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For decades, Marseille trailed an unsavory reputation as a dirty, chaotic city practically synonymous with the French Connection. But this 2,600-year-old metropolis has been cleaning up its act and is suddenly stylish— yet has lost none of its soul. By Amy Serafin Terraces at the newly renovated Sofitel Hotel offer sparkling views of the Vieux Port. Cosmopolitan Marseille feels more like a collection of villages than a major metropolis. Clockwise from top left: The ethnically diverse Cours Julien neighborhood; a fisherman reeling in his nets; an aerial view of the picturesque Panier; a North African restaurant in Cours Julien; the Capucins market, known for its Mediterranean specialties. rest of France,” explains François Tonneau, journalist at the local newspaper La Provence. That attitude started to change following the 1995 election of the current mayor, Jean-Claude Gaudin. Born and bred in Marseille, Gaudin is also a member of the Senate and close to the movers and shakers in Paris. He has used his office to garner state and regional support for local projects and to attract private invest- ment, convincing companies to stay while encouraging new ones to move in, notably hi-tech industries such as telecommunications. Visitors get a sense of this new Marseille the moment they arrive at the Saint Charles train station. Dating from the 19th century, it has been renovated and expanded, becoming a sleek and airy termi- , nus for the TGV Med that links Paris to this sun-kissed city just in TGV the hurtles past white time for lunch. When the line was inaugurated in 2001, the impact rock and scrubby greenery beneath an was immediate: The distance between the two cities felt like a day impossibly blue sky, enters a tunnel under trip, and residents of both started jumping on the train without a the mountains and rockets out the other second thought. At the same time, low-cost airlines profiting from Europe’s Open end to a vision of the sparkling blue Skies treaty linked Marseille to northern Europe for the price of a Mediterranean and the crazy patchwork bowl of bouillabaisse, and a new terminal for those flights, MP2, of rooftops that is Marseille. opened at the end of 2006. Simultaneously, city tourism officials started courting the cruise ship business, increasing passenger traffic Massalia, as the Greeks called it, has all from 19,000 in the mid 1990s to 440,000 today. the gritty charm of a port city, and a Latin All of these factors have helped boost the number of visitors from 2.7 one to boot. Cradled between the moun- million to 4 million during the past decade. Construction is under way to add 1,600 hotel rooms to a city that was unprepared for such sudden tains and the Med, it’s the country’s popularity. In a sign of the times, the number of four-star rooms will second-largest metropolis, a sprawling double, the Sofitel has just spent €7 million on a luxurious makeover, beast with a surface area two and a half and in 2011, the city is slated to get its first palace hotel, set in the historic Hôtel Dieu overlooking the Vieux Port. times that of Paris but a population of fewer than a million. Through- Never known as a gastronomic capital, Marseille now boasts a out the 19th and early 20th centuries, it was the gateway to the French burgeoning restaurant scene, attracting visitors with young, creative colonial empire, booming with maritime trade and industrial growth. chefs such as Arnaud de Grammont at Le Café des Epices as well as But the loss of France’s colonies and the activity they generated established names such as Gérald Passédat, who inherited Le Petit ushered in decades of economic decline. Absorbing massive immigra- Nice from his father and grandfather. This year, Passédat unveiled a tion from the former North African colonies put an enormous strain stunning renovation of his seaside restaurant—and became the only on the city, which was then hit by the 1970s oil shocks and ensuing Michelin three-star in Provence. recession. Marseille became plagued by corruption and mismanage- All of this has taken place against the backdrop of Euroméditer- ment, and by the 1980s, unemployment was a dizzying 25 percent. ranée, the largest urban renovation project in Europe. Launched That figure now stands at 12 percent, a reversal emblematic of the in 1995, it has involved clearing out decrepit and abandoned areas dramatic changes that have swept over this city in recent years. Many to make way for new offices, residences and other buildings while observers attribute the turnabout to sheer political will, a decision by renovating structures such as the Saint Charles station. The current the powers that be that enough was enough. phase, by far the most exciting, is revolutionizing the waterfront, “Marseille used to have a very insular mentality, cut off from the