WATCH BATTERY ANALYZER New Electronic Testing Device For Watch Departments - Tests the Complete Range ofWatch Batteries

Features/Benefits: • More than a Cell Tester! - Also senses the movement's electronic pulses to determine if there is an electronic problem, without opening the watch case. • Compact, easy to use modern design. • Enhances customer confi­ dence that they are receiving more professional service. • Comes with a complete set of easy-to-read operating in­ structions on the bottom of the unit. • Tests all types of batteries - Mercury, Silver Oxide, High SPECIAL PRICE $44.95 Drain, Silver Oxide, Low with purchase of 150 batteries Drain, and Lithium. $19.50 BATIERY TOOL KIT 1 - 6 pc. Screwdriver Set 1 - Case Opening Knife 1 - Pocket Case Opener for Screw-type Backs L- Spri.ng Bar Tool 1-Plastic Tweezer 1 - Cell Cross-Reference and "How-To" Booklet

"'S>.R<@' ... Esslirf :"'} & Cb. National Wats: 800-328-0205 ·~~ ·~. Minnesota Wats: 800-392-0334 1165 MedalllorfDrly~~· &J; PauJ; Minnesota 55120 Order by FAX - 24 Hours A Day: 612-452-4298 P.O. Box 64561 :{~i} p a ulfM~ nesota 55164 Inquiries- Information: 612-452-7180 .~x_;..;.;;: :· ·:··· ·:..; VOLUME 16, NUMBER 2 FEBRUARY 1992 PIVOT WORK FOR THE HOROLOGICAL CLOCKMAKER 14

BASIC TOOLS FOR JEWELRY Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute CRAFTSMEN 18 Alice B. Carpenter 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE

Henry B. Fried 6 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS A Waterbury Train Engine Clock

Fred S. Burckhardt 12 ROCK QUARRY If We Didn't Have to Worry About Time . ..

J.M. Huckabee 14 AS A CLOCKMAKER TURNS The Lathe and Pivot Work

Marshall F. Richmond 18 PICKLE BARREL Jewelry Crafting and Repair Helpful Tools for JeweJry Work

Archie B. Perkins 22 TECHNICALLY WATCHES Antique Watch Restoration, Part LXXIV

Wes Door 30 SHOPTALK How to Start & Manage A Business, Part VI

Robert D. Porter 32 WATCHES INSIDE & OUT REPAIRING A A Minerva Stopwatch BROKEN Henry B. Fried 38 BOOK REVIEW BALANCE STAFF Marine & Pocket Chronometers, History and Development 32 40 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING JeweJry & Watch Programs OSU I Okmulgee DEPARTMENTS Joseph L. Cerullo 42 AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN New Members/4 Your Proposals are Needed AWi Project Extend/ 4 Bulletin Board/28 AskHuck/41 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Association News/ 43 Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 , for$40.00 per year ($4.50 per copy Material Search Network/ 43 in the United States and $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Classified Ads/ 44 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/ 48 Advertisers' lndex/48 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. PHONE (513) 661-3838, AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX (513) 661-3131 . * FELLOWS * OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE

George Daniels Gerald G. Jaeger Henry B. Fried Robert A. Nelson EXECUTIVE AND EDrrORIAL OFFICES Josephine F. Hagans •Hamilton E. Pease • Orvllle R. Hagans Miiton C. Stevens AWi Central Ewell D. Hartman Marvin E. Whitney P.O. Box 11011 Harold J. Herman 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, OH 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fax: (513) 661-3131

Milton C. Stevens: Editor Presiient 's Message Regina Stenger: Associate Editor SOMEI'HING NEW Donna Baas: Production Director IS COMING YOUR WAYl Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor Ifyou read "President's Message" in the June 1991 issue of Horological Times, you will Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager remember the problems we have had in trying to Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager get positive news of our profession before the Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator public. The purpose of the publicity campaign was to improve the image of the horologist. Frankly, I TECHNICAL EDITORS: don't know about you, but I'm a little tired of being told I'm in a dying profession. It was decided that AWI would have a go James Adams Henry B. Fried at handling our own publicity. Fred Burckhardt Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee was appointed chainnan ofthe Publicity and Public Relations Committee for 1991-92. James H. Broughton John P. Kenyon Before I go any further, let me tell you about some of the problems with Fred S. Burckhardt John A. Nagle advertising. I investigated advertising prices when I was teaching in order to adver­ David Christianson Archie B. Perkins tise the watchmaking program at the college where I taught. For a 2-inch square ad Charles Cleves Robert D. Porter in the classified section ofthe largest newspaper in our state, the price was $236.00 for Joe Crooks Marshall F. Richmond one time only; and I couldn't say as much as I needed to in a 2-inch square space. So Wes Door Marvin E. Whitney prices are exorbitant. A problem AWi has is the large number of newspapers they would need to take ads out in in each state. Why, just one 2-inch square ad in each state capitol AWi OFFICERS: newspaper, at $236.00, would come to $11,800.00 for a one-time only ad. Then there are the magazines. Which ones do you advertise in? Magazine Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: President ads are considerably higher than newspaper ads. Besides, when we advertise in trade Wes Door, CMW: Rrst Vice PreskJent magazines, we're speaking to the trade-members of our own profession who already James Adams, CMW: Second Vice President know about us. Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary Another avenue of advertising is radio and television. Here again we have Marvin E. Whitney. CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer the problem of the large number of stations across the country and the even higher price of their paid advertising. AWi DIRECTORS: So, let's face it . . . AWi cannot do the job by itself. In the first place, AWi doesn't have that kind of money. What AWI can do is help us to help ourselves. William Biederman, CMW If you own your own business, you ·are already doing some advertising. Who taught you how to advertise? How did you decide which form of advertising James H. Broughton, CMEW brillgs in the most return for your advertising dollar spent? Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Fred and his committee have come up with a booklet that will help you Henry Frystak, CMW answer these questions. He also ha.s several ads prepared so that all you have to do is Ewell D. Hartman, CMW, FAWI insert your name or your f='s name. It .includes the AWI logo, s o you identify yourself Gerhard Hutter, CMW as being affiliated with a national, professional organization. These ads are profession­ Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI ally designed to catch the eye of the reader at first glance. Robert L. Macomber, CMC Most stores only advertise when they have a sale, and the most eye-catching Benjamin Matz, CMW thing a bout the ad is the word SALE. Wl\y not place informational a ds that will keep Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAWI your name before the public between sales? When you received your certification of Master Watchmaker or Master Clockmaker, did you send notification to your local Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: Affiliate Chapter Director newspaper? Why not? What better way to inform your customers that you have Wit Jarochowski: Research & Education Council Director qualified for the highest title in your profession? Letting people know you're highly Robert F. Bishop, CM EW: Immediate Past President qualified to perform your job is a very positive kind of a dvertising that will be of financial benefit to you. What Fred and his committee have done is good. I'm excited about it. I think Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary you will be too. WatchHorologiool Times for more information. SOMETIIlNG NEW James Lubic: Technical & Educational SeNices Manager IS COMING YOUR WAY! Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical Director

Reprinting and reproduction Is prohibited without written perml88lon from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copyright ©1992 by the American Watchmakers Institute. ON THE FRONT: This beautiful scene is from the outskirts of Madrid, New Mexico. Slide by Mark A. Krueger of Hamburg, NY.

2 Horological Times/February 1992 NEW ELECTRONIC TESTING DEVICE FOR WATCH DEPARTMENTS

Tweezer plugs into the back and permits Meter indicates condition of batteries for testing of batteries in the package or ' ~----a11 testing methods. individually. Tests condition of the battery in a quartz analog watch without \ opening the watch. Creates customer confidence.

If the Tests all types of watch individual watch batteries - hands are not Mercury, Silver Oxide, High Drain, moving, watch can be Size: 6Yi6"w x5%"d x2"h Low Drain and Lithium. placed on the Analyzer face up or face down. If the green light flashes and the Analyzer beeps, it may be assumed the battery in the watch is good. Do not replace the battery. The watch will require additional service by a certified quartz watch maker. If no beeps emanate from the Analyzer while the watch is in place and the green light does not flash, replace the battery with a fresh Eveready® watch battery.

The Eveready®Watch Battery Analyzer is an ideal electronic tool Contact your Eveready Battery supplier for details. for watch sales and service departments. It provides quick, accurate and professional information in one convenient, compact easy-to- use unit. An Energizer®9-volt battery and complete printed ~ f llf!ftf! ADU instructions are furnished with the Analyzer. Test positions for D fl J;ftf;ll f ® Eveready®batteries are printed on the bottom of the unit. """ © 1992 Eveready Battery Company, Inc. NEW MEMBERS

ANDERSON, Paul S.--Janesville, WI HAVENS, Edward, Jr.--Houma, LA PARK, Mannjee--Seoul, Korea ARAND, Angela M.--Harrison, OH HEINECKE, Wallace B.--Orland Park, IL PHUNG, Nam Ngoc--San Rafael, CA BAILEY, Scott--Columbus, IN HESS, Michelle Annette--Albuquerque, NM Sponsor: Xuan Ngoc Phung--San BALLARD, Keith A.--Drexel, NC Sponsor: Karl Buttner--Albuquerque, NM Rafael, CA BARTLETT, Robert--Manacapan, NJ HOCHEN, Joseph--Silver Spring, MD RAUSCH, Kent C.--Belleville, IL BRANNON, Roy D.--Corsicana, TX HOFBERG, Alex--Portland, OR SAUTTER, Sheri--Tucson, AZ BUNKERS, Philip C. --Grand Island, NE HOFSTETTER, Michael F.--Zionsville, PA Sponsor: Timothy Caldwell--Phoenix, AZ CLA YTON-KASTENHOLZ, Keith-- HOUCK, Seth C.--Redington Shores, FL SAXTON, Frank--N. Syracuse, NY Monrovia, CA HUNT, t-jenry E.--Austin, TX Sponsor: Werner Paul--Hagaman, NY COMSTOCK, Carter--Escondido, CA JOHNSTON, Kenneth C.--Tucson, AZ SCHACHT, Jackie--Marshville, NC COOK, Edward R.--Alpha, NJ KLEINSCHMIDT, Stewart--Prospect Hts., IL SHKL YAR, Alexander--Pittsburgh, PA CORREA, Julio A.--Brooklyn, NY KRAMER, Fred--Mission Hills, CA Sponsor: John C. Paige--Pittsburgh, PA Sponsor: Keith Lovett--New York, NY KUHN, Billy--Florence, AL SMITH, John--Wilmington, DE CRANDALL, Crystal A.--Arlington, WA LAUER, William E.--Baltimore, MD STUART, Michael--Scranton, PA GREVER, Robert--Miramar, FL LOEBBAKA, Michael D.--Sauserties, NY VAN MECHELEN, Nathan--Seattle, WA CYLUS, Kirk D.--Owings Mills, MD MARGOLIS, Larry B.--Lakewood, CO VIERLING, Jerome A.--Shakopee, MN DAVIS, Arthur L.--Niles, OH Sponsor: Timothy Caldwell--Phoenix, AZ VITANZA, Vince--Uttleton, CO DIMINO, Angelo V.--Costa Mesa, CA MCALEAR, Robert--Lakeport, CA Sponsor: Timothy Caldwell--Phoenix, AZ DUBOSE, Chuck--Memphis, TN MCGLOTHIN, Robert E.--Stuart, FL VOIGTSBERGER, Richard--Virginia D'URSQ, Robert J.--Yonkers, NY MILLER, R. Paul--Grand Junction, CO Beach,VA EATON, Kenneth W.--San Francisco, CA Sponsor: Earl Babb--Grand Junction, CO WAJS, A.--Zurich, Switzerland FAST, Lowell A.--Colonial Heights, VA MORGAN, Janice D.--Hazel Green, WI WALKER, Ina 8.--Colorado Springs, CO FUHR, Kenneth--Littleton, CO MOWELL, Thomas H.--Orlando, FL WARREN, Kelly S.--Everett, WA GRANICA, Malan G.--Johnstown, PA Sponsor: Steve Callihan--Altamonte WINEGAR, Travis--Lubbock, TX GRAVATT, James--Whiting, NJ Springs, FL WU, Yu-Yang--Palo Alto, CA Sponsor: Ed Eastmond--Union Beach, NJ NASH, Mike--Lakeside, CA YETMAN, David--Tucson, AZ GREEN, Howard R.--Wausau, WI NAZARENO, Ray--New Rochelle, NY Sponsor: Joe Wallis--Tucson, AZ GRIFFIN, W.S.--Memphis, TN OHST, Jeffrey--Muskegon, Ml HAAS, Kermit A.--Findlay, OH O'LEARY, Patrick--Woodhaven, NY 0

PROJECT EXTEND CLASSES FOR 1992

Contact AWi Central for the general information brochure for Project Extend and specific course brochures for classes that interest you. AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211; (513) 661-3838; Fax (513) 661-3131. February 17-21 Watch Ill (complicated) James Lubic March 2-6 Lathe I (beginners) James Lubic March 9-13 Lathe II (advanced) Archie Perkins March 16-20 Watch Case Repair Marshall Richmond March 23-27 Clock Case Repair James Williams March 30-April 3 Clock Repair I (beginners) James Lubic April 6-10 Clock Repair II (advanced) Roland Iverson May 4-8 Clock Repair Ill (restoration) David Christianson May 11-15 Quartz I (beginners) Gerald Jaeger May 18-22 Quartz II (advanced) Robert Bishop June 1-5 Watch I (staffing, poising, and timing) James Lubic June 8-12 Watch Repair II (hairspring vibrating & finishing) Hal Herman June 15-19 Watch Repair V (restoration) Archie Perkins June 20-24 Complicated Watches Antoine Simonin July 6-10 Clock Repair VI John Nagle July 13-17 Clock Repair VI I John Nagle

4 Horological Times/February 1992 WATCH BATTERY ANALVZER Determine A Watch Battery's Condition Without Opening the Case! Now you can easily determine the condition of a quartz analog watch battery before opening the watch easel The Eveready Watch Battery Analyzer senses the electronic pulses emanating from a quartz analog watch then alerts the jeweler of the battery's condition.

Save time and avoid unnecessary work! Quartz analog watches stop for many reasons. Dust, dirt, and water that enter the watch can easily jam the gear train and stop the watch. Replacing the battery in a watch that needs to be cleaned will not improve the watch's perform­ ance. You'll save time and establish customer confidence by making sure that the watch requires battery replacement before you open the case.

Battery Testing! The Analyzer is the only battery tester that can test batteries right in the package as well as those removed from the watch. Buy one and see why the Analyzer is the essential instrument for quality watch service. TO-w2000 $69.95 Essential for all jewelers & Watchmakers ! Special!! $ 44.95 w/purchase of 150 Eveready Batteries. QUARTZ CLEAN--PlastiCLEAN----l

Ideal for cleaning metal Completely safe for cleaning quartz watch movements_ 12lastic quartz watch movements.

