A Walking Tour

EN A WARM WELCOME TO CONSTANCE...

... the beating heart of the Lake Constance four-country region. With its historical centre, the Council of Constance and its fine, small museums, Constance has a uniquely tangible history, a vibrant present and a wealth of ideas and plans for the future. Art, culture, pleasure and water characterise the largest city on Lake Constance – the perfect place to walk, cycle, shop or just linger a while. Exciting cultural tours guide locals and visitors alike from significant locations in the history of Constance to modern locations on the banks of Lake Constance and the Rhine. Simply immerse yourself in the city, take an inspiring journey through the centuries on this unique tour and soak up the abundant sensory impulses.

KEY

Council sites Barrier-free access

3 A WALKING GUIDE

1 TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Starting point for the walking tour. You can also get all sorts of useful information about Constance here.

2 FORMER HOSPITAL OF THE HOLY SPIRIT AND HOTEL ZUR KRONE In 1225, as an expression of their growing independence, the people of Constance founded a municipal hospital (Bürgerspital Zum Heiligen Geist), which consisted of several buildings. It served as a hospital until 1812 and 4 | HOTEL “ZUM GOLDENEN ADLER” is today a modern residential and business complex. In the post office’s main counter hall there are medieval frescoes from the original building which are well worth seeing. The former Hotel Zur Krone and the former hospital building next door are now part of the Tertianum retirement home.

3 IMPERIAL POST OFFICE BUILDING Prestigious commercial building dating from the time of the Kaisers. Built between 1888 and 1891 in the neo-Re- naissance style. Today, it is an office of the Sparkasse Bodensee savings bank.

4 HOTEL ZUM GOLDENEN ADLER AND MARKTSTÄTTE SQUARE The Hôtel de l’Aigle once occupied today’s bank and office building. As the inscriptions on its neo-classical facade reveal, it was not only Kaisers and princes who frequented the hotel but also the great German poet Johann Wolf-

5 5 | IMPERIAL FOUNTAIN gang von Goethe. Prince Louis Napoleon Bonaparte, later wife Barbara redesigned the monument and concealed Emperor Napoleon III, was also a regular guest. At the within it a number of allusions to Constance’s past. A apex of the building’s imposing oriel is a golden Napo- three-headed peacock, for example, symbolises the divi- leonic eagle looking out towards the south-west. A gift sion in the western church and alludes to the historical from Napoleon III, it represents the connection between background of the Council of Constance (1414 – 1418) Constance and Schloss Arenenberg in Thurgau. From when three Popes claimed the right to the Holy See. To here, the tourist hub of Constance – Marktstätte square – the south-west of the fountain is Haus Zum Wolf, built extends towards the west. Built on land reclaimed from in 1774, which has a rococo facade unlike any other in the lake, it was originally called Markt am Gestade (mar- Constance. ket on the waterfront). Haus Zum Korb, on the northern side of the square, is a late medieval house with Gothic windows. 6 HAUS “ZUM ROSGARTEN” (ROSGARTEN MUSEUM) Housed in a medieval guildhall (for butchers, bakers, 5 IMPERIAL FOUNTAIN AND HAUS “ZUM WOLF” apothecaries, etc.), the Rosgarten Museum contains the The imperial fountain (Kaiserbrunnen) was created by most important collection of exhibits from the artistic sculptor Hans Baur in 1897 but lost its original decora- and cultural history of the Lake Constance region. Along- tive figures in the 1940s. Professor Gernot Rumpf and his side prehistoric and early historical items are valuable artworks from the Middle Ages as well as testimonies of everyday life right up to the 20th century. The history of Constance as a former Imperial and episcopal city is a particular focal point. The most precious exhibit is almost certainly a manuscript from the Richental Chronicle dating from around 1465. Written by local Constance man Ulrich Richental (see no. 30), it documents key events at the time of the Council of Constance from 1414 to 1418. Pretty courtyard with café.

7 TRINITY CHURCH AND FORMER JEWISH SYNAGOGUE Dating from the late Gothic era, the present-day parish church (Dreifaltigkeitskirche) incorporates the last visible remains of the Augustinian abbey founded at the centre of Constance in 1268, which was dissolved in 1802 and pulled down a few years later. The furnishings (originally from St. Michael’s Church in the Swiss town of Zug) are particularly worthy of attention, as are the frescoes which were painted in 1417/18 for King Sigismund, who resided at the church during the Council of Constance. The abbey

