Northern Honshū (Tōhoku) POP 9.2 MILLION

Home , Akebono (train), Akita Airport, Akita Bank, Akita Castle, Akita Expressway, Akita Prefecture

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Why Go? Aizu-Wakamatsu ...... 5 ‘The rough sea, stretching out towards Sado, the Milky Way.’ Matsuo Bashō, The Narrow Road to the Deep North Bandai Plateau ...... 8 (1689) Sendai ...... 11 In the days of Matsuo Bashō, the famous travelling poet, Hiraizumi ...... 21 a trip to northern Honshū was synonymous with walking to Tōno ...... 23 the ends of the Earth. Tōhoku (東北; literally ‘northeast’) is Morioka ...... 26 still very much the rugged north, a land of hulking volcanic massifs and remote hot springs, of ancient folk beliefs and Aomori ...... 29 unique customs born of centuries of isolation. Hirosaki ...... 35 In a sense, nothing has changed, and yet everything has Tazawa-ko ...... 38 changed. In 2011, an enormous earthquake and tsunami (see Kakunodate ...... 41 p7 ) destroyed a long stretch of coastline. The recovery effort, Akita ...... 43 happening at both government and grassroots levels, faces enormous challenges. This shouldn’t stop you from visiting. Dewa Sanzan ...... 46 The vast majority of northern Honshū was spared signifi- Zaō Onsen ...... 50 cant damage and remains as attractive as ever to those seek- Sado-ga-shima ...... 54 ing, as Bashō was, an off-the-beaten-track adventure.

Best Onsen When to Go  Tsuru-no-yu Onsen (p 44 ) Aomori °C/°F Te m p Rainfall inches/mm  Aoni Onsen (p41) 40/104 16/400  Sukayu Onsen (p 35 ) 30/86 12/300  Za ō Onsen (p56) 20/68  8/200 Naruko Onsen (p20) 10/50 4/100 0/32

-10/14 0 Best Hikes J FDNOSAJJMAM  Dewa Sanzan (p51) Dec—Feb Sibe- Jun—Aug Mild Sep—Oct A  Hakk ōda-san (p34 ) rian cold, but summers come to brief but intense  Akita Komaga-take (p43 ) great skiing and life with spirited autumn is marked  Iwaki-san (p40) yukimiburo (snow festivals and by spectacular viewing from an magnificent displays of foli-  Oirase-gawa (p 35 ) onsen). greenery. age. 3 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) HIGHLIGHTS ’s , ū Dewa

ō , in the , , just like like just , , the , ū , Honsh , (mountain (mountain Shimokita valley, the valley, Onsen no hoku) hoku) ō ō hoku’s legendary legendary hoku’s t Onsen ō T Following the Following Exploring Exploring Dodging ice- Dodging Reliving the glory Reliving Soaking your your Soaking Making a Traipsing around Traipsing Cycling through through Cycling one Experiencing Getting away from from Getting away ō Sado-ga-shima ū ō Yamadera Hiraizumi footsteps of the of footsteps yamabushi the through ascetics) of peaks sacred Sanzan the apocalyptic the apocalyptic Ozore- of landscape on the san Peninsula covered trees known known trees covered at monsters’ ‘ice as Za of Buddhist 11th-century on earth paradise worries away at rustic at rustic away worries Ny the to pilgrimage temples mountaintop of the poet Bash mountains above above mountains Tazawa-ko largest crater lake crater largest land that time forgot the verdant shores of of shores the verdant Towada-ko the of T festivals, like the like festivals, in Matsuri Tanabata Sendai the mainland crush on a former island of island of a former exile 9 a 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Northern Honsh (T Highlights 1 45 TŸno Line wan Expwy Ayukawa Line Onagawa Main Line JR TŸhoku Hachinohe JR Yamada Kesennuma Ishinomaki- Haramachi Tono Valley Ishinomaki Morioka Iwaki Kitakami Sea of 4 JR Kamaishi IWATE

(HokkaidŸ)

Mutsu Noheji Expwy Hanamaki

To Tomakomai;

Iwanuma Hachinohe Kashima-nada PREFECTURE TŸhoku Fukushima One Towada Ninohe Hitachi (Fukushima Dai-Ichi) wan HakkŸda-san Towada- Noheji- Ichinoseki Hachimantai National Park Sendai Hiraizumi MIYAGI Ny¥tŸ 49 Onsen Furukawa ZaŸ-san Matsushima Fukushima City Yokote Daigo Mutsu-wan Towada-ko

Peninsula Shimokita Mito KŸriyama

FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE wan PREFECTURE ±ma Naruko (2038m) O¥-sanmyaku ±magari Iwate-san Aomori- Aomori Aomori Airport Hirosaki Kazuno 13 Kakunodate JR ±u Kuroiso To Yonezawa KaikyŸ ±date Tsugaru Mashiko Bandai-san (1819m)

ZaŸ Onsen Line Hakodate Main Line

Akita Yamadera Utsunomiya ShinjŸ

7 Expwy (2236m) AKITA HonjŸ 4 ChŸkai-san TOCHIGI Yamagata Inawashiro-ko

Tajima Akita Shinkansen Akita (1625m) AOMORI Iwaki-san Aizu-kŸgen PREFECTURE PREFECTURE Tsuruoka Seikan Akita Tunnel Nagai PREFECTURE Dewa Tsugaru Airport 7 Kitakata Sanzan Peninsula Goshogawara AKITA YAMAGATA Onsen PREFECTURE Bandai-Asahi National Park NikkŸ Noshiro Yunokami Oga Kisakata Sakata HokkaidŸ Oga Peninsula Bandai Plateau 49 Shibata Ozenuma-kŸ Kan Etsu Expwy Aizu-Wakamatsu NIIGATA Maebashi Numata PREFECTURE To Otaru; Tobi-shima (HokkaidŸ) Murakami Tomakomai Niigata Airport SanjŸ Naeba Awa-shima GALA Yuzawa o f S e a Niigata Muikamachi Nagaoka J a p a n Line JŸetsu 00 25 miles 50 km GUNMA Yuzawa Echigo- O C E A N

P A C I F I C PREFECTURE Sado Straits Sado Naeba Kashiwazaki RyŸtsu KŸgen (2145m) Sado-ga-shima MyŸko Akadomari

陸 . ( ō hoku hoku ō as as ina- the the ﬆ ﬆ 十和田八 Towada- ﬀ , but with shinkansen al roads al roads ( Shirakami– ﬆ ination) for ination) for , though fa- , exibility exibility hoku to the Sea ū ﬆ ﬂ ō unning vi ﬆ (bullet train) line trav- shinkansen and Yamagata Yamagata and hoku hoku ) is a primeval beech for- ō ) runs 180km along the Pa- 180km along ) runs -kaigan National Park National -kaigan ū ) is a vast wilderness area of) is a vast wilderness shinkansen hoku main line runs roughly the the roughly runs line main hoku ed in romaji, and well-main- ed in romaji, ō shinkansen 白神山地 hoku hoku ﬆ ō ( Rikuch Getting There & Around

The UNESCO–protected Further north, the 855-sq-km Further The The JR T ected by winter weather. ff erence. There are some some are There erence. sanchi One of border. est, also on the Akita–Aomori Asia,the last of its kind in East it harbours a number of protected species, such as the Asiatic eagle. black bear and the golden 幡平国立公園 lakes volcanic peaks, crater beech forests, straddles Akita andand alpine plateaus that Aomori Prefectures. Hachimantai National Park National Hachimantai 中海岸国立公園 to Prefecture Iwate in from Kuji cific coast Prefecture. It is char- in Miyagi Kesennuma and, crashing waves acterized sheer cliffs, by beaches. deep inletsto the south, and rocky branches run through central T same route as the T of Japan coast. CAR & MOTORCYCLE Exploration of the more remote parts of T is possible with local train and minor bus connections, but car rental is preferable. Be advised, however, that roads can be severely a TRAIN The JR T 8 and to the north to the and of Dewa peaks holy by the Sanzan. The Akita regular local and express trains, and only as far as Morioka, after which private lines take A over. combination of JR and private lines run along the east and west coasts. els as far as Aomori. From there, limited-express and local trains run further north to Hokkaid ff ) is the c is much lighter here than in central Honsh than in central here c is much lighter information centre (or call ahead to your de your to ahead call (or centre information HOKU shu Fujiwara shu Fujiwara ffi ﬆ Ō Ō Bandai-Asahi Na- is a great region to get around by car. You’ll have more more have You’ll car. by around get to region is a great ū 磐梯朝日国立公園 ablished public transportation routes allow, and you can even get o get even can and you allow, routes ablished public transportation hoku tends to be seen fromhoku tends to be seen ( ﬆ ō road conditions; road closures caused by snow are not uncommon. not are snow by caused closures road conditions; road ﬆ hoku’s influence. hoku’s plain fun. Towada-ko (p 33 ) and Tazawa-ko (p 38 ) also make for wonderfully wonderfully for make ) also 38 (p Tazawa-ko ) and 33 (p Towada-ko plain fun. ō hoku has a solid network of expressways, signpo expressways, of network hoku has a solid ROAD-TRIPPING T ROAD-TRIPPING ﬆ ō In particular, Shimokita Peninsula (p 34 ) and Sado-ga-shima (p 54 ) are two de two ) are 54 (p ) and Sado-ga-shima 34 (p Shimokita Peninsula In particular, T the late cilities are often few and far between. If you’re travelling between November and April, April, and November between travelling If you’re between. and far few often are cilities touri check in with a nearby grid entirely. grid entirely. all the di make can a car having tions where winding coa and driving those linger, to the freedom want you’ll where here is ju drives. scenic than the e Northern Honsh tained prefectural roads. Tra roads. tained prefectural In the 11th century, the the 11th In century, Though T hoku has been populated since at least the since been populated hoku has mon period, but first entered historicalfirst entered but mon period, ō ō Sprawling over Fukushima, Niigata and over Fukushima, Sprawling Prefectures, Yamagata National National Parks tional Park the outside as a cohesive region, there arethe outside as a cohesive within the area. Blessed historic differences the coast along thewith rich alluvial plains, agricultural became an centre Sea of Japan supplying rice to the imperial capital and, from up more influence as a result, picked was less productive on the Farming Kyoto. wind-bat- and the coast rocky, side, Pacific resulting in a to navigate, tered and difficult strong culture of perseverance born of hardship and isolation. records when, in the 8th century, the newly 8th when, in the records century, enlisted government in Nara formed central Emishi the indigenous generals to subjugate the mid-9thpeople. By century the land, ‘the (literally as Michinoku then known land under beyondroads’) was, if only tenuously, imperial control. clan established a short-livedat settlement in its that was said to rival Kyoto Hiraizumi it was Date Masamune, opulence. However in the 17th who would bring lasting century, trans- notoriety to the region. Masamune of Sendai intoformed the fishing village the capital of a powerful de- His domain. Restoration Meiji scendents ruled until the system, and anbrought an end to the feudal end to T J History T third-largest protected area in Japan at third-largest protected area in Japan 1,870-sq-km. The region is defined to the south by the Bandai-Azuma mountain range

Ū (TŌHOKU) HONSH HISTORYŪ (TŌHOKU) HIGHLIGHTS NORTHERN HONSH 4 5 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE , 8am- h Sazae- MEMORIAL

Byakko- ū 24-9170; 33 24-9170; exible exible .co.jp/e/ ﬂ % HISTORIC BUILDING HISTORIC ﬆ ; tells the story 8.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, Apr-Oct, 8.30am-5pm ern Honsh ﬆ h hoku, plus Niigata plus Niigata hoku, (www.jrea 22-3163; admission ¥400; admission 22-3163; ō 28-2525; Innai Higashiyama- ations. The pass is only The pass ations. % ﬆ % 白虎隊記念館 ( ; ers unlimited rail travel travel rail unlimited ers ; Pass

ﬀ sits among sprawling grounds sits among sprawling ﬆ ve or 10 consecutive days. days. consecutive or 10 ve ō ﬁ On the eastern edge of the city is On the eastern edge of the city ) The reconstruction towering 1965 JR Ea JR EAST PASS EAST JR pass)o さざえ堂 ﬆ (

ea and ea Tokyo around The (including all of T of (including all than the cheaper It’s and Nagano). four for good and JR Pass full days, or days, Passes can be purchased in Japan at Japan in be purchased can Passes or at and Haneda airports Narita both major JR train on a holders passport foreign for valid will need to you visa; visitor temporary when you and visa passport your show that this pass Note the pass. purchase JR buses. on travel cover not does At the foot of the mountain, the On the way down, don’t miss the On the way 8:15am-sunset Apr-Oct, 9am-sunset Nov-Mar) 9am-sunset Apr-Oct, 8:15am-sunset ō 会津武家屋敷飯盛山 Bentenshita, Ikki-machi; admission ¥400; ¥400; Ikki-machi; admission Bentenshita, of Tsuruga-j moat and some re- framed by the original castle walls. Inside, maining ruins of the old historical artefactsthere is a museum with real and daily life, though the from battle is the terrific view from the 5th-floordraw also an evocative, 400-year- There’s lookout. old tea house that was rescued from the and destruction by a local family, castle’s returned here in 1990. tai Kinenkan tai a rare 18th-century (that has wooden hall nothing to do with the White Tigers). It has a fabulous spiral staircase that, Escher- esque, allows you to walk up and down without retracing your steps. Iimori-yama, the mountain where the White can opt Tiger samurai killed themselves. You an escalator or walk to the top to visitto take There are also some creepy oldtheir graves. monuments here, gifted by the former fas- in honour cist regimes of Germany and Italy, and bravery. loyalty of the samurai’s 5pm Apr-Nov, 9am-4pm Dec-Mar) Apr-Nov, 5pm 4.30pm) Aizu Bukeyashiki Aizu Bukeyashiki ( h Iimori-yama Iimori-yama ( d of the dramatic suicides and houses the personal possessions of the departed samurai. machi; admission ¥850; machi; admission CASTLE Byak- 8.30am- te-machi; Ō h 会津若松 gunate against the 27-4005; 27-4005; ), Japan’s third- ), Japan’s ō % 福島県

ō ri, in particular, has a number of ri, in particular, ō ; Crane Castle; Castle; ; Crane (White Tigers). This group of teenage Sights shin Civil War of 1868, when the clan sid- shin Civil War hoku. Here the mountains that characterise the mountains hoku. Here ō ō 鶴ヶ城 FUKUSHIMA FUKUSHIMA old-fashioned shops selling local crafts.old-fashioned shops selling Aizu are a and there is also famous for its sake number of breweries around town that do tours, and tastings, too. Tsuruga-j ( 1 The ar- main sights in Aizu are conveniently ranged in a ring around the fringes of downtown, and a surprising amount of English it easy to getsignage makes around on foot. Bus the retro Classic Town Alternatively, loops around the city. imperial faction. The fall of Aizu is famous on account of the throughout Japan kotai seppuku (ritual suicide samurai committed Tsu- by disembowelment) when they saw it reality, In ruga Castle shrouded in smoke. was the surrounding area that was ablaze, and it would be weeks before defeat would the White Tigers emerged as a be final. Yet powerful and fraternity. symbol of loyalty ed with the Tokugawa sh ed with the Tokugawa Aizu-Wakamatsu was once the capital of the Aizu-Wakamatsu Aizu clan, a reign that came to an end in the B History Aizu-Wakamatsu is a pilgrimage spot for is a pilgrimage Aizu-Wakamatsu history a former feudal capi- buffs, Japanese city, a sprawling tal with a story to tell. It’s downtown area, where the but the really, up its historysights are, plays well. Nanoka- machi-d Aizu-Wakamatsu Aizu-Wakamatsu 0242 / POP 125,000 museum & tea house admission ¥500; ¥500; admission house & tea museum Fukushima-ken ( Fukushima-ken largest prefecture,largest serves to gateway as the T and the north this far, begin to pick up. Come behind; the trippers day you’ve left the Tokyo at- terrain of the Bandai Plateau wild, varied on deeper explo-tracts and skiiers keen hikers of the fewration. Outside the largest of cities, developmentcapital Fukushima, which is the top cultural attraction is sparse. Fukushima’s – a is the medieval capital of Aizu-Wakamatsu disturbing,town with a dramatic, and past. PREFECTURE

$ $$ $$ 11am- ri and mochi ō h JAPANESE JAPANESE steamed JAPANESE JAPANESE A former 22-6111; www ) Takino offers Takino % BUSINESS HOTEL HOTEL BUSINESS 会津若松郵 ; ( pv machi; skewers from from machi; skewers Alternatively, head Alternatively, Ō ri; look for the tall, Rooms here were Rooms here ō ) wappa-meshi, ATM 8.45-7pm Mon-Fri, h wappa meshi,wappa ; (bath) and an attractive din- an attractive and (bath) (tasting course; ¥1150 for (egg noodles). ūō pniW su 25-0808; www.takino.jp/frame.html; 25-0808; www.takino.jp/frame.html; ō 27-1345; 1-1-25 1-1-25 27-1345; One of the most famous places to men % bamboo skewers of tofu, bamboo skewers ) ri, take the second left the ri, take and the res- o-furo % ā ō 10am-5pm, closed 1st & 3rd Wed of each of Wed & 3rd 1st closed 10am-5pm, ; r ; h Eating pv ; 1-2-17 Ch ; 1-2-17 Information

Takino Takino 満田屋会津若松ワシントンホテル田季野 (pounded rice cake) or vegetables(pounded rice cake) basted in sweet over charcoal. miso paste and baked point at what you want, or go for the Just c dengaku Nanoko- west down Walking 7 skewers). machi-d taurant is just around the corner; look for the black banners out front. several crab and versions including salmon, a picture menu. Din- wild mushroom; there’s ing is on tatami mats under polished wooden east on Nanoko-machi-d beams. Head turn right at the first light; go left at the sec- and you’ll ivy-cov- see an old, ond alleyway, it. ered farm house on the right – that’s bean-paste mill that dates from 1834, this is an Aizu landmark. Thehere is speciality dengaku, pleasant pleasant ing area framed by hardwood furnishings. hardwood framed by ing area Aizu Bukeyashiki east of the located just It’s along the continue from there, bus stop; just and it’s leftroad, turn post office at the left.behind, on the month & every Wed Jan-Mar; Wed month & every 5-31 Sakae-machi; wappa meshi from ¥1420; ¥1420; from meshi wappa Sakae-machi; 5-31 .aizu-wh.com; 201 Byakko-machi; s/d from from s/d Byakko-machi; 201 .aizu-wh.com; ¥8159/14,333; Aizu Wakamatsu Post Office Post Wakamatsu Aizu o ( 8 5 Aizu is famous for Kitakata for someon over to neighbouring serious Mitsutaya ( 便局 Aizu Wakamatsu Aizu Wakamatsu Hotel Washington ( fish or vegetables over rice, prepared in a tree bark, whichround container made from adds a woody fragrance. 9pm; ¥120; ¥120; recently updated and are fairly priced forrecently updated and are privacy The seekers. hotel is a convenient east the station’s three-minute walk from exit along Byakkotai-d beige building. try the sublime

; $ $ ō ō MUSEUM PARADES HOSTEL HOSTEL MINSHUKU MINSHUKU This Japa- ) (villa) of Saig (villa) This three-day 55-1020; www.aizu 55-1020; % 8.30am-5pm Apr-Nov, Apr-Nov, 8.30am-5pm pni ; This a superb re- is , accompanied by a This museum that ) h ō yashiki 26-0031; 8-7 Higashi-sakae- 8-7 26-0031; p % ; 26-6299; www.naf.co.jp/takaku; 26-6299; www.naf.co.jp/takaku; gen (p67) % ō ; ; Autumn ; Autumn Festival) K ō k Onsen (p 56 ) 56 Onsen (p One of the best budget options in ō ō )

Sleeping Festivals & Events My G A L A Y u z a w a ( p 6 5 ) Za Naeba (p66) ) Tazawa-ko (p 41

     BEST SKIING BEST 民宿多賀来会津秋祭り会津酒造歴史館会津野ユースホステル dm/s ¥3800/4600, with YHA discount ¥3200/4000; ¥3200/4000; discount YHA with ¥3800/4600, dm/s no.com; 88 Kaki-yashiki, Terasaki, Aizu-Takada-ch Terasaki, 88 Kaki-yashiki, no.com; nese-style inn offers modest tatami rooms, a inn offers nese-style the region, Aizuno thrives amidst a pleas- the congestion of far from ant rural setting The centre. spick-and-span hostel with Aizu’s about 20 min- rooms is located Western-style station along utes by foot from Aizu-Takada (¥230, line from Aizu-Wakamatsu the Tadami 20 minutes). If you don’t want to walk, call ahead for pickup from Aizu-Takada. 104 Innai Higashiyama-machi; r per person without/ r per person Innai Higashiyama-machi; 104 ¥4200/6300; with 2 meals Minshuku Takaku Takaku Minshuku ( pni ( 4 Hostel Aizuno Youth

( z Aizu Aki Matsuri ( Aizu Sake Brewing Museum Museum Brewing Aizu Sake 9am-4.30pm Nov-Mar; Nov-Mar; 9am-4.30pm festival culminates on 23 September with an procession that threads throughextravagant to Tsuruga-j the city drum-and-fife band, a children’s parade and drum-and-fife band, a children’s an evening lantern parade. construction of the Tanomo, the Aizu clan’s chief retainer. Wan- chief retainer. the Aizu clan’s Tanomo, which include ader through the 38 rooms, a tea-ceremonyguestroom for the Aizu lord, judge and a house, quarters for the clan’s here in full,rice-cleaning mill presented noisy working order. machi; admission ¥300; machi; admission 9.30am-4.30pm Dec-Mar) 9.30am-4.30pm depicts process shares the sake-making can You brewery. space with a real working in the giftsample the house tipple shop at the end.

