Aveda Aromaology I: Essence of Aveda

Leader Guide

Introduction:

Aveda Aromaology 1 Essence of Aveda

Welcome the participants to the class. Introduce yourself and your background. Have the participants introduce themselves mentioning name, salon/spa, role (hairdresser, spa therapist, owner, guest services, etc) their background in aromatherapy/ aromaology and any expectations they have for the class today. Cover any logistics with food, restrooms, etc.

Review the Aveda Mission:

OUR MISSION AT AVEDA IS TO CARE FOR THE WORLD WE LIVE IN FROM THE PRODCUTS WE MAKE TO THE WAYS IN WHICH WE GIVE BACK TO SOCIETY. AT AVEDA WE STRIVE TO SET AN EXAMPLE FOR ENVIRONMENTAL LEADERSHIP AND RESPONSIBILITY NOTJUST IN THE WORLD OF BEAUTY BUT AROUND THE WORLD.

Aromaology is the heart of Aveda. It is one of the founding principles of Aveda and is important part of our mission of caring for the world through making products with organic sustainable ingredients

On the power point show a few images of keystones as well as cars. Have the group look at the images and write down their thoughts when they see the images.

Have the group share their ideas: Look for beauty, form, emotions, etc.

In addition lead a discussion with the group about the function of keystones. Without the keystone, the entire structure would fall apart. It is a weight bearing stone that serves the function of stability in design. Often times when we see nice cars, we think of the comfort and features of the car. But the car’s function is to get us from point A to B.

• Keystones and cars are not only visually beautiful but they are functional as well

• In the box, draw an “S” and then enclose it within a circle

Image: On a flip chart, draw a tai chi or yin / yang symbol by drawing and s and when you get to the bottom of the s continue drawing by making a circle immediately around the s. Have the participants draw the symbol in the workbooks as you do this. This symbol represents the duality of life and the natural flow from one aspect to another and back again. The Aveda aromaology class is focused on bringing together the two major qualities of essential oils: aroma and function. • Aromaology I brings together the 2 major aspects of essential oils: aroma and function

Often times, when people think of aroma, they connect to the beauty of the smell. When the aroma is an essential oil, it is also important to focus on the functionality of that oil and what it can do for health and wellness.

The agenda of the course is as follows:

• What is aromaology? • The definition of essential oils: o Where they come from o How we obtain them • How essential oils work: o Electrically (olfaction) o Physically • Aveda Functional aroma blends: o The process of creating Aveda Functional Aroma Blends o Properties of Aveda Blends (anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, elemental nature) o key oils within the blends and their key benefits • Using this information with guests

Introduction:

Using the power point:

• What is aromatherapy?

• What is aromaology?

Ask the question: What is aromaology? What is aromatherapy?

How are they different? How are they similar?

As the group shares theirs insights, lead a discussion about aromaology and aromatherapy looking for the following:

Aromaology means the study of aromas - aroma means aroma and -ology means study of

Aromatherapy means therapy of aroma - aroma means aroma and therapy is therapy

Comment: This is correct from a etymology (word) point of view, but it is limited

Aromatherapy is the use of essential oils to help bring health and vitality. The term “aromatherapy” is somewhat of a misnomer because the aroma to which aromatherapy was meant to refer to the aroma of essential oils but it is often interpreted as any aroma, either natural or synthetic.

• Traditionally, aromatherapy is the use of essential oils for health and vitality

The word “Aromatherapy” was coined by a French chemist by the name of Rene- Maurice Gattefosse in the 1930’s and was meant to describe the therapeutic use of essential oils. During the 1920’s and 30’s the use of synthetic aromas was growing. In fact, the first synthetic perfume was created in 1921. Does anyone know the name of this perfume? It is still on the market today. Answer: Chanel # 5. Gattefosse coined the term after an accident in his lab in 1910. As the story goes, while working in the lab, he burned his hand. Impulsively, he stuck that hand in the nearest vat of liquid; The vat happened to be the essential oil of lavender. Gattefosse noticed over the next few moments and days how the burn’s effects of pain, scarring, and infection were minimized by the lavender oil. He realized there was a lot more benefit to the essential oils and he wrote a book titled Aromatherapie first published in 1937 called Aromathérapie: Les Huiles essentielles hormones végétales which was translated Gattefosse’s aromatherapy. From his experiments modern aromatherapy was born. Jean Valnet, a contemporary of Gattefosse’s, worked with Aveda’s lab in the 1980’s, also developed the therapeutic use of essential oils with much success during World War II. Dr Valnet worked with the Aveda lab in the 1980’s.

• Aromaology is a trademarked word of Aveda to emphasize our use of plant based essential oils.

Aromaology is a trademark of the Aveda Corporation. Aveda originally used the term “aromatherapy” but this word became a marketing tool for many companies in the 1980’s even though they were not using natural essential oils but rather synthetic fragrances, which is not true aromatherapy. In order to distinguish us from the use of synthetic aroma, Aveda created the term Aromaology, which is a trademarked term to stress that we use only naturally derived aromas. • Aromaology is: a

You could say Aromaology is the Art and Science of Pure Flower and Plant Essences.

As essential oils are not the only natural aromas, we use this definition to include all pure flower and plant essences, not just essential oils. So if Aromatherapy and Aromaology focus mostly on the use of Essential Oils, we need to define Essential Oil.

Chapter 1: What is an Essential Oil?

What is an essential oil?

Have the participants look in their workbooks at the words that make up the definition of an essential oil. They should arrange those words into a sentence that defines essential oils. The definition should include 3 parts: the technical aspects of what an essential oil is, from where we get the oils, and how we get the oils.

• An essential oil is a volatile aromatic organic compound derived from any part of a plant through a process of expression or distillation.

Essential oils are volatile aromatic organic compounds obtained from any part of plant through a process of expression or distillation.

Now discuss each part of the definition:

• Volatile - the molecules of the essential oil are floating in space

1. Technical aspects of the essential oil: a. Volatile – means the molecules are not strongly attached but rather float in the air. The reason you can smell an essential oil is because the molecules float away and you inhale those molecules

•Aromatic - essential oils have an aroma

b. Aromatic – means they have a distinct aroma

• Organic means essential oils contain carbon

c. Organic – contains carbon. All the essential oil components are carbon based. The chemical components of essential oils are mostly monterpenes with a backbone of 10 carbon atom or sesquiterpenes with a backbone of 15 carbon atoms. Please note that organic could mean grown without the use of pesticides and herbicides and some essential oils (and 90% of Aveda’s) are organically grown but this is not the interpretation in the definition.

NATURAL ROSEMARY: - (+)-LIMONENE (E)-BETA-OCIMENE (Z)-BETA-OCIMENE 1,8-CINEOLE 1-OCTEN-3-OL 19- ALPHA-HYDROXYURSOLIC-ACID 2-BETA-HYDROXYOLEANOLIC-ACID 3,5,5- TRIMETHYLHEXAN-1-OL 3-BETA-HYDROXYUREA-12,20(30)-DIEN-17-ON-ACID 3-HEXANONE • Compound - 3-METHYL-BUTAN-1-OL 3-O-ACETYLOLEANOLIC-ACID 3-O-ACETYLURSOLIC-ACID 3- OCTANOL 3-OCTANONE 4-HYDROXYBENZOYL-GLUCOSIDE 4-TERPINENYL-ACETATE 5- HYDROXY-4',7-DIMETHOXYFLAVONE 6-METHOXY-GENKWANIN 6-METHOXY-LUTEOLIN-7- GLUCOSIDE 6-METHOXYLUTEOLIN 6-METHOXYLUTEOLIN-7-METHYL-ETHER 7-ETHOXY- ROSMANOL 7-METHOXY-ROSMANOL ACETIC-ACID ALLO-AROMADENDRENE ALPHA- essential oils AMORPHENE Plant ALPHA-AMYRENONE ALPHA-AMYRIN ALPHA- ALPHA-FENCHENE ALPHA-FENCHOL ALPHA-FENCHYL-ACETATE ALPHA-FENCHYL-ALCOHOL ALPHA- HUMULENE ALPHA-HYDROXYHYDROCAFFEIC-ACID ALPHA-MUUROLENE ALPHA- ALPHA- PINENE ALPHA-SELINENE ALPHA-TERPINENE ALPHA-TERPINENYL-ACETATE ALPHA- contain more TERPINEOL ALPHA-THUJENE ALPHA- APIGENIN APIGENIN-7- AR-CURCUMENE ASCORBIC- BENZYL-ALCOHOL BETA-AMYRENONE BETA-AMYRIN BETA-CAROTENE BETA- CARYOPHYLLENE BETA-ELEMENE BETA-FENCHENE Plant: BETA-GURJUNENE BETA- OCIMENE BETA-PHELLANDRENE BETA-PINENE Plant BETA-SITOSTEROL BETA-THUJONE BETULIN BETULINIC-ACID BORNEOL BORNYL-ACETATE BORNYLENE Plant: BORON than one BUTAN-2-OL CADALENE CAFFEIC- CALACORENE CALAMENENE CALCIUM CAMPHENE CAMPHOR CAPROIC-ACID CARBOHYDRATES CARNOSIC- CARVACROL CARVONE CARYOPHYLLENE CARYOPHYLLENE-OXIDE CHLOROGENIC-ACID CINEOLE CIRSILION CIRSIMARITRIN CIS-ALPHA-BISABOLENE CIS-BETA-TERPINEOL CIS-MYRTENOL CIS- chemical PINAN-3-ONE CIS-SABINENE-HYDRATE COPPER CUBENENE DECA-TRANS-2,TRANS-4- DIEN-1-AL DELTA-3-CARENE DELTA-4-CARENE DELTA-CADINENE DELTA-TERPINEOL DIMETHYL-STYRENE DIOSMETIN DIOSMIN DIPENTENE ELEMOL EPI-ALPHA-AMYRIN EPI-ALPHA-BISABOLOL EPIROSMANOL ERIODICTIOL ETHANOL EUGENOL-METHYL- ETHER FAT FENCHONE FIBER GAMMA-CADINENE GAMMA-EUDESMOL GAMMA- MUUROLENE GAMMA-MUUROLOL GAMMA-TERPINENE GENKWANIN GENKWANIN-4'- METHYL-ETHER GERANIOL GLYCOLIC-ACID HEPT-TRANS-2-EN-1-AL HEPTAN-1-AL HEPTAN-2-OL HEPTANOIC-ACID HESPERIDIN HEXAN-1-AL HEXAN-1-OL HISPIDULIN HISPIDULOSIDE HUMULENE-EPOXIDE-I HUMULENE-EPOXIDE-II HYDROXY-BENZOIC-ACID- 4-BETA-D-GLUCOSIDE IRON ISOBORNEOL ISOBORNYL-ACETATE ISOBUTYL-ACETATE ISOPINOCARVEOL ISOPULEGOL ISOROSMANOL ISOROSMARICINE LABIATIC-ACID LAVANDULOL LEDENE LIMONENE LINALOL LINALOL-ACETATE LONGIFOLENE LUTEOLIN LUTEOLIN-3'-O-(3''-O-ACETYL)-BETA-D-GLUCURONIDE LUTEOLIN-3'-O-(4''-O-ACETYL)- BETA-D-GLUCURONIDE LUTEOLIN-3'-O-BETA-D-GLUCURONIDE LUTEOLIN-7-GLUCOSIDE MAGNESIUM MANGANESE MESITY-ALCOHOL METHYL-ETHER METHYL-EUGENOL METHYL-HEPTENONE MONOMETHYL-ALKANE MYRCENE MYRTENOL N-METHYL- ROSMARICINE NEO-CHLOROGENIC-ACID NEO-THUJOL NEPETIN NEPETRIN NIACIN

d. Compound – contains more than chemical. Essential oils are a combination of many chemicals. The chemicals are plant based as opposed to petroleum based, and the complexity of essential oils is what gives them their power. Synthetic copies of essential oils often use 3 or 4 chemicals that dominate the makeup of the essential oil but the actual oil can have up to 300 components. That complexity is why essential oils do what they do.

Show a gas chromatograph of an essential oil. The tall peaks represent components of the essential oils and chemist can identify this chemical and use it in a synthetic version. However, they cannot copy all of the tiny peaks so even though they can recreate a version, it cannot match the superiority of the aroma or therapeutic properties of the actual oil.

