quarterlyoverland of the oregon- trails association journalvolume 34 · number 1 · spring 2016

On arriving at Snake river they commenced at once to build a fort. quarterlyoverland of the oregon-california trails association journalvolume 34 · number 1 · spring 2016 John Winner President The Oregon-California Trails Association Pat Traffas Vice President Marvin Burke Treasurer P.O. Box 1019 · Independence, mo 64051 Sandra Wiechert Secretary www.octa-trails.org · (816) 252-2276 · [email protected] Jere Krakow Preservation Officer John Krizek Past President preserving the trails F. Travis Boley Association Manager octa’s membership and volunteer leadership seek to preserve our heritage. Our Kathy Conway Headquarters Manager accomplishments include: Marlene Smith-Baranzini · Purchasing Nebraska’s “California Hill,” with ruts cut by emigrant wagons as they climbed Overland Journal Editor from the South . Ariane C. Smith Design & production · Protecting emigrant graves. · Initiating legislation designating the California and Santa Fe trails as National Historic trails. board of directors Cecilia Bell · Persuading government and industry to relocate roads and pipe lines to preserve miles of Don Hartley pristine ruts. Duane Iles Jere Krakow conventions and field trips Our annual convention is held in a different location with proximity to a historical area each Matt Mallinson Dick Nelson August. Convention activities include tours and treks, papers and presentations, meals and Vern Osborne socials, and a display room with book dealers, publishers, and other materials. Loren Pospisil Local chapters also plan treks and activities throughout the year. Bill Symms publications Overland Journal—Issued four times each year, O.J. contains new research and publications committee re-examinations of topics pertaining to the history of the American West, especially the William Hill, Chair Camille Bradford development and use of the trails. Robert A. Clark News from the Plains—Also issued quarterly, News contains updates about members and the Susan Badger Doyle organization, convention reports, legislative action, genealogy, trail preservation, and special Stanley Paher activities. Jesse Petersen Special Publications—Periodic book publications in the Emigrant Trails Historical Studies Series (numbered documentary editions) and the Special Publications Series (trail studies ex officio members monographs). Travis Boley Kathy Conway research and education Bill Martin · Developing instructional materials to help students understand the migration. Ariane C. Smith · Marking the trails and maintaining weathered or damaged markers. Marlene Smith-Baranzini · Developing a computer-based census of emigrant diaries, newspaper accounts, letters, and other documents. editorial advisory board Ruth Anderson statement of purpose David Bigler The purposes for which the Association is organized are as follows: Roger Blair 1. To initiate and coordinate activities relating to the identification, preservation, Randy Brown interpretation, and improved accessibility of extant rut segments, trail remains, graves and Donald Buck associated historic trail sites, landmarks, artifacts, and objects along the overland western Robert A. Clark historic trails, roads, routes, branches, and cutoffs of the Trans-Mississippi region. Peter H. DeLafosse 2. To prevent further deterioration of the foregoing and to take or pursue whatever measures Susan Badger Doyle necessary or advisable to cause more of the same to become accessible or more so to the Jim Hardee general public. Thomas H. Hunt 3. To implement these purposes by acquiring either alone or through or jointly with other— Larry Jones federal, state, local, or private—title to the land or lands on which any of the same is Charles W. Martin Jr. located or a preservation or other easements with regard to the same—by purchase, gift, or Robert L. Munkres otherwise—and by cooperating with or initiating, coordinating, and assisting the efforts of such others to do so. submissions and editorial contact Prospective authors should send queries or 4. To publicize and seek public exposure of the goals and activities of the Association so as to their articles to Marlene Smith-Baranzini, create popular awareness of and concern for the necessity of preserving the foregoing. Overland Journal, P.O. Box 265, Tracy, ca 5. To facilitate research projects about the aforesaid and to publish a journal as a forum for 95378 (email: [email protected]). Manu- scholarly articles adding to the sum of knowledge about the same. scripts should be typed, double-spaced, It shall be the further purpose of the Association to be exclusively charitable and educational without embedded illustrations, and with within the meaning of Section 501(c)(3) of the Internal Revenue Code. endnotes numbered consecutively. When possible, include suggestions for illustra- Copyright © 2016 by the Oregon-California Trails Association. issn 0738-1093. Overland Journal tions. Inquiries concerning suitable topics is published quarterly by the Oregon-California Trails Association, P.O. Box 1019, Independence, and author guidelines are welcome and mo 64051-0519. Members receive each Overland Journal issue as part of their membership should be addressed to the editor. Neither privileges. Contents are protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without permission. the editor nor the Association is responsible The Association disclaims responsibility for statements of facts or opinions expressed in signed for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, contributions to the Overland Journal. Articles are abstracted and indexed in Historical Abstracts, artwork, or other material sent for editorial America: History and Life, and online in Uncover. consideration. spring 2016 contentsvolume 34 · number 1

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2 Behne by John Briggs 5 Contributors 6 Building A Story Told by Many People By Jerry Eichhorst 22 20 Suggested Convention Reading by Jerry Eichhorst 22 Speech at Old Fort Hall, Idaho by Ezra Meeker 25 25 Diaries across Idaho Curiosities on the in Southeast Idaho 41 Looking West By Jerry Eichhorst Mapping and Trail Inventory Projects 37 Reviews from the Trail By David J. Welch Confessions of a Revisionist Historian: David L. Bigler on 44 Letters to the Editor the Mormons and the West · on the cover A Way across the Mountains: Thomas Moran (1837–1926), Great Falls of Joseph Walker’s 1833 Trans- Snake River, Idaho Territory, 1876 (detail), Sierra Passage and the Myth of chromolithograph on paper, 8⅜ × 12½ Yosemite’s Discovery · John A. in. L. Prang & Co, and Thomas Moran. “Snowshoe” Thompson, Pioneer Retrieved from the Library of Mail Carrier of the Sierra Congress, https://www.loc.gov /item/95502111. (Accessed March 14, 2016.) Public domain. from Fort Hall in Eastern Idaho and from the Idaho Chapter. * Welcome to OCTA’s Thirty-Fourth Annual Behne Convention: “Cultures and Changes.” *‘Hello’ in Shoshoni.

Built in Pocatello, Idaho, in 1963, this Fort Hall replica replaced the original Fort Hall Trading Post, which sat close to the Snake River and was destroyed by floods. The replica was built using the fort’s original site plans and adobe-style walls. Within the fort’s walls are a number of log structures. Photograph by John Briggs.

2 overland journal · spring 2016 from Fort Hall in Eastern Idaho and from the Idaho Chapter. Welcome to OCTA’s Thirty-Fourth Annual Convention: “Cultures and Changes.”

*‘Hello’ in Shoshoni.

john briggs · behne 3 n the fractured land of the Snake River, you will see the impact of major geologic shifts that you may have never seen before. ITectonic plate collisions, fault mountains, volcanic eruptions, Join us at Fort Hall in August to hear the Shoshone-Ban- and massive floods molded it. They carved the geography and nock view of the fur trappers and pioneers. Hear about the shaped especially the sinuous courses of the Snake, Bear, and trading that went on between the trappers and Native Ameri- Portneuf rivers. These rivers determined where the animals cans. Listen to the words of the pioneers from their own could go and the lava flows set where they could not, and thus diaries as they approach Fort Hall. Learn about the military the trails that animals forged were fixed. Native Americans effort to build the Lander Trail and about the discovery of followed those trails for thousands of years and in turn were . Appreciate the massive train of 338 wagons and followed by the great explorers. Fur trappers followed, and more than a thousand people that Tim Goodale guided safely then missionaries. As they recorded and mapped their routes, across his or Jeffrey’s Cutoff in 1862. Hear how the popular the pioneers were able to follow. The pioneers were followed press of the time portrayed the Native Americans. by the settlers and, soon thereafter, the military. They all used There will be preconvention and post-convention tours. the same trails and passes and in turn were followed by the The preconvention tour from the east will cross Mount Put- stage lines, roads, and railroads. nam and pass along the trail on the reservation, a journey Come to OCTA’s Idaho Convention, August 1–5, 2016, and requiring the special permission of the Shoshone-Bannock you will be able to see many of these things. Just southeast of and not available to everyone. Others will take in Hudspeth’s Fort Hall, on the Oregon-California Trail at Sheep Rock, the Cutoff, the California Trail through City of Rocks National north-flowing Bear River was dammed by lava and turned back Monument, and Goodale’s Cutoff winding its way around to the south. Instead of flowing as it once did into the Snake Craters of the Moon National Monument. River and the Pacific Ocean, it now flows into the Great Salt The five planned bus tours will take you to Pierre’s Hole; Lake basin. The south-flowing Portneuf, meanwhile, was simi- Soda Springs and Sheep Rock; Massacre Rocks and Raft River larly dammed. It too was turned back, but into the Snake. The Parting of the Ways; the ruts in Milner Recreation Area; or on animals followed these new courses. Later, so did the Native a scenic tour of Eastern Idaho. You will be able to walk the ruts Americans and, eventually, the pioneers strung together seg- at Milner or on the Hudspeth or Goodale Cutoff. The scenic ments of these routes to form the Oregon-California Trail. tour will take in unique Big Spring, a first-magnitude spring The animals also had their “wintering” spots—areas that releasing over 120 million gallons of water each day, Upper were of milder climate than the surroundings. Fort Hall Mesa Falls, and the dramatic western slopes of the Tetons. “bottoms” was one of these. It was natural for the Shoshone Take in the rifts and lava flows, springs, and cinder cones. to gather here and for Nathaniel Wyeth to site his trading The Idaho Chapter and the Fort Hall Reservation are post where they were camped, close to the confluence of the working hard to bring OCTA members and friends to south- Portneuf and Snake rivers. The Bannocks were a little farther eastern Idaho. Please bring your partners and your kids, and north, but still close by, at the confluence of the South and join us at this unusual setting on the Fort Hall Reservation Henry’s Forks of the Snake. The site of Fort Hall was deter- at the Shoshone-Bannock Hotel and Event Center, Fort Hall, mined by the need for trading partners, and thus the route of Idaho. You should already have received your OCTA registra- the trails was predestined. The Oregon-California trails came tion packet! in from the east and departed to the west. Lander’s trail came John Briggs in from the east and passed through to the west. Hudspeth’s Chairman, OCTA 2016 Convention Cutoff was to the south and Jeffrey’s or Goodale’s Cutoff to [email protected] the north. Fort Hall was a key to the western expansion of the Idaho Chapter of Octa  of America, ultimately to the disadvantage of the Native Americans already in residence.

4 overland journal · spring 2016 contributors to this issue

Jerry Eichhorst is the president and webmaster of the Idaho Chapter of the Oregon-California Trails Association (www.Idahoocta.org), as well as a Business Intelligence Analyst for the JR Simplot Company in Boise, Idaho. A longtime OCTA member, he enjoys researching emigrant diaries on the journey across Idaho. He has contributed articles to the Overland Journal and Idaho Magazine, and is compiling emigrant diaries for a book manuscript, “Diaries Across Idaho.” He also regularly con- ducts classes on the Oregon Trail for Boise Schools Community Education and the Osher Institute at Boise State University. Dave Welch served as octa’s president and national trails preservation officer. He also has been Northwest Chapter president and a member of the national board of directors. He is currently chair of octa’s mapping and marking committee and the investment advisory committee. Dave is a retired aeronautical engineer and lives with his wife Wendy in Lacey, Washington.

book reviewers

Robert Clark, editor-in-chief of Washington State University Press, a past editor of Overland Journal, and former president of The Arthur H. Clark Company. He is a charter member of the Oregon-California Trails Association. He is the current editor of the Lewis and Clark Heritage Trail Association’s journal, We Proceeded On. Martha Voght, an author/historian/quilter who lives in Bishop, California. She has written numerous historical monographs and educational film scripts, plus seven historical novels. She is currently investigating western narratives as a literary genre. Jim Hardee, the Editor of the Rocky Mountain Fur Trade Journal, an annual, peer- reviewed publication of the Museum of the and the Sublette County Historical Society in Pinedale, Wyoming. He is the author of Pierre’s Hole! The Fur Trade History of Teton Valley, Idaho and Obstinate Hope, the Western Expeditions of Nathaniel J. Wyeth. Jim lives in Pierre’s Hole, Idaho.  by jerry eichhorst Building Fort Hall A Story Told by Many People

Idaho’s Fort Hall region sits on the southeast side of the Snake River a few miles upstream from the mouth of the Portneuf River. The area is a fertile bottomlands filled with lush grasses and numerous streams.