Ū (TŌHOKU) FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 6 7 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE line, line, er, er, ern ō devas- ic ones ic ones ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ Japan Japan developed developed ion mark. ion mark. ﬆ ﬆ ne. However, However, ne. .org) an inde- .org) ﬆ the ea fi ﬆ ff que ﬆ and lea accommodations are are accommodations ruck o ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ ected communities and, and, communities ected ), or Great Ea or Great ), airs and returning to life as to life and returning airs ff coa ve years, more reali more years, ve (www.safeca fi ﬆ ort, see p 16 . 16 p see ort, ﬆ ff ever recorded in the world. How- in the world. recorded ever al routes; we’ve given alternate bus alternate given we’ve al routes; of JR line closures see http://www. see JR line closures of essary rep ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ , or aim for something new? Miyagi Miyagi new? something or aim for , ation is now more apparent in what is apparent more ation is now 東日本大震災 ﬆ ﬆ ort, the city is booming. Matsushima, Matsushima, is booming. the city ort, ff part, the rubble has been cleared, though the rubble has been cleared, part, er, among the poore er, ion is, where? Given the risk of future future the risk of Given where? ion is, ronge ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ ained some damage but is now but is now damage ained some 20 minutes later that brought the mo the brought that later minutes 20 travellers, this is the bigge travellers, ve ﬆ ﬆ , 58km from the capital city of Fukushima (and Fukushima of city the capital 58km from , fi ﬆ ﬆ ruction e , su but the downtown looks unchanged; in fact, as the in fact, unchanged; looks but the downtown imates put recovery at put recovery imates making the nec ﬆ ﬆ ion. The ion. deva ﬆ ﬆ inations are open and accessible. Sendai, the capital the capital Sendai, open and accessible. inations are ﬆ ions being raised within the a ions being raised . For the mo For . inations, like the island of Kinkasan, are not yet ready for for ready yet not are Kinkasan, the island of like inations, ﬆ land populated with nothing but knee-high grass. but knee-high grass. with nothing land populated ﬆ ﬆ ic e ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ de ion since Chernobyl. A 20km exclusion zone remains around around remains zone exclusion 20km A Chernobyl. since ﬆ powerful quake to hit Japan since record-keeping began in in began record-keeping since Japan hit to quake powerful line even be rebuilt at all? Smaller, more nimble communities nimble communities more at all? Smaller, be rebuilt line even ﬆ ruction workers; if you’re planning to explore this area, make make this area, explore to planning if you’re ruction workers; ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ inations. For an updated li an updated For inations. ﬆ ory for the areas in Miyagi and Iwate Prefectures where the tsu- where Prefectures and Iwate in Miyagi the areas ory for of Iwate Prefecture, see www.sanrikutetsudou.com. see Prefecture, Iwate of ﬆ ﬆ al communities and bringing the death toll to nearly 20,000. nearly to toll the death and bringing al communities ﬆ . Optimi . ﬆ nd it harder to reach consensus, and thus harder to move on. move to and thus harder consensus, reach to nd it harder ﬆ pass/index.html. For closures along the private Sanriku Tetsud Sanriku along the private closures For pass/index.html. fi ﬆ erent erent s, s, ff ﬆ ected de ected ff hoku. The Higashi-Nihon Dai-Shinsai ( Dai-Shinsai Higashi-Nihon The hoku. lled with con fi ō -the-beaten track de track -the-beaten hoku’s major touri hoku’s ff ō ark – were quick to rebound, ark – were .co.jp/e/ea of T of s outside the zone as well. For mo For as well. the zone s outside ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ Be aware that in some smaller towns along the northea smaller towns that in some Be aware Rail travel remains suspending along some coa along some suspending remains travel Rail For information on volunteering to help the recovery e help the recovery to on volunteering information For And then, should rebuilding duplicate the pa duplicate should rebuilding And then, It is time to begin rebuilding, but the que but the rebuilding, begin It is time to some o some visitors. Others, like Ishinomaki and Oku-Matsushima, fall somewhere in between; it’s it’s in between; somewhere fall Ishinomaki and Oku-Matsushima, like Others, visitors. there. get to a little harder work to have but you’ll visit, to possible routes for e for routes jrea the coa which serves routinely ahead. call to sure the famous bay further up the coa further up bay the famous coa the mo was Earthquake, ju followed that the tsunami it was ever, coa levelling tation, the recon of headquarters de facto Japan. all over degree, a certain to Ca Safe by compiled look at the maps to idea a good It’s data from been uploading who have counters with Geiger volunteers of pendent group in mind Keep in the area. levels contamination of an idea get to the country, around short- by encountered those outweigh far residents long-term by faced that the risks travellers. term the early 20th century, and among the century, 20th the early on the coa hit hard was Miyagi, of put it at 10 to 15 years – at lea 15 years to put it at 10 something is a push for there generation among the younger Especially in the country. or the peo- the government and who should decide, that look like, But what would new. que the kind of are These ple? The Fukushima Que plant power nuclear Dai-ichi the Fukushima and tsunami, the earthquake Following disa 7 nuclear in a Level resulting reactors, its of three in meltdown experienced be the wor to considered the plant, which is located on the coa which is located the plant, what to do with it remains a que do with it remains what to should the coa tsunami, with ones, Larger further inland. and rebuild pull up their roots to simply opted have intere diverse the disa before were, Prefectures and Iwate contamination radioactive that clear it has become however, Sendai); 80km from exi The Road to Recovery – and the line the tsunami by but spared the earthquake by damaged that were Areas was All of T coa of swaths large missing: Travelling in the Region THEGREAT EAST JAPANEARTHQUAKE earthquake 9.0 a magnitude 2011 March on 11 (JST) 2.46pm At nami hit the harde usual. It is a di usual.

ﬆ WALKING ne Bandai- ), the ), fi ; scal- inaniwa inaniwa 米沢牛きりたん磐梯朝日国立公ホタテ ( ( ( 磐梯高原 ū , the little Fuku- , ; 1819m), a once- ( men gen. ā ō hotate r 磐梯山 kiritanpo ( Yonezawa-gy at wheat noodles topped with topped noodles at wheat fl ), ), The area’s most popular walk fol- The area’s ) ). Another Akita Another specialty ). is of what you’ve got. got. what you’ve of ﬆ Activities famous dish, dish, famous Bandai-san c to the Sea of Japan, Aomori Prefec- Aomori Japan, of the Sea c to ) and attracts hikers, climbers, fishing hikers, ) and attracts ﬆ fi 五色沼 lows a 3.7km nature trail around a dozen or lows a 3.7km so pools known collectively as the Five Col- deposits from the erup- ours Lakes. Mineral tion imparted various hues to the waters - cobalt blue, emerald green, reddish brown - that change depending on the weather. 園 enthusiasts, skiers and snowboarders with its spectacular scenery and vast potential the centrefor independent exploration. In is 2 Goshiki-numa ( side the train station and does a slow loop of the main sights. Bicycle rental is available at several points around town for ¥500 per day; enquire at the Tourist Information Center. Bandai Plateau 0241 / POP 4000 Thepart Bandai Plateau is of the Park Asahi National dormant volcano that erupted suddenly in 1888, spewing forth a tremendous amount lowered the said to have of debris that’s height by 600m. The of the force mountain’s eruption destroyed dozens of villages and completely rearranged the landscape, re- plateau now sulting in the vast lake-dotted known as Bandai-k ; sea urchin roe) and roe) urchin ; sea ; じゃじゃめん (

うにきりたんぽ鍋 ( ( ) runs uni Ban- kaisoku jaja-men on the JR ) connects 33-0688; 33-0688; e and ground meat. When it comes to to When it comes meat. e and ground % ﬆ retches from the Paci from retches ) and まちなか周遊バス ( kaisoku ﬆ ( runs hourly be- hourly runs 東北自動車道 kiritanpo-nabe ma, at the tip of the Shimokita Peninsula, is said to have the the have to is said the Shimokita Peninsula, at the tip of ma, ( Ō ; cow tongue), grilled over charcoal and served with a side of tail side of with a and served charcoal over grilled tongue), ; cow riyama, while the ), thinner-than-usual wheat noodles. wheat thinner-than-usual ), ō riyama (¥7970, hours). 1¼ 磐越自動車道 ō hoku traditions do). For good times, there’s there’s times, good For do). hoku traditions line that わんこそば ( ō ﬆ ( 牛タン s and, when it doesn’t, making the mo making doesn’t, when it s and, shinkansen 22-1877, main office 22-5454) In office In 22-5454) main 22-1877, hoku is about simple pleasures: the bounty of the land and sea where and where sea the land and of the bounty pleasures: about simple hoku is ( ﬆ ō % ( -tan 稲庭うどん hoku hoku Classic Town Bus Town Classic ū ( ō

hoku Expressway hoku With a coa With Morioka is all about noodles: There’s the all-you-can-eat noodle extravaganza that is noodle extravaganza all-you-can-eat the There’s is all about noodles: Morioka You can’t leave Akita without sampling its mo its Akita without sampling leave can’t You Gy ō ) – kneaded rice wrapped around bamboo spits and then barbecued over a charcoal a charcoal over then barbecued and spits bamboo around wrapped rice ) – kneaded Getting Around Getting Getting There & Away

re. More often than not it’s served in a chicken and soy-sauce broth with vegetables to to with vegetables broth and soy-sauce in a chicken served it’s than not often More re. T

tuna in the country. lops). The village of of The village lops). ture is known for fresh seafood like like seafood fresh for is known ture shima town of Kitakata punches above its weight. its above punches Kitakata of shima town sliced cucumber, miso pa miso cucumber, sliced wanko-soba udon make a hotpot called called a hotpot make ぽ ﬁ premium grade beef of Yonezawa. Yonezawa. of beef grade premium soup, is much loved by Sendai locals. Apparently the tradition derived from hard times times hard from derived the tradition Apparently locals. Sendai by is much loved soup, T many (as so THE DELICACIES OF THE DEEP NORTH Eating in T exi when it riyama is connected to Aizu-Wakamatsu riyama and Aizu-Wakamatsu. and riyama 9am-5.30pm) Helpful staff and English There are a couple of daily ō ō between and Tokyo K K front of the train station. Tourist Information Center maps; inside the JR station.

Ban-etsu and Shin-etsu lines between Aizu- Wakamatsu and Niigata (¥2210, 2¾ hours); you’ll need to change trains at Niitsu. 8 The retro The JR T TRAIN

CAR & MOTORCYCLE T h e 8 BUS Highway buses connect Aizu-Wakamatsu and (¥4800,Tokyo 4½ hours). h 9am-5pm Sat On & Sun) the main street; has an ATM. international Police Box Expresswayetsu single/day pass ¥200/500) departs from out- by the JR Banetsu-saisen line; hourly K tween and Tokyo K (rapid) trains (¥1110, hours) 1¼ ply this scenic route.

Ū (TŌHOKU) FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 8 9 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE $ HOSTEL HOSTEL One of ) sage 32-2811; http:// piW ﬆ % hoku in 1689, is hoku in 1689, ō ; but his collection but his collection May-Oct; May-Oct; The Records of a found success as a success found h ō raw sandals at my feet.’ at my sandals raw (1644–94) is credited with el- is credited (1644–94) (short riddles), intended to bring to intended riddles), (short ō ﬆ (1685) an Sleeping ō k English signage is sufficient, and there is sufficient, English signage 裏磐梯ユースホステル the region’s classic mountaineering insti- classic mountaineering the region’s supremely located tutions, this hostel is next to the Goshiki-numatrailhead, a seven-minute walk from the Goshiki-numa Choose bus stop (there are signs). Iriguchi one of the dorm rooms for a social atmosphere, grab a camping spot if you want to rough it or share a romantic cabin in the half. woods with your better 4 Hostel Youth Urabandai ( are a number of restaurants on the premis- of restaurants on the are a number for rental is also available equipment es. Full The are located in the slopes ¥3900 per day. town. During the ski hills above Inawashiro buses run between season, frequent shuttle Station and the resort. Inawashiro mediate. Wide slopes, a slow-speed lift a slow-speed slopes, Wide mediate. and this resort make crowds par- weekday scant ticularly and families to novice skiers suited veterans Seasoned children. with small may of options, with the lack grow bored quickly worth out that the sig- pointing though it’s diamond run is a 1.5 kilometre-nature black nationalthat frequently stages long chute competitions. homepage3.nifty.com/urabandai/indexe.html; homepage3.nifty.com/urabandai/indexe.html; 2 meals dm without/with ¥1000, from camping ¥3000/4500; discount YHA ¥3600/5100, from ¥5000; from cabin a kind of spare, lonely beauty. spare, a kind of

裏 ener. gen ( sabi, ﬆ -dai ō HIKING hoku detailing his journey throughout T throughout his journey detailing ō ō decided to give his career away in favour of trav- of in favour away his career give decided to ō gen. After ō to Kyoto, and then to Edo, Bash Edo, and then to Kyoto, to The Records Satchel, of a Travel-Worn Happ ﬆ er of haiku, Matsuo Bash Matsuo haiku, er of r fi ﬆ and SKIING & SNOWBOARDING & SKIING (trail map) at the uenced by the natural philosophy of the Chinese Taoi the Chinese of philosophy the natural by uenced fl Ō 0242-62-5100; www.g-jmt. 0242-62-5100; Account of Exposure to the Fields ash of insight in the li ash of , % fl ō The original ski area on ; atus from comic relief to Zen-infused enlightenment. Zen-infused to relief comic atus from Ura-Bandai Tozan-guchi Ura-Bandai ﬆ ) is the easiest to reach by public) is the easiest to reach by was also in also was was born into a samurai family, and served the feudal lord Yoshitada into his his into Yoshitada lord the feudal and served family, a samurai born into was famous. tozan mappu tozan ō ō ﬆ Dec-Mar) Bandai-san can be climbed in a Bandai-san ), the shortest, most popular route. ) h When he reached his 40s, Bash his 40s, When he reached Bash Matsuo Matsuo Bash ma Japan’s as Regarded Bash published poet, but ultimately found the acclaim to be spiritually unsettling. He eventu- be spiritually unsettling. to the acclaim found but ultimately published poet, compari- In fact, on his work. had a deep impact and the philosophy Zen, ally turned to Zen his haiku and been made between have sons poetic his own he developed Later uncritically. nature examine to and began Chuangzi, of on the concept drawing principle by about a sudden as with nature and commune build friendships to seeking Japan, elling throughout including his travels, of accounts He published evocative he went. Skeleton Weather-Beaten The Narrow Road to the Deep North, the mo late teenage years. Moving Moving years. teenage late evating its its evating MATSUO BASH MATSUO head, shade on my a traveller’s is gone, year ‘Another There the at located trailheads are 八方台猪苗代スキー場磐梯山 Bandai-san, Inawashiro has 16 runs, all Bandai-san, Inawashiro and inter- of which are beginner but two Inawashiro Ski Park Ski Park Inawashiro ( ( Bandai-san Bandai-san com/inawashiro/eng/index.php; 1-day lift ticket lift ticket 1-day com/inawashiro/eng/index.php; ¥4400; 磐梯登山口 transportation – and the most challenging Inawashi- at seven From hours up and back. a bus to Bandai-k ro Station take day with an early start, with an early and the viewday from in the surrounding mountainthe top takes Lake to the south. ranges and Inawashiro There The are six trails up the mountain. one from the the path meetsa climb through ski grounds, up with the one starting from ( Pick up a note that thetourist information centre; to summit is only accessible from mid-May late-October. Goshiki-numa Iriguchi and Bandai-k Goshiki-numa Iriguchi bus stops, the main transport the main bus stops, on the hubs This is serviced route Hibara-ko. edge of by that departbuses town of Inawa- from the April, the Goshiki-numa trail may shiro. In and No- snow, in packed still be covered the startvember marks long T of the winter.

1 2 3 ‚

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18 17 15 13 18 R 16 19 14 # 20 ÿ \ # Inawashiro # › û ï Tourist Information Center...... (see 14) Ura-Bandai Visitors Center...... (see 7) ï Classic Town Bus ...... (see 19) Stop.... Bus 7) (see Iriguchi Goshiki-numa ú (1819m) share their local knowledge and help guests arrange their visit. With flowered wallpa- per and sloping ceilings reminiscent of at- rooms here tic bedrooms, the Western-style a countryhave home feel – with the added bonus of an onsen (hot springs) bath. Ask about family rates. #

11 Naga- hama e Inawashiro-ko Bandai-san

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4 6

12 10 Hotel ...... D2 ÿ Museum ...... A1 Ø Sazae-dō ...... (see 3) Sazae-dō ...... (see Bandai Plateau & Around æ アン・イングリッシュ・イン 1

3 Bandai Plateau & Around 2 ( An English Inn Inn An English nese couple run this pension in Inawashiro, nese couple run this pension in Inawashiro, for the slopes. They’reconvenient happy to 0101; http://aei.inawasiro.com; 3449-84 Osada, 3449-84 Osada, http://aei.inawasiro.com; 0101; with 1/2 meals r per person Higashi-Nakamaru; ¥6500/8700; from

Ū (TŌHOKU) FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 10 11 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) MIYAGI PREFECTURE (do- hoku. ō ō daimy hoku, Sendai ishoku, ō wore on his helmet. ō daimy 仙台 ivals, which number among which number among ivals, ﬆ Sights Sendai’s downtown lies far enough in- lies far enough downtown Sendai’s 1 on foot, though It is possible to tour the city to burn a fair amount of shoe have you’d you leather to hit all the sights. Alternatively, a spin on the Looplecan take tourist bus. land to have been spared by the 2011 tsuna- been spared by the 2011 land to have with the best night- as lively as ever, mi; it’s life you’ll find up in the north. good With transportation connections, a Sendai makes base for exploring some of theconvenient and neighbour- more scenic areas of Miyagi ing prefectures. History of a ‘thousand Sendai or the city genera- by Date Masamune tions’ was established in 1600. A ruthless, ambitious then turned Sendai, main lord), Masamune feudal capital thata fishing village, into a controlled trade routes, salt supplies and grain milling throughout much of T Sendai Sendai 022 / POP 1,060,000 most com- largest and being the Despite in T city vibrant mercially fairly compact tree-lined with well-ordered, streets a ruined castle. Japanese that front with its samu- associate the city are quick to Date, and namely Masamune rai benefactor, one of Ja- Matsuri, its spectacular Tanabata famous festivals. most pan’s The Date family ruled the Sendai-han until Restoration brought an end to the the Meiji presence can Masamune’s feudal era. Yet west Stadium’s still be felt: the roof of Miyagi stand is modelled after the unique crescent symbol that the 0242-62-2048; 0242-62-2048; 裏磐梯ビジター % 697 Kengamine, Kengamine, 697 ( ( − run along the JR Ban- ) is something of a tran- Matsuri (p 47 ) Stunning acrobatics47 Matsuri are performed (p with towering bamboo ō kaisoku 宮城県 gen stop (¥870, 30 minutes). 32-2850; 1093 32-2850; ō elaborate, and raucous, in the country. While every town has its signature signature has its town While every in the country. and raucous, elaborate, ﬆ 9am-5pm Wed-Mon to Apr-Nov, % ; . Its capital, Sendai, boasts excel- h ū hoku is known throughout Japan for its traditional fe traditional its for Japan throughout hoku is known Aomori Nebuta Matsuri (p 32 ) LocalAomori artists Nebuta32 outdo Matsuri themselves (p to create elaborate Akita Kant Sendai Tanabata Matsuri (p 15 ) ThousandsSendai of15 coloured Tanabata Matsuristreamers (p around downtown

