Gastronomic Reforms Under Peter the Great. Toward A
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Gastronomic Reforms under Peter the Great. Toward a Cultural History of Russian Food Author(s): Darra Goldstein Reviewed work(s): Source: Jahrbücher für Geschichte Osteuropas, Neue Folge, Bd. 48, H. 4 (2000), pp. 481-510 Published by: Franz Steiner Verlag Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/41050633 . Accessed: 26/09/2012 10:57 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at . http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp . JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. Franz Steiner Verlag is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Jahrbücher für Geschichte Osteuropas. http://www.jstor.org ABHANDLUNGEN Darra Goldstein,Williamstown, MA GastronomicReforms under Peter the Great. Toward a CulturalHistory of Russian Food* Despite the considerableresearch that has been done on the eighteenthcentury in Russia, thereis stilllittle documentation on theevolution of cuisine.Few worksdeem food important enoughto warrantcritical attention, overlooking it as a valuable source of information.Yet thehistory of theworld encompasses much more thanthe biographyof greatmen (to invert Thomas Carlyle's famousmaxim), and food studiescan reveal a bounteousamount about the cultural,social, and politicallife of a nation.However, since the firstRussian cookbook was publishedonly towardthe end of theeighteenth century, cookbooks cannotserve as a source of informationas theydo forother cuisines, notablyFrench, Italian, Spanish, and English. For Russia, monasteryrecord books and Churchdocuments can provideimportant information about theavailability of produce and thesequence of feastand fastdays throughoutthe year. But apartfrom scattered archival documents,there is a dearthof reliable sources. The most useful materialsprove to be memoirsand diaries of both domestic and foreignobservers. For foods of the immediatepre-Petrine period, an excellentsource is the "Knigi vo ves' god v stol estvy podavat'," conceived as a supplementto the Domostroi, which itself provides useful informationabout the preparation,storage, and servingof food. The Knigi representa listingof the differentfoodstuffs appropriate for eating during feast and fastdays and include instructionsfor making various fermentedbeverages and preparingvegetables and fruits.They also contain the invaluable "Rospisi kushan'iu boiarina Borisa Ivanovicha Morozova," which details the foods available to wealthyseventeenth-century Russians.1 Anotheruseful source is the descriptionof Muscovy leftby GrigoriiKotoshikhin, clerk to Tsar Aleksei Mikhailovich beforeturning traitor. His "O Rossii v tsarstvovaniiAlekseia Mikhailovicha" provides copious informationon food at court,particularly the Russian institutionof podacha and table service duringroyal feasts.His work is also helpfulfor the informationit provides on foodstuffsin the economy.2 A differentsort of insightinto Muscovite foodwaysis providedby theaccounts of foreign travelers,which vary in theirreliability. More oftenthan not we learn as much about the gastronomicand culturalpreferences of the travelersas we do about the Russian foodways. The chief problem is thatthe foreigntravel generallynote only the elements of Russian cuisine and table service thatseem exotic; anythingremotely familiar is deemed unworth mention. We can learn, for instance, that over one hundred dishes, in several different courses,were servedat a feastbut remainfrustrated not to findout exactlywhat these dishes * I amgrateful to Max Okenfussof Washington University for his many insightful comments on this essay. Knigi vo ves' god v stol estvypodavat' [dopolneniek Domostroiublagoveshchenskago popa Sil'vestra],in: Vremennikimperatorskogo moskovskogo obshchestva istorii i drevnosteirossiiskikh. Kn. 6 red.Iv. Moskvav un. 1850, 7-44. 2 (pod Zabelina). tip., pp. GrigoriiKotoshikhin O Rossiiv tsarstvovaniiAlekseia Mikhailovicha. Text and Commentary. Ed. by A. E. Pennington.Oxford 1980. Jahrbücherfür Geschichte Osteuropas 48 (2000) H 4 e FranzSteiner Verlag Wiesbaden GmbH, Sitz Stuttgart/Germany 482 Darra Goldstein were - beyond the factthat they were heavilyseasoned withgarlic. Of the foreignreporters, the best is Adam Olearius, a German scholar who travelledto Russia on an embassy from Holstein in 1647 and keenly observed Russian customs.3 Primaryaccounts from the Petrine era are highlyentertaining, and the carefulreader can finda good deal of informationabout theway people ate, even if this informationis offered only in passing. Given Peter's predilections,the cultureof drinkingis accorded far more space than the