2. Obtained from any part of a plant. a. Essential oils can come from any part of a plant – the roots, leaves, flowers, fruit, bark, grass, etc. However, each essential oil comes from a distinct part of the plant. Rose Oil comes from the flowers but not the leaves. Patchouli comes from the leaves of the plant. Vetiver comes from the root of a plant but not the grass, lemongrass comes from the grass but not the roots. Have the participants fill in the plant name next to the image

Essential Oils can be obtained from any part of a plant:

• Flowers – Rose and Ylang Ylang

• Fruit - Orange

• Resin - Frankincense

• Wood – Sandalwood

Show a video of frankincense

Frankincense is a resin

• Leaves – patchouli

• Roots – vetiver

• Grass - Palmarosa

b. Occasionally one plant will yield more than one essential oil. The bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantium) produces 3 distinct essential oils Pass the aroma of each around on a blotter as you discuss each aroma: Have the participants write in the names of the oils beside the plant part. If you express the fruit you get bitter orange oil, distilling the leaves produced petitgrain oil, and distilling the flowers yields Neroli (or orange flower oil one of the rare oils not named after the plant but a person the Italian Princess of Neroli.

• The bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantium) yields 3 essential oils

• Fruit – bitter orange oil • Leaves – petitgrain • Flowers - Neroli

Show a video of neroli

Neroli comes from the bitter orange tree

• Essential Oils are obtained through either expression or distillation

3. From a process of expression or distillation: True essential oils are obtained by only 2 methods: a. Expression is the pressing of the plant material to extract the essential oil. This technique only works with citrus oils as the essential oils is contained in easily ruptured sacs within the rind of the fruit.

Show the animated slide

i. Pass around a few oranges. Have the group take a piece of rind. Hold it up in the air and squeeze and see if they can see the oil spray out. ii. Sometimes, the oil can be a byproduct of the juice industry as is the case with oranges. When extracting juice, juicers do not cut the oranges in half but rather the oranges go on a conveyer belt that sends the oranges through two giant rollers with tiny teeth all around. The oranges including the rind get crushed and all the liquid goes into a container. The juice as well as the essential oil are extracted and since oil and water do not mix, the oil floats to the top and the juice sinks to the bottom and the two can be separated. Show the animated slide of this process. iii. In a drought year in Florida, is it a good essential oil year or bad? It is good, as the oil is located in the rind. The purpose of the rind is to protect the water inside so during a drought, the rind gets thicker. It is a good oil year but a bad juice year. The opposite can occur during a rainy season when the rind is thin but the fruit is full of juice. Notice the size of the rind next time you buy oranges. Sometimes the rind is thick and easily to peer (less rain) and sometimes it is thin and hard to peel (more rain) b. Distillation: What is distilled water? Water (liquid) than has been boiled and turned into steam (vapor), then that steam (vapor) is re-cooled and turned into water (liquid). It is a very simple process. The Persian chemist and philosopher Avicenna first wrote about the steam distillation process for alcohol and essential oils. Since essential oils have a low boiling point, passing steam through the plant material allows for the oil to be vaporized and lifted out of the plant material with the steam. This vapor which contains the water and the essential oil can be cooled again. As the vapor changes to a liquid state, the essential oil will float to the top of the water and can be drained off the top.

Show the animated slide of this process.

c. For any hydrophilic (water loving) oils, such as rose, some oil will remain in the water and the water from the distillation can also be used as a hydrosol.

How many of the 12 Aveda Singular Notes are by definition essential oils?

d. Aveda has 12 singular notes: How many of these products are by definition essential oils? Look for all of them: incorrect. None of them: incorrect. Even though the singular notes are diluted, most of them are still essential oils. The answer is 10. The 2 that are not essential oils are Rose absolute and vanilla absolute. Absolutes are volatile aromatic compounds derived from a part of a plant but they are obtained through solvent extraction. Of the 12 singular notes, 2 are expressed (bergamot and tangerine) 8 are distilled, and 2 are solvent extracted.

• The absolutes of Vanilla and Rose are volatile aromatic organic compounds obtained from any part of plant but they are obtained through solvent extraction

4. Solvent Extraction: some flowers and other plants cannot withstand the distillation process but will yield a plant or flower essence through other methods.

2 Solvent extraction - vanilla

Evaporate solvent

Contains Solvent Solvent aroma, plant Vanilla Vanilla pigment, waxes (do Solvent soluble soluble not want) insoluble Vanilla concrete Add alcohol Evaporate Contains aroma and alcohol plant pigment Vanilla aroma & Vanilla pigment aroma & Vanilla absoluteTo play video Insoluble wax pigment click image -filter off

a. One method is solvent extraction. This involves soaking the plant material in a solvent (usually hexane, a petrochemical) which separates the aromatic compounds, color and waxes from the plant. The solvent evaporates off and leaves what is called a concrete, which is a colored wax with aroma. As it is common to use the plant essence is liquid form, the concrete can be washed with alcohol which dissolves the wax and leaves an aromatic liquid which usually have some color as well. A solvent extracted product is called an absolute b. Some flowers like jasmine cannot be distilled while others like rose can be distilled or solvent extracted. Pass around blotters with Rose Oil and Rose absolute. Which one smells more like roses? The absolute.

Which of the extraction processes yields an essential that smells most like its respective plants?

Solvent extraction

c. Of the 3 extraction methods discussed thus far, which do you think yields an oil that smells most like the plant? Expression as this is simply pressing the oil from the rind. Pass around lime oil distilled. Have the participants notice how it smells just like limes. Solvent extraction is next. Many of the absolutes are used in the perfume industry as they smell more like the plant. Distillation is the process that creates a slight change in the aroma from the plant material. Pass around distilled lime oil. What in distillation would change the aroma? The answer is the heat. Oils are volatile, so it is natural to have a shift in the aroma. Notice how the lime oil changes when it is distilled vs. expressed d. At Aveda we minimize the use of absolutes. We are working on using a petrochemical free way of extracting some of these essences. We are making progress but creating a new extraction process that is also economical takes time

• Essential oils vary in cost based on yield

• How many roses does it take to obtain 1 drop of rose oil?

5. Each essential oil has different costs. Some oils are quite expensive and some are relatively cheap. The major factor in price is the yield of the essential oil.

Ask the question: “How many roses do it take to obtain one drop of rose oil?”

Expensive oils like Rose require 30 roses to create just one drop and are thus quite expensive. 5 ml of Rose Pure Essence costs $140. Other essential oils have a lot of oil within the plant material and cost less. 5ml of Grapefruit Pure Essence costs $12. • Based on the information you have learned thus far, create a script so that you may introduce Aveda aromaology to your guests.

Have the participants write a script on how the would introduce aromaology to their guests.

Chapter 2: How Essential Oils Work

• How do essential oils work?

How do essential oils work?

Look for: through the sense of smell, applying to the skin, chemically.

• Essential Oils work in 2 ways:

– Electrically through smell

– Physically through application

Essential oils work in 2 major ways: electrically and physically

We will begin our discussion with the electrical effect or the olfactory benefits:

Olfaction:

• Think of your favorite aroma and describe it

Close your eyes and think of your favorite aroma in the world. As you are “smelling” the aroma, describe the aroma. Write down whatever words come to you.

Have the participants share their descriptive words:

Look for 2 types of words which is what most people will use: Words that describe how the aroma makes them feel (calm, relaxed, joyful, soothing) or words that describe what the aroma reminds them of (Christmas, Grandma, dinner, a walk in the woods)

We describe aromas by:

• How they make us feel

• Of what they remind us

Have the participants write in their book: how they make us feel and of what they remind us

In A Natural History of the Senses, author Diane Ackerman notes that it is almost impossible to explain how something smells to someone who hasn't smelled it. There are names for all the pastels in a hue, she writes—but none for the tones and tints of a smell. Thus we rely on these other types of words to describe the aroma: how they make us feel or what they remind us of.

How the sense of smell works:

How does the olfactory sense work?

Ask for 9 volunteers: each person will represent a different part of the olfactory system and an aroma molecule 1. Aroma molecule 2. Nose 3. Olfactory epithelium 4. Olfactory bulb 5. Thalamus 6. Olfactory cortex 7. Limbic system 8. Hypothalamus 9. Rhinencephalon

Place the participants in order after they draw the identification cards. They should hold up the cards throughout the exercise and read the appropriate information from the book when the aroma molecule gets to them. 1. An aroma molecule is floating in the air 2. The nose directs the molecules to the olfactory epithelium 3. While most of us think we smell we our nose, we actually smell with our olfactory epithelium, which has 10-40 million olfactory receptors. These receptors are neurons with dozens of ciliate tips, which are stimulated when the aroma molecules pass through the nasal passage. It is thought that the neurons convert the chemical signals into electrical signals 4. This electrical signal is sent to the olfactory bulb, which is a part of the brain. The olfactory bulb sends the signal directly to the olfactory cortex. 5. This signal bypasses the thalamus which makes smell unique among 5 senses as the other 4 pass through the thalamus which controls motor functions 6. The olfactory cortex can send the signal into 2 directions: the limbic system or the hypothalamus 7. The limbic system is the emotional and memory center of the brain. This explains why we describe aromas by how they make us feel or of what they remind us. The limbic system response is often psychological. 8. The hypothalamus controls homeostasis and affects autonomic functions such as blood pressure, digestion, and stress response. The hypothalamus response is thus physiological. 9. The collective areas that govern olfaction are termed the rhinencephalon.

Additional information that you can share: While it is said that we smell with our noses we actually smell with the olfactory epithelium, a patch of greenish yellow tissue several square centimeters which has about 10 to 40 million olfactory receptors situated deep in the nasal cavity. When you inhale an aroma, which is simply a molecule floating in the air, the nose directs the molecules to the olfactory epithelium. The aroma molecules dissolve in the epithelium stimulating the olfactory receptors which are neurons with a dozens of ciliate tips that extend into a patch of mucus lining the nasal cavity. These neurons do not live long: after one to two months, they die and are replaced by a new receptor grown from a stem cell. The way that the ciliate tips respond to odorants is not totally clear, although the most pursued hypothesis is that chemical receptors respond directly to particular odorant molecules converting chemical signals into electrical signals. The olfactory neurons pass through the skull and congregate in the olfactory bulb, part of the brain. They then pass directly to the olfactory cortex, without passing through the thalamus, as the other senses do. This makes smell anatomically unique among the senses, in its connection to the cortex. The collective name of the olfactory areas is the rhinencephalon. The rhinencephalon has connections to the limbic system which is the emotional and memory center of the brain. The rhinencephalon is also connected to the various autonomic centers including the hypothalamus and habenular nucleus.

What does this mean to you?

The sense of smell works:

• Psychologically (limbic system)

• Physiologically (hypothalamus)

The sense of smell works 2 ways: psychologically and physiologically.

• The limbic system is the emotional and memory center of the brain

The psychological connection occurs through the limbic system which is the emotional and memory center of the brain. We describe aromas they way we do because of this connection to the limbic system. This aroma connection to memory and emotion can be very powerful and happens in an instant. When you smell a familiar aroma, you can instantly be mentally transported back to that moment in time when you encountered the aroma.

• A positive connection to an aroma can influence the effects

• Aromas can create new memories

Tell a story when this happened to you.

How you feel about that experience influences how you respond to that aroma. If you have a pleasant or positive association with that memory, it can bring up positive emotions when you smell the aroma again. If you had a negative response, a negative reaction can arise. Let’s say that one of your guests spent a lot of time at her grandmother’s house growing up. Her grandmother grew many flowers in her large gardens. She particularly liked lavender and often times had fresh cut lavender in the house. However, grandma was very particular about her things and did not like her stuff to be touched or moved thus your guest was often reprimanded when she visited her grandmother as toddlers have a tendency to touch and break things. This guest might associate the aroma of lavender with getting yelled at. She probably will not enjoy the aroma of lavender.

• The Aroma Sensory Journey is a process where the guest chooses their aroma

This is why we focus on Aroma Sensory Journeys. We want our guest to connect to an aroma in a positive way.

A study on hyperactive children showed measureable results with preferred essential oils (sensory journey)

A study was done where researchers were trying to validate the use of essential oils to help calm hyperactive children. When the study was started, they chose lavender as this is known to be a “calming” essential oil. They taught a group of hyperactive kids how to use the aroma of lavender throughout the day. When they got the initial results, they did not look good. Most kids were not helped by lavender at all. When talking to a fellow researcher, this researcher had done a aroma preference study with kids and lavender scored very poorly with kids. Most kids did not like it. With this information, they decided to use a variety of essential oils, letting the kids choose their favorite. Once they kids were using a preferred aroma, the researchers results improved dramatically.