"Quartz Clean" is a high purity, rapid penetrating, cleaning solution that quickly dissolves con­ PlastiCLEAN's powerful micro­ taminants. The 16 oz. - scopic cleaning action penetrates aerosol is ideally suited tiny crevices in plastic quartz for metal quartz watch watch movements, lifting out dry movements and small oils and residue. clock movements. The Now in new 12 oz. one quart bottle is for aerosol, as well as use with the "Quartz 17 oz. bottles used Clean" airbrush sys­ with the "Quartz fie;~~~~ tems. Clean" airbrush systems. No Gear Train Disassembly

Cleans in Seconds! PlastiCLEAN Quartz Clean - 16 oz. Aerosol QC-PL17 - 17 oz. Bottle..... $16.95 QC-16 .....••••...... • $9.95ea. Quartz Clean - 1 qt. QC-PL 12 - 12 oz. Aerosol .. $14.95 1 Case/12 cans...... $101.50 QC-32 ...... $14.95 Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC

A Waterbury Train Engine Clock

I have been in the watch and the top of the engine, for a number of and fastened to another piece ofwood. Q clock repair business for 28 hours. Am I right or wrong?: 1891 was the years. I have in for repair a clock that The dial side ofthe train clock year this clock was made. is a masterpiece. The person who is shown in the fourth photo. The last I believe this clock was made carved it was very good with wood. photo shows the front of the engine to strike the hour with the bell and The first photo shows the 8- with the year 1891carvedoutofwood wheel to move or there wouldn't have day Waterbury movement that is in been axles or shafts with pulleys this train engine clock. It also shows underneath. where the wooden pulley goes on the Ray E. Ferster movement on the back plate. The Lykens, PA seoond photo shows a white belt, which comes from the train wheel shaft up to From an examination ofyour the wooden pulley. Each one of those A photos and comparfr n with wheel axles or shafts has a pulley for my catalog of Waterbury clocks (and a belt. (By the way, this clock has not movements), I can only render an run for 40 years.) opinion based on seeing so many clocks, The way it looks to me, when and a searching through my very the clock strikes it turns the wheels extensive collection of clock catalogs. under the train and rings the bell on While you say this is a Water­ bury movement, and since you are that close, I must accept your account. The Waterbury movements in my Waterbury catalogs resemble yours

6 Horological Times/February 1992 Borel Quartz Crown Assortmen Borel has assembled the 45 most common dustproof and waterproof types used on today's quartz watches, which SWISS require smaller sizes and taps. Includes diameters: 2.50, 2.75, 3.00, 3.25, 3.50, 3.75 and Taps 1O,11, 12 & 13 MADE This new updated assortment includes tap 13 sizes, more WP sizes and more tap 12 crowns than previous assort­ ment. 1 each yellow and white of 40 numbers, 60 bottle .Hnrel plus 5 Blue Stone Crowns, yellow only. Total of 85 Crowns, in 60 bottle cabinet. No other replacement crown approaches Borel Crown in quality, looks or effectiveness. Borel Crowns are made by the top Swiss producer of crowns for new-watch production. Borel stocks the complete range Newly updated of sizes, styles, types, tap sizes, post lengths, and tube openings. You'll find exactly the crown you need. 751/2 Asst. sgo Design Tap10 Tap11 Tap12 Tap13 Dustproof Type 2.75mm • 652/10 652/11 652/12 3.00mm • 656/10 656/11 656/12 3.25mm • 660/10 660/11 660/12 660/13 3.50mm • 664/1 0 664/11 664/12 3.50mm • 666/10 666/11 Diameter Tube Post Design Tap10 Tap11 Tap12 Tap13 Waterproof Type 2.50mm 1.50mm Flush • • 752/10 752/11 752/12 752/13 2.75mm 1.60mm Flush • • 754/10 754/12 3.00mm 1.60mm Flush ~ e 756/10 756/11 756/12

3.00mm 1.80mm Flush mna e 758/10

3.25mm 1.80mm Flush llIIID e 760/10 760/11

3.25mm 1.60mm Flush lliiiiiiill e 762/10 762/11 3.50mm 1.80mm Flush llIIlID e 764/10 764/11

3.50mm 1.60mm Flush UiiiiUI • 766/11 766/11 766/12 766/13 Assortment, now, includes 5 Blue Stone Crowns DP 3.00, 3.50mm 2.00mm Flush llIIlID • 768/10 768/11 768/12 3.50, 4.00 and WP 3.00, 3.50. 3.75mm 1.60mm Flush miiiifl • 770/10 770/11

Borel has put together this unique assortment of crowns styled as those used on the popular Japanese brand watches: Seiko, Japanese Pulsar, Lorus and Citizen. Includes 48 numbers, most of which are the waterproof type with gasket, diameters from 2.5mm to 5.5mm. Total 96 crowns, 1 each of yellow and white of 48 Style Crown numbers. Refills available. 60 bottle cabinets. Asst. Some of the numbers in the assortment are: J-32M29 J-506-2254 J-25N02 J-35E09 J-30E02 J-35M10 J-40M17 J-506-2614 J-40M32 J-45M30 J-50005 J-35003 J-35N57 951/2 Asst. sgg J-506-2847 J-40M24 J-45001 J-45W29 J-35M82 J-35M68 Jules Borel & Company 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64106 .llttrel National Order Desk -- 1-800-776-6858 .llttrel Fax -- 1-800-776-6862 win, the largest maker of locomotives, It is a key wind with two trains--one QUESTIONS & ANSWERS withastop button at 12o'clockon the (Continued from previous page) was originally a watchmaker. This custom-made clock conversion appears case. Any information about the manufacturer and repair procedures closely, but not exactly. As for the to be the work ofa highly skilled wood­ would be greatly appreciated. extra long shafts, these might be per­ worker with horological experience. It Forrest C. Parker sonalized replacements by the skilled could have been one who was a retail Tallahassee, FL maker of this clock which would not jeweler and displayed this (literally) be a difficult task. running clock in his window to at­ From your description, the tract trade (as did young Baldwin whole clock, if mounted on tracks, and D.AA. Buck, inventor of the would or could actually advance with Waterbury long-wind watch). I can each striking. If so, positions on the only give you an opinion which may tracks could be marked offfor the half not be valid since there is no known hour linear progress ofthe clock along precedent like it of which a record the tracks. In my opinion, this is a (auction or otherwise) was kept. conversion from some ordinary clock You have an interesting item into the locomotive clock. Locomotives which is a reminder of the days when have held a strange fascination with those beautiful engines roared and clockmakers, and many inventions hissed, and whistled their way across concerning the refinements to them our young countryside. were by watch and clockmakers. Bald- I have a pocket watch in for Q repair and my customer would • POWERMATIC like to find out some information about •SAKURA •JET it. The watch is in a silver hunting •ARTISAN •MINI MAX case, approximately 20 ligne move­ {304) 562-3538 •Weeleoheve woodworking ment; the name "J. Huguenin Dz" is CATALOG $1.00 boobI P.O. Box 536-HT • Hurricane WV • 25526 on the movement and the back cover.

UENTHER & SONS ~ -.-,, WOIUIWIDE DIST1UBl1TOll DF '-t'-="'~-- .., ~ GUUINE Your photos reveal a mid-19th \,,.="' Rl.'EN MATERIAL G A century LeLocle calibre inde­ pendent center seconds watch. Many such were made later with stem wind­ ing. The Huguenin family mainly op­ erated out of La Chaux de Fonds, but Cuts Prices 1a ~, ~ tt on the nearby LeLocle was then the cen­ ter of watchmaking. MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS As for repair procedures, any $ 9.00 per dozen assorted any way, OR competent, careful watchmaker should $90.00 per gross assorted any way be able to repair one of these. Yours with the flying off-center seconds THATS .63 CENTS EACH! auxiliary generally jumped around in FAX: 213-892-8035 one second to indicate quarter sec­ TOLL FREE: 800-462-1962 onds. Just cautious care in the under­ 404 W. 7th Street, Suite 408 dial and train layout is required. LOCAL: 213-892-8033 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Henry B. Fried 0 8 Horological Times/February 1992 q~wigart ~pecials

The New Way to Oean Jewelry IONIC-CLEANING IS HANDS On - START TO FINISH 60 SECONDS MDdel 200SB includes light indicator for time cycle & automatic reset.

D Eliminates tarnish from Gold and D No Fumes - Does not contain Ammonia. D No shipping restrictions. Silver. D Loosens grease, soil, polishing D Safe for Gold and Silver. Does not D Cleans Opals, Emeralds and all soft compounds. remove metal. stones - even Turquoise. D Easy removal by final steaming. 0 Soft bubbles do the work - Geans D Not an Ultrasonic - No damaging D Built in rust inhibitors & tank cleaner. from pores in metal. sound waves. D Works equally well in hot or cold tank. __ Speed-Brite Systems $87.50 ea. D No Heat Ammonia or Acid. Meets O.S.H.A. standards. D Longer life - change solution less unit with 16 oz. Gem Sparkle frequently. Super Concentrate List Price __ 3 or more $75.00 ea. $150.00

Swigart Brand MR Crystals High quality mineral round crystals for Quartz Watches

Sizes available 14.0mm thru 32.0mm in diameter. Theses are high quality mineral crystals, not a tempered glass crystal. NOW IN STOCK Compare and SAVE $$$! C\ $20. 00 per dozen or 2. 00 each (dozen price charged for 3 or more)

"'7 00 Other brands can cost you $30. per dozen. l 4.0nvn-32.0mm Why pay more? Pocket Watch and Dome Gift Set 1mthick Fit Swigart MR crystals and watch your profits grow and customers faces glow! with FREE Pocket Watch Chain $20.00 per Doz. $2.00 eacb ORDER TODAY $19.95 ea. (3 or more priced at dozen prices) Order #E-JOO 1 - Oak I EJ002 - Walnut

Zebra Spring Bar Assortment KIT SERIES #300 - 36 COMPARTMENTS 11300 (FULL KIT) 1,000 ZEBRA BARS WITH GAUGE AND CURVING TOOL. ••.•• EACH $53.95 11300-S (STARTER KIT) 300 ZEBRA BARS WITH GAUGE AND CURVING TOOL ...••• EACH $25.50 11300- E (EMPTY KIT) ••.••..••.••.•.• EACH $ 8.95

The E.J. Swigart Co. 34 W. 6th St. Cincinnati, Ohio 45202 1-800-543-0309 1-800-582-1706 (in Ohio) 24 Hour Fax 1-513-731-6066 Toll Free Fax: 1-800-582-6510

We're one of Lhe Oldest Malerial Houses in Ute Country, we slrlve to be Ute besL Remember we offer no minimum Wals order, fasl and Friendly Service. 112 Years Experience. New Accounts Always Welcome WOSTEP CELEBRATES ITS 25th ANNIVERSARY

OSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training up to date on WOSTEP's educational programs and dis­ W and Education Program) recently held a reunion in cussed its Mure plans. Among the new courses to be Neuchatel, Switzerland to mark its 25th anniversary. introduced is one for manufacturers' technical instructors Most of the students of WOSTEP come from and a product knowledge course for sales staff. English-speaking countries--and a total of 75 students from WOSTEP Director Tony Simonin gave a presenta­ 15 different countries were present for the anniversary tion on WOSTEP's Mure, the upgrading now going on at celebrations. They were joined by several members of the the school, and the increasing number of opportunities that WOSTEP Association, the official body which supports its WOSTEP will be offering its students. He spoke about activities, and guests from the firms which had contributed after-sales service, especially with regard to the needs of to its 25 years of success. the factory to meet the needs of those who provide the WOSTEP's main purpose has always been to give service. students who have mastered basic repair techniques a Mr. Andre Beyner, former Technical Director of means of acquiring a more complete knowledge of the Ebauches SA, who is now a consultant engineer and a repair, overhaul, and service of Swiss mechanical and recognized authority in the watchmaking industry, gave a electronic horological products. This includes a special well-received presentation on time and timing devices course on complicated watches. through the ages. He discussed possible new concepts WOSTEP's 25th anniversary reunion was held for and applications for instruments to measure time in the five days and was tied in with Neuchatel's famous annual future. wine festival. At WOSTEP itself, participants were shown Another day was spent at some of the most how the premises were recently expanded to accommo­ prestigious Swiss watch factories in the area. date more courses. There was a large display of Swiss The anniversary celebrations included a special watchmaking tools and testing machines at the school. dinner and reception for the participants, a boat trip, and a The group then went on to Neuchatel Castle, tour of the attractions in the surrounding area near Neu­ wheretheyweregreeted by Pierre Dubois, State Councillor chatel. Those who attended found it a great success from in charge of economic affairs, at a special reception. all standpoints, especially meeting former classmates and Mr. Roland Brene, Chairman of WOSTEP, gave a discussing their latest professional experiences. complete day's worth of lectures. He brought the attendees 0

1992 HOROLOGICAL TOUR WITH HENRY FRIED On May 4, 1992 the 18th annual AWi Horological Tour will be highlighted with attendance at the World Expo in Spain's Seville. Auspiciously, we start in Paris with its historical and dramatic sights and entertainments which include attendance at the Follies Bergere. Horologically, we will visi tthe French indus try headquarters and a factory. For the collector, the Museum of et Metiers is one of the world's best and most interesting. A planned meeting with officers and members of France's ANCAHA, the equivalent of America's NAWCC collector group, will be included. Other Parisian attractions such as the Louvre, famous Marche de Pouce (flea market) beckon as well. With our Parisian headquarters of three days we also visit the Chateau country nearby, am ust even for those who've been to Paris before. We also visit Blois, the origin of enameling on watches in the 1600s. The Chartres Cathedral, whose beauty of construction, stained windows, original engineering construction and architecture (and probably one of the most photogenic sundials) which attracts scholars, art historians, and architects, will be on our list of visits. A French "Bullet Train" ride to Geneva will provide an opportunity to visit the Patek Philippe factory and museum to which we have been invited as well as other famous watch factories, time permitting. The Geneva horological museum also contains many rare examples of the horologists' art. In nearby Anemasse, a name familiar to watchmakers, is a factory producing for this industry. On a clear day from Lake Geneva, one can see the peaks of Mont Blanc, highest in Europe. However, not only can we see it from Geneva, but we will visit it at hand. From interesting and attractive Charnonix, we ascend this great mountain to its 12,610-foot level by cable car, where it is possible to see into three countries. We leave Geneva for Spain's capitol, Madrid. The Prado museum is one of the world's finest. Madrid itself has a clock and watch museum as well as the famous Royal Palace collection of clocks acquired by Charles III, a rabid clock buff in 1770. From Madrid, we travel to Seville via their latest high-speed train. Seville, famed in history, opera legend and drama will in 1992 be the site of the World's Expo '92. We will visit the Fair for a full-day visit with meals. Going into southern Spain, we visit the clock and watch museum in Jerez de Frontenac, owned and operated by the owner of one of the most known bodegas. In our visit many years ago, the tour director, horologists, and guides were most gracious hosts. With our headquarters in Marabella, we will radiate daily to memorable Malaga, Granada, Costa Del Sol, Fuengirola, the Generalife and other places en route. On this tour, all meals will be provided. Write for the detailed brochure and join us for a memorable experience and good fellowship. Horologically and touringly yours, Henry B. Fried

10 Horological Times/February 1992 BENCH BAND CUTTER MICROTEST Excellent tool for sizing mesh bands. Long-lasting Now you can test any battery without opening the blade; square cut without fraying. European made. watch back! Saves time and eliminates unnecessary BC-100 problems. The Microtest can determine whether the fault originates in the mechanical or electric part of the watch. Swiss made. BAT-345.00

List Price $99.95 DRS Price $89.00

BAND NOTCHING PLIER Notches standard straps to fit Gucci-type watches. Utilizes existing band inventory- never lose another customer. India. PL-101

List Price $73.10 List Price $21.50 DRS Price $65.50 DRS Price $17 .50 Discounters CASE WRENCH of CASE KNIFE Open all types of waterproof Sturdy, well constructed, well cases easily and without Tools & balanced case knife. Swiss made. scratching the caseback. C0-16.883 Complete with four Supplies sets of pins. C0-59.0501 I List Price $12.15 DRS Price $10.00 /

List Price $21.00 DRS Price $17 .50 SPRING BAR TOOL Remove, measure and insert all types of spring bars. FREE! Replaceable tips, round and forked. SBT-100 2 New Catalogs with Prices ·Findings, Tools & Dason Rings •Watch Parts & Equipment List Price $6.50 DRS Price $5.50

THE JEWELERS' DEPARTMENT STORE Toll Free: 800-223-8960 Fax: 800-526-8682 lll::!C 56 West 47th St., New York, NY 10036 (212) 819-0237 Fax: (212) 354-2270 ROCK QUARRY

Fred S. Burckhardt

If We Didn't Have to Worry About Time ...

id you ever think what it would be like if you necessary. He gave himself as an example. He said, Ddidn't have to worry about time? You could sleep "Look at me--1 don't worry about time. I haven't had to when you're tired, awaken when you're rested, eat worry about being to work on time for over 20 years, and when you're hungry, drink when you're thirsty, come I have everything I need right here." and go when you felt like it, work when you're ready, I thanked him for his input, and as I was stop when you get tired, worry about the thousand leaving, he asked if I could spare a few dollars so he points of light when you wanted to, and live the way could buy a new battery for his watch. He didn't want to people used to before there were years, months, days, be late for when the soup kitchen opened. hours, minutes, and seconds. Next was a housewife who said she wasn't sure Plautus, who died in 184 B.C., is accredited with how to answer the question and thought she'd better saying the following: check with her husband first. Then I came upon a real winner. I stopped him "The gods confound the man who first found out on the street and asked ifl could ask him a question. He How to distinguish hours--confound him, too, said, "Sure.Ihavesometimeonmyhands, butyouhave Who in this place set up a sun-dial, to remember time waits for no man, but if you want I'll To cut and hack my days so wretchedly be glad to answer till the end of time." Into small pieces! When I was a boy, I thanked him for his trouble, but excused My 'belly was my sun-dial--one more sure, myself as I told him I had an appointment. Truer, and more exact than any of them. The next stop was the airport. I saw a pilot and This dial told me when 'twas proper time thought he would be a good person to answer my To go to dinner, when I aught to eat; question. When I asked him who he was, he said, "I'm a But, nowadays, why even when I have, pilot for a major airline. These are my wings here on my I can't fall to, unless the sun gives leave. jacket pocket. I fly the big ones." The town's so full of these confounded dials, I asked him, "What do you think about doing The greater part of its inhabitants, away with all the watches and clocks?" Shrunk up with hunger, creep along the street." He answered, "Are you kidding? Ifl didn't have anything to tell time by, how would I know when it Now, in case you don't know who this Plautus would be time to start being late for take-off?" guy was, his full name was Titus Maccius Plautus. He I could see I was getting nowhere, so I walked was a Roman comic and playwright. There weren't too away when he started to tell me how he learned to fly many nightclubs or theatres around, so Plautus had a during the war. lot of time to be a deep thinker. He detested anyone or An elderly woman was sitting by herself, so I anything that interfered with his daily life. I'm not sure walked over and asked if she would mind answering a how he died, but talk about interfering with somebody's question. She didn't say a word, just started to hit me day! with her purse. After doing much research on how others feel I left the airport and went back to the shop. I about time, I would like to share with you some of the decided to ask the customers and maybe get some better answers I received from several people. First, I found a results. person who lives under a bridge that crosses the river Claudia Bergendorffer came in to pick up her here in town. He wouldn't give me his name. When I watch so I asked her the question. She asked, "Does this asked what he thought about time, he said he thought have anything to do with saving the rain forests?" all timepieces should be abolished as they really weren't I said, "No, Claudia. Not really."

