Natural dyeing plants as a source of compounds protecting against UV radiation

Katarzyna Schmidt-Przewoźna*, Małgorzata Zimniewska

Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants Wojska Polskiego 71b 60-630 Poznań

*corresponding author: [email protected]

Summary

The Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants has been carrying out a complex re- search related to application of natural dyes on fabrics. Colors of nature, obtained from various plants, have contributed to creating a collection of clothes produced from linen fabrics. The UV radiation can cause earlier skin ageing, burns and even skin cancer. The increasing hazard posed by UV radiation due to thinning of the ozone layer forces the tex- tile producers to pay attention to providing textile products with barrier properties that would guarantee the protection against harmful UV radiation. The results of the studies proved that many fabrics dyed with dyeing plants using the original method developed at INF&MP are characterized with good or very good protection factors. Fengurek Trigo- nella foenum-graecum, coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria L., knotgrass Polygonum aviculare L., India madder Rubia cordifolia L. the are represent group of plants with excellent UV properties.

Key words: natural dyestuffs, dyeing plants, UV radiation, ecology, colors

Introduction

During last eleven years the research program on natural dyestuffs has been carried out in the Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants in Poznań. The research has been based on historical sources and laboratory trials. Approximate- ly 50 dyestuffs of plant origin have been tested in this period for possible applica- tion in natural raw materials. The project is carried out by Laboratory of Natural Dyeing INF&MP with cooperation with herbal companies and botanical gardens. The results of the studies with natural dyes have shown that naturally dyed linen

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and hemp fabrics are characterized with good resistance to sweat and washing, some of them also to light. The global trends in designed collections are more and more focused on clothing influence on human organism. Health hazard caused by UV radiation, recently increasing, forces clothing producers to pay attention to giving their products barrier properties that would guarantee the protection against this harmful factor. A lot of linen fabrics dyed with natural dyes show these properties. Comfort and style are inextricably bound up with each other. The final product – a linen and hemp fabric dyed with natural dyes is a unique ecological product of the kind. Those fabrics dyed with natural dyeing plants, in a wide range of colors, healthy for human organism and protecting against UV radiation. The collection ”Color of nature” made from the natural fabrics is protected by the patent submission No. Z-3363353

Materials

Historical collection of dyeing plants was established in INF&MP experimental plantation Pętkowo in 2003. The garden has been used as a place for trainings and experiments dedicated to students of agriculture and environmental protection as well as artwork conservators and artists. Natural dyes are the sources of a huge palette of colors with few limitations of fastness and brilliancy of shade. All but one plants cultivated in our experimental station are mordant dyes.

The sources of natural dyestuffs cultivated in experimental farm INF

Yellow colors: weld Reseda luteola L., dyer’s camomile Anthemis tinctoria L. (Fig. 1), dyer’s coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria L. (Fig. 2), coreopsis Coreopsis grandiflora L., French marigold Tagets patula L., dyer’s greenweed Genista tinctoria L, safflower Carthamus tinctorius L. Blue colors: woad Isatis tinctoria L. Red colors: madder Rubia tinctorium L. (Fig. 3), safflower Carthamus tinctorius L., French marigold Tagets patula L.

Extraction of dye

The dry and fresh plants are crushed to small pieces and soaked in hot water overnight, boiled one hour and filtrated.

Mordants

In our methods there were used: oak galls, sodium carbonate anhydrous, cop- per sulphate, citric acid, iron - ferrous sulphate and alum - potassium aluminium sulphate. Natural dyeing plants as a source of compounds protecting against UV radiation 313

Figure 1. Dyer’s camomile Anthemis tinctoria L.

Figure 2. Dyer’s coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria L.

Figure 3. Madder Rubia tinctoria L., experimental farm, INF&MP

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Development of color in linen, hemp and silk fabrics

Equipment

Laboratory dyeing machine: EASYKROME UGOLINI (fig. 4, 5).

Figure 4, 5. Dyeing process in laboratory dyeing machine – dyer’s camomile Anthemis tinctoria L.

UV Protection Factor of naturally dyed linen, hemp

The study comprised also determining Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) of linen, hemp fabrics dyed by natural dyestuffs. It also described the influence of fabrics structure, color, methods of dyeing on level UV protection. Fabrics: linen and hemp

UPF protection on linen and hemp

In the Laboratory of Physiological Influence of Textiles on Human Body a rese- arch was done in order to compare the result of UPF protection on linen and silk samples dyed with dyes of plant origin. There are many ways increasing the UPF barrier effect. The transmission, absorption, and reflection of UV radiation are in turn depen- dent on the fibre, fabric construction (thickness and porosity) and finishing. Many dyes used in finishing process absorb UVR. Darker colors of the same fabric type (black, navy, dark red) will usually absorb UVR stronger than light pastel shades and consequently will have a higher UPF rating. The finishing of textiles plays a very important role in eco-production. Natural fibres show good sun protection thanks to contents of natural pigments like lignin, waxes and pectins that act as UFR absorbents. The UPF barrier effect can be obtained also with the use of spe- cial UV blockers, which are generally used in medicinal products and cosmetics. There is a very wide list of UV blockers presented in Chemical@Engineering News (April 2005) [6]. In this study numerous colours applied on fabrics were analyzed. Natural dyeing plants as a source of compounds protecting against UV radiation 315