7 6 | ROSGARTENCAFÉ was the meeting place for the Spanish nation in 1417/18 age, as well as a stopping place for pilgrims en route during the Council of Constance and provided accommo- for Rome, Jerusalem or Santiago de Compostela. To the dation for a number of cardinals. A little way down from south, at the junction with Otto- Raggenbass-Strasse, is the church to the south-east is the former site of the the Sweden Stone (Schwedenstein). During the Thirty ‘great and holy synagogue of the Israelite community of Years’ War, the attacking Swedish forces were successful- Constance’, which was criminally destroyed by the SS on ly beaten back here. The Schwedenschanze opposite is 10 November 1938. In 1966 the plot of land where the where Johann Georg Elser, the brave would-be assassin ruins stood was built over in a no-nonsense way by a Jew- of Hitler, fell into the clutches of the Nazis in 1939 whilst ish businessman. The new high-rise building now houses attempting to cross the border. a small prayer room (accessible upon request) and the Dr Erich Bloch and Lebenheim Library (JUDAICA) of the Jewish community in Constance. The new synagogue of 10 FORMER CHURCH OF ST. JODOCUS AND the Jewish community in Constance, which was officially ITS PILGRIMS’ HOSPICE consecrated on 10th November 2019, is located at Sigis- The late Gothic parish and hospice Church of St. Jodocus mundstraße 8. (today a residential and commercial building) is clearly visible at the intersection of Falkengasse, Emmishofer- strasse and Kreuzlingerstrasse. Together with the former 8 BODANPLATZ UND BODANSTRASSE “Josenherberge” hostel, which lies behind it to the north, Former cattle market and moat in suburbs of Kreuzlingen this collection of suburban buildings once formed a (Switzerland) and Stadelhofen (Germany). These were hospital complex. Not only did this accommodate passing originally private gardens and green spaces in the city travellers, it also took on some of the city’s welfare work centre, and were not cobbled until the 16th/17th cen- among the poor. turies. This was also a place where animals were sold for slaughter. A reminder of this tradition is the central fountain with the ‘butcher’, symbolising the guild of master 11 NORTHERN KREUZLINGERSTRASSE AND butchers whose premises were at Haus Zum Rosgarten HAUS “ZUR FELSENBURG” (see no. 6). Whereas, until the 16th century, the south-eastern half of Kreuzlingerstrasse provided mainly for pilgrims (building names such as Zum eng[e]lischen Gruss [The 9 HÜETLINSTRASSE, HAUS “ZUM PILGERSTAB” Angelic Greeting] are evidence of this), the northern part AND THE SWEDEN STONE towards the Schnetztor gate was Constance’s tanners’ The first reference to the former Rossgasse dates back quarter. Even today, the steeply pitched roof trusses on to 1312. It was once home to one of Constance’s many the houses on both sides of the street bear witness to public baths and still provides fascinating insights into life their original use as craftsmen’s premises. A fine example in a suburb. Hüetlinstrasse is named after Karl Hüetlin, of this characteristic architecture is the Felsenburg, with the mayor of Constance between 1832 and 1849 and a its late medieval facade. The building opposite (no. 8) has key player in the 1848 revolution. The building on the an equally striking oriel, supported by a man carrying a south-west corner adjoining Kreuzlingerstrasse bears the tanners’ knife. name Zum Pilgerstab (The Pilgrim’s Staff). This alludes to Constance’s importance as a medieval centre of pilgrim-

9 12 KREUZLINGER TOR, EMMISHOFER TOR 13 HUS STONE When in 1414 Pope John XXIII made a grand entrance The 350-hundredweight Hus Stone lies at the place through Kreuzlinger Tor (which had not yet been com- where Bohemian reformers Jan Hus and Jerome of pleted), he could not have guessed that he would be Prague were burned at the stake for heresy (6 July 1415 leaving the town in disgrace a few months later through and 30 May 1416 respectively). After nearly 30 years of the same gate. As he became aware of the tides turning controversy and discussion, this memorial stone of dark against him during the Council of Constance (1414 – limestone, which was financed by donations, was officially 1418), he fled, disguised as a squire under the protection inaugurated on 6 October 1862. It represents “enlighten of Duke Frederick of Austria, through Kreuzlinger Tor ment, impartiality and mutual respect for differing or possibly Emmishofer Tor towards Steckborn, Schaff- religious views” ( Joseph Fickler, April 1862). The memo- hausen and Freiburg on 20/21 March 1415. A short time rial stone stood prominently in an almost undeveloped later, he was apprehended in Breisach, deposed and location until, after the Second World War, new buildings imprisoned as Baldassare Cossa for a short period in the were erected around it. The site of the Hus Stone is the tower at Gottlieben Castle. location for the annual memorial event for Jan Hus and Jerome of Prague on 6 July.

14 SCULPTURE: JAN HUS – PATH OF REDEMPTION A monument to the reformers Jan Hus and Jerome of Prague was unveiled in 2015 to mark the 600th anniversary of Jan Hus’ death (6 July 1415). The 2.80 m sand- stone sculpture represents a goblet with flames flickering out, and people seemingly arising from its centre. The sculpture belongs to a series of artworks in a number of Czech cities and in Constance that pay testimony to the two church reformers, who were executed at the Council of Constance.