12 Horological Times/February 1992 "I get all confused when I'm asked such mind­ boggling questions. I'll have to think about it for awhile." I could see this whole thing was getting no­ OK, where and just about decided to drop the matter when WE ADMIT IT: Alfonso Dawn came in. I explained to Alfonso what I was doing and YOU'D asked if he would be willing to help me in my quest. He PROBABLY RATHER looked me in the eye and said, "What are you, some kind BETHINKING of sickie?! I can tell you what it's like not being able to ABOUT SOME WILD tell the time. I've been doing it since I left my watch with TROPICAL PARADISE you six months ago! I lost my job because I was late every THAN ABOUT morning! My girlfriend dropped me because I was late WHERE YOU'RE for our dates! I've missed all my favorite TV shows GOING TO PLACE because I didn't kow the time! I missed my dental YOUR NEXT appointment, and now it will be another six months WATCH MATERIAL before I can get another one! I missed my plane at OR TOOL ORDER. vacation time and can't get my money back for the ticket! I didn't know when to take my pills and took too BUT, WHEN YOU DO GET AROUND TO IT... WE HOPE YOU'LL THINK ABOUT many to make up for the ones I missed and ended up in GMNG US A TRY! the hospital for three days! Now, do you want me to go on, or does that answer your question?" For some reason, I had the feeling old Alfonso DAVIS SUPPLY wasn't too happy with me or my service. To smooth 333 W. CHURCH AVE., S.W. things over, I offered to sell him a new watch instead of P.O. BOX 1140 repairing his old one. I was even going to give him a ten­ ROANOKE, VA 24006 percent discount ... (703) 345-8040 The doctor said the blackness around my eye ORDER: (800) 533-6293 IN VA: (800) 533-1523 should be gone in a few weeks. He wasn't sure about FAX: (703) 344-5153 replacing the teeth. I think I had better forget about this survey. 0

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A State-of the-A rt ' Mechanical Watch Analyzer With a Recession-Fighting Price of $1,680.00

It's clean looking, user friendly, very portable, and look what it can do: • Graph recording of the watch-beats on a LCD graphic display. • Selectable resolution (magnification) of the diagram • Automatic gain control. recording. • Four selectable measuring times. • Numerical display of; rate, beat error and amplitude. • Printer-connection for the printout of the numerical or • Automatic selection of the number of beats for all current graphical measuring protocol.* watch types. Manual selection for any special number of • Built-in speaker to hear the watch, switchable ON and beats. OFF. • Automatic search of the beat number corresponding to * Printer pictured in background is an option. the rate zero of the watch.

WITSCHI ELECTRONICS USA, Ltd. P.O. Box 2, Palmyra, NJ 08065-0002 Tel.: 1-800-882-7977 Fax: 1-609-829-2266

February 1992/Horological Times 13 AS A CLOCKMAKER TURNS

BY J.M. HUCKABEE, CMC, FBHI

The Lathe and Pivot Work

LATHE FIXTURES FOR PIVOT WORK et's look into the lathe attachment needed Lfor pivot work. For clocks such as the old Ameri­ can style, it is a good decision to build the pivot working fixtures. These can be made from simple raw materials in a vecy short time. With reasonable effort it is almost impossible to fail in producing some vecy time-efficient tools. The basic pivot task is to refurbish a pivot that has worn to an hourglass shape or is surface-scored in some way. The classic method is to dress the surface with a pivot file, polishing stone, burnisher, etc. This article will speak to the method of holding the arbor and pivot in the lathe with such precision that an excellent result can be effected quickly and easily. We have three important requirements: (1) support of the driving end of the arbor, (2) support the Figure 1. Headstock fixtures for turning between centers. opposite end as it is worked, and (3) effecting a support that runs true and with sufficient rigidity and accuracy. An old adage, "simplicity is the essence of refinement," Make a family of drive pins, chamfer the ends, is the approach we will use. and file a taper (in the lathe is easier) so that they will press finger-tight into the holes in our finished wood BUILDING THE HEADSTOCK FIXTURE piece. Pin length and crank offset adjustment are best Our approach will be to hold the workpiece between left to a later time as the pieces come into use. All of this centers for ease of handling and accuracy. Refer to only requires a few minutes and the job is now complete. Figure 1 for the headstock fixture. This is illustrated at The 1/8 inch arbor will fit into a #32 or #33 collet. You approximately one-half size. The disc is about 3/4 inch may select other rod sizes to fit whatever collet you have in diameter with an arbor ofabout 1-1/2 inches long. The available. drivers are cut from 1/16 inch diameter brass rod stock. Let's go through the process. Cut a 1/2 inch THE TAILSTOCK FIXTURE length piece from a 3/4 inch wood dowel, a broom handle The piece indicated in Figure 2 is a half-open center to if you please. The arbor is a piece of 1/8 inch brass rod be supported in a #32 collet in the lathe tailstock. stock, ends chamfered, and driven into a tight-fitting However, if you do not have a collet-holding tailstock, hole in the wood piece. Set this in the lathe, true all we have numerous other alternatives. surfaces, and locate a conical center in the near-end of Let's make the half-open center. You will need the brass arbor. Drill several holes as depicted. These a family of these, but they are easily and quickly built. should be slightly smaller than the drive pins. For the #32 collet, the raw material is a 1/8 inch

14 Horological Times/February 1992 ULTRASONIC

Figure 2. An open center for pivot polishing along with three soft sub-collets.

hardwood dowel. Many pivots of an old American clock measure about 0.060 inch. Select a drill bit slightly smaller than QUANTREX - ULTRASONIC CLEANING the pivot, let's say about 0.058 inch, and drill a hole MACHINES FROM L & R about 1/4 inch deep in the dowel end. Now with a little Presenting the QUANTREX system from L & R - this sanding disc in the lathe, cut away the dowel until you sleek line of ultrasonic cleaners fits into any setting - from a clockmaker's bench to a retail jewelry countertop. just break into the drilled passageway. Cut the piece to These units are handsome, compact, and quiet. Each about 1 inch long, and then you have the tool shown in Quantrex machine comes standard with increased Figure 2. It's just that easy! power - strength that you can see as soon as you turn the unit on. Also each Quantrex machine carries L & R's Quality Assurance Program (OAP) seal insuring MANDREL TURNING each machine meets L & R's rigid standards which are The mandrel turning tools in Figure 3 are all hand­ among the most stringent in the industry. PLUS the Quantrex machines are backed by an unprecedented made, except the driving dog (carrier) in the central DOUBLE WARRANTY guaranteeing L & R area. The indicator points to a pivot bushing on a ta­ workmanship up to 2 1/2 years! pered mandrel tip ready to be cut to length. We can achieve equal results with the tools that are beingmade QUANTREX 140 in this article. Mid-size 3 3/8 quart capacity Ultrasonic cleaner -that's ideal for volume cleaning. Complete "on-off" switch, Let's discuss the tailstock situation. Figure 4 pilot light, timer, and drain. 270 watt peak output. shows our half-open center in a tailstock adapter to fit Overall dimensions: 1 O 3/8" x 6 388" x 8". Tank the tapered bore of most watchmakers lathes. The two internal dimensions: 9 3/8" x 5 3/8" x 4". Stainless steel cover. OUANTREX 140 ...... $362.65 OUANTREX 140 - With Heater ...... $406.65 STAINLESS STEEL BASKETS 11088 - For 0140 and T-14B ...... $58.35 AUXILIARY PANS 10634 - For 0140 and T-14B ...... $40.85 PLEASE NOTE: These prices are for 11 O volt USA current only- price quotes are available if other voltages are required.

S. (ffai~m-l:nc. Worldwide Distributors to Horologists ' ~;\I td:¢/' 234 Commerce Place, P.O. Box 21208 Greensboro. N.C., 27420, USA Phone (919) 275-0462 Figure 3. Tools for mandrel turning with a pivot bushing FAX Number 1-800-537-4513 indicated.

February 1992/Horological Times 15 Figure 4. A group of tailstock attachments with a pivot bed Figure 5. A soft sub-collet that will drive this wheel. indicated.

center adapters are for a Unimat lathe and a #50 Let's review the setup. When we set our head­ tailstock collet, while the rightmost item is a custom­ stock fixture in place, take a trueing cut in its conical made tailstock runner for a watchmakers lathe. For center. We now have the truth of a dead-center lathe; most watchmakers lathes, make the half-open center since our tailstock is dead, that is also true. Our job from a little larger dowel and knife-trim, or sand, a taper setup is such that all system inaccuracies have been that slips into your specific tailstock runner. cancelled! Always strive for a setup that produces high Now turn to Figure 5. The piece indicated is accuracy in spite of tool deficiencies. That is what has a soft sub-collet to slip into a #63 or #64 collet. This is a been accomplished here. 1/2 inch length of 1/4 inch wood dowel, center drilled to receive the accompanying wheel arbor with a light THE TEST RUN friction fit. This is one means of driving a wheel arbor. Is this a story of fact or is it fiction? Study Figure 8. The Continuing to Figure 6, we show the soft sub-collet in wheel is rotating at high speed. Place a drop ofoil on the use. It is neither necessary or desirable to have a collet pivot and you are ready to rework the worn surface. You for every arbor size you will encounter; use sub-collets. should begin this type of work by having your bur­ nisher, etc. in place before the motor is started and until USE OF THE TOOLS WE HAVE MADE it stops. You will gain skills in due process of this Refer to Figure 7. This shows the classic setup for technique. driving a wheel to refurbish a pivot. Our pivot is in a The scope of this article does not cover the "trap" with its surface standing proud. The tailstock actual pivot work, but a few comments are in order. runner is adjusted so the left pivot is held tightly in the Pivots should be cylindrical in form, with a square conical center as the wheel is rotated by the crank pin. shoulder, and smooth surface. There must be no radius

Figure 6. A soft sub-coll et holds this wheel for pivot polishing. Figure 7. Open center holding a pivot to be polished.

16 Horological Times/February 1992 PRICE CUT CRYSTAL FIT $7 .00

NO GENUINE AT THIS PRICE FOR CLEAN BEZELS ADDITIONAL CHARGE TO CLEAN BEZELS $2.00 ADDITIONAL CHARGE TO REMOVE MVTS. $3.00 ALSO HAVE GENUINE ROLEX, SEIKO, LORUS, PULSAR, BULOVA, LONGINES, & OMEGA CRYSTALS

WE ACCEPT MASTERCARD & VISA Figure 8. Pivot running in an open center. C.O.D. ORDER $50.00 OR LARGER RECEIVE 5% DISCOUNT where the pivot body meets its square shoulder.

FORWARD YOUNG-NEAL Our next article will relate methods ofcutting a bushing 1838 ELM HILL PIKE #116 to length and working a wheel bore and hub to produce a true-running wheel assembly. O NASHVILLE, TN 37210 (615) 889-0060

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~------JFebruary 1992/Horological Times 17 Pickle Barrel

Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

JEWELRY CRAFTING AND REPAIR Helpful Tools for Jewelry Work

here are catalogs full of tools that are available T to the jewelry craftsman. In past articles I have tried to always confine my explanations of how to do certain repairs or jewelry crafting to the basic necessary tools and equipment to do quality work with a minimum of investment in tools and equipment as well as materi­ als that are needed. Although I may have some equip­ ment other craftsmen don't, I still do not have much over the basic materials and tools needed to do quality jewelry crafting. In today's world, time is money. Ifwe can reduce the time required to do a given job and still charge the same price it was, it can increase our hourly rate and at the end of a week our weekly income can be increased. Figure 1 There are pros and cons on how to do this, and not to overdo it. When overdone, the quality of our work can suffer. We don't want this to happen. Therefore, I am going to discuss tools that can be timesaving with their advantages, and also disadvantages as I see them. Let's start with PLIERS. The tool catalogs show page after page of pliers. There are pliers that will straighten, bend, align, form a curve, form an angle, pull, insert, cut off, tighten, loosen, and do about any operation that can be performed by squeezing. Every pair has a definite use that it was made for. A person having all these pliers ·might be able to do many jobs quicker, but in all probability more time would be spent in studying what pliers to choose and sorting them out than it would take to simply do the job with the basic pliers that we have at our fingertips. The basic pliers that I consider necessary are chain nose, flat nose, round nose tapered, end cutting, side cutting, stone setting, bow, parallel, and ring bending pliers. Many of these come in smooth jaw or cut jaw (rough inner surfaces for gripping), and it is good to have a pair of each in parallel, chain nose, or flat nose. Also, a small pair ofshears (see Figure lB) for cutting thin metal such as sheet solder are necessary. With these on hand, I have been able to handle any job that has come across my bench. Another tool that is helpful is what is called the Figure 2. a) third hand tool; b) heavy-duty tweezers. TIDRD HAND TOOL (see Figures 2 and 3). It is a base

18 Horological Times/February 1992 with a double swivel that will hold a pair of heavy-duty tweezers which can be turned to put whatever is held in the tweezers in any position needed. There is also available a double one on a larger base that will allow two objects to be brought together, allowing both hands free to make solder joints. These tools are great for a beginner in learning how to steady hands while putting prongs on rings or similar operations, but it is time consuming to set up these jobs. To put prongs on rings I rarely use these holding devices. I just put the ring in a pair of heavy-duty tweezers, lay it on the bench heat pad, and weight it down with a steel bench block. Then I apply the prong with wire prepared for this, held in tweezers with my left hand while using the torch with my right. In applying solder tips or beads, I use a solder pick in my left hand. I do have a third hand tool that never leaves my bench top and use it often, but not as a Designed for Watclunaker's, Jeweler's, substitute for a steady hand. The point to this is that Engraver's, Hobbyist's, and Technician's. four to six prongs can be put on a ring with a steady hand Beautifully finished in natural wood on all 3 in less time than it takes to set up the job with the third hand tool for the first prong. sides, suitable for storefront use. With SAW FRAMES are also necessary tools, and safety grooves across front of hardwood surface are available in several different types and sizes. They and on 3 sides of ledge to prevent loss from are adjustable for the length of the saw blade, although rolling of hard-to-handle parts. Top surface all jewelers' saw blades I've had seem to be the same has 3 coats of polyurethane. Features eye length. However, the adjustment is necessary for set­ level work area, 19 drawers in assorted sizes, ting the tension of the blade as it should not be too tight (it can be more easily broken) nor too loose (for it cannot and catch-all tray withheavy canvas covering. be controlled when making cuts while following scribe Measures 38-3/4''W x 20"D x 39"H. marks forming straight lines or curves). Figure 1A shows the jewelers' saw; point a shows the set screw that holds the adjustment for saw blade length. Saw blades come in various sizes from the ~----.m smallest (8/0), which is .0063 inch thick x .0125 inch wide, to 7/0, 6/0, 5/0, 4/0, 3/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1, 1-1/2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, and the largest 14, which is .0236 inch thick and .0690 wide. I have done almost any kind and type ofjewelry repair, and use only 2/0, 3/0, 4/0, and 6/0 sizes, and these I buy by the gross (although a minimum order is one dozen of a size). As 4/0 is the size that I use most often, they are replaced more frequently, and I always buy premium blades even though the cur-

00 Stock # BN-225 $469. List Price $495. 00

Call or FAX/or Free Tool, Findings, and Watch Catalogs! ,i!}J) cso~)°47~~271 s* ~... To/' f~ee . 24 Hour fAX Orders 1 1 I 1 ,, ' • (800_) 476-801 ~ 6~ 1 'l'i ' I T,ampa (813)229-2715 Loc~I Fax (813)221-8016 MJI St.at.I$ Toll FrH lncludfng Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, Figure 3. a) soldering pad; b) third hand tool. 0192 and -~· Virgin lmnc/$ · I !, j

