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												  Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit.
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												  H. G Davis of West Virginia William Hay Wood Here Arke Fob Summer's Stayat FOR TUDAY Light T . T SUGAR 96 Ceatrifu. trades and fair weather. (ll irarfifliifriTf TU. 3.9375 Per Ton Last 24 hours' rainfall .04; 7 X $78.75. 55 Analysis 1 temperature, max. 83,min- - mmsSm 4-- Beets, 9s 8 Parity Imum, 70. Per Ton. T . t t t t ta VOL. II., NO. 80. 3 SUNDAY, Sw-on- a HONOLULU, HAWAII TERRITORY, JULY 10, 1904. TEN PAGES. 190S- - Honolula, Hwalt, at Matter, Under Act of Congress ot March 8. 1879. H. G DAVIS OF WEST VIRGINIA WILLIAM HAY WOOD HERE ARKE FOB SUMMER'S STAY -- ooooooooooooooookoooo-oo ooo Will Post Up On Late Parker Stands for Gold and Gives Hawaiian Developments. What He Says About Island Concerns at Convention Chance to Name Washington Garter's Many Friends. Another Man. William Haywood, representative at Tarker had been nominated by the I'liLSjir1 Washington of the Hawaiian Planters' Democrats, he said: Association and the Honolulu Chamber "I don't think tley have nominated their strongest man. In my opinion, Debate Follows is In-- of Commerce, arrived last evening from Exciting and Candidate Cleveland would have been passenger much the the national capital, a aboard stronger. WheVi I left Washington Is llil' t formed That Money Not an Issue Vice 1 the United States army transport Sher- prominent Democrats seemed to be of ':i!i7:iy man, accompanied by Mrs. Haywood a mind that Cleveland or Gray would Presidential Nominee An Aged Banker. and children. They were met at the be nominated. The conservative inter- ests in the great i w .
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												  Corset and Brassiere IndustryApproved Code No. 7 Regisiry No. 220-1-02 NATIONAL RECOVERY ADMINISTRATION CODE OF FAIR COMPETITION FOR 1'HE ! CORSET AND BRASSIERE INDUSTRY AS APPROVED ON AUGUST 14, 1933 BY PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT 1. Executive Order 2. Administrative Order 3. Report of Deputy Administrator 4. Code UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE WASHINGTON : 1933 For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D.C. • • - • - -- - Price 5 cents EXECUTIVE ORDER CODE OF F AIR COMPETITION, CORSET .AND BRASSIERE INDUSTRY An application having be~n duly made, pursuant to and in full compliance with the provisions of Title I of the National Industrial Recovery Act, approved June 16, 1933, for my approval of a Code of Fair Competition for the Corset and Brassiere Industry, and hearings having been held thereon and the Administrator having rendered his report containing a.n analysis of the said Code of Fair Competition together with his recommendations and findings with respect thereto, and the Administrator having found that the said Code of Fair Competition complies in all respects with the pertinent provisions of Title I of said Act and that the requirements of clauses (1) and (2) of subsection (a) of Section 3 of the said Act have been met: NO,V, THEREFORE, I , Franklin D. Roosevelt, President of the United States, pursuant to the authority vested in me by Title I of the National Industrial Recovery Act, approved June 16, 1933, and otherwise, do adopt and approve the report, recommendations and findings of the Administrator and do order that the said Code of Fair Competition be and it is hereby approved.