15 “ TRUTH” – JAN HUS MONUMENT “ WAHRHEIT” (truth) – This word appears when sunlight falls on the façades of the former Franciscan monastery. The artwork was unveiled during a 2016 ceremony in Constance marking the 600th anniversary of the Bohemi- an church reformer’s execution at the stake. The artwork consists of a tableau mounted on the façade with milled letters that project the word “WAHRHEIT” (truth) on to the wall during sunshine. The Czech counterpart “ZA PRAVDU” is located at the Bethlehem Chapel in Prague.

11 13 | HUS STONE 16 SCHNETZTOR houses a museum. Jan Hus in fact resided a few houses Schnetztor gate and its outer ward were built in the 14th further along at Haus Zur roten Kanne (now Hussenstrasse century to mark the southern boundary of the town. Along 22), the home of local widow Fida Pfister(see no. 19). with the Powder Tower and Rhine Gate (see no. 42), it is the only defensive structure from medieval Constance that is still in existence. On Löwenplatz square, south of the tower, 18 FORMER ST. PAUL’S CHURCH AND HAUS you can clearly make out the foundations of the wall in the “ZUM WEISSEN PFAU” cobbles. A little further down, it is even possible to take a Under Bishop Conrad (934 – 975) and Bishop Gebhard ‘walk through the wall’ to Neugasse. (979 – 995), who were both later canonised, Constance established itself as a Roma secunda or ‘second Rome’. Right up until the 19th century, visitors to the town were 17 HUS MUSEUM able to admire replicas of Rome’s five great basilicas, This collection of buildings dating from the 15th and 16th starting with the church of ‘St. Paul outside the walls’ (see centuries were thought for a long time to have been the no. 22, St. Lawrence; no. 31, St. Mary’s Minster; no. 37, St. lodgings of Bohemian reformer Jan Hus, who, together John’s and no. 43, Petershausen Monastery). Inside today’s with his brother in faith Jerome of Prague, was executed K 9 cultural centre, there are still many details preserved during the Council of Constance. The building was acquired from the earlier church. Outside, the beautifully decorat- by the Prague Museum Association in 1923 and now ed high cross is a reminder of the cemetery there. The square in front of St. Paul’s Church is bordered to the east by a modern department store. On its facade, you can make out the inscription Zum weissen Pfau, a reference to three houses which were pulled down (Zum Wein- garten – The Vineyard, Zum weissen Pfau – The White Peacock and Zur Nussschale – The Nutshell). The ‘Pea- cock’ was considered one of the finest baroque houses in Germany. Examples of its sumptuous stucco ceilings can be admired in today’s reconstructed building. Dur- ing the Council of Constance (1414 – 1418), Jerome of Prague was imprisoned and interrogated several times in a tower near St. Paul’s Church before being condemned as a heretic and burned at the stake on 30 May 1416 – the same fate that befell his comrade Jan Hus a year earlier.

19 HAUS “ZUM DELPHIN” Jerome of Prague, friend and comrade of the Prague reformer Jan Hus (see no. 17), lived in this building, which dates from the early 14th century. Until his arrest, Hus himself lived at the nearby Haus Zur roten Kanne, home of the affluent local widow Fida Pfister (Hussenstrasse 22).

13 16 | SCHNETZTOR 20 TOWN HALL BUILDINGS 21 “ZUM GOLDENEN SCHWERT” (accessible via Kanzleistrasse or Augustinerplatz) During the Council of Constance (1414 – 1418) no fewer The town council offices are an amalgamation of several than three English bishops stayed at the Haus zum golde- historical buildings. The courtyard is well worth seeing nen Schwert (House of the Golden Sword) on what is now and captures the spirit of the Italian Renaissance. At Wessenbergstrasse. According to the chronicle written the heart of the ensemble is the former linen weavers’ by Ulrich Richental, the English delegation organised a guildhall (Zur Salzscheibe, entrance on Kanzleistrasse or grand 24-course banquet there for King Sigismund at the Blätzle Platz), which was rebuilt in the late 16th century. end of January 1415, which was accompanied by a perfor- The council chamber, however, is located within the walls mance of scenes from the New Testament. of the late medieval Haus Zum Thurgau (entrance on Hussenstrasse). The paintings on the facade that faces Kanzleistrasse (1864) depict important scenes from 22 OBERMARKT SQUARE the town’s history, such as the Burgrave of Nuremberg Together with Marktstätte (see no. 4), this was the most assuming control of the March of Brandenburg in 1417. important square in the free imperial city of Constance Equally illuminating are the frescoes in the first floor and a medieval execution site. Obermarkt is bordered to entrance hall (Carl von Häberlin, 1898). The town hall the north by Haus Zum Egli and Haus Zum Kemlin (The gallery hosts temporary exhibitions. Camel), both documented as taverns as early as 1419. The present name Hotel Barbarossa harks back to the Peace of Constance concluded in 1183 between Emperor Frederick I (Barbarossa) and the Lombard League of Italy. Next to it on the right is a late-Gothic building extend- ing over several storeys. The facade frescoes, painted by Carl von Häberlin in 1906, allude to the Burgrave of Nuremberg being invested with control over the March of Brandenburg in 1417, as observed by Ulrich Richental and described in his chronicle. On the ground floor of the commercial building is a wooden pillar bearing the coat of arms and the name of the man who built it, Haffen von Lindow. Hence its name: Haus Zum hohen Hafen. The Malhaus and Fischgrat (Fish Bone) dominate the south of the square. First documented as the Gemalhus (House on Execution Square) in 1293, the Malhaus served as the living quarters for England’s chief lay representative, Richard Earl of Warwick, during the Council of Constance, and was an apothecary’s shop from the 14th century. Of particular note is the magnificent late-Renaissance oriel, which originally belonged to Haus Zum Strahl (Rosgar- tenstrasse 34). Completing the square to the west are Haus Zum grossen Mertzen with its richly decorated gable from 1601 (the Atzenholz family coat of arms) and,

