4 Introduction 6 The Top 25 18 Classic Kicks Sweeps Your Chance to Win the New Classics 20 Spotlight: Asics 23 Spotlight: Alife 24 Spotlight: Fila 27 Spotlight: Concepts 28 Spotlight: K-Swiss 31 Spotlight: Sportie LA There are sneakers and then there are

— They are the styles that define an era, make a company’s reputation, spawn legions of imitators and empower a generation of athletes, fans and sneaker die-hards. Often driven by amazing functionality or a technological breakthrough, and always motivated by ultra-fresh styling, the shoes that inspire devotion have a hook that keeps sneaker lovers coming back for more, years and even decades after the shoes first made their mark. And while you could spend hours debating how to rank the best of the best, and the who and the what that got left off, there’s no doubt that the styles Footwear News chose as the 25 true classics have revolutionized the sneaker scene. Here, we lay out the looks that have made history. By Jennifer ERNST beaudry

Photos Courtesy: Nike, Adidas, PF Flyers, New Balance, Converse, Jordan, Puma, K-Swiss, Saucony, Reebok, FILA, Asics, Onitsuka Tiger 04 Photos By: Stephen Sullivan (Pro-Keds, Keds), Thomas Iannaccone (Vans) 05 he Superstar was born out of basketball — the 1969 style was created as a low-top version of the T Pro Model — but it found its home in hip-hop and Pro-Keds Royal has made waves in pop culture ever since. The rubber toecap that gave the Superstar its singular look was ro-Keds was launched in 1949 by then-owner Uniroyal as a Adidas intended as toe protection for b-ballers (Kareem Abdul- men’s athletic brand that built on the Keds name with a focus on Jabbar was a fan, and at one point, 75 percent of the P basketball. The first shoe to market was the Royal, a canvas NBA had adopted the style), but the support, cushioning silhouette in both high- and low-top versions. With the brand- and non-marking sole made it a favorite with fans, too. defining blue-and-red stripes on the midsole, the Royal enjoyed Superstar By 1986, the all-leather style was firmly entrenched in a successful run in its first few decades, including endorsements the hip-hop game, and rap group Run-DMC gave the by power-team-of-the-era the Minneapolis Lakers and their star, style a Top 40 platform with “My Adidas,” an ode to the George Mikan. It was in the 1970s, though, that Pro-Keds and their Superstars they wore on the regular. The kicks came Royal sneaker had their moment. Still available in both high-top and to symbolize Run-DMC, with fans displaying their own low-top versions, the Royal (and its evolutions, the Royal Plus and pairs, often worn laceless, just like Run and the boys the Royal Master) came in leather, mesh and suede versions and was did. (The reportedly $1 million endorsement deal Adidas worn on-court by major names including Kareem Abdul-Jabbar and later signed with Run-DMC was fittingly the first major Nate “Tiny” Archibald — which helped propel the style to success deal in hip-hop.) But the popularity of the Superstar — on the streets, too. After falling out of the limelight, the line was whether in the classic black-on-white colorway or the licensed in 2004 to hip-hop impresario Damon Dash, who tried to many variations since — has held steady even as hip- increase the brand’s fashion cred — and the Royal took a backseat hop’s look and sound have evolved. If anything, the shoes to new iterations. But with Dash facing his own financial woes have cracked the mainstream: nu-metal band Korn made and the brand struggling to hit the desired consumer, this spring the style their go-to, and Estelle gave props to Kanye’s Keds took Pro-Keds back in-house, and designer Peter Koytroulis shelltoes in last summer’s “American Boy” single. has made the line’s heritage looks (chief among them the Royal) a centerpiece of the brand.

he innate, often-intimate the wearer customize the fit. The shoe connection between basketball was designed, as the brand’s tag line at T players and sneaker culture the time said, to help you “play at your seems completely intuitive now, but full speed.” It also had a shout-out for he biggest basketball shoe back since — well, at least not if it wasn’t for a Boston Celtics point fans: Bob Cousy’s signature appeared ever? Maybe. Nike’s iconic until 2007, when Nike celebrated guard named Bob Cousy, on the insole, although T 1982 high-top basketball the style’s silver anniversary with it might have been a the superstar once told style is a solid contender for a lot a year of limited-edition releases different story. Cousy, FN the signature didn’t of mosts: most collected, most sold, and special makeups. While some who started setting the look familiar — “I think most versions made. But given its fans (even some of the most devout) NBA on fire after his 1950 my agent might have staggering success today (more accused the company of saturating rookie season, joined with signed this for me.” And than 11 million pairs sold each year) the market with limited editions, Boston-based PF Flyers while it’s no longer an the AF1 was initially planned as a sales have remained strong. Retailers to create a special shoe on-court favorite, the Bob one-season one-off by legendary say the classic white-on-white just for him. The Bob Cousy has found new life Nike designer Bruce Kilgore. (It colorway has had a resurgence Cousy, which debuted as a classic retro style. was notable at the time for being in the recession era, and the AF1 in 1956, looked like the PF Flyers (now owned P F Flyers the first style to feature Nike’s continues to draw fans high-profile Chuck Taylors that were by New Balance) has Air technology through the entire (Nelly, Jay-Z, Jerome Bettis, among the shoe of choice at the made the shoe one of Bo b Cousy length of the sole.) Luckily for kicks others) and low-profile alike. time — a canvas upper its major focuses as it fans, however, retailers pressured and a vulcanized sole — but featured aims to attract a newer, hipper customer the Beaverton, Ore.-based athletic basketball-ready additions such as a and more upscale distribution. Made in giant to bring back the shoe, which more structured insole for cushioning new colors and materials, the original, it did in 1984. And it hasn’t looked and a “gullwing” closure (laces thread signature shoe (no matter whose through a second eyelet on the top signature is actually on it) is still breaking hole, located on a separate tab) that let new ground. 06 19

