsular War. Later, in 1855, due to an error on the Surveyor General's map, the name was changed to Mount Eccles.

The first owners of the mount and lake were Messrs. Hunter, Hoskin and Davidson, who took up the "Eumerella West" pastoral licence in October 1842. The early settlers recorded that the aboriginal inhabitants "resisted us causing considerable trouble."

The Victorian Government was requested by the Minhamite Shire Council to reserve Mount Eccles as a public park, and this duly done on 23rd November 1926. It was raised to the status of a National Park following an Act of Parliament on 7th June 1960, and its size enlarged from its original 84 acres to 974 acres in 1968.

Nestling in the crater on the summit of Mount Eccles is the aptly named Lake Surprise. The green waters of this delightful lake are the home of introduced trout, which, however, are unable to breed because of the lack of running water. Nevertheless the level of the lake varies throughout the year, due apparently to the seeping in of water from the surrounding country. There are two tracks in the region of the summit, either of which can be followed with advantage. One, the lower track, follows around the Jake itself, while the other, the upper track, encircles the crater edge.

26 Lake Surpris~. Photo J. R. Garnet; Block courtesy F .N .C .V.

The vegetation in and around the crater is interesting and varied. Tea tree and rushes thrive at the water's edge, while higher up Black­ woods and occasional she-oaks are seen between the white trunked Manna Gums. Bursaria, bush-peas and grass-trees are also plentiful. At the northern end of the lake, looking just like a dry creek bed, is an old lava canal. When the lava in the crater subsided, some of the river of molten rock flowed back into the crater, leaving the canal which is still visible today. Just near here, quite unlike the familiar limestone caves, is a lava cave, the origin of which is uncertain. A torch is required to inspect the interior of the cave as little light is reflected from the dark basalt walls. On these walls grow the delicate Veined-Bristle-fern.

Mount Eccles National Park is an interesting and attractive place. Whether intending to spend a few hours or several days there are few who will not find a visit worthwhile.

27 More than a quarter of Victoria is Forest ... YOURS to ENJOY

' Forests Commission Victoria ... Managing your forests!

28 THE MOUNT ARAPILES AREA By Athol Schafer

Mount Arapiles and adjacent Mitre Rock, are isolated peaks rising little more than six hundred feet above the surrounding plains. The former presents an impressive cliff face set high on a sloping pediment of rock waste. Such a view is presented in Arthur Boyd's painting '" Irrigation Lake, Wimmera", hanging in the Melbourne Arts Centre. In the near foreground, crows and cockatoos are pictured settling on drowned dead timber in the waterhole. From there a brown expanse of grassland stretches out through belts of trees to where the mountain raises its blade-like profile against the sky. Mount Arapiles appears not much more than a small bump on the horizon. thirty miles to the north-west of the northern peaks of the Grampians, which are the closest ranges. In the past this distance in­ sulated it from much of the earth movement that gave the Grampian strata their characteristic tilt. The strata at Mount Arapiles has a very gentle slope. The great rocks of Mount Arapiles were deposited about the middle of the Paleozoic era (350 million years ago). Of the same type and formation as those of the Grampian Ranges, it is believed that the material for the deposits came from a mountainous area that once existed further to the west. At a later stage, according to the theory of continental drift, south­ eastern Australia traversed the antarctic region for over two hundred million years. The time must have been one of tremendous erosion. Less resistant deposits were removed thus leaving the hard rocks of Mount Arapiles above the plains. In contrast with the last million years with its glacial, inter-glacial and mountain-building phases, the bulk of the sixty million years of the Tertiary era consisted of long settled periods of steady erosion and deposition into the shallow seas in a world of low topographic relief. Halfway through the Tertiary era, the sea invaded the plains of the Murray valley. This sea was known as the Murray Gulf, and probably lasted for millions of years up to almost the present day. As the sea encroached, the western arms of the Grampian Ranges became headlands and promontories at the mouth of the Gulf. What appears to be wave­ cut platforms have been found on Mount Arapiles, suggesting that this mountain was an island with its crags as rock stacks. In the neighbouring Little Desert sand dune belts represent successive coastlines left by the retreating sea. Today the agents of erosion are still active, tearing away at the mountain; jets of windborne sand continually sculpt the rock face. As the new surfaces are exposed, rain water washes the gravel and rock fragments down the gullies. The sand is blown in from the nearby deserts, particularly from where the land has been cleared. Major Mitchell was the first European to climb the mountain. In 1836 he crossed the grassy plains of "Australia Felix", the title he gave to these plains in west-central Victoria. On reaching the Grampians he first climbed Mount William then skirted the range northwards, before crossing the plains to Mount Arapiles. This he named after a pair of "commanding heights"' that featured in the Battle of Salamanca in 1812, during the Napoleonic Wars. 29 The Grampian Ranges are famous for their floral attractions but have not yet been raised to the status of a national park. Mount Ara­ piles has been declared a Wild Flower Reserve in order to protect the many native plants common to both areas. These include several eucalypt species, she-oaks, native pines, wattles, grevilleas and heaths. The Ara· piles plateau and surrounding belt of open forest shelters various native animals such as kangaroos, wallabies, possums, gliders and bush rats. During the warm summer months the mountain rocks are invaded by small creatures such as stumpy-tailed blue-tongued lizards and bearded dragons. There is also a wide range of bird life including wedgetailed eagles, galahs, crimson rosellas and magpies. In 1963 Mount Arapiles was again discovered-by rock climbers. Almost overnight the mountain became a popular climbing area. Besides the prospect of pioneering new routes, there was the convenience of being able to drive almost to the base of the climbing faces. Isolation from familiar mountain chains may account for the cliff not having been climbed previously. When the Melbourne Bushwalkers visited Mount Arapiles on the June Long-Weekend in 1968, they found the climbing season in full swing, the cliffs being scaled day and night. At least a hundred climbers and walkers were camped around the picnic reserve. On their first walk in the area, the Bushwalkers ascended the track up the main gully. Some members thought the orange coloured sand­ stone cliffs compared favourably with some of the famous Central Aus­ tralian formations. The summit, a pile of squarish boulders, offered distant views of the Grampians and Pyrenees Ranges. Looking westward,

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30 Mount Arapil••· the keen-eyed averred they could see into South Australia fifty miles dis­ tant, beyond a dark area of Mallee scrub. The party then followed the rim of the plateau to the western slopes, out across a golf course and rounded the southern end of the cliffs, thus encircling the mountain in a day's walking. The next day's walk was also anti-clockwise around the base of the mountain, stopping to v1s1t Mitre Rock. At close quarters it lost its conical hat shape, resolving into two rock-stacks, separated by a damp gully sheltering a number of native shrubs of which some were in flower. After scrambling to the top, the paddocks below looked like an immense billiard table, covered in an emerald-green of new growth. Leaving Mitre Rock the party crossed to the north-west corner of Arapiles. A maze of tracks in a swampy eucalypt forest, a stony-sided valley overgrown thickly with heath, pine scrub, and some steep climbing were some of the difficulties encountered. A number of lakes were visible from the top; Major Mitchell recorded twenty-seven. Of these lakes which range up to two square miles in area, some are salt and many are only intermittently filled. The majority can be described as "playas", which are shallow depressions filled by water prevented from seeping away by an impervious bed of fine mud. They are confined mainly to a belt of lowland just west of Mount Arapiles. Viewed from the height of the mountain the lay-out of the lakes gives one the impression that a widely meandering waterway once existed here, the playas marking the sites of lagoons and ox-bow bends. It seems possible that this was an abandoned river course that formed a link between the Wimmera and Glenelg Rivers. It was decided to have a closer look at the "abandoned river course" and a group headed across the few intervening miles of grazing land. On reaching the playas they were found to be shallow, about nine inches at their deepest, surrounded by a beach of mud whose glace surface transformed walking into skating. We departed from the lakes with memories of Mount Arapiles repos­ ing sphinx-like on the plains, its face catching the winter sun, and being reflected on the peaceful surface of the waters. 31 LOCH WILSON & co. P.O. BOX 175, CAULFIELD SOUTH, VIC., 3162

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32 TASMANIA'S WILDERNESS By Jon Cairns