The great Bonneville Flood, which swept through the region trading post was built a few miles south of the original trading thousands of years ago, changed the river’s landscape as the post as new road traffic skirted the original site in the 1860s. massive volume of rushing water carved a deep canyon for In 1867, the Fort Hall Indian Reservation Agency headquar- much of the Snake River below the Portneuf River. Fossils of ters were established here. Finally, in 1870, several miles to the ancient mammoths found along the river near American Falls east on Lincoln Creek, military Fort Hall was built. By 1883, show the valley has long been a home to wildlife. Buffalo herds it too was abandoned. Each of these establishments encom- were once common. Trout, deer, elk, and other game were passed significant regional history. This article will focus on plentiful. It is a rich land with mild temperatures. Indians the original Fort Hall trading post built by Nathaniel Wyeth. lived and hunted in the area for hundreds, if not thousands, of A map of the Fort Hall area appears on page 9. years. Primarily inhabited by Shoshones, the area was visited by the Blackfeet tribe, often resulting in conflicts and battles. The westward migration of the white men changed the area The Nathaniel Wyeth Expedition forever, also frequently through conflicts as well. With a previous trip west two years before and a contract in Through the course of fifty years, there were several loca- hand with the Rocky Mountain Fur Trade Company to sell tions known as “Fort Hall.” The original trading post was built his goods to the company’s trappers at their annual summer in 1834. In August 1849, a small military post called Canton- rendezvous, Nathaniel Jarvis Wyeth, a Boston ice merchant, ment Loring was established three miles north of the trading convinced wealthy eastern investors of his ability to make post as a home for two companies of mounted U.S. riflemen. much money acquiring furs from the Rocky Mountains and Less than a year later it was abandoned when the military salmon from the . Wyeth planned to purchase moved west to The Dalles, along the Columbia River. A small furs at the trappers’ annual summer rendezvous, then take

6 overland journal · spring 2016 them to the Columbia River where he would purchase salmon, One of the laymen with , Philip Edwards, wrote and ship both back to . On April 28, 1834, Wyeth a letter from the Ham’s Fork rendezvous in which he said of started west with a group of between fifty and seventy men, 250 Wyeth, “much credit is due to captain Wyeth, for the man- horses, and $3,000 in merchandise, headed for the Ham’s Fork ner in which he has led us forward. This gentleman unites in summer rendezvous in today’s southwestern Wyoming. In his his character, qualifications not always to be found, untiring party were John Kirk Townsend, a physician and ornithologist; prudence and circumspection, with unhesitating bravery and Thomas Nuttall, a botanist; Milton Sublette and his party of perseverance.” twenty trappers; and a small group of Methodist missionaries consisting of minister Jason Lee, his ordained nephew Daniel Lee, laymen Cyrus Shepard and Philip L. Edwards, hired hand Building a Fort Courtney M. Walker, and their herd of cattle. Milton Sublette With a nearly full load of goods and no buyers, Wyeth would soon return to St. Louis because of medical problems deployed his backup plan to build a new trading post far- with his leg, which eventually caused his death in 1837. ther west, then continue his journey to the Columbia River. Unfortunately for Wyeth, his timing became his undoing. Wyeth sent word to numerous Indian tribes to the west to The group arrived at the Ham’s Fork rendezvous a few days bring their furs and hides to the area of the Snake River near after his competitor and Milton’s brother, , the Portneuf River. He loaded up his party and headed west arrived. William convinced the Rocky Mountain Fur Com- to meet them at the fort he would build, hunting buffalo along pany trappers to ignore the contract with Wyeth, and trade the way. He planned to leave his trade goods and some of his with him instead. Sublette paid a $500 forfeiture fee to Wyeth men at his intended fort, then continue his journey to the and even bought some goods from Wyeth. Columbia River. Thomas McKay of the Hudson’s Bay Com- Wyeth wrote numerous letters along the trip, which often pany joined Wyeth on July 9 as they were camped along Bear provide personal information about the trip. The following River near Soda Springs. McKay’s trappers would also join letter describes his feelings after the failure at the rendezvous: the party later, at the fort. The Wyeth party reached the Snake River on July 13. After Hams Fork July 1st 1834 scouting and hunting for a day, on July 14 Wyeth selected a Mr. [M.] G. Sublette suitable site for his trading post. The location he chose was at Dear Sir the northern edge of a very large meadow, six miles upstream I arrived at Rendesvous at the mouth of Sandy on the 17th from the mouth of the Portneuf River. June. Fitzpatric refused to receive the goods. he paid how- Wyeth immediately set to work building a trading post. He ever, the forfeit and the cash advance I made to you this how- named it “Fort Hall” after Henry Hall, the senior partner of ever is no satisfaction to me. I do not accuse you or him of any the company that was backing him. Cottonwood trees were intention of injuring me in this manner when you made the used to build a wooden enclosure 80 feet square and 15 feet contract but I think he has been bribed to sacrifice my inter- high, with two small bastions at opposite corners provid- ests by better offers from your brother. Now Milton, business ing unrestricted views in case of attack. Others of his party is closed between us, but you will find that you have only headed east to the headwaters of the Portneuf River to hunt bound yourself over to receive your supplies at such price as buffalo, returning on Saturday, July 26, fully loaded with may be inflicted and that all that you will ever make in the dried meat. With the fort’s construction well underway and country will go to pay for your goods, you will be kept as you food supplies restocked, the group celebrated their good for- have been a mere slave to catch Beaver for others. tune that evening. I sincerly wish you well and believe had you been here these The following day, Sunday, July 27, Jason Lee conducted a things would not have been done. I hope that your leg is better church service in a grove of cottonwood trees near the river, and that you will yet be able to go whole footed in all respects. the first Protestant sermon conducted west of the Rocky Mountains. Following the service, the celebration continued I am Yr Obt. Servt. NJ. Wyeth with horse racing, in which an accident killed one of McKay’s

jerry eichhorst · building fort hall 7 trappers, a Frenchman named Kanseau. He was buried the Isaac Rose were published in 1884, although their reliability next day with Catholic services conducted by McKay’s Cana- is doubted by many historians. HBC’s employee Henry Hall dians, a Methodist service led by Jason Lee, and an Indian compiled a letterbook, which, along with the Columbia River service, as Kanseau’s family was Indian. Fishing and Trading Company records—including letters, The trappers began to move out the following week. Jason instructions, accounts, and ledgers—are held by the Oregon Lee and his missionary party, whose destination was Fort Historical Society. Vancouver in Oregon, joined them. Along the way, McKay The portion of Wyeth’s journal that includes the building stopped near the mouth of the Boise River at the Snake River of Fort Hall follows: and built a trading post for the Hudson’s Bay Company called 12th. [July] Made W. 3 miles and came upon a small creek Snake Fort. Jason Lee and his party continued on to the which was said to be Portneuf it may possibly be the same Columbia River. water as that we camped on last night but running S. by E Meanwhile, Nathaniel Wyeth and the men with him fin- crossed this and a high range of hills [Mount Putnam] and ished his fort. On August 5 they raised a patchwork-stitched struck a stream which is said to be Ross creek this runs about American flag, making this the first raising of the American W. after 9 miles more camped saw but few Buffaloe today. flag on a flagpole in the future state of Idaho. With the min- 13th. No Buffaloe saw elk on Snake River which we struck isters having gone west, the day became a wild celebration. after 6 miles W. by N. in some small slew saw a great quantity The next day, Wyeth and most of his men started west on of fine trout about 2 lbs. weight their journey to the Columbia, leaving twelve men behind at 14th. Went down the river about 3 miles and found a loca- Fort Hall. They hunted, trapped, traded furs with the Indians, tion for a fort and succeeded and killed a Buffaloe near the spot and built several small log houses within the fort in prepara- 15. Commenced building the fort and sent out 12 men to tion for winter. In geographic terms, when it was completed hunt to be gone 12 days and continued at work on the fort a in 1834, Fort Hall was the second building located along the few days and fell short of provisions and was obliged to knock Oregon Trail west of Independence, Missouri. The first was off in order to obtain food sent out some men for Buffaloe (its name was later change to Fort Laramie) in they returned in two days with plenty. The 12 returned the southeastern Wyoming. It had been built a few months earlier 28th [26th] day at night. On the 26th [27th] a Frenchman than Fort Hall, to shelter men and store the supplies William named Kanseau was killed horse racing and the 27th [28th] Sublette left there on his way to the Ham’s Fork rendezvous. was buried near the fort he belonged to Mr. McKays camp Two years after completing his trading post, Wyeth agreed and his comrades erected a decent tomb for him service for to sell it to the Hudson’s Bay Company (HBC). The Fort Hall him was performed by the Canadians in the Catholic form sale was completed in 1837. Wyeth sustained a financial loss by Mr. Lee in the Protestant form and by the Indians in their of $20,000 for his endeavor. The HBC replaced the wooden form as he had Indian family. he at least was well buried. walls with whitewashed adobe walls, which could be seen 30 Mr. McKay left us and Mr [Jason] Lee and Capt. Stew- from many miles away. art with him 6th. [Aug.] Having done as much as was requisite for safety to the Fort and drank a bale of liquor and named it Fort Diary Accounts Hall in honor of the oldest partner of our concern we left it The Wyeth expedition to Fort Hall was very well documented. and with it Mr. Evans in charge of 11 men and 14 horses and Wyeth recorded his letters and a diary. Phillip Edwards wrote mules and three cows we went down the river S.W. 4 miles a general letter from the Ham’s Fork rendezvous that was first and found a ford crossed and made N.W. 7 miles to the head printed in eastern newspapers in October 1834. Jason Lee, of a spring and camped in all 29 strong. Fort Hall is in Latt. John Kirk Townsend, Cyrus Shepard, and 43deg 14' Long. 113deg 35' wrote journals of the adventure as well. In 1844 Daniel Lee published Ten Years in Oregon, providing a Jason Lee’s original diary account of his visit at Fort Hall is along with his reminiscences of the expedition. The stories of as follows:

8 overland journal · spring 2016 Aerial map of Fort Hall region. Google Earth, adapted by the author.

July 14.—Forded some bad creeks and camped on Snake July 28.—Read the funeral service to all of both companies, River, as it was called here, but on the maps Lewis River, and who appeared very solemn. O that they would remember this, is one of the main branches of the Columbia. that they would think on their latter end. Two Indians from July 15.—Arrived at the place Captain W. had chosen to Capt. M’Kay’s company came to our tent, and told us they build his fort. wished to give us two horses. Suspecting that they intended to July 16.—Twelve men went out to procure and dry meat pursue the same course that the traders say they generally do, for the journey to Wallahwallah, there being no prospect of viz., give a horse and then require more than its value in goods, finding buffalo below [down the Snake]. I told them if they gave us horses we had little to give them in July 26.—The men returned laden with meat. return. They replied that they wanted nothing in return. Fear- Sunday, July 27.—By request of Mr. M’Kay, whose party ing they would be displeased, if we refused, and being in want had now arrived, we repaired to the grove for public wor- of horses, I told them that I would gladly accept their favor, and ship, which was the first we had on the journey. Mr. M’Kay’s accordingly they brought us two fine white horses. Captain company, consisting of Indians, half breeds, and Canadians, M’Kay had told them that we were missionaries, and it was on attended, and many of Capt. W’s. company. All behaved with this account that they presented the horses. In return I gave the utmost decorum. Being unwell I did not preach, but gave them a small present with which they seemed well pleased. a short exhortation. After service two of Mr. M’Kay’s Cana- Thus we were provided for just in time of need, for two of our dians went out for a horse race, and while they were at full horses were nearly worn out, and were able to do nothing after, speed another, attempting to run in with them, came in con- and we were obliged to leave them in the prairie. The name of tact with one of the former, who was thrown from his horse Capt. W’s. fort is Fort Hall, its latitude 43° 14' north. The place and so injured that he knew nothing after and expired before is not pleasant, the sand being frequently driven about by the morning. wind in as large quantities as snow in the east.

jerry eichhorst · building fort hall 9 July 30.—Left Fort Hall with [Capt. Stewart and] Captain preserve them I pray Thee and return them in due season M’K., Captain W., not being yet ready, and we being under that we may again rejoice together in the land of the living— the necessity of pushing on with such rapidity that we should Engaged in finishing my halters — — — not be able to take our cows, we judged it best to leave his Thursday 17th July 1834—At work on my halters but being company. yet weak am able to do but little at once. Br. J. Lee has been out with a small party hunting for the immediate use of the Cyrus Shepard’s diary is filled with praises to God and camp, he has returned unwell having been wet & has caught doubts about his ability to be a successful missionary. His a violent cold. daily prayers were often very Friday 18th July—Br. Lee rewarding to him. Shepard fre- was in much pain and distress quently provided great detail of body through the night about events that occurred. attended with high fever— Most of his Fort Hall account Applied hot water to his feet, follows: etc., after which he gained a Saturday 12th July 1834—Still very little relief but could not journey safe in the care of obtain sleep—is unable to sit One disposing Power—some up today and has much pain in snow on the surrounding back, head & limbs—Finished mountains—passed many my halters and find I am daily excellent springs of pure Fort Hall, 1849 gaining strength for which I water and encamped on Ross’ Sketch from the Official Report of the Howard Stansbury desire to be truly thankful— creek a small chrystal stream Expedition (1849). The trading post (and fort) was established Enjoyed secret prayer unusu- abounding with fine trout of by Nathaniel Wyeth in 1834 along the Snake River. Wyeth ally well this day. located the fort in an area near the river where he knew which W. Lee caught a large Saturday 19th July 1834— wintering buffalo would attract Indians, and thus, trade. mess—Afflicted with severe Courtesy of the author. Rather more unwell but headache. able to attend to the labour . . . devolving upon me—Br. Lee Monday 14th July 1834— recovering slowly—had an Continued our journey and invitation to dine with Mr. in a few hours arrived at McCay [McKay] a gentleman Lewis river a branch of the in the employ of the Hudson’s Columbia and encamped for Bay Company, his camp is a the day—Am yet feeble in little above ours. Brs. J. & W. body—walked out about a mile from camp and found myself Lee took dinner with him—Although an entire stranger to so weak as to be scarcely able to return — — — us till within a few days yet he appears quite friendly to us Tuesday 15th July 1834—Removed about five miles down and our enterprise & promises us any assistance in his power the river to where Capt. W. is going to build a fort—are to hereafter and present assistance of any articles in his posses- tarry here several days. Lat. 43° 14' North. sion that we may be in need of—Several men left camp this Wednesday 16th July Twelve of the men left camp this day day to hunt game for the immediate wants of the camp—the to hunt buffalo and cure the meat for our future journey as we former stock being nearly exhausted. soon leave the buffalo country entirely—They are directed Sabboth 20th July 1834—Capt. W. does not work his men to stay Twelve or fourteen days if they should not succeed this day, the first instance of the kind since landing at Inde- in obtaining a sufficient quantity for our future use—one of pendence—Spent the day in calm retirement in our tent hav- our company (Mr. Walker) is one of the party—O my God ing none to molest or make us afraid—Have not passed so