Getting There & Away Information

ō    the mo plan need to You’ll miss. to not ‘big three’ the are these or three), two, (or celebration months in solidly is booked that accommodation ensure crowds though: huge ahead advance. T TOHOKU’S FAMOUS FESTIVALS FAMOUS TOHOKU’S poles hung with lanterns. floats andmerrymakers take to the streets in throngs. honour a tale of star-crossed lovers. 8.30am-5pm) the left To outside Inawashiro Station. Center Visitors Ura-Bandai センター sition zone between the rural hinterlandssition zone between of the far north and the massive urban development much of central that typifies Honsh lent tourist infrastructure, culinary unique of cultural and plenty attractions offerings to boot. Of course, if you want to escape the urban trappings and get back to the you up this brought nature that most likely then don’t waters of miss the healing way, a worthy Onsen and Matsushima, Naruko most beau- contender for the title of Japan’s tiful bay. MIYAGI PREFECTURE MIYAGI ( Miyagi-ken TRAIN Several express BUS From outside Inawashiro Station, frequent buses depart from stop 3 for the Goshiki-numa Iriguchi stop (¥750, 25 minutes), before heading on to Bandai-kthe h 8 Tourist Information Center 8 Hibara; Hibara; 4pm Dec-Mar) Near the Goshiki-numa Iriguchi Iriguchi Goshiki-numa the Near Dec-Mar) 4pm trailhead. etsu-saisen line (¥480, 30 minutes) between Inawashiro. and Aizu-Wakamatsu hanto ±-shima Karukawa- (HokkaidŸ) Kinkasan To Tomakomai Rikuzen-takata Kamiwari-zaki Motoyoshi 45 Sumita Shizugawa-wan

Onagawa-wan

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Line k JR Ishinomaki To Nagoya

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S atop the summit of a tree-covered hill by destroyed Built in 1637, the Hirose-gawa. by Allied bombing during WWII, and eventually reconstructed in 1979, the present building is an exact replica of the original. faithful to the ornate and sumptuous It’s

T Maeyachi

Matsushima- wan JR Line Denen

Furukawa a JR Senseki Sendai-wan Tsukidate Sendai Airport 47 kaigan Sendai

-tŸ Shiogama IWATE

TagajŸ Kurihar Matsushima ine 6 TagajŸ Sendai’s Sendai’s 4 e Matsushima- JŸban L Iwanuma Watari PREFECTURE JR Rik¥Lin HISTORIC BUILDING HISTORIC Taiwa Izumi 9am-4.30pm Feb- 9am-4.30pm Naruko Onsen Kakuda Naruko Marumori

JR Senzan Line h Shinkansen

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-den Mausoleum -den Mausoleum ±u TendŸ JR ō 13

Yamadera JR Rik¥-tŸ Lin Rik¥-tŸ JR Obanazawa ShinjŸ YAMAGATA PREFECTURE Yamagata 瑞鳳殿 Aoba-ku; admission ¥550; ¥550; admission Aoba-ku; ( Zuih Nov, to 4pm Dec & Jan; & 4pm Dec to Nov,

largest tourist drawcard is the mausoleum largest tourist drawcard which sits majestically of Date Masamune, Miyagi Prefecture Miyagi

Ū (TŌHOKU) MIYAGI PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 12 13 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) MIYAGI PREFECTURE

ō LIBRARY

; ee & ﬀ ofs. kura ation, ation, WINTER FESTIVAL WINTER 9am-10pm, gal- 9am-10pm, ﬆ . Find it one . ation. tile ro h one ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ ; www.smt.city.send- er of pretty pretty er of ﬆ ores. While each is While each ores. e. Look for the wood- for Look e. ﬆ sh broth that makes that makes sh broth 22-0091; 7745 Ippongi-ue; Ippongi-ue; 22-0091; 7745 ﬆ ﬁ er walls and er walls facilities, like galleries galleries like facilities, % ﬆ 大和川酒蔵北方風土館 ; ( ﬆ

Housed in an award-winning Housed ri has a clu outside the train the train outside ; 2854 Minami-machi; co ō ﬆ On 14 January men brave sub- men brave January On 14 ation for ¥500 per day. ¥500 per day. ation for ) for noodles begins: Kitakata begins: Kitakata noodles for , ju ﬆ 豆◯ 源来軒 . ﬆ ( ( obsession. Kitakata’s signature signature Kitakata’s obsession.

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that dates to 1790 and, until twenty until twenty and, 1790 to that dates ructed between the late 18th and 18th and the late between ructed ﬆ Festivals & Events , this cultural hub includes a library, art , this cultural hub includes a library, Sendai Mediatheque Mediatheque Sendai ﬆ kura ō kura kura どんと祭せんだいメディアテーク Toy galleries and event space; check the website when you’re is going on to see if anything in town. structure designed by Japanese architect It structure designed by Japanese zero weather to don loin-cloths and pray forzero weather to don loin-cloths and pray good fortune for the new year. lery hours vary) lery hours z Donto-sai ( F ( ai.jp; 2-1 Kasuga-machi, Aoba-ku; Aoba-ku; Kasuga-machi, ai.jp; 2-1 prehensive account of the samurai’s epic prehensive account of the samurai’s life, as well as more than 13,000 artefacts There are plen- loaned from the Date family. of explanations in English, too. Interest- ty was ingly enough, although Masamune blind in one eye, which earned him the he is near- Dragon’, nickname the ‘One-Eyed depictedly always in his portraits as having eyes! two orehouse, is now a cafe that serves sweets sweets that serves a cafe is now orehouse, , the que , , con ﬀ ﬆ , 8.30am-5pm) is the mo ō reet from the from reet Genraiken If kura Mamemaru h ation, with a red facade and a queue. facade with a red ation, ﬆ (

ﬆ CASTLE MUSEUM as it is for its its as it is for Built on of the of to peak inside a peak to men , once a miso a miso once , ā ﬆ r Loople stop 5) stop Loople Loople stop 6, 6, stop Loople g g shops in town, in town, shops orehouses leaves o leaves orehouses ﬆ 喜多方 Ato Ato Minami’) men ō ā for for 10am-4pm) 10am-7.30pm Wed-Mon) 10am-7.30pm r Ato; Ato; Yamatogawa Sake Brewing Museum (Green Leaves Castle), (Green Leaves 9am-4.30pm) ﬆ ō h h ō h orehouse)’. orehouse)’. ation alone. Some have been turned into touri been turned into have Some ation alone. ﬆ ; Sendai-shi Hakubutsukan; Hakubutsukan; ; Sendai-shi ﬆ as famous for its its for as famous ﬆ ; Sendai-j Tourist Information Center Information Tourist of the museum and across the river, Otazukikura-d the river, across and the museum of 9am-4.45pm Tue-Sun; Tue-Sun; 9am-4.45pm ﬆ that are a draw for photographers. photographers. for a draw that are h Kitakata can be reached from Aizu-Wakamatsu by frequent trains along the JR Ban- along the trains frequent by Aizu-Wakamatsu from be reached can Kitakata The Of the 100-plus Of the 100-plus Where the que Where There are literally thousands of these these of thousands literally are There Ea Step inside the Step can provide English maps. English provide can Kitakata. Aizu and 121 runs between Rte drivers, For 25 minutes). line (¥320, etsu-saisen the across available are rentals Bicycle block north and one block ea block north and one block (like ice cream and pudding) spiked with the fermented bean pa bean with the fermented spiked and pudding) cream ice (like – miso-coloured – yes, yellow en sign on the pale noodles are thick and curly, and served up in a hearty pork and up in a hearty and served thick and curly, are noodles use of local spring water, soy sauce and sake. Delicious. and sake. sauce soy spring water, local of use bowls from ¥600; from bowls dessert set ¥600; set dessert KITAKATA at lea he has built unless a man man is not ‘A goes: saying An old Kitakata (mud-walled (mud-walled 4716 Teramachi; Teramachi; 4716 years ago, functioned as a sake brewery. It’s a 15-minute walk north of the of north walk a 15-minute It’s brewery. functioned as a sake ago, years is now ju is now early 20th centuries, scattered around the area; there are dozens within walking dis- within walking dozens are there the area; around scattered centuries, 20th early the of tance kura unique, they share a few common elements, such as thick pla such as thick elements, common a few share they unique, and souvenir shops; others house ordinary businesses, like drug drug like businesses, ordinary house others shops; and souvenir 225-3074; 26 Kawauchi, Aoba-ku; admision Aoba-ku; 26 Kawauchi, 225-3074; 仙台市博物館仙台城跡 also called Aoba-j Giant, moss- still looms large over the city. covered walls, as imposing as they are impressive, are still intact and the grounds There’s sweeping views over the city. offer also a larger-than-life statue of Masamune on horseback. Aoba-yama in 1602 by Date Masamune, and Aoba-yama in 1602 by Date Masamune, destroyed during Allied bombing, Sendai-j % Sendai City Museum City Museum Sendai ( Sendai Castle Ruins Ruins Castle Sendai ( Momoyama style: a complex, interlocking style: Momoyama architecture, characterised by multicoloured woodcarvings. Also atop the hill are second the mausoleums of Masamune’s and and third successors, Date Tadamune Date Tsunamune. regular bus stop ‘Sendai J ‘Sendai bus stop regular you’re interested in learning more about you’re a com- museum offers the city Masamune, ¥400; ¥400; $ 1 1 2 3 4 1 0 # 11 11 2 LIGHTS 19 # › e in 11 11 n L HOSTEL JR se ri and T n MUSIC LIVE 17 oh Ho ōku ō #ï 1 1 # #ï ò n anse 1 5 hink #þ u S 1 Tōhok D D # › 3 # ÿ 1 21 7 ōri 18 #

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Ū (TŌHOKU) MIYAGI PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH

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, ) $$ $$ ūō $$$ As its ) HOTEL HOTEL niW RYOKAN RYOKAN 268-2525; % BUSINESS HOTEL HOTEL BUSINESS 711-4111; www. 711-4111; niW ; % 01.html; 4-2-6 Ch ; h

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If you’re not intimidated by If you’re R ) ; Tōhoku Bus Center...... D2 nW R , Aoba-ku; s/d ¥12,705/23,100; ¥12,705/23,100; s/d Aoba-ku; , Toyota West Bus Terminal...... D2 Maruzen...... D1 Travel...... C2 IACE CenterInformation ...... D2 City Sendai Centre...... A2International Sendai Plaza View ...... D2 Bus Stop 34...... D2 J Entertainment Shopping Information Transport ūō

17 15 21 13 18 16 19 14 20 相崎旅館ホテルメトロポリタン仙台ホテルセントラル仙台 Loople ...... (see 21) Loople ...... (see ý Club Shaft...... (see 10) þ ï ï For comfort you can’t and convenience, For is part which beat the Metropolitan, of the Sendai Station complex. Rooms here are smart, well appointed and comfortably plush. hotel-central.co.jp/08englis cramped spaces, this budget inn offers cramped spaces, this budget inn offers and West- simple yet functional Japanese- and modern rooms with clean ern-style shared furnishings; cheaper rooms have also within easy walking facilities. It’s distance of the station. Aisaki is one block look for the over from the main post office; down a narrow sign indicating the entrance side street. name implies, Hotel Central Sendai is lo- Central name implies, Hotel cated smack dab in central Sendai, just two blocks west of Sendai Station. While fairly a standard as far as business hotels go, it’s good choice for privacy and a much seekers, more famous cheaper alternative to Sendai’s brand-name accommodation options. Aisaki Ryokan Ryokan Aisaki ( Sendai Metropolitan Hotel ( Hotel Central Sendai Sendai Central Hotel ( www.s-metro.stbl.co.jp/english/index.html; 1-1-1 1-1-1 www.s-metro.stbl.co.jp/english/index.html; Ch Aoba-ku; s/d from ¥7140/12,600; ¥7140/12,600; from s/d Aoba-ku; .com; 5-6 Kitame-machi, Aoba-ku; s/tw ¥3990 Aoba-ku; 5-6 Kitame-machi, .com; /7350;

) $ $$ nW (¥180, HOSTEL HOSTEL ō RYOKAN RYOKAN 222-6329; % ; manages to feel ō ri, Aoba-ku; r per per- Aoba-ku; ri, ō 222-7885; www.ikoisouryo 222-7885; uins...... A3 R %

; ō subway station. subway For budget digs within walk- For ō ) yokan...... C3

niW hoku line, from where it’s a six-minute hoku line, from where it’s Gallo...... B1 Gengo Chaya...... Gengo A2 Hosoya ...... B1 Jiraiya ...... B1 Hotel Central SendaiCentral ...... Hotel D2 SendaiMetropolitan Hotel ...... D2 Tasuke...... B1 Aji Zuihō-den Mausoleum...... Zuihō-den B4 Aisaki Sendai Castle Sendai MuseumCity ...... Sendai A3 Mediatheque Sendai ...... B1 1 ō 7 5 2 3 Sleeping 8 Drinking Eating Sights 9 6 4

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ú ÿ æ Central Sendai 晩翠亭いこい荘仙台千登勢ユースホステル kan.co.jp; 1-8-31 Kimachi-d 1-8-31 kan.co.jp; ¥4725/7350; from 2 meals without/with son www.jyh.or.jp/yhguide/touhoku/sendai/index.html; www.jyh.or.jp/yhguide/touhoku/sendai/index.html; discount YHA dm ¥3855, Aoba-ku; Odawara, 6-3-8 ¥3255; Bansuitei Ikois Bansuitei ( Sendai Chitose Youth Hostel Hostel Youth Chitose Sendai ( has cosy Japanese-style rooms, genial man- has cosy Japanese-style rental, free internetagers, bike a fantas- and in. Its only draw- tic old cedar bath to soak south of the city quite a way back is that it’s centre. TheTaishid closest station is eight minutes from Sendai Station), on the JR T walk; ask for a map at the station or print one from the website. ing distance of the city centre, this hosteling distance of the city rooms in a residen- has snug Japanese-style the tial area north of the train station. From east exit walk straight through the bus pool a leftand make on the main road, walking 15 minutes until you see a drug store, then a leftmake followed by the second right onto a narrow street. One of the fewtraditional inns remaining in central Sendai, Ikois peaceful even within walking distance of downtown. The tatami rooms are spotless and the owners are friendly and accommo- a seven-minute from the walk dating. It’s Kita-yoban-ch , ō $$ BAR (plum IZAKAYA IZAKAYA ū hoku’s largest hoku’s umesh 7pm-2am, closed 7pm-2am, ō , this tiny base- , this tiny h ō , or rockfish), the, or rockfish), , Aoba-ku; dishes from from dishes Aoba-ku; , ō kichiji from Ishinomaki. from area is T ﬆ ō 261-2164; www.jiraiya.com/pc; Base- www.jiraiya.com/pc; 261-2164; Bucking the trend for flash and % ; Local are the draw sake seafood and (also called (also called Drinking & Nightlife 地雷也 wine, ¥650). Look for the hand-painted Eng- lish sign. house speciality. Jiraiya’s entrance is on a entrance Jiraiya’s house speciality. side street, by a giant red lantern. marked Reservationson week- are recommended for groups. ends, especially brashness in Kokubunch ment bar has a mellow vibe and a retro-pop soundtrack. The menu specializes in fruit- pick: Our infused spirits from around Japan. the lemon and ginger-spiked here. Seating is elbow-to-elbow at the coun- is elbow-to-elbow here. Seating is warm and jovial. but the atmosphere ter, tryIf you can splurge, the charcoal-grilled kinki irregularly) Aoba-ku; cover charge ¥500; ¥500; charge cover Aoba-ku; entertainment district. It’s noisy, slightly noisy, entertainment district. It’s everythingchaotic and bright, with from and British-styled hole-in-the-wall bars clubs and seedy pubs to raging dancing are a fair that there strip shows. Note host clubs here, as number of hostess and well as seemingly ordinary bars, that levy a good idea to steep cover charges; it’s check before ordering. Gallo Kokubunch 2-12-23 (http://gallo-bar.jimdo.com; Jiraiya Jiraiya ( 6 The Kokubunch ¥1050) ment fl, 2-1-15 Kokubunch 2-1-15 ment fl, $ $ $$ This ers from community to community and, for the for and, community to community from ers ) zunda- ff BURGERS v TEAHOUSE TEAHOUSE JAPANESE JAPANESE ream of fresh veggies and extra income to a community a community to income extra and veggies fresh of ream ﬆ en, Aoba-ku; Aoba-ku; snacks en, , Aoba-ku; burgers Aoba-ku; burgers , ō eady eady ō In business for 130 In nished, local aid groups have turned to helping communities helping communities to turned have aid groups local nished, At this landmark ) ﬆ fi curtains out front. ry was completely wiped out by the tsunami. Run by an internation- by Run the tsunami. wiped out by completely ry was v ly ﬆ ﬆ (www.ogaforaid.org/en) needs volunteers to work on a farming project project on a farming work to needs volunteers (www.ogaforaid.org/en) arts on Monday, Wednesday or Saturday after a brief orientation session orientation session a brief after or Saturday Wednesday on Monday, arts (http://peaceboat.jp/relief/volunteer) accepts volunteers for two days or days two for volunteers accepts (http://peaceboat.jp/relief/volunteer) noren , Aoba-ku; meals from ¥1400; ¥1400; from meals Aoba-ku; , ﬆ ō , served with a side of pickled 225-4641; www.aji-tasuke.co.jp; 225-4641; www.aji-tasuke.co.jp; 12pm-10pm, to 8pm Sun; 8pm Sun; to 12pm-10pm, 11am-6pm; % shing indu h ; 1-1 Sakuragaoka-k ; 1-1 -tan alone is incredibly filling. alone is incredibly The tea- h fi ū (charcoal-grilled cow tongue) is acow tongue) (charcoal-grilled ; ; 2-10-7 Kokubunch ; 2-10-7 part, requires volunteers with a fair amount of Japanese-language skills. However, However, skills. Japanese-language amount of fair with a volunteers requires part, (sea squirt) cultivators get back to work or helping with preparations for a local a local for or helping with preparations work to back get cultivators squirt) (sea

, pounded rice cakes topped with a topped cakes , pounded rice ival. Work Work ival. gy ﬆ Both organisations can provide volunteers with basic accommodation for a small fee. a small fee. for accommodation with basic volunteers provide can organisations Both O.G.A For Aid For O.G.A Peace Boat Peace Eating ﬆ -tan mochi Aji Tasuke Aji Tasuke

ū whose whose up the coa in Minami-Sanriku, is based O.G.A multilingual lot, al, that aims to provide a provide that aims to at the Peace Boat Ishinomaki Center. Ishinomaki Center. Boat at the Peace more to work on projects in Ishinomaki or Onagawa. This could mean tying nets to help to nets tying mean This could in Ishinomaki or Onagawa. projects on work to more hoya fe mo with with volunteers work to the capacity who have organisations a handful of are there as as and ideally apply in advance, need to You’ll ability. Japanese-language little or no possible. With With clean-up mo di that work This is delicate rebuild. VOLUNTEERING IN THE TSUNAMI ZONE 11.30am-10pm Wed-Mon) 11.30am-10pm 味太助ほそや源吾茶屋 4-4-13 Ichiban-ch 4-4-13 h o ( ( Hosoya Hosoya ( Gengo Chaya Chaya Gengo 5 Gy much-loved local delicacy. much-loved from ¥330; ¥330; from vintage burger counter has grilled over avintage burger counter and since opening in 1950, million patties still serves old-school soda fountain up ice-cream floats. Theretreats like are a few eggoptions, like and cheese sandwiches, for vegetarians, too. Look English sign for the out front. house is on the eastern edge of Sakuragaokahouse is on the eastern edge white with Park, jam made from fresh soybeans – a Sendai fresh soybeans – a jam made from can get here, too, but meals You specialty. the years, this teahouse is known for its is known for its years, this teahouse mochi cabbage and tail soup. Grab a seat at the counter to watch – and smell – the grilling in action. The restaurant is next to a small torii (shrine gate), and usually has a queue. restaurant it’s not what you order, but how not what you order, restaurant it’s here to sample the fa- is much. Everyone mous from ¥350; from