February 1992/Horological Times 19 rent cost is about $20 per gross. Economy blades can be use then banned. Asbestos is nonflammable and is a bought for as little as $5 per gross. The premium blades good insulator. The flame of a hot torch could be applied cut true, faster, and they last longer, barring accident. directly on it and the heat would not go through to the The cheap blades often will have a tendency to wander bench top. It was also fairly clean to use and could be off the scribed line, and as they do not cut as fast, they bought in a round metal pan (Figure 3a) and filled with are not as sharp, or the teeth may not be cut on the a strip of asbestos about an inch wide, wrapped in a correct angle. This causes the user to exert more pres­ circle large enough to fill the pan, leaving the edge as a sure, which leads to broken blades. A big help in making flat top surface which can be penetrated with pins to any saw blade cut smoother is to use a little beeswax on hold work in place while soldering. Asbestos also could the sides and smooth top of the blade which furnishes be bought in sheets 1/2 inch thick which could be cut in lubrication, but if used on the teeth will fill the teeth squares about 6"x6" which would serve the same pur­ with beeswax and will not cut as well until enough heat pose, but would be harder to fasten work with pins. is generated to melt it. I use mostly number 4/0 blades, Since asbestos is banned, the jewelry material and tool second with 3/0, and third 6/0, and seldom use the 2/0. suppliers have similar pads that are nonasbestos and I keep three saw frames using the one I like best with the nonflammable with good insulating qualities, only they 4/0 and the 3/0 in another, and the 6/0 in another; these are much dirtier to use. There are other soldering pads three frames are always within my reach when working that are nonasbestos, including a ceramic type. These at the bench. 5-1/4 inch is the regular length of saw will all stand heat without catching fire, and if work is blades, so once the saw is set up and the blade adjusted left on them to cool, it will cool slowly, reducing damage for tension, it is not necessary to change the tension to stones from cooling too quickly. As these are great for adjustment when a new blade is installed. The popular general soldering, it has been my experience that they depth for a saw frame is 2-1/4 inches, but frames can be are too dirty on which to place a fine chain for soldering, bought in depths of 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8 inches for sawing so the ceramic is better for this. I have found that fire wider material. I have found with the 2-1/4 inch depth, brick works well for this and other soldering operations, however, that materials up to four inches can be cut, and and it is very easy to keep clean. It comes in some as thin wider materials up to eight inches can be cut by turning as one inch thick, and in sizes such as 6 x 10 inches, the work around and sawing from the other end. which is ideal for use on the jewelers' bench. Fire brick The RING CLAMP (Figure lC) can be used to can usually be found at a builders supply where they hold work while sawing and filing, and as it has leather handle brick and tile. Charcoal soldering blocks are also jaws it will not mar the surfaces on polished material. available from your tool and material distributor in They are easy to use, quick to set up, and comfortable to small (3-1/2 x 2-1/4 inches), medium (4-1/2 x 3 inches), hold while sawing or filing. and large (7 x 4 inches). Charcoal glows under flame and The RING MANDREL and RAWHIDE MAL­ reflects heat back to the work. It is soft enough to LET (Figures lD and lE) are necessary when doing penetrate with pins to hold work while soldering. ringwork, especially sizing. This is because the ringcan FILES are essential tools ifdoingjewelry work. be rounded after the hard soldering is done and the raw­ Anyone doingjewelry crafting and repair should have a hide mallet will not mar any finish. The mandrels come good set of files. The minimum amount offiles should be in smooth graduated, sizes 1 to 15, and marked in 1/4 two six-inch half round ring files, two flat hand files sizes; grooved graduated in sizes 1 to 15, also marked in with at least one edge safe (smooth edge); one of each 1/4 sizes; and smooth with no graduations and no should be a fine cut, and the other a coarse cut. You groove. The reason for the groove is primarily for use should have a set of eight needle files. I use mostly #3 with rings containing stones with a culet, which some­ cut, which is fairly coarse for a needle file. Beyond the times protrudes into the inside circle of the ring. Ifthese essentials, there are many other files that I have, are put on a smooth mandrel, the stone will be forced out including a 12-inch hand file (coarse) that can be used of the seat, or it will even break the stone. Always when to remove a lot of metal in a little while. I also have a using the mandrel on stone-set rings make sure the barette file (medium cut) that can file places that cannot stone is over the groove. be worked with a flat file or a half round. When rebuild­ A CHUCK HAND VISE is handy for holding ing ladies' engagement rings and new side plates are wire or tubing or anything round while sawing or filing. installed to correct the wear from wearing two rings It is also good for holding drills or burs when hand together, some customers want the places pierced to drilling or bur cutting is preferable to using the flex­ look like they originally did. As these have to be square shaft tool. The one shown in Figure lF is a tool that I and rectangular holes and are so small that even needle cannot find listed in current catalogs, but there are files cannot be used, there are riffiers available in most similar tools available that will do the same work as this any shape or curve needed to square these pierced holes one. after they are drilled. They can be ordered individually SOLDERING PADS are not only useful but or by the set, and cost about $12-$15 each. Rotary files necessary to protect the bench top if your soldering is are also available that can be used in the flex-shaft tool. done with a torch. They are available in several differ­ They can also be found in different sizes and shapes. ent materials and shapes. The old pads were asbestos Outside of the basic necessary tools, it is wise to before it was determined to be a cause of cancer and its buy only what you know that you will use often enough

20 Horological Times/February 1992 for it to pay for itself. I have many tools that have never been used except maybe a couple of times and then have been put away because too much time is lost in getting Precision them out to use. Usually the same job can be done using Crystal Cutting Co. the basic necessary tools that are right at my fingertips. In the next article, we will discuss some of the ''For All Your Watch Crystal Needs" problems that we encounter when trying to alter and repair promotional jewelry. D SAME DAY SERVICE SATISFACTION GUARANTEED ON ALL WORK Suppliers of Expert Crystal Cutter All Major Crystals With 10 Years Experience LOWEST BUY• SELL Prices in the Country

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February 1992/Horological Times 21 Technically 1992 WATCHES ©

Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author)

1992 Antique Watch Restoration © Part LXXIV Using the Depthing 'lbol to Correct Center Distances

hen restoring antique watches, the depthing the mating gears for correct meshing in the process of W tool becomes a necessary tool for the watch­ correcting the faulty center distances between the gears. maker. Many times the depthing between wheels and The depthing tool can also be used to determine pinions, especially in old watches, is found to be faulty. ifa pair of gears are not designed to work together. This This may be due to fault in manufacturing or because situation can be present if someone has placed a gear someone has changed the depthing in repairing the into a watch that was not designed to mesh with the watch. In either case, a depthing tool is needed to check mating gear. A gear may be the wrong one for a watch

FIGURE 1

--A

22 Horological Times/February 1992 because it is too small or too large in diameter for the runners. View I shows one of these runners. One end of center distance, the wrong number of teeth or leaves, or each runner has a female center and the other end has improper shape to the teeth or leaves. a sharp male center. View J shows one of the binding screws for the runners. DEPTHING TOOL WITH DRILLED RUNNER GUIDE HOLES DEPTHING TOOL Figure 1 shows one style of depthing tool. The runners WITH "V" GROOVE RUNNER BEDS of this tool are located in drilled holes running through Another style ofdepthing tool is shown in Figure 2. This the jaws of the tool parallel to each other. A description tool is basically the same as the tool described in Figure of the depthing tool is as follows. View A shows the front 1 except instead of the runners being held in drilled jaw of the tool and View B shows the back jaw. The two holes, they are held in "V" grooves milled in the jaws of jaws are held together at their bottom by a hinge and the tool. This method of holding the runners is usually hinge pin C. The jaws are opened and closed by turning more accurate than using holes for the runners. The the knob and adjusting the screw shown at D. The end reason for this is that "V" grooves can be milled more ofthe adjusting screw goes against the inside of the back accurately than holes can be drilled. A drill is likely to jaw to control the distance the jaws are spread apart. run when a hole is beingdrilled which would cause the This screw is tensioned by block E of the tool. This block runners to be out of parallel with each other. When the is fastened to the front of the front frame with a screw. hole method is used, the holes should be drilled slightly The block is threaded for the adjusting screw and split undersized and then reamed to exact size for the run- to allow the thread to be tightened on the adjusting ners. screw by tightening screw F. When "V" grooves are milled in the jaws for the View G, Figure 1 shows the flat back spring of runners, the jaws should already be hinged together the tool which tensions the backjaw against the end of before the "V" grooves are milled. the adjusting screw. The ends of this spring are held in A description of the depthing tool that is shown a tensioned position on the tool by two brass straps, one in Figure 2 is as follows. View A shows one of the four of which is shown in View H. The depthing tool has four runner retainer caps removed from a jaw of the tool.

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February 1992/Horological Times 23 This cap holds the runner tightly in its "V" groove. The be corrected if possible or discarded. First, the runners cap is held in position on the jaw of the tool with the two should be checked to make sure that their centers are on screws shown at B. The cap is tightened down on the center with the diameter of the runners. This can be runner by the hand screw C. The runner is shown at D. done in the watchmakers lathe by chucking each end of An end view of the jaw showing the "V" groove is shown each runner true in a wire chuck. The runners should in View F. be chucked close to their ends. If the points of the male centers are off center, they should be reground so they CHECKING THE ACCURACY are sharp and on center. If the female centers of the OF A DEPTHING TOOL runners are off center, they must be recut. This can Before using a depthing tool, its accuracy should be usually be done with a sharp pointed carbide graver. If checked. Ifthe depthingtool is not accurate, it is almost the runner is too hard for the graver, the very end of the useless to the watchmaker. Ifit is not accurate, it should runner can be tempered so it can be recut with the

FIGURE2

FIGURE3

24 Horological Times/February 1992 graver. Note: The runners are usually made of blue for the runners were not drilled straight or the depthing steel but sometimes the runners are harder than blue tool frame has changed shape since the holes were steel and are difficult to cut with a graver. drilled. In either case, the only way to correct the After the centers are made true, the runners situation is to spring the frame ofthe tool so the runners should be checked between dead centers to see if they do line up. This is a most difficult task since it is hard to are bowed or bent. A "T" rest can be set up close to the do a controlled bend. Before attempting this, one should runner, parallel to the runner, and used as an indicator make sure that the bend is proper to correct the situ­ while rotating the runner with the finger between ation; otherwise one could wind up increasing the centers. Ifbends or bows cannot be eliminated from the problem. runners, they should be remade from straight blue steel rod. USING THE DEPTHING TOOL Next, one should place the runners back in the Figure 3 shows the depthing tool being used. A pair of depthingtool, makingsure that they fit the holes closely gears which work together are set between the centers and can be moved freely back and forth in their holes in of the tool as shown; then adjusting screw A is used to the frame ofthe tool. Then one should check the distance adjust the distance between the centers so the wheel between the male centers at both ends of the jaws to see and pinion mesh together correctly. The inset in Figure if they are the same distance apart. Note: Before check­ 3 shows this condition. ing the distance between centers, one should set the When checking the meshing of the wheel and runners so their ends are even with each other; other­ pinion, one should turn the wheel with the finger while wise the measurement will be inaccurate. This distance the end of the thumbnail is held against the arbor of the may be checked with a fine scaled steel ruler. Now the pinion being turned by the meshing wheel. This causes distances between the centers of the female centers resistance to turning which allows one to feel the mesh­ should be checked. This can be done with a small pair of ing. The meshing should be smooth if the depthing is set dividers. The points of the dividers are set exactly on correctly. There will be a rough, choppy motion felt ifthe center with the female centers; then the distance be­ meshing is set too deep or too shallow. tween the points of the dividers is checked on the ruler scale. If the distance beween the centers of the runners DEPTH THAT IS SET TOO SHALLOW should be uneven, there is a good chance that the holes View A, Figure 4 shows a depth that is set too shallow .

• . • . . . . UNAVAILABLE ..•...... OBSOLETE ...... DISCONTINUED .•..•••

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February 1992/Horological Times 25 FIGURE5 FIGURE 4 A

-A B

c

ates drop in the action of the wheel and pinion. Also, in this case, the pitch of the wheel becomes too great forthepitch of the pinion. In this case, the pitch circle of the wheel is overlapping the pitch circle of the pinion. This condition will cause a rough, choppy action be­ tween the wheel teeth and the pinion leaves. This is similar to a condition where the wheel is too large for the pinion.

This indicates that the pitch circle of the pinion is not CORRECT DEPTHING touching the pitch circle of the wheel. In this case, there View C, Figure 4 shows a more correct depthing. In this will be a butting action between the wheel teeth and the case, the pitch circle of the wheel and the pitch circle of ends ofthe pinion leaves, especially when the pinion has the pinion are just touching at the center line between a low number of leaves. When this condition exists, the the two gears. When this condition exists, the wheel and motion between the wheel and the pinion will be rough pinion should run smoothly together without noise or and choppy. The depthing tool jaws should be closed roughness. When the depthing tool is set so the wheel slightly to correct this situation. Note: Ifthe pinion is too and pinion work the smoothest, then this is the correct large for the diameter of the wheel, the pitch of the center distance for the two gears. pinion becomes greater than the pitch of the wheel which also causes a butting action. TRANSFERRING THE CORRECT DEPTHING TO THE WATCH PLATE DEPTH THAT IS SET TOO DEEP After the depthing tool has been set correctly, this When a depth is set too deep, as shown in View B, Figure measurement is transferred to the watch plate. This is 4, there is usually a butting between an oncoming shown in Figure 5. pinion leaf and a wheel tooth. This condition also ere- When using the points of the runners for trans-

26 Horological Times/February 1992 ferring their setting to the watch plate, the points THE BEAM COMPASS should be made even so the depthing tool will be in Figure 6 shows a watchmakers beam compass. This tool a vertical position as shown in Figure 5; otherwise the is used for scribing arcs and circles in establishing measurement will not be correct. The points on the points for pivot holes. The points of this tool may be set runners can be used to check the distance between the to a given measurement from a ruler scale or to the two pivot holes in which the two gears work for which distance between the female centers ofthe depthingtool the depthing tool was set. and then transferred to the watch plate and arcs scribed If one is locating a new pivot hole on the plate, for the point where the new pivot hole will need to be. the point of one runner is placed in the good pivot hole The following is a description of the beam com­ while the point of the other runner is used to scribe an pass. View A shows the beam of the compass. The ad­ arc on the plate or a plug in the plate. Somewhere on this justable jaw of the compass is shown in View B. The lead arc will be a position for the new pivot hole. Now by screw for adjusting the spread of the jaws is shown in placing this wheel and the wheel that it drives in the View C. The screw and knob for binding the adjustable depthing tool, one can establish the correct center jaw into position on the beam of the compass is shown in distance between these two gears. Then a point of one View D. View E shows the bearing plate for supporting runner is placed in the third pivot hole while an arc is the pivot on the end of the lead screw. This plate is held scribed across the first arc. Where the two arcs cross will in position on the end of the beam with a screw. View F be the point for the new pivot hole. shows the knob on the end of the lead screw. View G The depthing tool can be used in the reverse shows the male pivoting center for the compass. View H order; that is, the runners can be set for two pivot holes. shows the binding screw for the male center. The center Then the two gears involved can be placed in the on the adjustable jaw of the tool is shown in View I. The depthing tool to see if they mesh coprectly. binding screw for this center is shown in View J. View When using the depthing tool for establishing K shows the handle of the beam compass. the depthing between gears that have large pivot holes, a runner which has a larger male center is used. This "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next month. runner is shown in View A, Figure 5. D

The new QTM 901 is the most complete diagnostic test meter on the market. FIGURE 6 It is designed by a watchmaker, for a watch­ maker, and is watchmaker affordable. The QTM 901 tests: 1) Magnetic pickup of coil. 2) Battery and circuit output voltages. 3) Current consumption. 4) Coil resistance. 5) Watch mechanically. It has a variable voltage power supply, is easy to use (one -K 7-position switch), and video tapes are available for demonstrations. Available from most material supply houses. THE BEST PART! F All this for only $395.00! I

For information, call or write:

FINN TIME PRODUCTS, INC. 200 Lake Avenue Suite202 Lake Worth, FL 33460 (407) 533-1103

February 1992/Horological Times 21 • PC Clock is also a full-featured digital clock program BULLETIN that displays the date and time in big digits in your choice of80 colorful designs supplied with the program BOARD plus up to 20 designs you create yourself. • Useful as well as fun to watch, PC Clock includes manual as well as automatic setting, seconds display, A. NEW REQUESTS 12- and 24-hour modes, an alarm, and an optional Big Ben hourly chime. CAMBRIDGE QUARTZ CLOCK • Add PC Clock to your Autoexec.bat file to check the Milo Bresley, Bloomington, MN, is seeking a service agent date and time whenever you restart your PC. or distributor who can provide a new movement for a clock • Run PC Clock whenever you need to set your he describes as follows: computer's clock, or run it just to pass the time when­ The clock measures 3-1/8" high, 2-3/16" wide, and everyou and your computer are not otherwise engaged. 1-15/16" deep. The dial measures 1-3/16" in diameter with • PC Clock requires a CGA, EGA, VGA, MCGA, or Roman numerals and "Made in England" in the lower compatible color display. A 1200-bps (or faster) modem circular part of the dial. The face opening is 2-3/16" high is required for automatic time setting. and 1-11/32" wide. The word CAMBRIDGE is approxi­ mately 3/8" below the dial numbers. The program is available through many "Electronic Bulle­ A rubbing taken from the back of the quartz tin Boards" around the country. As a shareware product, it movement reveals that the movement is German; it also can be legally copied and shared by anyone. However, ifyou has a lower case "e" in the upper left-hand corner of a find the program useful and will be using it beyond a 30-day capital letter "J" and the number 987. Another rubbing period, the author requests a $10.00 registration fee. The appears as follows: registration fee supports further development. Anyone can send $10.00 to the author: M.J. Sada­ way, Box 128-P, South Walpole, MA 02071 and become a registered user. Mr. Sadaway will mail the most current copy of the program and a detailed "user's guide." Not Actual Size

SOUND FROM CHIME RODS C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED Harry Carlson, Minneapolis, MN, works for a chime clock company where floor and wall clocks are made. They assemble sound boards, seat boards, and movements into CONSORT WATCH units for installing into cases. Mr. Carlson writes: Jim Stanley, Fort Wayne, IN, is seeking a distributor and/ We have increasing problems with the quality of or service agent for the "Consort" watch. sound from the chime rods. The notes are far from true, not very musical, and not much volume. I'm sure the quality of LECOULTRE CALIBRE T813 the metal in the rods and the configuration of the rod blocks Lora Clemence, Johnston, RI, is seeking spare parts and have something to do with this. The sound boards are the service information for a LeCoultre calibre T813. Since the same. Jaeger LeCoultre Service Department cannot supply, we Do you or anyone you know have any words of hope a "Bulletin Board" reader will have this information. wisdom for us? Is there any written information available on the subject? ETERNA-MATIC WATCH MOVEMENTS This may not exactly be a "Bulletin Board" item, but Jim Lubic is in need of a variety of Eterna-Matic watch move­ B. RESPONSES ments for use in Project Extend. We can offer you a tax credit for any you care to donate to our training program. This month we had no responses to the single new request published in January, namely the Urgos Crystal Cage ULYSSE NARDIN BROCHURES & CATALOGS Strike Clock; however, we continued to receive responses to Marvin E. Whitney, Alexandria, VA, is researching mate­ other items and have passed those responses on to the rial for articles he is preparing about the famous Ulysse persons involved. An interesting item was received from Nardin firm. He is interested in pamphlets, brochures, and Charles Tache, Plano, TX, regarding a computer program catalogs dealing with watches and chronometers produced which may interest some "Bulletin Board" readers. by this firm. One catalog in particular was published about 1920 by Bigalke & Eckert Company, 527 Fifth Ave., New PC CLOCK York, NY. They were the sole U.S. agent for Ulysse N ardin PC Clock is a computer program which does the following: during that period. A reprint of this catalog is available; however, Mr. Whitney seeks an original for the purpose of • PC Clock sets your computer's date and time reproducing some of the photographs and illustrations. quickly, conveniently, and accurately via modem--it Any materials loaned to Mr. Whitney will receive the calls the National Institute of Standards and Technol­ special care they deserve and providers will be acknowl­ ogy's atomic clock in Boulder, CO. edged in the finished articles.