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												  1970S 1994 1901 1950S 1960S34069_CSB_050-051_Gossard 1/6/2007 17:22 Page 50 Gossard has been at the forefront of lingerie design and innovation since 1901, pioneering new styles and technology that have revolutionised underwear consistently through the decades. The brand has earned an exemplary reputation for quality, comfort and fit and now sells in over 30 countries worldwide. Focusing on fashion-led collections to suit the demands of today’s women, Gossard remains one of the most widely recognised and well-loved lingerie brands in the UK. Market according to figleaves.com customers. including the world-famous Wonderbra. The lingerie market consists of many brands More than 10,000 consumers voted and As women turned to burning their bras as and is highly competitive. Total lingerie sales in the Superboost satin range was considered a sign of liberation and freedom in the the UK are valued at £1.28 billion, an increase the bra that creates the most attractive 1970s, Gossard responded by developing of just under seven per cent in the last four cleavage – comfortably. its Glossies range of sheer, shimmering years. Volume sales have grown by eight per underwear, providing a very natural look cent during the same period, indicating a Product under tight fitting clothes. slight decline in retail prices. Bra sales Gossard’s products have evolved in line with Around the same time it was noted that represent more than half of the market value both fashion and social acceptance. The women’s figures were starting to change. (Source: TNS FashionTrak September 2006). 1960s saw the brand pioneer the pantie They were becoming taller and fuller in the girdle and bra slip in the UK – both thought bust and, as a result, the demand for larger Achievements to be very daring at the time.
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												  The War and FashionF a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book.
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												  Undergarments : Extension Circular 4-12-2University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Nebraska 4-H Clubs: Historical Materials and Publications 4-H Youth Development 1951 Undergarments : Extension Circular 4-12-2 Allegra Wilkens Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/a4hhistory Part of the Service Learning Commons Wilkens, Allegra, "Undergarments : Extension Circular 4-12-2" (1951). Nebraska 4-H Clubs: Historical Materials and Publications. 124. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/a4hhistory/124 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the 4-H Youth Development at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Nebraska 4-H Clubs: Historical Materials and Publications by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Jan. 1951 E.G. 4-12-2 o PREPARED FOR 4-H CLOTHrNG ClUB GIRLS EXTENSION SERVICE UNIVERSITY OF NEBRASKA COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AND U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE COOPERATING A W. V. LAMBERT, DIRECTOR C i ( Undergarments for the Well Dressed 4-H Girl Allegra Wilkens The choosing or designing of the undergarments that will make a suitable foundation for her costume is a challenge to any girl's good taste. She may have attractive under- wear if she is wise in the selection of materials and careful in making it or in choosing ready-made garments. It is not the amount of money that one spends so much as it is good judgment in the choice of styles, materials and trimmings. No matter how beautiful or appropriate a girl's outer garments may be, she is not well dressed unless she has used good judgment in making or selecting her under - wear.
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												  Descargar CatálogoQUIENES SOMOS? Somos una compañía Colombiana ubicada en la ciudad de Medellín. Dedicada a la fabricación y comercialización de prendas que ayudan a mejorar y resaltar las bondades de la figura humana, generando en mujeres y hombres comodidad, estilo, alivio y belleza con un alto impacto en el autoestima. Piel de Ángel es un empresa altamente comprometida con la responsabilidad social que vela por el beneficio y desarrollo de todo nuestro publico. Nuestras prendas están elaboradas con materias primas cuidadosamente seleccionadas que cumplen con altos estándares de calidad, que garantizan una compresión gradual de media y alta siguiendo los parámetros para los procedimientos quirúrgicos. Nuestra experiencia en diseño y fabricación nos ha permitido innovar y ofrecer a todos nuestros clientes nacionales e internacionales una faja especialmente elaborada a su medida. We are a Colombian company located in the city of Medellín. Dedicated to the manufacture and marketing of garments that help improve and highlight stand out the benefits of the human figure, generating in women and men comfort, style, relief and beauty with a high impact on self-esteem. PIEL DE ANGEL is a company highly committed to social responsibility that ensures the benefit and development of our entire public. Our garments are made with carefully selected raw materials that meet high quality standards, which guarantee a medium and high gradual compression following the parameters for surgical procedures. Our experience in design and manufacturing has allowed us to innovate and offer all our national and international clients a specially tailor made girdle. 2 3 NIVELES DE COMPRESIÓN COMPRESIÓN MEDIA Estas prendas ayudan a moldear y ejercen una compresión pareja permitiendo moverte de una manera más libre, brindan descanso y alivio a las molestias en la piel que aparecen luego de realizar un procedimiento quirúrgico.