Ū (TŌHOKU) MIYAGI PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 16 17 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) MIYAGI PREFECTURE

taki Ō 256-6646; Tour- % ( 9am-6pm) . Purchase tick- ū h 10am-7pm Mon-10am-7pm Taiheyo Ferry h 6.50am-7.30pm), 6.50am-7.30pm), , ; 2nd fl, JR Sendai ō h ), a 20-metre deep a 20-metre ), Access line leaves roughly roughly leaves line Access ō , Aoba-ku; 磊々峡 211-0489; http://www.iace. 211-0489; k hoku Bus Center ( ū ō ūō ō % of bathhouses at the bathhouses of (¥490, 40 minutes), but only until bus pool for Akiu Onsen Onsen Akiu bus pool for びゅうプラザ (from ¥7000, 15 hours), and three ( ō ﬆ ( ﬆ ō 10am-7pm) For domestic10am-7pm) travel ar- JR T JR h ights head to/from Tokyo, Osaka, ﬂ ), a 6m-wide, 55m-high waterfall 55m-high waterfall a 6m-wide, ), Getting There & Away

Rairai-ky 263-9877; www.taiheiyo-ferry.co.jp/english 263-9877; 9am-8pm) English-speaking staff, interna- staff, English-speaking 9am-8pm) The Sendai K Buses leave from stop 34 at Sendai Station % rangements, including ferry tickets. ferry including rangements, Station; Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, closed Sun) For interna- For Sun) closed Sat, 10am-5pm Fri, arrangements. travel tional View Plaza tional newspaper library and bulletin board. Nagoya, Hiroshima, Sapporo and many other destinations. every 20 minutes from Sendai Station for the airport (¥630, 25 minutes). BUS Highway buses depart from outside the east exit of the train station, and connect Sendai to throughout cities major Honsh From Sendai airport, 18km south of the city centre, BOAT From the port of Sendai-k h TRAVEL AGENCIES IACE Travel 8 AIR ets at the co.jp; 2-2-1 Ch www.jrbustohoku.co.jp; www.jrbustohoku.co.jp; /index.html) runs one daily ferry to Tomakomai Hokkaid on to four ferries per week to Nagoya (from ¥6500, hours). 22 Sendai-kfor 6pm. next to bus stop 42. ( 秋保大滝 ; famous waterfalls (Japanese do love those those do love (Japanese waterfalls famous ( ﬆ ATM This 266- h taki , ops before the terminus at Akiu Onsen Yumoto). Akiu Onsen at the terminus before ops Ō % DANCE CLUB DANCE ﬆ ūō ; 222-4069; 222-4069; % 398-2323; akiuonsenkumiai.com/en/index.html; 398-2323; akiuonsenkumiai.com/en/index.html; op 8 at Sendai Station’s we Station’s op 8 at Sendai ( Akiu 仙台中央警察 ﬆ % , Aoba-ku) , ( 仙台国際センタ ( ō

( 仙台中央郵便局 ( ) was the Date clan’s favourite therapeutic retreat, with a natural a natural with retreat, therapeutic favourite clan’s the Date ) was outpatient services outpatient 8.30am-7pm) Pick up up Pick 8.30am-7pm) er up their baths to day-trippers. day-trippers. to er up their baths 仙台市立病院 h of town is town of ﬀ ( h retch your legs along the rim of along the rim of legs your retch ﬆ ﬆ 264-0151; Ch 1-3-1 % 秋保温泉 ; 10am-9pm, to 8pm Sun & holidays) 丸善 h ( 265-2471; www.sira.or.jp/icenter/ 265-2471; 222-7171; 1-3-19 Itsutsubashi, Aoba-ku) Aoba-ku) Itsutsubashi, 1-3-19 222-7171; In the hills we Buses leave hourly from from hourly leave Buses You can also also can You Information

% % 722-5651; www.clubshaft.com; 4th fl, Yoshiokaya Yoshiokaya 4th fl, www.clubshaft.com; 722-5651; gorge that runs through the village. Pick up maps and a li maps Pick up village. the through that runs gorge at the Akiu Sato Center (two bus (two Center Akiu Sato at the AKIU ONSEN Akiu Onsen ( dozens are There arthritis. and pain back for a curative be to said spring that’s saltwater that o inns here of ist Information Center Information ist (¥780, 50 minutes). On weekends, there are two buses daily that continue to Akiu to daily that continue buses two are there weekends, On 50 minutes). (¥780, for Center Akiu Sato the from buses the few one of catch Otherwise, 1½ hours). (¥1070, minutes). 20 (¥630, the falls designated as one of Japan’s three mo three Japan’s as one of designated to minutes 20 down outlook or hike a scenic from the falls View three!). of sets famous the bottom. 267-8035; Kitame-machi, 1-7 Aoba-ku; ; ; ji, Wakabayashi-ku; ō % ー Aoba-ku; www.sentabi.jp/1000/10000000.html; 2nd 2nd www.sentabi.jp/1000/10000000.html; Station; Sendai JR fl, 8.30am-11.30am Mon-Fri) Mon-Fri) 8.30am-11.30am 7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat, to 7pm Sun) Sun) 7pm 9am-9pm to Sat, Mon-Fri, 7am-11pm There’s also a branch on the 1st floor of Sendai ATMs. international have both Station; TOURIST INFORMATION Center Information City Sendai Sendai Central Post Office Post Central Sendai % MONEY & POST MEDICAL MEDICAL SERVICES City Hospital Sendai EMERGENCY Station Police Central Sendai 8 BOOKSHOPS Maruzen 署 Club Shaft ( English maps and brochures here. Centre International Sendai english/index.html; Aoba-yama, Aoba-ku; 7111, 24hr emergency hotline 216-9960; Shimizu- 3-1 http://hospital.city.sendai.jp; k English-language magazines and books. perennial venue spins a shuffled playlist of playlist shuffled perennial venue spins a a great have You’ll hip-hop, house and J-pop. regrettime here, and most likely it once the hangover kicks in. Dai 3 Bldg, 2-10-11 Kokubunch 2-10-11 3 Bldg, Dai

ō ISLAND TEMPLE TEMPLE PAVILION daimy 8.30am-5pm Apr- 8.30am-5pm 8am-3.30pm Jan Jan &8am-3.30pm 8am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 8am-5pm Mar-Oct, h h h This pavilion was This pavilion (powdered green tea). Connected to the mainland den (temple museum), which ū matcha hoku’s finest Zen Zuigan- temple, hoku’s

ō Date Masamune constructed this Date Masamune ō ) ; admission ¥200; ¥200; ; admission ; admission ¥200; ¥200; ; admission ; admission ¥700; ¥700; ; admission T Sights Matsushima is the most popular tourist is the Matsushima 五大堂福浦島観瀾亭瑞巌寺 by a 252m-long, red wooden bridge, Fuku- small wooden temple in 1604. Though it connected to stands on an island in the bay, the mainland by a short bridge, it was mi- raculously tsunami. untouched by the 2011 The public only temple doors open to the once every 33 years (nextCome in 2039). instead for the sea views and to see the 12 animals of the Chinese zodiac carved on the eaves. 4.30pm Nov-Feb) 4.30pm destination on the northeastdestination coast and can get veryon summer crowded, especially its charms are undeniable. Still, weekends. Matsushima. More recently, locals credit thecredit locals recently, More Matsushima. – which servedislands a natural break- as Matsushima sparing – with mostly water the devastation seen elsewhere the along tsunami. coast after the 2011 ji was established in 828 AD. The present AD. ji was established in 828 buildings were constructed by Date in 1606 to serveMasamune as a family temple. Zuigan-ji is currently undergoing a major restoration project that will last until 2019. As and a result, some buildings are closed to enter them,others, though it is possible are sheathed in tarps. Still open is the excellent Seiry includes a number of well-preserved relics including national from the Date family, treasures. presented to the Date family by the in the late 16th Hideyoshi century. Toyotomi It served as a genteel venue for tea ceremo- nies and moon viewing parties – the name means ‘a place to view ripples on the water’. a peaceful spot for sipping a bowl it’s Today of whisked Fuku-ura-jima Fuku-ura-jima ( Godai-d ( Kanran-tei Kanran-tei ( 1 the sights are, is where Matsushima-kaigan, easily navigatedessentially a small village, on foot. Zuigan-ji ( Dec, to 4pm Feb & Nov, to 4.30pm Mar & Oct, to 5pm to & Oct, Mar 4.30pm to & Nov, 4pm Feb to Dec, Apr-Sep) Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar) 4.30pm to Oct, ) runs ce a few a ce ﬃ hoku hoku 仙台ま ō ( (rapid) trains 東北自動車道 ( kaisoku 293-0100; http://rent. 293-0100; (Three Great Sights). 松島 % ( bus, Sendai subway and subway Sendai bus, 8am-8pm) has an o ﬆ ; adult/child ¥2600/1300) ¥2600/1300) ; adult/child h (one ride/day (one pass ¥250/600) tour- between and Tokyo Sendai (¥10,590, , who filled his journal with ap- Nihon Sankei ō Sendai Marugoto Pass Marugoto Sendai SENDAI MARUGOTO PASS MARUGOTO SENDAI

hoku Expressway hoku ō in the north to Tomizawa in the south, but Getting Around Getting

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The るごとパス on the travel unlimited two-day covers touri Loople area trains and buses going as far as as far going buses and trains area and Onsen Akiu Matsushima-kaigan, Prefecture). Yamagata (in Yamadera Station. Sendai JR Pick one up at Bash ūō Toyota Rent Toyota a Car Sendai’s single subway line runs from Izumi- There are several daily between and Tokyo the greater Sendai area. blocks east of the station.

Matsushima’s glorious bay, studded with bay, glorious Matsushima’s some 260 pine-covered islands, is one of Japan’s Matsushima 022 / POP 15,800

prehensions about the journey northward, frequently dreamed of moonlit nights over 8 The ist trolley leaves from the west bus pool’s stop 15-3 every 30 minutes from 9am4pm, to taking a useful loop around the city in a clockwise direction. ch doesn’t cover any tourist attractions; single tickets cost ¥200 to ¥350. shinkansen two hours), and between Sendai and Morioka (¥6290, 45 minutes). TRAIN There are hourly trains on the JR T on the JR Senzan line between Sendai and Yamagata (¥1110, hours), 1¼ via Yamadera (¥820, one hour). Local trains on the JR Senseki line connect Sendai and Matsushima-kaigan (¥400, 35 minutes); make sure to get one going all the way to Takagi-machi. T h e CAR & MOTORCYCLE toyota.co.jp/en/index.html; 1-5-3 Tsutsujigaoka, Miyagino-ku; Over the centuries, the trees have beenOver the centuries, the trees have by the winds, while theirslowly twisted been eroded by the lapping bases have rocky The result is a spectacularwaves. monu- dramatic powers. ment to nature’s

Ū (TŌHOKU) MIYAGI PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 18 19 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) MIYAGI PREFECTURE

$ $$ $$$ -tan kais- ū ill , which gy JAPANESE JAPANESE ﬆ PENSION PENSION Perennial Perennial ers ers in- ﬀ ﬆ LUXURY HOTEL HOTEL LUXURY (Japanese haute (Japanese rotemburo 354-5777; www.bistro 354-5777; % , turning right on turning right , ﬆ ; ) saw far more tsu- more far ) saw kaiseki 355-0022; www.ubudo.jp; 5-3 5-3 www.ubudo.jp; 355-0022; Fancy catching the sunrise Fancy % ) ; ; 24-4-1 Senzui; meals from ¥980; from meals Senzui; ; 24-4-1 奥松島 op at Nobiru (¥230, 20 min- 20 op at Nobiru (¥230, ﬆ piW This pension looks like a little cha- This a little looks like pension ) (mixed sashimi on rice) and bus Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping ﬆ 11.30am-3pm, 5pm-10pm Thu-Tue) 5pm-10pm 11.30am-3pm, Bistro Abalon Abalon Bistro びすとろアバロンホテル海風土さんとり茶屋 (beef tongue), are on the menu here, along Matsushima’s with seasonal specialities like famous oysters. Seating is on floor cushions on the second floor; try to catch a table by Matsushima-machi; r per person with 2 meals from from with 2 meals r per person Matsushima-machi; ¥18,000; teau perched on a hill. Inside, however, are however, on a hill. Inside, teau perched and furniture beams, rattan dark wood Thebamboo shades. nicer rooms have are a viewsbalconies and sea. Meals of the and sourced seafood, beef feast of locally produce. The inn is a seven-minute walk Matsushima-kaigan up the hill behind Station. Santori Chaya Chaya Santori ( h 4 S ( pnW Ubudo Hotel ( abalon.com/06/index.html; 26-21 Sanjugari; s/d s/d Sanjugari; 26-21 abalon.com/06/index.html; ¥12,000; 2 meals with r per person ¥6300/10,500, over the bay from your window, or perhaps or perhaps from your window, over the bay from the bath? This onsen hotel gets top billing for its fabulous the hotel’s when faces out towards the bay; can reservenot too crowded, guests it for private use. The are either spacious rooms the priciest ones style; or Western Japanese come with private baths on the balcony. are lavish Meals cuisine) courses that showcase the rich variety of local seafood. The hotel is away to Fukuura- past the bridge from the fray, jima, but still within walking distance of the main sights. local favourites from land and sea, like from land and sea, like local favourites en-don op and head to the coa to op and head ﬆ Bi- reet lights) along the way, so pack water and water pack so along the way, lights) reet FOOD O-BON LIGHTS In ﬆ ), a hill in the middle of Miyato Island that o Miyato of a hill in the middle ), SCENIC CRUISE SCENIC 大高森 te this festival ( To get of the a sense To e Umi-no-bon takamori ; http://uminobon.jp) ō t Ō ū

; Matsushima Oyster Festival) Oyster ; Matsushima takamori. takamori. ō ern curve of the bay, remote Oku-Matsushima ( Oku-Matsushima remote the bay, of ern curve 9am-3pm) The approach to Zuigan-ji is d Ō ) ﬆ ō h ; www.matsushima.or.jp; adult/child adult/child ; www.matsushima.or.jp; Festivals & Events unning views of the bay; however, you will have to work to get here. The touri here. get to work to will have you however, the bay; of unning views Activities utes). Cross the bridge in front of the bus of in front the bridge Cross utes). and a small the trailhead the sign for see until you and continuing road paved the newly (or no facilities are There lot. parking to the trailhead from walk a 15-minute It’s dark. before it back make can you sure make of the top possible to visit to possible ﬆ about for and back a taxi there arrange help you can in Matsushima centre formation the close from an hour walk it’s Otherwise, ¥6000. OKU-MATSUSHIMA On the ea It is little had been rebuilt. research the time of At than Matsushima. nami damage 松島流灯会海の盆瑞巌寺灯道松島牡蠣祭り松島湾 scale of the bay, and its dense cluster of pine- and its dense cluster of scale of the bay, bonsai so many that sit like topped islands you need pond, backyard giant’s floating in a boats depart Cruise to get out on the water. from the central ferry year-round hourly, completing a 50-minute loop. A run- pier, most of which is trans- ning commentary, trivia on somelated into English, provides April Between of the more famous islands. you can opt for a longer course and October, togoes all the way (¥2500, 1¾ hours) that Oku-Matsushima. mid-August, the souls of the departed are of thehonoured with the O-Bon (Festival Dead) ritual, when lighted lanterns are floated out to sea. Matsushima Ry ( Zuigan-ji T Zuigan-ji ( Matsushima Kaki Matsuri Matsushima Kaki ( z Matsushima-wan Matsushima-wan ( 2 ura-jima puts you right in the bay. The shady bay. in the right puts you ura-jima the coast wind along here, which trails garden, and a botanic native pines through stroll. hour-long for a pleasant make ¥1400/700; ¥1400/700; held the first weekend in February, where in February, held the first weekend you can purchase oysters and cook them on a 100m-long grill. valve aficionados will apprecia enhanced from 6 to 8 August, when candle- sticks are lit along the path for the event, which honours this ancient shrine.

ONSEN HIKING This hinoki yukata 7.30am-10pm) 鳴子温泉 h (foot baths), or go for the (Japanese clogs) as (Japanese

ō ashiyu geta Northwest of Naruko town, this Northwest of Naruko ) ; admission ¥150; ; admission Sights & Activities Most travellers just come for the after-for the come just travellers Most The connects Senseki line, which JR 鳴子峡滝の湯 100m-deep gorge is particularly spectacu- change col- lar in the fall when the leaves At the time of research, the trail lead- our. ing to the gorge from town was closed for repairs. An alternative course, which loops can bridges in about an hour, around two Onsen be reached from Nakayama-daira 1 Taki-no-yu ( Naruko-ky ( Naruko Onsen 0229 / POP 8500 to hear the clip- Onsen Come to Naruko clop of saunter be- robe)-clad bathers (Japanese in and spring-fed baths. Breathe tween as it rises from smell the sulphurous steam street culverts. Stop and soak tired feet in the (free!) onsen ryokan. full wash in one of the town’s nine for having Onsen is famous Naruko differ- distinct springs, whose waters have ent mineral content and thus different Yu- advantage of the healing qualities. Take meguri Ticket (¥1200) to visit the baths at inns. several different fabulously atmospheric wooden bathhouse is a sheer delight that has hardly changed gushes in from in 150 years. Water cypress) channels, carrying with(Japanese it various elements and minerals including sodium bicarbonate and sodium sulphur, chloride. This particular onsen is famous for its therapeutic relief of high blood pressure and hardened arteries. noon, but if you’d like to spend more time spend more to like but if you’d noon, in the process now city, to know the getting of rebuilding,for the bed down you can Ishinomaki run by at the guesthouse night 2.0. is currently sus- Ishinomaki, Sendai and and Yamato. Takagi-machi pended between from Matsushima-kaigan coming Travellers and connect bus to Yamato a should take line there for Ishinomaki with the Senseki 1½ hours). Direct buses highway (¥480, front of Sendai Station from stop 33 in leave roughly (¥800, 1½ hours) for Ishinomaki an hour. twice

石ノ森 ( 9am-6pm

(cartoon- 三陸自動 h ( 9am-5.30pm) series. Ishinomori. Ishinomori. 9.30am- 354-2263; 354-2263; h ō h % tar ( ō manga-ka 石巻 Kamen Rider Tourist Information Center Information Tourist Sanriku Expressway Sanriku and . Looking an otherworldly like 96-5055; www.man-bow.com/manga; 96-5055; www.man-bow.com/manga; % ;

). Getting There & Away Information

93-6448; www.i-kanko.com; www.i-kanko.com; 93-6448; The museum, and Ishinomaki, were The Ishinomaki, museum, and Due to tsunami damage, rail service is dis- % heavily damaged by the 2011 tsunami. At damaged by the 2011 heavily the time of research, the museum was still undergoing reconstruction but was set to the train From 2012. reopen in November about a 20-minute walk; pick up station it’s a map at the 車道 ist) and local hero Sh is most famous for creating the Ishinomori 009 Cyborg spaceship, this museum is packed with spaceship, this museum is packed tributes to influential just outside the station. Along the way you’lljust outside the station. Along the way charac- spot a few statues of Ishinomori’s to come. ters, a teaser for what’s 萬画館 www.matsushima-kanko.com; www.matsushima-kanko.com; (

This seaside city’s singular tourist attrac- This seaside city’s big to manga fans: tion is one that matters Museum Mangattan Ishinomaki Ishinomaki 0225 / POP 152,000 rupted beyond Takagi-machi stop (one after Matsushima-kaigan) as far as Yamato. A bus runs along this route instead, leaving from at stopping and Station Matsushima-kaigan Nobiru (¥230, 20 minutes), the closest stop for Oku-Matsushima; buy a regular JR ticket at the train station to use on the bus. Trains on the Senseki line for Ishinomaki pick up again from Yamoto. Frequent trains on the JR Senseki line connect Sendai and Matsushima-kaigan (¥400, 35 minutes). TRAIN For drivers, Matsushima can be reached from Sendai via the 8 CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Tourist Information Center 8 the window. Thein a beige is restaurant window. the a and has indigo banner with an building picture menu. Mar-Nov, to 5pm Wed-Mon Dec-Feb, closed 3rd 3rd closed Dec-Feb, Wed-Mon 5pm to Mar-Nov, Mar-Nov) Tue 2-7 Nakase; adult/child ¥800¥200; ¥800¥200; adult/child Nakase; 2-7 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat & Sun) Sun) & Sat 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 4.30pm booking accommodation brochures, English and the latest info on Oku-Matsushima.