15 20 | TOWN HALL BUILDINGS on the other side of the arbour, the Protestant Church into a civic hall in 1844. A relief by Johannes Grützke (completed in 1873). The remains of the former Chapel of depicting the people’s revolution of 1848 can be seen on St. Lawrence are concealed in the commercial building to the former chancel wall. Adorning Haus Zum Esel, at the the north-east and to the left of ‘Feuergasse’. north-eastern end of Wessenbergstrasse, is a baroque mural by Carl Jakob Stauder entitled ‘Flight into Egypt’. It gives a clear impression of the bright colours typical 23 ROW OF HOUSES ON WESSENBERGSTRASSE / of Constance’s houses up until the 19th century. To the SANKT-STEPHANS-PLATZ / MÜNZGASSE right, on the corner of Münzgasse, is Haus zum hohen The building on the south-western corner consists of two Hirschen, a beautiful patrician town house from the 14th houses, Haus Zum vorderen Mohren (on Wessenberg- century whose pretty Gothic oriel faces out onto Münz- strasse) and Haus Zum hinteren Mohren (on St. Stephen’s gasse. During the Council of Constance, it was the home Square), where there has been a pharmacy since the mid- of Cardinal Francesco Zabarella, who died in Constance in 18th century. Further west, in the background to the left, 1417 before the council was concluded. is the brightly painted Hotel Graf Zeppelin, built in 1904 with the name Zum deutschen Haus (The German House) and which, for a short time, also served as the Upper 24 THE HOUSE WHERE HENRI DUFOUR WAS BORN Rhenish Bank. Opposite, to the right, is the central nave of Guillaume-Henri Dufour, a general, politician and engi- the late-Gothic Franciscan Church, which was converted neer and the most famous founding father of modern-day Switzerland, was born in 1787 in the late-Gothic Haus Zum Falke. The son of Geneva emigrants, he spent several years in Constance and later maintained close relations with the Bonaparte family who lived at Schloss Arenen- berg in nearby Thurgau.

25 FORMER FRANCISCAN MONASTERY AND THE SOUTHERN SIDE OF ST. STEPHEN’S SQUARE The second monastery of the Mendicant Order (‘barefoot monastery’) in Constance, built around 1250 (see nos. 7, 36 and 44). The refectory and chapter house served as meeting places for the English and German nations during the Council of Constance. Because the cardinals and other groups also convened here on various occasions, the Franciscan monastery can be considered the most important meeting place of the Council together with the minster. After the Reformation, it was remodelled and rebuilt in the baroque style (1688 – 1727). The dissolution of the monastery in 1788 brought about a change in its use, first as a barracks and later as a town hall and public baths. Today the buildings serve as a civic hall and school.

17 23 | WESSENBERGSTRASSE The present-day pharmacy Haus Zum Tiergarten, located meeting place for the Papal court, the Rota Romana. The to the south-east of St. Stephen’s Church and now part church was reformed between 1527 and 1549, which led of Wessenbergstrasse, is a superb example of a patrician to the destruction of many of the original furnishings and house from the baroque era. It was built, or possibly holy treasures. From 1550 it was refitted in keeping with only remodelled, by the famous Austrian architect Peter the Catholic faith. Numerous structural alternations have Thumb, who also designed the library at the Abbey of St. been made to the building since 1770. Gall in St. Gallen and the Pilgrimage Church at Birnau. Noteworthy features inside the church include: → Chancel: pews dating from around 1270 and arched 26 ST. STEPHEN’S CHURCH AND THE NORTHERN SIDE windows with late-Gothic stained glass. Tabernacle by the OF ST. STEPHEN’S SQUARE Dutch sculptor Hans Morinck (1594). Baroque figures of (accessible via north side) the apostles from the neighbouring Franciscan church Late-Gothic in its present form and with an interior that (see nos. 20 and 22). Ceiling frescoes by the episcopal has undergone several renovations, the church is thought court painter Franz Ludwig Hermann (post-1770). to date back to an early medieval building from the 7th → Central nave, on the pillars: cycle of the Apostles dating century. There may have been a cemetery chapel on this from the Renaissance. On the upper windowed walls site in late Roman times (4th century). During the Coun- above the nave, frescoes from the 19th century. cil of Constance (1414 – 1418) the church served as a → North aisle: frescoes dating from the late 15th century and an epitaph from the times of the Council of Con- stance. → Gallery: neo-baroque organ screen from 1936. → Further notable features dating from the 16th to the 20th century.