10 overland journal · spring 2016 quiet a Sabboth for months past. . . . Weather extremely hot & French came together to hear the word of the Lord—Br. L. in the middle of the day—one of the men that went out yes- opened the meeting by reading the Fiftieth Psalm & after- terday returned this evening with the flesh of a large grisley ward the hymn beginning with “This Lord of Sabbath let us bear—Thus the Bountiful Giver of all good things provides praise, etc” which was sung to the tune of exhortation, prayer for us in every extremity — — — & address, followed by J. Lee—Br. L’s remarks were few but Monday 21st July 1834—Afflicted with headache—Our solemn and appropriate. The congregation gave the most food this day consisted of bear meat and excellent fish caught profound and respectful attention, my soul was edified, com- from the river. . . . forted and quickened. . . . Tuesday 22nd July 1834—Engaged in various domestic Monday 28th July 1834—The unfortunate Frenchman duties. . . . Br. Lee much more unwell — — mentioned as having been seriously injured yesterday lin- Wednesday 23 July 1834—. . . Mr. McCay has presented us gered till two o-clock this morning, when his spirit returned a number of pounds of flour say fourteen or fifteen, an article to God who gave it—ever thing was done that could be by so extremely necessary in sickness and this present came too Mr. Mc and others—This day his remains were committed in the time of greatest need as the little which we have been to their mother earth by his companions—being Catholics saving to use in case any of us should be sick is now nearly or they placed a black cross on his heart, made of cloth sewed quite exhausted, having been used to thicken porridge for the upon his shroud—he was buried without a coffin wraped sick which at some times was the only sustenance we could in a buffalo skin over his shroud—By request Br. Lee read take—The flour presented is from wheat grown at Vancouver scriptures and made a prayer at McCays camp and read the on the Columbia river in the Oregon Territory. Thus we are funeral service at his grave after which dust was commited to permitted to eat of the fruit of the land even before arriving dust to await the morning of resurrection. . . . at the place of our destination. . . . Water boils here at a tem- Capt. W. and his men attended the service and general perature of two hundred four degrees—have very warm days solemnity seemed to rest upon the assembly—May all and cool nights—Thermometer over ninety degrees at noon improve this Solemn and awakening Providence to their some days and down to freezing point in the night — —. . . . present and everlasting good—The comrades of the deceased Friday 25th July 1834—Last night while alone on guard have erected an emplacement around his grave and placed a (The horses being shut up in a yard prepared for the purpose, wooden cross over it, he has left an indian wife and three chil- my soul caught new fire by a glimpse of the Divine Glory and dren—Two indians came to our tent and manifested a desire exulted largely in the God of my Salvation. . . . A number of to give each a horse to the mission — the Snake indians called the diggers came to camp this day. Tuesday 27th July 1834—Went fishing with J. & D. Lee They were meanly clad but otherwise appeared as intelligent about two miles down the river—were not very successful as most other indians—. . . . but became quite weary and were glad to make our way back Sabbath 27th July 1834—Sweet day of rest. . . . Retired to the camp—Expect to leave here tomorrow in company about half a mile from camp to a willow grove, offered up with Mr. McCay, Capt. W. being obliged to tarry longer at prayer and praise to the Father of mercies, had a meeting and the Fort. . . . profitable season. . . . Wednesday 30th July 1834 Breakfasted early, collected After tarrying here a space returned to camp and passed our animals and prepared for the journey—The two indi- the remainder of the forenoon in tranquility—mostly ans came and presented their horses, etc.—commenced our engaged in reading—P.M., Dined with Mr. McCay after journey about 10 o’clock A.M. and proceeded Seven or eight which J. Lee by his request held a meeting in the grove near miles and encamped on the Portneffe—Br. L. sick again with his camp and addressed the people from 1st Cor., 10th Ch., sever headache & pain in back and limbs which followed him 31st V — — Felt my soul drawn forth in prayer before the severly most of the night but was somewhat mitigated in the meeting that good might be done in the name of Jesus—At morning. . . . the time appointed about Thirty indians and as many white

jerry eichhorst · building fort hall 11 John Kirk Townsend was trained as a physi- no notion of braving gunpowder, but I did not know whether, cian and pharmacist, and his keen interest in natural history like a dog, if the enemy retreated he would not yet give me a and bird collecting is apparent. Townsend went with the chase; so when I had placed about a hundred yards between hunting party to collect meat for the remainder of the jour- us, I wheeled about and flew, rather than ran, across the plain ney. His journal, with its extensive descriptions of the jour- towards the camp. Several times during this run for life, (as ney, along with wildlife and birds, is much different from the I considered it,) did I fancy that I heard the bear at my heels; typical emigrant journal: and not daring to look over my shoulder to ascertain the fact, I only increased my speed, until the camp was nearly gained, This afternoon [July 23] I observed a large flock of wild geese when, from sheer exhaustion I relaxed my efforts, fell flat passing over; and upon watching them, perceived that they upon the ground, and looked behind me. The whole space alighted about a mile and a half from us, where I knew there between me and the copse was untenanted, and I was forced to acknowledge, with a feeling strongly allied to shame, that my fears alone had represented the bear in chase of me. When I arrived in camp, and told my break-neck adventure I heard a sort of angry growl or grunt directly before to the men, our young companion, Mr. Ashworth, expressed me and instantly after, saw a grizzly bear of the a wish to go and kill the bear, and requested the loan of my largest kind erect himself upon his hind feet within double-barrelled gun for this purpose. This I at first peremp- a dozen yards of me, his savage eyes glaring with torily refused, and the men, several of whom were experi- horrible malignity, his mouth wide open, and his enced hunters, joined me in urging him not to attempt the tremendous paws raised as though ready to descend rash adventure. At length, however, finding him determined upon me. For a moment, I thought my hour had come, on going, and that rather than remain, he would trust to his and that I was fated to die an inglorious death own single gun, I was finally induced to offer him mine, with away from my friends and my kindred a request, (which I had hoped would check his daring spirit,) that he would leave the weapon in a situation where I could readily find it; for after he had made one shot, he would never use a gun again. He seemed to heed our caution and advice but little, and, was a lake. Concluding that a little change of diet might be with a dogged and determined air, took the way across the agreeable, I sallied forth with my gun across the plain in plain to the bushes, which we could see in the distance. I quest of the birds. I soon arrived at a thick copse of willow watched him for some time, until I saw him enter them, and and currant bushes, which skirted the water, and was about then, with a sigh that one so young and talented should be entering, when I heard a sort of angry growl or grunt directly lost from amongst us, and a regret that we did not forcibly before me and instantly after, saw a grizzly bear of the larg- prevent his going, I sat myself down, distressed and melan- est kind erect himself upon his hind feet within a dozen choly. We all listened anxiously to hear the report of the gun; yards of me, his savage eyes glaring with horrible malignity, but no sound reaching our ears, we began to hope that he had his mouth wide open, and his tremendous paws raised as failed in finding the animal, and in about fifteen minutes, to though ready to descend upon me. For a moment, I thought my inexpressible relief, we saw him emerge from the copse, my hour had come, and that I was fated to die an inglorious and bend his steps slowly towards us. When he came in, he death away from my friends and my kindred; but after wait- seemed disappointed, and somewhat angry. He said he had ing a moment in agonizing suspense, and the bear showing searched the bushes in every direction, and although he had no inclination to advance, my lagging courage returned, and found numerous footprints, no bear was to be seen. It is prob- cocking both barrels of my gun, and presenting it as steadily able that when I commenced my retreat in one direction, as my nerves would allow, full at the shaggy breast of the bruin made off in the other, and that although he was willing creature, I retreated slowly backwards. Bruin evidently had to dispute the ground with me, and prevent my passing his

12 overland journal · spring 2016 lair, he was equally willing to back out of an engagement in that danger might be near when they least expected it, and which his fears suggested that he might come off the loser. . . . afforded them an opportunity of showing the promptness On the morning of the 25th, we commenced baling up and alacrity with which they could meet and brave it. our meat in buffalo skins dried for the purpose. Each Our people were all delighted to see us arrive, and I bale contains about a hundred pounds, of which could perceive many a longing and eager gaze a mule carries two; and when we had fin- cast upon the well filled bales, as our mules ished, our twelve longeared friends were swung their little bodies through the loaded. Our limited term of absence is camp. My companion, Mr. N., had now nearly expired, and we are anx- become so exceedingly thin that I ious to return to the fort in order should scarcely have known him; to prepare for the journey to the and upon my expressing surprise lower country. . . . at the great change in his appear- At about 10 o’clock, we left our ance, he heaved a sigh of inanity, pleasant encampment, and bade and remarked that I “would have adieu to the cold spring, the fat been as thin as he if I had lived buffalo, and grizzly bears, and on old Ephraim for two weeks, urging our mules into their fast- and short allowance of that.” I est walk, we jolted along with found, in truth, that the whole our provant towards the fort. . . . camp had been subsisting, dur- We travelled, this day, thirty ing our absence, on little else than miles, and the next afternoon, at two or three grizzly bears which 4 o’clock, arrived at the fort. On the had been killed in the neighborhood; route we met three hunters, whom Cap- and with a complacent glance at my own tain W. had sent to kill game for the camp. rotund and cow-fed person, I wished my poor They informed us that all hands friend better luck for the future. have been for several days on Successful Boston businessman, inventor, and explorer We found Mr. McKay’s com- short allowance, and were very Nathaniel Jarvis Wyeth (1802–1856) founded Fort Hall in pany encamped on the bank anxious for our return. 1834 as a trading post on the Snake River. He soon sold of the river within a few hun- When we came in sight of the it, and from there went to Oregon, again set up a trading dred yards of our tents. It con- post. Unsuccessful once more, he returned to Boston, fort, we gave them a mountain sists of thirty men, thirteen of where he continued living a prosperous life. This portrait salute, each man firing his gun was made ca. 1832. Washington State Historical whom are Indians, Nez Perces, in quick succession. They did not Society. Chinooks and Kayouses with a expect us until to-morrow, and few squaws. The remainder are the firing aroused them instantly. French-Canadians, and half- In a very few minutes, a score of breeds. Their lodges, of which men were armed and mounted, there are several, are of a conical and dashing out to give battle to the advancing Indians, as form, composed of ten long poles, the lower ends of which they thought us. The general supposition was, that their little are pointed and driven into the ground; the upper blunt, and hunting party had been attacked by a band of roving Black- drawn together at the top by thongs. Around these poles, feet, and they made themselves ready for the rescue in a space several dressed buffalo skins, sewed together, are stretched, a of time that did them great credit. hole being left on one side for entrance. It was perhaps “bad medicine,” (to use the mountain These are the kind of lodges universally used by the moun- phrase,) to fire a salute at all, inasmuch as it excited some tain Indians while travelling: they are very comfortable and unnecessary alarm, but it had the good effect to remind them commodious, and a squaw accustomed to it, will erect and

jerry eichhorst · building fort hall 13 14 overland journal · spring 2016 prepare one for the reception of her husband, while he is suitable respect, however much their own notions as to the removing the trapping from his horse. I have seen an expert proper and most acceptable forms of worship, might have Indian woman stretch a lodge in half the time that was been opposed to ours. required by four white men to perform the same operation A meeting for worship in the Rocky mountains is almost with another in the neighborhood. as unusual as the appearance of a herd of buffalo in the settle- At the fort, affairs look prosperous: the stockade is finished; ments. A sermon was perhaps never preached here before; two bastions have been erected, and the work is singularly but for myself, I really enjoyed the whole scene; it possessed good, considering the scarcity of proper building tools. The the charm of novelty, to say nothing of the salutary effect house will now soon be habitable, and the structure can then which I sincerely hope it may produce. be completed at leisure by men who will be left here in charge, Mr. Lee is a great favorite with the men, deservedly so, while the party travels on to its destination, the Columbia. . . . and there are probably few persons to whose preaching they I think I never was more gratified by any exhibition in would have listened with so much complaisance. I have often my life. The humble, subdued, and beseeching looks of the been amused and pleased by Mr. L.’s manner of reproving poor untutored beings who were calling upon their heavenly them for the coarseness and profanity of expression which is father to forgive their sins, and continue his mercies to them, so universal amongst them. The reproof, although decided, and the evident and heart-felt sincerity which characterized clear, and strong, is always characterized by the mildness the whole scene, was truly affecting, and very impressive. and affectionate manner peculiar to the man; and although The next day being the Sabbath, our good missionary, Mr. the good effect of the advice may not be discernible, yet it Jason Lee, was requested to hold a meeting, with which he is always treated with respect, and its utility acknowledged. obligingly complied. A convenient, shady spot was selected In the evening, a fatal accident happened to a Canadian in the forest adjacent, and the greater part of our men, as well belonging to Mr. McKay’s party. He was running his horse, as the whole of Mr. McKay’s company, including the Indi- in company with another, when the animals were met in full ans, attended. The usual forms of the Methodist service, (to career by a third rider, and horses and men were thrown with which Mr. L. is attached,) were gone through, and were fol- great force to the ground. The Canadian was taken up com- lowed by a brief, but excellent and appropriate exhortation pletely senseless, and brought to Mr. McKay’s lodge, where we by that gentleman, The people were remarkably quiet and were all taking supper. I perceived at once that there was little attentive, and the Indians sat upon the ground like statues. chance of his life being saved. He had received an injury of the Although not one of them could understand a word that was head which had evidently caused concussion of the brain. He said, they nevertheless maintained the most strict and deco- was bled copiously, and various local remedies were applied, rous silence, kneeling when the preacher kneeled, and rising but without success; the poor man died early next morning. when he rose, evidently with a view of paying him and us a He was about forty years of age, healthy, active, and shrewd, and very much valued by Mr. McKay as a leader in his absence, and as an interpreter among the Indians of the Columbia. At noon the body was interred. It was wrapped in a piece of opposite: Title page of John Kirk Townsend’s journal, coarse linen, over which was sewed a buffalo robe. The spot Narrative of a Journey Across the Rocky Mountains, to the selected, was about a hundred yards south of the fort, and the Columbia River, and a Visit to the Sandwich Islands, Chili, funeral was attended by the greater part of the men of both &c: With a Scientific Appendix, published in Philadelphia in camps. Mr. Lee officiated in performing the ordinary church 1839. Townsend (1801–1851) was trained as a physician and ceremony, after which a hymn for the repose of the soul of ornithologist; he left his Quaker family in Pennsylvania to travel the departed, was sung by the Canadians present. The grave with botanist Thomas Nuttall on the Wyeth expedition to the Pacific. His highly readable account of that journey (1839, and is surrounded by a neat palisade of willows, with a black cross many later editions), is acclaimed as true adventure writing. erected at the head, on which is carved the name “Casseau.” Courtesy Biodiversity Heritage Library (http:// On the 30th of July, Mr. McKay and his party left us for Fort www.biodiversityheritage.org), public domain. Vancouver, Captain Stewart and our band of missionaries