28 Horological Times/February 1992 SETH THOMAS GRANDFATHER CLOCK Milo W. Bresley, Bloomington, MN, is inquiring about a Seth Thomas grandfather clock. The clock case measures 7 feet, 3 inches high without the top finial. He has been told there were claw feet on the base. He would like to know the shape and size of the top finial and the shape of the base feet. If anybody has knowledge of the clock, Mr. Bresley would appreciate a photo and measurements of the finial and the feet. One photo is of the case front view; the other is of the rear view showing the movement at the top and the bell unit in the bottom. The bell unit was manufactured by The Regina Company, Rathway, NJ. It was set up to play only one tune after each hour strike of the clock. The unit has 14 bells and plays six different tunes.

Do you have information regarding this month's requests?

Do you need information about one of this month's responses?

H so, send a self-addressed, stamped business-size envelope and your request to: "Bulletin Board," c/o AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211. 0

700 THE WATCH BAND COMPANY State 702 Overlook Avenue Street Cincinnati, Ohio 45238 Day: (800) 927-7832 ~ Fax: (513) 651-5624 #8000 - REMBORDE GATOR GRAIN Ouincy BLK 1Bmm __ X $1.75 BLK 20mm __ X $1.75 IL BRN 16mm __ X $1.75 --- Gem City College BRN 18mm __ X $1.75 " -- 62301 #8000 - GATOR GRAIN BRN 20mm __ X $1.75 -· Where Time Can Equal Money ' , . . - ----\ . - ·- -- #LBOO-LONG • Watchmaking (217) BLK 18mm __ X $2.00 • Jewelry #S600 - PADDED BLK 20mm __ X $2.00 •Engraving • Jewelry Store 222- GATOR GRAIN #5600 - PADDED GATOR GRAIN • Clock Repair Management 0391 BRN 1Bmm __ X $2.50 BRN 18mm --X $2.50 = -- BLK 1Bmm __ X $2.50 BLK 18mm __ X $2.50 - __

QUALITY DIAL ACCESSORY #7000 - LIZARD GRAIN #7000 - REMBORDE LIZARD GRAIN ---- .a- ....__ - -- •. BRN 16mm --X $1.75 SUPPLIES TO MANUFACTURER - -:·&: _J -- BRN 18mm __ x $1.75 --- *Pre-set Diamond Findings BLK 1Bmm __ x $1.75 BLK 18mm __ X $1.75 - Available BLK 20mm __ X $1.75 #0130 - LIZARD GRAIN *Special Order in Any Style #0130 - STITCHED LIZARD GRAIN *Wholesale Only BRN Smm --X $1.75 BRN 10mm --X $1.75 BRN 12mm __ X $1.75 BRN 14mm __ X $1.75

For more information, please send trade credentials to: TOTAL CHARLIE PRECISION INDUSTRY 6 MONTH WARRANTY SATISFACTION GUARANTEED 5269-24 Buford Hwy. $10 TO $14 SUG. RETAIL Postage paid on pre-paid orders. Atlanta, GA 30340 Fax: (404) 451-0355

February 1992/Horological Times 29 SHOPTALK

Wes Door, CMW

HOW TO START & MANAGE A BUSINESS PART VI BUYING WATCH INVENTORY

n starting a business we must decide not only any purchase. Our available funds will be a strong I what kind of merchandise we want to carry, guide in helping us to make an intelligent decision. but the kind of items and the proper amount of these items. A LOW PRICE WATCH LINE Let's start with watches. Since we are watch­ We may choose to additionally carry a lower priced makers we will want a good stock of our favorite line. This will give us a much better price range and, watch lines. We need to if handled right, should not detract from the higher decide how many watch ticketed items generated from our main line. I need to brands we want to carry, LET'S SEE I'LL interject a personal experience here--a testimonial, if and then how many of TAKE ONE OF THOSE. you will! We have found by our experience that since each. (See Figure 1.) Un­ TWO OF THESE we have added a low-priced watch line, we have like some businesses like AND . ___ _ increased all of our watch sales in our store. Inciden­ auto dealers, we will prob­ tally, the line we carry is repairable and has a good ably carry more than one movement for the price. line; however, we may choose to With proper handling, we feel that sales are start out with just one line so that gained and not lost. The person who wants the we can carry a larger number of higher priced watch will still buy one. Having the watches in this one main line. Figure 1 lower priced line in stock stops the person who wants to say, "Thanks, but I just want to look around OUR MAIN WATCH LINE OR LINES for a cheaper watch." If we decide to carry a second line, it may be in We have been giving out very few "loaner" competition with the first line if it is the same quality watches also. We find we do not need them very often and price range. Our reason for considering two anymore. You know what a "loaner" watch is; it's the equal lines would be to have whichever brand the one we let the customer use while we are repairing customer wanted. As our store expands, we may theirs. The problem is that our loaners are so good want more brands for the same reason. So now we that it seems to take the customer quite a while to need to make that first big decision. Do we stick to remember to return them for their own timepiece. If just one main line and carry a better stock in this one we are out of a loaner, then our customer may want line, or go for two? to buy a spare watch from our low line selection to We should consider that having two equal use while their watch is being repaired. We plant the lines would be like an auto dealer having both Fords idea and sometimes it even blossoms into an extra and Chevrolets. You can sell to customers who have sale. their own preconceived brand in mind. On the other hand, used car dealers carry many brands. Ofcourse, PRIVATE LABEL BRAND even new auto dealerships have secondary lower A private label brand is another option. These are lines which are made by or are at least imported by ones that we buy having the dial imprinted with our their main line company. name. Usually these are in a medium price range and Financing is always a major consideration in with movements that we can personally guarantee.

30 Horological Times/February 1992 Naturally, we want to guarantee them; after all, they have our name on the dial. We may even carry some Figure 2 backup movements so we can personally service any problem that may occur.

LET'S BUY WATCHES Purchasing our opening order may be the hardest job we will do. If we have a good salesman, this may be helpful, especially if we can lay the ground rules. First rule: We have decided that we will spend X number of dollars for our main watch line. The salesman knows that he/she will make only acer­ tain sized sale; therefore they should be willing to work with us in making this initial purchase. The salesman might respond by telling us what their minimum opening order must be. If this is still within our budget, we may proceed With our buyihg. more full-figured dial watches from our low line, so We need to be as scientific as possible in our this fills that need. selections. We must pick what we like personally, plus those styles that we really think will sell. We INVENTORY FORM also need to listen to our salesman. We are continu­ Figure 2 shows a common inventory form. We need ally playing a guessing game With ourselves. to list all of our purchases on a form like this or enter After being in business a few years we will it into our computer. By keeping track of the watches establish some inventory purchasing habits based we sell, we will soon know the ones to restock. Once on past experiences. We will then know that in our we have some personal experiences, we will be better store we sell 40% men's and 60% ladies' watches (or able to place future orders. whatever the figures are). We will also know what Good luck in the new world of purchasing percent of white and what percent of yellow to stock, watch lines. O how many sweep second nurse's watches, how many granny watches for older ladies who have trouble reading petite 5-ligne dials, how many full-figured dial watches (the ones with all the numbers instead Your tax-deductible donation of old watch of those neat looking markers), and how many water movements (complete or partial) will in­ resistant and dress watches to stock. sure a supply of spare parts for present A good salesman can be very helpful on this first order. The salesman's experiences and previous and future watchmakers who restore and sales records will indicate certain trends. It is most service vintage watches. important to know what other accounts our sales­ Send to: man has in our area. We may base part of our AWi ELM Trust Movement Bank decision to buy a certain line based on the number of c/ o AWi Central other competitors who also share the benefits of our 3700 Harrison Ave. advertising this product, etc. Cincinnati, OH 45211 Now the prices ... I mean the retail price. We must continually think from the other side of the counter ... you know, the customer's side. Let's see now, do we have a good variety in various price WATCHMAKERS--JEWELERS--CLOCKMAKERS! ranges? We must be careful not to have too many in GENUINE: the same price range. Bulova - Longines - Omega - Seiko - Pulsar - Rolex In buying our low price line we should decide WATCH MATERIALS & CRYSTALS the price range and stay within this range, being sure ALSO CARRYING THE FULL LINE OF: it does not overlap too much with our regular main G.S. Crystals, L&R Cleaning Solutions Cleaning and Timing Machines, VIGOR BESTFIT and line. If our low-priced line is needed to fill a gap in the HAMMEL RIGLANDER PRODUCTS $15.00 to$50.00 range, we must besureandnotbuy the top end of this line unless we want to be in I am small enough to try very hard to please you . competition with ourselves. NYJ We have found that our low-priced line has SUPPLY COMPANY several models of LCD and other feature watches Watch Material, Jewelers Supplies & Accessories that our better lines simply do not make anymore. So 87 Nassau Street Room 208 we buy these for our low line and make these sales New York, NY• 10038 (212) BA7-6677 that we would not otherwise make. Also, we can buy

February 1992/Horological Times 31 WATCHE~ Robert D. Porter, CMW

A Minerva Stopwatch

he repair of stopwatches (or T timers) can be a good source of extra income. Quite a few mechanical timers are in use by schools, industry, and sporting associations, and require service from time to time. The Minerva 1/lOOth second stopwatch shown in Figure 1 is a good example of a three-function (start, stop, and return to zero) timer. Figure 2 is a view of the 19 ligne, 7-jewel, model 14 movement. It is well finished in the Minerva (Swiss) tradition. This watch had a broken balance staff, and needed cleaning and lubricating. The mainspring is being let down in Figure 3 by holding the click away from the ratchet wheel with tweezers while the crown is allowed to slip through the fingers. Figure 1 The screw holding the stem in Figure2 place is being backed out in Figure 4 so the stem and crown assembly can be removed from the watch. One of the two movement re­ taining screws is being taken out in Figure 5. The other screw is diametri­ cally across from this one. The move­ ment is out of the case in Figure 6, giving us a better view of the dial. The sweep hand will make one complete revolution in three seconds. Each sec­ ond is divided into tenths and hun­ Figure 3 Figure4 dredths of a second. The smaller regis­ ter dial is graduated in three-second Figure 7 shows one of the two foot. The other dial screw is diametri­ increments and records up to 90 sec­ dial retaining screws being rotated in a cally opposite from this one. The dial onds of elapsed time. This timer is clockwise direction (as if to tighten the and hands have been carefully lifted as designed to precisely time events of screw) until the cutaway part of the a unit from the movement in Figure 8. relatively short duration. screw is in position to release the dial Do not attempt to pull the hands on 32 Horological Times/February 1992 Figures Figure7 20 '~

Figure 6

Figures

Figure 10

Figure9

Figure II Figure 13 this type of timer with a regular hand puller or a damaged dial and/ or bro­ ken hand puller could result. Timer Figure I2 hands are fitted very tightly to heart cams and are best removed with a position. special hand puller which will be shown Figure 10 is a view under the later in the article. The hands are usu­ dial. Minerva makes use of coil springs ally not separated from the dial, except in their movements to provide the to replace a cam spring or to reposition muscle to activate the various levers; a a hand. reliable and trouble-free arrangement. The back of the dial with the The hairspring stud screw is Figure 14 two heart cams to which the hands are being backed out in Figure 11. The attached is shown in Figure 9. Each balance bridge screw is being taken out around the circumference of the bal­ heart cam has a small clip type spring in Figure 12 so the balance wheel and ance wheel, as well as the thickness of which provides enough friction against its bridge can be lifted from the move­ the hairspring with its few coils. A thewheelarboronwhichitfitstoallow ment in Figure 13. mental note was made that the hair­ it to be driven by the wheel and still The rather unusual balance and spring stud is located ten "notches" to allow the cam to slip on the arbor when hairspring assembly is shown in Fig­ the right of the edge of the balance arm. the hand is being returned to the zero ure 14. Please notice the small notches The hairspring is being lifted from the

February 1992/Horological Times 33 Figure 15

Figure 16 Figure 17

Figure 18

balance staff in Figure 15. A centering punch was used to make an almost imperceptible dot on the underside of the balance rim in line with the roller jewel before the combination roller table was removed from the staff, as shown in Figures 16 and 17. That portion of the balance staff that was staked over the balance arm is being removed with a carbide graver Figure 19 Figure 20 in Figure 18. A hole that best fits the hub of the balance staff has been aligned in the round as the balance was rotated in its staff, its stud positioned over the tenth staking tool and a balance staff remover jewels with a blower. The adjustment notch on the rim of the wheel. used (Figure 19) to hold the balance flat options are limited with a screwless Figures 23 through 26 show and firm while a punch is used to push solid balance. What you see is what various views as the watch was taken the staff out of the wheel. you get, so to speak, so it is important apart. Figure 27 is a good view of the A new staff has been positioned to be as careful as possible during the train layout. in the staking tool and a round-faced staffing operation. After removing the The pallet fork and escape wheel hollow punch is being used in Figure balance assembly from the watch, the were cleaned with pithwood and 20 to stake the staff into place. A flat­ roller jewel was then aligned with the Rodico®. Our reason for not cleaning faced hollow punch was then used to dot on the underside of the balance rim the pallet fork and escape wheel ultra­ complete the staking operation. The and the roller pressed into place, as sonically is because some manufactur­ balance assembly was then put back shown in Figure 21. ers treat these components with a spe­ into the movement and found to be Figure 22 illustrates the press­ cial lubricant retaining (epilame) proc­ acceptable for trueness in the flat and ing of the hairspring onto the balance ess that ultrasonic cleaning might 34 Horological Times/February 1992 Figure23

Figure21 Figure22

Figure 26

Figure24 Figure25

Figure28 remove. I don't know that Minerva does this to their watches, but assumed they may have. The rest of the move­ ment was then cleaned ultrasonically. The acting faces of the pallet stones were later lubricated with Moebius 01- 207 while the pallet fork was being assembled to the watch. Figures 28 through 32 show the train wheels and mainspring barrel Figure29 being put into place on the dial plate. Figure 33 is a good view of the simple and efficient winding pinion, clutch, and spring assembly.