Beyond the church to the north are a number of beauti ful residential and commercial buildings dating from the Middle Ages and early modern period. These include (from east to west): Haus Zum Ritter, Zum weissen Bock, Zum schwarzen Bock and Die vordere Katz. The latter served as a prestigious entry portal (see no. 29) for Con- stance’s patrician guild ‘Zur Katz’, whose estate extended as far as Katzgasse. Next to it on the left is the former ‘Episcopal Hospital’ or ‘Small Hospital’.

19 26 | ST. STEPHEN’S CHURCH 27 LANZENHOF ciety choose to spend their leisure time. His caricatures A patrician family residence dating from the 14th century, of more than 30 familiar and lesser known people are named after the Lanz von Liebenfels family. Barbara of instantly recognisable and symbolically bridge the gap Cilli, wife of King Sigismund, stayed at Lanzenhof in 1415 between past and present. Even the Council of Constance during the Council of Constance. Between 1686 and (1414 – 1418) is incorporated as a motif. Lenk presents 1698 and 1713 and 1715, it accommodated the uprooted the deposition of the Pope in 1414, as described by Ulrich University of Freiburg. Numerous alterations have been Richental, as a counterpart to the modern-day ‘Popemo- made to the buildings since this time. It is now home to bile’ (see no. 51). the public prosecutor’s office and contains Gothic and neo-Gothic frescoes which are well worth seeing. View- ings by prior arrangement only. 29 ARTS CENTRE AT THE MINSTER AND WESSENBERG GALLERY An ensemble comprising several medieval houses and a 28 ‘TRIUMPHAL ARCH’ OR LENK FOUNTAIN new building. With its facilities and new multi-functional The fountain was created by Bodman artist Peter Lenk, rooms, this is a major focal point for the arts in Constance one of the most famous contemporary sculptors in the and the surrounding area. This fascinating complex is Lake Constance region, whose work primarily explores home to the municipal library, the Wessenberg Gallery our obsession with cars and how people in today’s so- and art association, the adult education centre and a café-restaurant. Also hosts temporary exhibitions.

Notable features inside include: → The spacious foyer with late medieval frescoes on the south wall and original vaults above the cellar staircase. → Wessenberg House (the home of Ignaz Heinrich von Wessenberg, the last Vicar general and administrator of the Diocese of Constance, 1774 – 1860). Together with Schloss Arenenberg in Thurgau, it was the most important reception venue in the Alemannic-speaking region in the first half of the 19th century. → The romantic tower house in the courtyard. Today, the building is home to the BildungsTURM (culture tower), which is used for exhibitions. → The late-Gothic Haus Zur Katz (the house where the Constance patricians held social gatherings, built in 1424 and modelled on the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence) with its frescoes and reception rooms. On 19 October 1417 Duke Henry of Bavaria carried out an attack here.

21 28 | ‘TRIUMPHAL ARCH’ 30 ZUM GOLDENEN BRACKEN Ulrich Richental, the chronicler of the Council of Con- stance (1414 – 1418), lived with his wife at the Haus Zum goldenen Bracken. At the time of the council, Richental, a local citizen and son of a former town clerk, was around 55 to 60 years old and had no children. Although he didn’t belong to the inner circles of the Council of Constance, he was involved in its organisation and carried out diplo- matic duties before and during the council. He wrote a kind of journal detailing the daily events and did not hesitate to pay money in exchange for exciting stories. His observations, put together bit by bit, are one of the most important historical sources for the Council of Constance, and they also shed light on people’s everyday lives at that time. An original manuscript from the chronicle can be found at the Rosgarten Museum (see no. 6).

31 MINSTER OF OUR LADY AND MÜNSTERPLATZ (accessible via south side, only some rooms accessible) Cathedral of the Diocese of Constance, which was dissolved in 1821. From the ruins of the late Roman fort that stood on the same site, a first cathedral church emerged by no later than the 7th century, and then underwent repeated alterations. The Romanesque columned basilica, inaugurated in 1089, underwent numerous alterations and renovations after the Reformation. The last of these was the addition of the neo-Gothic spire in 1853. In 1955 the cathedral was granted the title of ‘minor basilica’.

During the Council of Constance (1414 – 1418), this was where the church plenary meeting was convened, which on 6 July 1415 condemned the Prague reformer Jan Hus to death for heresy.