The time was 2.30 p.m. Tasmanian summertime. Our taxis halted at the barrier on the A.P.P.M . road one mile east of Guildford Junction, a sleepy hamlet situated on the Emu Bay Railway, which runs from Burnie to Rosebery in Tasmania's north-west. Thirteen eager bushies emerged with heavily laden packs, but in high spirits and with a minimum of delay set off down the road beyond the harrier, through the tall forest trees towards the distant peaks that were to become our home for the next fortnight. Our spirits glowed with the fervour of the hrilliant sun­ shine that cast its rays across the cloudless azure skies, and speckled the forest floor with its dancing rays. Earlier this morning we had forsaken our homes amid the throes of Christmas hangovers, and had sped to this place, to he amidst the heauty of Tasmania's wilderness. Our sixteen day trek would take us through the forests and vales of the little known country to the north-west of Wald­ heim; through the renowned Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park, a veritable labyrinth of peaks, tarns and forests, and the source of several of Tasmania's mighty rivers; and across the wild and barren Jake strewn wastes of the plateau country, from the headwaters of the Mersey River to the Great Western Tiers. But, a prophet appeared to me in a vision one night; and said, " Lo, many have gone before thee to prepare this place for thee; with their boots have they churned up the mudde for thee, until it is now but yawning viscous bogges. Beware ye of the button grasse, the hori­ zontal scrubhe, tempestuous storms, icy winds and snowe. Beware ye of all creatures that fly, crawl, bite and stinge; of the mozzies, leeches, possumes and dreaded tiger catte there will be no end. And when these things come to pass, you will know that your hour is at hand. And there will be weeping and gnashing of teethe". Our party was under the leadership of the esteemed Felix, who with twelve other assorted characters made up our little band. Those worthy of particular note were Alma, our leading lady and button grass hater, other­ wise known as the "Belle of the hutton grass"; Warren our enthusiastic hut unsuccessful trout fisherman; Michael G., our hush philosopher and conservation authority; and Norman, our tail-end Charlie, one who had a remarkahle affinity with Tasmanian possums. Much to our disgust, the walk commenced with about eight miles of road bashing to the start of an old mining track, which would eventually lead us to the Mayday Plains, about twenty miles away. We soon found that the road had been inundated as the result of a dam recently con­ structed in the area, and some time was spent in detouring. From the road St. Valentine's Peak rose singularly above the treetops, a beautiful but lonely mountain. Having eventually located the required track, we then had to ford a swiftly flowing, icy cold river, bare footed and pack laden, stepping gingerly from one submerged rock to another, while the torrent threatened to sweep us to oblivion. This treatment is not recom­ mended as cure for sore feet resulting from eight mile route marches. Thanks to our illustrious leader, who did not know that bridges were in short supply here. On the second day, after leaving an old stockman's hut on the edge of the forest, we walked along the well marked vehicle track through the scrub and tall eucalypt forest for about two and a half hours, until we came to a broad area swept clean by timber-getters, laced with crude 33 access roads, and littered with discarded tree trunks and tangled scrub. Rough tracks now appeared in all directions, confusing us so that the original track was lost. Continuing in the general direction of Mayday a barrier of scrub now reared upwards, barring the way. So avoiding the gullies where it was thickest, we bashed along the contours for two hours until eventually we broke free and emerged with relief onto the May­ day Plains. Now it was a short pleasant walk across the snow grass plains to our campsite amid sheltered beech forest on the banks of May­ day Creek. Looking south, the plains descended into the deep and for­ bidding gullies that rose above the Mackintosh River. Far in the distance, Mount Murchison rode the horizon, like a ship in a sea of blue hills, silent and majestic. At dusk the sun's lateral rays shone on the gaunt peaks, and the rock responded with an orange glow. Evening mists ascended from the valleys, and hung below the mountains like a trans­ parent veil. And there was peace in our camp that night. The weather continued to excel itself the next day, when we walked the remaining twelve miles to the chalet at Waldheim. Having reached the Mayday Saddle after an exhausting climb through extremely thick bauera scrub and burnt out button grass, we descended into the Vale of Bel­ voir, then crossed the rolling button grass hills to Pencil Pine Creek and the road to Waldheim. Three miles of hot dusty road bashing brought us eventually to the edge of the Cradle Valley and to Wein­ dorfer's Chalet set back in the dark pine forest. Cradle Mountain rose before us like a vision, its gnarled towers pointing skywards and Lake Dove glistened like cut crystal before our eyes. After securing a six bunk hut for the night, thirteen weary dusty walkers flung their packs down, showered and prepared tea in earnest. But at dusk, the wind blew with gusto, heralding dark frothy clouds, which veiled the mountains and spoiled the sunset. We surmised that an early start would be essential tomorrow if we were to climb Cradle Mountain at all. Then, as silent as the darkness that moved over the face of the earth, and with the speed of summer lightning, the possums struck, systematically raiding the trash cans outside, and then forcing entry into the huts. Norman, who considered sleeping with twelve others in a six bunk hut to be unhygienic, bedded down on the porch, thus presenting a formidable barrier to the marauders, as armed with a stout broom and a can of Mortein, he wrought havoc among them. "Get out, you mangy creatures", Norman would bellow, as he belayed them with boot and broom. "Can't you take a hint?" Eventually, the terrified creatures retreated into the darkened forest in disgust and alarm, and delirious with Mortein fumes. Similar attacks from neighbouring tribes punctuated our slumbers, until in the early hours of the morning all was quiet once again. By the next morning to our surprise the premonitions of ill weather had seemingly dispersed, but patches of mist adhered to the summit of Cradle. By 9.30 we had completed the steep ascent up the rocky moun­ tain trail from Waldheim to the Kitchen Hut, pausing frequently to drink in the magnificent scenery. The cluster of mountain lakes and tarns glittered like moonlit seas; ridge after forested ridge receded into the blue horizon of the east. To the south and west, peak after nameless peak reared upwards, seemingly competing with one another for supre­ macy like skyscrapers in a vast city. There was no snow, but the mam­ moth rocks, rugged and windswept, had a beauty of their own. And Cradle Mountain symbolised them all. At the hut, the party split up into three groups; Felix led a small party to the summit of Cradle; Comrade Griffin shot through with several followers to Windemere Hut and a bludge, seven miles away; Alma 34 Cradle Mountain across Dove Lake. Block courtesy Tas. Govt. Tourist Bureau. and myself tore off madly in the direction of Barn Bluff, as the frothy clouds now threatened to exclude the view from the top. Little more can be said, as the winds drew their veils of mist swiftly over the peaks. Several hours later the two climbing parties were seen descending their respective mountains in a distraught fashion, through the thick mist which now covered the plateau and hung over the silent, sodden valleys. The remainder of the day was spent navigating the ooze and marshes that constituted the track. After dropping steeply off the Cradle Cirque. the track paused briefly at Waterfall Valley then rose gently onto a bare windswept plain that bore the full wrath of the winds from the west, and savaged bushwalkers that ventured there. Whilst walking along a particularly muddy patch, a piercing shout from behind signified that Alma had foundered. I found her in a particularly deep and clinging bog, and sinking fast. So out with the portable block and tackle, and heave her out. Now who said Tasmania was a wonderful place to walk? It will be waterwings and flippers for you next time, dear. Eventually, Windemere Hut was reached, nestling by the forest, and set back from the beautiful pine encircled lake of that name. Bushwalkers now began arriving in hordes and the hut was soon overcrowded; by evening the area around and beyond was dotted with small tents of many colours. The weather now considered a respite suitable, and by 6.00 p.m. the blankets of cloud had rolled away from Barn Bluff. There it stood, like an immense ape with its back turned, reflecting the glow of the watery sunset. As usual, when all respectable bushwalkers were asleep, the pos­ sums recommenced their nocturnal rampages. Unmentionable phrases and the noise of flying billies shattered the night air, as the hut dwellers 35 returned fire. Then the creatures besieged the tents, searching intently for carelessly stowed ration bags. One furry intruder entered my tent without knocking, and retreated with such vigour that the flimsy tent pole was knocked down, resulting in utter confusion within. Once ag~in they retreated into the forest, shell-shocked and battle scarred cursmg us for our vigilance. By t!.OO a.m. next day, we were plodding through the mud and button grass across the undulating plains that separated Cradle Mountain from the Pelion Range. Above, the mists slowly dispersed, and from the hilltops we could see Mount Ossa and its associated peaks thrusting their rock strewn towers towards the sky, discarding the malignant clouds that threatened to enshroud them. An hour's walking brought us to the Pine Forest Moor near the edge of the Forth Valley, so named because of the beautiful outcrop of low celery-top pine that characterises it. Two more miles of sucking, yawning bog and the ubiquitous button grass, a short climb over the moraine near Mount Pelion West, and we were descending into the Forth Valley. The track tunnelled through the slip­ pery wet forest, breaking free at times to reveal the magnificent peaks above, which seemingly competed with the now blue skies for our attention. Shortly the Forth River was crossed, and then came the inevitable climb upwards again, boots working overtime coping with the mud and the button grass. I had been here before and knew the stretch well, so no time was wasted. Gradually, the clinging forest broke away, as we drew closer to the Pelion Plains, and the hut. An early camp was in order, and eager bushies discarded their packs and began to secure their rations of H20 and Vitamin D, with the later prospect of total immer­ sion in either. But Chairman Felix arrived with other ideas. Intent upon climbing at least one mountain that day, while the weather was at its best, he con­ tinued onwards towards Pelion Gap, and shortly some would-be bludgers had repacked and followed. So there was a division in the house. A group of six sun worshippers decided to remain, intending to rejoin Felix and his group at their camp on Pelion Gap tomorrow, and spent a very relaxing afternoon. The true highlanders brought their labours to a climax by climbing Mount Pelion East, the reward of the just. Today had been a perfect day. A cloudless sky, a horizon serrated with count­ less peaks, the cool, crisp mountain air and the refreshing streams. Nothing could destroy such beauty and tranquillity. Alas the next day dawned dour and gloomy; thick, silent mists enveloped and obscured the mountain tops; not a breath of wind ruffled the scoparia bushes growing on the Gap. The glorious sunset of yesterday was but a shattered dream. By t! .30 a.m. the two groups had rejoined, and an hour was spent around the dying campfire making gloomy con­ jectures about the weather. Finally we decided that discretion was the better part of valour. To attempt climbing Mount Ossa in these conditions would be pointless and foolish. The mist could, as it does, hang over the mountains for days, and there are always the chance of worse to come. So thirteen dejected bushies turned their backs and plodded down the track towards Cathedral Mountain and Castle Crag, below which lay Ducane Hut and lunch. During the morning we halted at the newly constructed Kia Ora Hut, which commanded fine mountain views and provided access to Mount Ossa, but was rather unsuitably sited, due to lack of natural cover and