jerry eichhorst · building fort hall 15 accompanying them. The object of the latter in leaving us, is, Osborne Russell was another of the members that they may have an opportunity of travelling more slowly of Wyeth’s expedition. He was designated to stay behind at than we should do, on account, and for the benefit of the Fort Hall and hunt to provide food for the fort. Inexperienced horned cattle which they are driving to the lower country. as a hunter, he was forced to learn. Russell’s account of the We feel quite sad in the prospect of parting from those with trip west and building of Fort Hall is sparse but sometimes whom we have endured some toil and danger, and who have provides details not found in other accounts. His account, been to some of us as brothers, throughout our tedious jour- considered one of the best journals of a mountain man in the ney; but, if no unforeseen accident occurs, we hope to meet field, continues recording his life as a trapper in the Fort Hall them all again at Walla-Walla, the upper fort on the Colum- area for eight years: bia. As the party rode off, we fired three rounds, which were The next day [July 12] we traveled in a westerly direction promptly answered, and three times three cheers wished the over a rough, mountainous country [Mount Putnam] about travellers success. twenty-five miles, and the day following, after traveling August 5th. At sunrise this morning, the “star-spangled about twenty miles in the same direction, we emerged from banner” was raised on the flag-staff at the fort, and a salute the mountains into the great valley of the Snake River. On fired by the men, who, according to orders, assembled around the 16th we crossed the valley and reached the river in about it. All in camp were then allowed the free and uncontrolled twenty-five miles travel west. Here Mr. Wyeth concluded to use of liquor, and, as usual, the consequence was a scene stop, build a fort and deposit the remainder of his merchan- of rioting, noise, and fighting, during the whole day; some dise, leaving a few men to protect them, and trade with the became so drunk that their senses fled them entirely, and Snake and Bannock Indians. they were therefore harmless; but by far the greater number On the 18th [July] we commenced the fort, which was a were just sufficiently under the influence of the vile trash, to stockade eighty feet square, built of cottonwood trees set on render them in their conduct disgusting and tiger-like. We end, sunk two and one-half feet in the ground and standing had “gouging,” biting, fisticuffing, and “stamping” in the about fifteen feet above, with two bastions eight feet square at most “scientific” perfection; some even fired guns and pistols the opposite angles. On the 4th of August the fort was com- at each other, but these weapons were mostly harmless in the pleted and on the 5th the “Stars and Stripes” were unfurled to unsteady hands which employed them. Such scenes I hope the breeze at sunrise in the center of a savage and uncivilized never to witness again; they are absolutely sickening, and country, over an American trading post. cause us to look upon our species with abhorrence and loath- The next day Mr. Wyeth departed for the mouth of the ing. Night at last came, and cast her mantle over our besotted Columbia River with all the party excepting twelve men camp; the revel was over, and the men retired to their pallets (myself included) who were stationed at the fort. I now began peaceably, but not a few of them will bear palpable evidence to experience the difficulties attending a mountaineer, we of the debauch of the 5th of August. being all raw hands, excepting the man who had charge of The next morning we commenced packing, and at 11 the fort, and a mulatto, the two latter having but very little o’clock bade adieu to “Fort Hall.” Our company now consists experience in hunting game with the rifle, and although the of but thirty men, several Indian women, and one hundred country abounded with game, still it wanted experience to and sixteen horses. We crossed the main Snake or Shoshone kill it. river, at a point about three miles from the fort. It is here as wide as the Missouri at Independence, but, beyond compari- Isaac Rose and his friend, Joe Lewis, joined Wyeth’s party son, clearer and more beautiful. in St. Louis to serve for fifteen months, for which they were Immediately on crossing the river, we entered upon a wide, to receive $250 each. Both Rose and Lewis were also part of sandy plain, thickly covered with wormwood, and early in the group that stayed behind at Fort Hall to trap and hunt. the afternoon, encamped at the head of a delightful spring, Rose’s stories of his adventures during four years in the about ten miles from our starting place. Rocky Mountains were published by James B. Marsh in 1884. A small portion is shared here:

16 overland journal · spring 2016 Fort Hall Historic Marker, placed in 1962 by the National Park Service. Photograph by the author.

jerry eichhorst · building fort hall 17 Nathaniel Wyeth chose the Snake River valley for the site of his new fort because Indians were drawn there by the herds of buffalo that wintered in the region. This rare, late-eighteenth- century engraving of a North American buffalo was made On arriving at Snake river they commenced at once to build during another expedition—this one led by the French-born a fort. This was a big undertaking, as they had no wagons to René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle, exploring down haul their timber. Logs were cut and dragged or carried to the Mississippi River in the late 1600s. Drawn by Fr. Louis the spot needed where they were placed in an upright posi- Hennepin, the buffalo image was published in France in 1698 tion, side by side, and about three feet in the ground. and English in 1699, in A New Discovery of a Vast Country in America. Library of Congress Digital Id cph 3a10787. In this manner a large space was enclosed, and while part Public Domain. of the men were engaged in the outer palisade, others were constructing a log house in the enclosure in which to store the goods. They gave it the name of Fort Hall. As soon as the fort was built and the goods securely housed, Wyeth thought it high time to commence business, and a party of men were at once sent off, under the command of , to trap Beaver in the Blackfoot country. Among them was Rose and Joe Lewis.

18 overland journal · spring 2016 Having been out-foxed by William Sublette at Jones, Larry. Location of Fort Hall. Boise: Idaho State the Ham’s Fork rendezvous of 1834, Nathaniel Wyeth moved Archives, n.d. west and built Fort Hall, a trading post on the Snake River. Lee, Daniel, and Joseph H. Frost. Ten Years in Oregon. New He chose a suitable site a few miles above the mouth of the York: J. Collard, 1844. Portneuf River and a small stockade was constructed. Wyeth “Diary of Rev. Jason Lee” [April 20, 1834–August 7, 1838]. Ed. left twelve men behind to maintain the fort, trap, and hunt. by F. G. Young. Quarterly of the Oregon Historical Society The remainder continued west with Wyeth to the mouth of 17, no. 2 (June 1916): 116–46; 17, no. 3 (September 1916): Columbia River, where they would arrange the shipment of 240–66; and 17, no. 4 (December 1916): 397–430. their furs to the East Coast. Marsh, James B. Four Years in the Rockies: or, The adventures The passages by expedition participants presented here of Isaac P. Rose, of Shenango Township, Lawrence County, provide rich and intriguing details of the creation of Fort Pennsylvania. Columbus, Ohio: Long’s College Book Co. Hall. Although the fort was built as a contingency to the [1884]. failure of Wyeth’s primary plan to supply trade goods at the Russell, Osborne, and Lemuel A. York. Journal of a Trapper: Ham’s Fork rendezvous, Fort Hall became an important trad- Or, Nine Years in the Rocky Mountains, 1834–1843: Being a ing post on the Oregon and California Trails in the years to General Description of the County, Climate, Rivers, Lakes, come. Many an emigrant party stopped there before continu- Mountains, Etc., and a View of the Life Led by a Hunter in ing on, either to Oregon or California. A stone monument Those Regions. [Boise, Idaho]: [Syms–York Co.], 1921. marks the location today. Shepard, Cyrus, and Gerry Gilman. Diary of Cyrus Shepard, March 4, 1834–December 20, 1835. Vancouver, Wash.: Clark County Genealogical Society, 1986. Bibliography Townsend, John Kirk, and Nathaniel J. Wyeth. Narrative Brown, Jennie Broughton, and Susie Boice Trego. Fort Hall of a Journey across the Rocky Mountains to the Columbia on the Oregon Trail: A Historical Study. Caldwell, Idaho: River, and a Visit to the Sandwich Islands, Chili, &c.: With Caxton Printers, 1932. a Scientific Appendix. Philadelphia and Boston: H. Perkins; Cannon, Miles. “Fort Hall on the Saptin River.” The Perkins & Marvin, 1839. Washington Historical Quarterly 7, no. 3 (1916): 217–32. Wyeth, Nathaniel Jarvis. Journal of Captain Nathaniel J. Crowder, David L. (David Lester). Tales of Eastern Idaho. Wyeth’s Expeditions to the : Second Idaho Falls: KID Broadcasting Corp., 1981. Expedition–1834. Online at https://user.xmission.com Eaton, W. Clement. “Nathaniel Wyeth’s Oregon Expeditions.” /~drudy/mtman/html/wyeth2.html. Accessed November Pacific Historical Review 4, no. 2 (1935): 101–13. 27, 2015. Edwards, Philip. “Rocky Mountain Correspondence.” Niles’ Wyeth, Nathaniel J., and Frederic G. Young. The Weekly Register. Fourth Series No. 6, Vol. 9. Baltimore, Md., Correspondence and Journals of Captain Nathaniel J. Wyeth, Oct. 11, 1834; Vol. 47, Whole No. 1, p. 203. 1831–6: A Record of Two Expeditions for the Occupation of the Hardee, Jim. Pierre’s Hole! The fur trade history of Teton Valley, Oregon Country, with Maps, Introduction and Index. Sources Idaho. Pinedale, Wyo.: Museum of the Mountain Man, of the History of Oregon, v. 1, pts. 3–6. Eugene, Ore.: Sublette County Historical Society, 2010. University Press, 1899. Hulbert, Archer Butler, and Dorothy Printup Hulbert. Wyeth, Nathaniel Jarvis. Selected Letters of Nathaniel J. Wyeth, “Lee’s Original Diary, April 28–June 29, 1834.” In The Oregon 1832–1835. Online at https://user.xmission.com/~drudy/ crusade: across land and sea to Oregon. [Colorado Springs]: mtman/html/wyeth ltr.html#21. Accessed November 27, Stewart Commission of Colorado College and the Denver 2015.  Public Library, 1935. Jepson, Willis Linn. “The Overland Journey of Thomas Nuttall.”Madroño 2, no. 17 (1934): 143–47.

jerry eichhorst · building fort hall 19 Suggestedby jerry Conventioneichhorst Reading

Many emigrant diaries mention interactions with Indians along the trails in Idaho. These interactions have a wide range: passing groups along the trail; to Indians visiting their camps looking for food, offering fish for trade, and offering to trade for white children; to thievery, attacks, and killings. Many dia- rists had no encounters with Indians across Idaho, yet tribal histories tell us that all the wagon trains were watched from hilltops in the distance. Although there were several Indian attacks on wagon trains crossing Idaho, in the great majority of encounters, the Indians were friendly and helpful to the emigrants.

General Idaho History and Biography Brosnan, Cornelius J. Jason Lee, Prophet of the New Oregon. New York: Macmillan, 1932. Brown, Jennie Broughton, and Susie Boice Trego. Fort Hall on the Oregon First-Person Accounts trail: A Historical Study. Caldwell, Hunt, Wilson Price, and Hoyt C. Idaho: Caxton Printers, 1932. Franchere, The Overland Diary Carney, Ellen. Historic Soda Springs: of Wilson Price Hunt. [Ashland]: Oasis on the Oregon Trail. Wayan, Oregon Book Society, 1973. Idaho: Traildust Pub. Co., 1993. Stuart, Robert, Wilson Price Hunt, Crowder, David L. (David Lester). Philip Ashton Rollins, and William Tales of Eastern Idaho. Idaho Falls: Robertson Coe. The Discovery of KID Broadcasting Corp., 1981. the Oregon Trail; Robert Stuart’s Online at https://archive.org/ Narratives of His Overland Trip details/talesofeasternid00crow. Eastward from Astoria in 1812–13 . . . Gittins, H. Leigh,Idaho’s Gold Road. to Which Is Added: An Account of Moscow: University Press of Idaho, the Tonquin’s Voyage . . . Fort Astoria 1986. . . . , and Wilson Price Hunt’s Diary of Hardee, Jim. Pierre’s Hole! The Fur his Overland Trip Westward. . . . New Trade History of Teton Valley, Idaho. York: C. Scribner’s Sons, 1935. Pinedale, Wyo.: Museum of the Stuart, Robert, and Philip Ashton Mountain Man, Sublette County Rollins. The Discovery of the Oregon Historical Society, 2010. Trail: Robert Stuart’s Narratives Hope, Arthur C. Hudspeth Cutoff: of His Overland Trip Eastward Idaho’s Legacy of Wheels. Idaho from Astoria in 1812–13. Lincoln: Falls, Idaho: Bookshelf Bindery & University of Nebraska Press, 1995. Press, 1990.

20 overland journal · spring 2016 Shoshone-Bannock Indians Bolen, Robert David. American Indian Tribes of Idaho. [Nampa, Idaho?]: Pub. Co., 2009. Brimlow, George Francis. The Bannock Indian War of 1878. Caldwell, Idaho: Caxton Printers, 1938. Idaho Centennial Commission. Idaho Indians: Tribal Histories. Boise: Idaho Centennial Commission, Horne, J. Theo.Along Early Western 1990 Trails. Salt Lake City: The Author, Madsen, Brigham D. The Bannock of 1992. Idaho. Moscow: University of Idaho Potucek, Martin. Idaho’s Historic Press, 1996. Trails: from Lewis & Clark to Morgan, Dale L., Richard L. Railroads. Caldwell, Idaho: Caxton Saunders, and Gregory E. Smoak. Press, 2003. Shoshonean Peoples and the Hutchison, Daniel J., and Larry R. Overland Trails: Frontiers of the Jones. Emigrant Trails of Southern Utah Superintendency of Indian Idaho. Idaho: Bureau of Land Affairs, 1849–1869. Logan: Utah Management and Idaho State State University Press, 2007. Historical Society, 1993. Online at http://digitalcommons. Reed, Mary E., and Keith Petersen. usu.edu/usupress_pubs/74. Harriman: From Railroad Ranch Stewart, Omer Call. Indians of the to State Park: A History of Idaho’s Great Basin: A Critical Bibliography. Harriman State Park. Boise: Idaho Bloomington: Published for the Dept. of Parks and Recreation, 1991. Newberry Library [by] Indiana Robertson, Frank C. Fort Hall: University Press, 1982. Thomas Moran (1837–1926), Great Gateway to the Oregon Country. Walker, Deward E. Indians of Idaho. Falls of Snake River, Idaho Territory, 1876, chromolithograph on paper, New York: Hastings House, 1963. Moscow: University Press of Idaho, 8⅜ × 12½ in. L. Prang & Co, and Thomas Wight, Jermy Benton. Frederick W. 1978. Moran. Retrieved from the Library Lander and the Lander Trail. ———, Myths of Idaho Indians. of Congress, https://www.loc Bedford, Wyo.: Star Valley Llama, Moscow: University Press of Idaho, .gov/item/95502111. (Accessed 1993. 1980. March 14, 2016.) Public domain.

jerry eichhorst · suggested convention reading 21 The indefatigable Ezra Meeker appeared before the House of Representatives Committee on Coinage, Weights, and Measures in April 1926, urging the government to issue coins to raise money to install monuments along the Oregon Trail. (The effort was very successful.) Meeker is shown here on April 3, 1926, with left( ) Representative Addison T. Smith of Idaho and (right) Dr. David G. Wylie of New York, Secretary of the Oregon Trail Association. National Photo Company Collection (Library of Congress), LC-DIG-npcc-15576. Public domain.