Figure 27

Figure32

Figure30 Figure31

February 1992/Horological Times 35 Figure34

Figure33 Figure35

shown whereby the factory has posi­ tioned the tips of the hands close to the dial to reduce parallax or viewing er- ror. A timer hand remover is shown Figure37 in Figure 43 to illustrate how it is used to push the heart cam out of the hand as pictured in Figure 44 (from another balance wheel when the crown is de­ stopwatch). The small clip spring can pressed to start the watch. This spring be seen that provides friction between Figure36 also engages the balance rim in the stop the heart cam and its arbor. These springs position. break sometimes and can be made from The upper large train bridge is Figures 38, 39, and 40 illustrate piano wire of like diameter, available in place in Figure 34--a dial screw is the start, stop, and return to zero posi­ from a machinist supply house, or hobby shown on the extreme right of the pic­ tions of the various components under shop. Do not lubricate the arbor where ture. the dial. the spring makes contact with it. Figure 35 is another view of The dial and hands are being The movement is back in its the balance wheel before it was as­ replaced in Figure 41. The heart cams case in Figure 45. The recommended sembled to the balance bridge in Figure have been started onto their arbors and method of usage is to hold the timer 36. Figure 37 shows the small coil spring the dial feet are in position over their and depress the crown in a manner used to engage the notches on the rim matching holes. The dial is in place in similar to shooting a pistol. The elapsed of the balance and to "kick-start" the Figure 42 and the profile of the hands is time shown on the timer is 9.65 sec-

Figure 38 Figure39 Figure40

36 Horological Times/February 1992 Figure42

A rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour of the balance wheel had been Figure41 assumed, which is considered a very quick train. I was surprised when it calculated out to an amazing 360,000 VPH. To prove this, the balance assem­ ands. bly was removed from the watch--the This is an interesting timer with crown pressed into the start position-­ a very quick train. It does not tick; it and the pallet fork moved back and buzzes-the balance wheel is a blur when forth 100 times. Sure enough, the sweep it is running. hand indicated exactly one second of Figure43 The train was counted which elapsed time resulted in the following information: Stopwatches like this Minerva are interesting to service, and are a good source of extra income as well. (R)60 x (3rd)50 x (4th)70 x (E)l5 x 2 (3P)10 x (4thP)10 x (EP)7 0

Dear Editor: 6,300,000 = The December issue of "Horol­ 700 ogical Times" recently arrived, and to my horror a few mistakes confuse the article. = 9000 vibrations in 90 seconds Please put a correction in your magazine = 1000 vibrations in 10 seconds to remedy the oversight. = 100 vibrations per second On page 32, right-hand column, = 6000 vibrations per minute line eight: The weight ofone cubic inch of = 360,000 vibrations per hour! water at 62 degrees Fahrenheit is 0.0361, and that of lead 11.342. Where: On page 33, right-hand column: The number of teeth and leaves in each wheel is: Figure44 1} = 0.127 x ~ W = 0.079 x fB ~ 0.08 x fB R (register), meshes with mainspring bar- 2 rel & 3rd wheel 60 not considered L = 0.349 x -P- ~ 0.35 x -t-Di

3rd 50 10 The~ means "is approximately equal to."

4th (mounted in cen- On page 34, top left corner, the ter wheel position, following statement was to follow: "Only and carries sweep if the mainspring barrel follows the '1I3 hand) 70 10 rule,' can the theoretical calculation be used." To compensate for the early setting Escape 15 7 ofa heavy mainspring and to avoid break­ age, the arbor can occupy 2 I 5 of the Number of impulses barrel diameter. Ship's chronometers use to balance wheel large arbors, and for a very thin spring per tooth of escape 1I4 ofthe barrel diameter may not cause wheel: 2 any problem. To calculate a mainspring:

Figure45 Gerhard Hutter

February 1992/Horological Times 37 In the section "Heroic Epoch," Pierre LeRoy and Book Review Ferdinand Berthoud, who some might rightfully con­ sider the unsung heroes of chronometry, are deservingly covered in great detail with fine drawings and photo­ MAR1NE & POCKET CHRONOMETERS,Historyand graphs. England's John Arnold, Thomas Earnshaw, Development by Hans Von Bertele. 9"x12", 311 pages, andMudge'sworkareillustratedanddiscussed.Eachof 391 B/W illustrations and photos. Pub. 1991 by Schiffer Harrison's "Four Steps to Longitude" are shown. A Publishing, W. Chester, PA 19380@ $165.00. reproduction wash drawing from the National Mari­ time Museum at Greenwich is shown picturing Harri­ This large book is an important addition to the library son's No. 1, set up in the captain's cabin aboard the of books on that monarch of portable timepieces--the Centurion. Page-sized, clear photographs which allow marine chronometer. Hans Von Bertelewas a dominant those who haven't been privileged to study the construc­ authority on the subject of horological history. His tion and excellence of workmanship of some of Ber­ editing of Basserman Jordon's The Book of Old Clocks thoud's and LeRoy's marine chronometers are also and Watches in 1961 upgraded that volume to a stan­ found in this section. There are other French makers of dard text. This latest book also displays quite a knowing the mid-18th century who may sound unfan;;iliar to hand in its text, layout, and comprehensiveness. many but they deserve inclusion, and are not neglected. In this book are 350 photos of 350 chronometers To prove that the marine chronometer drew the which were gathered from museums, private collec­ attention of all seafaring countries, interesting early tions, and auction galleries. The book has been divided examples of the 18th century from these countries are into five main sections on the basis of historical and photographically exhibited in page-sized views of such technical standpoints. The contents, however, begin timekeepers. These reveal views of products by such with I--The Problems of Longitude; II--Forerunners of makers as Larcum Kendall, Mudge, Arnold, Earnshaw, Mechanical Chronometers; III--The Heroic Epoch; IV-­ Harrison's various efforts, Fazy of Geneva and Moscow, Sea Travel & Geographical Discovery; V--The Epoch of and many lesser-known makers but whose work is wor­ Fine Mechanics; VI--Official Evaluations: Compilations, thy of inclusion in such an important documentation. Their Certificates and Certifications; VII--Chronome­ These reveal the admirable craftsmanship and beauty ter Development in the 20th Century; VIII--Tourbillons ofexecution and devotion to minute detail of their work. and Carousels. Likewise pictured are movements, some of which are With the advent of short-wave, electronic navi­ partially dismantled when their insides are pertinent to gation, the chronometer, except as an over-cautionary the text. Many photos are of chronometers not seen backup standby, no longer enjoys the importance it had before in other sources. for almost 200 years. Today they are collected as beau­ A chapter, "Sea Travels& Geographical Discov­ tifully constructed examples ofthe ultimate in mechani­ ery," uses older maps and accounts of adventurous cal precision timekeeping. Many come from the shops of explorations, some to far corners of the earth, including famous horologists. These display the famed skill and approaches to both polar regions. This is followed by the devotion of their makers and the various advances in chapter "The Epoch of Fine Mechanics," which dis­ mechanics, the physical sciences, metallurgy, and like cusses the differences in the workmanship of many many intense scientific discoveries, benefits which have masters over a hundred years. Here the "Middle Tem­ filtered down into many domestic uses. perature Error" is explained together with the numer­ The chapter on longitude, the 'raison d'etre' of ous attempts to solve this problem. Examples of such chronometry, contains some new, interesting accounts balances include 21 line drawings of as many balances of daring and adventurous explorations. This chapter and 14 excellent photographs of other identified bal­ clearly explains the problems of the earliest seafarers, ances. These reveal the ingenuity and at times the the primitive methods of navigation, the tragedies, and frustrations (or both) of many makers. Some achieved the fortunate successes. various degrees of success. There are various types and The author also supplies a clear exposition of shapes of hairsprings, including the double overcoil, how the knowledge of the latitude and longitude could glass, conical, spherical, cylindrical, which the author be determined if the scientific and mechanical means describes but omits the more popular labelling of'duo in were available. uno' for the cylindrical hairspring with inner terminal The following chapters review the advances of curves. the slow evolutionary process towards true chronom­ Breguet's contributions, escapements, and bal­ etry. The pendulum in clocks, the hairspring in watches, ances, as well as his tourbillons, can be found here, too. and the problems in keeping time ofany degree at sea is Jurgensen's double-wheeled escapements with spring covered with illustrations of old maps and drawings. detent are grouped in this chapter. Like all the photographs in this book, those showing the As for American chronometers, the author cred­ early developmental period of the marine chronometer its Marvin Whitney as the first to adequately describe are intelligently posed and very clearly reveal the heart and catalog the American chronometer makers, and of the subject at hand. Ideas and examples by Sully, Van some are shown. Ceulen, Rivaz, Deutertre, and others are pictured. Pocket chronometers from England and conti-

38 Horological Times/February 1992 nental makers are pictured with dials removed, as are analysis of this white metal, which, according to Mr. movement-side views. Arnold, as one ofthe most prolific Whitney (who, like this reviewer, has worked on these), makers of the early period, is well represented. the case is base metal plated, and frosted over to appear Various escapements used in chronometers are like aluminum. pictured and identified both photographically and with This deck watch deserves some further men­ fine line drawings. Many German chronometers are tion. The late Ernest Drescher, the engineer who is generously pictured in large, clear photographs in views responsible for its design and its covering patents, which best reveal their individuality. Some are ofeight­ declared that should more chronometers be needed, the day duration and others with constant-force devices. model 22 deck watch would more than suffice in time­ Chronometers by Motel are not neglected. Motel was an keeping. He loaded the barrel with a six-foot main­ ingenious graduate of Breguet and at times produced spring, obviating the need for a stopwork since the some rather involved but never dull chronometers. spring could only be wound for about 50 hours. How­ Those by Ulrich with his involved constant-force de­ ever, the result also was its power to the balance and the vices are also found here, as are those by Croucher, resulting arc for the duration of its running time, and Edwards, and Hunter, in addition to chronometrists virtually no change in the balance's amplitude could be from other European countries. distinguished, thus also obviating the need for a fusee. The coverage ofchronometers is greater than in The Mercer 20th century products are also rep­ any other book published to date. Regarding the four­ resented in many chapters of this book. A final chapter balanced Conant-Tiffany chronometer, Conant's claim is most interesting, "Tourbillons and Carousels." The is not clear; his August 1887 patent is for a differential origin, drawings, and variations of this curious but ef­ which allowed different trains of a pendulum clock to fective position-error reducer is illustrated, with draw­ indicate a common time; a four-pendulum clock by ings and many photographs of outstanding examples. Howard might have been his contribution, but this Helwig introduced a sturdy bearing for the fourth chronometer might possibly have been made by Ferdi­ pinion and eliminated a bridge to provide a jeweled nand Haschka, Tiffany's head watchmaker who is cred­ bearing for the upper balance bridge or cock. This at ited with producing such items to special order at the times is referred to as a "flying" tourbillon. The advan­ turn of the century, including an order from the Vander­ tage, if any, appears more aesthetic and eye-catching-­ bilts for a quadruple sweep second chronograph. but also vulnerable. Yet it has appeal as an example of Strangely, of the chronometers with four balances, each the maker's skill. Many such examples were master with its own power-barrel and fusee, only one has a graduation pieces from the Glashutte school, some of balance with a mid-temperature affix. which are shown in this section. A 30-page chapter, "Official Valuations," de­ The karrusel of Bonniksen is also pictured as scribes competitions, certification, testing organizations, are regular tourbillons with upper and lower pivoting in which appears standards and the various observato­ bearings. Some show these partially dismantled for ries' testing agencies and their standards. better understanding individualistic details. The more A later chapter chronicles the development of recent tourbillons with "flying" carriages of A.G. Ran­ these boxed instruments in the 20th century, and of dall as well as his earlier biaxial (Torkel) tourbillon are course the discoveries of Professor Guillaume and his exhibited photographically with schematic drawings of Nobel Prize-winning Invar-Elinvar alloys. Included is its construction. the work of Paul Ditisheim, the giant of precision A bibliography of eight pages is a scholarly chronometry, with this 20th century discovery. Photo­ gathering of pertinent literature. However, what is graphs of his chronometers, their unusual perform­ almost appalling is that here is a book with very valu­ ances with the Guillaume balances, are revealed in able and potentially retrievable information, but where further-pictured models and accompanying text. Oth­ is the index? It has none! ers by Raabe, LeRoy of Paris, Lange of Glashutte, The late Hans Von Bertele authored this book, Nardin, Wempe (without fusee), and of course Hamil­ which in the original version was first published in ton's heroic mass production of marine chronometers, 1981. This is a fine English translation in a most recent are included. edition, and ranks at the top along with others by Gould, Along with the Hamilton chronometer is pic­ Whitney, Mercer, and Ditisheim (Pierre LeRoy et la tured their 35 size model 22 deck watch, together with Chronometrie). It should be a must for anyone inter­ an incorrect caption (possibly by someone who never ested in any aspect of this most noble of portable had one in his hand). It states, "Deck watch signed timepieces. Hamilton, Lancaster, PA USA, 1942 aluminum case, Henry B. Fried two separate crowns for winding and setting." There is 0 but one crown whose mid-section has a turned groove for better purchase when pulling this firm setting (which could only work when the pin-setting at the figure 11 position was depressed to prevent accidental setting). As for the case, anyone who has had the occasion to turn one of the bezels may disagree with the February 1992/Horological Times 39 SCHOLASTICALLY Jewelry & Watch Programs SPEAI{ING at OSU/Okmulgee

tudents participating in the Jewelry Tech­ tive about our industry. Our trade shows are not Snology and Watch and Micro-instrumenta­ open to the public. There's just not much opportu­ tion Program at Oklahoma State University /Okmul­ nity for the public to learn what we do. Most likely, we gee are learning skills developed about 5,000 years have created our own image problem," he said. ago by some of the world's first technicians. But regardless of the image, Walton insists Students are fashioning gold and other pre­ that careers in either jewelry technology or watch cious metals into fine jewelry. They are also learning and micro-instruction repair, other OSU/Okmulgee to set diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and technical programs, hold greater potential than nearly other gemstones. any other type of small business occupation. "Jewelry manufacturing first became a skill "The average income for a beginning jeweler in ancient Egypt in the time of the Pharoahs. Then, or watch repair technician is quite good. Working jewelers were among the most respected of all art­ conditions are safe and comfortable. And I receive ists," one student explained. "Jewelry they designed several calls from employers each week asking to was worn by kings and queens to show power and interview or hire graduates--far more requests than wealth." . we have students graduating." The student continued, "I've always enjoyed Nationwide, the watch and jewelry industry looking at, touching, and wearing jewelry. But it has voiced concern since its own manpower studies never occurred to me to consider jewelry as a career reveal a large percentage of skilled technicians are until a counselor from OSU/Okmulgee visited our nearing retirement age. "This shortage of skilled high school and described the college's jewelry tech­ jewelers and watchmakers continues to drive up nology program ... Jewelry manufacturing is not a salaries," Walton says. And only a handful of schools profession you hear about every day. In my mind, I in the United States teach jewelry or watch and pictured jewelers selling rings and necklaces, sizing micro-instrument technology. rings, and occasionally resetting a stone. I hadn't What type of student enrolls in jewelry or realized that many jewelers make much of the jew­ watch technology? "There is no distinct student elry they sell. Nor was I aware of the technical profile," Walton said. "We've enrolled students di­ processes required--molds that have to be made, the rectly from high schools, and others who have retired precise casting, and the skill involved in stone set­ from one career and are wanting to start another." ting." In a closely aligned profession housed in One student said, "At first, my parents and adjoining labs, Wit Jarochowski teaches the col­ friends tried to talk me out of becoming a jeweler. But lege's watch and micro-instrument program. Mr. after my parents and I visited the college, talked with Jarochowski is a graduate of Warsaw Polytechnic the faculty and department head, and met some of Institute with a degree in precision mechanical the students, there was no more doubt." engineering. "When speaking of the jewelry design, manu­ "Most potential students are concerned facturing, and repair industry, please add the word whether or not they have the necessary- mechanical 'technology'," Dorman Walton, supervisor of the jewehy skills to repair watches," Jarochowski said. "That's technology program at OSU I Okmulgee, urges. "While not the most important criterion for a watchmaker. the public labels jewelers as artists, those of us in the Those skills can be taught." industry refer to ourselves as technologists. The "The ability to think creatively, knowing how public only sees the jewelry when it's completed and to troubleshoot a problem, counts far more than on display in glass cases. What they don't see are our mechanical ability," Jarochowskiexplained. "Watch­ furnaces, specialized tools, molds, the vacuum and making students start with the basics--learning how centrifugal casting equipment, stone polishers, and to use the watchmaker's tools and memorizing each other technical equipment. Nor does the consumer part and function of a conventional mainspring consider the skills jewelers must master in metal­ movement. In subsequent semesters, students prog­ lurgy, ceramics, and physics just to practice the ress into the study of electronic watches and clock craft." repair. Micro-instrument repair, an integral portion Walton says he understands why the public of the program, has many applications for power and doesn't recognize the technical expertise required in process control industries and in avionics." the jewelry profession. For more information: OSU /Okmulgee, 1801 E. "Jewelers by and large have been very secre- 4th St., Olmulgee, OK 74447-3901; (918) 756-6211. 0