Not only do aromas affect us psychologically through the sense of smell, but they also affect us physiologically. It is a unpleasant example but it gets the point across. If someone were to vomit in this room, how would you react? If you smelled the vomit, you in turn would vomit? Why? Did you need to vomit? No. Your body smelled the vomit, had a visceral memory and your physical body relived that experience. It all happened through the powerful sense of smell.

• The sense of smell works physiologically through the hypothalamus which governs homeostasis

The physiological response occurs because the rhinencephalon has connections to hypothalamus and habenular nucleus. The tiny hypothalamus serves as upper management of the body’s health maintenance regulating the body’s homeostasis, or stable state of equilibrium. The hypothalamus also generates behaviors involved in eating, drinking, general arousal, rage, aggression, embarrassment, escape from danger, pleasure and copulation. It does an amazing number of housekeeping chores for such a small piece of tissue. Its lateral and anterior parts seem to support activation of the parasympathetic nervous system: drop in blood pressure; slowing of pulse; and regulation of digestion, defecation, assimilation, and reproduction in such a way as to contribute on the whole to rest and recovery. The medial and posterior hypothalamus regulates activation: acceleration of pulse and breathing rates, high blood pressure, arousal, fear and anger. Just by smelling carefully selected blended oils, Aromatherapists believe that the hypothalamus and all it controls will produce positive effects, restoring homeostasis in the body.

Hypothalamus functions: 1. Autonomic control 2. Temperature regulation 3. Thirst and control of body water 4. Appetite control 5. Endocrine control 6. Emotional reactions 7. Sleep and wakefulness 8. Stress response

Aroma Research Smelling lavender and rosemary increases free radical scavenging activity and decreases cortisol in saliva

Toshiko Atsumi and Keiichi Tonosakia, Dept of Oral Physiology, Meikai University, School of Dentistry 1-1 Keyaki-dai Sakado-shi, Saitama, 350-0283 Japan Accepted 27 Dec 2005 available online 7 Feb 2007

To further show how the sense of smell can affect hormone production and physiological responses, a study in Japan showed that simply smelling lavender and rosemary increases free radical scavenging activity and decreases cortisol level in saliva (Toshiko Atsumi and Keiichi Tonosakia, Department of Oral Physiology, Meikai University, School of Dentistry, 1-1, Keyaki-dai, Sakado-shi, Saitama 350-0283, Japan) Cortisol is the stress hormone so simply smelling an aroma can influence recovery from stress.

Essential oils work physically through topical application and through the lungs

Essential oils also work physically through topical application and through the lungs

NATURAL ROSEMARY: - (+)-LIMONENE (E)-BETA-OCIMENE (Z)-BETA-OCIMENE 1,8-CINEOLE 1-OCTEN-3-OL 19- ALPHA-HYDROXYURSOLIC-ACID 2-BETA-HYDROXYOLEANOLIC-ACID 3,5,5- TRIMETHYLHEXAN-1-OL 3-BETA-HYDROXYUREA-12,20(30)-DIEN-17-ON-ACID 3-HEXANONE Essential oils 3-METHYL-BUTAN-1-OL 3-O-ACETYLOLEANOLIC-ACID 3-O-ACETYLURSOLIC-ACID 3- OCTANOL 3-OCTANONE 4-HYDROXYBENZOYL-GLUCOSIDE 4-TERPINENYL-ACETATE 5- HYDROXY-4',7-DIMETHOXYFLAVONE 6-METHOXY-GENKWANIN 6-METHOXY-LUTEOLIN-7- GLUCOSIDE 6-METHOXYLUTEOLIN 6-METHOXYLUTEOLIN-7-METHYL-ETHER 7-ETHOXY- ROSMANOL 7-METHOXY-ROSMANOL ACETIC-ACID ALLO-AROMADENDRENE ALPHA- AMORPHENE Plant ALPHA-AMYRENONE ALPHA-AMYRIN ALPHA- ALPHA-FENCHENE contain ALPHA-FENCHOL ALPHA-FENCHYL-ACETATE ALPHA-FENCHYL-ALCOHOL ALPHA- HUMULENE ALPHA-HYDROXYHYDROCAFFEIC-ACID ALPHA-MUUROLENE ALPHA- ALPHA- PINENE ALPHA-SELINENE ALPHA-TERPINENE ALPHA-TERPINENYL-ACETATE ALPHA- TERPINEOL ALPHA-THUJENE ALPHA- APIGENIN APIGENIN-7- AR-CURCUMENE ASCORBIC- BENZYL-ALCOHOL BETA-AMYRENONE BETA-AMYRIN BETA-CAROTENE BETA- hundreds of CARYOPHYLLENE BETA-ELEMENE BETA-FENCHENE Plant: BETA-GURJUNENE BETA- OCIMENE BETA-PHELLANDRENE BETA-PINENE Plant BETA-SITOSTEROL BETA-THUJONE BETULIN BETULINIC-ACID BORNEOL BORNYL-ACETATE BORNYLENE Plant: BORON BUTAN-2-OL CADALENE CAFFEIC- CALACORENE CALAMENENE CALCIUM CAMPHENE CAMPHOR CAPROIC-ACID CARBOHYDRATES CARNOSIC- CARVACROL CARVONE individual CARYOPHYLLENE CARYOPHYLLENE-OXIDE CHLOROGENIC-ACID CINEOLE CIRSILION CIRSIMARITRIN CIS-ALPHA-BISABOLENE CIS-BETA-TERPINEOL CIS-MYRTENOL CIS- PINAN-3-ONE CIS-SABINENE-HYDRATE COPPER CUBENENE DECA-TRANS-2,TRANS-4- DIEN-1-AL DELTA-3-CARENE DELTA-4-CARENE DELTA-CADINENE DELTA-TERPINEOL DIMETHYL-STYRENE DIOSMETIN DIOSMIN DIPENTENE ELEMOL EPI-ALPHA-AMYRIN EPI-ALPHA-BISABOLOL EPIROSMANOL ERIODICTIOL ETHANOL EUGENOL-METHYL- chemicals which ETHER FAT FENCHONE FIBER GAMMA-CADINENE GAMMA-EUDESMOL GAMMA- MUUROLENE GAMMA-MUUROLOL GAMMA-TERPINENE GENKWANIN GENKWANIN-4'- METHYL-ETHER GERANIOL GLYCOLIC-ACID HEPT-TRANS-2-EN-1-AL HEPTAN-1-AL HEPTAN-2-OL HEPTANOIC-ACID HESPERIDIN HEXAN-1-AL HEXAN-1-OL HISPIDULIN HISPIDULOSIDE HUMULENE-EPOXIDE-I HUMULENE-EPOXIDE-II HYDROXY-BENZOIC-ACID- are lipid (fat) 4-BETA-D-GLUCOSIDE IRON ISOBORNEOL ISOBORNYL-ACETATE ISOBUTYL-ACETATE ISOPINOCARVEOL ISOPULEGOL ISOROSMANOL ISOROSMARICINE LABIATIC-ACID LAVANDULOL LEDENE LIMONENE LINALOL LINALOL-ACETATE LONGIFOLENE LUTEOLIN LUTEOLIN-3'-O-(3''-O-ACETYL)-BETA-D-GLUCURONIDE LUTEOLIN-3'-O-(4''-O-ACETYL)- BETA-D-GLUCURONIDE LUTEOLIN-3'-O-BETA-D-GLUCURONIDE LUTEOLIN-7-GLUCOSIDE MAGNESIUM MANGANESE MESITY-ALCOHOL METHYL-ETHER METHYL-EUGENOL soluble METHYL-HEPTENONE MONOMETHYL-ALKANE MYRCENE MYRTENOL N-METHYL- ROSMARICINE NEO-CHLOROGENIC-ACID NEO-THUJOL NEPETIN NEPETRIN NIACIN

The chemical constituents can have an effect on:

• Epithelial tissue • Connective tissue • Nerve tissue • Muscle tissue

Essential oils are made up of hundreds of individual chemicals (called constituents) each with their own molecular identity that alone, or in combination with others elicit direct biochemical effects on cells that are the basic building blocks of the human body forming epithelial tissue, connective tissue, nerve tissue and muscle tissue.

Essential oil constituents are lipophilic meaning they bind with oils (fats) allowing them to bind or penetrate tissues reaching the cellular level.

Applying essential oils to the skin can affect the body’s cells as well as enter the bloodstream to create a systemic effect

Aromatherapists believe that by applying essential oils to the skin allow their combined chemical constituents to positively affect the body’s cells. Owing to their fat solubility, essential oils will literally soak through the epithelial tissue (oil rich skin) and be transported around by the blood having systematic responses on multiple tissues be they organ or muscle. For example: Clove Bud oil is a well known dental anesthetic due to the effects of eugenol, one of its constituents:

For example, Clove bud oils major constituent eugenol inhibits voltage-gated sodium and calcium channels in nerve endings thereby contributing to anesthesia. Clove bud oil is well known as being a dental anesthetic (pain killer).

• Inhaled essential oils can enter the body through the alveoli, the lung gas transfer units

As mentioned essential oils can have an effect on the hypothalamus via the olfactory cortex but inhaled essential oils also enter body’s tissues via the alveoli, the lung gas transfer units. Once again the essential oil constituents pass into the blood stream they are whisked away to different parts of the body.

Smelling pure essential oils therefore have two bodily actions: Electrical, via neurons in the brain and physical via biochemical actions on tissue cells via the lungs. The third Aromatherapy mechanism of action is direct application of essential oils to tissues. This is often achieved through topical application from massage oils or cosmetic creams but can also come from ingestion or suppositories. • Based on the information you have learned thus far, create a script so that you may introduce Aveda aromaology to your guests.

Chapter 3: Aveda Functional Aroma Blends

Aveda Functional Aromas

What is a functional aroma?

The Heritage of Aveda is aroma. When you ask our consumers about what makes Aveda unique, aroma is the number 1 answer.

Essential oil aroma blends at Aveda focus on:

• Purefumery • Functionality

Aveda products use the power of essential oils though functional aroma blends. This essentially means we create our aromas to not only smell good (purefume) but to act as a raw ingredient within the finished product.

When we create aroma blends at Aveda, we have 2 goals in mind: the purefume aspect of the blend and the functionality of the blend.

Let’s first focus on the perfumery aspect:

• Purefumery relates to smell

• It is an art that affects the senses, emotions, and the intellect.

• A beautiful perfume has instant gratification and appeal

Perfuming is a word that is derivates from the Latin word "parfumare" meaning "through smoke". Ancient cultures such as the Egyptians tried to communicate to their gods via beautifully aromatic smoke wafting skyward. Perfume really relates to smell, what the nose detects as the odors fly toward the heavens.

Perfuming is an art that can be described as the product or process of deliberately arranging items in a way that influences and affects the senses, emotions and intellect. Whenever an perfumer or artist begins to truly create they focus on how their carefully chosen mixture of aromatic substances will move people, targeting emotions and intellect. More often than not a beautiful perfume is simply one that has instant gratification and appeal, a pleasant smell.

The target of a purefumer is the heart and mind, not just the nose

Truly great perfumes delve deeper into people firing neurons into thinking deeper, feeling deeper. This is art, this is where a perfumer wants to lead you. The real target for a perfumer is not the nose but the heart and mind.

Perfuming at Aveda means that the aromatic materials at hand are pure essential oils coerced out of their originating plants and captured in their entirety. Essential oils represent a collection of chemicals that are molecular testimony to millions of years of evolutionary trials, tribulations, attractions and success not only to the plant to the diverse web of life that they evolved with. Man has an evolved affinity with plants and their chemicals. Some chemicals can poison but some can cure just as some plant chemicals are odiferous as some are not. Sorting chemicals that heal from harm is done by specialized pharmacognasists and toxicologists. Aromatherapists use the only the aromatic healing chemicals in the form of essential oils. Perfumers and aromatherapists use the same materials but how does the pursuit of art and health happen at once?

• Functionality targets a specific action on the skin, nails, hair, or body

• Research helps determine which essential oils are best for the job

One way is to systematically approach formulation. At Aveda we look specifically how to heal the body (skin, hair, nails) meaning we target an action to produce a response then set about to find the best plants to do the job.