22 overland journal · spring 2016 Speech at Old Fort Hall, Idaho

by Ezra Meeker July 27, 1921

Introduction · Wednesday, July 27, 1921, marked the eighty-seventh anniversary of Method- ist missionary Jason Lee conducting the first public worship service on the Overland Trail delivered by an American. To commemorate that occasion, Ezra Manning Meeker, standing beside waters flowing into the Pacific, spoke at the old Fort Hall site. In his speech, Meeker praised Jason Lee, and claimed Fort Hall as the most significant historical site along the Oregon Trail. Meeker’s original handwritten notecards of this speech are held by the Idaho State Archives in Boise.1 The last card is signed by Meeker. Selected excerpts of his speech follow. Jerry Eichhorst

1 Meeker, Ezra Manning, “Speech at Old Fort Hall,” August 27, 1921, MSS 2, Folder 0197, Idaho State Historical Society, Boise, Idaho. Ezra Meeker (1830–1928), an Oregon Trail pioneer, was a founder of the Oregon Trail Memorial Association (OTMA), organized in 1926. OTMA is considered the “spiritual predecessor” of the Oregon-California Trails Association. In 2015 Meeker was named the first honoree in OCTA’s Emigrant Trails Hall of Fame. See Dennis Larsen, “The Emigrant Trails Hall of Fame: Ezra Manning Meeker,” Overland Journal 33, no. 4 (Winter 2015–16): 166–67. ezra meeker · speech at old fort hall, idaho 23 n the lapse of years as like with since been supplemented by further exploration resulting in the greater part of the Oregon Trail the land- a treasured collection in the possession of Mrs. Dr. Minnie Howard of Pocatello. marks pointing to the site of Ft Hall had The most contributing and convincing relics consisting of Idisappeared, while others were forgotten and broken English decorated china, deeply rusted scrap iron; passed out of memory as the pioneers one by one an old clay pipe stem, a broken hinge, an ox shoe, a broken stone grate, a broken beef bone, a quantity of lime all two feet passed on to their reward. So, when I drove with or more under accumulated debris. The site of the old black- my ox team into Pocatello in May of 1906, on my smith shop with its tell tale story of clinkers within the walls is way over the Oregon Trail searching for suit- there. A temporary wooden post was set which subsequently has been replaced by a stone marker and so, you my friends, able spots upon which to erect monuments. I need have no doubts but this assemblage is on the memorable naturally first queried to ascertain the site of Fort spot, where we have met to commemorate the memory of Hall, which I then and do now consider the most the great event, the preaching of the first sermon west of the Rocky Mountains by Jason Lee. . . . important historic point on the great trail. . . . A people that fails to record its history falls short of fulfill- I made a third trip over the Oregon trail in 1916, this time ing a destiny of highest civilization. I am led to express these in an automobile and on August 29 under the auspices and thoughts upon realizing that eighty seven years has passed since the enactment of this great historic event and as yet no tangible plan adopted to secure a recognition of the charac- ters participating in this drama of life indelibly writ by hero- A people that fails to record its history ism, suffering and death. . . . falls short of fulfilling a destiny Fort Hall was an integral part of the Oregon Trail, the great- of highest civilization. est trail of history, that has contributed largely to the develop- ment of the nation by safeguarding its Pacific possession and that is destined to play a greater role in the future of prepared- ness for defense. It is destined to become the great thorough- fare from river to river from the great Missouri to the greater guidance of Dr. W. [William] Howard and Dr. Minnie How- Columbia, from the Mississippi valley to the Pacific Ocean. ard with the interpreter Joe Rainey as guide we unmistak- I do not expect to live to see it, but there are people within ably found the exact spot where the old fort had once reared the sound of my voice that will, when the whole will be paved, its formidable wall; Rainey had taken us straight to the old when the passage of the trackless car will compete with the site; we need not rely on his recollection. Excavations made railroads both for passengers and freight. But time forbids at once developed numerous relics of the old fort, which has pursuing this interesting subject further. 

24 overland journal · spring 2016 Diaries ac ross I daho Curiosities on the Oregon Trail in Southeast Idaho

by jerry eichhorst

Pyramid Spring, with man-made geyser. The original Pyramid Spring is just south of the man-made geyser. Many diaries described it as a pyramid about twenty feet high, with water coming out of the top. Its shape is the result of a build-up of mineral deposits in the water. The man-made geyser was capped in 1937. Photograph by the author.

jerry eichhorst · diaries across idaho 25 esearching historical emigrant diaries is a fascinating passion for me. A great deal of information can be learned about the people, trips, sites, and activities of the era by studying their accounts of journeys across the country. RHundreds of thousands of people loaded their essential pos- at Thomas Fork, a branch of the Bear River flowing from the sessions into wagons and trudged across the plains to build a north. Crossing the Sheep Creek Hills, it descended the larg- new life in Oregon and California in the middle of the nine- est of which is commonly called “Big Hill,” before again reach- teenth century. Many of these emigrants kept journals of their ing the Bear River valley. It followed the Bear River northwest trip that fortunately are available to study and enjoy today. through a lush valley with many small streams flowing from Some are filled with detailed descriptions of sites and events the mountains to the river. As the Bear River turned west to they encountered on their westward journey. Others simply make a large bend around Sheep Rock and run south to Salt noted the miles traveled and the camping conditions—cross- Lake, the emigrants encountered the Soda Springs, an area of ing the country in a few pages, so to speak. Women tended to geothermal activity complete with effervescent springs of hot add emotion and sensitivity in their writings, yet some men and cold water flowing from mounds of sediment. The most rambled on with great detail and opinions to produce exten- famous of these springs is Steamboat Spring, now under the sive accounts. I find that all are interesting to read. waters of Alexander Reservoir. Much has been written about the mass migration of people A few miles west, the trail turned northwest up the Port- across the country to the Pacific Coast. Books supplement neuf River valley, another broad valley of lush grasses. It was an interesting journal, providing insight into the emigrant, at this point that the Hudspeth Cutoff was first traveled in his family history, and the route that he traveled. Groupings 1849. Farther north up the valley, the route turned west over a of journals by year or by gender have proven to be popular. saddle on Mount Putnam before descending along Ross Fork Countless histories of the trails have drawn upon these jour- to the Snake River plain. The Lander Road joined the trail in nals as sources to document the great migration, often using this section after its creation in 1858. The route then crossed short diary quotes to accentuate a point. Still other books fol- the lush Snake River bottoms to the Hudson’s Bay Company low the trails from their origins across the country, augment- outpost of Fort Hall.2 This route was also followed by thou- ing descriptions of the route with maps and selected journal sands of emigrants who followed the Raft River route on their entries. westward journey to California. Little has been published, however, that analyzes large Compiling emigrant journals of the sites along this route numbers of journals in detail by a specific location. Previ- provides fascinating descriptions of the sites, people, and ously I compiled more than fifty diaries by location to iden- events across this stretch of trail. In addition, a careful, tify the true route of the North Alternate Oregon Trail across detailed analysis has yielded a number of new findings that southwestern Idaho.1 In preparation for the upcoming Fort shed light on the Oregon Trail in southeastern Idaho. Hall OCTA convention, I have attempted to compile several hundred journals across southeastern Idaho—a monumental endeavor. This effort, however, has yielded interesting new dis- Sulphur Springs coveries in the hundreds of diaries I have been able to process. Five miles east of the town of Soda Springs and less than three miles northeast of the Oregon Trail route, is an area known as Sulphur Springs. Consisting of effervescent springs The Oregon Trail in Southeast Idaho in a muddy basin, the area has the strong smell of sulphur The Oregon Trail followed the Bear River valley in western from dozens of small springs bubbling up. Sulphur Springs is Wyoming before entering what is now southeastern Idaho

2 Fort Hall Trading Post, built in 1834 by Nathaniel Wyeth, was sold to the 1 See Jerry Eichhorst, “Pieces to the Puzzle: Rediscovering Idaho’s North Hudson’s Bay Company three years later. See Jerry Eichhorst’s fuller his- Alternate Oregon Trail,” Overland Journal 31, no. 2 (Summer 2011): 48–67. tory of Fort Hall elsewhere in this issue.

26 overland journal · spring 2016 Map 1. Map of Southeast Idaho Overland Trail Routes. Google Earth, adapted by the author. included in the Oregon Trail Bear Lake Scenic Byway web- site with a statement that it “was noted in numerous early explorer and emigrant diaries,” and showing an interpretive traveling on the Oregon Trail down Bear River valley, I was sign quoting Frederick Adolph Wislizenus, who traveled in unable to find an account which describes a visit to these Sul- the area in 1839.3 Wislizenus traveled west to Fort Hall, then phur Springs. Only one account, Eleazar Stillman Ingalls, turned around and returned east. A study of his diary, how- even mentions the area, referring to a sulphur lake while he ever, reveals that Wislizenus never saw the Sulphur Springs. was camped near Steamboat Spring: “There are also Sulphur The quote used on the interpretive sign is taken from his diary Springs, and springs containing other minerals, and five entry for July 18 at Steamboat Spring along the Bear River. miles back in the hills is a Sulphur Lake.”4 Yet, I distinctly After researching more than 550 diaries of emigrants 4 Judge Eleazer Stillman Ingalls, Journal of a Trip to California by the Over- land Route Across the Plains in 1850–51 (Waukegan, Ill.: Tobey and Co., 3 http://www.seidaho.org/scenic_byway.htm, accessed on March 6, 2016. Printers, 1852, reprinted Fairfield, Wash.: Ye Galleon Press, 1979). Digi- Frederick Adolph Wislizenus, A Journey to the Rocky Mountains in the Year tal copy online at http://archive.org/details/journalofatripto31780gut. 1839 (St. Louis: Missouri Historical Society, 1912). Accessed on January 28, 2013.

jerry eichhorst · diaries across idaho 27 Map 2. An early U.S.G.S. map was used as the basis for this plaque, which stands at Hooper Spring, near the town of Soda Springs, Idaho. This detail includes a section of the Bear River and the early Soda Springs townsite. Photograph by the author.

28 overland journal · spring 2016 remember having come across one account some time ago of of a mixture & found that it effervesced with both, but the a man who visited the Sulphur Springs in the evening. Maybe effervescence was greater with the Acid, than with the Soda. someday I will find it again. Drunk freely of the water, found it very pleasant. There were It is not surprising to me that the site was not noted more five or six other springs near Bear River which we did not often. There was no need to travel far from the trail to find visit, in consequence of loosing sight of part of our company good camping sites since the Bear River valley itself was lush. & being obliged to hasten back. The ground in every direc- The aroma of sulphur is not overwhelming today and thus tion was covered with lava. Gathered several fine specimens. cannot be sensed at a distance. With the prevailing winds We desired more time to visit other curiosities there but was blowing away from the trail, it is unlikely that many travelers unable to, for camp was moving from us continually. Rode in ever noticed the smell of sulphur. all thirty miles, & found them encamped under a bluff cov- ered with black basalt.6 Several clusters of springs were concentrated in the area Narcissa Whitman, 1836 and are mentioned in many diaries. As Map 1 shows, the Soda Narcissa Whitman traveled west in 1836 with her husband, Springs were along the Oregon Trail route and were easily Marcus, and three other missionary couples. The wives are visible to travelers as they moved along the Bear River. Yet often referred to as the “first white women to cross the Rock- Narcissa Whitman traveled ten miles off the trail to visit more ies.”5 In her diary, Narcissa described visiting the Soda Springs: soda springs. July 30th Went today ten miles off our route with Husband I believe that Narcissa and Marcus Whitman and the oth- Mr. McLeod & a few others, to visit Soda Springs. Was much ers traveled up Soda Creek to Hooper Spring. Since Hooper delighted with the view of the wonders of Nature we saw Spring is about five miles from Bear River by way of Soda there. The first object of curiosity we came to were several Creek, going to the spring and returning would account for white mounds on the top of which were small springs of soda. Narcissa’s statement “Went today ten miles off our route with These mounds were covered with a crustation made from the Husband.” The “several white mounds” are likely the pyramid evaporation of the water which is continually running in mound area noted as “Pyramid Spr” on the survey map to small quantities from these springs. The next object we saw the southwest of the small community that existed when the was a little singular. It consisted of an opening like a crater map was created. This pyramid area lies close to the creek. It about three feet in diameter, by the side of a small stream. remains today, located immediately to the south of the man- On some rocks a little below in the opening were dead flies made geyser in the town of Soda Springs, Idaho, as shown in & birds in abundance which had approached so near the cra- Map 2. ter, as to be choked with the gas which it constantly emits. Continuing up Soda Creek, the Whitman party “passed On putting the face down, the breath is stoped instantly, & a through a grove of juniper & pitch pine trees & a small dis- low rumbling noise like the roaring of fire is heard beneath. tance from them came to a large spring of soda water. Clear as Having satisfied our curiosity here we passed through a crystal, effervescing continually.” The Whitmans would have grove of juniper & pitch pine trees, & a small distance from seen trees on the mountain to their left as they neared Hooper them came to a large spring of soda water. Clear as crystal, Spring. It is possible that in 1836 those trees came down to effervescing continually. It appeared of great depth. At a con- the creek. A short distance north of the small community on siderable distance below the surface, there were two white Map 3 is Hooper Spring, a clear, effervescent spring which substances, in appearance like lumps of Soda in a concrete constantly bubbles. The spring has been modernized over state. We took with us some soda & Acid to try the effect time with a concrete surround and pavilion being built. Just as Narcissa “Drunk freely of the water, found it very pleas- ant,”7 today, people still fill containers with the water. 5 Narcissa Whitman, Letters and Journals of Narcissa Whitman, in Clif- ford M. Drury, ed., First White Women Over the Rockies: Diaries, Letters, and Biographical Sketches of the Six Women of the Oregon Mission Who Made the Overland Journey in 1836 and 1838 (Glendale, Calif.: Arthur H. Clark 6 Ibid., 1:76–77. Company, 1963–1966), 76–77. 7 Ibid., July 30, 1836, 1:77.