Natural sources of colour used in our treatments are weld Reseda luteola L., tumeric Curcuma longa L., common knotweed Polygonum aviculare L., dyer’s core- opsis Coreopsis tinctoria L., madder Rubia tinctorum L., cuth Accacia catechu, henna Lawsonia inermis L. and Logwood Haematoxylum campechianum L. Determination of the UVR transmission of a dry textile was done in accordan- ce to Australian/New Zealand standard and British standard for sun protection clothing with the use of Cary 50 Solascreen apparatus (tab. 1, 2).

Ta b l e 1 . The UPF classification system (according to the Australian Standard) [1] UPF RANGE UVR protection category UPF ratings 15–24 Good, but insufficient protection 15, 20 25–39 very good protection 25, 30, 35 40–50, 50+ excellent protection 40, 45, 50, 50+

Ta b l e 2 The results of UPF on linen and hemp samples dyed by natural dyestuffs. The study was conduded according to: PN-EN ISO 13758-1:2002 No. fabric dyeing plant colour mordant UPF 1. linen white no mordant 10 2. hemp white no mordant 5 3. linen dyer’s coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria L. old gold no mordant 30 4. linen dyer’s coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria L. old gold soda 40 5. linen dyer’s coreopsis Coroepsis tinctoria L. gold citric acid 35 6. linen dyer’s coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria L. dark brown ferrous sulphate 50 7. linen tumeric Curcuma longa L. yellow premordant 25 8. linen tumeric Curcuma longa L. light yellow no mordant 20 9. linen tumeric Curcuma longa L. olive yellow premordant+copper sulphate 30 10. linen tumeric Curcuma longa L. sun yellow citric acid 30 11. hemp tumeric Curcuma longa L. sun yellow no mordant 15 12. hemp tumeric Curcuma longa L. yellow premordant 20 13. hemp tumeric Curcuma longa L. bright yellow premordant citric acid 15 14. hemp tumeric Curcuma longa L. dark brown premordant+copper sulphate 25 15. hemp tumeric Curcuma longa L. sahara yellow premordant+soda 30 16. hemp tumeric Curcuma longa L. olive brown ferrous sulphate 30 17. linen dyer’s camomile Anthemis tinctoria L light yellow alum 20 18. linen dyer’s camomile Anthemis tinctoria L. yellow premordant+alum 50 19. linen French marigold Tagets spieces L. (red flowers) olive no mordant 15 20. linen French marigold Tagets spieces L. (red flowers) dark olive soda 25

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21. linen black myrobalan Terminalia chebula yellow alum+soda 50 22. linen black myrobalan Terminalia chebula yellow copper sulphate 50 23. linen black myrobalan Terminalia chebula cream alum 20 24. linen annato Bixa orellana L. orange soda 10 25. linen madder Rubia tinctorum L. light red premordant+alum 25 26. linen knotgrass Polygonum aviculare L. dark brown ferrous sulphate 50 27. linen India madder Rubia cordifolia L. brown premordant+alum 25 28. linen India madder Rubia cordifolia L. red soda 50 29. linen logwood Haematoxylum campechianum L. violet copper sulphate 30 30. linen henna Lawsonia intermis L. brown copper sulphate 35 31. linen indigo Indigofera tinctoria L. dark blue no mordant 50 32. linen fengurek Trigonella foenum-graecum L. beige soda 40

Results

Excellent UVR protection were obtained in samples of: • India madder Rubia cordifolia L. ( linen) – no mordant: +50 • India madder Rubia cordifolia L. ( linen) – washing soda: +50 • knotgrass Polygonum aviculare L. (linen) – ferrous sulphate +50 • indigo Indigofera tinctoria L. (linen) – +50 • fengurek Trigonella foenum-graecum L. – soda 40 • black myrobalan Terminalia chebula L. (linen) – alum+soda +50 • black myrobalan Terminalia chebula L. (linen) – copper sulphate +50 • dyer’s coreopsis Coroepsis tinctoria L. (linen) – copper sulphate +50 • dyer’s coreoposis Coreopsis tinctoria L. (linen) – soda 40 A very good protection were obtained in samples of: • dyer’s coreoposis Coreopsis tinctoria L. (linen) – no mordant 30 • dyer’s coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria L. (linen) – citric acid 35 • tumeric Curcuma longa L. (linen) – premordant 25 • tumeric Curcuma longa L. (linen) – premordant + copper sulphate 30 • tumeric Curcuma longa L. (linen) – citric acid 30 • tumeric Curcuma longa L. (hemp) – premordant + copper sulphate 25 • tumeric Curcuma longa L. (hemp) – premordant + soda 30 • tumeric Curcuma longa L. (hemp) – ferrous sulphate 30 • French marigold Tagets spieces L. (linen) – soda 25 • madder Rubia tinctorum L.– (linen) premordant +alum 25 • India madder Rubia cordifolia L. (linen) – premordant + alum 25 • logwood Haematoxylum campechianum L. (linen) – copper sulphate 30 • henna Lawsonia intermis L. (linen) – copper sulphate 30 Natural dyeing plants as a source of compounds protecting against UV radiation 317