09 Clyde

amed for a nickname, the low- cut kicks Puma called the Clyde have become one of the most cars the — Clyde the also was progenitor of personalized kicks. Fashion-savvy Clyde wearers were known for customizing their pairs by coloring in the wide swoop of leather that up matching and logo Puma the as served new laces. Puma, like other athletic design- a create later would brands, your-own program (in this Puma case, Mongolian BBQ) that built on what the Clyde started. wearers But fans had of the markers the out break low-profile to have still will style if they can’t find theThe Clyde among the many Puma rightoffering: color combo on isn’t menu. the customize-your-own N recognizable shoes of all in time. 1973 Created for Walt New Frazier, York Knicks the point legendary guard, the shoes honored Frazier’s desire for and a became — wider with their fit grippy outsole and suede upper — the newest thing basketball in shoes. Embroidered on the side a nickname other players had “Clyde,” was given Frazier for his outfits outlandishly and sharp on-court ball steals,which put his both of fellow style The players Barrow. Clyde gangster in high-style mind of made waves off-court as well, becoming the first non-canvas sneakerfrom to emerge basketball as a leisure style. legitimate Embraced by hip-hop — and those who liked spray paint to the sides of subway ajor movies have a huge hand in shaping and trends, one 1980s flick managed to create an instant hit inthe shoe world — and helped establish the fortunes of one iconic M sneaker Vans launched brand. in Calif.-based Orange 1966 Country, with a but slip-on in style, 1977 the company evolved it into a shoe that would transport — and translate — that laid-back Cali culture to the rest of the The world. Classic Slip-On bears all the hallmarks construction and Vulcanized a low-profile silhouette of a skate style: provide good board feel, the brand’s trademark waffle sole pattern (replacing the earlier siped style) keeps the shoes in contact the and board, the with laceless construction makes it easy to wear. But the style quickly expanded beyond its skate and BMXers adopted it — and it surf really hit the big time when actor base Sean when Penn donned a pair of Vans in a “Fast 1982’s distinctive in Spicoli Jeff stoner as role his for 1979) checkerboard in released (first pattern Times at Ridgemont High.” Penn’s turn as the ultimate California surfer-slacker was so memorable that to many, the version of the Classic checkerboard Slip-On have another Spicolis. name:

Converse Chuck Taylor

imaginable fabric and in every size. And its famous its And size. every in and fabric imaginable fans include designer allegiance to the classic Johnblack version led him Varvatos, to a deal with whoseConverse and a line of shoes, many of which take their inspiration All-Star. from the All-Star he slim, unassuming silhouette of the Keds Champion belies its debut, 1916 its At this: Consider game. sneaker the in significance the canvas Champion was the first rubber-soled shoe, the first in every the model. Then the Champion ran into popular styles: the Too many same varieties problem were available as in many too and the iconic many blue-heel label had lost much of its cachet. But in the last places, 10 years, a rebranding campaign starring actress Mischa designer Nanette Todd Oldham, collaborations Lepore with Lily Barton, Pulitzer, and and others, has helped build new buzz around the Champion — and so did pulling back distribution. also Keds has made promoting the original style a focus for this fall, including issuing green an label Loomstate and York. Barneys New eco-friendly version by T vulcanized style (courtesy of a partnership with tire experts ad man (Keds Henry Goodyear) the first style“sneaker.” to be called a critically, and, movements stealthy the describe to phrase the coined McKinney Nelson that were possible due to the newly applied rubber sole.) In its earliest days, the Champion was an on-court favorite for tennis players, but by Audrey Paul Newman, it had become a go-to the basic: 1950s and 1960s, Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy and the Ramones were all photographed in of the rainbow, is available in every color the unisex Chuck Taylor style Taylor Chuck unisex the company to a rebound, and today, bought the brand in 2003, leading the Athletic juggernaut Nike stepped in and Converse to a bankruptcy filing in 2001. but hard times and changing fashions led controlled the majority of the sneaker market, By 1966 (shortly before Taylor’s death), Converse more flexible and add a patch for he ankle support, suggested. With Taylor’s changes signature on (and the patch, his which also featured star Converse is the now known for) the shoe struck a new spark — one a that Taylor, tireless salesman and promoter, fanned into a steady business. s h o e he sneaker first marketed as the All-Star has lived up to its best- the is All-Star Taylor name: Chuck Converse Some say the