cultureof eating,but even so, the diaries of the envoys JustJuel, Friedrich ChristianWeber, and Johann-GeorgKorb all offerinsight into the foods, table settings,and etiquetteof Peter's reign.Like mostaccounts by foreigners,these works are oftenmarred by thecultural prejudices of theirauthors, specifically the aversion theyfrequently felt toward Russian food.4 In his treatise"On the Corruptionof Morals in Russia," Prince Mikhail Shcherbatovcited numerous instances of the ways in which the traditionalfoods and eating patternsof Russia had changedover thecourse of theeighteenth century. But Shcherbatov's conservative agenda oftenkeeps his pronouncementsfrom being trustworthy.5The best secondarysources are descriptiveRussian histories,such as Tereshchenko's comprehensive "Byt russkagonaroda," Kostomarov's "Domashniaia zhizn' i nravyvelikorusskogo naroda," Kliuchevskii'smonumental "Kurs russkoiistorii," and Pyliaev's "Staroe zhit'e". All of these worksoffer focussed discussions of traditionalRussian foodways,though unfortunately they rarelycite originalsources.6 Western secondary works are the disappointingexception here. For instance,Lindsey Hughes' comprehensivework on thePetrine era is excellentin everyother respect, but it fails to tellus anythingabout eighteenth-centuryeating habits or about thesignificant changes that occurred in Russian gastronomyunder Peter the Great. (Hughes does, however, devote considerablespace to Peter's drinkinghabits.)7 Smith and Christian'simportant "Bread and Salt" is helpfulfor understanding social backgroundand the economic challenges Russia faced over thecenturies, but it does not offerany sense of theaesthetic or culturalaspects of eating.8From Anthony Cross we can glean interestingtidbits about the consumptionof beer and ale in Russia, but he does not treatfoodstuffs in any depth,like Hughes paying attention to drinkrather than food,9 and Simon Dixon's recent"The Modernisationof Russia" does 3 The Travelsof Oleariusin Seventeenth-CenturyRussia. Trans,and ed. by Samuel H. Baron. Stanford1967. 'A « • « • -a- w • • « « « • • ■ v^ . * • « r « mm/' s'. « « ^ m « 1 * *" 4 f' f' f' y 11 Zapiski lusta lulia, datskagoposlannika pn rare veiikom [1 /uy-i i j. Moskva, univ. up. iöw tau subsequentquotations from lusta lui' are takenfrom the notes publishe in: Russkii arkhiv [1892] nos. 3 and 5; Friedrich Christian Weber The PresentState of Russia. Vol. 1-2. London 1722-23, reprint New York 1968; Johann-Georg Korb Diary of an AustrianSecretary of Legation at the Court of Peter the Great. Trans, and ed. by The Count MacDonnell. London 1863, reprintLondon 1968. 5 Mikhail Shcherbatov O povrezhdenii nravov v Rossii, in: On the Corruptionof Morals in Russia. Ed. and trans,with an introductionand notes by A. Lentin. Cambridge 1969. A. V. Tereshchenko Byt russkago naroda: narodnost , zhihshcha, domovodstvo, obraz zhizni, muzyka,svad'by, vremiachislenie,kreshchenie i pr. i pr. Tom 1-7. S.-Peterburg,tip. Ministravnutren- nykhdel, 1848; N. I. Kostomarov Domashniaia zhizn' i nravyvelikorusskogo naroda: utvar', odezh- da, pishcha i pife, zdorov'e i bolezni, nravy,obriady, priem gostei, in: Istoricheskiemonografii i issle- dovaniia. Tom 19. S.-Peterburg1887, pp. 3-314, reprintMoskva 1993; V. O. Kliuchevskii Istoriia russkogo byta: Chteniia v shkole i doma (1867), reprintMoskva 1995 (the original publication ap- peared as a supplementto the Russian translationof P. Kirchman's Istoriiaobshchestvennogo i chast- nogo byta); M. I. Pyliaev Staroe zhit'e: ocherki i razskazy. S.-Peterburg,tip. A. S. Suvorina, 1897. 7 Lindsey Hughes Russia in the Age of Peterthe Great. New Haven 1998. 8 R. E. F. Smith, David Christian Bread and Salt: A Social and Economic History of Food and Drink in Russia. Cambridge 1984. 9 Anthony Cross By the Banks of theNeva: Chaptersfrom the Lives and Careers of the Britishin Eighteenth-CenturyRussia. Cambridge 1997. GastronomieReforms under Peter the Great 483 not mentionfood at all.10Nevertheless, it is possible to stitchtogether the observati all of these sources intoportraits of certainmajor events. At the birth of Peter the First in 1672, a wondrous display of molded sugar-paste confectionsconcluded thecelebratory dinner prepared for Peter's proud father,Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. The sugar conceits included "a cinnamonspice cake (kovrizhka)made with sugar1111 in the shape of theMuscovy coat of arms;a large,cone-shaped cinnamon spice cake decoratedwith colors, weighing 2 puds 20 pounds;1121large, molded sugar confections shaped like eagles with the royal orb, one whiteand theother red/131 each weighing1 M2puds' a 2-pudswan of moldedsugar; a 'w'ï-pudsugar duck;a