1. Aveda uses function first to create a product targeting a specific action

2. We search for the best plants to do the job

3. A list of essential oils is created

4. The purefumers work on the art, targeting the end consumers heart and mind

5. The blend is scientifically tested

This is known as ‘function first’ and occurs for odiferous and non odiferous plants. Odiferous plants that yield essential oils are sorted first by looking in-depth at their chemical makeup and searching for what is known about the effects those chemicals have on the body. Searches include published peer reviewed data, our own studies and traditional information that has been handed down from generation to generation. A functional short list of essential oils is collated and discussed with the perfumers (who are often part of the search team). The perfumers then start to work on their art, deliberating arranging the list materials in pursuit of the end users heart and mind. Once the aroma is constructed it is scientifically tested. Tests include physical tests such as anti oxidant tests or emotional tests such as panel testing when people are questioned on how a smell makes them feel. Aveda aromas are constructed through the art and science of pure plant products.

For the purefume aspect of the blend, we have our chief purefumer Koichi Shiozawa. Koichi trained in the major purefume houses in France where many of the world’s perfumes are created. Perfumery is a very complex art. Modern perfumes often contain hundreds of ingredients as they utilize the full array of around 10000 aromatic products whether naturally or synthetically derived. When Koichi first arrived at Aveda, he went from having 10000 ingredients to around 300. Now that we work with 90% organic essential oils, we only have around 115 oils available for blending. But because of his background, koichi can take 10 or 20 and up to 50 oils and create a beautiful aroma. This is quite a skill. Think about mixing all 12 singular notes together. Most of us would create an unpleasant blend if we tried this. Koichi, with his refined smelling skills is able to create rather complex essential oils blends. This is part of what makes Aveda unique? Have you ever had someone say to you, “You smell like Aveda” Why is that? It is not just natural as other companies also use essential oils. It is the complexity of the essential oil blends. Many companies that blend essential oils keep the blends simple. 3 or 4 maybe up to 10 blends. At Aveda, we can create more complex blends because of our purefumer.

For functionality, we have consultants and in house experts to help create blends. When we need an aroma, we first determine what function the product needs such as anti- acne, anti-inflammatory, or an ayurvedic specialty blend. Our team then researches the essential oils that have these properties. Once they have listed have the potential ingredients, Koichi works with these oils to create the purefume. Cindy Angerhofer conducts clinical testing with the final blend to confirm the functionality.

Give a brief overview of The Aveda team from the following information:

• Who is the Aveda team?

Ko-ichi Shiozawa is Aveda’s master natural purefumer

KO-ICHI SHIOZAWA:Master Natural Perfumer and Director of Aveda’s Botanical Aroma Lab

Ko-ichi Shiozawa joined Aveda in 1990 as Aveda’s Chief Perfumer and Director of the Botanical Aroma Lab. As such, he is faced with the rewarding challenge of creating transforming flower-and plant-derived aromas, derived from sustainably sourced essential oils, absolutes and organic ingredients wherever possible, for Aveda’s hair care, skin care, body care, Pure-Fume™ and makeup products. In his search for the finest essential oils and plants that are sustainably sourced, Mr. Shiozawa continues to build partnerships with producers, suppliers and farmers worldwide. Mr. Shiozawa travels around the world to keep an active and close relationship with each of these partners. Especially since the beginning of 2001, he has been concentrating his efforts and creative skill on development of a new genre of natural aromas: all organic aromas.

For 15 years prior to Aveda, Mr. Shiozawa nurtured his craft working for three major international fragrance houses in the U.S. including Takasago, Givaudan and Dragoco.

In April 2009, Mr. Shiozawa was named as Master Natural Perfumer.

Mr. Shiozawa is versed in Italian and fluent in Japanese, English and French—which landed him a scholarship to the Sorbonne University in Paris. Mr. Shiozawa was trained extensively for five years from the late 1960’s to become a perfumer by renowned French perfumers at a major perfume company in Grasse, —the birthplace of the modern perfumery in France. Cindy K. Angerhofer, Ph.D. is the Executive Director of Botanical Research for Aveda

Cindy K. Angerhofer, Ph.D. -Executive Director of Botanical Research for Aveda

As Director of Botanical Research for Aveda, Cindy and her team explore the chemistry and biology of botanical ingredients in an effort to create high performance plant-based products. With more than 25 years of experience, Cindy has used her expertise in pharmacognosy and plant-based science to help develop innovative botanical cosmetics and dietary supplements. Cindy has helped establish leading research programs that explore the science of medicinal herbs and the quality of botanical extracts.

Before joining Aveda, Cindy received a B.A. in Chemistry from Gustavus Adolphus College and a Ph.D. in Pharmacognosy from the University of Minnesota. She taught courses in the medicinal and biological chemistry of natural substances for graduate and professional students at the University of Illinois at Chicago College of Pharmacy. While at UIC, she established a bioassay screening program for antimalarial natural products and received funding from NIH (NIAID) and WHO in support of this work which led to the identification of many antimalarial compounds. She directed Research and Product Development for Tom’s of Maine, Inc. for five years and has consulted for non- profit and for-profit organizations in the natural products industry. Cindy has designed and delivered introductory, science-based curricula on medicinal herbs for pharmacists and other health care professionals as well as seminars for consumer and trade audiences. She currently serves on the Advisory Board for the American Botanical Council and the Board of the American Herbal Products Association. She frequently reviews manuscripts for several scientific journals in natural products and has authored more than 40 peer-reviewed publications.

Cindy loves to sing, is an avid birdwatcher, and enjoys biking to work (except in winter!). Guy Vincent is an Aveda Purefumer

GUY VINCENT- Perfumer

A self-taught perfumer with a fervent passion for crafting unusually beautiful and complex aromas, Guy Vincent is one of the few remaining in-house perfumers in the beauty industry. Born in Australia, Guy has traveled the world extensively, working and visiting raw material manufacturing and sourcing locations on six continents—all experiences which have helped to broaden his natural perfumery and essential oil knowledge. Guy’s complex skill set includes: perfuming, cosmetic chemistry, complementary medicine practice and technical knowledge of the personal care industry.

Guy joined Aveda in 2010 as a natural perfumer under the mentorship of Aveda Master Perfumer Ko-Ichi Shiozawa. Since coming to Aveda Guy has worked tirelessly, amalgamating the world’s finest essential oils derived from organic, sustainably sourced plants and flowers to compliment high-performing, naturally-derived personal care products. Working with and traveling to visit essential oil producers, suppliers and farmers around the world nicely compliment Guy’s enthusiasm for creativity and artistic inspiration when creating new product aromas. Currently, Guy is crafting organic air care and therapeutically beneficial aromas for inclusion in upcoming products.

Prior to Aveda, Guy spent 16 years crafting aromas for leading brands, including: Aromatherapy Associates, This Works, In Essence, Four Seasons Hotels and Mandarin Oriental Hotels.

Guy honed his skill for aroma blending while apprenticing with a master craft brewer in Australia. In his free time Guy enjoys cross country skiing, modern literature and amateur gastronomy

Aveda Consultants

• Drs Vinod and Kusum Upadhyay are ayurvedic doctors and Aveda Consultants

Vinod and Kusum Upadhyay

These Ayurvedic physicians have been working with Aveda since1972. Aveda was founded in 1978 so they have been with Aveda since before Aveda was even Aveda. They own and run an ayurvedic clinic in a town called Haridwar in Northern India outside Rishikesh. The name Upadhyay means “teacher” and Vinod comes from a lineage of Ayurvedic teachers and practitioners that is 5000 years old. Specifically, he is a specialist in Ayurvedic herbology and he also creates many of the medicines he uses in his clinic. He recogonizes and uses over 30,000 species of plants. Kusum is an ayurvedic specialist in women’s health.

• Pierre Franchomme, a noted aroma pharmacologist, created the Men’s aroma and is an Aveda consultant

Pierre Franchomme

Born to Herbalist parents Pierre Franchomme has a long history with natural medicinal studies. Mr. Franchomme, a protégé of Jean Valnet, chose to dedicate his professional life to studying aromatherapy and is one of the worlds leading Clinical Aromatherapists. Some of his accomplishments are the scientific discovery of the energy of aromatic molecules, creation of a laboratory for aromatherapy based on the chemotyped essential oils and the introduction of new essential oils in aromatherapy (Helichrysum italicum, Inula graveolens, Ravensara aromatica, etc.)

He is the Author of reference books; L’Aromathérapie Exactement and La Science de l’Aromathérapie as well as a Professor at the Faculty of Natural Medicine and Ethno Medicine in Paris.

In 1990, Estee Lauder Companies brought Pierre on board to be the expert consultant in clinical aromatherapy and pharmacology, where he continues to support Aveda in their efforts to produce high quality, functional aroma blends.

We will focus on 4 functions:

• Anti acne • Balancing through Elemental Nature • Anti-inflammatory / anti-oxidant • Chakra balancing

We will focus our time today on 4 functions of essential oils and Aveda’s specific functional aroma blend:

1. Anti-acne or anti microbial – Outer Peace 2. Balancing through elemental nature – Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrates 3. Anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant – Enbrightenment, Green Science and Aveda Men 4. Chakra Balancing: Aveda Chakra

Function 1: anti-acne or anti-microbial Outer Peace aroma:

• The Outer Peace aroma is an anti-acne, anti-microbial blend

Pass around the Outer Peace skin care products and have the participants smell the product.

• Lemon Tea Tree and Geranium are the 2 active essential oils

The Outer Peace Skin Care line was created to target acne. For the functional aroma, certified organic lemon tea tree and geranium were chosen for their activity against Propionibacterium acnes (P.acnes), the microbe responsible for acne.

• A 50/50 blend showed a very good inhibition of the P. acnes bacteria with a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 0.0391 compared to 5% salicylic acid with a MIC of 0.1563%

Test data suggests that a 50/50 blend of these two essential oils showed very good inhibition of P.acnes growth with a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 0.0391% compared to the standard active ingredient, 5% salicylic acid with an MIC of 0.1563%.

The entire line also uses the FDA recognized salicylic acid in different concentrations but in our formulation the aroma adds to the anti-acne claims.

• What other aromas can you detect in the blend?

• This light soothing blend is complemented by the anti-irritant activity of lavender and vetiver

To compliment these two important oils, lavender and vetiver were added for their anti-irritant activity, along with other citrus, floral, wood and root oils, historically used to reduce stress and tension. The result is a beautiful, light and soothing blend. • Lemon Tea Tree is so named because of its similarity to authentic tea tree

Pass around blotters of Lemon Tea Tree and review some of it key features

Lemon Tea Tree

Botanical Latin name: Leptospermum petersonii.

Extraction method: distilled

Plant Part: leaves

Aromatic Qualities: citrus, medicinal, sharp,

Noteworthy anecdotes: Lemon tea tree is so named due to its similarity in activity to authentic tea tree. It is not a combination of tea tree and lemon but rather a very distince oil in and of itself. Written reports of Lemon Tea Tree are available as early as 1918. In its native Australia, it is considered anti infectious, anti viral, antiseptic, expectorant, anti-inflammatory and a digestive stimulant (Mark Webb). The oil is considered stimulating in minute quantities and sedating at normal strength. The herb is burned as an incense and smudge stick.

Emotional Attributes: atmospheric cleanser of negative emotions, aids concentration.

Aveda Sensory Profile Testing: refreshed, awakened, calm, confident, uplifted.

Traditional Aromatherapy uses: oily skin, acne, insect repellent, dandruff, respiratory complaints, cold and flu.

Chemistry: The essential oil contains geranial and citral as major components. These compounds are known to have significant antiseptic activity (5 times more potent than phenol) as well as contributing to the pleasant, lemony scent of the oil.

Safety Data: may be slightly irritating to eyes and skin References:

Harborne, J.B. and Baxter, H. eds., Phytochemical Dictionary, Taylor and Francis, Washington, DC, 1993.

Webb, Mark, Bush Sense, self published, Griffin Press, Adelaide, Australia, 2000, pg 69; no references.

Geranium is often referred to as Rose Geranium and should be not mistaken for the flowers grown in flower boxes

Pass around blotters with Geranium oil and review its main features Geranium essential oil

Botanical Latin name: Pelargonium graveolens

Extraction: steam distillation

Plant Part: leaves

Aromatic Qualities: floral, green, sweet, citrus-like with a hint of rose

Noteworthy anecdotes: The Latin name for geranium stems from the Greek, pelargos, meaning stork, because the shape of the seed capsules are long and pointy like a stork’s bill. Due to the confusion of the common name geranium, Pelargonium is often mistaken for the Geranium flowers commonly grown in flower boxes which are true members of the genus Geranium. Geranium oil is referred to as Rose Geranium, and is called “the poor man’s rose” as the two oils share some similar chemistry and therefore, aroma. Emotional Attributes: stress, discontent; improves mental outlook; for the workaholic who needs to reconnect with the self and emotions.