pointers: pointers: make the shoe Chicago offices asked for and a sales He gig. also priceless some company gave the Taylor. Taylor. In 1921, Taylor, now in need of approached a Converse’s job, and low-top versions, the simple silhouette was worn by then-high school player Charles pro) eventual (and for the basketball still-emerging Available in both high- market. much so, in fact, that the style usually just by goes “Chucks” and is still 1917, in appeared first style canvas vulcanized The instantly recognizable. when Converse created a T selling, most successful shoe in history — so n 1965, Adidas introduced a provided ventilation in addition tennis shoe for top player to subtle branding, has become I Robert Haillet. But in 1971, maybe the most recognizable Saucony Jazz K-Swiss Classic with Haillet’s star waning, the aspect of the Stan Smith, even as German company approached Adidas has treated the shoe to new nnovations in tennis footwear, much like basketball, tend to find aucony has made a lot of athletic styles since its founding in 1898, American phenom Stan Smith materials and a whole spectrum of life outside the lines, and the K-Swiss Classic is no exception. The but nothing has resonated quite like its 1981 flagship running style: to see if he’d consider putting new colors. In 1998, the company I all-white style made its first appearance in 1966 on the courts of Sthe Jazz. At the time, the shoe embodied the best in premium his name on an Adidas model. brought a new version of the classic Wimbledon. In addition to the non-marking outsole and all-leather running technology: triangular lugs for better traction, lots of cushioning Soon after, the Haillet style was to the market with the Stan Smith upper — a first for the sport — the shoe featured the five-stripe design and the trademark curve with three dots on the side (which, reportedly, rechristened the “Stan Smith” and Millennium (part of its reissued that K-Swiss was known for. Wide popularity (and wide distribution) represented Pennsylvania’s Saucony river and the boulders in its path). a sneaker-world icon was born. icons Millennium series) that racked up big sales for the Classic, as both male and female shoppers Its popularity with runners as a performance item waned in the 1990s, In addition to its all-leather upper preserved the perfed logo while used the shoe’s simple silhouette and colorway as a versatile basic. But though, when the company debuted the Grid cushioning system and and grass-court outsole, the new updating the outsole and upper. Of by the 2000s, the shoe’s cachet was seriously scuffed, a victim of too Arch-lock technologies used now (though the Jazz still has a place in shoe kept another feature from the course, it needn’t have bothered: many styles in too many places for too little money. Several seasons ago, the technical running ProGrid series). But everyday sneaker fans have Haillet: it didn’t apply the brand’s The original Stan Smith continues though, the brand started to pull back on the style, sacrificing sales for a fondness for the Jazz’ distinctive outsole, nylon-and-suede upper and three-stripe trademark, relying to be a best seller for the company a chance to remake the shoe’s image. This year, Westlake Village, Calif.- many colorways. Today, the silhouette is the centerpiece of Lexington, on a perfed call out instead. That — to date, more than 30 million based K-Swiss launched the 2009 Classic with a slimmer silhouette and Mass.-based Saucony’s Originals program, where in 2002 it was adapted original perforated design, which pairs have been sold worldwide modernized interior and exterior (including new EVA heel cups and into a sleeker, lower-to-the-ground model (the Jazz Low Pro), as well as — with the original footbeds and softer leathers), and redistributed the Classic to higher-end a vegan version of the same low-pro style and a chunkier silhouette with white-and-green accounts. And to advertise the reworked kicks, the brand made the 2009 a beefed up heel (1990’s Jazz 3000 and 1991’s Jazz 6000). It’s also been design still turning Classic the centerpiece of its ad campaign, shot in black and white with remade entirely in duct tape, as a collaboration with graphic novel “The heads. some of K-Swiss’ top runners and triathletes, as well as faces from the Red Star” and served as the canvas for high-profile items from retailers fashion and red-carpet worlds, including longtime brand spokeswoman including Solebox in Berlin and New York’s Alife Rivington Club. Anna Kournikova, Ed Westwick and Rolling Stones daughter Alexandra Adidas Richards. Stan neakers aren’t normally designed laces and a leggings/skinny jeans- with women in mind, but the appropriate silhouette, the Freestyle found Smassive success of the aerobics- famous fans including Brooke Shields and targeted Freestyle showed the world just Cybill Shepherd (who wore a pair to the Smith how much women could love their kicks. 1985 Emmys). In fact, huge sales (in 1984, Released in 1982 in response to the growing for example, the shoe made up more than popularity of aerobics half of the company’s sales) and incredible classes (reportedly demand for the ultra-hip high-top boosted inspired by complaints Reebok to the top of the athletic market for from then-Reebok CEO a brief, shining moment in the style’s 1980s Angel Martinez’ wife heydey. But years after the shoe cycled out that nothing on the of favor, Reebok re-released the era-defining market worked for her shoe with parties and fanfare for its 25th or her classmates), anniversary in 2007. All decked out in new the ankle-supporting, colors, the reissued Freestyle (which also floor-gripping, impact- appeared in some of the Canton, Mass.- cushioning style initially based brand’s artist series, from Basquiat caused a frenzy with and Rolland Berry) again showed an uncanny Jane Fonda-wannabees, sense of timing, coming out just in time to but quickly stretched capitalize on the in-again ’80s look. beyond gym wear. With