40 Horological Times/February 1992 By J.M. HuckabN CLOCKMAKING BITS CMC, FBHI A6otd...

REPAIR OF THE STRAP-STYPE PALLET and THE CHOICE OF A CLOCKMAKER'S LATHE

A watchmaker's lathe is marginal in size, strength, Q. Please comment on how to properly install a and features for serious clockmaking. In addition, the cost new crutch wire on the strap-type pallet escapement. is possibly out of range of its earning ability in the clock­ How do you rivet the crutch in place? shop. Even so, a previously owned lathe fitted with a constant speed motor and suitable tooling can be a good A. Permit me to explain how I do the job. 1'm not sure choice and highly productive. the method could be called proper. However, it is not too Many clockmakers use the Unimat lathe. I have difficult, and has stood many years of use. one of the older ones along with a half dozen other lathes. Most original pieces show some evidence of the The headstock bearings are excellent, but tool holders are crutch wire being riveted in place, as well as marks of a inconvenient, and the bed is not too rigid. With the atten­ holding device below the strap. My method was developed dant disadvantages, it is capable of doing essentially any from these observations. It would be interesting to see if job needed in the repair shop. Before my retirement we had these pieces were assembled in production quantities. a Unimat II lathe at my workplace. It had about every I use a soft brass wire slightly larger than the pallet feature available, and would have been a delight for the strap hole. The wire is tapered slightly for about a quarter clockmaker. inch so that it will slip about an eighth inch into the hole. I use four watchmaker's lathes: a Moseley #2, a Catch the long end of the wire in the jaws of a vise, with the Boley-WW, and two custom-built IME-WW machines. I pallet strap about an eighth inch above the jaws. I use a had one of the IME lathes built with a 15-inch bed. The smooth jaw vise and hold the wire very tight. Use a hollow Moseley is the strongest and most durable, but some jobs flat-faced punch to drive the pallet strap down onto the vise are done on the Unimatfor convenience. And other jobs are jaws. The strap should be quite tight at this time. done on still another 10-inch swing engine lathe. This is to Clipthewiretiptoanoverhangof about 1 mm. Use say that no one tool fits all needs. a flat-faced punch and upset the wire overhang with a Lathe tools and fixtures are another problem. No single stroke of a smal! hammer. matter how well tooled your lathe is, it's not enough. Like The job may require a little schooling on the first try washing the car, it needs it again tomorrow. It has been to get the feel of taper length, punch sizes, and hammer aptly said: The back-geared, screw-cutting lathe is the king stroke. After your first job this will become a quick and of all tools. And that's the reason that the need for tools and simple repair. fixtures never ends. While on this subject, brass wire may be work­ There is a place to begin. When considering a hardened by stretching. It can be softened by passing it repair shop need, and in the clockmaking trade with full through a flame. You may want the wire to be tapered to a consideration of its earning ability, a lathe in the Unimat II smaller size in the crutch-loop region. Stretch the wire until class is a pretty good choice. It will need lots of fixtures, it breaks, then pass the small end through a flame to render most of which you will have to build. This is the same need that area soft before the loop is to be formed. regardless of the lathe choice. One of my "Random Clock Talk" tapes deals with My recommendation is to obtain a basic machine, construction of a strap-type pallet assembly. Some of the and add features as your skills and business needs will work herein is shown in the tape. support. I have some tools that could only be recom­ mended to the very foolish or the very wealthy user. So progress in accordance with your genuine need. And, that Q. What is the best lathe for the clockmaker? advice is equally true for all of the tools for a young clock­ What are the merits of the watchmaker's lathe as maker. compared to other types (for example, the Unimat)? 0 If you have a question, please write: A. A lathe choice is somewhat like a motor vehicle. •Ask Huck,• c/o Horological Times, We purchase a compact car, truck, or bus, depending on P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 what we intend to haul. Let's discuss the situation.

February 1992/Horological Times 41 Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC

Your Proposals are Needed

ell, it's 1992 and we're beginning a new year, the A WI will fund the delegates' travel in the ratio that Wand at the same time we're closing in on the the chapter has of the 60% rule. So, for example, if your second half of our 1991-92 fiscal year at the American group did not have 60% of its members A WI members in Watchmakers Institute. the past, your group received zero; no funding at all. This is a good time for all affiliate chapters to This happened to several affiliate chapters, including begin discussing proposals for the annual board meet­ New Jersey, which usually shows approximately 50% ing coming up in June. It's also time to start considering AWI membership. Under the new proposal change, the who will represent your chapter this year at the annual A WI would calculate the percentage that we had ac­ affiliate chapter meeting. I know in my case the New quired. 50% is approximately 83% of the 60% goal, so we Jersey Watchmakers Association begins each January now are entitled to receive 83% of the $200.00 grant. with new officers and directors. At each regular meeting This rewards our group for its current participation and and board meeting, I mention the subject of proposals helps to allow us to attend the annual A WI meeting, and for our delegate. Unfortunately, without much prod­ yet we will still have the incentive to reach the full grant ding, nothing is mentioned until the week before we commitment in the future. This is an example of a good leave for Cincinnati. All too many times these sugges­ and constructive proposal for all concerned. tions are not well thought out, and this leaves your As I stated in previous articles, I am planning to delegate little time to consider them and possibly dis­ speak to each delegate personally on the phone over the cuss them with anyone else. next few months, so let's start thinking ofsome good pro­ It seems that the usual response from members posals. is that they want more help and information from AWI. D Well, this may be. However, this is a little too general for a delegate to propose at a meething. We all want and need more help and information. However, we need to be specific in our requests. The AWI helps those who help themselves. In talking with other delegates, I often hear things such as, "The AWI should make some new video tapes," or, "The AWI should tell companies that don't Support supply parts that it's wrong and the watchmaker is mad The AWi-ELM TRUST about it." As you can see, these statements are vague, and cannot be addressed as a proposal to theAWI Board SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM of Directors. Let me give you an example ofa well-mentioned By Sending Your and thought out proposal from last year's meeting OLD WATCH BATTERIES (Proposal #3, from Massachusetts): To change the re­ to the quirements for A WI delegates' travel to the affiliate AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS chapter meeting funding. If an affiliate chapter meets INSTITUTE the minimum number of 15 AWI members (which they 3700 Harrison Avenue would have to do in order to be an affiliate chapter) but Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 does not meet the 60% required for the $200.00 funding,

42 Horological Times/February 1992 ASSOCIATION NEWS I I

COLORADO The Colorado Clock & Watchmakers Guild held their November meeting at the Emily Griffith Opportunity UPCOMING CONVENTIONS School. Bill Reid gave a program on brazing and solder­ ing, with helpful tips and information on the quality of Apr/13-5, 1992 solders and the importance of flux. Jeff Miller and Karl Virginia Jewelers Association Tanke showed the sharpening of gravers, etc. using and The Horological Association of Virginia diamond wheels. Jack Michel demonstrated the sharp­ ' Annual Convention ening technique discussed and illustrated by J.M. Embassy Suites Hotel - Richmond, VA Huckabee in the July 1991 issue of Horological Times. This technique used sheets of commercial abrasive pa­ May B-10, 1992 pers, cut into discs, and applied to a backing on a holder North Carolina Watchmaker's Association so they could be used on a lathe. Annual Convention Hampton Inn -- Morehead City, NC NORTH CAROLINA The North Carolina Watchmaker'sAssociation will hold May 16-17, 1992 their annual convention on May 8, 9 & 10, 1992 at the Arizona Clockrnakers & Watchmakers Guild Hampton Inn in Morehead City, NC. Annual Convention las Campanas Quality Inn -- Cottonwood, AZ For more information contact Alice Carpenter, P.O. Box 147, Tarboro, NC 27886. May 21-23, 1992 Texas Watchmakers Association PENNSYLVANIA Annual Convention October 3 and 4, 1992 are the dates set for the annual Wyndham Hotel at Southpark - Austin, TX convention of the Watchmakers Association of Pennsyl­ vania. The location for this year's convention is Penn October 3-4, 1992 State University Campus in State College, PA. Watchmakers Association of Pennsylvania For more information contact George H. Jones, Annual Convention Convention Chairman, 547 Hillcrest Ave., State Col­ Penn State University Campus -- State College, PA lege, PA 16803; daytime phone (814) 238-27 41, evenings (814) 238-1668.

AWi Material Search Network

EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to BB4 GF OF case for Hamilton 912. work in conjunction with the AWI Movement Bank. If you can supply any of the items BB5 Junghans 42A pocket watch detent listed here, please send details to the Mate­ (LSP). rial Search Network. Do not send the items. Members requesting these items will be ad­ CC6 vised of their availability and will contact you Mainspringmeasuring .90x .18x 18" direct. or 0 x 5 x 18 tongue end.

If you can supply any of these items, please BB3 New England 16 size, 7 or 11 jewel, contact: AWi Material Search Network, Dan Patch stop watch, driving wheel, AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, BF #8060. OH 45211; Fax (513) 661-3131. O

February 1992/Horological Times 43 Classified Ads

REGULATIONS AND RATES

Ads are payable in advance $.60 per word, $.70 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $25.00 per column inch, 2-1/4" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of serv­ ices will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. June issue closes for copy on May 1st).

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131

CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, ' 'FRE.E ACCUTRON REPAIR rebushing. REPAIRING: timers, aircraft clocks, pocket watches. ROY H. NIEGEL, Send 2 MENS Accutrons (no basket cases) CMC, CMW, 101 E. Saint Joe Drive, Spirit Will repair one free and keep the other Lake, Idaho 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623- George Hite, 250 Hammond Pond Pky 4330. MEL HEFNER TRADE SHOP Chestnut Hill, MA 02167 (617)332-7363 Professional watchmaker repairs mechanical, · SPACE VIEW CONVERsIONS $45 Accutron tuning fork, and analog quartz POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR·· Bezels, watches. Request price list. Expert retrofit­ hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, ting. P.O. Box 419, Dadville, AL 36853; (205) 37 Years experience in restoring and making Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., 825-4559. parts for French and English Carriage Clocks Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. and Platform Escapements, Balance Staffs, Cylinders, Repivoting, Hairsprings, Pinions, DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, etc. JOHN BARRS, 8442 N.E. 140th St., FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Bothell, WA 98011; (206) 820-8288. CLOCK WHEEL AND Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit PINION CUTTING the quartz movement. Send your works to: Fast service -- Write for free Brochure KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., WATCH RESTORATION and repair work. Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. Custom staffs, pivoting, and regilding. Ron and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes St., DeCorte, Box 6126, Toledo, OH 43614; (419) Irving, TX 75060. (214) 986-7698. 381-1081. CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, RETOOTHING, AND OTHER CUSTOM WORK. Movements overhauled with 2- TIMING MACHINES .. NEW AND REFUR­ .------, year guarantee. All work done by a CMC BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON : DIAL : or a CC. Send SASE for price list. HUGH'S HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. CLOCK SHOP, 126 Ganttown Rd., Turn­ Call (814) 692-2285. l REFINISHING ! ersville, NJ 08012; (609) 228-1639. I I : i2 ; : I z· I THE MORTICIAN I I CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, NO COMEBACKS II e - · I material and tools. Custom made to order or & We correct past mistakes bury them. Special­ I '' 4 I repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog izing in wheel work, repivoting & making of I · I $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, Atwa­ parts. Repeaters, Audemars Piguet, Piaget, I I ter, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. I I Rolex & Quartz Conversions. All work guaran­ : BEFORE AFTER : teed 2 years and done by Jal Small, CMW & As­ I I sociates; (713) 561-5147. 1 Quartz Conversions 1 WE'VE MOVED!! : Diamond Dial Conversions : Larger Shop, More Technicians to Serve You Better Emblem & Name Personalization ' ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT SERVICE l'lffCISION Tl.\IL-.- TLCH I We are Factory Authorized Service for: SL·nict: ;111ll rL·s1or:1tio11 111 Roh.·\. l' ia~L' t. l'all'k l'hilip[h.:. I * VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP \"acllL·ro11-(\111:-.tar11 i11 . \1niqll L' potkl' I \\alchcs a :-.pL·dall\. Write for Brochures l * TICK-0-PRINT & L&R s" is"·tr;iim·J lllJ:.lcr \\ald1111;1kcr. Rok''\. u.:rt it'il· J . ( li\[Om We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate pan manu l":1u un·. I· 'Pt.:di1.•11t ...:cn it:r.: a11d prol't\\\io11al INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. l recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. qu;.ilit) •. \II \\or!.. fully gu;ira11tL'1,.'d . 58 W. SUGARTREE l JACK PHILLIPS· ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE PRECISION TIME-TECH 757 Lincoln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901 1115 L1urcl Slrl'OI. Sa11 C;irlo,, C\ 940~0 P.O. BOX 970 1 For Information, Call (415) 453-9288 i 415) 595·9.B-l WILMINGTON, OH 45177 : ------~ 44 Horological Times/February 1992 MURPHY1S CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL CRYSTAL SERVICE Save time, money, and work re-covering bel­ FAST-- QUALl1YWORK lows. Easler than replaclng. For information, * 24-hour turnaround on most jobs @ $1.00 EACH LEATHER WATCH STRAPS: send business-size SASE to: * Complete crystal fitting service CALF GRAIN - LIZARD GRAIN - ALLIGA­ JANDi GOGGIN * Specializing in custom cut flat TOR GRAIN. ALSO SPECIAL GENUINE Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 mineral glass crystals LIZARD @ $2.75 EACH. PLUS RING CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE UST GUARDS, SPRING BARS, ETC. PHONE OR PHONE (209) 576-8865 WRITE FOR COMPLETE ORDER FORM. 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. FLORO DISTRIBUTOR, 2139 UNIVERSITY MODESTO, CA 95355 DR., SUITE 112, CORAL SPRINGS, FL 33071; MG (MINERAL GLASS) CRYSTALS. 75 sizes, (305) 345-5326. 14mm to 32.5mm, $4.75perdozen. Send SASE for size list. R&D SUPPLY, 1310 Apple Ave., Silver Spring, MD 20910; (301) 588-7296, Fax DONT GIVE UP HOPE, GIVE US A TRY? SCHOOL HOUSE - CLOCK CASES - (301) 495-7312. Dependable repair of all types of high-grade HANDCRAFI'ED. Sizes up to 24", finest watches--Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, etc. woods, fast service, made USA. Your move­ We repair all types of Accutrons by Bulova, ment or mine. REASONABLE. Write for price Omega, Movado, Longines, etc. and Hamilton list, include business-size SASE. BillNailos, 54 HIGHEST QUALI'IY electric calibres 500-505. Rolex double springs Fruehauf Street, Snyder, NY 14226. CLOCKMAKING TOOLS and most other watch parts made. Watch crys­ from tals custom made. Ifyou need a watch repaired­ J. Malcolm Wild, England -high-grade, antique, complicated, etc.--and BOUGHTWATCH& CLOCK SHOP. Selling Depthing Tools (large & small) want fast, dependable service with high quality excess tools, parts, material. Lathes, collets, Lathe File Rest - Milling Spindle GUARANTEED, give us a try; so don't worry, WW tap/die. Send "wants," $1 .00, and LSASE Finger Plate Clamp be happy! Over 30 years experience in all for list/quote. David Eiman, 6579 N. Harrison, Pinion Head Depthing Tool phases of watch repair and watch parts manu­ Fresno, CA 93711. **NEW** facturing. J . Park, CMW. Time Zone, 3578-F Hairspringing Tool - Fusee Grooving Tool Memorial Drive, Decatur, GA30032; (404) 289- Repivoting Tool/Jacot Drum 4464; Mon.-Sat. 10 am - 9 pm. MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed Myford Dividing Head Mounting Kit lowest prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guar­ Skeleton Clock Kit antee. Large selection of hands and numerals. New catalogue available for $8.00 from: CUTI'ERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin­ Free delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. Michael M. Ambrosino ions. Module 0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile pro­ HALL CLOCK SHOP, 1512 Central Ave., 33-67 165th Street, Flushing, NY 11358 ducing traditional square bottomed teeth, 104 Charlotte, NC 28205. sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes). dead beat (set of four sizes). Ratchets 60° and 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High WATCHES, ETC. Call or write us for that Speed Steel and heat treated under vacuum. hard-to-find mechanical wristwatch or pocket NEW Electronic Timing Machines Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. watch part! Please include a detailed descrip­ Send for Information Sheet, prices, and order tion of part needed and SASE for response and forms to: P .P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Hor­ price quote. Send SASE for our pocket watch ological Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, list and/or used tool, lathe, and equipmentlists. Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, Eng­ Please specify. WATCH EQUIPMENT: Vibro­ land. grafB-200A timer $995.00, L&R Master Watch Cleaner $99.95, (plus $15.00 shipping). WATCHES, ETC., 5934 N.W. 39th, Oklahoma SHIP'S CHRONOMETERS OVER­ City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. HAULED. Also HAMILTON 21 PARTS for * TIMETRAX 600 Wrist & Pocket Watch sale: Staffs or escape pinions $60; escape Timer: Measures & displays watch trains in vi­ wheels $110; detent springs $175; lockingjew­ COMPLETE SET OF WATCHMAKERS brations per hour, Calculates gain or loss in els $40; keys, box hardware, etc. I buy chro­ Sec/day. Over 40 preprogrammed trains: 7200- TOOLS & MATERIALS. RETIRING. 36000 /hr. Highly stable TCXO timebase. year nometers and partial movements. 1 $12,000. MARIETTA, OHIO. (614) 373- Complete w/Watch holder & pickups ...... $595 guarantee on repairs. DEWEY CLARK, 6910. (301) 592-3617. * TIMETRAX 400 Clock Timer: Measures & displays clock trains in vibrations per hour, Extended timing range for 400 day & Atmos QUARTZ CONVERSIONS H.ABE clocks, Balance mode aids in setting movement in beat. Complete w/pickup ...... $395 WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED? USED WATCH MOVEMENTS NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? 2 Florida Way Lonaconing, MD 21539 •TICK TECH 195 Clock Timer: Measures SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA Timing interval between ticks in milliseconds FOR A NEW SWISS QUALllY MOVEMENT Mr. Watchmaker -- If you have a problem finding and Beats/Minute. Portable, battery powered, AND FIRST QUALllY JOB CONVERSION. parts for older watches, badly rusted or damaged complete w/pickup ...... $225 95% SIZES POSSIBLE, POCKETS ALSO. beyond repair, we may be able to help you. We All units made in USA, 1 yr. warranty, complete SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. have lots of movements for parts at reasonable with instructions & reference tables. Send 3 ALFONSO ZAMORA prices. Some suitable for replacement. If not sat­ stamps for info & our new 1990 Catalog of 280 PRESIDIO PLACE isfactory you may return. Horological Literature. BUFFALO, NY 14221 ~ Adams Brown Co., Box 357, (716) 633-61 38 Phone (301) 463-6595 .~ Cranbury, NJ 08512 (609) 655-8269