Aveda Sensory Profile Testing: soothed, calm, relaxed, refreshed, stimulated, uplifted.

Traditional Aromatherapy uses: antidepressant, antifungal, antispasmodic, anti- inflammatory, astringent; acne, bruises, burns, scars, eczema, rash, varicosities, cellulite, stress, oily skin, dermatitis, neuralgia.

Scientific evidence: Significant antibacterial activity has been shown for the essential oil of Pelargonium graveolens (Dorman, Hammer). The oil exhibits broad antifungal activity (Shin, Pattnaik), as well as antioxidant activity in the essential oil and the hydrosol (Sun, et al).

Aveda 5-Lipoxygenase testing (anti-inflammatory): use level 0.03%

Safety Data - May be slightly irritating to eyes and skin

References

Dorman, H.J. and Deans, S.G. (2000) Antimicrobial agents from plants: antibacterial activity of plant volatile oils. J. Appl. Microbiol. 88(2): 308-16.

Shin, S (2003) Anti-aspergillus activities of plant essential oils and their combination effects with ketoconazole or amphotericin B. Arch. Pharm. Res. 26(5): 389-93

Sun W, Xu Z, Wang C, Qu W, Lin C. (2005), Study on antioxidant activity of essential oils and its monomer from Pelargonium graveolens, Zhong Yao Cai Feb;28(2):87-9.

Function 2: Balancing through Elemental Nature

Elemental Nature is an ayurvedic customization philosophy

Another way we create functional aroma blends is by using the Aveda Elemental Nature philosophy which is based on the 5000 year old Indian healing tradition of Ayurveda.

• The 5 elements represent 5 forces that are present in all living things:

Ayurveda tells us that the essence of the 5 natural elements, Infinity, Air, Fire, Water, and Earth is found in all living things, including you. When these elements are balanced, you skin and scalp look healthy, vital and radiant. When skin and scalp concerns surface, it is a signal that an element needs to be balanced.

The elements cannot be taken literally. You do not have an actual fire burning within you. Rather, these elements represent the five forces that are present within all living things

• Infinity represents the open expanse of the universe

Infinity: open expanse of the universe. Look around this room. What is it composed of? 99.99% empty space. But that is what makes it useful. If this room were solid, we could not hold class in here. Infinity represents open space

• Air represents all movement

Air moves across space and thus it represents movement. The movement of your body, you blood, the swaying of trees etc. any movement is a representation of air.

• Fire represents change or transformation

Fire creates heat, which then creates change or transformation. If you burn a log in a fire place, when the fire goes out, ash remains. Fire creates this change and represents all changes within the body like digestion, the transformation of energy into food,

• Water represents cohesive and attractive forces and is the glue that holds the elements together

Water represent cohesive or attractive forces. Gravity is a good example for water. What does gravity do for us? It holds us on the planet and creates a relationship between us and the earth so we can live off of it. Water is glue that holds the elements together.

• Earth represents matter

Earth represents solid matter. If this room is 99.99% empty space, the .01% that seems solid is earth: the floor, ceiling, walls, tables, chairs etc.

The 5 elements combine into 3 functional groups:

Vata

Pitta

Kapha

The five elements combine into 3 functional groups as they interact within the body: Infinity/ Air relate closely together as do Water / Earth. Fire combines with a little water but the combination is mostly fire so we label it Fire only.

Prakruti is the mind body constitution that you are born with and it never changes throughout life

All of these elements are present within all people; if you did not have Infinity / Air, you would be a statue. However each person has a unique combination of these elements that make up their mind body constitution called the Prakruti. You are born with a particular Prakruti that never changes throughout your life. It is just who you are naturally. Some people have more infinity / air with just some fire, and a little bit of water and earth. These people are quick (movement) thinkers, social, and move around a lot. Other people have more fire, or more water /earth but they always have some of all 5 elements.

• Vikruti is an imbalanced state caused by too much of a particular element.

Because Prakruti never changes, there is little we can do to balance it. However, there is another term called Vikruti which are imbalanced states within the elements. A vikruit is when you have too much of a particular element for who you are. You can go out of balance in any of the 5 elements.

• Our experiences including diet, lifestyle, work, emotions, and stress have an effect on the elements

• Like qualities increase like

How do you get an imbalance? According to Ayurveda, every experience you have manifests in your body and mind. In addition, our experiences influence the elements and can either increase or decrease an element within you. When your lifestyle, work, diet, environment, etc cause a particular element to increase, then that element increases.. According to ayurveda, like qualities increase like. If your lifestyle choices increase a particular element, you might develop an imbalance. For instance, if you travel frequently, travel is movement so it increase infinity / air so while traveling you might increase Infinity Air and then notice an imbalance of too much movement like insomnia. During the summer, if you go out in the sun which has fire qualities, your skin will turn red and burn which is too much fire and is a fire vikruit.

• Focus on using elemental nature to describe a condition; not the individual

Prakruti focuses on the individual as a whole, whereas vikruti focuses on the condition. For our purposes, it is important not to label people (more about Prakruti) as being a particular element because everybody has all 3. It is better to identify the element(s) of an imbalance (vikruti). So a person is not Fire, but their skin may have a Fire imbalance.

Infinity /Air Fire Water / Earth Light Light Heavy

Cold Hot Cold

Dry Moist Moist

To make this easy, we will use the 3 main qualities of each element, use the power point to walk the group thorugh the qualities

Think of Infinity Air: Is it Light or heavy light Cold or hot cold Dry or moist dry

The 3 main qualities are light cold and dry. Air is thus increased by light cold and dry foods, weather, and activities

Fire: Light or heavy light Cold or hot hot Dry or moist moist (there is a little water in this combo; think hot and humid)

Water/Earth: Light or heavy heavy Cold or hot cold Dry or moist moist

What is unique about each element? Infinity / Air = dry share light with fire and cold with water / earth Fire = hot Water / Earth = heavy

To create balance, you need to use the opposite qualities to settle the element. Is it light or heavy, cold or hot, dry or moist?

Which element(s) do Peppermint and Patchouli balance?

Because it is light cold and dry, it balances fire and water/earth. The two main properties of peppermint are cooling and stimulating. Fire needs to be cooled and water /earth needs to be stimulated.

What do we call peppermint from an elemental nature perspective? Is it light or heavy, cold or hot, dry or moist? Because it is heavy hot (or warming) and moist it balances infinity / air

Infinity Air needs heavy hot and moist to create balance Fire needs heavy cold and dry Water Earth needs light hot and dry

Our consultatants, the ayurvedic doctors Upadhyays, along with our in house aroma team classified all the essential oils Aveda uses based on which elemental nature they balance.

The Aveda team can then create functional elemental nature blends

• The Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrates use the Elemental Nature Philosophy to balance scalp conditions.

The Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrates utilize ayurvedic philosophy to balance scalp conditions with the power of essential oils. There are 3 functional aroma blends. Infinity Air for dry scalp conditions, Fire for red and irritated scalps and water earth for oily scalp conditions.

• Smell the 3 blends and determine which elements they balance

Put rosemary, rose, Vetiver, and on blotters labeling them 1,2 and 3. Have the participants smell the aromas and categorize them according to which element they balance. Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrate would contain each oil.

Aroma 1 is Rosemary which is in Water / Earth (light, stimulating) Aroma 2 is Rose which is in Fire (floral aromas balance fire) Aroma 3 is Vetiver which is in Infinity / Air (heavy, hot moist, )

Have the group also smell the 3 scalp remedy balancing concentrates and guess which one is which. See if they can detect the aromas from the previous exercise.

• Smell the 3 blends and guess which balancing concentrate it is.

• See if you can detect the aromas smelled in the previous exercise

Review the oils within each Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrate as the group smells the final blends. These products are used for scalp treatments as a stand alone experience or a part of Botanical Hair and Scalp Therapy.

Scalp Conditions Elemental Nature Product that Balances the Condition when Out of to be Balanced Balance

Product Key Aroma- Benefit therapeutic Essential Oils

Scalp is Dry Scalp Remedy ƒ spots of dry ƒ Cedarwood Conditions Dry patches Conditioning ƒ Patchouli Scalp Infinity/Air Nature ƒ overall dryness Concentrate ƒ Vetiver Conditions ƒ small dry flakes

Scalp is: Scalp Remedy ƒ Redness Soothing ƒ Lavender Soothes Red ƒ Irritation Concentrate ƒ Blue Camomile and Irritated ƒ Rose Scalp Conditions

Fire Nature

Scalp is Oily Scalp Remedy ƒ visible Purifying ƒ Rosemary Purifies Oily oil/sebum ƒ Tea Tree Scalp ƒ large oily flakes ƒ Orange Conditions Water/Earth Nature Concentrate

The Infinity / Air Balancing Concentrates balances dry scalp conditions with vetiver, patchouli, and cedarwood

Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrate for Infinity / Air contains cedar wood, patchouli, vetiver, ginger, lavender, and other oils

The Fire Balancing Concentrate soothes red and irritated scalps with rose, German chamomile, and lavender

Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrate for Fire contains lavender, blue chamomile, helichrysum, rose, ylang ylang and other oils

The Water Earth Balancing Concentrate balances oily scalp conditions with a bi phasic formula containing rosemary, tea tree, and orange

Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrate for Water contains rosemary, tea tree, orange, lavender, peppermint and other essential oils. The bi-phase formula contains organic soy oil to nurture and protect the scalp and a liquid phase with mild astringents to purify the scalp while removing excess oil. Prior to applying, shake the formula together to mix the two phases.

All of the blends contain lavender which is considered a full spectrum oil that is good for all elemental natures.

These Balancing Concentrates are used in the Scalp Balance Treatment within Botanical Therapy

These oils are used in the Scalp Balance Treatment within Botanical Therapy or can be used for any scalp treatment

Function 3: anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant Anti-inflammatory and Anti-oxidant functional aroma blends

Review with the class the following. To test for anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, Aveda uses the following tests:

Aveda test anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects with the 5LOX assay and the DPPH assay

To test for anti-inflammatory benefits Aveda uses the 5LOX assay. This test tube experiment evaluates the anti-inflammatory activity of a potential ingredient through the use of 5-lipoxygenese (5LOX), a integral enzyme in the human inflammatory pathway.

To test for anti oxidant blends Aveda uses the DPPH assay. This test tube experiment evaluates a potential ingredients ability to scavenge free radicals by combing it with diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazine (DPPH) which carries an odd electron. If the electron is paired off after combining, anti-oxidant activity is suggested.

More detailed info for trainer (also in the appendix of the workbook) DPPH assay: This is a test tube experiment to evaluate a potential ingredient’s ability to scavenge free radicals or its antioxidant activity. The ingredient (e.g. essential oil) is combined with diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazine (DPPH), which carries an odd electron. If this particular ingredient is a free radical scavenger, the odd electron becomes paired off. This action results in a direct color change within the well. The plate is then inserted into a spectrophotometric plate reader which generates specific values. The result, therefore, is determined by these values in combination with the color change. From the result, we can then determine use level in formulation.

5LOX assay: This test tube experiment evaluates the anti-inflammatory activity of a potential ingredient through the use of 5-lipoxygenase (5LOX). 5LOX is an integral enzyme in the human inflammatory pathway and inhibiting this enzyme reduces the production of inflammatory mediators (leukotrienes) thusly reducing inflammation. So within this assay, the ingredient is analyzed for its inhibition of the 5LOX enzyme. Results are obtained only through values produced by the plate reader (this assay is not colorimetric), and from these results, we determine use level in formulation.

In groups, visit the 3 stations and around the room, smelling the products, and answering the questions in your workbook

Set up 3 stations around the room: Enbrightenment, Green Science, and Aveda Men.

Each station should have the complete line of products within that franchise. In addition each station should have the information sheet (run off in color pages 41-43 from the workbook on separate pieces of paper) on each franchise which has basic information about each line along with information on 2 of the main essential oils within that range. Anti-inflammatory and Anti-oxidant functional aroma blends

Divide the class into groups of 2-4. Have the groups visit each of the stations smelling the products, reviewing the information sheets and answering the questions in their workbooks.

At the completion, review the answers

1. What are the two main functional aromas in the Enbrightenment aroma?

Lavender and Rosemary

2. Inflammation and oxidation have been indicated in contributing to ______.hyperpigmentation

3. True of False: Lavender is the most versatile of all of the essential oils.

True

4. List at least 3 properties of Lavender.

Anti-stress, anti-microbial, anti-insomnia, reduction of cortisol, anti-septic, burns and wound healing?