R ee b o k Freestyle bright colors, funky 11 hen Italian shoe brand Fila introduced a new Air Jordan I W fitness shoe in 1987, it didn’t look far for the name: “F” hen then-struggling Nike would eventually outlast the career represented Fila, and “13” stood signed rookie phenom of its namesake — and become a for the label’s 13th shoe. (The style WMichael Jordan to a shoe company in its own right with its was similar in look and feel to contract in 1984 (five years, $2.5 own athletes. There are said to be another straightforwardly named million), the company saw a chance more colorups and versions of the Fila style of the time: The Original to make its mark on the basketball Jordan I than any other model in Fitness.) But despite the name (or world. The first salvo in that battle the franchise, and while the 1994 Fila maybe because of it — simplicity is arrived in 1985: a Peter Moore- re-release of the shoe was a flop, the often best), Fila’s F-13 midcut shoe designed, black-and-red hightop that 2001 retro was a near-instant sellout. became one of the brand’s most immediately created controversy And the Jordan franchise continues iconic styles. At its release date, the when the NBA disallowed its use to expand. After the brand came to weight-cutting, exposed midsole (citing the aforementioned red-and- a crossroad in 2009 with its 23rd F-13 and stability-endowing cupsole black colorway as being against its shoe — a marker many wondered were cutting edge. These days, the padded collar, ankle strap and two- uniform policy). But Jordan wore the would end the Air Jordan franchise part swooping logo are recognized as retro classics. As the brand’s shoes anyway, and the $5,000 a game given the number’s significance in most popular style it has been made over in dozens of materials and Nike reportedly forked over to pay the athlete’s career — it began a colorways, and has given rise to several of the brand’s other best- his fines may have been one of the new era with the Air Jordan 2009, a selling and highest-profile kicks, including the vulcanized variation, smartest investments it ever made. series of shoes that, while no longer the Vulc-13, and last season’s popular ladies model, the Melrose. And The Air Jordan became a runaway tied to Jordan’s on-court heroics, there’s more to come — next up is the digital F-13. success, spawning knockoffs aplenty continue to showcase the latest in t’s hard to imagine a Nike without Air: The cushioning and launching a shoe dynasty that Nike innovation and design. technology is now found in almost all the company’s I footwear, from the Jordan brand to Nike’s Cole Haan dress shoes. But who knows what the future would have held for the now-legendary technology if it hadn’t been for 1987’s Air Max 1, the first Nike shoe to let customers orged in the crucible of the March of this year, Converse (now see the Air pocket in the heel. Designed by revered hotly contested 1986 season, owned by Nike and once again sneaker guru Tinker Hatfield, the Air Max 1 had the Converse Fthe Larry Bird-Magic Johnson interested in the technical basketball biggest Air unit in the heel the company had ever used in rivalry made for some amazing games market) reissued the Weapon in a running shoe, making it the premier cushioning shoe in — and some very memorable TV its original colorways. And earlier Nike’s line. Initially offered in mesh-and-synthetic suede Weapon commercials for the shoe they both this fall, the brand debuted the (a leather-upper version was released the following year), wore, the Converse Weapon. (Magic next evolution of the Weapon: the the Air Max 1 was also a revolution in looks, too — the red and Bird rapping? Pure gold.) The Converse Weapon EVO, the original and blue uppers stood apart in the field of neutral gray- Weapon was one of the most popular silhouette (including the star-chevron and-white competitors. The design was popular enough technical basketball shoes of the era logo) updated with the company’s to spawn an entire Air Max franchise, but sneaker fans — some of the game’s top players new Converse Balls cushioning, still clamored for the original. In 1992, they partially got elected to “Choose Your Weapon,” as which puts polyurethane balls in the their wish, when Nike retroed the style in leather with an the commercials exhorted — and it heel for shock absorption. While a updated Air Max 90 outsole. Their dream got even closer featured some of the latest cutting- variety of colorways will be available in 1995, when nylon versions hit shelves. This year, Nike edge technology, nationwide by the end of fall, the went whole hog and released a limited-edition version including the company went back to the style’s of its flagship style in select boutique and Nike retail brand’s Y-Bar roots for the release. First up: color stores — and new colorways and material stories come s t a b i l i t y blockings honoring the L.A. Lakers out every season to fill the seemingly unlimited appetite design. In and the Boston Celtics, of course. sneakerheads have for the style. N i k e Air Ma x 1 13 he third installment in the Jordan franchise was the canvas for a lot of firsts: The 1988 release was the first T shoe in the series to be designed by Tinker Hatfield, the Onitsuka Tiger first Jordan shoe to have a visible Air unit in the outsole, the first to use the “Jumpman” logo (an homage to Jordan’s Slam Dunk contest win the year before that has since become the symbol of the entire brand) and the first to use the elephant- Mexico 66 embossed synthetic leather that set a new standard for fashion in functional shoes. The shoe — a perennial best seller — was first retroed in 1994, with re-ups in 2001, 2003 and 2007. A 2009 he Mexico City Summer Games later took on the Asics name.) The style edition in royal blue was released internationally, but not in the of 1968 (perhaps best known — a lightweight, suede lace-up racing States, much to the dismay of American fans. And one more first Tstateside for the Black Power flat — was the first to use the “tiger the Jordan III can lay claim to lies in the advertising world. The salutes of American sprinters Tommie stripe” logo that would appear on all Jordan III was the first shoe in the series that Jordan superfan Smith and John Carlos) was the launching subsequent styles and can be seen today Spike Lee pitched while in his Mars Blackmon persona, asking pad for one of the sneaker world’s most in the modified version that Asics uses the oft-quoted: “Is it the shoes?” (Answer, as any fan knows: enduring running styles: Onitsuka Tiger’s on all its shoes. The style later branched “Money, it’s gotta be the shoes.”) Mexico 66, which had hit the market two out to include a hook-and-loop closure years before the Olympics. (Onitsuka version known as the Mexico 66 Baja. Air Jordan III Nike Cortez ne of Nike’s best-known did all that running in the eponymous ew Balance ushered in update, and kept tweaking the silhouettes actually started movie, and a few seasons later a new era in technical shoe in 1996 (the 999) and 1998 Olife outside the Swoosh. (spurred, perhaps, by Gump’s cross- N running with 1982’s 990 (the 990) before retooling the shoe The shoe that would later be known country journey), Nike re-released runner. The shoe had more EVA again for the 991, which debuted as the Nike Cortez was initially the style. In fact, the Cortez has foam for extra cushioning, used a in 2001 with a new upper and new released in 1972 as the Tiger Corsair, just kept coming around ever since. Vibram outsole for long-distance shape. The series (the 991 and the in partnership with Onitsuka Tiger. The Cortez was in the first round durability and used the brand’s 993 are both available today) is the

(It was renamed when Nike’s of styles to be brought back when a n c e Encap heel technology for extra cornerstone of the brand, both for relationship with Onitsuka Tiger came Nike launched its Vintage program stability. And priced at $100, the runners who love its cushioning, to an end.) Designed by Nike founder in 1997, re-creating old silhouettes shoe broke the C-note ceiling and stability and variety of widths, and Bill Bowerman, the shoe was built in contemporary materials, and in still became the best-selling shoe for sneaker fans who dig its classic to go the distance (100-plus miles) 2003, it was added to the company’s of the day, proving that serious silhouette. Consider this: Apple’s for serious runners. It featured the nascent ID program so fans could runners didn’t mind shelling out Steve Jobs wears them to the running world’s first full-length dual- design their own colorways. And for top-of-the-line goods. Updates point that he’s almost an unofficial density midsole and a herringbone- this year, under the watch of Nike in 1985 (the 995) and 1988 (the spokesman — almost enough to