View north from Cradle Mountain. Block courtesy Tas . Govt. Tourist Bureau. 36 37 accessible firewood. Shortly after, we encountered by far the worst patch of mud on the track so far. At a certain point, the track straightened out for about two hundred yards, across a flat marshy area, hemmed in by thick scrub, making detours difficult. We cursed the Scenery Preser­ vation Board and the H.E.C. for their folly, and decided that if scientists had not already given Tasmanian mud a biological name, then it was time we did. So, if any further reference is needed, it will be known as 'Siudgudius Felixii'. After a leisurely lunch at the hut, we moved on, stopping to view the Cathedral, D'alton and Fergusson Falls. The Mersey, which flows gently down from the alpine tarns, suddenly cascades over a succession of great rifts, with a deafening roar and with such force that the spray is flung backwards, saturating the darkened forest that overhangs the mighty gorges. We took to the track once more, and made the steep ascent to the Ducane Gap, then turned down the last mile to the Windy Ridge Hut, the most charming and hospitable of them all. It is set deep in the tall eucalypt forest, high in the valley, and commands a fine view of Mount Geryon. Tonight is New Year's Eve. By nightfall, the rain that inevitably followed the mist beat savagely down on the shingle roof above us. The fire crackled merrily on the hearth; deflated balloons and remnants of streamers bedecked the walls, legacies of a recent Bush Christmas that somebody had. So we rang the New Year in four hours early, and hit the hay with hopes of good weather for the first day of 1970. By 10.30 the next morning we arrived at the Narcissus Hut after an easy seven miles from the Windy Ridge Hut. Mist still clung to the mountain tops although the rain had declared a truce. Lake St. Clair, set like a precious stone between the mountains, lay calm and silent, like one of the land-locked fiords of Norway. Warren, convinced by the fish stories told by other bushies that this lake was full of them, decided to remain at the hut overnight with Alex to assist him. So it was arranged that they would meet up with us at Cynthia Bay tomorrow with a week's supply of fish , while the rest of the party took the longer alternative route behind Mt. Olympus via Lake Petrarch. So after leaving our friends to catch their legendary trout, we sloshed onwards across the soggy plains adjacent to the Lake shore, then ascended through the deep and foreboding beech forest to Byron Gap. As we climbed, the forest darkened and closed in upon us; moss, lichens, and slippery roots covered the ground; beside the track lay fallen giants of a past age, rotted by the centuries. The atmosphere was that of a silent cathedral, with not so much as the sound of the wind above the tall trees to break it. As we approached the saddle, the forest gave way to low scrub, and a clear sky, and a magnificent mountain panorama began to unfold before our eyes. As we sat by the track eating our lunch, the legions of mountains paraded before us; Mount Gould and the Guardians marched by in solemn procession; behind us rose Mount Byron, and far on the south-western horizon we could see the notorious Frenchman and the Clymenaestra. Another hour's walk brought us down to the beautiful Lake Petrarch, where we found beauty beyond comparison. A sandy beach skirted the shore, and in places rose pencil pines in stately stands. The crystal clear waters were calm and unruffled, as still and silent as the mountains that they reflected. A campsite was hastily chosen and tents pitched, after which we sat contented on those silver sands watching the sun painting pictures on the shimmering waters and on the backdrop of hills. It was in these moments of peace, listening to the evening music of the birds and the gentle wind murmuring in the forest trees, that one captured 38 Come away with YHA

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40 and embraced the mountains in all their wild beauty, and understood them. For a time the hardships of walking were forgotten and thoughts of home put aside. It is the mountains that have drawn us to these lonely places; they are the source of life, and they symbolise the beauty and eternity of the earth's wildernesses. With the approach of darkness we awoke from our dreams and sought the warmth of the campfire and the seclusion of our tents. The following morning the fabled mountains were lost in the shrouds of mist and fine rain that moved up the valley on the wings of the icy winds. We break­ fasted hurriedly in the gloom of the early morning, then trundled off through the endless scoparia and button grass towards Cynthia Bay, seven miles away. The exponents of short trousers cursed as the clinging, stinging scoparia bushes tore at their bare legs; boghole after boghole yawned beckoningly at us as we navigated their tricky channels. After about two miles the track sought shelter in a belt of eucalypt and nothofagus forest, before bracing itself for the crossing of the button grass ocean. For in crossing this valley, we came across broad treeless expanses of these solid, choking growths, through which a track, muddy and waterlogged as it was, barely managed to pass. Rain fell in earnest now and the wind blew relentlessly; we trudged onwards stooped with the weight of our packs, cape-groundsheets covering bodies, packs and heads. We walked about four miles across the silent saturated plains, ourselves silent; nobody complained, for we knew that the end was near. We looked like a group of coffinless pall-bearers, our entire concentration directed to the ground in front of us, which bogs to avoid, which button grass clumps to use as stepping stones. At length the track mercifully sought higher ground, and after a short walk through the blackened forests above Lake St. Clair, we came to the bridge crossing the fast flowing Cuvier River. The track became a vehicle track, which in turn became a road. A discarded chocolate wrapper, a heap of rusty tins, rooftops, motor cars . . . . . civilization. To our relief a comfortable hiker's hut, showers, canned foods . . . . . Yes, this is civilization all right.

OBITUARY

It is with regret that we note the death of Noel F. Learmonth, an indefatigable worker for conservation in the Western District. Born on 22nd February 1880, Noel worked as a surveyor for the Victorian Railways before taking up grazing at Tyrendarra. He was vitally interested in natural history being the founder of the Portland Field Naturalists Club and an associate of the National Museum in Orni­ thology. As a conservationist he started the ball rolling for the Lower Glenelg National Park and fought strongly for its creation. One of the best occurrences of tree fern in the Park is on Learmonth Creek, named in his honour. Noel Learmonth was also very interested in history and wrote several books about his area. He lost his two sons in the Second World War and is survived by his only daughter. In his passing we mourn the loss of the Grand Old Man of Natural History in Western Victoria. 41 YOU ARE CORDIALLY INVITED TO VISIT MELBOURNE'S LATEST MAPPING AND GUIDE CENTRE

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42 AN ARMY BUSHWALK By Geoff Kenafacke "Standto in five minutes Rocky", says Willie as he quietly wakens the sleeping form. "O.K." he replies as he stirs and fumbles about for his boots. Once located, he vigorously shakes the boots to dislodge any unheralded night visitors, such as scorpions, laces them and then quickly collapses his "hoochie"*. A score of men quietly repeat the same scene in the surrounding shadows. A few minutes later as darkness is quickly replaced by the strong light of a typical, sudden, tropical sunrise, mongeese, bush rats and bats rustle off into their hiding places for another day. Strong shafts of sun­ light spotlight dew on spider webs as the rays penetrate the bamboo thickets in which we've camped. Thus, "Standto", and yet another day in the bush begins. Thirty minutes pass. The clearing patrol returns to the position and reports "All Clear". "Stand down" is passed along the ranks in

Hoochies in Jungle. whispers. Now for shaving and breakfast. Ugh! All I've got left is boned turkey! I wonder who will swap pork slices for this muck? And as for shaving, why really bother? I'm not going anywhere in particular but I'd better make the effort or "Skipper" will lumber me when we get back to camp. The patrol is ready to move on by 0800. "Skipper" has had his "0-group", all the weapons have been cleaned and nobody can think of any good excuses to linger. Resigned to the fact that the patrol is scheduled to last another four weeks, each man shoulders his kit, takes one last puff on his "durry"* and determines to get the day's 7,000 metre trek over as soon as possible. The two scouts, Dusty and Andy, lead off and the rest of us follow

*hoochie. a rough shelter constructed basically from a ground sheet and local vegetation. *durry, cigarette . 43 in single file, keeping about ten paces apart. Soon, we only get occasional glimpses of the man in front, or immediately behind, as they cautiously slip from bush to bush and thicket to thicket. The only noise is that of the numerous birds and perhaps wind in the trees or occasionally a sudden snap, as someone steps on a dry twig. There are many varieties of butterflies, moths and wild orchids but we seldom have the chance to study them properly. Up ahead, Dusty is flitting from shadow to shadow as he crosses the edge of a small clearing. A little further back, Andy has stopped hacking a path with the secateurs and peers intently on the thick bamboo in front of Dusty. Still further back, "Skipper" re-checks our bearing while "Woody" and "Ham" do a quick calculation to convert the number of paces walked into distance so far travelled. By 0900 we've moved 600 metres . . . . . not bad considering the undergrowth. The day has proved hot and humid and most men have already emptied one of their four water bottles. Perspiration soaks our greens and makes them cling to our skin. Droplets that have fallen from our faces and hands on to our rifle barrels will soon turn the metal to rust. Mid afternoon .. . .. and the slog is almost over for the day. The bush suddenly gives way to reveal a dark forest of tall, equidistant, diagonally planted, rubber trees. It will be pleasant walking these next few hundred metres as the big, oval-shaped foliage will filter the sunlight, and cool breezes get through to us as there is no undergrowth. The plantation floor is carpeted with moss or close cropped grass and the whole scene is reminiscent of a forest park back home. All around us, the soft-skinned trees bear the scars of the tappers' knives and in some plots, small earthen-ware bowls are wired to the trunks collecting trickles of sticky, white liquid. Nobody has paid any attention to the sky in the past half hour and it has rapidly changed from a clear blue, to a murky, lead-grey colour. Quite suddenly there is a sharp, explosive crack and a brilliant flash of lightning. Thus yet another, almost daily, tropical downpour descends upon us. Within seconds, sheets of heavy stinging rain are falling but nobody tries to shelter as all know that such a move is futile. Clothes very quickly soak and turn dark green in colour. The brims of "giggle" hats fill and overflow down the wearer's neck. More water trickles down trouser legs and fills heavy boots. Soon the sound of marching feet are accompanied by a squelching noise, but this is hardly audible over the noise of the downpour. The rain ends just as we reach the night harbour position. We're still out of luck though, as darkness will descend before our clothes can dry out. Anyway, there are huge puddles and mud everywhere so we would get wet again in any case. The defences are quickly set up and each man clears a small bivouac site on which he spreads his groundsheet, mosquito net and hoochie, although the latter won't be finally erected until after last light. After that there is just sufficient time for a quick brew of coffee and a cold tin of beef stew before "Standto". Sunset arrives just as suddenly as the dawn. There is no twilight and by 1900 the harbour is in total darkness and absolutely quiet. It's cold, too, as I sit in wet clothes in the lonely, still darkness on the first picquet and I find myself thinking of home. "Wonder how the folks are? . . . Gee, if this was a bushwalk at home I'd be sitting around a good fire now, talking to the gang or maybe even singing . . . Hmph! - You'll never catch me walking again when I get back .. ... A bloke would have to be mad to walk any further than the front door when he gets out of this lot!" 44 SLEEP WARM ••• Wake up Refreshed REMEMBER ••• there is nothing like DOWN