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												  A Study on the Characteristics of 20Th Century Womenfs UndergarmentsIJCC, Vol. 6, No. 2, 83 〜92(2003) 15 A Study on the Characteristics of 20th Century Womenfs Undergarments Seo-Hee Lee and Hyeon-Ju Kim* Assistant Professor, Dept, of Fashion and Beauty, Konyang University Instructor, Dept, of Clothing Science, Seoul Women's University* (Received June 23, 2003) Abstract This study aims to classify -women's undergarments of the 20th century by periods, and to examine their characteristics. The research method consists of a literature study based on relevant documentary records and a demonstrative analysis of graphic data collected from each reference. The features of women's under garments obtained from the study are as fallows: First, silhouette changes of outer garments appear to influence the type and style of a new undergarment. Second, technological development results in a new type of undergarments. Third, the development of new material appears to influence functions and design of undergarments. Fourth, social changes including the development of sports affects the changes of undergarments. As seen so far, the form or type, material, and color in undergarment diversify when fashion changes become varied and rapid. As shown before the 20th century, the importance of undergarment's type, farm, and function gradually reduces according to the changes of -women's mind due to their social participation, although it still plays a role in correcting the shape of an outer garment based on the outer silhouette. The design also clearly shows the extremes of maximization and minimization of decoration. Key words : undergarment, modern fashion, lingerie, infra apparel the beginning of the 20th century, corsets and I.
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												  M&S: LingerieM&S: Lingerie Providing secret support since 1926 1926 We introduced our first bras, designed to suit the ideal of a flatter chest and boyish figure, fashions that were all the rage in the 1920s. As well as bras we sold garters, directoire knickers, sanitary belts and free-run bodices. White cotton and rayon bra, 1920s Ref: T81/18 1932 We sold corsetry and uplifting brassieres advertised with the slogan ‘A perfect figure guaranteed’. These new styles suited the changing trend for ‘lift and separation’. Advert from ‘The Marks and Spencer Magazine’, Christmas 1932 1941-1945 All clothing during the war had to adhere to Utility standards, due to the shortages posed by wartime conditions. Clothing had to meet the Government’s regulations, and we developed a Utility lingerie range that was not only functional but attractive. Satin bra with Utility label, c1943 Ref: T1941/5 1951-1953 We developed our bra sizes to include three cup sizes; small, medium and large. This was inspired by American lingerie and allowed the bras to fit a greater proportion of women. In 1953 we sold 125,000 brassieres per week. Advert showing range of bra sizes, St Michael News, 1953 St Michael News, Jan 1958 1953 We started selling bras aimed at teenagers and younger women. Light, simple styles such as the brief brassiere were designed for the more ‘youthful figure’. In 1953 we sold 25% of the nation’s total sales in knitted vests. Women’s knitted vests were only available in two sizes; medium and large. St Michael News, Sep 1958 1955 We sold elastic high line girdles, which provided more support, and ensured ‘spare tyres, [and] ungainly bulges are eliminated’.
