Ski Touring in the Southern Andes 23
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22 Eagle Ski Club 2020 Ski Touring in the Southern Andes 23 mountains and their accessibility. From suggest going for spring snow condi- 20°S all the way to the area around tions in the last weeks of September or SKI TOURING IN Santiago (the Chilean capital) at about very early October. 35°S, the Andes rise to over 6000m, and are generally very dry and often As a generalisation the snowpack in the THE SOUTHERN without continuous snow cover. South Andes is pretty stable, especially in the of Santiago, in the temperate zone, the spring months. Cold nights and strong ANDES highest peaks are only 3000m to 4000m sun (and sometimes rain to the sum- high, and winters become increasingly, mits!) lead quickly to stable snow. I've John Biggar well, wintry! Summer snowlines vary seen avalanches much more often in from near 6000m in the north to 1000m the Alps or Scotland. Conditions vary The Andes or so in the extreme south. from season to season more than in the Alps; as in Scotland, the great years are As someone who does both skiing and The best ski-mountaineering season great, the lean years lean. boarding, I'll apologise in advance for is the spring, centred on September. using the term “skiing” for everything! Many areas are just too wintry in July General logistics and August, with poor snow conditions, The Andes are the world’s longest blocked access roads and lots of windy Here are some tips for planning a trip to mountain range, at over 7000km, and days. There are always rumours of the Andes; there are some more specific because they run north to south there great powder in August, particularly on details in the individual area paragraphs is a huge variety of climates and snow the drier, Argentine side of the moun- below. conditions down their length. Imagine tains, but for a first visit I'd definitely a mountain range 200km wide, running from southern Scotland, down through Europe and west Africa, all the way to Angola and you get an idea! This article focuses on the Southern Andes of Chile John Biggar load-carrying. and Argentina; this area is a bit more Photo: John Biggar homogenous in terms of skiing and this requires some very hefty carrying probably contains 90% of the good ski- of skis and boots. It's also tricky to pick ing on the continent. the best season. It is possible to ski in the northern The Andes of Chile and Argentina hemisphere countries of Colombia and Ecuador, but it is very limited. There is The Chile/Argentina border is one of plenty of skiing potential in the southern the world’s longest, and it is largely tropical countries (Peru and Bolivia), but defined by the Andes. Snow conditions only at extreme altitudes and on glaciers vary greatly as you travel southwards, with snow-lines around 4800 or 5000m; as does the type of terrain around the Preparing to ski Volcan Lonquimay. Photo: John Biggar 24 Ski Touring in the Southern Andes Ski Touring in the Southern Andes 25 Getting to the Andes is pretty straight- have to camp. the Chilean side there are fewer access forward, with daily flights from most roads but the Maipo valley above Baños European capitals to both Buenos Aires Maps at 1:50 000 (Chile) or 1:100 000 Morales can be good; the roadhead and Santiago (the Argentine and Chil- (Argentina) are generally good topo- is only a two- or three-hour drive from ean capitals). No visas are necessary. graphically but very unreliable for man- Santiago. Several parties have made For many areas an onward domestic made features. However most sheets latitudinal ski traverses through the High flight will be necessary, as the distanc- are only available from the national IGM Andes; this is a major undertaking that es are huge. (Military Geographic Office) in the capi- needs very careful planning as this is tals … and anyway, every volcano looks remote terrain, and big river crossings Some of the peaks and potential skiing the same on a map: bullseye! A GPS may be necessary. areas are extremely remote, requiring to guarantee your return by the same many days to access; other peaks can route will often be more useful. Maule region be done as day trips. There are only a few small areas where public transport Finally, costs and money. Return flights In Chile just south of Santiago I've is a viable option for backcountry ski- out to the capitals are typically around skiing. They have all been skied, but only done a few peaks as day trips, ing. There are also only a few areas £600 to £700, with onward domestic snowlines are very high and snow such as the active volcanoes Chillan