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45 MOUNTAIN MUSTER

Tracks cleared. During the period October-November 1969, members of the Melbourne Bushwalkers, cleared tramline tracks from Starlings Gap to High Lead, all in the Powelltown area. From the foot of High Lead to the Noojee-Powelltown road, fallen logs are still lying across the track. Other sections have been bulldozed, as paper pulp manufacturers are pushing in tracks wherever suitable trees are growing. Over the same period, members of the Victorian Federation of Walking Clubs cleared and marked new tracks in the Mount Buffalo area. It is now possible to walk up and over the plateau in a weekend. One track starts at Lake Buffalo and connects with the existing jeep track near Mollisons Gallery. A second track commences at the Buffalo River at Brookside and connects with the existing foot track to the Old Galleries. Track markers are coloured yellow.

A new attraction in the Grampians is Lake Bellfield. Officially opened by the Premier, Sir Henry Bolte, in 1969, this water storage is part of the Wimmera farm supply system. Situated at the southern end of the Halls Gap area it is now a major feature to be viewed with advantage from the surrounding ranges.

Claimed as the most popular outdoor sport in Sweden, the relatively new craze of orienteering has now reached the local scene, to such an extent that last April saw the inaugural meeting of the Victorian Orienteer­ ing Association and the Orienteering Federation of Australia. The object of these two bodies is to encourage, promote and control the sport of orienteering. The late Harold Gatty described "orienting" as he pre­ ferred to call it, "cross country races on a course that is arranged from point to point. Each point must be reached entirely by map and compass". The Melbourne University Mountaineering Club's Twenty-four Hour Walk, held annually since 1947, is probably the oldest established contest of this type in Australia.

In order to prevent any serious overcrowding of the Cleve Cole Hut during winter months, the Mount Bogong Club requests any parties in­ tending to use this hut during this period, to contact one of the following members: Bill Rowed, 54 Nelson Street, Sandringham, phone 98-2891: Keith Fizelle, 4 Vista Avenue, Kew, phone 80-4988.

In keeping with the current "mini" trend we now have the "mini" park. How disappointing to find that the new Captain James Cook National Park is a mere 6,700 acres, instead of the 45,000 odd acres recommended to Cabinet by the National Parks Authority.

Also we note with regret that part of Mount Buffalo National Park has been leased to a private development company for a hotel-motel complex. Included in the lease is a proposed dam which would form a thirty-five acre lake over what is now sphagnum bog and snow grass plain. The unique Egg Rock formation is included in the area leased.

For those people visiting the National Parks of Wyperfeld and the Little Desert, it is well worthwhile to follow the nature trails in these Parks. Booklets are available from the National Parks Authority, describ­ ing items of historical interest, as well as plants. 46 Do you know that the Australian Freshwater Eel is thought to breed in deep waters near Sumatra? That the Koala does not drink water? Which Introduced Birds are protected in Victoria? These and other interesting questions can be answered after reading the leaflets published by the Fisheries and Wildlife Department. The list of leaflets includes - Animals and Environments, A Ban on Kangaroo Shooting, Dye Day for the Migrants (describes dyeing mutton birds on Phillip Island), Tower Hill State Game Reserve, Serendip Wildlife Research Station, Seal Research Programme, Deer in Victoria, Protected Cockatoos and Parrots, Protection of Animals in Victoria, Cultivation of Earth­ worms, and reprints about various animals.

We have received the following notes from Tasmania:-

The Scotts Peak Road which now reaches Huon Plains passes through some magnificent rain forest scenery which should be included in the approach area to Mount Anne. The road leads past the foot of the climbing ridge to Mount Anne where the Hydro Electric Commission has constructed a parking area for vehicles on the bank of the Con­ dominion Creek. Outside the Park area this road passes through myrtle forest where the H.E.C. has cleared short walks for the benefit of visitors.

At an early stage of construction the South-West Committee approached the H.E.C. requesting care be taken in building this road to ensure minimum destruction of natural scenery. Credit must go to Commission engineers and employees for the manner in which the building of the road has been carried out in difficult country, and for their efforts to avoid unnecessary damage to the scenery.

The North-East Escarpment of the Mount Anne Group has been opened up with a track by the Tasmanian Caverneering Club. It contains a small area of myrtle forest and some interesting flora on the higher slopes. It is also an area of great interest to caverneers as it contains gigantic potholes and numerous caverns. As it is outside the present boundaries these should be redrawn to include it, as there is nothing of a similar nature within a Tasmanian National Park.

Privately organised guided walking tours through the Cradle Mountain ·Lake St. Clair National Park, are proposed during the spring, summer and autumn of 1970-71. Similar in nature to the New Zealand Milford Track walk, but on a less sophisticated scale, these tours are designed to cater for the more than usually energetic tourist. The distance from Waldheim to Narcissus Hut is covered on foot over a period of five days, with one rest day at Ducane Hut. On the last day a launch will carry the party down Lake St. Clair to Cynthia Bay. The adver­ tising pamphlet doesn't answer some questions which come to mind, such as what will happen if the huts are full of genuine bushwalkers, or how the tourists will fare if it rains all day, every day - both of which can be common occurrences in the Reserve at that time of the year. Unlike on the Milford Track, there will be no hot showers or drying rooms at the end of each day. It remains to be seen whether the tours will be to the detriment of the Park. It is possible for an area to remain clean and unlittered even though carrying a large volume of tourist traffic, but the question is - will it? 47 If you want the best - buy

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48 BOOKS FOR BUSHVVALKERS GUIDE TO THE VICTORIAN ALPS: a collection of tracknotes for bushwalking in and around the Great Dividing Range in eastern Victoria. Compiled by Melhourne University Mountaineering Club. Editor David Hogg. Melb., M.U.M.C., 1970. Price $2 .00. Size 10" x H". As the majority of extended walks in Victoria are undertaken in the Victorian Alps, the publication of detailed track notes of the area is most welcome. The volume, in loose leaf format, is divided into six books, the covers of which contain some striking photographs. Book I has an intro­ duction, history, ecology, climate, maps, general bibliography and an index for the region as a whole. The remaining Books 11 - VI are made up of track notes which are divided into eleven areas, such as the Bogong High Plains, the Barry Mountains and Tarli Kargn. Each book has a sketch map of the area, a list of recommended maps and bibliography. The track notes, which are clear and concise, are prefaced by notes giving the access routes to the area. The compilers have not indicated mileages or times to allow for the walks, although there are suggestions for two day, three day walks, etc. Even though mileages and times are arbitrary they would have been helpful to walkers not familiar with an area. The M.U.M.C. is to be congratulated on publishing such a useful and much needed guide. Walkers in our alpine areas will find this an indispensable handbook. It is intended to issue revisions and further books at a later date. MACQUARIE ISLAND, by John S. Cumpston. Canberra, Dept. External Affairs - Antarctic Division, 1968. Price $5.00. Size 10" x 7". The Antarctic has always held a fascination for bushwalkers, and many find their way to its shores. Macquarie Island is a sub-Antarctic isle situated 159•.00'E: 54•.30'S and is 1,000 miles to the south of Hobart. It is a dependency of Tasmania. Macquarie Island by Cumpston is a complete history of the island from its discovery in 1810, up to the time of the British Australian New Zealand Antarctic Research Expedition of 1929-31, describing the men and ships that visited it and the exploit­ ation of the seals and penguins for their oil. The author works as an historian for the Department of External Affairs. He has drawn his facts from Customs House Registers, news­ paper files, Law Courts records, scientific journals and personal papers, to present a most readable, enthralling and detailed description of the life on Macquarie Island during the years of the Macquarie Island oil industry. Cumpston has used maps, charts and historic photographs to illustrate the book. The text draws heavily from extracts from ships' logs and personal diaries, many of these giving vivid accounts of the hardships endured by the men who were isolated for months at a time. Often supplies were low "while waiting for the Tulanekai their rations ran short and they were living on sea elephants tongues and penguins for the last two months." Because of the rocks and reefs that surround the Island and the unpredictable weather, many ships foundered on its shores, frequently with heavy loss of life amongst the crew. Fine seamanship, courage and endurance saved many lives. " . . .. the ship was amongst the breakers. Whalley was knocked down and his leg dislocated at the thigh, and one of the crew had his leg broken below the knee ...... another was washed overboard, but, entangled in the gear, managed to get on board again. The whale-boat and davits were gone, and the second boat smashed; 49 the decks had been swept of everything, and the hatches having been worked loose, were stove in and the ship had filled with water." Sir Douglas Mawson in 1919 set out his case for the setting aside of Macquarie Island as a sanctuary for Australasian sub-Antarctic fauna, "This little island is one of the wonder spots of the world. It is the great focus of the seal and bird life in the Australasian sub-Antarctic regions". During the days of the oil industry the Macquarie Island Parrot and the Fur Seals were exterminated; however, the latter have re­ established themselves on the island. The populations of Sea Elephants and penguins were radically reduced. An example of the slaughter of the penguins for their oil, is that in 1909, "4,000 birds per day were boiled down. The birds were usually taken in two seasons of about twenty-one days each". The sealers introduced rats and rabbits to the island, as well as cats which remain a great menace to all bird life. At the end of 1919 the company exporting the oil ceased operating, but it was not until 17 May 1933 that a Proclamation was signed declaring Macquarie Island a Bird and Animal Sanctuary.