Ū (TŌHOKU) MIYAGI PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 20 21 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) IWATE PREFECTURE This CRAFTS s ﬆ hoku hoku ō 8am-8pm) 鳴子観光・旅館 h ( orefronts. orefronts. ﬆ makers. The makers. is workshop 83-3441; www.naruko.gr.jp; www.naruko.gr.jp; 83-3441; ; 93-1 Yumoto; Yumoto; ; 93-1 numa % Ō ; no valley, which influenced a no valley, ō between Sendai and Furukawa ee. It’s in the town centre, a centre, in the town It’s ee. line between Furukawa and Naruko house, where dorm beds co where house, kokeshi ﬀ ō ) is a quiet place, largely character- ﬆ -t ū Information Getting There & Away ated by the earthquake and tsunami, and tsunami, the earthquake by ated

8.30am-6pm) Located just outside the train ﬆ 岩手県こけしの大沼 Onsen (¥650, 45 minutes). 案内センター station. There are hourly trains on the JR T PREFECTURE IWATE second-largest prefecture, Iwate-ken Japan’s ( ised by sleepy valleys, a rugged coastline serious mountain ranges. and some pretty host to Although the region once played warring states and feudal rule, there are few remnants of this turbulent past, aside temples at Hiraizu- from the magnificent feels more provincial – in Iwate mi. Indeed, – and stopping in places the best of ways the T like Kokeshi-no- ( 8 Tourist Information Center h 8 shinkansen (¥3040, 15 minutes). Hourly trains run on the Rik JR rich collection of folkloric tales, can seem turning back time. almost like children, they onsen town became a popular souvenir in the early 20thcentury. father and son team represent the 5thfather and son team represent and in a line of re- 6th respectively, generation, spected a peek. can take behind the store, ask if you 0225-25-4953; http://ishinomaki2.com/v2/ 0225-25-4953; % , (

$$ $$ ructure, but it can certainly help a city attract a attract a city help certainly but it can ructure, (tra- Irori ﬆ , to see what else is going on; you’re welcome to to welcome on; you’re is going what else see to , ) RYOKAN RYOKAN RYOKAN RYOKAN W rotemburo kokeshi for the price of a cup of co of a cup of the price for ﬁ 10am-7pm; 10am-7pm; , which can be used h ; ūō , a collective of creative types from Sendai and Tokyo, NPO workers NPO workers Tokyo, and Sendai from types creative of a collective , 83-2565; www.yusaya.co.jp; 84 83-2565; www.yusaya.co.jp; % This homey, though slightly This homey, 83-2461; www.bentenkaku.jp; 87 87 www.bentenkaku.jp; 83-2461; ; rotemburo % ; ¥2000 a night. Stop by the hub, the hub, by Stop a night. ¥2000 , which is now a hiking trail. Pick up , which is now a hiking Among the many charms of this charms of this Among the many (rice paper doors). Meals are elegant (rice paper doors). Meals Sleeping ō ﬆ ) Shopping 10-minute walk from Ishinomaki Station. from walk 10-minute young, vibrant population. Ishinomaki was deva was Ishinomaki population. vibrant young, shuttered of a city becoming to way on its it was that before but even 2.0 Ishinomaki ju and local merchants, is working to ‘upgrade’ the city by taking abandoned, damaged damaged taking abandoned, by the city ‘upgrade’ to is working merchants, and local a workshop got they’ve far So cool. well, something, and turning them into buildings and a gue a bar goods, in Ishinomaki’ ‘made brand to ISHINOMAKI with infra up there isn’t cachet Sure, hang out and use their wi- hang out and use english; 2-10-2 Ch english; 2-10-2 ゆさや旅館弁天閣 privately, is in an isolated building sur- privately, rounded by a dense thicket of trees. The main building,which dates to 1936, has tatami-lined sleeping quarters separated areas by sliding sitting from Western-style shoji banquets fish and mountain vege- of river tables. country three inn is the chance to bathe in their waters baths, which take different springs. The particularlyfrom different impressive set in a landscaped garden fenced off withset in a landscaped garden fenced off The bamboo, which can be used privately. inn is at the edge of town, overlooking the Call for pickup from the station,Arao-gawa. a 20-minuteotherwise walk. it’s worn, ryokan is popular with foreign visitors. The comfort- tatami rooms are plenty able, but best of all are the twin pi 7 Onsen is famous for its Naruko ditional wooden dolls). Originally toys for Bentenkaku Bentenkaku ( 4 Ryokan Yusaya ( Station (¥180, seven minutes). This path also intersects with a 10km stretch of the by the haiku poet walked old foot highway, Bash maps and the latest trail info at the tourist maps and the latest trail information centre. Kuruma-yu; r per person without/with 2 meals from from 2 meals without/with person r per Kuruma-yu; ¥6300/11,025) Yumoto; r per person with 2 meals from ¥13,800; ¥13,800; from with 2 meals r per person Yumoto;

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Tazawa-ko Akita PREFECTURE ō Ny¥tŸ Onsen Shinkansen (1689) 13 105 Aomori (49km) Aomori 13 To Hirosaki (12km); To Hirosaki shu Fujiwara clan used their gold- shu Fujiwara Ō

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Matsuo Bash Matsuo grandeur once rivalled Hiraizumi’s J¥kan TetsudŸ Line J¥kan TetsudŸ YAMAGATA PREFECTURE Noshiro Deep North Deep Kyoto. From 1089 to 1189, three generations From Kyoto. of the mining wealth to create a living paradise devoted to the principles of Buddhism. feudal strife put these ambitions However, only a to an abrupt, tragic end. Today few bear testament to Hiraizumi’s sights yet this pleasantly rural town former glory, remains one of T 0191 / POP 8000 ‘Summer grass, all that remains of warrior dreams.’ sights were added Hiraizumi’s attractions. list in Heritage to the UNESCO World 2011. Hiraizumi Hiraizumi Iwate Prefecture Iwate

Ū (TŌHOKU) IWATE PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 22 23 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) IWATE PREFECTURE

$$ A is ō MUSEUM TRADITIONAL TRADITIONAL ennen-no- SCENIC CRUISE SCENIC icker – icker ed by a ed by ﬆ ﬁ ricted to to ricted ﬆ (classical Japa- ō n HOKU HOKU ¥480, 30 minutes). ¥480, JAPANESE-STYLE HOTEL HOTEL JAPANESE-STYLE ; 44 Hanadate, Hirai- ; 44 Hanadate, The Musashib Ō ) aying in Japan for for Japan in aying ﬆ hoku Welcome Welcome hoku sawa; r per person with 2 with r per person sawa; Autumn Fujiwara Festival) Fujiwara Autumn 46 -2241; www.musasibou. 46 -2241;

pi ō ō Spring Fujiwara Festival) Spring Fujiwara ; ; ō kaisoku With English explanations With % ; Singing boatmen on flat-bot- Singing boatmen ers discounts on admission, on admission, discounts ers ﬀ ; Geibi Gorge; 90 minute cruise ¥1500; cruise 90 minute ; Geibi Gorge; o 9am-5pm) Northern T NORTHERN T NORTHERN h Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping Festivals & Events funato line ( Hiraizumi Cultural Cultural Hiraizumi (longevity dances) and an enormous Ō foreign travellers travellers foreign than a year. less WELCOME CARD WELCOME red-and-white Welcome Card Welcome red-and-white Akita Prefectures. and Aomori in Iwate, (www. the website from the card Print Note northern-tohoku.gr.jp/welcome). re is technically use that its lodging and even transportation from from transportation lodging and even – identi vendors participating Card The 8:30am-4pm) ホテル武蔵坊春の藤原まつり秋の藤原まつり平泉文化遺産センター猊鼻渓 From 1 to 5 May; features a costumed pro- features a costumed 1 to 5 May; From cession, performances of nese dance-drama), traditional nese dance-drama), traditional 3 No- place from 1 to similar festival takes vember. mai rice cake–carrying competition. zumi; Hotel Musashib Hotel ( z Matsuri Haru-no-Fujiwara ( Matsuri Aki-no-Fujiwara ( 4 F ( Geibi-kei ( h throughout, this newthroughout, charts museum Hirai- fall. rise and zumi’s co.jp; 15 Hiraizumi- co.jp; ¥9600; from meals within walking distance of the main sights. Considering that it also comes comes with onsen spacious tatami rooms, an attractive tom wooden boats steer passengers down boats steer passengers tom wooden which cuts through a ra- the Satetsu River, with towering limestone walls. vine flanked Take Geibi-kei is 15km east of Hiraizumi. Sta- Ichinoseki the bus from stop 7 outside hourly) or the traintion (¥620, 40 minutes, to Geibi-kei Station on the from Ichinoseki JR Heritage Center Center Heritage ) ō z ō TEMPLE TEMPLE GARDENS -ji was 8.30am- ū

h ts ō and the ō ; Sank ō was at the Also estab- ō Located 6km 讃衡蔵 8am-4.30pm Apr-Oct, Apr-Oct, 8am-4.30pm h son-ji was established established was son-ji 46-4931; admission ¥300; admission 46-4931; With gilding up to its With gilding up to its has survived thus far. has survived thus far. ū ō % ; Ch ; Sutra Repository), remain 46-2331; admission ¥500; ¥500; 46-2331; admission

shu Fujiwara family who expand- family shu Fujiwara ō % shu Fujiwara family. Given Hirai- family. shu Fujiwara Golden Hall; 経蔵 Ō hoku’s largest and grandest temple hoku’s ; ; Ō -ji ō -ji in about 30 minutes. ( ū ū ō z ts ts ō 8am-5pm, varies per season) varies 8am-5pm, ō ō 金色堂達谷窟毘沙門堂毛越寺 eaves, elaborate lacquer work and mother- elaborate eaves, the Konjiki-d of-pearl inlay, cutting edge of Heian-era artistry edge of Heian-era cutting when it still impresses – and it was created in 1124 the three altars are the Beneath today. three generations mummified remains of of the it seems a miracle history, unlucky zumi’s that the Konjiki-d is now So as not to tempt fate, the pavilion behind glass inside a fireproof enclosure. The adjacent treasury ( contains the coffins and funeral finerycontains the coffins of clan – scrolls, swords and im- the Fujiwara ages transferred from long-vanished halls and temples. 8.30am-4pm Nov-Mar) 8.30am-4pm outside of town, this temple built into a is dedicated to Bishamon, the Buddhistcave guardian of warriors. It was first built by the in 801 general Sakanoue-no-Tamuramaro CE after his victory against a local warlord. path from can cycle here along a paved You M Takkoku-no-Iwaya Bishamon-d Takkoku-no-Iwaya ( h ( M Konjiki-d ( 4.30pm Nov-Mar) 4.30pm in AD 850 by the priest Ennin, though it though priest Ennin, 850 by the in AD was the 5pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar) 4.30pm to Apr-Oct, 5pm once T complex. The buildings are all long gone, but the enigmatic, 12th-century Land’ ‘Pure gardens remain, which were designed with the Buddhist notion of creating an earthly paradise. lished by Ennin in AD 850, M alongside more recent reconstructions.alongside more recent site is reached via a steep The sprawling cedar-lined avenue. Ky ed the complexed the the 12th in century – a 40 temples with of 300 buildings total the face of in were constructed. Ironically, scheme to build a Buddhist their grand was never far from trag- utopia, Hiraizumi ravaged fire here in 1337 edy: a massive nearly everything. of the original Only two constructions, Konjiki-d the

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3 Hiraizumi 4 English pamphlets. Bicycle rental is available available is rental pamphlets. Bicycle English dumplings – try them with the sweet sesame for right by the train station; look sauce. It’s out front. the orange awning looks more like a local lunch counter than a a local lunch counter looks more like the menu is tourist restaurant and, fittingly, dishes. The home-style special- full of tasty here is the handmade ity h Tourist Information Center 8 O-shokuji-dokoro Sakura Sakura O-shokuji-dokoro ( bath and formal, sit-down dinners, it’s a bath and formal, sit-down dinners, it’s the station, walk good deal. From pretty straight for 500m and turn right, walk another 500m and look for the hulking concrete building on the left. meals from ¥100/700; ¥100/700; from meals

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6666 6666 25 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) IWATE PREFECTURE , this MUSEUM MUSEUM ; admis- no ō ō mukashi- literally literally ore in in ore ; y little y little no Folk Village Village no Folk ﬆ ute con- ute ō ﬆ ﬆ 河童 ri; admission ¥310, ¥310, ri; admission would call call would no Municipal Museum Museum no Municipal ō ō no’s famous legends, no’s -d ō kappa ( Legends of T of Legends no Mukashibanashi-mura; no Mukashibanashi-mura; ūō ō kappa n Housed in the restored Housed ; 3-9 Higashidate-ch With its smattering of Eng- With its smattering T w ; remember to bow. Japa- bow. to remember o T ou happen to be a compas-

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concentration of of concentration no Folk Village Village no Folk no Municipal Museum Museum no Municipal no speaks to a time when people lived in- when people to a time no speaks 62-7887; 2-11 Ch 2-11 62-7887; ﬆ ō ō ō とおの昔話村遠野市立博物館 is none other than a cucumber hand roll. than a cucumber hand is none other combined entrance to T to entrance combined ¥520; ¥520; sion ¥310, combined entrance to T to entrance combined sion ¥310, ¥520; lish text, artefacts and videos of village life depicting T some of this museum provides a good measure ofthis museum provides to background info and context for what’s come in the valley beyond. T ( % verdant rice fields and dramatic mountains, dramatic and fields rice verdant T 1 1 T ( timately off their land. Here, a bike ride a bike land. Here, their off timately can transport the woods through you to a wild things where the ‘Lostmythical Japan’, and were leftroamed free de- to their own vices, however devious they might be. banashi countrythe heavy dialect, even Japanese trouble understanding. have visitors may evocative has audiovisuals of some museum of the tales and memorabilia pertaining local Several times a day to Yanagita. storytellers regale visitors with ryokan where Yanagita Kunio penned Kunio ryokan where Yanagita his famous work, Kappa ure, thus spilling out the water they they thus spilling out the water ure, ﬆ ines out through their bum in order to feed on on feed to their bum in order out through ines kappa-maki ﬆ will return the ge will return or ghosts, demons, can die if not rehydrated), tip your water bottle and give them a and give bottle water tip your rehydrated), die if not can kappa kai ō y kappa which are humanoid creatures with thick shells, scaly skin and pointed skin and pointed scaly with thick shells, humanoid creatures which are , a mythical ball that humans would call a soul and a soul call that humans would ball a mythical ,

, will always repay a favour, and happen to be highly knowledgeable in be highly knowledgeable and happen to a favour, repay will always no has always been subject to no has always thing – if you do happen to come across a across come do happen to thing – if you

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medicine, agriculture and games of skill. of and games agriculture medicine, re their head, and rendering them temporarily powerl them temporarily and rendering their head, ( soul sionate nese to the core, the core, to nese cucumbers into any suspect water source. source. suspect water any into cucumbers delicious. human children, so your generosity might earn you a temporary reprieve. A reprieve. a temporary you might earn generosity your so human children, that a sushi will note of noisseurs ‘river-child’) beaks. They are responsible for all sorts of mischief and grief, and have a na a have and and grief, mischief of all sorts for responsible are They beaks. habit of pulling their victim’s inte pulling their victim’s habit of shirikodama T CAUTION: MISCHIEVOUS RIVER IMPS AHEAD If you have a vivid imagination, and are a vivid imagination, and If you have no is the heartland of some of Japan’s no is the heartland of some of Japan’s no is a wonderful place to leave behindno is a wonderful place to leave ō

ÿ ú Center...... C3 æ Ch æ Hiraizumi ō ō 0198 / POP 29,300 T A comparatively most cherished folk tales. from devastat- poor area that has suffered throughout the ing famines and droughts centuries, T the unforgiving whims of nature. Supersti- tious residents in turn developed a healthy for the natural mix of fear and admiration world, which led to the creation of a whole assortment of Surrounded by the trappings of urbanity. monsters and spirits. then longing for some clean country air, T T

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11 3 12 13 10 æ # ú ÿ A curious rock that rests amidst aromatic a natural formation or a either cedars, it’s warned that you never you that warned what know really in the hills lies waiting of creature manner you… around and streams Unedori-sama ing shrine. According to legend, if you tie a to legend, if you ing shrine. According (using only your leftstrip of red cloth hand) of the pines you’llaround one meet your the hills above it are soul mate. In wards Morioka for around 8km, you’llwards Morioka eventually come to carvings of Buddha fash- of 500 disciples ofpriest to console the spirits ioned by a famine. those who died in a 1754 Rakan æ # 283 N û Takashimizu-yama (798m) R

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What follows is a rough circuit What follows in taking no’s landmark sights to the west and east sights to the west landmark no’s no Valley opens up into some beautiful opens up into some no Valley

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3 Tōno Valley 2 of the town. Thisof the town. could be completed in a The valley or split into two. is fairlylong day but don’twell signposted in English, let that down unmarked deter off you from setting roads. Gettingis part lost of the fun, and to be made small discoveries there are many your eyes assured peeled. Rest if you keep just be fairly easy to right yourself, that it’s T terrain, particularlyyou head far enough if to the east.

1 countrysideto see the The best way is by bicycle,easier by a fan- that much made all The the river. alongside trail that runs tastic T

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Ū (TŌHOKU) IWATE66 PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 26 27 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) IWATE PREFECTURE

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HOSTEL HOSTEL

ection TRADITIONAL pniW ﬀ com- Yamaguchi ﬆ and oni , a nostalgic, (horseback ar- ) densetsu zashiki-war- 62-8736; www1.odn. 62-8736; ; ories is a com- ories % ﬆ ; kappa raught, the daughter the daughter raught, ﬆ yabusame 山口の水車 ( ; dm from ¥3900, YHA discount YHA ¥3900, ; dm from

ō This flamboyant spectacle, held ) ), a collection of regional folk folk regional of a collection ), no Youth Hostel no Youth no ō ō seki Sasaki, an educated man born an educated Sasaki, seki T no. There’s no. There’s Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping Festivals & Events ō ō S no Matsuri no of yesteryear. The amicable manager, The manager, amicable no of yesteryear. ō ō 遠野祭り遠野ユースホステル ¥3300, breakfast/dinner ¥550/1150; ¥550/1150; breakfast/dinner ¥3300, Fronted by rice fields, this remote farm- by Fronted homage to thehouse-turned-hostel pays T of English, who speaks a decent smattering is well-versed in the local lore and capti- vates imaginations with nightly reports on rumoured sightings. Accommodation is in simple dorms that share open-air baths, while meals are built around seasonal ne.jp/tono-yh/index-e.htm; 13-39-5 Tsuchibuchi, Tsuchibuchi, 13-39-5 ne.jp/tono-yh/index-e.htm; Tsuchibuchi-ch 4 o ( z T ( thatched-roof structure, from where it’s a thatched-roof structure, from where it’s 12km ride back to town. Waterwheel over the third weekend in September and in September over the third weekend for a bountiful har- designed for prayers vest, is deeply connected with the legends of T tinue east all the way to the tinue east all the way chery, in this case a 700-year-old event), chery, traditional dances and costume parades through the city.

ables and, in an outrage, drags the horse out the horse drags in an outrage, and, ables ﬆ en from a mulberry tree. Di a mulberry tree. from Legends of T Ka- no’s no’s ō humans. Throughout all of the all of Throughout humans. ; ō ﬆ ﬆ orytelling traditions of a region hitherto almo hitherto a region of traditions orytelling em of belief that attributes a personal spirit to every- spirit to a personal that attributes belief em of , another 山崎コン ( ﬆ ﬆ Densh