February 1992/Horological Times 45 Classified Ads

TIMEPIECE MAGAZINE'S 1991/1992 CLOCK REPAIR SURVEY NOW AVAILABLE HERMLE MOVEMENTS: Lowest prices in U.S. Factory fresh, 2-year warranty. Butter­ Timepiece magazine's Clock Repair Sur­ WATCHMAKERS NEEDED worth Clock Repair, 1715 Pearlview, Mus­ vey gives the clockmaker the latest infor­ UP 'IO $1,000 WEEKLY catine, IA 52761; 1-800-258-5418. mation on policies, procedures, and pricing of clock repairing. National survey results PLUS BENEFITS BE ALL TIIE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! available for $15. Make check payable to: Qualified in Bulova Accutrons, Mechanical, Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC, Quartz, and Short Jobs. All Skill Levels. H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. Omnibus, 3913 Sauk Trail, Richton Park, (313) 559-5329 IL 60471. USED WATCHMAKERS TOOLS, EQUIP­ MENT, MATERIAL, SUPPLIES, WATCHES, MOVEMENTS, AND RELATED ITEMS. Write or call for our latest list. Tom Mister, Dashto J ewe le rs, 983 Providence Square Shop­ ping Center, Virginia Beach, VA 23464; (804) 495-2471. Carlyle & Co. Service Cut & Polished ATTENTION STUDENTS: New course cata­ To Perfection log available free for Laurie Penman's corre­ spondence course in clock repair. Send your WATCHMAKERS - Carlyle & Co. request to USA course agent Steven G. Conover, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA Jewelers is looking for topnotch watch­ 19607. makers to join our Rolex repair center FULL SERVICE CLOCK SHOP. Estab­ in Greensboro, NC. We are a large lished 1984. $250,000 annual sales. Lo­ cated in Des Moines, Iowa. Population AVOID COMEBACKS multi-state retailer with excellent pay 230,000+. $60,000 plus inventory. Duane LEARN WATCH REPAIR and benefits which include medical Howe (515) 277-0721. Special techniques in all levels. Instruction and dental plan, paid vacation, paid given by CMW. (713) 561-5147. personal leave, seven paid holidays WATCH & CLOCK REPAIR/SALES/JEW­ per year, and Christmas bonus. Must ELRY. Established 21 years. Nets 92k. Selling be completely proficient in all phases price l 75k. Terms/Training. WEST COAST OF FLORIDA. (813) 791-4419. FLORIDA BUSI­ of Rolex watch repair, including care NESS GROUP, INC. and use of authorized Rolex equip­ Comprehensive Training ment. Some travel required to partici­ * Jewelry Repair *Watch Repair pate in instore service programs. We LEADING RETAIL CLOCK SALES AND *Casting *Watch Making will assist you in relocation. Please SERVICE BUSINESS established 1978. * Stone Setting *Gemology Owners retiring. Solid sales and profits record. send resume in strictest confidence Tremendous growth opportunity in affiuent, ASSOCIATE DEGREE OR CERTIFICATE to: NWCSC Manager, P.O. Box 21768, suburban area of Twin Cities. Asking $45M Greensboro, NC 27420. plus inventory. Good terms to right party. (612) Paris Junior College 475-1489. 2400 Clarksville St. • Paris. TX 75460-6298 TEXAS-l ·800·441-1398 OUTSIDE-1-800-232·5804

JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL Clockmakers Ner.vsktter is edited by Steven 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377 G. Conover and is in its fifth year. CN's Phone {718) 424-2929 monthly issues give you clock repair informa­ ATTENTION WATCHMAKERS! Small ad, tion, articles, repair tips, and Q & A. With your Quality Instruction Since 1945 6. higher prices! We need your vintage payment of$34 for a new one year subscription, watches for our European customers. Top mention this ad and choose one of these bonus WATCHMAKING prices paid for Patek, Vacheron, Rolex, issues free: Making Cutters for the Bushing (17 months) Cartier, Movado, chronographs, and oth­ Tool, 400-Day Clock Repair, or Making Large WATCH REPAIR ers. Buying all brands, new old stock. Bushings on the Unimat Lathe. Don't forget to (9 and 13 months) Buying mint boxed comic characters. order your copy of the 210-page hardcover JEWELRY REPAIR Buying preowned modern Rolex and Car­ book, Chime Clock R,epair, by Steven G. BASIC ELECTRONICS tier. Buying ladies enamels. National Conover, $28.50 postpaid.PA residents add 6% Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation Watch Exchange, 107 S. 8th St., Philadel­ sales tax on book only. Clockmakers Newslet­ NATTS approved, BEOG available phia, PA 19106. 1-800-43-ROLEX. 1-800- ter, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA 19607. 562-6788.

46 Horological Times/February 1992 BUYING ACCUMULATIONS AND COLLEC­ We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any TIONS OF POCKET WATCHES, POCKET amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, WATCH MOVEMENTS, CASES, DIALS, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment Watches Wanted ETC. IN ANY CONDITION. CALL, WRITE return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: OR SIDP FOR OFFER: BILL SEIDEMAN, c/o AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King BILL'SANTIQUEWATCHES,P.O.BOX2012, St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ VERNON, CT 06066; (203) 875-9779. lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073.

HAMILTON ELECTRIC REPAIRMAN seeks parts! Movements, balances, etc. desper­ We buy watchmakers tools, equipment, mate­ ately needed. Want anything related to Hamil­ rial, and related items as well as jewelers and ton Electrics. Rene Rondeau, 120 Harbor clockmakers tools and watch collections, etc. Drive, Corte Madera, CA 94925; (415) 924- Specialize in estate purchases. Call or write We desperately need for our retail 6534. Tom Mister, Dashto Jewelers, 983 Providence customers fine watches by: Square Shopping Center, Virginia Beach, VA 23464; (804) 495-2471. Rolex , Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc. WANTED • Diamonds ·all sizes, qualities; We are paying top prices for any high even chipped, old mine, single cut WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ quality, unusual or complicated • Scrap watch bands ·paying $12·$27 lb. movements. I buy entire collections, estates, Wrist or Pocket Watches • Dead watch batteries (unsorted accepted) watchmakers' inventories. Over 30 years expe­ • Gold filled & gold scrap ·filings, rience of honest and reliable confidential When You 're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch 10, 14, 18K, buffing waste, etc. transactions. JON HANSON, Box 5499, Bev­ • Sterling & plated flatware erly Hills, CA 90210; (213) 826-7778. C.all us Toll Free 1-800-842-862 5 • China, old watches - Rolex, etc. In Texas 1-214-902-0664 CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-426-2344 Always prompt immediate payment! Wingate's Quality Watches SPECIAL TV METALS Unusual Pocket Watches & Wristwatches Wanted. P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 REFINING COMPANY Especially Patek Philippe, Howard, Illinois, Waltham, 10 Bay Street Chronometers, Strikers, Moonphase, Tourbillons, Vir­ Westport, CT 06880 gules, Karrusel, Musicals, Hlstorlcal, and Solid Golda. Early American watches a specialty. Need not run. Call Members TOLL FREE 1-800-23J-BUNN or 913-383-2880. Maundy CALL (513) 661-3838 Jewelers Board of Trade International, P.O. Box 13028H, Overland Park, Kansas TO PLACE A Ron Fried Our 70th Consecutive Ad President 66212. CLASSIFIED AD

WE1RE INTERESTED IN YOUR COLOR SLIDES

The American Watchmakers Institute knows that there is a wealth of talent in its membership and that this talent is not only in the field of horology. There is seldom a gathering of a group of watchmakers and clockmakers where a camera is not also there.

Those of you who pride yourself in the beauty of your camera work can possibly participate in having your own picture reproduced on the cover of Horological Times. The covers of Horological Times are reproduced from color transparencies or slides. Remember, the format is scenery or nature and what you submit must be a color slide. Color photos are not acceptable.

If your color slide is used, you will receive an 8-1/2 x 11 inch color photo. It will be framed and sent to you for your enjoyment. Mail your color slide with description to: Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Dept. 31, Cincinnati, OH 45211. All slides become the property of the American Watchmakers Institute.

February 1992/Horological Times 47 Dates to Remember Ad Index

FEBRUARY 1992 APRIL 1992 Blue Ridge Machinery & Tools ...... 8 Borel Co ...... 7 8-9--Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); 3-5--Virginia Jewelers Association and the Horol­ James Lubic, instructor; San Diego, CA.* ogical Association of Virginia Annual Convention, Embassy Suites Hotel, Richmond, VA. Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover 14-15-400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor, Pittsburgh, PA*. 11--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Charlie Precision Co...... 29 Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Charles Cleves ...... 23 14-16-Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Austin, TX.* Roy Hovey, instructor; San Diego, CA.* 11-12--Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Davis Supply ...... 13 16--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench James Lubic, instructor; Orlando, FL.* DRS, Inc ...... 11 Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Al­ buquerque, NM.* 12-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; San Esslinger & Co...... inside front cover 16-17-Striking Clocks Bench Course (AWi); Antonio, TX.* John A. Nagle, instructor; Pittsburgh, PA.* Eveready Watch Batteries ...... 3 20-Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench 21-23--Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; (AWi); Roland Iverson, Instructor; San Francisco, Sioux Falls, SD.* Finn Time Products ...... 27 CA.* 24-26-Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); 22-23--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course Roy Hovey, instructor; Orlando, FL.* Gem City College...... 29 (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Albuquerque, Guenther & Sons ...... 8 NM.* 26--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; 22-23--Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course Jamestown, ND.* S. LaRose, Inc ...... 15 (AWi); James Williams, instructor; Orlando, FL.* Livesay's, Inc...... 19 26--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ 22-23--Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course pair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instruc­ (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; New York, NY.* tor; Charleston, SC.* New York Jewelers Supply Co ...... 31

23--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ pair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instruc­ Precision Crystal Cutting Co...... 21 tor; Ellisville, MS.* MAV1992

23--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench 4--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench S & G Industries ...... 17 Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Swigart Co...... 9 Phoenix, AZ..* Kansas City, MO.*

5--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Twin City Supply Co...... 25 Course (AWi); Remy Waelchli, instructor; MARCH 1992 Denver, CO.* Vibrograf USA Corp...... 21 14--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench 6--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; San Course (AWi); Remy Waelchli, instructor; Diego, CA.* Oklahoma City, OK.* Watch Band Co...... 29

14-15--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course 8-10--North Carolina Watchmaker's Association Witschi Electronics ...... 13 (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Trenton, NJ.* Annual Convention, Hampton Inn, Morehead City, NC. 20-21-400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course Young-Neal Co., Inc. ,,...... 17 (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Orlando, FL.* 9-10--Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; Alexandria, VA.* Zantech ...... 5 21-22--Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Denver, CO.* 15-17--Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Roy Hovey, instructor; Alexandria, VA.* 21-22--Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; Albuquerque, NM.* 16--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench 17--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; pair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instruc­ 22--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ Ellisville, MS.* tor; Norfolk, VA.* pair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instruc­ tor; Houston, TX.* 16-17--Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course 21-23--Texas Watchmakers Association Annual (AWi); James Williams, instructor; Portland, OR.* Convention, Wyndham Hotel at Southpark, 22-23--Striking Clocks Bench Course (AWi); Austin, TX. John A. Nagle, instructor; Orlando, FL.* 16-17--Arizona Clockmakers & Watchmakers Guild Annual Convention; Las Campanas Quality 29-31--Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course 27-29--Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Inn; Cottonwood, AZ.. For more information con­ (AWi); Roland Iverson, instructor; Seattle, WA.* Roy Hovey, instructor; Albuquerque, NM.* tact Bob Macomber (602) 778-5720. *For more Information on AWi Bench Courses and 29--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench 17-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Regional Seminars, contact AWi Central, P.O. Box Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Bay Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; 11011, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211; Area, CA.* Mobile, AL.* (513) 661-3838; Fax (513) 661-3131.

48 Horological Times/February 1992 Inside Ring Engraving Machine • Especially designed for jewelers. • Simple to operate. • Diamond cutter. • Manual operation. • Semi-manual adjusting. • Template engraved on both faces. • Maximum jaw opening 30mm diam. No.260.199 List Price $895.00 $

Stereo Jewelscope :!& • Specifically designed for gemstone use. • Quality wide-field lenses provide high resolution and clear optics. • 1OX & 30X stereo magnification with turret style quick change and precision rack and pinion focusing. • Upper and lower illumination can be used independently or together. $ •Extra long focusing range. • 360° swivel allows clerk or customer counter use. No.290.999 Jewelscope (includes Gem Clamp) Special Terms Available No.290.999DF Optional Darkfield Attachment $110.00 Cas·~[l(o. (displays minor flaws in diamonds) 2121 SPRING GROVE AVENUE CALL FREE 1-800-487-0408 FAX 1-800-487-5848 LOCAL 513/241-7073 FAX 513/241-5848 PO BOX 14069 CINCINNATI OH 45250-0069 AWi BENCH COURSES Fiscal 1992 To register for these courses, please send along with your request a registration fee of $25 per instruction day (for AWi members) to: AWi Central P.O. Box 11011 Cincinnati, OH 45211 PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the earliest postmarks. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, and signature. FAX: (513) 661-3131. For more information, call (513) 661-3838.

MARCH 1992 14--1 ntro to Quartz Watch Repair--San Diego, CA COURSES & INSTRUCTORS 14-15--400-Day Clock Repair--Trenton, NJ Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair 15--1 ntro to Quartz Watch Repair--Los Angeles, CA Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW 20-21--400-Day Clock Repair--Orlando, FL Advanced Quartz Watch Repair 21-22--Repair of the Atmos Clock--Denver, CO Robert Bishop, CMEW 21-22--Beginning Lathe--Albuquerque, NM Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair 22--Useful Techniques: Mech'I Watch Repair--Houston, TX James Broughton, CMEW 22-23--Striking Clocks--Orlando, FL Introduction to Clock Repair 27-29--Advanced Lathe--Albuquerque, NM James Lubic 29--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Bay Area, CA Advanced Clock Repair Roland Iverson, CMC APRIL 1992 Repair of the Atmos Clock Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI 11--lntro to Quartz Watch Repair--Austin, TX Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair 11-12--Beginning Lathe--Orlando, FL James Adams, CMW, FBHI 12--lntro to Quartz Watch Repair--San Antonio, TX Beginning Lathe 20--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Sioux Falls, SD James Lubic 23--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Billings, MT Cuckoo Clock Repair 24-26--Advanced Lathe--Orlando, FL James Williams 26--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Jamestown, ND 400-Day Clock Repair 26--Useful Techniques: Mech'I Watch Repair--Charleston, SC John A. Nagle Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs MAY1992 James Broughton, CMEW 4--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Kansas City, MO Remy Waelchli Advanced Lathe 5--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Denver, CO Roy Hovey 6--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Oklahoma City, OK Striking Clocks 9-10--Beginning Lathe--Alexandria, VA John Nagle 15-17--Advanced Lathe--Alexandria, VA 16--1 ntro to Quartz Watch Repair--Ellisville, MS 16-17--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Portland, OR 17--lntro to Quartz Watch Repair--Mobile, AL 17--Useful Techniques: Mech'I Watch Repair--Norfolk, VA FEBRUARY 1992 29-31--Advanced Clock Repair--Seattle, WA 8-9--Beginning Lathe--San Diego, CA 14-15--400-Day Clock Repair--Pittsburgh, PA JUNE 1992 14-16--Advanced Lathe--San Diego, CA 13-14--Beginning Lathe--New York, NY 16--lntro to Quartz Watch Repair--Albuquerque, NM 14--lntro to Quartz Watch Repair--Boston, MA 16-17--Striking Clocks--Pittsburgh, PA 14--Useful Techniques: Mech'I Watch Repair--Nashville, TN 21-23--Advanced Clock Repair--San Francisco, CA 19-21--Advanced Lathe--New York, NY 22-23--400-Day Clock Repair--Albuquerque, NM 19-21--Advanced Clock Repair--Denver, CO 22-23--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Orlando, FL 20-24--Complicated Watches--Cincinnati, OH 22-23--Repair of the Atmos Clock--New York, NY 23--Useful Techniques: Mech'I Watch Repair--Ellisville, MS JULY1992 23--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Phoenix, AZ. 18-19--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Omaha, NE