pattern outsole for traction. Initially Global Design Director Jessie Leyva, 990 series 996) enhanced the cushioning. In make the shoe a classic in and offered in leather, the shoe was soon the Cortez got a lightweight update, 1993, the company launched its of itself. remade in nylon for increased drying with a full-length Phylon midsole Absorbz cushioning in the 998 speed and decreased weight. The and a one-piece upper made of the Cortez got a pop culture plug in 1994, company’s new Flywire material. when Tom Hanks as Forrest Gump N ew B a l 15 an inflation ever be a good (some with C02 cylinders providing the sics is best known in the U.S. for its serious technical thing? In 1989, it was the only pumping action where the standard running products, and the sneaker world is no exception. Cthing when it came to sneakers. model would have been too weighty) AAlthough, among sneakerheads, the most desired kicks The release of Reebok’s Pump shoe were produced for football, track, hockey aren’t the new Kinseis or the latest Gel-Nimbus models. Instead, a started a craze that spread beyond the and tennis (in fact, Michael Chang’s high-mileage, ultra-plush running shoe from the mid-1990s gets all basketball players it initially targeted Court Victory Pumps are some of the love: the Gel-Lyte III. And while the Gel cushioning in the style is and onto the feet of kids and adults the most iconic of the series). Today, the forerunner to what the company uses today, running technology across the globe. The original Pump, a with the 20th anniversary of the style has moved on. But never fear, running fans: Even though the retro high-top, high-tech (and high-priced) approaching, Reebok has been planning style isn’t part of the technical running side of the business anymore, style designed for on-court play, featured a series of Pump-themed events for fall it’s still around for those who didn’t get a chance to buy the shoe a special air cushion in the tongue that and will step up the special makeups in its heyday. The Gel Lyte III has become Asics’ go-to style for inflated to provide extra ankle support — after all, while the style has been a special makeups and collaborations — and there’s no shortage of when the wearer “pumped” it up using popular choice for boutiques, you need A-game partners, including retailers Patta, Nicekicks.com, Solebox the iconic basketball-shaped button on to go over the top for a birthday bash. and David Z, which will carry the upcoming limited-edition Ronnie the tongue. Players Dominique Wilkins Fleg shoes. The Gel-Lyte III also is enshrined in the “Guinness World and Dee Brown wore signature models Records” — well, sort of. To help celebrate Asics’ 60th anniversary in games, but the style soon exploded last fall, the brand unveiled an 11-by-15-ft. Lite Brite display that Air Jord a n IV beyond basketball. Soon Pump shoes used more than 300,000 pegs to capture the shoe’s brightly colored, ollowing on the footsteps of the very 1990s-appropriate contours. massive Jordan III, the bar was set F high for the 1989 Jordan IV — the first shoe in the series to be distributed overseas. The Jordan IV featured overmolded mesh on the upper and a new closure designed to keep t has become one of the brand’s flagship dress on the 574.) And after a period where the wearer’s ankle even more stable. Die- styles, but New Balance’s 574 model was the shoe was consistently available but was hard franchise fan Spike Lee had a special New I originally created as a takedown. In 1988, largely left to its own successful devices, this fondness for this edition: Mars Blackmon the company decided to take its super-popular year, New Balance decided to show its best- again went to work pitching the shoe in 576 runner and design a more accessible, loved style some attention with a limited- Lee’s famous “Can/Can’t” commercial, and Balance more affordable version, that kept many of the edition, tiered 574 update program. With more in his own 1989 film, “Do the Right Thing,” same features. (Very many, in fact — the 574 technical materials (Schoeller fabrics, high-end Lee made the Jordan IV — or as character was made with leftover parts from the 576.) nylons, suedes and metallic leathers) on the Buggin Out says, “my brand-new white Instantly recognizable, the style was soon one uppers and new technology for the interior Air Jordan’s I just bought” — a key image. 574 of the brand’s all-time best sellers, especially in makeups, the refreshed styles in the Premium (One of the movie’s more enduring scenes the gray colorways that came to characterize 574 collection were released this summer to a is when Buggin Out cleans the sneaks after the brand. (A sign of just how influential this handful of A-list locations. (A core program of they were run over by an errant, gentrifying unassuming gray trainer has suede 574s and an ultra-limited made-in-the- cyclist.) The 1999 retro of the shoe reportedly become? New Balance USA 574Clips line are always coming out for sold out in hours — one of the fastest sellouts has gone after Louis the seasons.) And while several colorways will the brand had ever seen and a testament to Vuitton for copyright be available, New Balance is putting its bets the shoe’s enduring appeal. infringement this — and its promotional dollars — on the classic season claiming gray on gray. the French luxury retailer released an all- gray runner called the Minstrel that violates its trade

17 s skating grew and developed, so did the shoe market catering to it — and in 1976, the skate world saw the A launch of Vans’ Era shoe, a simple laceup designed with feedback from skate legends Stacy Peralty, Tony Alva and Jay Adams. The Era took elements from the Vans company’s deck- shoe roots and translated them into a simple, effortless style. Popular in the 1980s with BMXers and consistently popular with casual wearers — even those who never get near a board or bike — for its laid-back, streamlined styles, the Era has continued to be a best-seller in the Vans line, with versions for men, women and children available in a huge range of patterns, materials and colors.

When it comes to kicks, it seems THAT everything old is new SWEEPSTAKES again. That means that some of today’s leading sneaker companies are looking back at their classic designs for Pick Your Favorite Classic inspiration for today’s retro-inspired styles. How have ASICS, FILA and K-SWISS fast-forwarded their iconic sneakers into Vote Now for a Chance to Win These 3 New Classic Kicks the 21st century? Here’s the lowdown.

Go to Footwearnews.com/classickicks to see the top 25 classic sneakers of all time as selected by the editors of Footwear News. Vote on your favorite — as well as your top pick among three of today’s new classics — and you’ll be entered to win a super-cool JanSport Vote every day from October 26 to Sole Pack filled with pairs of today’s classics December 6 and you’ll be entered for a from K-Swiss, Asics and Fila. chance to win every time you vote.

19 BRAND spotlight BRAND spotlight

Resurrecting the Tiger asics may be one of the largest sporting goods manufacturers materials including mesh, nylon and suede and incorporating what was The Mexico 66, part of the Onitsuka in the world, but ASICS remains loyal to its humble roots, considered cutting-edge footwear technology in the 1980s. Tiger collection, was one of the first dating back to 1949. It was then that Founder Kihachiro Asics models to sport the brand’s Onitsuka began sewing shoes in his living room, creating “We have kept the Mexico and Ultimate models as part of our core base famous tiger stripes. it because they are truly classics,” said Monahan. “They never really go out Japan’s first sports shoe company, Onitsuka Co. Ltd. His innovative Onitsuka Tiger (O.T.) sneaker collections later led the company to evolve of style and that is reflected in our sales.” into a major global force in athletic footwear. Under the Onitsuka label there are two collections: true In 1977, Onitsuka Co. Ltd. merged with two other sporting goods firms, heritage product and styles that are GTO and Jelenk. The resulting company was named ASICS, an acronym modified to meet current derived from Anima Sana In Corpore Sano, a Latin phrase that stands for needs. According to “A Sound Mind in a Sound Body,” and Onitsuka was named president. Monahan, “We Despite the name change, the brand’s heritage lives on, largely through have the authentic the 2001 resurrection of the Onitsuka Tiger brand. models and then we create entirely 2009 “At that time, there was a trend toward authentic, classic product, and new styling that is ASICS America did not have a category or collection that addressed that trend-relevant.” market opportunity,” said Jim Monahan, VP of footwear at ASICS. “We wanted to create something that was simple and allowed for many And we haven’t seen fashion applications, but also celebrated our heritage.” the last of these new classics, according to ASICS, which has stated that there are many more “Tigers” waiting to be unleashed. The Onitsuka Tiger revival focused on three specific models: the Nippon 60, the Mexico 66 and the Ultimate 81. The Nippon 60, originally designed as a prototype to be worn by athletes in the 1960 Rome Urban Appeal Olympics, features a white stripe and the Japanese rising sun on its While ASICS has a nationwide — and global — presence, the majority of the sides. On the Mexico 66, which was made famous during the 1968 Onitsuka Tiger brand’s business is centered on major metropolitan cities like Olympics, the rising sun is replaced with ASICS’ now-famous tiger New York and Los Angeles, noted Monahan. “We refer to our core consumer stripes. And the Ultimate 81 is a classic 1981 running shoe mixing