, a peaceful ) 遠野物語 en is the turn ( ō no style. 南部曲り家千葉 ( ō

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) Ō ruggle to overcome the everyday problems of rural life. rural of problems the everyday overcome ruggle to nds her sleeping in the ﬁ ﬆ s, including animals and inanimate objects. Of particular importance to to importance Of particular objects. including animals and inanimate s, ken-ji ory of Oshira-sama. It begins with a farm girl who develops a deep a who develops girl It begins with a farm Oshira-sama. ory of ﬆ no Monogatari no , a grand 200-year-old farm- ō ories were based on interviews with Ky on interviews based were ories ō J ﬆ of characters and situations is truly weird and wonderful, and draws heavily heavily draws and and wonderful, is truly weird and situations characters of カッパ淵 T ﬆ ( ﬆ (deity) Oshira-sama. Oshira-sama. (deity)

no peasant family who had committed to memory more than 100 than 100 memory more to who had committed family no peasant , a shrine to the god of birth fa- ō ) Yamazaki Konseisama Yamazaki ; admission ¥310; ¥310; ; admission en is spirits, who live in the corners of houses and play tricks on the residents; on the residents; tricks play and houses of in the corners who live spirits, ō kami 9am-4pm) There are also shape-shifting foxes; impish water sprites called called sprites impish water shape-shifting foxes; also are There The ca no is the ō h ashi lo eat in the hills and live who (ogres) mon theme: the clings to the horse’s head and together they are spirited up to the heavens, becoming becoming the heavens, up to spirited are they and together head the horse’s to clings the tales. The tales. imagination, the nation’s captured unearthed and Sasaki Yanagita What legends). (local oral the rich focus bringing into a read worth and is well English into has been translated The collection ignored. pletely while – visiting. yet – or better before thing that exi T One permission. father’s with her marry – though not the two eventually her horse; for her father night, the poor bea and hangs garden the to on the concept of animism, a sy animism, of on the concept At the beginning of the 20th century, writer and scholar Yanagita Kunio (1875–1962) Kunio (1875–1962) Yanagita and scholar writer century, 20th the of the beginning At published LEGENDS OF T into a T a into About 5km east of Densh A few hundred metres of southeast Turning to the other side of town, about Turning ; 伝承園 off for off ( Chiba Family Magariya Family Chiba dolmen (primitive tomb). A short,dolmen (primitive steep rewards you with viewshike across the heed as hungry but take ogres (and valley, bears) are reported to lurk in these parts. is the One kilometre past Tsuzuki-ishi voured by women hoping to conceive. If you cycle back to the main road, you can con- famous water sprites lurk. It is said that if pregnant women worship at the shrine on the riverbank they’ll of produce plenty milk, but only if they first produce a breast- Theshaped offering. altar is filled with tiny small cloth bags, either red or white, most replete with nipple. temple dedicated to the deity image of Ob- temple dedicated to the deity inzuru-sama. Behind the temple is the house in the traditional T house in the traditional traditional farmhouse turned into a small cultural museum. The highlight here are the thousand Oshira-sama deities fashioned from mulberry wood. Densh セイサマ家 ppa-buchi 5km east of the town centre is PARK DANCE hoku hoku line line PARADES ō LANDMARK hoku hoku ō once stood. ō shinkansen hoku line between between line hoku ō A few blocks north The second Saturday ) 盛岡 In Morioka’s most famous Morioka’s In ) If you head east on foot from ) to Shin-Hanamaki (¥5550, one en ō ; Ishiwari-zakura) Sights Festivals & Events Getting There Away &

no (¥1250, 45 minutes). The no (¥1330, one hour), while the JR T If coming you’re from Sendai, take the T ō ō チャグチャグ馬コさんさ躍り石割桜岩手公園 shinkansen hour) and transfer to the JR Kamaishi line for T connects Shin-Hanamaki to Morioka (¥2950, 15 minutes). of June sees a parade of brightly decorated sees a parade of June horses and children in traditional dress. festival, held 1 to 4 August, thousands of the station along Kaiun-bashi for about 20 minutes, you’ll eventually come to this landscaped park, where Morioka-j All that remains of the castle, completed in are its moss-cov- 1633 and destroyed in 1874, ered stone foundation walls. Still, you can get a sense of its scale. ( Odori Sansa ( Rock-Splitting Cherry Tree Tree Cherry Rock-Splitting ( z Chagu-Chagu Umakko Morioka is an old castle town framed by is an old castle town framed Morioka a brooding volcano.three flowing rivers and domain, it isOnce the seat of the Nanbu now the prefectural capital and a regional transportation hub. Though the castle itself in its place and theis long gone, the park for a pleasant stroll.surrounding area make for its cast-iron ar- is also famous Morioka tisan work. 1 Iwate-k ( Hourly trains run on the JR T Morioka 019 / POP 300,000 8 Hiraizumi andHanamaki (¥820, 45 minutes). TheJR Kamaishi line connectsHanamaki to T line connects Hanamaki to Morioka (¥650, 45 minutes). of the park in front of the Morioka Districtof the park in front of the Morioka Court a local attraction: is this much-loved 300-year-old cherry tree, which sprouted from the crack in a huge granite boul- Some claim that it has pushed its way der. clearly through over time and while that’s nevertheless a sight an impossible feat, it’s to behold. $ $$ $$ If ) p no vil- dishes ō NOODLES NOODLES MINSHUKU MINSHUKU MINSHUKU MINSHUKU (Japanese (Japanese . Magariya . Magariya (unfiltered 62-2830; 62-2830; soba kai 62-1333; 62-1333; % ō ; no Station, takeno Station, y % ) Across from the ō ( There several are ) W 8am-6pm Apr-Oct, Apr-Oct, 8am-6pm minshuku doburoku p ri; mains from ¥600; ri; mains from h ō ), a local dish of thick, ; r per person without/with 2 without/with ; r per person -d ō 遠野郵便局 ūō ATM 8.45am-7pm Mon-Fri, 62-4395; www.minshuku-tono. ( 62-4564; 30-58-3 Niisato, Ayaori- Niisato, 62-4564; 30-58-3 h % no % ; ; ri; ri; ō All the standard ō ひっつみ -d ( ; 2-11 Ch ; 2-11 ūō

Information

; r per person with 2 meals from ¥8190; from 2 meals with ; r per person -ke -ke no Post Office Post no 11am-5pm) no Folk Village; look for the wooden sign no Folk ō Minshuku Magariya Magariya Minshuku ō ō ō 伊藤家民宿曲り屋民宿とおの you came to Tono to experience rural Japan to experience rural Japan you came to Tono this, a than you wouldn’t do much better 120-year-oldin the hills sur- farmhouse up and woods. Atrounded by apple orchards its centre is a large hearth where guests congregate for hearty country cooking. The timeold-fashioned tatami rooms look like capsules and when the sun sets and the enough to con- easy it’s shadows lengthen, jure up images of nefarious is located about 3km southwest of the train Rte 283 and atop a steep, grav- station off a taxi take a car, elly path – if you don’t have (around ¥1000). 6-10 Ch 6-10 train station, with bicycle rentals (¥1000 per Englishday), maps and free internet. www.city.tono.iwate.jp; www.city.tono.iwate.jp; T h It ( 8 ( S Minshuku T Minshuku ( produce and served communally. Bicycle servedand produce communally. T From is available. rental to the Nita- bound for Saka-no-shita a bus it’s there, minutes). From (¥290, 12 gai stop a 10-minute is clearly and the hostel walk, for the small (look the way signposted along at knee-level).wooden signs 8.30am-5.30pm Nov-Mar; Nov-Mar; 8.30am-5.30pm meals from ¥3500/6500; ¥3500/6500; from meals com; 2-17 Zaimoku-ch 2-17 com; over the sliding doors. are on the menu here, but the one to try is hittsumi hand-cut in hot broth. noodles and chicken The restaurant is in a dark wood, traditional (but new-looking) building adjacent to the T 9am-5pm Sat Has & Sun) an international ATM. Tourist Information Center ch lage, but this dignified station is the best.guesthouse) behind the with comfortable a quite spot tatami It’s on servingare keen rooms, and the owners up their home-brewed convenient places to bed down in T convenient sake) in generous portions.sake)

Ū (TŌHOKU) IWATE PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 28 29 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) IWATE PREFECTURE 1 2 $$ ( 5 8 ú # #þ 7 #ï 11 # ri; s/tw from ri; s/tw from ü ō D D

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þ ï Hospital...... D1 Center ...... A2 12) ï Dendenmushi...... (see Morioka New City Hotel City Hotel New Morioka ( 5 that Mori- note of noodles should take Fans oka has some seriously delicious, and unu- of servingsual, ways them. わんこそば wooden bowls, is morethe mouthful in tiny a competition you and thelike between waitress, who tries to refill your bowl faster to savour full. Prefer you’re than you can say the road from the station, this relaxed business hotel caters primarily for single travellers. Rooms are slightly cramped but more than adequate. ¥5670/9800; ¥5670/9800; moriokacityhotel.co.jp; 13-10 Ekimae-d 13-10 moriokacityhotel.co.jp; cated about eight minutes on foot east of the station (behind the large church).

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û ú ÿ Morioka æ 熊ヶ井旅館盛岡秋祭り 1 2 Morioka ( niW 4 Ryokan Kumagai Morioka Aki Morioka Matsuri ( dancers take to the streets,dancers take celebrating the banishment of an evil ogre that plagued the once upon a time.city com; 3-2-5 com; 16 September, portable shrines and colour- 16 September, ful floats are paraded to the rhythm of scattered about, Kumagai has a homey has a vibe Kumagai about, scattered and is very welcoming of foreign guests. The tatami rooms, surprisingly spacious, a wonderful are well-maintained and there’s iwa-buro shared facilities. The inn is lo- rooms have (Japanese drums). (Japanese

東北 (

8.30am- ATM (one shinkansen h h hoku hoku ri; ri; ō 604-3305; 604-3305; ō 盛岡中央郵便 -d % ( 9am-6.30pm magari. ( ūō Ō Sasaki Jitensha Jitensha Sasaki ; 10-2 Morioka Eki- h Dendenmushi hoku Expressway hoku ō T outpatient services 8.30am-outpatient ) Has English-speaking staff 9am-5pm) On the 2nd floor h W literally means ‘electric h hoku Information Center Information hoku ō between and Tokyo Morioka ) runs between and Tokyo the greater 佐々木自転車商会 ri; per ¥200/1000; hour/day ( ō 624-5353; 1-13-45 Ch 1-13-45 624-5353; Getting Around Getting Getting There & Away

kai % 625-2090; 625-2090; ō ri, 2nd Fl, Odette Plaza; ; Bicycles can be rented at Frequent trains run on the JR Akita dendenmushi ō % 局 and free internet. free and 7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat, to 7pm Sun) Sun) 7pm 9am-9pm to Sat, Mon-Fri, 7am-11pm ATM. international an Has Northern T ( 6pm), near Morioka Station. of Morioka Station; has English speakers and can help with booking accommodations. Tourist Information Center ride/day pass ¥250/600) tourist trolley – transmission bug’makes – a convenient loop around town, departing in a clockwise direction from stop 15 in front of Morioka Station (anticlockwise from stop 16) between 9am and 7pm. Sh The charmingly named BUS Regional buses depart from outside the west exit of the train station, and connect Morioka to Sendai (¥2850, 2½ hours) and Hirosaki (¥2930, 2¼ hours). Night buses for (¥7800, Tokyo 7½ hours) depart from the east exit. CAR & MOTORCYCLE If driving, you’re the 自動車道 Morioka area. TRAIN There are hourly trains on the JR T shinkansen (¥13,640, 2½ hours), and Morioka and Shin- Aomori (¥5770, hours). 1¼ line between Morioka and Akita (¥4300, 1½ hours) via Tazawa-ko (¥1780, 30 minutes) and Kakunodate (¥2570, 50 minutes). The local Tazawa-ko line runs the same route in about twice the time for around half the price; it may be necessary to transfer at 8 8 www.hellomorioka.jp; 1-1-10 Naka-no-hashi-d 11am, 1pm-4pm Mon-Fri) Morioka Central Post Office www.iwate-med.ac.jp/hospital/index.html; Uchi-maru; 19-1 Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Nov-Mar, closed 2nd Tue eachof month; mae-d

$ $$ CAFE jaja- NOODLES NOODLES . Fifteen NOODLES NOODLES HOMEWARES じゃじゃ岩手医 ( ( curtains on nanbu tekki nanbu (medium) or (medium) ū 9am-5.30pm Mon- 9am-5.30pm ch ri; wanko-soba from from ri; wanko-soba noren h ō ; jaja-men Lovedby locals, this ō ; coffee ¥350, beer ¥450; beer ¥450; ¥350, ; coffee wanko-soba ō 24hrs 651-5111; http:// Famished? Try notching Try Famished? (small), % ō ; 622-2252; www.wankosoba-azu- sh % ; 5-15 Uchi-maru; noodles from ¥400; ¥400; from noodles Uchi-maru; ; 5-15 ; 2-5 Konya-ch ; 1-2 Konya-ch ; 1-2 ; 11am-8pm) h

), udon-like noodles heaped with cu- heaped noodles ), udon-like and nothing else. Ordering is a breeze: else. Ordering is a breeze: and nothing Information Shopping This little hideaway on the banks of the hideaway This little

Morioka is known for its Morioka (large). When you’re finished, crack a (large). When you’re Pairon Honten Honten Pairon

11.30am-9pm Mon-Sat) 11.30am-9pm 11.30am-3pm, 5pm-11pm Mon-Sat, 12pm-5pm Mon-Sat, 5pm-11pm 11.30am-3pm, 白龍本店釜定本店ふかくさ東屋本店 cumber, miso paste and ground meat – mix meat – and ground miso paste cumber, spicy and oil vinegar, up and add all this to taste. garlic めん (cast ironware), notably tea kettles. There notably tea kettles. (cast ironware), are some beautiful examples at this vener- able old shop, along with some more afford- incense windchimes and able items, like holders. up your noodle-bowl count at this 100-year-up your noodle-bowl count old shop famous for bowls is a standard serving, but fifty is is not (and a hundred, or two, about average unheard of). can also order ordinary You single-servings of noodles downstairs. The restaurant is in a traditional building two blocks east of the Nakatsu-gawa. hole-in-the wall serveshole-in-the super tasty up men just ask for dai egg and the staff (¥50) into the bowl raw of that amazing will add hot soup and more miso paste. The restaurant is down the narrow lane directly across from Sakurayama- jinja; look for the white your left. Sat)

Sun) 8 Iwate Medical University Hospital 科大学附属病院 ( Kamasada Honten Kamasada Gozaku, the Nakatsu- the area just east of district, now merchant’s is the old gawa, home to craft studios and cafes. 7 ( h Fukakusa Fukakusa ( Azumaya Honten Honten Azumaya ( h o at your own pace? Try Try pace? own at your ¥2625; maya.co.jp; Naka-no-hashi-d maya.co.jp; Nakatsu-gawa is the perfect place to stop forNakatsu-gawa aftera pick-me-up or to unwind a long afternoon. Look for the ivy out front.

Ū (TŌHOKU) IWATE PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 30 31 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) AOMORI PREFECTURE line Expwy mon era ō 338 (HokkaidŸ) 9am-5.30pm 9am-5.30pm 338 Hashikami Hachinohe Excavation Shiriya-zaki ) Rokkasho h To Tomakomai Towada KankŸ Dentetsu Line Hon-Hachinohe ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE ARCHEOLOGICAL c IWATE 279 shinkansen Peninsula Shimokita PREFECTURE O C E A N

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Japan G (1235m) Sea of 101 Matsumae PREFECTURE Fukaura Shirakami-dake omori Prefecture Mutsu-Iwasaki HokkaidŸ 017 / POP 301,000 Aomori, the prefectural capital, is a stopo- to on their way ver point for travellers Hokkaid Aomori Aomori Aomori-ken ( Aomori-ken AOMORI PREFECTURE AOMORI A ern tip of Honsh ern tip by Mutsu-wan, Noheji-wan and Aomori- and Noheji-wan by Mutsu-wan, arm of the cradled in the wan, the bays This is a Shimokita Peninsula. axe-shaped car will a rental prefecture having where most re- up some of Japan’s really open exoticmote and wildly areas. The ethereal are around Osore-zan volcanic landscapes people come to commune where Aomori’s with the dead. The old cultural centre of and the verdant nature clinging to Hirosaki more are definitely the shores of Towada-ko rooted in this world. $ $$ 764- FLOATS MUSEUM MUSEUM % HOSTEL HOSTEL HOTEL HOTEL (1903–1975), (1903–1975), ; ō Center’ stop at Situated 3km ō 762-7500; www.ao- 762-7500; Besides being ex- ) ; www.nebuta.or.jp/ % ; This homey hostel ) ni gen Youth Hostel Youth gen Kinenkan Kinenkan ; www.nebuta.or.jp/english/ ; http://munakatashiko-muse- ō ō pni 9am-7pm May-Aug, 9am-6pm Sep- 9am-6pm May-Aug, 9am-7pm Held from 2 to 7 August, the Held h 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) 9.30am-5pm Even if you missed the festival, you if you Even da. Rooms are standard but the own- ) h ō Sleeping Festivals & Events c gen (¥590, 40 minutes, last bus 6:40pm ō 青森雲谷高原ユースホステル青森ねぶた祭りねぶたのいえワラッセ棟方志功記念館青森センターホテル can still gawk at the awesome craftsman- awesome at the can still gawk at this displayed floats Nebuta ship of the newwaterfront. museum on the On weekends there are performances of dancing and drumming here, too. Kenritsu-bijyutskan-mae (¥270, 20 minutes). (¥270, Kenritsu-bijyutskan-mae the Sannai Maruyama Site; city buses leav- buses city Site; Maruyama Sannai the ‘Menky stop 6 for ing from Apr; index_e.htm) um.jp/schedule_e.html; 2-1-2 Matsubara; admission Matsubara; 2-1-2 um.jp/schedule_e.html; ¥500; warasse/index.html; 1-1-1 Yasukata; adult/child adult/child Yasukata; 1-1-1 warasse/index.html; ¥600/250; Nebuta Matsuri has parades of spectacular Matsuri Nebuta illuminated floats accompanied by thou- chanting dancers. The pa- sands of rowdy, rades start at sunset on and last for hours; the action the final day starts around noon. most famous festi- As is one of Japan’s this vals, you’ll in need to book hotel rooms way advance. moricenterhotel.jp/index2.htm; 1-10-9-1 Furukawa; Furukawa; 1-10-9-1 moricenterhotel.jp/index2.htm; ¥4780/6900; from s/d Aomori Center Hotel Hotel Center Aomori ( 4 K Moya Aomori ( z Nebuta Matsuri Aomori ( Nebuta no Ie Wa Rasse Rasse Wa no Ie Nebuta ( Shik Munakata ( 2888; http://moya.jp; 9-5 Yamabuki, Moya; dm Moya; Yamabuki, 9-5 2888; http://moya.jp; discount YHA ¥3900/5600, 2 meals without/with ¥3300/5000; lies 12km south of the city on the road tolies 12km south of the city Hakk gar- of personal touches, like ers add plenty Buses den-fresh herbal tea brewed nightly. from stops 1 or 4 outside Hills for Moya at Moya Aomori Station can drop you off K 4:30pm on weekends). on weekdays, an Aomori native who won internationalan Aomori native who busfame in his lifetime. The shuttle city 20 minutes).stops at the museum (¥200, east of the station is this museum, whicheast of the station is this houses a collection of prints, paintings and Shik calligraphy by Munakata 1 2

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2 Aomori of the monsters from the iconic Ultraman The museum is adjacent to television show. Prefecture feature heavily in the permanentPrefecture feature heavily collection here, including pop icon Yoshi- Munakata print maker master tomo Nara, Shik 2nd & 4th Mon of month) 2nd & 4th Mon of h yama Iseki-mae’ (¥300, 20 minutes). yama Iseki-mae’ Art of Museum Aomori ( 6 for ‘Menky index.html; 185 Chikano, Yasuta; admission ¥500; admission Yasuta; 185 Chikano, index.html;

Ū (TŌHOKU) AOMORI PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH

66 66 33 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) AOMORI PREFECTURE

ﬆ ). ), ), 8am- ) runs da da トヨタレ ō h ( Ryokyaku Ryokyaku ō 766-4733; % ; 青森フェリーター東北自動車道 goron-to-shiito 722-4545; www.sii-line. 722-4545; % ; 津軽海峡 ( Toyota RentToyota a Car ō 青森港旅客船ターミナル 782-0100; http://rent.toyota.co.jp/ station. Pass; you can pay extra to up- to extra pay can you Pass; ights and depart from stop 11 in front % ﬂ ve hours) and (from Tokyo ¥8500, 9½ シィライン ; ﬆ ﬁ ( THE NIGHT TRAIN TO ) on the western side of the city – it’s a hoku Expressway ( ō ill running in Japan, Akebono books books Akebono Japan, ill running in Getting There Away & ights head to/from Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya

ﬂ without pillows or blankets, is ¥14,160 is ¥14,160 or blankets, without pillows and JR Pass the both by and is covered JR Ea ju of One cushier. something to grade sleeper trains old-school a handful of ﬆ up be reserved can Tickets out quickly. one month in advance. to AOMORI The JR Akebono sleeper train leaves leaves sleeper train Akebono JR The at evening every Tokyo in Station Ueno at 9.55am Aomori in and arrives 9.15pm through passing after morning, the next leaves The return Akita. and Niigata Ueno and pulls into at 6.22pm Aomori a basic for fare One-way at 6.58am. sleeper birth (called There’s a handy From stop 11, buses depart for Hakk Tsugaru Kaiky Tsugaru ンタカー (¥1070, 50 minutes) and Towada-ko (¥3000, seasonal highly schedules are bus hours); three winter. during infrequent and betweenand Tokyo greater Aomori. www.tsugarukaikyo.co.jp) operates eight daily ferries (year-round) between Aomori and Hako- date (from ¥2700, four hours). Ferries depart from Aomori Ferry Terminal ( ミナル 10-minute taxi ride from Aomori Station (around ¥1500). en/index.html; 104-79 Takama, Ishie; 10pm) outside the west exit of the Shin-Aomori shinkansen BUS JR highway buses connect Aomori to Sendai (¥5700, hours). CAR & MOTORCYCLE The T 8 AIR From Aomori Airport, 11kmsouth of the city centre, and many other destinations. Airport buses are timed for of Aomori Station (¥680, 40 minutes). BOAT Line Sii co.jp) ferries depart twice daily for Wakinosawa (¥2540, one hour) from Aomori-k Fune Terminal ( $ $ $$