5. What are the complimentary aromas in the Enbrightenment blend? Geranium and sandalwood

6. List 2 properties of Rosemary oil.

Anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, remembrance

7. From what part of Rosemary is the oil distilled?

Flowering branches

Green Science: a anti-aging skin care range that targets fine lines and wrinkles (insert product image here)

1. What are the 2 main functional essential oils in the Green Science aroma?

Rose and sandalwood

2. The Green Science aroma showed anti-inflammatory effects at _____%. .006%

3. Inflammation has been indicated in the formation of ______and ______. Fine lines and wrinkles

4. What are the complimentary aromas in the Green Science aroma? Geranium, grapefruit, bergamot, cistus, roman camomile, and lavender

5. Rose is known as the ______of essential oils. queen

6. From where does Aveda get Sandalwood oil?

Australia

7. Rose has a calming effect on ______as measured by decreases in blood pressure and adrenaline.

Parasympathetic nervous system activity

8. What is one of the chemical constituents that is in Sandalwood? bisabolol

Aveda Men: a range of hair care and skin specifically created for the needs of me (insert 2 products images on of haircare (dark colored products) and one of skin care (light colored products

1. Which Aveda consultant created the Aveda Men’s aroma?

Pierre Franchome

2. What are 2 of the main aromas in Aveda Men?

Patchouli and orange

3. What are the complimentary aromas in Aveda Men?

Lavender, vetiver, spearmint, and lemon

4. What does Patchouli mean in the Tamil language?

Green leaf

5. List 3 properties and / or uses of patchouli oil.

Promote the formation of scar tissue, calming effect on parasympathetic nervous system, decreases blood pressure and adrenaline, signature scent of “flower children”

6. List 3 properties and / or uses of orange oil.

Anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, and anti-anxiety

Information sheets:

Enbrightenment: A skin care line that targets hyperpigmentation, discoloration, and dark spots.

Enbrightenment : An aroma with organic lavender, rosemary, sandalwood and geramium that is soothing and calming to the skin

Anti-inflammatory (5 lox ) and anti-oxidant (DPPH) studies suggest good activity for the aroma blend. These 2 effects are useful in any skin care formulation. Furthermore, inflammation and oxidation have been indicated in contributing to hyperpigmentation.

Botanical Latin name: Lavandula angustifolia .

Extraction: distilled

Plant Part: flowering tops

Aromatic Qualities: floral, sweet, slightly herbaceous

Lavender comes from the word, ‘lavare’, meaning ‘to wash’. Lavender has had a long association with bathing and cleanliness, perhaps because it was a relatively effective antiseptic in an era of generally unsanitary conditions. It is evident in our modern words, lavatory and lavage. Lavender is the most versatile of all of the essential oils and a common saying in aromatherapy is “When in doubt, use lavender”. It is also the most widely studied essential oil and studies suggest a number of properties including anti- anxiety, anti-microbial, anti- stress, anti-insomnia, and reduction of cortisol (stress hormone) levels in the body among many others.

Pass around a blotter with Rosemary:

Botanical Latin name: Rosmarinus officinalis L.

Extraction: steam distillation

Plant Part: flowering branches

Aromatic Qualities: herbaceous, camphor, with woody-balsamic undertones.

The name means “dew of the sea” - from the Latin ros, dew, and marinus, sea. This well known culinary herb was made famous by Shakespeare’s Hamlet: “there’s rosemary, that’s for remembrance”. In ancient times it was often included in special ceremonies such as weddings and funerals to remember the beloved or the departed, respectively. In antiquity rosemary was associated with Aphrodite, the goddess of love.. Studies have shown that rosemary essential oil has antibacterial and antifungal activity due to the actions of several of its constituents, including 1,8-cineole

Green Science: A functional, certified organic aroma of rose, sandalwood, geranium oil, grapefruit oil, bergamot oil, cistus, roman camomile, and lavender is soothing and calming to the skin.

Inflammation is the root cause to many skin conditions but it has been shown to be directly indicated in fine line and wrinkle formation. The Green science aroma blend has shown great anti inflammatory activity through 5- Lox tests.

Rose and Australian Sandalwood are two of the main ingredients within the Green Science aroma:

Pass around a blotter with Rose Rose essential oil

Botanical Latin name: Rosa damascena

Extraction: steam distillation

Plant Part: flowers

Aromatic Qualities: floral, sweet, heady, spicy

The rose is the most celebrated of flowers, symbol of love and beauty and long recognized as representing the feminine principle. It is also revered for inspiring spiritual devotion, representing love on all levels. Rose has a long history of use throughout civilization and a multitude of cultures as a food, medicine and cosmetic.

The precious rose oil is obtained by careful steam distillation of the freshly picked flowers of the Damask rose, mainly in Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco and China. There are several reasons for the high cost of rose oil. It takes several hundred man-hours to pick the 3-4 tons of flowers needed to produce 1 kg of rose oil; it takes 30-60 roses to make 1 drop of oil. It also contains very few secretory cells, making it one of the most expensive of all the essential oils. (1 kilo of rose = 1 ml of oil compared to 1 kilo of lavender = 12 ml of oil) More than 350 compounds have been identified, hinting at its broad range of activity. It is known as the “queen of essential oils” In studies, Rose has shown a calming effect on sympathetic nervous system activity as measured by by decreases in blood pressure and adrenaline.

Australian Sandalwood: Pass around a blotter of Sandalwood Botanical Latin name: Santalum spicatum.

Extraction: steam distillation

Plant Part: heartwood

Aromatic Qualities: earthy, woody, sweet, balsamic, powdery finish Sandalwood has always been considered a sacred tree, whether native to India, Hawaii or Australia. Though the species may vary, each culture recognized the inherent wisdom of these genera that has carried an association with metaphysics, spirituality and wide ranging religious practices. The wood was valued for its insecticidal properties against tropical pests and was often used in building sacred temples; not only were they resistant to termite damage, the fragrance was thought to put the occupants into a calm, receptive and meditative state. Australian sandalwood has been reported to have bisabolol constituents which studies have showen to be anti-inflammatory activity .

Aveda Men Pass around the Men’s products. Have the participants notice the differences with this aroma compared to the Green Science and Embrightenment. Even though the aromas are quite different, the Aveda Men’s aroma was also found to have both anti oxidant and anti inflammatory effects.

The aroma was created by Pierre Franchromme a noted aroma pharmacologist. Two the main oils are patchouli and orange.

The Aveda Men’s aroma was found to have both anti oxidant and anti inflammatory effects.

Two of the main ingredients are patchouli and orange.

Pass around a blotter of patchouli

Patchouli essential oil

Botanical Latin name: Pogostemon cablin

Extraction: steam distillation

Plant Part: leaves

Aromatic Qualities: earthy, musty, herbaceous, balsamic with wood undertones.

Noteworthy anecdotes: The etymology is from the Greek pogon, meaning beard, and stemon, stamen; the stamens of the small flowers are hairy. In the Tamil language of South Asia and India where patchouli grows, pach means green, and ilai, leaf. This unlikely member of the mint family shares little of the aroma of most of its relatives; it is reminiscent of root oil, though is distilled from the leaves. Indian shawls imported to England were originally packed with patchouli leaves to repel insects; sales lagged when they were later sold without the distinctive lingering scent. It enjoyed a surge in popularity during the 1960’s and was the signature scent of a generation of ‘flower children’. Patchouli oil is an important perfume component and fixative, but is also used to flavor soft drinks. Patchouli was historically used in skin care to promote the formation of scar tissue. Studies have shown anti-fungal activity as well as a calming effect on sympathetic nervous system activity as measured by decreases in blood pressure and adrenaline.

Pass around a blotter of Orange

Orange oil Botanical Latin name: Citrus sinensis

Extraction: steam distillation

Plant Part: fruit peel

Aromatic Qualities: fresh, light, sweet, fruity, citrusy

Noteworthy anecdotes: This native of the Far East is one of the most recognized and universally appealing fragrances known, probably in part due to its pleasant and wide spread enjoyment of the tasty fruit. It is widely used in non-toxic household cleansers and solvents. Numerous studies have reported antifungal, antibacterial, and anti-anxiety activity.

Function 4: Chakra Balancing

Introduce the concept of Chakras:

The Aveda Chakra aromas represent the heritage of Aveda: Aromaology and Ayurveda

The chakras represent the heritage of Aveda since the company was founded upon ayurvedic principles along with the power of essential oils. Aveda created these functional aroma blends to keep this heritage alive.

Ask: what is a chakra?

• Chaka means “wheel”

• Chakras are junctions between mind and body

• Chakra relate to physical,mental and emotional characteristics,

Explain: Chakra means “wheel” and the chakras are 7 spinning wheels of colored energy that are said to be junction points between consciousness and matter. This means they are links between the mind and body. The chakra are tools for personal growth so by listening to the body one can cannot oneself to the various issues that arise in life whether physical, mental, emotional, or spiritual. The system derives from ayurvedic philosophy which has a history of over 5000 years.

There are two major flows of energy through the chakras:

• Ascending flow • Descending or manifesting flow

The energy that flows through the chakras in called kundalini. Kundalini is said to be a coiled serpent. When this energy awakens, it spirals upward (like a snake) from the 1st to the 7th (and back down) chakras to create the spin of the centers. The upward flow of energy is called the ascending flow and it connects us to a sense of purpose and to something greater than ourselves. The first 2 chakras relate strongly to the physical, 3-5 relate strongly to the mind, and 6-7 relate strongly to spirituality. The movement upward thus moves us from the physical through the mind and on to something greater than ourselves. Any time you are wondering “why we are here”, “what is our greater purpose” this is an awakening of this energy in the body. It helps us find a sense of purpose. This awakening of energy has sparked all of the religious beliefs in the world as people from all cultures seek meaning in their life.

The energy also flows from the 7th to the 1st chakra and this is called the descending or manifesting current. This energy takes that sense of purpose and brings in into your mind and then down in the physical world. It is how we manifest our ideas into physical reality. If you are a massage therapist, esthetician, nail technician, or hairdresser and some point in your life you had to say I want to be a massage therapist, etc. You then researched schools, rearranged your schedule, found the funds necessary to attend school, studied and learned and graduated from a program to become a massage therapist. This is the descending flow in action whether you were conscious of it or not. Any time you take an idea and manifest it, that is utilizing the manifesting current of the chakras.

• Chakras are the 7 main energy centers of the body

• What is energy?

Chakras are energy centers: What is energy? Energy is a physical phenomenon. Flashing back to a physics class in high school, the physical universe is made up of matter and energy. They are neither created nor destroyed. So energy is simply physical. It is more subtle than solid matter so it is often interpreted differently. Sometimes people say they do not believe in the body’s energy. But if the body does not have energy and energy is not real, how does your mobile phone work? Your voice shows up on the other side of the world through nothing. That concept can seem weird. Because energy is subtle it is often interpreted as something spiritual. But that is a wholly different aspect of life whereas energy is simply a physical force.

Everyone has felt energy at some point. If you go to a funeral, there is something that you feel as a group of people is mourning the loss of a loved one. Yet you cannot touch this something you can only feel it. What you are feeling is the energy of the group. This energy is always around though in intense situations like a funeral, it is even easier to sense.

• Chakra are tools for personal growth

• Let go of the idea of “balanced” or “unbalanced” chakras

The chakras are not strange or mystical. They are practical tools for personal growth and everyone is familiar with at least one of them even though they may not have called it a “chakra”.

Have you ever been “heartbroken?” What do you mean? Did your heart break? Obviously no or you would be dead. So we are talking in non-direct language when we say heartbroken. But we all know what we mean when we say heartbroken. There is a reason we do not say “elbow broken” or “knee broken”. When we go through the loss of a relationship, we process those emotions through the heart center. This is simply the heart chakra. Saying you are heart broken is the same thing as saying my heart chakra is talking to me. The heart chakra is where we process our connections to others through friendships and relationships. We have 6 other centers where we process 6 other facets of life.

Let go of the idea of balanced or imbalanced chakras or open and closed chakras. Are you healthy? If so, can you be healthier? Of course you can, so your health is on a spectrum with as unhealthy as you can be at one end and as healthy as you can. Everyone is somewhere between these 2 ends. Based on your diet, exercise, lifestyle choice, stress and many other factors, you are either moving toward better health or moving away from better health. The same is true for the chakras. Based on your experiences, you are either moving towards the “balanced” qualities or moving towards the “imbalanced” or “out of balance” properties. When you see the charka cards, it discuss properties when balanced and when out of balance so interpret this loosely so when you are moving towards balance these are the properties that you notice and when you are moving in the out of balance direction, these are the qualities that arise. In other words, do not think of the chakras in black and white, either balanced or imbalanced. Rather think of them as gray and your life experiences are helping you explore this gray through the energy of the chakras. If you are going through a divorce, it does mean your heart center is imbalanced. It just is active as you process this relationship loss and subsequent change in your life.