Conclusions

A vision of the world of natural dyes renewed both by the awareness of threads on natural environments and recent interdisciplinary research gives a new oppor- tunity for designing unique collection of clothes. Recently, considerable attention has been paid to the barrier properties of textiles designed for clothing as a pro- tection against UV radiation, while also taking into account the trends of current fashion. The findings reported in the literature concerning the barrier properties of fabrics in relation to UV radiation show that attention has been focused on the physical aspect of barrier properties of fabrics or yarns used for fabric production. Linen and hemp fabrics with good UV properties are healthy eco-productw. • Fabrics used in the summertime apparels often provide poor protection against UV because they are usually made from light–to-medium weight fa- brics. • Dyeing and finishing process improve sun protection properties, irrespective of chemical nature of the fibres. • The study of UPF on linen and hemp samples dyed by natural dyestuffs sho- wed that many samples have very good and excellent sun protection. • The main focus in “eco product” production is placed on finishing methods. However, such processes may not be considered without relation to the ma- terials, yarn manufacturing, knitting and weaving. • The aim of our research is to create the eco-technology in natural dyeing and to create a modern, ecological textile products. The aim of the Institute’s research is to create ecological clothing with the best parameters and high comfort which also protects from harmful UV radiation. • Apart from its traditional functions (protection against changeable weather conditions and mechanical damage of skin, fashion and creating self-image), clothing must now perform other functions – i.e. must act as a barrier against harmful UV radiation. • Results of our work were patented and got a trade mark “Color of nature”. In summertime linen clothing feels the best. Colours of naturally dyed fabrics add to the esthetics of linen and as our studies have shown, a large group of such fabrics protects very well against UV radiation which is their added value.

References

1. Sun protective clothing – Evaluation and classification – Australian/New Zealand Standard 1996:5. 2. Pailthorpe. MT. Sun Protection and Apparel Textiles. The 3rd Asian Textile Conference 1995:909-914 3. Rupp J, Bohringer A, Yonenaga A, Hilden J. Textiles for protection against harmful ultraviolet radiation. International Textile Bulletin 2001; 6:20-1. 4. Schmidt-Przewoźna K, Zimniewska M. The effect of natural dyes used for linen fabric on UV-blocking. In: Renewable Resources and Plant Biotechnology USA 2006:112-13. 5. Reisch MS. “New –wave sunscreens”, “Chemical@Enginiering News 2005:23-4.

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Rośliny barwierskie źródłem związków chroniących przed promieniowaniem UV

Katarzyna Schmidt-Przewoźna*, Małgorzata Zimniewska

Instytut Włókien Naturalnych i Roślin Zielarskich ul. Wojska Polskiego 71b 60-630 Poznań

*autor, do którego należy kierować korespondencję: [email protected]

Streszczenie

Instytut Włókien Naturalnych i Roślin Zielarskich w Poznaniu prowadzi kompleksowe badania związane z zastosowaniem roślin barwierskich do barwienia tkanin z surow- ców naturalnych. Kolory natury otrzymane z wielu roślin przewidziane są do barwienia tkanin i przygotowania ekologicznej odzieży. Promieniowanie UV może być przyczyną przyspieszonego starzenia się skóry, oparzeń, a nawet raka skóry. Wzrastające w ostatnich czasach zagrożenie promieniowaniem ultrafioletowym wynikające ze zmniejszenia warst- wy ozonowej, wymusza na producentach odzieży zwrócenie uwagi na zapewnienie wyro- bom odpowiednich właściwości barierowych, gwarantujących ochronę użytkownika przed szkodliwym promieniowaniem UV. Wyniki prowadzonych badań pokazały, że wiele tkanin barwionych roślinami barwierskimi w opracowanej w IWNiRZ oryginalnej technologii charakteryzuje się dobrą lub bardzo dobrą ochroną. W grupie o doskonałej ochronie znalazła się kozieradka pospolita Trigonella foenum-graecum, nachyłek barwierski Coreopsis tinctoria L., rdest ptasi Polygonum aviculare L., marzanna indyjska Rubia cordifolia L.

Słowa kluczowe: naturalne barwniki, rośliny barwiarskie, promieniowanie UV, ekologia, kolor