20 showing nosignsof slowing down. sought-after,highly fashionable brand that is specifically, hasgainedmomentum asa As aresult, theOnitsuka Tiger product, that play on those stages.” SXSW,” saidMonahan. “Weoutfit thebands Coachella, theWinter MusicConference and found ournicheinmusicfestivals like tastemakers or influencers, andwehave “We market toward whowecallthe through tie-inswiththemusicworld. and promoting andapparel their shoes musiciansandexclusive collectorsDJ’s, shoe grassroots approach, targeting underground To reach that consumer, O.T. hastaken a is constantly as theurban stylist,” 22 2009 evolving. he said , ademographic that

celebrate itslegacy. the board, thebrand willalso continue to sneaker introduced sixyears ago.Andacross California 78,alightweight,vintage running the upcoming season, withplansto revive the O.T. isalsoat looking true classicsgoinginto basketball shoe.“ flattering on the foot than your typical profile, still vulcanized, but muchmore isaslimmerproduct “It look. withalower adaptation of thetraditional classicbasketball Monahan, but thisparticular style isan The basketball trend isstill alive, said inspiredcalled theCoolidge, by basketball. of O.T.’s newest classicstyles isasilhouette has room for another true sport One shoe. providing qualityproduct for athletes always Of course, thebrand that wasbuilton Fashion F Meets BRAND spo BRAND unction t t ligh separates usfrom others intheindustry.” marketplace. Italsousauthenticity gives and it iswhat makes ourproduct uniqueinthe said Monahan. “We dothisoften because materials found throughout Japaneseculture,” seasonal collections that feature unique product invarious ways, suchasoffering “We still apply ourJapaneseroots to our

1966

2009 admit, itispretty The store banging. does sharp product to showcased. be Imust little setup to showcase product whenthere’s London gentlemen’s shop. We’ve got anice Villanuev in-store tribute to theTop Kicks? 25Classic FN: businessman. dude to your artist to your consummate gamut withconsumer different andforward that enough werun the American public.The stuff wedoisgenerally a great oldbrand re-introduced being to the Lakai to meislike agreat company. Warrior is that have come out inthelast four years, but stuff. I’mnot suchafan of alot of theshoes aesthetic. And Lakai isputting out really dope Alife footwear becauseIreally dolove the Villanuev the future? the potential to achieve classicstatus in FN: what they needandwhat weneed. relationships strong andhelpthemout with of shops worldwide andwelike to keep the need. We are networked into group agood to whocanget thedudes thestuff you what’s goingto work. Then, reaching out matter of andunderstanding thinkingahead only goingto work for sixmonths. It’sa accept that your standard strategy isreally that the market isconstantly and changing have to knowyour customer, understand economy, aswellsome other factors. You year basedtastes on people’s andthe Villanuev hard-to-find kicks? buying strategy giventhat Alife in specializes FN: Alife’s manager ofoperations. edition” kicks, saidJesse Villanueva, internationally sourced, limited- City’s first boutique hard-to-find,for it was“New Yorkits in2001, doors When the Alife Rivington Club opened Alife WhatAlife plansdoes have for an What newbrands doyou thinkhave How wouldyou describe your sourcing/ a: a: a: Ourstore isset uplike anold Ourstrategy every changes I’m definitely going to say with Jesse Villanueva s

— from your street

was aNike Court. All my first memory isn’t evenChuck Taylor. It decided Ididn’t even like them.Soit’sfunny; them for meandIput themon at home and really wanted Myparents those shoes. got at really theDadelandmallandbeing bad.I to tell anybody, throwing atemper tantrum Courts.All AndIremember, assadthisis a pairof white andWimbledon-blue Nike pair from whenIwas4years old.They were Villanuev on you? remember owningor havinganimpact FN: was wearing Supras. and Jay-Z put Supras on their feet, thehood who iswearing what. Assoon asLilWayne personalities. Now it’sperformers dictating athletes, theyall used to have theirownlittle this generation what Jordan wasto mine.The literally didJordan numbers.gonnato He’s be or even like Kanye West’s release. That shoe her stamp on or decidedto collaborate on, buying are retro items that anartist put his/ toward. Most that of theshoes peopleare of theretro stuff that peopleare gravitating driven, andIthinkthat’s inlinewithsome becoming athlete-driven less andmore artist- it iscrazy, but you’re starting to notice it’s Villanuev huge. Isthisstill thecase? on thesneaker industry inthepast hasbeen FN: have answers… about saidproduct. You have questions? We have peopleinterested infindingout more product andputting itinapositionthat will a beautiful jobof framing the andhighlighting What’s thefirst pair of sneakers you The impact of celebrities andathletes a: a: RETAER spo IL Iactually remember my first There isstill so muchimpact t t ligh

23 Q&A BRAND spotlight BRAND spotlight The F-13 was Fila’s first shoe to become a phenomenon in the USA and put the brand on the map in footwear. a c la s s i c g i n f p o r m