AUSTRALIA'S NATIONAL PARKS, by Michael K . Morcombe. Melb., Lansdowne Press, 1969. Lift-out map. Boxed. Price $9 .95 . Size 12t" x lOt'". "Year by year, at a rapidly accelerating rate, Australia's scenic treasures are being destroyed until we shall be able to leave to our children a legacy of million-dollar roads going only to places as congested or as unattractive as those they left behind", states Michael Morcombe in his book Australia's National Parks. This gloomy prediction may come true if we are not more determined in our efforts to secure more and larger areas of Australia as parklands. Australia has only 1% of its total area reserved in national parks or wildlife sanctuaries. The pro­ portion of a country accepted throughout the world as the absolute minimum is 5%. National parks are not only important for their scenery as tourist attractions, but are essential as regions of wilderness in order to preserve natural habitats and the delicate balance of wildlife and vegetation for scientific ecological studies. After looking at Morcombe's book you may wonder how anyone would purposely destroy the beauty of this country. His magnificent coloured photographs depict not only the wonderful scenery but also the birds, animals and flowers unique to Australia. He has given concise, detailed notes on the history, geological history, and interesting facts of one hundred and two national parks, which have been divided into five regions. There are many geological diagrams, sketches of the fauna and flora, and aboriginal paintings, as well as location maps accompanying each region. There are also maps of some of the parks. The book has a large, exceedingly comprehensive gazetteer contain­ ing a wealth of information. The legislation of each State is briefly outlined, giving the aims and method of control of parks and sanctuaries. There is an acreage comparison of Australia's parks with the great national parks of the world. Under each region every national park is listed with details of its size, locality and accessibility, topography and vegetation, features of interest, activities and accommodation provided, and the best season in which to visit it. Similar details are given for small parks, nature reserves and sanctuary areas. Some birds and furred animals found in each region are listed. Michael Morcombe gives photographic data for his pictures, and an extensive bibliography for further information on parks. 50 60 WITH KRAFT* LIGHT TO CARRY AND QUICK, CONVENIENT USAGE.

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51 Everyone interested in preserving the Australian environment should read Australia's National Parks which accurately portrays what conser­ vationists are fighting for - the beautiful, the spectacular, the incredible. We must have industrial exploration, mining, and allow for the expansion of cities, but "there is room also to preserve the best of the scenery". AUSTRALIAN LIZARDS. by Keith Davey. AUSTRALIAN MARSUPIALS. by Keith Davey. Periwinkle Colour Series. Melbourne, Lansdowne Press, IY70. Price $1.50. Size 7!,. X 5". Lizards and marsupials are frequently seen in the bush. Lizards particularly are common throughout Victoria. Many a Bushwalker has spent a few minutes trying to capture a hastily disappearing Skink, which leaves its writhing tail to fascinate the would-be captor. Both titles are excellent introductions to these groups of animals. The first briefly traces the evolution of lizards from their origin in pre­ historic time to the diverse group of reptiles that they are now. A general description, including appearance, hearing, sight, smell, feeding habits, and reproduction is given. As lizards are often confused with snakes the author lists a few distinguishing differences. He explains the classification of lizards, then in detail describes 52 species, giving both common and scientific names. The layout of the second book is similar to the first with an intro­ duction explaining the definition of a marsupial, a classification of the order and a brief description with photographs of a marsupial birth. The rest of the book is divided into two parts, Polyprotodont Marsupials and Diprotodont Marsupials and describes 115 species from habitats in all Australian States. Both books are profusely illustrated with the author's black and white and coloured photographs as well as his very good line drawings. They have a short glossary and a bibliography covering a wide range, as well as indices to common and scientific names. Australian Lizards and Australian Marsupials are worthwhile including in any bushwalker's library.

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52 THE STATE OF MAPPING By Barry Short

A fair proportion of Victoria is now covered with metric scale maps, as can be seen from the diagram. The diagram shows three types of maps - the 1: 50,000, which are appearing sporadically and in no apparent order, the 1: 100,000 which are being produced in a recognisable order, and the I: 100,000 contoured Firemaps. The last named is a series covering all the State, but only a few of these sheets (see diagram) contain sufficient detail to meet the demands of the bushwalker. Firemaps of other areas are inferior to any other coverage, i.e. Lands, Army or Forests maps, and are not recommended. The I: 100,000 series has priority over all other topographic map­ ping. The Lands Department has finished the Mallacoota block and is now compiling maps in the Warragul and Sale blocks. When these are completed the Warburton, Bairnsdale and Tallangatta blocks will be commenced.

1:5(),000

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The Army has published quite a few 1: 100,000 sheets, and it is believed that in the near future maps in the Ballarat, Portland, Wangaratta, and possibly St. Arnaud blocks, will be printed. National Mapping is producing different types of 1: 100,000 maps. A "PCC" or "Preliminary Compilation Copy", such as Murrungowar, Benambra, is printed in only two colours - brown and black. Because these maps are not field checked they contain numerous omissions and inaccuracies. Another type, the "1st Edition" is printed in full colour, and shows the timber boundaries. These are field checked; examples of these are the Kosciusko and Jacobs River sheets. Some 1st Edition sheets are hill shaded, with the intention of giving the map a three­ dimensional appearance.

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54 WALKS SECTION TWO-DAY WALKS: ALLENV ALE - CUMBERLAND TRACK - MOUNT COWLEY WON WONDAH FALLS Distance: 25 miles. Transport: Private. Features: This is an excellent walk through quite rugged country. It involves a diversity of scenery, ranging from sea level to Mount Cowley, the highest point on the Lorne sheet. There are many excellent views and worthwhile features. Description of Route: The walk requires an early start on the first day, therefore a Friday night camp is suggested on the heights above Henderson Creek at Allenvale (054455). Next morning, take the track heading roughly west above the south bank of Henderson Creek. After about one mile a fork is reached (042452). Follow the left hand branch, Garveys Track, which shortly turns south and crosses Sheoak Creek. The track now climbs and turns west. At the top of the climb, about one mile from Sheoak Creek (032443) a track heads off in an easterly direction. This track is not marked on the map. However, it should be followed towards Castle Rock. The track shortly turns south and then begins to head more to the east. It is necessary to leave the track at a point close to the south­ west edge of Castle Rock and make for this edge through the scrub. Descend from this point in a southerly direction, to emerge on the east side of the Cumberland River close to the Cumberland camping reserve (046426). Cross the bridge to the west side of the river. It is worth­ while to visit the ocean beach before following Cumberland Track. Water for lunch should be collected at Cumberland. The track begins on the west bank of the Cumberland River and climbs steeply in a generally westerly direction. There are some good lunch spots on the track to the north of Mount Defiance. Gradually the ridge narrows until there is a steep drop off either side. The track at times becomes indistinct but, if the summit of the ridge is kept to, it can be followed readily. The map appears to be incorrect in many respects and some caution is necessary. Various tracks heading off the ridge should be ignored. Eventually the track drops steeply for a few hundred feet and then begins a gradual climb towards the plateau directly north of Smith Clearing. There is one track which drops towards the Cumberland River, heading off from the main track at right angles. This should be ignored. Shortly after, as the track climbs towards the broadening top, a fork is reached (approx. 968406) with the left hand branch heading around the left side of the top. The right hand branch should be followed as it climbs on to the top (the map seems to be incorrect here) and branching tracks ignored. About one mile from the last-mentioned fork, on a level east­ west section of the track, a branch track heads off to the north. This should be followed in its descent to the Cumberland River. The track is very overgrown in parts and has many hairpin bends, but it eventually works its way down to the river flats. About one hundred yards from the river the track, to all intents, disappears. If time permits it is prefer­ able to scrub bash to the river, keeping to the top of the spur where scrub is lightest, and cross over to the north bank of the river, where 55 a very well defined track climbs out of the valley. Camp can be made somewhere on the north bank. (approx. 958418) In the morning, follow the track as it climbs out to the Mount Sabine Road. Carry water for lunch. This track is roughly correct as it is shown on the map, although there are many other off-shooting tracks not indicated. These include a road which loops across the track and partly follows it. The track heads north-north-west and at the top of its first climb turns east on to TW Spur, to follow this as it climbs in a north-west direction to the Mount Sabine Road. Follow the road north for about half a mile until Mackie Road is met on the right. This is a track of four-wheel-drive standard. About twenty yards along it there is a grassy track climbing north up to the Mount Cowley Road. Follow this route to the fire-tower (north and then east) meeting the road which climbs up to the tower from the Mount Sabine Road. At the fire-tower (lunch) a track heads off south-east. This should be followed in its descent to a junction (975450). Take the track which descends north-east and then swings round to head east above Henderson Creek (Sharp Road). About a quarter of a mile before the first junction met on the first morning (040453), a foot track leads down to Won Wondah Falls, a worthwhile side trip. On returning to Sharp Road continue on to the starting point at Allenvale. M.G. MAP REFERENCE: Lorne, military, I :50,000. NOTES COMPILED: June, 1969.