where more than one ski day can be flights being £100 to £300 return. Once conditions are always a huge gamble. (3212m) and Antuco (2965m). But on done from the same base. For these on the ground costs in Chile are gener- The best options are the NE glaciers reasons I'd recommend a rental vehicle ally high; many things actually cost on Monte Pissis (6793m), Mercedario to get the most out of your holiday; it more than they do in the UK. However, (6710m) or Majadita (6266m). will allow you to get to most roadheads, credit cards, banks and ATMs all work and also to drive between different ar- reliably. The Argentine economy is The High Andes eas. In some areas you'll need a 4x4, more of a roller-coaster; in some years but in many places a car with reason- Argentina can be cheap, especially if While the 6000m peaks are frequently ably good ground clearance will do. All you like steaks and wine, but in other stripped of snow by high winds, worth- the main roads are asphalted. years it can be as expensive as at while tours and ascents can be done on home. It is a good plan to bring lots of peaks in the 2500-4000m range. There You will always find a wide variety of US$ cash, as ATMs and card payments is one big resort, outside Santiago at good hotels and guesthouses. Many don't always work. For instance, recent Tres Valles; nearby Portillo is better- places also have what are called inflation has made the 100-peso note known, although quite small, but very cabañas; these are not always cheaper worth only £1.50 and ATMs have not quirky and great fun. The best season than hotel rooms but are great if there yet been upgraded to dispense larger is early spring, from August to October, is a group of you, as you can self-cater notes. when the snowline is 2000m-2500m. and fix your own early breakfasts. Out Good areas to try for mini-expeditions in the mountains there is only one The 6000m peaks and/or day trips on the Argentine side area, around Bariloche, with a reason- include the Vallecitos valley in the Cor- able provision of mountain huts; every- The 6000m peaks north of Santiago, don del Plata near Mendoza, the Atuel where else, if you want to (or need to) including the highest on the continent, valley above Sosneado and the Que- stay in the mountains overnight you'll Aconcagua (6959m), don't give good brada Matienzo by Puente del Inca. On 26 Ski Touring in the Southern Andes Ski Touring in the Southern Andes 27 the Argentine side I've had some great skiing begins through beautiful araucar- longer expeditions. One of my favorite ia (monkey-puzzle) and bamboo forest; ski trips was a 4-night camping ex- while the monkey-puzzle trees are great pedition to make the first ski descent for photos, the bamboo can be a bit of a of Domuyo (4709m) with a couple of struggle! clients in November 2006. The nearby peaks of Wayle (3296m) and Cuadruple The Chilean lakes Tres (3333m) and other summits in the Cordon del Viento can also be skied. Further south is the classic ski-moun- This area requires at least a mini-expe- taineering area of the Chilean Lakes dition of a few days, but camping in the District. There is enormous potential valleys in October can be very pleas- here, but in many places the dense, ant, with warm afternoons and long cool rain-forests prevent access to the sunny days. A bit further south there snow. The exceptions are where there are good day trips around the active are ski resorts: these are often on the volcano Copahue (3001m), and on wee slopes of active volcanoes, and ac- peaks near the road by the Paso Pino cess is maintained throughout winter. Hachado. In many of these areas the High clearance is usually a good plan at any time of year; a 4x4 and chains are sometimes necessary in July and Below the Brecha de la Cornisa on San Lorenzo. Photo: John Biggar August. This region is one of the best for “holiday” ski-mountaineering, with winter months can be windy and access city of San Carlos de Bariloche, the ascents of 2500-3000m volcanoes can often be difficult. The best season “chocolate capital of S America”. The taking just one long day from a hotel is September and early October. During mountains are very easy to access from or cabaña in a local town. In Chile Lon- this spell there is usually nice spring the ski resort of Cerro Catedral, itself quimay (2865m), Llaima (3125m), Sierra snow, with freezing conditions overnight just a short bus ride from town; this is Nevada (2554m), Villarrica (2847m), La- giving easy ascents, but then snow one of South America’s better piste- nin (3717m), Casablanca (1990m) and turning softly skiable for descents later skiing spots too.