jerry eichhorst · diaries across idaho 29 The numerous springs near Bear River, which the mission- This is indeed a curiosity. aries did not have time to explore on their return trip, are Sarah Gilbert White Smith, July 24, 183811 likely those located to the west of the mouth of Soda Creek. Of all the curiosities that I ever Saw this Spring Surpasses all them. A Great Curiosity Sydney Smith, August 29, 183912 Just as Narcissa Whitman’s did, many of the emigrant diaries Some places on Bear river exhibit great natural curiosities. used the term “curiosity” in describing the Soda Springs and Fr. Pierre-Jean De Smet, August 10, 184113 Steamboat Spring. The number was so great that it appears out of proportion. Thinking that usage of the word may have The greatest Natural Curiosity I ever saw. come from popular guidebooks using the term, I searched Medorem Crawford, August 11, 184214 fifteen trail guidebooks that described Soda Springs. I found only one that used the term. In 1841, on his journey to Cali- A number of springs . . . which cannot fail to excite the curi- fornia, John Bidwell wrote, “This is a noted place in the moun- osity and interest of the traveler. These singular natural curi- tains and is considered a great curiosity.”8 Bidwell’s journal osities are known among the trappers as the Beer and Soda was later published as one of the first guidebooks to Califor- springs. A few hundred yards below these, is another remark- nia. The route he followed to Soda Springs became a primary able curiosity, called the Steamboat spring. route of the Oregon Trail. I was surprised to find that none Rufus Sage, 1843, reminiscence15 of the other guidebooks I examined used the term “curios- ity” when describing Soda Springs, yet travelers’ accounts fre- The soda springs are a curiosity but I was very much disap- quently did. pointed from reports. Emigrants often wrote interesting descriptions of Soda John Howell, August 5, 184516 Springs and the nearby Steamboat Spring. Some accounts But the greatest curiosity is the “Steam Boiler Spring” hard by are extensive, filling several pages of their typescript diaries. the river. . . Here are Petrifactions and geological curiosities, More than 25 percent of those accounts that were analyzed evidences of Volcanic nature are plenty here. used the term “curiosity” in their writing. A small sampling of Peter Decker, June 25, 184917 “curiosity” descriptions used in accounts written before 1850 follows: 11 Sarah Gilbert White Smith, Diary of Sarah White Smith, First White Women A few yards from our camp is a curious spring called the over the Rockies (Glendale, Calif.: The Arthur H. Clark Company, 1966), Soda Spring. 3:61–125, quoted on 99. 12 Sydney Smith, To The Rockies and Oregon, 1839–1842, ed. LeRoy R. Hafen Jason Lee, July 8, 18349 (Glendale, Calif.: The Arthur H. Clark Company, 1955), 67–93, quoted on 80–81. The continual ebulition which the gass in escaping causes 13 Pierre-Jean Smet, Hiram M. Chittenden, and Alfred T. Richardson,Life, renders them an object of much curiosity Letters and Travels of Father Pierre-Jean De Smet, S.J., 1801–1873: Missionary Labors and Adventures Among the Wild Tribes of the North American Indians, Cyrus Shepard, July 8, 183410 Embracing Minute Description of Their Manners, Customs, Games, Modes of Warfare and Torture, Legends, Traditions, Etc., All from Personal Observations Made During Many Thousand Miles of Travel, with Sketches of the Country from St. Louis to Puget Sound and the Altrabasca (New York: F. P. Harper, 1905), 302. 8 John Bidwell, August 10, 1841, A Journey to California with Observations 14 Medorem Crawford, Journal of Medorem Crawford: An Account of His Trip about the Country, Climate and the Route to this Country (ca. 1842; San Fran- across the Plains with the Oregon Pioneers of 1842, in Sources of the History of cisco: Nash, 1937), 13. Oregon, Vol. 1, no. 1 (Eugene, Ore.: Star Job Office, 1897). 9 Jason Lee, July 8, 1834, “Diary of Rev. Jason Lee” [April 20, 1834–August 7, 15 Rufus Sage, Rocky Mountain Life, or Startling Scenes and Perilous Adven- 1838], ed. by F. G. Young, The Quarterly of the Oregon Historical Society 17, tures in the Far West (Boston: Wentworth & Company, 1858), n.p. no. 2 (June 1916): 116–46; 17, no. 3 (September 1916): 240–66; and 17, no. 4 16 John Ewing Howell, “Diary of an Emigrant of 1845,” Washington Historical (December 1916): 397–430. Quarterly 1, no. 3 (April 1907): 138–58, quoted on 147. 10 Cyrus Shepard, and Gerry Gilman, Diary of Cyrus Shepard, March 4, 1834– 17 Peter Decker, The Diaries of Peter Decker: Overland to California in 1849 and December 20, 1835 (Vancouver, Wash.: Clark County Genealogical Society, Life in the Mines, 1850–1851 (Georgetown, Calif.: The Talisman Press, 1966), 1986), 40. quoted on 107.

30 overland journal · spring 2016 Not until July 1845, when emigrants began traveling along the east side of the Portneuf River valley did they come upon, sample its water, and describe Soda Pool, shown here. The pool is still fed by a small spring that emerges from an outcropping of basalt rocks. Photograph by the author.

jerry eichhorst · diaries across idaho 31 we arrived at the famous Bear & Steamboat Springs & real curiosities they are Elisha Douglas Perkins, August 8, 184918

Today about noon we arrived at a cluster of springs some of them of a very curious natuere. This [Steamboat Spring] is the greatest natural curiosity that I have ever seen. Alexander Ramsay, July 12, 184919

This [Steamboat Spring] is the greatest curiosity of the kind I ever saw. Samuel Murray Stover, July 26, 184920

Portneuf River Valley Routes West of the Soda Springs about five miles, the Oregon Trail turned north around the point of a hill across Bear River from Sheep Rock. The current definition of the trail shows that it followed the east side of the valley for about eight miles before heading northwest to cross the Portneuf River near the pres- ent community of Chesterfield. The route then followed the river upstream. According to emigrant diaries, however, this is not the original route. In August 1841, Joseph Williams crossed the Portneuf valley and tried to follow the Portneuf River downstream through the canyon to the west. This proved to be impossible This plaque at Soda Springs explains how “the only man-made for wagons so he returned to the valley and turned upstream geyser in the world” came into being in 1937. Photograph by the following day. He wrote, the author.

We turned off from the Bear River and struck over on to the waters of Snake River, Next morning we started down one of its branches [Portneuf River], but found that we could not get along with the wagons. We therefore turned back again, and James Willis Nesmith described the route across the val- stayed near where we encamped the night before. The next ley to the Portneuf River: “Leave Bear River; traveled twenty day we continued on up [upstream to the north], and fell over miles over to a creek running into the Snake River, by the on Snake River.21 name of Portneuf [River].”22 Overton Johnson stated that “At this point, we left the 18 Elisha Douglas Perkins, Gold Rush Diary: Being the Journal of Elisha Douglass [Bear] River, and bore off to the right, across the valley, which Perkins on the Overland Trail in the Spring and Summer of 1849, ed. Thomas D. is about ten miles wide. . . . We passed, on the left, a large, Clark (Lexington: University of Kentucky Press, 1967), quoted on 91. 19 Alexander Ramsay, “Alexander Ramsay’s Gold Rush Diary,” Pacific His- hollow mound, the crater of an extinguished Volcano.”23 If torical Review 18, no. 4 (November 1949): 437–68, quoted on 453–54. 20 Samuel Murray Stover, Diary of Samuel Murray Stover Enroute to California 22 James W. Nesmith, August 25, 1843, “Diary of the Emigration of 1843,” The 1849 (Elizabethtown, Tenn.: H. M. Folsom, 1939), quoted on 18. Quarterly of the Oregon Historical Society 7, no. 4 (1906): 329–59. 21 Joseph Williams, August 1841, Narrative of a Tour from the State of Indi- 23 Overton Johnson and William H. Winter, September 7, 1843, “Route ana to the Oregon Territory in the Years 1841–2 [1843] (1843; reprinted in Across the Rocky Mountains with a Description of Oregon and Califor- LeRoy R. and Ann W. Hafen, eds., To the Rockies and Oregon, 1839–1842, nia,” The Quarterly of the Oregon Historical Society, 1906, v. 7:1, 62–104; 7:2, Glendale, Calif.: The Arthur H. Clark Company, 1955). 163–210; 7:3, 291–327.

32 overland journal · spring 2016 Johnson had turned to the right and immediately gone up the company found and employed him at the springs but we had east side of the valley, he would not have been close to the not proceeded far before we found the Greenwoods were volcanic crater. Traveling west would have placed him on the conducting Teatherows company by the same route and as north of the crater after one and a half miles of travel. they made a plain road for us to follow, our pilot returned. As they traveled north up the Portneuf River valley, early We have not yet got into the old road but we have thus far had travelers did not mention crossing several small streams or an easy level way and from the relative bearings of the two seeing other features, such as the Soda Pool, that later travel- roads, we must cut off at least 9 or 10 miles. We had an excel- ers on the eastside route would mention. lent camp with plenty of grass and water. These Greenwoods A new route, which turned sharply to the right and followed are an Old man and Three sons whom he has raised in the along the base of the hills on the east side of the valley, was Indian country. They are well posted on the route.25 created in July 1845. Carlos W. Shane reached Sheep Rock on Solomon Tetherow, whom Field referred to above, was July 26, 1845. He noted the road going west across the valley, captain of one of the wagon trains that left St. Joseph in the but he turned to the right instead. Shane appears to have been spring of 1845 on their way to Oregon. This would not be the the first to travel this route: last time Tetherow used a guide to follow a new shortcut. He Here we leave the waters of Bear River. . . . On the opposite later followed Stephen Meek across central Oregon in their side of the river are the Sheep Bluffs [Sheep Rock], and on attempt to find a shorter route to the Willamette valley. this side to our right are the Bear River Mountains. Instead of taking the road leading directly forward and leaving the B. R. Mountains, we hugged them close, turning to the right. Caleb Greenwood was an early trapper in the Made about 8 miles and nooned. . . . No one had gone this west, working for numerous trapping companies for nearly rout before us and so we had the best of it.24 twenty years. At the age of sixty-three, he married and had five children. Greenwood guided the first wagon train in 1844 Two days later, James Field’s company hired a guide to lead on what would become known as the Sublette Cutoff and over them on a new route that was supposed to have saved nine or the Sierra mountains to California. He would have ten miles. They left the regular road “not far from Soda Springs been eighty-two years old when he guided Tetherow’s com- to take a nearer cut.” After traveling only ten miles from Soda pany from Soda Springs. A few years later, he took part in the Springs, they camped that evening at what appears to have rescue of the Donner party in the Sierra. been Soda Pool, thus indicating that they took the new route A few days after James Field took the new route to the east, on the east side of the Portneuf River valley. James Field wrote: Joel Palmer wrote of the two roads across the valley and his Mon July 28 Went about 10 miles today leaving Bear River choice to turn north. on our left and camping near a spring [Soda Pool] slightly Five miles brought us to where the road leaves the river, and impregnated with soda. About a mile from camp [Soda bears northward through a valley. The river bears to the south- Springs] we passed a spring the water of which tasted more ward and empties its waters into Big Salt Lake. The range of like soda water than any I have tasted of. The trail from the mountains bounding the north side of the river here comes States to California, parts from the Oregon road at Bear to within a half mile of it, then bears off to the north, leav- River, down which it follows while the Oregon Road strikes ing a valley of about seven or eight miles in width between over onto Snake River near Fort Hall. it and a range coming from Lewis river, and extending south Tues July 29. . . . I omitted mentioning yesterday that we towards Salt Lake. The range bounding the south side of the had left the regular road again not far from the Soda Springs river comes abruptly to the stream at this point, presenting to take a nearer cut under the pilotage of a Frenchman. Our huge and cumbrous masses of basaltic rock, but it is generally covered with heavy timber. At this point two trails are found:

24 Carlos W. Shane, July 26, 1845, “Oregon, Being an Account of a Journey to the Territory of Oregon, with Some Account of the Soil and Climate,” in 25 James Field Jr., July 29, 1845, “Crossing the Plains Diary,” Typescript, MSS Journal of the Presbyterian Historical Society (1943–1961) 21, no. 1, 1–33. 520, Portland: Oregon Historical Society.