AIRE VALLEY - WILD DOG CREEK - SKENES CREEK KENNEIT RIVER The Great Ocean Road, Wild Dog Creek, Beech Forest and Mar­ riners Lookout are just four of a number of names which vividly describe the nature of "The Otways". It is a wild, densely forested, mountainous region. The ranges slope abruptly to the coast and there is an abundance of views, beaches and waterfalls. The difficult nature of the terrain and the density of the vegetation makes it necessary for the walker to be competent with compass and map. With this in mind the following medium-hard walk is suggested. To the northern fringe of the walking area transport is by train to Colac, then bus to Beech Forest. Access to the south is by bus along the Great Ocean Road between Geelong and Apollo Bay. Consequently the suggested walk starts at Beech Forest and traverses the ranges south­ eastwards to the Great Ocean Road at either Skenes Creek or Kennett River. From Beech Forest township walk east two hundred yards, then south off the main street down a forestry road heading into the pine plantations which are clearly visible from the township. Water is available immediately after entering the plantation at two creek crossings, either of which makes a reasonable campsite for a Friday night start. Remember of course that campfires are not permitted in pine forests. The route proceeds along a pleasant grassy firebreak which com­ mences at the point where the road turns sharply east just south of the campsite. Follow the firebreak south-east and then walk through the pines to the main Beech Forest -Apollo Bay road. Follow this road south-west to the Hopetoun Falls. These falls, which cascade about fifty feet, are surrounded by lush ferns. This is an ideal spot for morning tea break. Now head north-east along the road which runs parallel to the north 56 N t ~ I

• ••• • rou~e bank of the Aire River, and again through the conifers on the Beauchamp Falls Road. Follow this road to the Falls Reserve entrance, then walk down the dark and beautiful track through the pines, then through the fern glades to the falls themselves. These falls are very attractive and make a good place for lunch. Head south along the creek-side track downstream of the falls to a point where the track turns back west. "Scrub-bash" through ferns, and once again walk through pines, still on a southerly compass bearing, until the Aire River is reached. Cross the Aire, which is shallow, and climb steeply up Madden Hill southwards to join a jeep track on the hillside. Continue upwards and south to the main Seaview Ridge road running east-west along the ridge-top. Turn east along this road about half a mile to a reasonable roadside campsite just past several small dams. A comfortable night's sleep is assured on the soft pine needles and water is available opposite on the south side of the road in a creek well hidden by ferns. The next day's walk entails a "road bash" east then north, about two miles along the Seaview Ridge road, then east along a lesser road following the Falls Creek - East Barham River divide as far as possible. A particularly hard "scrub-bash" complete with wiregrass leads down to the magnificent fern-glades of the east branch of the Barham River. Cross this and continue walking east up the slopes through scrub to the north-south forestry track on the East Barham River-Wild Dog Creek divide. Along this track scrub often appears to stop progress. However, a little scouting reveals the track continuing southwards although in parts it is hard to follow. Eventually it emerges from the eucalypts to reveal green hills, dairy farms and the coast. It proceeds south-east through a farm and crosses Wild Dog Creek. Climb steeply up to the Forrest - Apollo Bay road and follow it south for about three miles to the Great Ocean Road. Walk east along the coast into Skenes Creek. There are numerous 57 rocks along this last section of the walk and the combination of rocks and small sandy beaches makes a delightful finale to the weekend. To make this a three day walk (perhaps a long weekend) a very interesting variation is to camp at the junction of the Forrest- Apollo Bay road and the Great Ocean Road, finishing the section to Skenes Creek the next day. Water can be obtained from Wild Dog Creek. Climb up the spur to Gentle Annie Lookout from where there is a magnificent panorama of the coastline. From here, walk south-east down a spur to the Great Ocean Road and follow it into Kennett River town­ ship via Carisbrook Falls and the Cape Patten Caves. These caves are immediately under the road at its highest point above the sea. The best approach is to follow along the cliff base from the east to where the entrance is fairly plainly seen. T.T.T. MAP REFERENCE: Otways, I :250.000. NOTES COMPILED: November, 1969 .

THE BLUFF Suitable Season: Late spring, summer and autumn. Early summer is the ideal time as the alpine wildflowers are then at their best. Much of the region is covered by deep snow throughout the winter. Transport: Private car or taxi to Eight Mile Hut. Cars may be driven down the short steep track to the hut or left on the main road. Access: About one mile past Merrijig on the Mansfield - Mount Buller road will be found a road signposted "Howqua Track". Take this road and follow it until the Howqua River is reached at Sheepyard Flat. This point provides a good comfortable campsite for Friday night. After crossing the river here continue to drive along the road which now follows the river upstream. About eight miles from the bridge the road leaves the Howqua valley and heads up a side valley. As this point is approached watch for a jeep track heading downhill steeply from the left hand side of the road. This track is not well marked and could easily be missed. It leads down to Eight Mile Hut which is about a quarter of a mile from the road. Description of Route: 1st Day: 8 miles. Carry water for lunch. Immediately behind the Eight Mile Hut there is a foot track climbing south-east up through the bush. Follow this and watch for another foot track on the right signposted "The Bluff". This will be found after about five minutes walk from the hut. Take this track which climbs steadily through open bush. The ridge soon becomes well defined and after climbing for about one hour the grade lessens con­ siderably and there are good views of the Howqua valley and surround­ ing mountains through the trees. About two and a half miles from the hut the track swings to the east and descends into a small grassy saddle. Climbing steeply out of the saddle will be found an old jeep track. This can be followed gener­ ally east for about a mile along a rocky ridge, with good views of The Bluff and Mount MacDonald to the south. The jeep track then descends steeply into a saddle to the south-east. Here there are some forestry huts and a maze of tracks and roads. These tracks tend to be confusing and it is best to ignore them and head south-east directly towards the bulk of The Bluff. Shortly you will come to a jeep track heading in the same direction and this can be followed until it ends immediately under the 58 A WALK PROGRAMMED EVERY WEEKEND SLIDE NIGHTS, TALKS AND SOCIAL FIXTURES MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS

WALKS OF ALL STANDARDS OF ONE DAY TO ONE MONTH DURATION

WEDNESDAY MEETINGS IN CLUBROOM AT 8 p.m. HOSIER LANE, MELBOURNE

(REAR OF FORUM THEATRE)

FOR THE HIMALAVAS, NEW GUINEA AND OTHER OFF BEAT PLACES AUSVENTURE OUTFITS TRIPS FOR WALKERS AND LOVERS OF WILDERNESS

WRITE: WARWICK DEACOCK P.O. BOX 54, MOSMAN N.S.W. 2088

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60 steep cliffs of The Bluff. There is no track from here on, but the route climbs steeply for 1,200 feet straight up until the summit of The Bluff is reached. Take care to avoid the cliffs on the sides of The Bluff. The summit cairn is about half a mile east of the top of the cliffs, marking the highest point of the large plateau (5,650 feet). From the summit of The Bluff follow the open grassy ridge east two and a half miles until Bluff Hut is reached in a grassy saddle. Cattle pads make the going easy in scrubby patches. Bluff Hut itself provides good shelter for a small party and there are also many good camp sites nearby. Water may be found in a fenced dam one hundred yards south of the hut.

2nd Day: 10 miles. An early start in the morning will allow time for a short walk out to Mount Lovick, two miles to the east. Leaving packs at Bluff Hut follow the jeep track that is a few yards east of the hut, along the ridge to Mount Lovick, returning to the hut by the same route. N .B. The position of Mount Lovick as shown on the Howitt map is incorrect. The summit of the mountain is one mile further east than shown and imme­ diately south of Square Head Jimmy. Fifty yards north of Bluff Hut is a junction of two jeep tracks; one descends steeply to the north and the other sidles the hill to the west. Follow either track as both meet again further down the mountain. Continue to descend heading north-west to a small saddle with a forestry road running through it. Watch for an old track on the right of the main track heading down into the saddle. At the foot of the small hill north of the saddle the track veers to the left. Leave the track here and climb directly up through the bush to the top of the hill. From the summit head north down through moderately thick bush. The ridge is broad at first but later becomes well defined. Occasional blazes are all that is left of the original foot-track. Eventually a road is met coming in from the left. Continue to follow this, crossing some of the tributaries of Sixteen Mile Creek. Ahead will be seen the larger 61 valley of the Howqua River and as the valley is approached watch for the foot-track to Eight Mile Hut on the left side of the road. This track heads west, downstream, climbing high above the river for about two miles. Fourteen Mile Creek is crossed at Ritchies Hut and from here the track follows the river closely. Just over one mile from Ritchies Hut the track crosses the river to the north bank, the first of twelve fords between here and the Eight Mile Hut two and a half miles further downstream. Shortly before reaching the first ford a high level track may be found. This track, which also leads to the Eight Mile Hut, avoids all the river crossings but does not provide such an interesting walk. J.S. MAP REFERENCE: King, Howqua, Jamieson Rivers. V.M.T.C. I" = I mile . NOTES COMPILED: August, 1970.