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24hr HOTEL HOTEL MARKET MARKET ECLECTIC ECLECTIC % 752- ; 11am-8pm; outpatient outpatient station. % ; h 723-4670; 723-4670; h 8.30am-7pm) 8.30am-7pm) ) Has English- % h ; W 5am-6.30pm) 734-2500; http:// 734-2500; 723-1011; www.agh. 723-1011; h % % shinkansen ; ; 青森市民病院 (rice topped with scal- ( (annexe)are the nicest. 9am-6pm; 9am-6pm; (noodles). Open early, it’s it’s (noodles). Open early, h bekkan men ā ; Auga Building, Basement fl, 1-3-7 1-3-7 fl, Basement Building, Auga ; r A step up from a business hotel, the A step up from あおもり観光情報センター ) ; meals from ¥580; ¥580; from ; meals ( ō sanshoku-don Eating Information

Shinsen Ichiba Ichiba Shinsen Part of the city’s new waterfront develop- of the city’s Part ) 8.30am-7pm) Provides English-language English-language Provides 8.30am-7pm) 青森県観光総合案内所青森市観光交流情報センター新鮮市場青森グランドホテル Shinch Prefectural Tourist Information Counter On the second floor of the ( hotline 734-2171; Katsuda; 1-14-20 speaking staff. pamphlets, bus schedules and a city map. Shin-Aomori Station Tourist Information Center h Aomori City Hospital A-Factory A-Factory ¥880; from meals Yanagigawa; (1-4-2 v 6311; internet ¥100/10 minutes; 8 5 o ( niW Aomori Grand Hotel Hotel Grand Aomori ( cellent value, this individually-owned busi- individually-owned this value, cellent complex to an onsen is attached ness hotel Rooms in the for free. can use that guests newbrand Thethe Ao- with to be confused hotel (not is a 10-minute Hotel) mori Central from walk rates include breakfast. Aomori Station; ment, A-Factory is a bright, airyment, A-Factory foodcourt serving everything from sushi to galettes. Apple cider is brewed on the premises, and by the glass or the bottle. available services 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Mon-Fri) services 9am-5pm Aomori Station Tourist Information Center ( www.city.aomori.aomori.jp/contents/english/index.html; internet ¥100/ten minutes; also a good place to stock up on snacks for the next leg of your journey. mori is famous for a number of special- mori is famous for a apples, items including scallops, codfish, ity others many pickled vegetables and many, at this seafood andthat are laid out here, produce market. There are also a handful you can getof counter restaurants where a fresh lops, fish roe and sea urchin roe) or a hot bowl of en.aptinet.jp/index.html; 2nd fl, ASPAM Bldg, 1-1-40 Yasukata; co.jp; 1-1-23 Shin-machi; s/d from ¥6500/10,000; ¥6500/10,000; from Shin-machi; s/d 1-1-23 co.jp; Grand Hotel is two minutes from the train is two Grand Hotel an making station and a good bet if you’re early connection the morning. in ; $ 赤 HIKING 大岳 hoku and ō CAMPGROUND CAMPGROUND Compared dake ( dake da is a des- da Ropeway, da Ropeway, ō Ō ō A good spot to ) SKIING & SNOWBOARDING & SKIING p 738-6566; www.sukayu. 738-6566; % 9am-4.20pm) ; 1326m). da-san’s quintessential da-san’s ; ō h ; www.hakkoda-ropeway.jp; ; www.hakkoda-ropeway.jp; ; 1550m) and Akakura-dake ( ; 1550m) and Akakura-dake 田茂萢岳 Hakk da-san da-san ) , Tamoyachi-dake is fairly modest , Tamoyachi-dake ō ō late Jun-late Jun-late late Oct; da Ski Park da Ski Park 井戸岳 h ō Sleeping ; 1548m) before connecting to Tamoy- Activities Hakk After terminal stopping at the ropeway At its heart, however, Hakk At its heart, however, There are limited goods and services at 酸ヶ湯キャンプ場八甲田スキー場八甲田山倉岳 ( achi-dake follow the descend- for a quick pick-me-up, marshesing trail through wildflower-filled Arriving back atand rolling pasturelands. before nightfall, it’s Ryokan Onsen Sukayu beer and thetime to indulge in a post-hike obligatory muscle-relaxing soak. 5-time pass ¥4900; ¥4900; pass 5-time though purists prefer the magnificent one- magnificent the prefer purists though starts loop that day in Sukayu finishes and Ryokan. Onsen can be 12km in distance, and spans hike completed reward- in a gruelling but highly The the trailhead is right around ing day. Things Onsen Ryokan. Sukayu corner from start flat as you wind through out relatively marshlands, but eventuallythe pitch starts of to increase in the shadow 1584m). The ridge trail continues to Ido- ( dake jp/camp; per person ¥500, camp site fee from from fee site camp ¥500, person per jp/camp; ¥500; 4 Camping Ground Sukayu ( Hakk ( 2 o ( both winding intermediate trails. The long- cuts Course’, the 5km ‘Forest er of the two, through the tree line, and has a few steep and speedy pitches. tination for hardcore skiiers and boarders: possible to explore a net- come spring, it’s trails that extend to somework of unofficial conditions can of the nearby peaks. Weather so be severe easy, lost is though, and getting even experienced alpinists should go with a local; most area accommodations can arrange guides. building aside from equipmentthe ropeway rental (¥3500 per day). Hokkaid in scope. Theis that you can expect plus side frozen fir trees, piles of wet snow and scant official to no crowds. Thereare just two runs from the top of the Hakk with other ski mountains across T da- ō 9am- line line

ō ū ROPEWAY h ’s north- ’s ū futs minato Line. minato Ō u main line Ō (¥5340, two hours), ; www.hakkoda- ō 八甲田山 runs roughly every every roughly runs line run between Aomori da-san is home to one of ō ō express train on the JR (limited-express) trains on ū da-san shinkansen For anyone who wants a taste of anyone For kaisoku tokky ) ; 1324m). From there you can fol- From ; 1324m). ō p da Ropeway da Ropeway (local) trains on the JR da-san, which translates to ‘many

hoku hoku ū ō ō Sights ō Getting Around Getting

Today, most hikers tackle Honsh most hikers Today, hoku’s best onsen, Sukayu. best onsen, hoku’s Futs Frequent Frequent One daily minato Line connects Aomoriand Shimokita ō 八甲田山ロープウェー ernmost volcanic range between May and May ernmost volcanic range between the blistery winter months are Yet October. a great time for skiing and snowboarding. comfort if you do catch a chill, take in Even the fact that Hakk T san in the collective Japanese psyche. san in the collective Japanese hour from Station, Tokyo by way of Sendai and Morioka, to the terminus at Shin-Aomori Station (¥16,370, 3½ hours). connect Aomori with Shin-Aomori (¥180, 5 minutes) and Hirosaki (¥650, 45 minutes). A few daily Tsugaru limited-express trains run between Aomori and Akita(¥5450, 2¾hours) on the same line. Tsugaru-Kaiky JR the and Hakodate on Hokkaid via the Seikan Tunnel. ropeway.jp; one-way/return ¥1150/1800; one-way/return ropeway.jp; the alpine without having to brave the steep to brave the alpine without having quickly whisksascent, this scenic ropeway ( you up to the summit of Tamoyachi-dake 田茂萢岳 of hiking trails,low an elaborate network

Hakk ( 1 017 Hakk is a region of intense peaks and marshlands’, 1902, a In history. with a dark natural beauty soldiers training in regiment of 210 Japanese the winter weather were caught in a sudden and severe snow storm. All but 11 men perished, carving out a place for Hakk Hakk 8 Shuttle buses ride/day (one pass ¥200/500) circle the city connecting Shin-Aomori Station, Aomori Station, Aomori Ferry Terminal and most city sights. They may be less direct than regular municipal buses, but are the mosteconomical way to get around the city. The T TRAIN (local) train on the private Aoimori Tetsud (¥2120, hours). 1½ Otherwise, take a Ō and transfer at Noheji forthe JR 4.20pm; 4.20pm;

Ū (TŌHOKU) AOMORI PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 34 35 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) AOMORI PREFECTURE y HIKING \ #

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a r i O Nenokuchi SCENIC CRUISES SCENIC Utarube \ # Ishigedo ū Hotel \ # Ya k eya m a y Tourist Information Center Gokura-yama (690m) Hinemasu Sansō 103 N R û 102 05km 02.5miles N û # ÿ irase Keir irase O To get a sense of the To #ï \ # # e # Ú Towada- ko Grand Hotel jinja # ÿ 104 N û Towada- Hakka Pass c Ya s u m i ya # S 8am-4pm) This is marked meandering river ) 103 N û h Towada-ko ; Ground AOMORI AKITA- # ÿ ide Camping ide Towada-ko Sights & Activities Ta k i - n o- s awa Hotel O PREFECTURE Towada Oirase-gawa Oirase-gawa \ # PREFECTURE 454 N û 奥入瀬川十和田 Towada-ko lake’s enormous scale, you really need to enormous lake’s the docks in Yasum- the shoreline. From leave a couple of options for sceniciya, you have cruises, the best of which is the one-hour cir- (one and Nenokuchi cuit Yasumiya between roughly every ¥1400).way Boats leave hour There is also a from April to early November. year-round 40-minute loop-circuit (¥1400). by cascading waterfalls, carved-out gorges of gurgling rapids. Casual hikersand plenty stretch con- can follow its path for a 14km a small tourist outpostnecting Nenokuchi, to Yakeya- on the eastern shore of the lake, ma, from where relatively frequent buses re- (¥660, 30 minutes)turn to either Nenokuchi (¥1100, or the main tourist hub of Yasumiya one hour). The should only take entire hike you about three hours. Set out in the early the slow- morning or late afternoon to avoid moving coach parties. ( Towada-ko ( 1 o distance, yet developmentthe lake around for the main tourist hub is still sparse, save of Yasumiya. $$ $$ LODGE LODGE RYOKAN RYOKAN Right at ) (massag- (52km in (52km ū Plucked right Plucked ) pnW da Ropeway, this da Ropeway, p utase-yu ō (mixed bathing), through to Aomori da Ropeway-eki (¥1070, ō (woodblock print), Su- (woodblock 十和田湖

728-1512; www.hakkoda-sanso. 728-1512; 738-6400; www.sukayu.jp; r per www.sukayu.jp; 738-6400; konyoku ō % % ; ; shinkansen ukiyo-e da-sans ō Getting There & Away

Sukayu Onsen Onsen Sukayu It is rivaled in beauty by the Oirase-gawa, It is rivaled in beauty day bathing 7am-5.30pm; 7am-5.30pm; bathing day 酸ヶ湯温泉八甲田山荘 kayu’s cavernous bathhouse is a delight for bathhouse cavernous kayu’s Lookthe senses. dark wood, milky at the to the gurgle of thewater and steam; listen water; feel its penetrating heat or knead tired shoulders with its the bottom of the Hakk the bottom save for a lady’s hour in the morning and hour in the for a lady’s save evening. old-fash- the sprawling Rooms in comfortable,ioned inn are simple but with shared facilities. to rooms caters lodge with Japanese-style skiers and snowboarders. The dining area, with picture windows facing the mountain, does hot lunches, too. out of an smell the sulphur. ing stream of water); and relaxing here is hard to beat, On a cold day, note that thethough shy bathers should main bath is 0176 / POP 6000 erup- by a series of violent volcanic Formed is a roughly tions eons ago, Towada-ko circular hemmed in by rocky caldera lake of the coastlines and dense forests. Part it is Park, National Towada-Hachimantai in Honsh the largest crater lake Towada-ko 8 JR buses leave from stop 11 outside Aomori Sta- Hakk at stopping tion, 50 minutes) and the next stop, Sukayu Onsen (¥1300, one hour). The same bus continues on to Towada-ko-eki (1½ hours, ¥2020). Bus infrequent with seasonal, highly schedules are months. winter during departures circumference). the winding river that drains Towada-ko Ocean. The recent exten- into the Pacific sion of the put the area within easy strikingPrefecture Hakk ( ( h o pitch a tent with clean facilities and rental and rental facilities clean with a tent pitch a small the end of located at It’s supplies. of Sukayu south road immediately access Ryokan. Onsen com; 1-61 Kansuizawa, Arakawa; r per person with- r per person Arakawa; Kansuizawa, 1-61 com; ¥5250/9450; 2 meals out/with person with 2 meals from ¥10,650, baths ¥600; baths ¥10,650, from 2 meals with person min- TEMPLE is cen- ō 6am-6pm May- h 十和田湖総合 ( , overlook hills of ; 874m), a barren ; 874m), ō 8am-5pm) Next to the the to Next 8am-5pm) 恐山 h A number of the of A number ) p ; admission ¥500; ¥500; ; admission 75-2425; 75-2425; % This top of Os- holy shrine at the ) ; in Yasumiya have seen better days, days, seen better have in Yasumiya Sights & Activities Information Getting There & Away p

Osorezan-bodaiji Osorezan-bodaiji A limited network of local buses run around Rte 120 runs south of Aomori to Towada-ko. 恐山菩提寺案内所 shuku tatami has eight spotless this one. It but not of spreads and filling an onsen bath rooms, a 15-minute walk food. It’s home-cooked from the lake. Oct; Oct; 1 o ( Shimokita Peninsula 下北半島 0175 / POP 100,000 Remote, axe-shaped Shimokita-hant tred on Osore-zan ( volcano that is regarded as one of the most which Osore, sacred places in all of Japan. means fear or dread, is an appropriate name given that the peak is the stage for Buddhist With flocks of jet-black ravens purgatory. swarming about, and sulphur-infused tribu- not too hard to make it’s taries streaming by, the metaphysical leap. Towada-kohan; r per person without/with 2 meals meals 2 without/with person r per Towada-kohan; ¥4400/6500; Tourist Information Center JR buses run from Aomori, through Yakeyama (¥2240, two hours) to Towada-ko-eki in Yasum- highly departures are (¥3000, hours); iya three seasonal and infrequent in winter. the lakeside. Infrequent connections are reason enough to bring your own wheels. 8 8 bus station in Yasumiya, with English-language pamphlets. craggy, sulphur-strewn rocks and hissing craggy, According to ritual, visitors are en- vapour. couraged to help lost souls with their un- derworld penance by adding stones to the door- can even bathe on hell’s cairns. You step at the free onsen to the side as you approach the main hall. ore-zan is a somewhat terrifying, strangely in people atmospheric place that attracts mourning or those seeking to commune with the dead. Several stone statues of the Jiz child-guardian deity, $ $$ $$ $$ The ) HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL p MINSHUKU MINSHUKU CAMPGROUND CAMPGROUND 75-2368; www. 75-2368; % ; 75-2717; www.aominren.jp/ 75-2717; 75-1122; www.towada-hotel. 75-1122;

Has well-maintained fa- well-maintained Has ō ) % % p ; ; Hotel Hotel ū

This large hotel, which caters to the Sleeping ) Towada Hotel Hotel Towada

74-2121; www.oirase-keiryuu.jp; 231 Tochikubo, Tochikubo, 231 www.oirase-keiryuu.jp; 74-2121; You can also rent row boats and paddle and boats row also rent can You 25 Apr-5 25 Apr-5 Nov; 十和田ホテルひめます山荘十和田湖生出キャンプ場 % Oirase; r per person with 2 meals from ¥12,000; ¥12,000; from 2 meals with r per person Oirase; package crowds, lies near the trailhead for There hike. are both Japa- the Oirase-gawa rooms, in addition nese- and Western-style to a string of hot springs along the river. din- The standout feature is the cavernous ing hall, with picture windows edging the of panelled hard- forest and sloping eaves free transfer fromwood. The hotel offers reserve in Shin-Aomori Station (once daily, advance). bes.or.jp/towada/camp.html; 486 Yasumiya, Tow- Yasumiya, 486 bes.or.jp/towada/camp.html; ¥200; fee site camp ¥300 per person, ada-kohan; minsyuku/58himemasu.html; 16-15 Yasumiya, Yasumiya, 16-15 minsyuku/58himemasu.html; Himemasu Sans ( pW ( Oirase Keiry Oirase ( o h construction is a pre-WWII Hotel Towada lobby of hulking defined by its dramatic cathe- timbers that rise to a chandelier-lit dral ceiling. The historic main building has elegant, recently refurbished Japa- and without baths); rooms (with nese-style in the newer rooms annexe Western-style are comparatively lacking in character. views, there are and lake All rooms have communal baths looking out over the wa- too. A path leads down from the hotel ter, southwestern shore. secluded to the lake’s a car out here would cer- While having (timed for tainly be helpful, a hotel shuttle check-in and check-out) runs to and from reserve a seat the bus station in Yasumiya; when you reserve a room. Towada-ko Oide Oide Towada-ko Camping Ground (

Hotel rates can increase dramatically during rates can increase Hotel Octo- such as August and late peak periods blaze red. the leaves when ber, 4 com; Namariyama, Towada-ko, Kosaka-machi; r Kosaka-machi; Towada-ko, Namariyama, com; ¥14,700; from 2 meals with per person cilities and rental supplies. boats next to the dock. Note that inconsist- that nextboats Note the dock. to fol- patches (warm temperatures ent water in the swimming make by frigid ones) lowed dangerous. lake

Ū (TŌHOKU) AOMORI PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 36 37 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) AOMORI PREFECTURE $$

ō HOTEL HOTEL (lean (lean ve buses ve ﬁ raight raight ﬆ ; s/tw from ; s/tw from ma; maguro- ō akami Ō 23-7111; www.0175.co 23-7111; shops close up close shops ﬆ % A bit dated, but com- ) ma-taira, ma-taira, ; Ō (p 33 ) runs two to three fer- 33 (p ma (¥1990, two hours). There ma to Hakodate on Hokkaid ō n tuna) in Japan. At the At Japan. n tuna) in niW Ō Ō ﬁ (top-grade fatty tuna). tuna). fatty (top-grade minato Line connects Aomori and (blue -toro Ō ō 37-3691; 17-734 17-734 37-3691; Getting There & Away

% Tsugaru Kaiky minato Station (¥1800, 70 minutes). ; プラザホテルむつ , in the bright green building, does a does building, in the bright green , maguro departing from Shimokita Station for Osore- zan (¥750, 45 Year-round min). buses connect Shimokita and are a few buses daily to Wakinosawa from Ō fortable enough, this hotel is a two-minute fortable a two-minute enough, this hotel is walk from Shimokita Station. Look for the brick-coloured (but not brick) building. Book online for a discounted rate; breakfast is an extra ¥200. macaques. With the right bit of luck, theymacaques. With the right a fewcan help you track down furry little snow monkeys. The JR Ominato (¥2120, 2 hours), stopping at Shimokita (¥2120, hours); 1½ you may need to transfer at Noheji. 8 BOAT ) operates two daily33 ferriesSii Line between (p Wakinosawa and Aomori (¥2540, one hour). from daily ries BUS From May to October, there are up to TRAIN Plaza Hotel Mutsu Hotel Plaza ( .jp/plaza; 2-46 Shimokita-ch 2-46 .jp/plaza; ¥5500/11,600; (¥2200, hours). 1¾ erce. erce.