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												  PHILADELPHIA WOMEN and the PUBLIC SPHERE, 1760S-1840S“THE YOUNG WOMEN HERE ENJOY A LIBERTY”: PHILADELPHIA WOMEN AND THE PUBLIC SPHERE, 1760s-1840s By KATHARINE DIANE LEE A dissertation submitted to the Graduate School-New Brunswick Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey In partial fulfillment of the requirements For the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Graduate Program in History Written under the direction of Nancy Hewitt and Paul G. E. Clemens And approved by _______________________________________ _______________________________________ _______________________________________ _______________________________________ New Brunswick, New Jersey May 2016 ABSTRACT OF THE DISSERTATION “The Young women here enjoy a liberty”: Philadelphia Women and the Public Sphere, 1760s-1840s by KATHARINE DIANE LEE Dissertation Director: Nancy Hewitt This dissertation examines women’s access to and participation in the community life of Philadelphia in the decades surrounding the American Revolution. It argues against the application of separate spheres to late-colonial and early national Philadelphia and proposes that women were heavily integrated into nearly all aspects of the city’s public life. Women from diverse backgrounds were actively involved in commerce, politics, protest, intellectual and legal debates, social institutions, wartime developments, educational advancements, and benevolent causes. They saw themselves and were viewed by their peers as valuable members of a vibrant and complex city life. If we put aside assumptions about women’s limited relationship to the public sphere, we find a society in which women took advantage of a multitude of opportunities for participation and self-expression. This project also examines the disparity between the image of the ideal housewife and the lived experience of the majority of female Philadelphians. Idealized descriptions of Revolutionary women present a far more sheltered range of options than those taken advantage of by most actual women.
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												  Women and the American Revolution (2020)The Varieties of Political Experience: Women and the American Revolution Presented to the faculty of Lycoming College in partial fulfillment of the requirements for a Joanne and Arthur Haberberger Fellowship By Erin Emerick Lycoming College May 3, 2020 Approved by: ____________________________________________Dr. Christopher Pearl ____________________________________________Dr. Laura Seddelmeyer ____________________________________________Dr. Ryan Adams ____________________________________________Dr. Jessica Munson Introduction Early in the spring of 1776, as tension between the American colonies and the British government was at its peak, there was a disturbance in the town of Stratford, Connecticut. One of the women had just given birth to a son and she had decided to name him Thomas Gage after the former commander of the British army. As news of the birth spread through the town, some of the patriotic townswomen became upset, and quickly decided to band together to punish the Loyalist mother.1 Nearly 200 women “formed themselves into a battalion, and with solemn ceremony appointed a general and other officers to lead them on.” After forming their ranks, the women “then marched in the greatest good order to pay their compliments to Thomas Gage, and present his mother with a suit of tar and feathers.”2 Only the pleas of the woman’s husband prevented this female militia from accomplishing their task.3 These New England women chose to take violent action, expressing their political identities in a public way. However, this overt political expression was not the only way that women expressed their political ideas during the American Revolution. During the war for independence, patriot women expressed themselves politically on the homefront, as well as on the battlefield, in a variety of ways.
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												  Consumption and Citizenship in the Urban Northeast, 1800-1865 Joanna Cohen University of PennsylvaniaUniversity of Pennsylvania ScholarlyCommons Publicly Accessible Penn Dissertations 2009 "Millions of Luxurious Citizens": Consumption and Citizenship in the Urban Northeast, 1800-1865 Joanna Cohen University of Pennsylvania Follow this and additional works at: http://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations Part of the Cultural History Commons, Economic History Commons, Political Economy Commons, and the United States History Commons Recommended Citation Cohen, Joanna, ""Millions of Luxurious Citizens": Consumption and Citizenship in the Urban Northeast, 1800-1865" (2009). Publicly Accessible Penn Dissertations. Paper 1537. Related publications based on this dissertation: Luxurious Citizens: Consumption and Civic Belonging in Nineteenth Century America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, forthcoming). “Promoting Pleasure as Political Economy: The rT ansformation of American Advertising, 1800 to 1850.” The inW terthur Portfolio(link is external), (forthcoming) This paper is posted at ScholarlyCommons. http://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations/1537 For more information, please contact [email protected]. "Millions of Luxurious Citizens": Consumption and Citizenship in the Urban Northeast, 1800-1865 Abstract In the century following the American Revolution, culturally powerful middle-class citizens in the northeast slowly abandoned a vision of civic non-consumption that rested on the strength of imperial boycotts nda instead converted their consumption of luxury goods and products into a civic act. This dissertation reveals