ONE DAY WALKS: HALLS GAP - MT. WILLIAM TRACK - BORONIA PEAK - LAKE BELLFIELD - HALLS GAP Distance: 8 miles. Features: An easily accessible, but secluded wildflower track; excellent views; a visit to the Grampians new water storage, Lake Bellfield. Description of the route: From Halls Gap camping ground follow the Stawell road north for half a mile, crossing bridge over Fyans Creek, and then passing a farm on the right. Go through eastern gate, close to end bluff of Mount William Range, and cross paddock south to a second gate. An overgrown bull­ dozed track commences here leading south for three miles to Lake Bell­ field . One and a half miles from the farm this track is cut by the foot­ track to Boronia Peak. Allow about 90 minutes to climb the peak and return. Some rock scrambling will be required. Just before reaching quarry by the lake, drop steeply to Fyans Creek valley and cross to picnic ground (fireplace, etc.) below retaining wall. Return to Halls Gap along bush strip on side of Grampians Road. A.S. MAP REFERENCE: Wonderland Forest Park - Halls Gap Area, Stawell and Grampians Tourist and Promotion Advisory Council. NOTES COMPILED: March, 1970.

HALLS GAP- CLEMATIS FALLS- CHATAUQUA PEAK BULLACES GLEN - MT. DIFFICULT LOOKOUT - STONY CREEK - HALLS GAP Distance: 13 to 15 miles. Features: Some of the best viewpoints in the Grampian Ranges. Hard walking and a steep climb. Allow about nine hours to complete the round trip. Description of the route: From Halls Gap camping ground walk quarter-mile north to cross Mount Victory Road. The mile-long tourist pathway to Clematis Falls 62 WALKERS - CAMPERS COME TO The recognised place to purchase your Bushwalking and Lightweight Camping Equipment.

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6227 starts here, just left of the sports oval. The falls are usually reduced to a trickle, but the deep amphi-theatre in which they are situated is worth the visit. The track to Chatauqua Peak is joined 100 yards before Clematis Falls. Climbing steadily through the forest, this track opens out on to an observation rock overlooking the Halls Gap area. The track recommences climbing again in bushes behind the rock, then becomes rather eroded when descending to cross a gully just before a junction. Turn right and in a few yards meet a second junction. Here a sign post points the direction to Bullaces Glen. Climb earth slope to right of Glen, and sidle right along rock ledges until gaining the less rocky spur-crest. Vertical rock-face known as White Cliff will be seen across the deep gully on the left. Allow approximately ninety minutes to complete the climb, which should finish at the Mount Difficult Range road about a half-mile south of the lookout. Fireplace. Return from the lookout and continue west along the Mount Difficult Range road for three miles to join the Mount Victory- Halls Gap road. If there is an hour to spare the side trip to Mount Victory should not be missed. This mountain is one mile north-west along the road. Return to junction and continue for another two miles along the Halls Gap road. About a half-mile after passing a view point parking­ bay overlooking the valley of Gulf Stream, a large loop in the road can be short cut by following telephone line down its clearing. On rejoining the motor road look for a sign board a few yards opposite on the right. This marks a pathway descending to the Stony Creek walking track, along which it is three and a half miles back into Halls Gap. A.S. MAP REFERENCE: Wonderland Forest Park - Halls Gap Area, Stawell and Grampians Tourist and Promotion Advisory Council. NOTES COMPILED: March, 1970.

FOUR ONE DAY WALKS IN THE MOUNT COLE STATE FOREST Here and there throughout the entire Mount Cole State Forest region the Forests Commission has preserved several splendid patches of forest as specimen areas, and has provided walking tracks so that visitors may see the splendid trees in the forest. The walks described are from separate base camps. l. Harveys Flat at the head of the Wimmera River. 2. Near where Ben Nevis Road crosses Quartz Reef Creek. 3. By the Glut Road at its junction with Tunbridges Road. 4. The Victoria Mill Reserve where the Sandy Pinch Road crosses Buckinghams Creek. Walk 1: 6 miles. From camp, amid tall Messmates where the Wimmera starts just below Harveys Flat, walk south to the Little Wimmera Track, turn left, cross the Wimmera, then walk downhill easterly to Water Race Road. Turn left, cross the Little Wimmera River (good camp site near here) and walk north through tall Blue Gums. Continue along Water Race Road past Philipsons Road. Just past Grazing Right Road look for a track turning south-west and climbing around the right side of a large patch of Blue Gums. Continue through Blue Gums, Messmates, and granite 65 rocks. At the next road junction turn right and walk through very large Messmate trees to Harveys Flat. At the next junction turn left and return to camp. Walk 2: 5 miles. From camp on Quartz Reef Creek follow Ben Nevis Road south and west, then walk north along Lookout Road past McGuiness Road to Ben Nevis fire-tower. Continue westerly two hundred yards along ridge to Ben Nevis Trig. (2,876 feet). Good view. Return to junction, turn right and follow Cowans Track west through thick Silver Wattle, Ribbon Gum, Blue Gum and Messmate. A good area during October because of the thick wattle patches. Continue south-west past where Eversley Sugarloaf Road joins on the left. There are several good views of Mount Langi Ghiran and the distant rugged Grampians framed by the trees. Continue westerly along Cowans Track to just below Eversley Sugarloaf, follow rough track to summit. Move around on the northern slope to obtain good views of the very steep south-western granite face of Ben Nevis. Return to junction and follow Eversley Sugarloaf Road easterly through good forest around cool grassy slopes back to camp. Walk 3: 7 miles. Leaving camp by the Glut Road follow a foot track along the creek course upstream for a short half-mile. Look for the jeep track climbing steeply west-south-west to Long Gully. Continue south east past Long Gully for a couple of hundred yards, turn right and follow Big Rock Road re-crossing Long Gully at a lovely ferny glade. Follow Lookout Hill Road climbing north-east to a point east of Lookout Hill, turn west, follow jeep track and climb to summit (3,178 feet). Good view. Television tower five hundred feet high serves Ballarat and district. From here follow the transmission line north-east to S.E.C. Road, follow this east and south-east to Glut Road, turn right and follow back to camp. Walk 4: 5-! miles. At the Victoria Mill Reserve there are several walking tracks which follow a roughly circular route around ferny gullies, specimen timber areas, and timbered slopes, returning eventually to Buckinghams Creek. East of the Mount Cole Road a track leads into the forest past several large Messmate trees. The statistics of these trees are listed on large circular white information discs. An example of one of these specimens is as follows: 'Merchantable log length 140 feet. Volume 5,000 super feet'. By following all the circular routes through the Reserve the total distance is about three and a half miles. Leaving the centre of the Reserve at Buckinghams Creek follow a foot track west-north-west through the best of the specimen areas. At a track junction follow the left track continuing generally westerly down to Buckinghams Creek Road. Turn right and follow uphill to Mount Cole Road. Again turn right, then look for a track on the left leading south-east parallel to the Mount Cole Road through yet another specimen area; at the next junction turn left and follow the track, Hells Hole Track, north-east and north along the course of Hickmans Creek to Water Race Road, turn left and follow this road past MacGees Road to Black Creek Road. Turn right, cross Black Creek and continue north­ west to Mount Cole Road. Turn left and walk south-south-east back to the Reserve. A good walk through some very fine patches of mountain forest. MAP REFERENCE: Mount Cole Forest, F .C .V. 2" =I mile. NOTES COMPILED: May, 1970. 66 This ne"" blanket is ""orth ten times its ""eight in ""arrnth ... FITS IN YOUR POCKET

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68 THE BIG HILL - HUNCHBACK CREEK - YARRA GLEN Distance: 16 miles. Transport: Train, return to Yarra Glen. Features: A most enjoyable walk along some of the quieter parts of the Yarra Glen area. Some very good views. Description of Route: From Yarra Glen station walk up the foot-track to the street directly behind and above the station. Follow this street to its end and then turn right. At the next junction take the left hand road which leads north­ west towards the high country. The road degenerates in quality as it approaches the aqueduct and then begins to climb The Big Hill. Soon after the aqueduct the road turns sharply left- ignore the track which continues straight on, through a gate. As the road climbs it is duplicated for much of its length by a newer road. Which one is followed is immaterial. At the top of the climb turn right on to the main road and follow it north for a short distance until it joins the Christmas Hills Road (369564). Follow the latter north-east for about 70 yards until a dirt road is seen on the north side. Take this road, which after nearly one mile crosses the Mount Wise Road (377576). Continue along the former road for another half-mile, passing one road on the left, until the required turnoff is met on the left. This heads west keeping slightly below the top of a spur. After a short distance there is a stand of trees overlapping the road - a good lunch spot. Continue until the road ends at a junction (363584) and turn right on to the dirt road heading north-north-west. Follow this road for about two miles as it approaches the head of a branch of Watsons Creek on the left. Shortly after the road rounds the head of the creek, a track (so marked on the map, but in actuality a dirt road) appears on the right heading north-west. Follow this as it climbs out on to the Mount Everard spur and continue until a barrier is reached, with one track heading up the spur and the other sidling around the right side. Take this latter track (not marked on the map) and follow it as it turns gradually east and then south above the west branch of Hunchback Creek. The track now climbs gradually to a top (368609). Leave the track here and descend directly east to Hunchback Creek. Cross the creek and climb out east to the prominent top on Yarra Ridge. There is a house here and a track which follows the ridge southwards. This will lead to the Mount Wise Road where it was crossed in the morning. Follow this road east as it drops down towards Yarra Glen. After a sharp turn south the road reaches a junction (385577). Take the road heading east and follow its extension south-east until a road branches to the right. Follow this south and then turn east to get back to the station. M.G. MAP REFERENCE: Yan Yean. military. 1:63 ,360. NOTES COMPILED: September. 1970.