jerry eichhorst · diaries across idaho 33 one striking west, across the valley, to the opposite side; the Soda Pool other, which is the nearest and best, follows around the point, Four miles north of Sheep Rock, on the east side of the Port- hugging the base of the mountain for several miles.26 neuf River valley a spring bubbles out of a small cave at the base of a basalt wall. The clear water flows a few yards into an The original Oregon Trail route from Sheep Rock went oval pool before spilling into a larger meadow pool. I stum- west across the valley to the Portneuf River before turning bled across this spring many years ago when exploring the north to follow the river upstream. This route was apparently valley in search of remnants of the Oregon Trail. The water used until 1845. This route has been extensively farmed for tasted good, not nearly as strong or effervescent as the water at many years, and I have found no trail remnants. Hooper Spring, seven and one-half miles over the mountains After the new route on the east side of the valley was estab- to the east. I showed the spring to trail friends and to an Ore- lished in July 1845, it soon became the only road traveled gon Trail expert, but all were previously unaware of the loca- after leaving Sheep Rock until the opening of the Hudspeth tion and did not consider it an Oregon Trail site. I found the spring interesting, but considered it insignificant at the time. One can still see the spring, Soda Pool, and immediately below, a small meadow reservoir that sometimes dries up on I was born in Omaha and lived with the edges and leaves a salt residue. The Soda Pool has been my grandparents for a couple of years changed because of ranching through the years. A cattle or who were just up on the hill above where sheep dip and fence were built near the pool, indicating the the Mormon Trail Center is now. We moved to area was apparently once heavily used. Only recently has Raytown, Missouri, a suburb of Kansas City, studying the compilation of diaries by location turned up a when I was five and lived about a mile number of them that clearly identify this spring as a site often from Blue Ridge Boulevard, which was the visited along the Oregon Trail. A sampling of these diary old route to Westport and crossing the accounts follows. Carlos W. Shane’s description of the Soda Missouri River. Lived there until sixth grade Pool is one of the best that I have yet found. As noted ear- when we moved to Phoenix. Grew up there lier, Shane appears to have been with the first wagon train to and still have family there. Now I am in Boise, travel the east side of the valley: still on the Oregon Trail. It must be fate. Here we concluded to correll. Hard by our camp is the Soda jerry eichhorst Pool, a body of soda water 18 feet long, 10 feet wide and about 3 feet deep. It is very clear and beautiful, but not so strong tasted as those at the [Bear] river. Just below it is a small Salt Spring, which formed a light crust of salt as it ran off from the spring.27 Other diary accounts note that the soda pool is close to the Cutoff four years later. This route includes a number of trail trail. It appears that there must have been multiple paths for remnants remaining today. Many diaries described the Soda the trail in this area, as some accounts describe the Soda Pool Pool, springs, and hills along the route that are visible today. on the left side of the road, some on the right. As shown in My compilations include no other accounts of emigrants who Map 6, possible trail remnants appear close to the pool above appeared to travel the original route after 1845, as well as no and below the basalt bluff. other accounts that reference the choice of routes at Sheep Joel Palmer also provides a good description of Soda Pool: Rock until the opening of the Hudspeth Cutoff in 1849. Two and one half miles distant, and immediately beneath a cliff of rocks by the road side, is to be found a soda pool. 26 Joel Palmer, Reuben Gold Thwaites, and Henry Harmon Spalding, August 5, 1845, Journal of Travels over the Rocky Mountains to the Mouth of the Columbia River: Made During the Years 1845 and 1846 (Cleveland, Ohio: Arthur H. Clark Company, 1906). 27 Carlos W. Shane, July 26, 1845, “Oregon,” 20.

34 overland journal · spring 2016 A little spring of cool soda water runs out at the base of the rock, and a basin of eight or ten yards in extent, and about two and one half feet high has been formed. Inside of this, is a pool of water;—the material composing the bank around, is of a white color.28 Other diarists include details of traveling past Soda Pool:

Advanced twenty-one miles and camped on a small stream [Portneuf River], good camp. In four miles travel we came to an excellent soda water just to left of road. Dr. Benjamin Cory, July 15, 184729

. . . Two miles farther we leave the Bear River which turns south. We make about 5 miles and stop near another spring of mineral water that we use for drinking. It is not as strong as the previous ones. Rt. rev. A. m. a. Blanchet, August 3, 184730

Geared up and rolled out down Bear River some 6 miles where we left it, turned the spur of a mountain and came to another soda spring, not of equal celebrity of those we had left, but very good. richard m. may, august 4, 184731

Ten miles [from Soda Springs] brought us to another spring of the same sort. It was on the right of the road coming from a high bluff. This is some times called Soda Pool. The water from the spring runs into a basin which has formed by the Emigrants who left the original route turned northwest across crystilisation of the water at its edges. It is 25 ft. in diameter & Bear River from Sheep Rock to travel up the east side of the the wall around is 2 ft. Portneuf River valley. They would have encountered volcanic rifts in the earth such as this one, as well as “curiosities” such vincent geiger and wakeman bryarly, july 11, 184932 as Soda Pool. Some emigrants believed this area was close to In two or three miles from our camp the road left Bear River. Hades and wanted to leave immediately. Photograph by After a few miles travel we came to another Beer Springs. It the author.

28 Joe Palmer, August 5, 1845, Journal of Travels, 83. 29 Dr. Benjamin Cory, July 15, 1847, Manuscript Journal, 1847, Society of Cali- did not boil like the others but was rather sour. It tasted like fornia Pioneers, San Francisco, 4–75. the bottled soda of St. Louis shops. 30 Rt. Rev. Augustine Magloire Alexander Blanchet, Edward J. Kowrach, and israel foote hale, july 20, 184933 J. B. A. Brouillet, August 3, 1847, Journal of a Catholic bishop on the Oregon trail: the overland crossing of the Rt. Rev. A.M.A. Blanchet, Bishop of Walla 2½ ms brought us to Soda Pool on the right handside of the Walla, from Montreal to Oregon Territory, March 23, 1847 to January 23, 1851. Blackrobe buries Whitmans (Fairfield, Wash.: Ye Galleon Press, 1978). road This is a basin the sides of which are about 2 feet above 31 Richard M. May, August 4, 1848, A Sketch of a Migrating Family to Califor- the surface of the ground and composed of rock of the Soda nia in 1848 (Fairfield, Wash.: Ye Galleon Press, 1991), 34. 32 Wakeman Bryarly, Vincent Geiger, and David Morris Potter, July 11, 1849, formation. It is about 15 feet long and 9 feet wide a constant Trail to California: The Overland Journal of Vincent Geiger and Wakeman Bryarly (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1945). 33 Israel Foote Hale, July 20, 1849, 93.

jerry eichhorst · diaries across idaho 35 supply of water flows up at the foot of a perpendicular ledge of rock close by which keeps the basin nearly full. john brown, july 28, 185234 CONTESTING Clearly, the “curious” Soda Pool was visited by many emi- THE BORDERLANDS grants traveling the east side of the Portneuf River valley. Interviews on the Early Southwest Their diary accounts describe it much as it still is. It remains By Deborah Lawrence an interesting site to visit today. and Jon Lawrence

Finding and compiling emigrant diaries by a $24.95 PAPERBACK · 280 PAGES · 26 B&W ILLUS. particular location takes a great deal of work. But it often Conflict and cooperation have shaped the American yields interesting insights into the journeys. My compilation Southwest since prehistoric times. To explore the region’s of diaries that describe traveling through the Soda Springs complex past, this book uses an unusual multidisciplinary area of southeast Idaho helped identify the original route of approach. In interviews with ten experts, Deborah and Jon Lawrence discuss subjects ranging from warfare the Oregon Trail in the Portneuf River valley and the Soda among the earliest ancestral Puebloans to intermarriage Pool site. It also helped clarify the route Narcissa Whitman and peonage among Spanish settlers and the Indians they encountered. took while sight-seeing near Soda Springs, and revealed the frequent use of the term “curiosity” in emigrant accounts that describe Soda and Steamboat Springs.

THE UNIVERSITY OF OKLAHOMA IS AN EQUAL OPPORTUNITY INSTITUTION. WWW.OU.EDU/EOO

Additional References and Bibliography Diaries and Journals Whitman, Narcissa Prentiss, Marcus Whitman, and Henry Harmon Overland JournalTRAIL Spring 2016.indd 1 REVELATIONS1/22/16 9:07 AMSpalding. A Journey across the Plains in 1836: Journal of Mrs. Marcus Whitman [and] Letters Written. Portland, Ore.: A. Anderson & Co., printers and lithographers, 1893. Williams, Joseph. In To the Rockies and Oregon, 1839–1842; With Diaries and Accounts by Sidney Smith, Amos Cook, Joseph Holman, E. Willard Wagons to the Willamette Smith, Francis Fletcher, Joseph Williams, Obadiah Oakley, Robert Captain Levi Scott and the South- Shortess [and] T. J. Farnham, eds. Hafen, LeRoy R., and Ann W. ern Route to Oregon, 1844–1847 Hafen. Glendale, Calif.: Arthur H. Clark Company, 1955. Levi Scott and James Layton Collins Edited by Stafford J. Hazelett Books and Other Sources Levi Scott’s previously unpub- Hutchison, Daniel J., and Larry R. Jones. Emigrant Trails of Southern lished autobiography describes Idaho. [Idaho?]: Bureau of Land Management and Idaho State His- Jesse Applegate’s 1846 expedition torical Society, 1993. in search of a southern Oregon Waldman, Carl, and Alan Wexler. “Greenwood, Caleb.” Encyclopedia of Paperback • $29.95 Trail route as well as Scott’s , Vol. 1. New York: Facts On File, Inc., 2004. ISBN 978-0-87422-333-0 Exploration American harrowing adventure 6" x 9" • 320 pages History Online. Facts On File, Inc. Online at http://www.fofweb accompanying its first wagon .com/activelink2.asp?ItemID=WE52&iPin=EEXI408&SingleReco train west. rd=True. Accessed on February 13, 2016. 

Available at bookstores, online at wsupress.wsu.edu, or by phone at 800-354-7360. 34 John Brown, July 28, 1852, A Journal of Travels across the Plains, 1852, Type- script, MSS 2363, Oregon Historical Society, Portland.

36 overland journal · spring 2016 reviews from the trail Books for review should be sent to the editor with all bibliographical details and ordering information: Overland Journal, P.O. Box 265, Tracy, ca 95378

Books for review should be sent to the editor with all bibliographical details and ordering information: Overland Journal, P.O. Box 265, Tracy, ca 95378 reviews from the trail

et’s start with credentials. David Big- Harold Schindler. The book concludes with L ler’s business career culminated as a selected bibliography of David’s books, director of public affairs for U.S. Steel. His articles, and awards. involvement in the celebration of West- Bigler’s approach to history has always ern history has been constant. A native of been iconoclastic. The history of Utah, and Provo, Utah, he is a descendant of a number of the Mormons, has long been skewed to the of notable Mormon ancestors (though no extremes. On the one hand are faith-promot- longer a Mormon himself). David actively ing biographies and celebratory accounts pursued research and writing following his of the long-suffering and eventually trium- retirement from business. He has published phant pioneers. On the other are vilifying seven books and numerous articles on early condemnations and reactionary exposés. Utah, California, and Western history. Until recently it was difficult to find a middle He is a Fellow and Honorary Life Mem- ground. David Bigler has attempted (and ber, Utah State Historical Society; a former succeeded) in separating himself from the director, Utah Board of State History and fortified positions of historical adversaries, Confessions of a Friends of the Marriott Library at University and instead looked at and reinterpreted the Revisionist Historian: of Utah; a charter member and first president facts left to us in the documentary record. David L. Bigler on the of the Utah Westerners; and a past president In doing honest historical work in a Mormons and the West of the Oregon-California Trails Association. straightforward manner, David was called Edited by Will Bagley And, I’m proud to say, a valued friend. I was out as a “revisionist historian” by a senior With an Appreciation by Polly Aird privileged to edit and publish several of his Mormon scholar some years ago. No com- Salt Lake City: Tanner Trust Fund, 2015. books while with the Arthur H. Clark Com- 286 pp., photographs, maps, notes; pany and the University of Oklahoma Press. selected bibliography, index. I am biased in writing this review. I admit to “If ever there was a revisionist ISBN 13978-0-692-37120-6. also being friends with the editor, and with historian, I’m it.” Hardcover in dust jacket, 6 9. $29.95. the author of the Appreciation that serves to × open the work. However, I strongly advise Reviewed by Robert Clark. that not deter you from reading and learning pliment was implied. David, however, from this excellent collection of essays. assumed the mantle with pride and humor. Editor Will Bagley has gathered eighteen “If ever there was a revisionist historian, I’m of David’s shorter works and conveniently it,” he replied. And, he continued, “if ever a organized them chronologically to present chapter of our nation’s history needed revis- the sweep of Great Basin history from 1846 ing, it is this one.” to the turn of the twentieth century. In addi- The conflict between a theocratic rule tion to this broad survey, distilled into eas- and democracy, between non-Mormons and ily consumed textual treatments on specific those faithful to Brigham Young, between themes, the book offers an introduction to the United States government and a rebel- the Lincoln Highway in Utah, an appre- lious territory, is a tale both fascinating and ciation of Jerald and Sandra Tanner, and a enlightening. The sweep of events and their lovely tribute to the late journalist/historian often unappreciated but momentous impact