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filabrand attributes its long history of style and sold 2 million pairs of F-13s in the U.S. alone in 2006 , making it their THIS innovation to both its Italian heritage and its athletic biggest classic shoe ever in terms of volume. expertise. Founded as an Italian textile company in 1911, FILA made its sportswear debut in 1973, launching its first collection with tennis pro Hook Me Up Bjorn Borg. Both Borg and FILA’s F-box logo became instant sensations on the court. Much of the appeal of the F-13 is in its simplicity, with its basic, classic colors and clean lines, noted Epstein. That doesn’t mean the brand Rest assured, however, FILA is not just tennis. It has since introduced hasn’t added some bells and whistles to meet the demands of its footwear and apparel in a variety of categories, including running, alpine growing consumer base. skiing and golf. The brand has also caught on beyond the athletic world, worn by celebrities and trendsetters who are drawn to FILA’s classic “We have always played with the colors and materials to make it styling. Particularly popular is the F-13, which debuted in 1985. interesting for the urban and suburban kids who are interested in hip-hop culture and want to hook the shoe up with their clothing,” “The F-13 was our first shoe to become a phenomenon in theU .S .. It noted Epstein. was the shoe that put us on the map,” said Jon Epstein, president of FILA USA. With its leather upper and adjustable ankle strap, the F-13 was In fact, many of FILA’s classic shoes, such as the F-13, hook up with a “stylemaker,” he added. some of the brand’s original apparel items. FILA was the first brand to introduce the velour warm-up suit, for example, and still sells it today as Originally targeting a young urban consumer, the silhouette quickly a hook-up option for the F-13 and original fitness and tennis shoes. transcended that demographic to appeal to a variety of markets. FILA

24 BRAND spotlight RETAILER spotlight

Concepts with Frank Rivera

Concepts Brand Manager Frank Rivera has fond memories of the week that 250 sneakerheads camped outside his 2009 Boston store to purchase the Lobster,

a collaborative shoe from Concepts A and Nike Skateboarding. In June 2009, another 100 people slept outside for

the follow-up edition, the Blue Lobster. & “Through special packaging and viral marketing, we redefined the way any product in our market was promoted,”

said Rivera. In fact, Concepts has been Q redefining the boutique sneaker market since 1996. Below, Rivera, a.k.a. “Frank the Butcher,” talks about the evolution of his store.

FN: Tell us about Concepts’ history and how it came to be a standalone store in 2008.

Rivera: The Tannery, our umbrella store, has “This is a statement group of products that design director of footwear. “The shoe is a including the mainstream shades of black and been around since the mid-1970s. In 1996, the back half of the store was converted into all tie together under a common theme,” one-piece patent-leather upper with printed white and new, trend-driven combinations like history, so I think it will be really cool. Concepts, a melting pot of action sports, end of year, but we’re always adding things in said Epstein. treatments that hint at the pattern people gray with lime pops and a black, white and lifestyle sneakers, outerwear and premium mid-season. We want to constantly represent FN: What is the first pair of sneakers you know and love, with a little spin on it,” silver design. “We think this will be one of the denim, and the first store to assemble so something fresh for our customers. That’s a big part of what makes the shoe a remember owning? he said. biggest sellers because the trend is headed many products and genres under one roof. hit among celebrities and hip-hop icons like It was a response to what was happening in FN: What are some of the new brands that in that direction,” said Epstein. “Black-based Rivera: Michael Jordan’s third sneaker, Raekwon from the Wu-Tang Clan and Nas, Inspired by the 1980s retro movement, the the marketplace and a blueprint for lifestyle have the potential to achieve classic status in high-tops are really moving at retail.” the Air Jordan III. It rolled around in 1988, boutiques today. In 2008, we decided it was the future? he added. “We get a lot of respect from the Digital F-13 conveys an “old-school video- and it was something really big for me. I time to have an independent store where we people who are the trendsetters.” game aesthetic,” added Eggert. Its lines are Indeed, FILA’s past may be the key to its Rivera: One brand in particular that I’m wore them until they fell apart. That shoe could represent what we wanted without the printed rather than sewn, as in the original future as the brand prepares to celebrate its really feeling is called Gourmet, out of LA and made me believe that a shoe can really limitations of being in the back As consumers look to those trendsetters run by three industry veterans. They came mean something. You might not have all shoe, and its graphic print highlights FILA’s 100th anniversary in 2011. of The Tannery. for inspiration, the F-13 has become a hit together to create this company that puts a the money in the world, but you have legendary flag design. It is the latest stage in something that means something to you nationwide. The most popular colors: FILA’s “It is interesting to be able to show how a FN: What is your buying strategy and how modern spin on classic silhouettes. Gourmet the evolution of FILA’s classic F-13, following is top-notch quality. In 10 years, people will and your friends — it lifts your spirits. I still classic white, navy and red. classic shoe has grown up into a mature, often do you bring in new product? the successful Vulc-13. This style features be replicating their shoes. That’s when a have class photos with my Air Jordans on. iconic product,” said Epstein. I’d share the picture, but I’m not too proud the same classic upper as the F-13 with Rivera: The strategy has changed over the classic is a classic — when people recreate of my haircut back then. Digital Edition a vulcanized rubber outsole, a perforated years. It used to be that some stores had the what you’ve done. toe box, a padded tongue and collar and a foresight to see that certain products were Set to launch in November 2009 is a modern more limited than others. They stocked up on FN: What plans do you have for an in-store breathable mesh lining. It caters, said Epstein, interpretation of that old classic. The Digital sneakers they knew would become rare and tribute to the Top 25 Classic Sneakers? to “the consumer who wants a classic, black desirable. Companies now realize there’s a F-13 will maintain the classic F-13 silhouette Rivera: Presenting the classic kicks among high-cut but likes the idea of a bottom that market for sneaker collectors, so limited runs — with its mid-cut style and signature Velcro our great displays will get a lot of attention. mimics some of the skate brands.” are done on purpose. At Concepts, we don’t It will also be an education for many young strap along the top — but with different just buy product because a company tells us consumers who come in and see this display treatments, explained Mark Eggert, FILA’s The Digital F-13 is available in four colorways, this is the new rare shoe. We make sure it has with older, classic sneakers — it can spark value to us and it makes sense. We restock some good conversation. We have a very seasonally, with three seasons toward the knowledgeable staff that can explain the 26 27 BRAND spotlight BRAND spotlight The K-Swiss Classic – a true innovation in 1966 and still k-swiss loved by millions today. First to Market

2009

halo,” said Nichols. But the real brand loyalty “was always rooted in the product itself, the simplicity and attention to detail.”