23 31 | MINSTER OF OUR LADY Notable features inside include: → Crypt: dating from the 9th/10th century with the four original gilded medallions from the outer wall of the chancel. The largest in this store of treasure, unique in the Christian world, is the ‘Majestas Domini’ that dates from around the year 1000. → St. Maurice’s Rotunda: a circular structure built in around 940 as a replica of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. In its centre, the Holy Sepulchre, restored in the 13th century. The starting and finishing point for great medieval pilgrimages, e.g. on the Swabian Route to Santiago de Compostela. Decorative figures and frescoes from the Gothic and Renaissance periods. → Cloister: sections dating from the 13th to the 15th century. Late-Gothic frescoes in St. Sylvester’s Chapel. → St. Conrad’s Chapel: dating from the 13th century. → St. Thomas’ Chancel: late-medieval staircase known as the ‘Schnegg’, richly decorated with figures. → East chancel: Gothic pews with ornate woodcarvings. 31 | MINSTER OF OUR LADY Romanesque Madonna from the 13th century. → Central nave: Romanesque monolithic columns from the 11th century, pulpit from 1680. → Welser Chapel: masterpiece of late-Gothic sculpture. → Westwork: Renaissance organ case (early 16th century) and frescoes dating from various periods. → Entrance hall: wooden doors with important carvings depicting scenes from the life of Jesus (1470) and ‘Great Christ of Constance’.

There are many more fascinating features inside the cathedral. However, some of these can only be seen on one of the regular guided tours. Accompanied tours are also possible at other times, by prior arrangement. It is well worth climbing up the cathedral tower to enjoy the breathtaking panoramic views from the top. On Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square), you can see the ruins of a late-Roman fort (built in around 300 AD). The under- ground exhibition here is only accessible as part of a guided tour.

25 29 + 31 | MÜNSTERPLATZ & ARTS CENTRE 32 EPISCOPAL PALACE 33 FORMER JESUIT COLLEGE AND CHRIST CHURCH Today’s neo-classical palace was built in 1831 to house Founded in 1604 during the Counter-Reformation, an the museum association and has served as the cathedral educational institution for pupils of the Jesuit Order, also presbytery since 1959. It was built on the foundations of known as the ‘Societas Jesu’. After its dissolution, it be- the Bischofspfalz, the seat of the bishops of Constance, came a Humanist grammar school. Its chapel is a prime that was torn down in 1829/30. It also served as a resi- example of the ecclesiastical architecture of the late dence for high-ranking visitors to the town including Ho- Renaissance and early baroque period in southern Ger- henstaufen Emperor Frederick Barbarossa and Frederick many. Today, an Old Catholic Church of Christ and public the Great, as well as Pope John XXIII, whose demands administration offices. Viewings are usually only possible were such that the palace had to be specially renovated by prior arrangement. at the start of the Council of Constance. After Pope John XXIII was deposed, the council’s newly elected Pope, Martin V, moved into the building. After the Council of 34 MUNICIPAL THEATRE (STADTTHEATER) Constance, the bishops of Constance stayed at the palace A former Jesuit College building, built in 1610. Plays have up until 1526 before moving on to Meersburg. From that been performed here since the 17th century. This long time on, the palace was only home to the episcopal chan- tradition makes the Stadttheater in Constance one of the cery and became visibly run down until the dissolution of oldest theatres in the German-speaking world. the diocese between 1821 and 1827.

35 CATHEDRAL DEANERY (DOMPROPSTEI) Built on the site of the ‘Small Hospital’ (see no. 26) in 1609 as an administrative and official building for the prince bishop. Later the residence of the Von Fingerlin family and headquarters of the Baden Seekreis district. Of particular note inside are the chapel (Russian Ortho- dox) and splendid rococo hall. Today used as state notary offices. Viewing by prior appointment only.

36 ZOFFINGEN DOMINICAN CONVENT Founded in 1257. The only convent in Constance to sur- vive secularisation, because it had run a girls’ school from 1775 until 2017 / 2018 (see no. 41). The delightful convent church is an oasis of calm and contemplation amid the hustle and bustle of the Niederburg district.

27 33 + 34 | CHRIST CHURCH & MUNICIPAL THEATRE 37 FORMER CANON SEMINARY OF ST. JOHN → Second floor: Parsifal cycle (southern side wall; post- The fourth stopping point on the Roma secunda (see 1320), ‘Weavers’ frescoes’ showing linen production and no. 18), established under St. Conrad in the 10th century. silk working (northern side wall; post-1320), ‘Sensory or- Served as the parish church for the Niederburg district gans of man’ and ‘Samson’s battle with the lion’ (eastern until its dissolution in 1813 (see no. 41). It has undergone side wall). major alterations since then and is now used, among other things, as a restaurant. Together with the frescoes in the former Dominican Monastery (see no. 44) and Trinity Church (see no. 7), the paintings at Haus Zur Kunkel are among the finest exam- 38 HAUS “ZUR KUNKEL” ples of Constance’s extensive collection of secular and The canon seminary originally belonged to a cleric from religious frescoes. Viewing only as part of a special guided the nearby Collegiate Church of St. John. Exquisite Gothic tour arranged by the Tourist Information Office. frescoes can be seen throughout the house. → Courtyard entrance: the virtues fighting against the vices (north-west wall; 14th century). 39 BLARER CANON SEMINARY First documented as a residence in 1267. This prestigious building did not, however, acquire its current appearance until the 17th century. A court building from 1846 (first the Baden Hofgericht, today the regional court). The interior was redesigned after a fire. Especially noteworthy is the beautiful Renaissance portal with its artistic representation of St. James.