book reviews 37 on the history of the West needs telling and and possible rates of travel, carefully pars- retelling: the Mormon Battalion’s unique ing every entry to establish a detailed route, and laudatory role in the Mexican War in starting in the Carson Valley. Stine con- the Southwest and California, the role of the cludes that Walker’s party crossed from the Mormons in the Gold Rush and the great Carson drainage, into the headwaters of the tide of immigration that followed, the wide- North Mokelumne River, to finally exit the spread impact of the Mormons on Indian Sierra through Stanislaus Canyon. affairs throughout the Far West, the open- Stine interrupts his tracing of the Walker ing of the Overland Trail to the military, the route with “excursions,” short essays on such stagecoach, and the Pony Express. diverse topics as the Holocene ice age, Bonne- This is history that shaped who and what ville as spy, and the pace of horseback parties. we are. David Bigler is one of its best narra- He also includes a very informative appendix tors. Bagley modestly understates the qual- on the publishing history of Leonard’s Nar- ity of his writing: “crisp, lively prose, with rative. His lengthy footnotes are often small its sprightly transitions and wry asides.” The monographs in themselves, usefully gather- influence of his work is only beginning to be ing material from a variety of sources. felt. Our understanding of Western settle- Stine’s account of Walker’s journey east ment in the nineteenth century has been to rejoin Bonneville is less convincing. He changed by David Bigler, and a new stan- seems unfamiliar with either Walker’s inter- dard set. view published in March 1860 in the Visalia Buy this book. It belongs on the shelf of Weekly Delta or the examination of this route every library, and every Western historian in the 1990s by Bill Horst. According to Horst, worth his or her salt.  Walker had joined the crowd of prospectors heading for the mining excitement around Mono Lake. Most of the men intended to or more than a century, readers of west- cross the Sierra through the gap we know as Fern history have been enthralled by Narrative of the Adventures of Zenas Leonard, an account of a fur trapper’s adventures in a rut nut might spend the 1830s, a manuscript combining elements of field notes, diary, and recollections. Of two or three happy weeks particular interest to historians is the por- in and about the Sierra tion recording a trip to California led by Joseph R. Walker. Walker had come to the Rocky Mountains Walker Pass. Walker told the Visalia reporter as part of Captain ’s he would take the route he used in 1834 and fur trading and trapping enterprise, and in subsequent years, farther north, passing the the summer of 1833 he set out to explore the Sierra crest “opposite Owens Lake.” way to California. Zenas Leonard, whose Without this evidence, Stine places Walk- A Way across the Mountains: trapping forays had been unfortunate and er’s first camp east of the Sierra at about lati- Joseph Walker’s 1833 unprofitable, joined Walker as secretary. tude 35° 38' north (near present-day Inyokern), Trans-Sierra Passage Numerous investigators have attempted rather than latitude 36° 16' north (Olancha), a and the Myth of to establish Walker’s exact route over the distance equivalent to three days’ travel. This Yosemite’s Discovery using Leonard’s Narrative calls into question Stine’s time table of Walk- By Scott Stine as a guide. All have been constrained by a er’s progress through the Owens Valley, and Norman: The Arthur H. Clark Company, popular “fact”: that Walker had passed near his identification of landmarks. University of Oklahoma Press, 2015. Yosemite Valley. Now Scott Stine, closely So the puzzle lingers. With A Way Across 317 pp., with photos, maps, illustrations, following Leonard’s journal, credibly chal- the Mountains in hand, and a dog-eared copy appendices, index. ISBN 978-0-87062-432-2. lenges the “myth of Yosemite’s discovery.” He of Leonard’s Narrative, a rut nut might Hardbound, 7½ × 10 inches, $39.95. depends upon the dates Leonard recorded, spend two or three happy weeks in and Reviewed by Martha Voght. descriptions of landforms and vegetation, about the Sierra. 

38 OVERLAND journal · spring 2016 ohn Thompson was ten years old when differentiate from endnote numbers were Jhis family emigrated from to larger. America in 1837. Soon after gold was dis- The book would also have benefited from covered in California, Snowshoe sought his editing to reduce repetition and awkward fortune in the Golden State. Over the years, wording that strings quotes together. Some Thompson worked as a farmer, rancher, of the maps are too small to be useful, even guide, trader, Indian agent and politician, with a powerful magnifying glass. In addition but is best known for reliably carrying the to several maps, the book also includes nearly mail over the mountains between Placer- sixty pages of plaques, monuments, and dedi- ville, California, and Genoa, Nevada. More cation events commemorating Thompson. notably, he made that trek on longboard This is certain: by the time one finishes skis he built himself. Unfamiliar with the this book, readers will know Sierra is a plural wooden slats strapped to his feet, people Spanish noun. The author emphasizes this called them “snowshoes,” providing Thomp- by inserting “[sic]” wherever another writer son with the now familiar moniker. has used “Sierras” in a source or quote. John A. “Snowshoe” Thompson, Author Frank Tortorich, well known to Mountaineer and historian Francis P. Far- Pioneer Mail Carrier Overland Trail enthusiasts, is conversant quhar (1887–1974), who would concur with of the Sierra about the American West in the mid-1800s, the author's careful usage, nonetheless con- By Frank Tortorich the period in which the events surrounding ceded that the plural form is “so frequently Greybull, Wyo.: Pronghorn Press, 2015. the life of John Thompson occurred. Tor- found in the very best works of literature 304 pp., with illustrations, notes, torich used myriad primary sources to com- and science that it would perhaps be pedan- appendices, bibliography, index. pile and separate the facts from the many tic to deny their admissibility. It becomes, ISBN 978-1-941052-10-5. Paper, $24.95. fictions written about Snowshoe. The result therefore, a matter of preference.” Reviewed by Jim Hardee. is a detailed examination of Thompson’s life. With Anglicized pronunciations adopted Having backpacked throughout the moun- for so many place names of Spanish origin tains of northern California, this reviewer throughout California, this reviewer finds it anticipated verification of several tales heard useless to quibble about Spanish grammar around campfires about Snowshoe’s esca- when talking about the Sierra/Sierras. The the extraordinary story of pades. Allegedly, Thompson once carried Spanish word sierra means “range of moun- needles and a kerosene lamp’s glass chimney tains,” and the Sierra Nevada contains many Snowshoe Thompson will surely to Widow Franklin so she could continue her ranges: the Ritter, the Sherman, the Incon- intrigue those who pick it up winter sewing, and fiddler Richard Cosser solable, the Carson, the Cathedral, etc. Thus supposedly got new strings packed in over Sierras also seems grammatically correct. the snow. The story was told that Snowshoe Having lived in California for nearly forty carried the mail from Cisco to Meadow Lake years, this reviewer will lovingly refer to the City during the severe winter of 1867–68, Sierra Nevada Mountains as the High Sier- when three thousand people were forced ras—once a rebel, always a rebel. to winter there under thirty feet of snow. Nevertheless, readers curious about the These anecdotes were not included in the history of California, Nevada, and the West book, leaving this reviewer to wonder if such in general during the 1850–70 Gold Rush era reports were merely legend, and ignored. and beyond will likely find interest in this The author employed a nonconforming book. There is enough background about the combination of both footnotes and end- U.S. Postal Service that those inquisitive notes in this book. Brief source citations, as about the back story of mail delivery will typical, can be found at the back of the book, undoubtedly discover new information in saving casual readers from distraction. Tortorich’s work. With 342 pages that Immediate explanations and/or compli- include 37 illustrations, footnotes, several mentary text is conveniently inserted at the appendices, endnotes, a bibliography, and an bottom of appropriate pages. This unique index, the extraordinary story of Snowshoe approach works fairly well but would have Thompson will surely intrigue those who been improved if the footnote icons used to pick it up. 

book reviews 39 HillHouse W Hug Me Animals of the West

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The National Frontier Trails Museum in Independence, Missouri brings the pioneer experience on the trails to life. The only museum in the nation certified to interpret the Lewis & Clark, Santa Fe, Oregon, California and Mormon Pioneer trails, the National Frontier Trails Museum offers:

• A unique collection of original artifacts and special exhibits • Firsthand written accounts, travel diaries and journals • Interactive displays, audio guides and gallery walks • Children’s programs and activities • A robust research library • A gift store with the region’s largest selection of trails books and merchandise

Pack your provisions, circle the wagons and saddle up for a visit to the National Frontier Trails Museum where the West welcomes you, the journey begins and your adventure awaits.

318 W. Pacific • Independence, MO 64050 • www.FrontierTrailsMuseum.org by david j. welch

Looking West Mapping and Trail Inventory Projects

common misconception is that the emigrant trails have been mapped thoroughly and that there is little left to be done.

In fact, little has been mapped at the length of the Overland Trail, including resources, including a series of pho- Alevel prescribed by OCTA’s Mapping all routes and cutoffs, is more than ten tographs from one or more observa- Emigrant Trails (MET) Manual. The thousand miles, the size of the overall tion points. most comprehensive maps were com- mapping project becomes apparent. We 3. An evaluation of the trial setting pleted by the National Park Service at should be selective and target segments (TIP3). Is the setting evocative of the a scale of 1:100,000 (one inch on the that contain surviving, high-quality emigrant’s experience? map representing 100,000 inches on trail. A Trail Inventory Project (TIP) 4. A USGS 1:24,000-scale map of the the ground), but this scale cannot be is a means of surveying resources to trail in each section using Terrain regarded as definitive with regards determine where priority for MET sur- Navigator Pro software. to the trail’s actual location. The late veys should be placed. 5. Entry of all of the above into a Gregory Franzwa’s maps use 1:50,000- A TIP includes the following: Microsoft Access TIP database. scale county maps. When the data from 1. A survey (Form TIP1) of each Once completed, the database per- these maps is plotted on 1:24,000-scale township, range, and section contain- mits generation of summary reports maps, conflicts with the route as it ing a trail segment (typically about identifying those sections appropriate would have been dictated by topogra- one and a half miles). A standard for a MET-level survey and those that phy are obvious. For example, ridges or form is used to record the character may be ignored due to the level of devel- ravines not obvious on a 1:100,000 map of the section and the classification opment that has altered that section of may appear on 1:24,000 scale maps. of the trail within. However, the sur- the trail. A TIP covering the entire Ore- Mapping as defined in the MET man- vey does not record data at the level gon Trail in Oregon has recently been ual is a time-consuming task. Typically, defined by the MET Manual. Clas- completed. It was found that about 18 a workable project area is defined by a sifications are aggregated over the percent of more than 591 sections con- single USGS 1:24,000-scale quadran- section. tain Class 1 or 2 trail and Class I setting. gle. This includes five to ten miles of 2. A survey (TIP2) of sites within TIP surveys in Oregon were con- trail. When we consider that the total the section that contain trail-related ducted by four teams that covered four

david j. welch · looking west 41 separate lengths of the Oregon Trail: roads with supplemental information The Pendleton survey team gathered Snake River crossings to Farewell from aerial photos. Forms and the data- at Echo Meadows. (Left to right) Bend, Farewell Bend to Deadman Pass, base are available from the Northwest Brian Runyan, Ray Egan, Roger Blair, Deadman Pass to The Dalles, and the Chapter’s project for projects by other Susan Doyle, John Cannella (NPS), and Dalles to Oregon City via the Barlow chapters. Chuck Hornbuckle. Photograph by Road. The work was conducted over At the 2016 Fort Hall convention, I Dave Welch. inset: An Oregon TIP. two years. will be presenting a paper on the Ore- The survey teams are a great way to gon TIP and how it could be applied to introduce new OCTA members to the the Idaho chapter’s trail areas. I hope physical trail. Survey skills are basic you will be able to attend the conven- (observing, photographing, research, tion and my presentation. Each chapter computer data entry) and do not can benefit in many ways from a TIP. demand a high level of physical fit-  ness. Surveys are often conducted from

42 overland journal · spring 2016 letters to the editor

Dear Marlene, My copy (of Winter 15/16) arrived yesterday [March 4] and I read the entire article, which looks great. I noted only one significant problem: somehow the two footnote to Twiss’s comment I sent in the December update disappeared. They should be: Footnote 11. Thomas Twiss, in Annual Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, 1856 (Serial 875), 12, 87, 99. Footnote 12. Ibid., 100–101. Might be nice to put them in the pdf version. Again, thanks. Will Will, I’m sorry for the omission. The notes have been corrected in the pdf on our website. Thank you again. Marlene

Dear Editor: In July 2011, I was in Wyoming, assisting my brother and his wife on their hike along the Continental Divide Trail. With a few days off between trail heads, I visited the National Trails Interpretive Center at Casper and then followed the Oregon Trail route of my 1846 and 1852 ancestors to South Pass. I encountered a broken, two-wheeled, covered wagon or cart a short distance west of the South Pass monuments with Pacific Springs in view. Having traveled in intermittent thunderstorms that afternoon, I waited a few minutes for the clouds to break so I might get good light for a photograph. The wind continued as the sun broke through and made a double rainbow over the wagon and its bright American flag. I took my photos and then I continued on my journey. [See next page, bottom photo.] I returned to the area the next day in full sunshine and light breezes. The wagon was still there. As I was leaving, two men with a pickup and flatbed trailer pulled up. I met the driver, Nick Buck, and learned that he was crossing the Oregon Trail with his brother in their covered wagon and cart pulled by a team of mules. If I was told the name of the other man, I did not record it in my journal entry for the day, and assumed it was Nick’s brother. I helped the two men get the cart onto the trailer. I sent a copy of the photo to an e-mail address that Nick gave me and heard nothing more. In 2015, I saw announcements about Rinker Buck’s book, The Oregon Trail: A New American Journey, describing the journey he took with his brother across the Oregon Trail. I planned to meet him at Powell’s Books in Portland, near where I live. I wanted to give him a printed copy of the photo of the cart with the rainbow, in exchange for his signature. I was committed to a survey of the Meek Cutoff Trail which was scheduled for the week before Buck’s appearance at Powell’s. Circumstances required the survey to be postponed, and it was rescheduled for the same time as Buck’s visit. I figured my opportunity to meet the author had passed. At the OCTA Convention at South last September, I talked with some folks who had met the Bucks and who had read Rinker’s book. TheOverland Journal (Fall 2015) published a review by Bill Martin that compelled me to read it. I discovered by reading the book that Rinker Buck was not the second man I met at South Pass, and I suspect he had never heard of me nor seen my photo. In the book, Rinker commented several times on the coincidences that kept occurring, as if the hand of God were somehow bringing people to assist the brothers at crucial moments on their journey. I had two of those inci- dents with the Buck wagon: the first with the storm, wind, and double rainbow; and the second having driven back there on a different errand and being in the right place with the vital equipment that was eventually required to recover the wagon without more damage. I think the book is well worth the time to read and compare with the diaries and reminiscences of the nineteenth- hcentury travelers over the same country. It is still a fantastic experience for those of us who get off the paved road and walk in our ancestors’ footsteps. Sincerely, Stafford Hazelett Editor, Wagons to the Willamette: Captain Levi Scott and the Southern Route to Oregon, 1844–47 (Washington State University Press, 2015)  SunDAY Spend your Labor Day Weekend in Marshall County! Sept. 4, 2016

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