• The aromas do not “fix” the chakras

• They can be used to enhance a meditation or yoga practice.

At Aveda, we created 7 aromas to work with the chakra centers. They are not magical aromas that fix the chakras. You cannot spray Chakra 5 (the center of expression) around your quiet partner at home and expect him to all of a sudden start expressing his emotions. Instead the aromas help you bring you awareness to these chakras through the power of essential oils. Once you are focused on this center, you can then process your experiences to help you move towards more connection to each aspect of the self. The Chakras aroma were created by the Aveda Team along with the guidance of Drs. Vinod and Kusum Upadhyay

• Pierre Franchome

• Ko-ichi Shiozawa

To create these aromas we worked with our consultants, Drs Vinod and Kusum Upadhyay. We discussed these ayurvedic doctors in the consultant section earlier in this chapter. If you remember, Vinod Upadhyay is a specialist in ayurvedic herbology and he creates his own medicines from plants that he uses in his clinic. The Upadhyays selected the essentials oils that have functionality with each Chakra. Pierre Franchomme, who studies the medicinal properties of plants from a western point of view, added his take. So if this chakra works with these physical issues, these essential oils work with these issues. He was only involved at the very beginning of the project Once we had a selection of oils for each chakra. Koichi Shiozawa then went to work creating purefumes with the selected oils. Once we had aromas that he liked, the aromas were sent to India. The Upadhyays worked with them in their clinic and gave feedback (more of this oil, etc) and they went back and forth with Koichi until the Upadhyays were happy with the functionality of the blends and Koichi was happy with the purefume aspect.

Give each table a set of Chakra cards. Have the table review the information on each chakra smelling each of the blends as they do so. One person can read the info on the card while the others smell the aroma. Each person at the table should read the info about at least one chakra.

Review the chakras with the group.

Chakra 1 is the root center

• Muladhara – the root

• Location – the base of the spine

• Connects us to our sense of survival, security, and the physical self

Chakra 1 is called muladhara (“the root”) or the root center and is the foundation of the entire system. It is located at the base of the spine. It relates to our sense of security and safety and is our strongest connection to the physical self. Many of us spend our time “thinking in our head” and only pay attention to the body when there is pain. The 1st chakra helps us tune in to the physical self so we learn to listen to what the body wants to tell us. Babies in the first month of life are exploring the physical self. Their eyes do not focus and they are essentially physical beings. When they are hungry they cry, when they are cold, they cry, when they have gas they cry. Etc. Once these basic needs are met, they settle down again. They are setting their physical foundation. This is the center to focus on when you need to listen to the body and whenever life gets out of control with stress as it is the grounding center that connects us to our basic needs.

• Sound – lam

• Aroma- vetiver, patchouli and frankincense

The symbols on the cards are traditional symbols of the chakras. Each chakra is visually represented by a lotus flower with a different number of petals. The first chakra has 4 petals. (In the Sanskrit alphabet there are 50 letters and in the first 6 chakras there are 50 petals so each petal represents a different letter) The chakras are said to be spinning wheels of colored energy so each has a color. The rainbow is the most basic system used. ROYGBIV (red, orange, yellow, green, light blue, dark blue (instead of indigo) and violet. Red is the heaviest frequency of color it is the heaviest or lowest chakra so the symbol on the 1st chakra is red. The symbol in the middle is the Sanskrit symbol for the seed sound of the chakra. A seed sound is a mantra that you could repeat to yourself that is said to resonate with the energy of the chakra to help you focus on the center, much in the same way the aromas help you focus on the chakras. The seed sound of the 1st chakra is lam and that is the symbol for LAM. Many westerners do not connect to mantras so at Aveda we also use a word for each chakra that represents its function in the body. One can repeat these words to focus on the chakras. the word for the 1st chakra is grounding. The aroma of the first chakra is vetiver, patchouli and frankincense.

Vetiver is a root oil that is used for the root center

What is vetiver? • As an example of ayurvedic thinking, the first or root chakra contains vetiver. Vetiver oil comes from the root of a grass. As the roots of the grass ground the plant and connect it to its survival, so the aroma connects us the 1st chakra our grounding center

Vetiver: Botanical Latin name: Vetiveria zizanoides

Extraction: steam distillation

Plant Part: roots

Aromatic Qualities: very deep earthy, woodsy aroma with sweet undertones

Noteworthy antedotes: Vetiver has been used traditionally in bath and massage oils to aid relaxation and centering. Inhabitants of Java made innovative screens from the vetiver roots and when used in a window or a fan it released the aroma throughout the house. Vetiver is an extremely relaxing stress reducer that helps relieve stiffness. Vetiver has been described as sedating, restoring, and centering.

• Chakra 2 is the pleasure center

• Svadhisthana - sweetness

• Location – below the navel

• Exploring the physical world though the 5 senses to nourish and vitalize the physical self

Chakra 2 is svadhisthana (“sweetness”) or the pleasure center and this is the center of our connection to the physical world around us through the 5 senses. It is located just below (about 2 fingers’ width) the navel. Chakra 1 connects us to our physical self and chakra 2 is connecting us the physical world around us. Thus it is the center of nourishment and vitality as we nourish ourselves through food and taste, through smell, through touch, through music and sound and through visuals and sight. By focusing on this center, you can bring nourishment to anywhere in the body. Sensuality is also connected to this chakra.Babies explore this chakra after their first month through the first year as they explore the world around them. Their eyes start to focus, the see things pick them up, put them in their mouth etc.

• Sound – vam

• Aroma – orange, geranium, and sandalwood

Chakra 2 has 6 petals, is orange in color and the sound is VAM. The meditative word is nourishment and the aroma is sandalwood, geranium and orange

Chakra 3 is the power center

• Manipura – lustrous gem

• Location – solar plexus

• Connects us to our sense of self, confidence, and unites our actions and intentions

Chakra 3 is manipura (“lustrous gem”) and the power center. It is located in the solar plexus in the soft part of the upper abdomen just below the breastbone. Now we move up from the physical world into the mental world and our sense of identity. What do you want to do with your life? What are you doing with your life? If these two things are separate, then you feel it in your gut. If they are aligned, the you become a strong person, with strong ideas and self confidence. College kids are focused on the 3rd chakra figuring out what they want to do with their lives. And just because you settle that once, does not mean you do not continually do this throughout your life. In toddlers, the “terrible twos” are a 3rd chakra focus as they learn the word “no” and start developing their sense of identity and their likes and dislikes.

• Sound – ram

• Aroma – lemon, lavender and balsam fir

Chakra 3 has 10 petals, is yellow in color, and the sound is RAM. The meditative word is intention and the aroma is lavender, lemon and balsam fir.

Chakra 4 is the heart center

• Anahata – the sound which issues without the striking of any 2 things together

• Location – center of the chest

• Center of love and compassion

Chakra 4 is anahata (“the sound which issues without the striking of any 2 things together”) and is the heart center. It is located in the center of the chest. Everything you stereotypically think of with the heart is connected with the heart center: love, compassion, sympathy, empathy, and laughter. Whereas the first 3 chakras are ego centric centers, this is the center or relationships and our connections to others.

• Sound – yam

• Aroma – mandarin, palmarosa, and sandalwood

Chakra 4 has 12 petals, is green in color, and the sound is YAM. The meditative word is harmony and the aroma is palmarosa (a grass in the same family as citronella), mandarin, and sandalwood.

Chakra 5 is the throat center

• Visuddha – free from impurities

• Location – the throat

• Relates to expression and and communication

Chakra 5 is visuddha (“free from impurities”) and is the throat center. It is located in the throat at the base of the neck. This is the center of communication, expression, and creativity. If you are ever feeling choked up and are not able to say the things you need to say, this is the 5th chakra. When you are an effective communicator, your creativity opens up. If you have a sore throat, it can be a good idea to think about what you need to say to someone as this could be an indication you are holding something back.

• Sound – ham

• Aroma – rosemary, grapefruit and ylang ylang

Chakra 5 has 16 petals, is light blue in color and the sound is HAM. The meditative word is expression and the aroma is rosemary, grapefruit and ylang ylang.

Chakra 6 is the Third Eye

• Ajna – communication from above

• Location – in between the eyebrows

• Center of imagination, intuition, and perception

Chakra 6 is ajna (“communication from above”) and is the 3rd eye center. It is located in between the eyebrows. It is the center of imagination, intuition and perception. Whenever you let go of things that hold you back and just imagine your future possibilities, this is the 6th chakra. If you get a phone call and you know intuitively who it is, that is the 3rd eye center. And also your perceptions or how well you pick up on non verbal cues. How you read body language, tone of voice, energy or any other type of subtle communication.

• Sound – sham

• Aroma – orange, geranium, and petitgrain

Chakra 6 has 2 petals (it looks like an eye), is dark blue in color and the sound is SHAM. The meditative word is insight and the aroma is orange, geranium, and petitgrain (from the leaves of the bitter orange tree neroli is from the flowers of the same tree)

Chakra 7 is the bliss center

• Sahasrara – thousand petaled

• Location – crown of the head

• Center of wisdom and enlightenment that connects to purpose and meaning in life

Chakra 7 is sahasrara (“thousand petaled”) and is the bliss center. It is located at the crown of the head. It is the center of wisdom and enlightenment and connects us to something greater than our selves. It is our connection to deeper meaning and our sense of purpose. You can think of it as the “master chakra” as it works with all of the other chakras to bring meaning. If the third chakra is what you want to do with your life, chakra 7 is why you want to do that. Chakra 7 is also connected with a term ananda in Sanskrit. Ananda means bliss and when you connect to this center, you can feel an intense sense of joy or bliss about life. This is different that the joy you feel from kids or friends or situations in life. It is more about life itself.

• Sound – om

• Aroma – frankincense, elemi, and angelica

Charka 7 has a thousand petals (though the aveda creative team likes cleaner looking images. There are 20 petals here but 20 X50 is 1000 so you multiply the 50 petals by 20 to get 1000 so 20 petals can work for this image), is violet in color and the sound is OM. OM is the universal mantra sound so it is connected with the universal or “master” chakra. The meditative word is wisdom and the aroma is frankincense, angelica (an herb that is in the same family as parsley) and elemi ( a resin from a tree that grows in Indonesia)

The Chakra meditation can be downloaded at aveda.com

Lead the group through the chakra mediation. Have them choose their favorite chakra. This meditation can be downloaded from Aveda.com. Go to aveda.com, click on purefume, look for the link “learn more about chakras here. When the window opens click on the wellness tab and the chakra meditation.

• “The chakra balancing meditation is a simple practice that can be done from 5 minutes to 30 minutes to decrease your stress, deepen your breathing, and center your mind.

• During the practice visualize a spinning wheel of colored energy at the location of each chakra (right brain visual) while silently repeating the meditative word of each chakra (left brain language). “

• Whatever the chakra words mean to you, imagine that feeling growing stronger during the practice.

• For example, the word for chakra 1 is grounding. As you repeat the word grounding, feel yourself becoming more grounded with each moment.

• Spray your chosen Chakra Balancing Body Mist around your body

• Sit comfortably with the spine erect or lie down on the floor.

• Close your eyes and focus on deep diaphragmatic breaths so that as you inhale your abdomen expands and as you exhale your abdomen contracts.

• For each chakra, visualize a spinning wheel of colored energy at the location of each chakra while silently repeating the word of each chakra.

• The 1st chakra is located at the base of the spine. The word for the 1st or root chakra is grounding. The color is red. Grounding.

• The 2nd chakra is located just below the navel. The word for the 2nd or pleasure chakra is nourishment. The color is orange. Nourishment.

• The 3rd chakra is located in the solar plexus.. The word for the 3rd or power chakra is intention. The color is yellow. Intention.

• The 4th chakra is located in the center of the chest. The word for the 4th or heart chakra is harmony. The color is green. Harmony.

• The 5th chakra is located at the base of the neck. The word for the 5thor or throat chakra is expression. The color is light blue. Expression.

• The 6th chakra is located in between the eyebrows. The word for the 6th or third eye chakra is insight. The color is dark blue. Insight.

• The 7th chakra is located at the crown of the head. The word for the 7th or bliss chakra is wisdom. The color is violet. Wisdom.