creating a whole new skyline for a city that never really had one. 34 FRANCE • SUMMER 2008 FRANCE • SUMMER 2008 35 In the industrial neighborhood called La Joliette, a 33-story office Rich or for Everybody”) was formed in 2000 to tower by architecture star Zaha Hadid is rising up in ultracontempo- protect the most vulnerable residents rary glory around concrete pillars that swoon inward to create a struc- poor, it is from the collateral damage of gentri- ture resembling a glass-and-steel corset. When it is completed next striking fication. One of their challenges has year, it will be home to the shipping company CMA CGM. In archi- how many been the rue de la République, a Second tectural circles, Marseille has become a coveted client, as evidenced people Empire avenue whose Haussmann-style by the major names that have signed on to rebuild it—Jean Nouvel, buildings had turned black from neglect. Rudy Ricciotti, Kengo Kuma and Massimiliano Fuksas. International from all Now, a new tramline runs down the companies—the Compass Group, IBM, DHL, Expedia—are already walks of street, passing by freshly cleaned façades poised to move into these trophy addresses. life claim and trendy shops such as Sephora and Touring the site, Anthony Abihssira from Euroméditerranée’s H&M. When this rehabilitation started communications department makes a sweeping gesture toward an they would a few years ago, developers (including enormous vacant lot with a few parked cars and a highway behind leave the French subsidiary of an American it and proclaims, “This will be the Terraces du Port.” Within a year Marseille investment fund) pressured impover- or two the wasteland will be a glittering shopping mall complex with for nothing ished tenants to move out. a promenade for bikes and pedestrians, the highway partially buried But the association fought back, and underground. Nearby, an old grain silo will be reborn as a concert hall. in the hundreds of residents were eventually A cinema multiplex with a flexible Gore-Tex roof will also rise up, world. relocated elsewhere. “We have nothing designed by Massimiliano Fuksas to resemble the silhouette of dol- against cleaning up the city,” says Michel phins leaping at the water’s surface. And local-boy-done-good Rudy Guillon, one of the association’s founding Ricciotti has designed the new national museum for European and members, “but that’s no reason to chase away the poor.” He claims Mediterranean civilizations, a modern cube with a lacy concrete façade that due to their efforts, expulsions have stopped and the city is start- that will be linked to the centuries-old Fort Saint-Jean. ing to include public housing as part of redevelopment efforts. But, François Jalinot, managing director of Euroméditerranée, explains he says, citizens must remain vigilant. that there is a “virtuous” aspect to these projects, given that the water- Rich or poor, it is striking how many people from all walks of front was long covered with derelict warehouses. “We’re rebuilding the life claim they would leave Marseille for nothing in the world. With city rather than expanding into undeveloped areas. We’re cleaning up its fractured geography, it takes a while for visitors to grasp this im- pollution, creating more jobs and services from daycare to schools, and mense hodgepodge of 111 villages. At the northernmost reaches of its setting up a good transportation network to reduce the need for cars.” 35 miles of coastline is picturesque L’Estaque, where Cézanne lived Indeed, the brand-spanking-new tramway and painted and the homegrown director Robert Guédiguian set the glides by here looking as proud as the Little Miles of dramatic charming movie Marius et Jeanette. At the southernmost end are the Engine That Could. An environmentally coastline and a calanques, wild rocky inlets where the mountains plunge into the sea, friendly high school boasts an industrial-chic Mediterranean dotted with hiking paths and waterside cafés. In the heart of the city climate combine façade made of shipping containers. Next to to give Marseille is the Vieux Port, a breathtakingly beautiful postcard scene still dotted it, a residential development includes high- an enviable qual- with fishing and pleasure boats, ringed with restaurants and a hilly end lofts in stone warehouses interspersed ity of life. Top: Cap landscape covered with apartments, the whole guarded by two ancient with attractive public housing units. Jalinot Croisette in the forts made of massive pink-hued stone. Docked in the background, calanques. Bottom: points out that one-third of Euroméditer- Chez Jeannot ferries bound for Algeria and Corsica loom enormous and white. ranée’s new and renovated residences will be restaurant in the Marseille’s center extends inland from the Vieux Port, adjacent to subsidized housing.

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