40 TETTIKOFER HOF From 1418 onwards, the prestigious residence of several patrician families in Constance. The late-Gothic portal dates back to 1483, the prominent oriel from the Renaissance period.

41 DOMINICAN CONVENT OF ST. PETER AN DER FAHR AND NIEDERBURG DISTRICT The Dominican Convent of St. Peter an der Fahr has its or- igins in a Beguine community (mid-13th century), whose sisters later adopted the Rule of St. Dominic. In 1785 it merged with the neighbouring Zoffingen Dominican Convent (see no. 36). The convent, with its school for girls until 2017/2018, was the spiritual centre of Niederburg. Constance’s oldest district, Niederburg extends from

29 41 | NIEDERBURG the Rhine in the north to Münsterhill in the south. The term ‘an der Fahr’ comes from the German for ‘ferry’ and refers to a ferry crossing that once existed here. With its rambling lanes and its pretty houses, many dating back to the 13th century, Niederburg is one of the most beautiful parts of Constance. It is well worth taking an evening stroll here, stopping at any of the numerous wine taverns.

42 RHINE GATE TOWER, POWDER TOWER AND THE NORTH-WEST BANK OF THE RHINE Northern town gate erected in around 1200 to protect the medieval bridge (see no. 16). In front of it stands a baroque Nepomuk sculpture (replica). Downriver you’ll see the Powder Tower (Pulverturm), which was built in the early 14th century and forms the north-west corner of the town fortifications. Also used for a time as the town’s prison. It is thought the robber baron Jörg von End was interned here at the time of the Council of 42 | RHINE GATE TOWER Constance. Once the Council of Constance had come to an end, a number of Jews were imprisoned here with the consent of their protector King Sigismund, who hoped to pay his council debts with their release fees. Opposite the Rhine Tower (Rheintorturm) is the ‘Neptun’ rowing club’s Bauhaus-style boathouse; to its left is the officers’ mess of the 6th Baden Infantry Regiment of Kaiser Friedrich III. A little further down is the spa and indoor swimming pool opened in 1937. The buildings which begin further westwards belong to the ‘Stadt am See’, a residential and business area that is currently being developed on a former brownfield site. As well as heritage-listed buildings, it is also home to a mosque with a traditional minaret.

31 43 | SEESTRASSE 43 FORMER PETERSHAUSEN MONASTERY AND ART NOUVEAU BUILDINGS ON SEESTRASSE To complete St. Conrad’s vision of a Roma secunda (see no. 18), Bishop Gebhard (Conrad’s second successor, later also canonised), founded the Benedictine Monastery of Petershausen on the opposite side of the Rhine in the year 983. It was modelled – both in name and position – on St. Peter’s Cathedral in Rome. After a devastating fire, the monastery was rebuilt in the 12th century and served as the residence for Sigismund and his Hungarian horse- men during the Council of Constance. A three-week ‘council within a council’, an assembly of Benedictine clerics, also took place here. Its aim was the reorganisation of the Benedictine Order, to allay the many grievances that pre- vailed at the start of the 15th century. Between 1763 and 1769 the monastery was completely redesigned in the baroque style and was dissolved soon afterwards (1802). It then served for a short time as a Baden palace. After that, the site was used as regimental headquarters for army 43 | ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM units stationed in Constance (from the mid-19th century until the withdrawal of the French troops in 1978).

The complex is now home to numerous institutions: → The Baden-Württemberg State Archaeological Museum with its extensive collections on the history of south-west Germany (convent building; east and central wings). → Constance city archives in the western section of the same building. → The Constance Music School (prelature). → The police headquarters (barracks). → Various municipal offices. → Administrative offices of Constance district authority (new building).

To the east of Sternenplatz (‘Star Square’, named after a medieval tavern), Seestrasse features some of the finest examples of residential art nouveau architecture any- where in south-west Germany.