TRA WOOL - MEADOWS HILL - BREECH PEAK - TALLAROOK Distance: 12 miles. Transport: Train, return to Trawool (Sundays only). Features: This is an area ideally suited for day walks, with magnificent views from the edges of the plateau. Carry water for lunch if you are heading for Meadows Hill. Description of Route: From Trawool station follow the road west for about one and a half miles until a spur ascends south-west to Meadows Hill (212247). 69 Climb the spur, which swings south after a while, until the trig. point is reached. Lunch. From here head roughly south-west until the track to "The Mount" is reached just north of this site. Turn west and descend to the branch of Mill Creek (approx. 162204), and then climb out west until the edge of the plateau is reached (approx. 144199). Turn north and follow the long spur down past Breech Peak until it ends at the main road (154238). Take the track heading west-south-west around the base of the spur. After following it for about a mile look for the old foot bridge which crosses Dabyminga Creek to the north of the track (marked on map). Cross the creek and head west-north-west to the road running east-west, which is followed west into Tallarook. The station is on the far side of the two main roads just north of where they branch. An alternative is to climb directly south-west from Trawool, follow­ ing the spur which ends up just north of the reservoir (215212). From here climb west to the plateau of Meadows Hill and continue west until the track is reached as before. MAP REFERENCE: Tallarook. military. 1:50.000. NOTES COMPILED: March, 1970.

KILMORE EAST - BROADHURST CREEK - MONUMENT TOWER - KILMORE - KILMORE EAST Distance: 12 miles. Features: Open hills and quiet backroads on the Kilmore plateau, and in the township a number of historical buildings, e.g. churches, the court­ house, jail, etc. Description of the route: On leaving Kilmore East station turn left into road beside railway line, following it south-east for three miles. About I 00 yards before reaching Broadhurst Creek, a tributary of Dry Creek, follow wheel tracks going through gate on the right of the road and climb the high hill half a mile away to the west (033957). Here there are good views of the sur­ rounding hills, including Pretty Sally which may be recognized by the repeater station on the hillcrest. Descend main southern spur to the timber on Broadhurst Creek where a suitable lunchsite should be found. Cross creek and find wheel-tracks (shown on map as fenced road) under timber belt. In one mile reach a road junction, but continue west for another mile to meet an unmade north-south road at 002962. Turn north along latter for one mile. After crossing a swampy area, track climbs, swinging to the north-west by the corner of a small reservoir. Half a mile further on, there is a second reservoir beside a small picnic ground. Cross embankment, then climb hill on far side to the lookout tower which was originally part of Kilmore's blue-stone jail. Take narrow track on ridge, avoiding new motor track, and return to picnic ground near golf course. Continue on road passing wild-flower sanctuary on the right and reaching bathing pool on the outskirts of the town. Return to Kilmore East station via road north of racecourse which is situated at the north-east corner of the town. From the highway it is two miles east to the railway line, the road turning south for the last quarter-mile. A.S. MAP REFERENCE: Lancefield. military, I :63,360. Kinglake, military, I :50,000. NOTES COMPILED: December, 1969. 70 BULLARTO - BULLARTO RESERVOIR - BABBINGTONS HILL - LYONVILLE MINERAL SPRING - UTILE HAMPTON TRENTHAM FALLS - TRENTHAM Distance: 10 miles. Transport: Train to Bullarto, returning from Trentham. Description of route: From Bullarto station walk west for 200 yards to bitumen road. Turn right to walk east along road. Pass a few shops and in a quarter­ mile turn left into Quartz Track, a Janeway that leads into timber north of the main road. Once inside the forest, the track swings to the right and branches, each branch leads northwards to Bullarto Reservoir (1 t miles from station). Good lunch sites on south-west corner of lake. Walk clockwise around lake until on east shore opposite ranger's house. At this point take a fifty degree compass course and climb to the highest part of Babbingtons Hill. There is a fair amount of fallen timber which may slow progress. From the flattish summit switch to a sixty-four degree compass course in order to pick up spur leading directly to Lyonville Mineral Spring. A gravel road runs north-south past the spring which is contained in a concrete pit. Follow road north. After a quarter-mile, pass branch road over Loddon River on left, then continue north for one mile to grid reference 324901. Leave road here, then cut through bush on a ninety-two degree compass course, keeping to highest part of ridge. Swinging around to the north-east an old timber trail should be picked up in half a mile. On reaching a cleared hill, turn right to keep below a farm fence for 200 yards, then cross waterhole embankment. Climb out to bitumen road at grid ref. 3 34916. Follow this road south-east one mile to Little Hampton. After a further half-mile turn left into a main motor road reaching Trentham in two and a half miles. Disused sections on the right of this road may be followed so as to avoid oncoming traffic. If there is time to spare (1 hour) Trentham Falls may be visited. On reaching corner of branch road to Trentham, continue east for a further three-eighths of a mile to where a foot-track leads to the falls. Return to the main road from where a short cut can be taken across golf course. Rejoin Trentham road near club-house (372882). A.S. MAP REFERENCE: Daylesford, military, 1:63 ,360 . NOTES COMPILED: March, 1969.

COCKATOO- MOUNT MAJESTIC- TOOMUC VALLEY - PAKENHAM Distance: 15 miles. Transport: Train to Belgrave, bus to Cockatoo. Return by train from Pakenham. Description of Route: Commence walking from the fire station at Cockatoo and follow the abandoned narrow-gauge railway for two miles. The first half-mile is northwards between the main road and Cockatoo Creek, and after crossing the latter west to reach an earth road that once formed a level crossing. Here turn left to cross a road parallel to the line and enter the forest by way of an old track that climbs steadily, soon reaching what was once a log-loading site. From here continue west for 200 yards, south for 100 yards, and then descend a shallow gully east before again climbing south. 71 During this last climb pass the ends of two unmade roads in the vicinity of grid reference 492222, and reach an east-west road which leads left for a quarter-mile to a road junction (497215). Turn south for a quarter­ mile to another junction. Turn south-west for half a mile along the road which then swings southwards keeping Bourkes Creek on the left. In about a mile stop for lunch at a fireplace just off the left of the road (494193). East of the fireplace a track goes off through the bush, forking in a quarter-mile. Take the right-hand track, passing a log-loading site, shortly to meet an east-west road with cleared country ahead. Cross directly over road and enter paddock, going south by the timber's edge along the top of the ridge. After a mile go through a gate by a small shed, then continue south down to a motor-road cut in the banks of Toomuc Creek (499168). Turn east for a quarter-mile, following the road to cross a bridge. About a quarter-mile further on look for rough tracks dropping from the side of the road to the creek. These tracks join a jeep track which follows the creek downstream for the next few miles. On reaching the Toomuc Valley Road either follow it to the west for a further six miles' walking to Pakenham, or turn east for a quarter-mile to the highest point of this stretch of road (513122). Enter the paddock and climb to the top of the ridge, following it south-west until sighting a water channel on the left. Drop to the Toomuc Valley Road and walk remaining three miles to Pakenham station. MAP REFERENCE: Monbulk, military, I :50,000. NOTES COMPILED: July, 1969.

TOOLANGI -PAULS RANGE- SCHOOLHOUSE RIDGE Distance: 9 miles. Transport: Arrange private transport to start at Toolangi P.O. (491695) and meet at finish of walk at corner of Pauls Lane and Old Healesville Road ( 454618). Features: An easy ridge walk with views through the trees. Wildflowers abundant in spring. Carry water for lunch. Description of Route: Start from Toolangi P.O. - Store. Follow the main road south, on the left will be seen "Arden" where C. J. Dennis wrote much of his poetry. After five hundred yards when all the houses have been passed, take to bush on right hand side of road and head south to road running generally east-west. Good views are obtained of Pauls Range and the Yarra Valley, from this road. Turn right at this road and follow it to 480701 where a track will be taken to head south down Pauls Range. This track follows the range for approximately four miles before dropping off to the left. Lunch can be eaten wherever the stomach demands it. When the track drops off to the left follow the main ridge for the remainder of the distance. As Schoolhouse Ridge is mainly farmland, to prevent fence hopping head south-west at 475602 to meet the end of the pipeline. Follow Pauls Lane from the aqueduct to transport at Old Healesville Road. D.P. MAP REFERENCE: Yan Yean , military, I: 63, 360. NOTES COMPILED: September, 1970.

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