the story of K-Swiss were a fairy tale, it might begin Since the Classic’s 1966 debut, K-Swiss keeps it fresh. In 2000 –2001, this way: Once upon a time, tennis shoes were made they launched the Classic LX, an interpretation of the original shoe, but of canvas. Then two brothers, avid tennis players from with a slightly thicker outsole, wider stripe and a shorter toe vamp that iF Switzerland, moved to California, the land of playful complemented the baggy jean trend of the early part of this decade. innovation. Canvas, they observed, didn’t provide much support and it wasn’t very durable. What if the shoe was made of leather instead? Always at the forefront of advances in technology — as well as changes The rest, as they say, is history. in fashion — K-Swiss evolves shoe design and function. The original Classic had a thick heavy rubber sole, but the Remastered Classic, which From the moment the first leather tennis shoe, the K-Swiss Classic, launched this year, has a lighter and more flexible sole. It’s still made of debuted at Wimbledon in 1966, the style has been a staple on and rubber, but it’s sculpted out and has EVA and polyurethane mixtures in off the court. But the use of leather, while critical, wasn’t the only the footbed. High-quality leather still defines the shoes, but now they’re innovation that made a difference. lined with different materials. “Externally, it looks like the original shoe, but it’s out-of-the-box comfortable now,” said Nichols. According to David Nichols, executive vice president at the Westlake Village, Calif.-based manufacturer, it was also the design. “The three- Nichols reported that for 2010, K-Swiss is reaching even deeper into piece toe construction was intended to have virtually no seams so it its archives and relaunching “The Vintage California.“ “Before the didn’t cause blisters. It was also a very efficient shoe to make because classic leather K-Swiss tennis shoe, the brothers made it in a bunch of there were a limited number of pieces.” other materials like suit fabrics and other different cloths. We made a collection from these that we refer to as the Vintage Classic. They’re These innovations certainly made the Classic appealing to professional deconstructed and we’re very excited about the line.” tennis players and to the manufacturer, but the style’s popularity extended far beyond that. “The shoe first caught on with elite tennis The company will also branch out into shoes for skaters. Nichols’ skater players and the country club set, which gave it this kind of aspirational pals in California told him and his colleagues that they grew up skating

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BRAND spotlight RETAILER spotlight

SPORTIE LA with Isack Fadlon in K-Swiss even though it really wasn’t a It wasn’t long after opening its doors emblem that people recognize. We’re starting skate shoe. This heritage led the company in 1985 that Sportie LA established to see a resurgence that will continue when they release the LA Lights later this year. to make more direct inroads and develop a itself as a major footwear destination on Los Angeles’ Melrose Avenue. pro model shoe with Greg Lutzka, a world- FN: How much of an impact do celebrities have A renowned skater. Today, the family-owned store has in driving the sneaker trends we see at retail? locations in Los Angeles, Sherman K-Swiss’ distribution strategy is as Oaks and San Diego — and a loyal Fadlon: I think the impact was a lot more & straightforward as its designs. “We aim to following of sneaker fans that return prevalent 10, even five years ago. There have been some issues with overreaching — too be exclusive, but accessible,” said Nichols. for both popular styles and hidden gems. “This is an exciting field to be many brands were approaching celebrities for “We pick and choose our partners and in,” said Partner Isack Fadlon. Below, endorsements, and consequently, they became make sure they can sell our products at the Q he talks about trends, strategies and watered down. What we have seen over the years is that some celebrities would endorse a best margins. One way we go about that is iconic sneakers. art. They have respect for the sneaker as an not selling to everybody. We want to be a product on paper, but they would not actually art form, whether that is from an artistic wear the product, thus showing that they did competitive advantage for the retailers who FN: Your stores specialize in hard-to-find styles, rendering on the sneaker itself or from the not believe in it. Customers are very savvy, and exclusive silhouettes and the latest models. artistic look of the shoe — both are viewed work with us.” when they do find a celebrity who believes in What’s your sourcing/buying strategy? as art. the product and wears it because he or she “With certain styles, we also work to control Fadlon: Our strategy is to not have a specific actually likes it, that still has a true impact. FN: What is the first pair of sneakers you the supply by limiting the quantity we make strategy. It mirrors our personality — we like remember owning? FN: What plans do you have for an in-store and the time they’re available. We do that a lot of things and we have a somewhat tribute to the Top 25 Classic Sneakers? Fadlon: The Adidas Kareem Abdul-Jabbar in now with the Classic. It’s a kind of less-is- insatiable appetite, which means that we go to shows or to prospective vendors and if we white with off-white stripes. I don’t know if it more thing.” Fadlon: In the flagship store on Melrose like something, we just jump in. We’ve found was my first pair, but it was the first to have Avenue, we have what we call our lounge in that having a broad range attracts a really great an impact on me. I remember the smell of In the more than 40 years since the original the back of our Vault. The Vault is considered customer base. Throughout the years, our the leather and the big smile on my face after Classic was launched, many things have the gallery/museum area. Every month or so, customers have come in and expected a large, opening the box. I also remember the first pair a vendor comes in and takes over the lounge changed for K-Swiss, such as the successful almost dizzying selection, so I think we have to of shoes we sold in the store in 1985 — a pair and creates a story. For instance, Nike did the introduction of performance running and stay our course. of Reebok Freestyle high-tops. They came in a history of Air, and Puma just did the Monster multitude of colors: banana-yellow, bright-pink, fitness footwear and apparel, but some things Pack display. We will fill that space with a FN: What new brands have the potential to orange, you name it. That’s another classic remain the same no matter what. “Every tribute to the classic sneakers and provide a achieve classic status in the future? silhouette that has been around forever and year, the Classic represents the iconic shoe museum-type setting. A lot of people feel that has seen quite a resurgence. of our business,“ said Nichols. “It’s still the 1969 Fadlon: One fairly new, popular brand is sneakers, while they are utilitarian, are also signature of our company and will forever be Creative Recreation. They have established the symbol.” themselves in the classic category, especially with the Cesario, which has a Velcro strap in the front. I think that silhouette will survive a while. Two brands that aren’t new but are re-issuing old styles are PF Flyers and L.A. Gear. PF Flyers’ classic, Center, is reminiscent of the Converse All-Star—one of the most iconic shoes ever. There are people who remember wearing P.F. Flyers when they were kids, and they have picked up with the younger consumer as well, whether they have read about it and developed an affinity or just love that classic, sleek, clean feel. With L.A. Gear, we are seeing very limited distribution of the classic KAJ and Fire from the “Unstoppable” line, with that cool, wavy

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