33 44 | STEIGENBERGER INSELHOTEL 44 FORMER DOMINICAN/PREACHERS’ MONASTERY respectively). In 1415, Manuel Chrysoloras, the highly (STEIGENBERGER INSELHOTEL) respected Byzantine scholar and teacher of many Italian Monastery of the Mendicant Order founded in 1235, Renaissance humanists, was laid to rest in the chancel of associated with famous German-speaking mystic Henry the monastery church. Prague reformer Jan Hus, who was Suso. The former church nave (today a banqueting hall) burned at the stake in Constance, was held captive for contains a wealth of early-Gothic and high-Gothic fres- several months in the tower, which can still be seen today. coes; some are among the oldest in Europe (pre-1276). Exceptional medieval cloister with frescoes painted in the late-19th century by Carl von Häberlin. After the disso- 45 OLD TOWN HALL (ALTES RATHAUS) lution of the monastery (1785), the building served as a Originally built in 1484, today’s building underwent se textile printing works and banking house of the Macaire veral alterations and extensions in the years that followed. family. It was also the birthplace of airship pioneer Count Especially noteworthy is its late-Gothic double portal, Ferdinand von Zeppelin (1838). A hotel since 1875; for which is crowned by a plaque bearing the coat of arms of a short time after 1966 was also the seat of the newly Ulrich Gryfenberg (Imperial coat of arms flanked by the founded University of Constance. During the Council of town’s two patron saints, Conrad and Pelagius, and the Constance (1414 – 1418), the Italian and French nations coats of arms of the diocese and town of Constance). In convened here (in the refectory and chapter house 1414, in the previous building, town officials welcomed King Sigismund into the then council chamber on his arrival at the Council of Constance.

46 ZOLLERNSTRASSE WITH ITS ROW OF MEDIEVAL HOUSES On the northern side is the Stadler printing and pub- lishing house, built in 1905. To the east is the Haus Zum guten Hirten (The Good Shepherd) with its door relief of the same name dating from 1608 and, further down, the studio and house belonging to the famous Baden court painter Marie Ellenrieder. The facades on the southern side show the remains of arcaded passageways, which point to their original use as part of the upper fish market (see no. 47).

35 47 | HOHES HAUS 47 HOHES HAUS 48 HAUS “ZUM GOLDENEN LÖWEN” The oldest high-rise medieval building in Constance was Painted in around 1580, the frescoes that adorn the out- built in 1294, and, with the pointed arches of its upper side of this characteristic building give a vivid impression windows, clearly reflects the artistic form of the Gothic of how colourful late medieval houses once were. Al- era. However, the interior has fragments of frescoes though many are reconstructions, it is easy to imagine which can be classified as late Romanesque. During the the high artistic standards of the original decoration. Council of Constance, Hohes Haus was home to Burgrave Frederick of Nuremberg of the House of Hohenzollern. In 1418, it was the venue for the marriage of Frederick to 49 HAUS “ZUR ALTEN KATZ” the daughter of the Silesian Duke Ludwig of Brieg. There Prior to moving into their new palace right beside the is a painting of the wedding on the northern side (a copy cathedral, the patrician guild ‘Zur Katz’ owned this from the Richental Chronicle) and an illustration of a delightful property in what at the time was Sammlungs fish market on the eastern side (both from 1935). Other gasse (the oriel is a free reconstruction). After 1424, the murals that refer to the Burgrave of Nuremberg and the building was sold to Constance’s Jewish community. Council of Constance can be found at Haus Zum Hohen They set up a prayer room inside which existed for only Hafen on Obermarkt square (see no. 22). a short time. According to medieval writings, there were Jewish quarters between what are today Münzgasse and Salmannsweilergasse and also in Rosgartenstrasse (see no. 6). There is now no visual evidence of this.

50 KAUFHAUS AM HAFEN The Konzilgebäude (Council of Constance building) was erected between 1388 and 1391 as a grain store and warehouse and hosted the Constance canvas fair for a time. During the Council of Constance (1414 – 1418) the conclave convened from 8 to 11 November 1417 in the first floor of the building and elected Cardinal Otto Colonna, under the name Martin V, as the sole Pope. In the 19th century, the upper hall was used for an exhibition of commemorative artefacts on the Council of Con- stance, and as a result, the building became known as the ‘Konzil’ (Council). Altered several times since that time, the ‘Konzil’ has been used as a venue for concerts and events since the beginning of the 20th century.

37 50 | KAUFHAUS AM HAFEN 51 ‘IMPERIA’ HARBOUR STATUE This statue by sculptor Peter Lenk (see no. 28) is nine metres tall and weighs eighteen tonnes, and is inspired by a 16th century Italian courtesan of the same name. Hono- ré de Balzac, the famous French novelist, transported this historical figure to the time of the Council of Constance in his literary work ‘Les Cent Contes drolatiques’. Imperia holds aloft King Sigismund in her right hand and Martin V, the Pope elected by the Council of Constance, in her left. Lenk portrays them as grotesque figures who have unlawfully taken possession of the insignias of power.

52 MAIN RAILWAY STATION Built between 1860 and 1863, the station with its neo- Gothic tower reflects the strong links between Constance and Florence in the Middle Ages. The station building is yet another in Constance (see no. 29) that was modelled on Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio with its beautiful wall pain- 51 | IMPERIA tings depicting the city.

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