• As you continue to focus on deep diaphragmatic breaths, you can also visualize the ascending and descending flows of energy through the chakra. As you inhale, visualize energy entering into the crown and moving its way down the spine to the tailbone, and as you exhale, visualize the energy moving from the 1st chakra up the spine and out the crown of the head at the 7th chakra.

• Continue to focus on taking deep breaths, but stop focusing on the chakras and just sit easily for a few moments.

• Wiggle your fingers and wiggle your toes and slowly open your eyes.

• Create another script so that you may introduce Aveda Functional aromas to your guests.

Have the group brainstorm ways in which they can share the information on functional blends to their guests. They can script a conversation on page 52. Have each participant write a script for either a particular product or the general concept of Aveda functional aroma blends

Singular Notes:

Aveda Singular Notes

• Singular Notes are single essential oils in a coconut oil base

• They are retail products that are safe for direct application to the skin

Aveda’s singular notes are single essential oils in a carrier base of light coconut oil (caprilyic capric triglercyride). Because they are diluted essential oils, they are safe for retail use. These are great products for those guests who want to explore the use of essential oils.

What are some ways you can use singular notes at home?

Activity: Have the participants group up at their table and brainstorm ways in which to use the singular notes at home. Each group should share 3 suggestions.

• Singular Notes can be used professionally for skin and body conditions • 1-2 drops can be added to a masque or moisturizer

Professional blending: Singular notes can also be blended in professional blends for use in the spa

• 1-2 drops of a single oil can be blended with a masque or moisturizer and used during a facial.

Blends can be created by adding up to 40 drops to an applicator bottle with:

• Professional Massage Oil • Hydrating Formula • All Sensitive Composition

• For blends, up to 40 drops of 3 oils can blended in a 2 oz applicator bottle with o Professional massage oil o Hydrating Formula o All Sensitive Composition • To create a blend that smells like an equal blend of oils, simply add an equal number of drops to the blend (i.e. rose absolute 20 drops, sandalwood 20 drops) • To create a blend with one aroma more dominating than the other simply add more of one aroma than another based on percentages) (i.e. if you want and rose and sandalwood blend where sandalwood dominates use sandalwood 25 drops and rose absolute 15 drops or some other proportion) • Always blend the Singular Notes together before adding to the base product • If you mix the oils individually into the base, then your final product will smell like different oils at different times, but not smell like a blend. • Blend the Singular Notes into a 2 oz. applicator bottle, shake well, and then add the base.

Learning about essential oils takes time. Most books on aromatherapy are better as references rather than reading the entire book all the way through. On page 56 are some suggested books. These are great to keep in the team room of the spa and each week, you can pick a different oil, read about it and use it that week. After time, your knowledge continues to grow

Create your own functional blend:

• Choose 2-3 Singular Notes • Add up to 40- drops of the chosen oils into an applicator bottle • Add the base

Have each participant create their own functional blend:

Directions: 1. Pick a function for your blend: It could be to relieve sore muscles, for dry skin, for acne, elemental nature blend etc. 2. Research the singular notes on pages 56-62. 3. Pick 1-3 oils that will either serve that function or enhance the purefume aspect of your blend 4. Blend up to 40 drops of the singular notes in an applicator bottle. Write down the blend in your workbook as you create it. It is best to blend less than 40 drops at first so you can smell the blend during the process to see if you like it. That way if you do not like it, you can add more drops to change the blend 5. Add your chosen base to the applicator and shake well

Walk around the room and give advice and suggestions for blending.

Have the participants create a 2nd blend.

As participants share their blends or as they are creating blends, you can share information on the essential oils from the power point.

Bergamot is good for anxiousness and can be used to relieve tension

Bergamot Oil Botanical Latin Name: Citrus bergamia:

Extraction – expression

Plant Plant – fruit peel

Aromatic Qualities: sweet fruity aroma with citrus undertones

Elemental Nature – balances Water/ Earth, Infinity /Air

Skin Condition – good for oily and blemished conditions as well as acne prone skin.

Traditional and well-being uses – Bergamot is uplifting and relaxing and works as a great deodorant and is useful for anxious clients. Bergamot has been used as an insect repellent and is thought to have anti-depressant properties and has been used for loss of appetite. Bergamot has also been used to balance mental and psychological states and to relieve tension.

Cinnamon Bark in clove is a warming oil that is good to soothe sore muscles

Cinnamon Bark in Clove Botanical Latin Name: Cinnamomum zeylanicum:

Extraction: steam distillation

Plant Part: bark Aromatic Qualities: spicy warm aroma

Elemental Nature – Balances Infinity / Air, Water/ Earth

Skin condition – good for normal to dry conditions.

Traditional and well being uses – Cinnamon is spicy and stimulating and it is an excellent warming oil. It has been used in the past for muscle soreness by mixing it in massage oils.

Eucalyptus is a well known decongestant for colds and is good for muscular stress

Eucalyptus oil Botanical Latin Name: Eucalyptus globules

Extraction: distillation

Plant Part – Leaves and stems

Aromatic Qualities: powerful camphoraceous note

Elemental Nature – balances Water / Earth

Skin condition – good for oily skin prone to acne and blemishes.

Traditional and well being uses – Eucalyptus is refreshing and stimulating and has been used as a deodorant and insect repellent. Eucalyptus has been widely used as a decongestant inhalant for colds. It has also been used to relieve local pain and discomfort caused by muscular stress and rheumatism. Eucalyptus has been used as a germicide and antiseptic and is a common flavoring for cough/cold products.

Lavender is the most versatile of all of the essential oils

“When in doubt, use Lavender”

Lavender essential oil

Botanical Latin name: Lavandula angustifolia .

Extraction: distilled

Plant Part: flowering tops

Aromatic Qualities: floral, sweet, slightly herbaceous

Elemental Nature – balances Infinity / Air

Skin condition – Good for all skin conditions. It helps balance the production of sebum and is considered a rejuvenating agent on the skin. It also has deep cleansing and balancing qualities that are beneficial for blemished skin.

Traditional and well being uses – Lavender is the most versatile of all essential oils. It has been used as a treatment for colds and flu through steam inhalation and to relieve headaches by massaging into the temples. Lavender was used in ancient times during massage to help soothe muscular conditions such as muscle stress, tension, rheumatism, sciatica, and arthritis. It is considered an insect repellent and is soothing to insect bites and stings, as well as sunburn and minor scratches. On emotional and psychological levels, Lavender was used to calm and balance fluctuating moods and help anxiety. It is usually described as balancing, calming, and soothing.

Patchouli is excellent for dry skin and is a calming aroma that is often associated with the 1960’s

Patchouli essential oil

Botanical Latin name: Pogostemon cablin

Extraction: steam distillation

Plant Part: leaves

Aromatic Qualities: earthy, musty, herbaceous, balsamic with wood undertones.

Elemental Nature – balances Infinty -Air

Skin condition – good for dry skin conditions. Especially useful with chapped skin and dandruff conditions.

Traditional and well-being uses – Patchouli is calming and relaxing was historically used in skin care to promote the formation of scar tissue. Emotionally, it was used in small doses to stimulate and in larger doses, to sedate. It was considered a strong, neural stimulant. In folk medicine, it was considered an effective treatment for edema, obesity, and water retention.

Peppermint is a Stimulating and cooling oil that is good for sore muscles and sunburn.

Peppermint oil: Botanical Latin Name: Mentha piperita Extraction – distillation

Plant Part: fresh partially dried flowering herb

Aromatic Qualities: strong, minty-herbaceous aroma with balsamic undertones

Elemental Nature – Balances Fire, Water /Earth,

Skin condition – good for normal to oily skin conditions. It can be used in facial steams to cleanse and decongest the skin and is especially beneficial for acne-prone conditions.

Traditional and well being uses – Peppermint is stimulating and a decongestant. It was known in ancient times as a soothing remedy for digestive problems, with beneficial action on the liver, stomach, and intestines. It primary action was antispasmodic and has been used for hundreds on years to alleviate the symptoms of colds and flu. It has also been used (diluted) to massage the abdomen to help relieve digestive upsets.

Rose Absolute has been shown to increase surface skin temperature and surface skin circulation.

Rose absolute Botanical Latin name: Rosa damascena

Extraction: solvent extraction

Plant Part: flowers

Aromatic Qualities: deeply floral with woody, sweet, and honey undertones

Elemental Nature – balances Infinity /Air, Fire

Skin Condition – Especially beneficial for dry, sensitive, and maturing skin. Rose has been used in the past to diminish redness caused by distended capillaries, although application was over an extended period of time.

Traditional and well being uses – Rose absolute is relaxing and sedating and has been shown scientifically to increase surface skin temperature and superficial blood volume (vasodilation). Rose absolute has been used in the past as a gentle antidepressant and aphrodisiac.

Australian Sandalwood is calming oil and has been used in rituals by aboriginal tribes

Australian Sandalwood oil: Botanical Latin name: Santalum spicatum.

Extraction: steam distillation

Plant Part: heartwood

Aromatic Qualities: earthy, woody, sweet, balsamic, powdery finish

Elemental Nature – Balances Infinity / Air, Fire

Skin Condition – Beneficial for many skins types but in particular sensitive and dry skin. It can also be used for oily blemished skin for its deep cleansing properties.

Traditional and well being uses – Sandalwood is relaxing and sedating and has been used by some cultures in the past as an anti-depressant. It was also used as a powerful urinary anti-septic, treating infections and disorders of the urinary tract in addition to being used for chronic bronchitis.Sandalwood is a soothing after shave.

Tangerine is a citrus oil that is stimulating and energizing

Tangerine oil Botanical Latin Name Citrus tangerina

Extraction: expression

Plant Part: – fruit peel

Aromatic Qualities: sweet, citrus aroma with fruity undertones

Elemental Nature – balances Water / Earth, Infinity / Air

Skin Condition – good for normal to oily skin conditions.

Traditional and well being uses – Tangerine is uplifting, energizing, and awakening.

Tea Tree has been used to treat burns and wounds and is active against fungi, bacteria, and viruses

Tea Tree Oil: Botanical Latin Name: melaleuca alternifolia:

Extraction – distillation

Plant Part – leaves and stems

Aromatic Qualities: warm, spicy strongly terpenic aroma reminiscent of cardamom and nutmeg

Elemental Nature – balances Water / Earth

Skin Condition – excellent for oily, blemished and acne conditions. Traditional and well being uses – Tea Tree is a stimulating oil and is active against all 3 categories of infectious organisms: bacteria, fungi, and viruses. In the Far East, it was used for colds, cold sores, acne, fungal infections, sinus problems, and as an anaesthetic and deodorant. The aboriginal people of Australia have used Tea Tee to treat wounds and burns. Tea Tree has also been used over the years to treat boils, skin infections, and sore throats.

Vanilla absolute is a calming aroma and is considered an aphrodisiac

Vanilla Absolute Botanical Latin Name: Vanilla planifolia

Extraction – solvent extraction

Plant Part – cured, dried beans

Aromatic Qualities: rich, sweet, balsamic aroma

Elemental Nature – balances Infinity / Air

Skin condition – Good for all skin types but in particular normal to dry skin.

Traditional and well being uses – Vanilla is calming, grounding, and balancing and has mostly been used as ingredient in perfumes. It is considered an aphrodisiac and was used by the Aztecs and Toltecs to strengthen the heart, eliminate tiredness, and protect against fever.

Ylang Ylang is the poor man’s jasmine and helps to balance the body’s sebum action

Ylang Ylang oil Botanical Latin Name: Cananga odorata

Extraction: distillation

Plant Part - flowers

Aromatic Qualities: Intensely sweet, floral aroma with balsamic and woody undertones.

Elemental Nature – balances Fire

Skin condition – Can be used for sensitive, dry and oily skin. It is thought to be effective in balancing sebum action.

Traditional and well being uses – Ylang Ylang is relaxing and has been used as a sedative and an aphrodisiac. It is thought to help one achieve self-confidence and has been used as a hair tonic. As it contains some of the same plant chemicals as jasmine, it is known as the “poor man’s jasmine”

The Aromaology II workshops focuses on the use of Aveda’s Pure Essences .

Completion of class: Summarize the class. Mention and show up the Pure Essences kit and that the 2nd level of Aromaology education focuses on the Pure Essences which are 100% undiluted essential oils that are professional only products. This class is best for spa therapists whether massage therapists, estheticians, nail technicians, though hairdressers are also welcome to attend. Page 63 in the book

Write down 2 things that you learned today that you will use in your work with Aveda .

Have the participants write down 2 “ahas” they had today. How will they use this new information in their work with Aveda?

Wrap up with any final questions