ﬁ and January, though mo January, and ﬆ $ ﬆ ie 海峡荘 ﬆ s and in favour of greater regulation to protect protect to regulation greater of s and in favour (

ﬆ ō s HOSTEL HOSTEL SPIRITUAL ō SCENIC CRUISE SCENIC sh the old-fashioned way, with hand lines and live bait bait and live with hand lines way, sh the old-fashioned fi el sh are enormous). It’s a way of life that sets them squarely them squarely that sets life of a way It’s enormous). sh are fi Kaiky 44-2341; www. % Host reet. ; ﬆ (medium-grade fatty tuna) and fatty (medium-grade 11am-3pm late Apr-early Nov) Apr-early late 11am-3pm h This standout hostel is ) a Youth a Youth -toro ū (tuna sashimi over rice) with thick melt-in-your-mouth cuts of of cuts with thick melt-in-your-mouth rice) over (tuna sashimi here are said to yield the ta to said are here ma, tuna is served literally sea-to-table, and you can see the locals barbecu- the locals see can and you sea-to-table, literally tuna is served ma, ch shing co-ops catch catch shing co-ops ﬆ Ō fi n population. n population. These two annual festivals (held These two fi pnW ) large-scale commercial intere commercial large-scale The western edge of the peninsula ﬆ ) sh heads on the sh heads ma’s ma’s fi Wakinosaw (mediums) in order to contact de- Here Here in Ō Tuna is caught fresh between late Augu late between fresh is caught Tuna the coa Sleeping Festivals & Events MA TUNA MA ma, at the tip of the Shimokita Peninsula, may look like the end of the earth, but it’s the the it’s but the earth, of the end look like may Peninsula, the Shimokita tip of at the ma, ff S the blue ing again (and a lot of muscle – these – these muscle of (and a lot peak of the season a prize catch can sell for ¥25,000/kg. ¥25,000/kg. for sell can catch a prize the season of peak by mid-November when the cold winds turn cold when the mid-November by o Ō Ō Tsugaru the of The frigid waters tuna. to when it comes universe the of centre maguro-don meat), red don ¥1000-2500; don ¥1000-2500; 脇野沢ユースホステル仏ヶ浦恐山大祭 is a spectacular stretch of coastline dotted with 100m-tall wind-carved which cliffs, Buddhas. Between are said to resemble sightseeing round-trip April and October, depart from Waki- boats for Hotoke-ga-ura and 2.55pm (¥3800, at 10.45am nosawa hours). Servicestwo are often suspended in poor weather. perched on a hillside at Wakinosawa vil- perched on a hillside at Wakinosawa lage, about 15 minutes west of the ferry pier – call ahead for a pickup if you don’t and Japanese- Both Western- a car. have all of dormitorystyle available, rooms are which are adorned with rich hardwoods and countryhelps furnishings. While it are the owners to speak a bit of Japanese, extremely accommodating. They’re also cata- naturalists who unofficially dedicated logue the movements of the local Japanese z Taisai Osore-zan ( ( o ( 4 Hotoke-ga-ura Hotoke-ga-ura wakinosawa.com; 41 Senokawame, Wakinosawa; Wakinosawa; 41 Senokawame, wakinosawa.com; breakfast/dinner ¥3300, discount YHA dm ¥3900, ¥525/945; from 20 to 24 July and from 9 to 11 October) July from 20 to 24 huge crowds who come to consultattract itako ceased family members.

) $ $$ $$ $$$ FLOATS HOSTEL HOSTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL RYOKAN RYOKAN ; s/d from from ; s/d ō pniW 33-7066; www. 33-7066; % ; 32-1515; http://breez- 32-1515; % ; From 1 to 7 August, 1 to From A very busi- affordable ) ) With its labyrinthine, late ) 32-9118; www.ishibaryokan.com; 55 32-9118; www.ishibaryokan.com; pni p % ; 37-0700; www.bestwestern.co.jp/hirosaki; www.bestwestern.co.jp/hirosaki; 37-0700; machi; s/d from ¥9000/16,000; ¥9000/16,000; from machi; s/d Sleeping Festivals & Events % Ō Ishiba Ryokan Ryokan Ishiba ; ベストウェスタンホテルニューシティ弘弘前ねぷたまつり弘前グランドホテル石場旅館ひろさきユースホステル ¥4300/6980; ¥4300/6980; bay-group.com/hirosaki-gh; 1 Ichiban-ch bay-group.com/hirosaki-gh; Not your typical installment of the interna- typical your Not is surpris- tional franchise, this Best Western also conven- and upmarket. It’s ingly stylish has Station, and to Hirosaki iently attached an excellent fitness centre. Tucked away on a side street two blocks on a side street two away Tucked this hostel is identi- south of the outer moat, fiable by the large ‘YH’ sign on the exterior. the price is Although it lacks personality, the smack in the middle of right, and you’re main sights. town’s 前 19th-century wooden building, this ryokan and the history has both the setting to go tatami the well-maintained high-end. Yet rooms, most of which overlook a small garden, are priced reasonably and the owners set a casual, warm vibe. English and French here, and there are bicyclesare spoken for about trekking and cul- rent, too. Inquire tural tours. Hirosaki Grand Hotel Hotel Grand Hirosaki ( Hotel Western Best City Hirosaki New ( o ( z Neputa Matsuri Hirosaki ( 4 Hostel Youth Hirosaki ( 1-1-2 Mototera-machi; r per person without/with meals without/with r per person Mototera-machi; ¥4725/7740; Hirosaki celebrates its Neputa Matsuri, fa- Matsuri, its Neputa celebrates Hirosaki illuminated floats paradingmous for the every eveningof the accompaniment to Theflutes and drums. is generally festival for ceremonial preparation said to signify expressing sentiments of bravery for battle, and of heartachewhat lies ahead for what lies behind. jyh.or.jp/english/touhoku/hirosaki/index.html; jyh.or.jp/english/touhoku/hirosaki/index.html; ¥3045) discount YHA 11 Mori-machi; dm ¥3645, ness hotel with good service, free breakfast and moderate-sized rooms, the Hirosaki Grand is within easy walking distance of the a fairly nondescript grey building castle. It’s – look for the large ‘G’ sign.

PARK A CASTLE TEMPLE 9am-4pm) CULTURAL BUILDING CULTURAL h 9am-5pm Apr-Nov) h 弘前 drums. There are also exhibi- This expansive public park ) en

Come here to see some of Hi- c ō -ji, the largest temple, which har- ō ; 61 Kamenoko-machi; admission ¥500; admission ; 61 Kamenoko-machi; ; hoku’s principal cultural centres. hoku’s ō taiko ō -ji ; admission ¥300; ; admission ; admission ¥300; ; admission sh ō

ō Sights sh

ō 9am-5pm) ねぷた村長勝寺弘前城弘前公園 Although it faded in prominence afterAlthough it po- shiftedlitical power Hirosaki to Aomori, many and graceful, with remains elegant older structures still intact. The town is castle grounds, completecentred on with and highlighted and towers, extant keeps of majestic cherryby its beautiful canopies also servestrees. Hirosaki as a convenient spiritual trek up point for the jumping-off Iwaki-san. bours the oldest wooden building in Aomori and rows of mausoleums built forPrefecture clan. the rulers of the Tsugaru rosaki’s Neputa floats and try floats and Neputa hand at your rosaki’s the giant a short walk from tions on local crafts. It’s the Bunka Center stop on the Dote-machi Loop Bus. At the heart of the park lie the ancient remains of this castle, which was originally only constructed in 1611. Rather tragically, 16 years later the castle was struck by light- centuries ning and burnt to the ground. Two on, one of the corner towers was rebuilt, and it presently contains a small museum hous- ing samurai weaponry. has been shaped over the centuries by threehas been shaped over the by overhang- castle moats, and landscaped ing cherry (there are more than 5000 trees late April or earlyin total) that bloom in a 20-minute walk from Hirosaki It’s May. Loop the Dote-machi Station, or take Bus (¥100, which stops in front of 20 minutes), the park. ( h Neputa Mura Neputa Mura Ch ( Hirosaki-j (

Hirosaki-k ( 1

Established in the feudal era by the Tsugaru the Tsugaru feudal era by in the Established remainstown of Hirosaki historic clan, the one of T Hirosaki 0172 / POP 181,000 10-minute ruins walk southwest of the castle brings you to an atmospheric temple district redolent of feudal times. The focus here is on Ch

Ū (TŌHOKU) AOMORI PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 38 39 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) AOMORI PREFECTURE 1 2 3 $$ # £ 4 Hirosaki 14 #ï 6 66 # ÿ # › 11 FOOD STALLS STALLS FOOD D D ý # 16 1 15 # ›

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; www.kadare.info; 2-1 Hyakkoku- 2-1 ; www.kadare.info;

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A A 6 (sampler) set of three. Paper lan- (sampler) set of three. Paper A variety of set meals and a pic- ; # ÿ

Kadare Yokochō...... Kadare B2 Kikufuji...... C3 Manchan ...... B3 Hirosaki Grand Hotel...... B2 Hirosaki Youth Hostel ...... A3 Ishiba Neputa Mura...... B1 Neputa City New Hotel Western Best Hirosaki-jō...... A1 Hirosaki-kōen ...... A1 Eating & Drinking & Eating 1 7 5 3 2 Sleeping 8 Eating Sights 9 6 4 ZENRIN-

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‚ (11 Chōshō-ji To 菊富士 5pm-9pm) terns and folk music add atmosphere with- ture menu make sampling the local cuisine sampling the local ture menu make also an extensive list a breeze here. There’s which you can tryof Aomori sake, in an otameshi ( 5 Kikufuji Sakamoto-ch 1 3 Hirosaki

666

66 66 弘 ( -kado; -kado; CRAFTS ) ō ), and ), ) Offers free 9am-6pm) 9am-6pm) op; two op; two W ﬆ 暗門の滝 h ; 18-1 Kita ( ; 弘前市観光案内 ering to the ering to ō ( ff 鳥ノ海山 (lacquerware of the ), a UNESCO- ), u main line run be- ( er-zone’, the part of of the part er-zone’, Ō ff ; 1625m). In mid- ; 1625m). . 弘前郵便局 8.45am-6pm; 8.45am-6pm; op Aqua at Anmon 37-5501; www.en-hirosaki.37-5501; ATM servicesATM 8am-9pm Mon- ( ﬆ make an o make ﬆ kan (tourism building). (tourism kan h 白神山地 % ō h ﬆ ( ; r ; Anmon-no-taki on the JR Tanaka-ya deals in high-grade Tanaka-ya 岩木山 ō fi ū ( tsugaru-nuri ; www.tugarunuri.jp; Ichibanch ; www.tugarunuri.jp; Tori-no-umi-san tokky 26-3600; Getting There & Around Information Shopping

remote, and spectacular, nature. nature. spectacular, and remote, % 10am-7pm) ; ﬆ ). The entire 9km hike should take you you should take hike 9km The entire ). Iwaki-san 田中屋 Kawarake-ch com; 2-1 Shimo-shirogane-ch 2-1 com; 前市立観光館 Hourly tween Aomori and Hirosaki (¥1460, 35 minutes), and Hirosaki and Akita (¥2520, three hours). Hirosaki Sightseeing Center Information 8 7 Tanaka-ya ( h local artisan work. Thecheap, prices aren’t it’s to buy, not looking but even you’re if worth stopping in for a peek at the boldly coloured region), produced in-house. Tsugaru 8 Fri, 9am-7pm Sat Has & Sun) an international ATM. Tourist Information Center 所 internet access. internet Inside the Kank the Inside Office Post Main There’s an English sign out front. Call ahead There’s for reservations caters well for for- – the staff eign guests. ). After peaking at the summit, you can can you the summit, at peaking After ).

$ 5- Shirakami-sanchi 岳温泉 ( h CAFE CAFE hoku’s mo hoku’s machi; art. ), with ō Ō ﬆ LIVE MUSIC LIVE shamis- (grilled 岩木山神社 the smaller peak of of peak the smaller ( ikamenchi ﬆ Among Hi- hoku. Once a ō Dake-onsen op to Iwaki-san Jinja (¥690, 40 minutes). From Dake-onsen, Dake-onsen, From 40 minutes). Jinja (¥690, Iwaki-san op to ﬆ 日向ぼっこ ( of Japanese beech trees. From the bus From beech trees. Japanese of 36-1835; 1-2-4 1-2-4 36-1835; of which measures 42m. This is part of the ‘bu the of This is part 42m. which measures of ﬆ % ﬆ ; 11am-6:30pm) is a three-stringed lute). curtains, is particularly Iwaki-san Jinja Iwaki-san hotate misoyaki hotate h of Iwaki-san is the isolated is the isolated Iwaki-san of ﬆ erent trail down, pa down, trail erent noren ﬀ 35-4663; 36-6 Dote-machi; coffee & coffee 35-4663; 36-6 Dote-machi; Hinata-bokko % shamisen ;

Southwe From early April to late October there are up to eight buses daily from platform 6 at platform daily from eight buses up to are there October late April to early From Tradition dictates that summit-bound travellers should travellers that summit-bound dictates Tradition Entertainment Come here to listen to the distinct Live House Yamauta Yamauta House Live

around 6½ hours, which means that you can easily summit Iwaki-san on a day trip from trip from on a day Iwaki-san summit easily can that you which means 6½ hours, around enough an early get if you Hirosaki protected virgin fore virgin protected Village, an hour-long trail leads into the woods to the three the three to the woods into leads trail an hour-long Village, the Hirosaki Station bus the Hirosaki the park that is open to the public without permit. the public without permit. that is open to the park through May From one hour). (¥1010, Hirosaki to back daily eight buses up to are there (one-way/return Village Aqua Anmon in the morning for buses two are there October, Station bus 6 at the Hirosaki platform from leaving 1½ hours), ¥1600/2400, trip in the afternoon. the return make buses waterfalls, the talle waterfalls, follow a di follow of the village to eventually guardian god at god guardian September, area farmers gather for the Oyama-Sankei, an annual group pilgrimmage by by pilgrimmage an annual group the Oyama-Sankei, for gather farmers area September, a bountiful harve for pray they where the peak to moonlight up Soaring above the city is the sacred volcano of of volcano the sacred is the city above Soaring IWAKI-SAN & SHIRAKAMI-SANCHI & IWAKI-SAN T of some to is the gateway Hirosaki (Tsugaru is the old name for western is (Tsugaru ライブハウス山唄万茶ン twang of the thick-stringed Tsugaru of the thick-stringed Tsugaru twang Aomori; en rosaki’s numerous coffee shops, this one has numerous coffee rosaki’s business since 1929, In the longest history. said to be the oldest in T it’s hangout for the local literati, it’s now a love- hangout for the local literati, it’s special- ly spot to sample another Hirosaki apple pie. Look cello for the bifurcated ity, out front. music charge ¥800, dinner course from ¥3000; from dinner course ¥800, music charge

o ( 3 recommended; the mother and daughter team here turn out excellent renditions of local dishes like the orange and fried, ¥400). (minced squid battered Manchan ( hangout. 11pm, music at 7.30pm & 9.15pm, closed alternate alternate closed & 9.15pm, music at 7.30pm 11pm, Mon) dessert sets ¥800; sets dessert Nightly performances include traditional folks songs and spirited solo improvisation. The dinner course is a good deal, but you can also just sit at the counter with a drink. scallops in miso; ¥600) and

Ū (TŌHOKU) AOMORI PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 40 41 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) AKITA PREFECTURE LAKE Shi- one inn. one inn. ﬆ access makes it makes access 田沢湖 shinkansen ), yet swimming is a frigid 白浜 ect is magical. ect is magical. ﬀ ( Tazawa-ko has a sandy beach, has a sandy Tazawa-ko ) s in another time, using oil lamps using oil lamps time, s in another Sights ﬆ ation and catch the free shuttle bus. shuttle bus. the free ation and catch A 20km perimeter the road wraps around ﬆ 田沢湖 rahama proposition outside the balmy summer balmy proposition outside the of boats can rent all manner months. You the during Kohan in the town of Tazawa spring, A summer and autumn months. at sunsetstroll by the lake is a treat at any and is the preferred activity for time of year, couples. On the romance-seeking Japanese a landmark, eastern shore is Tazawa-ko’s bronze statue of legendary Tatsuko, beauty Yasutake. sculpted by Funakoshi which is perfectlake, for a slow drive or a in ride – rentals are available vigorous bike There per hour). are (¥400 Kohan Tazawa Sta- also a few daily from Tazawa-ko buses that loop around the Kohan tion or Tazawa stopping for 15 minutes to admire thelake, statue of Tatsuko. Tazawa-ko 0187 / POP 12,900 lake. deepest is Japan’s Tazawa-ko At 423m, Its convenient a popular summertime The escape. nearby excellent views of the lake mountains offer ski- including of activity, and four-seasons ing. 1 Tazawa-ko (

0172-54-8588; www.yo.rim.or.jp/~aoni/index.html; www.yo.rim.or.jp/~aoni/index.html; 0172-54-8588; % . ; ﬆ from civiliation but also from the present. the present. from civiliation but also from Akita-bijin ﬆ x). x). , literally ‘lamp inn’, exi ‘lamp inn’, literally , ﬁ ) -sanmyaku and-sanmyaku line from Hirosaki to Kuroishi (¥420, 30 minutes, six daily); six daily); 30 minutes, (¥420, Kuroishi to Hirosaki line from ū ō p 青荷温泉ランプの宿 ( ars come out over the valley, the e the valley, out over come ars

(adult/child ﬆ . Winters are snowy, yet particularly ambient (and the cold is nothing is nothing ambient (and the cold particularly yet snowy, are Winters . ream, crossed by a footbridge. There are four baths in all, including a in all, baths four are There a footbridge. by crossed ream, ﬆ nan Tetsud (¥300, 9am–4pm) is available ō rooms and baths are spread out over several small wooden buildings along buildings small wooden several out over spread are and baths rooms ﬆ rotemburo ) is shaped by the O ead of electric bulbs to light its rooms and wooden corridors. The proprietors here here The proprietors corridors. and wooden rooms light its to electric bulbs of ead Onsen is an unrivalled retreat. At low- Tsugaru free pass nan buses connect with arriving passengers for Niji-no-ko (¥750, 30 minutes), from from 30 minutes), (¥750, Niji-no-ko for with arriving passengers connect nan buses Aoni Onsen is located alongside Rte 102 between Hirosaki and Towada-ko. If you If you Towada-ko. and Hirosaki between 102 Rte alongside is located Onsen Aoni Rampu-no-yado

The gue day bathing 10am-3pm; 10am-3pm; bathing day ō ﬆ one t ō ū don’t have a car, you’re going to have to work to get out here. By public transport, take take public transport, By out here. get to work to have to going you’re a car, have don’t K the private K through December From daily). four 30 minutes, (free, Aoni run to shuttle buses where if vehicles; private to is closed Onsen Aoni to lane that winds down the narrow March, bus at the Niji-no-ko park car, by coming you’re a mu are reservations Advanced It’s the ultimate escape, not ju not escape, the ultimate It’s h AONI ONSEN has ju Onsen Aoni spring, hot isolated but seriously atmospheric, seriously A 1-7 Aoni-sawa, Taki-no-ue, Okiura, Kuroishi; r per person with 2 meals from ¥9600, baths ¥500; ¥500; baths ¥9600, from with 2 meals r per person Kuroishi; Okiura, Taki-no-ue, Aoni-sawa, 1-7 in the sun As a simpler age. to back you and transport reality your suspend to hard work and the down goes a of sides both ﬆ can’t long soak that a good The The The Dote-machi Loop Bus (¥100 per ride), rental Bicycle AKITA PREFECTURE AKITA ¥2000/1000) covers area buses and trains, including those headingout to Iwaki-san and Shirakami-sanchi, fortwo consecutive days. Enquire at the Tourist Information Center. which makes a circuit around downtown, leaves from in front of Aomori Station. at either tourist information centre from May through November. Japan’s sixth-largest prefecture, ( Akita-ken Japan’s 秋田県 Dewa mountain ranges. These soaring peaks and even the region isolated, long kept have of development is sparse. Mountains, today and skiiers,course, are good news for hikers more idle pursuits:but also for those with hot- peaks shelter remote, rustic Akita’s the best in the coun- springs that are among with neighbouring Tazawa-ko, Paired try. Ny sprung uper altitudes, towns and cities have in fertile valleys, including the prefectural of Kaku- capital of Akita, and the feudal city nodate, a storehouse of samurai culture. The the most beautifulregion is also said to have the so-called women in Japan, (Akita beauties). 107 (55km) Aspite Line Hwy To TŸno

ChŸjŸ

Ny¥tŸ-zan (1478m)

Line Hachimantai Yasumiya

Akita Komaga-take (1637m) JR Hanawa JR

Tazawako Ski Park Towada-ko MIYAGI IWATE u k a y

Kazuno

National Park PREFECTURE Towada-Minami m n a s - ¥ O (1366m) Yake-san Iwate-san (2038m) PREFECTURE Kosaka Towada-Hachimantai 341 Tazawa-ko wy Yokote Kakunodate Jindai Hanawa Ny¥tŸ Onsen Kazuno- Yuzawa

Hachimantai Ogachi

Iori e

Hachimantai TŸhoku Exp ±magari

46 Lin TetsudŸ Line TetsudŸ Tamagawa Onsen

Tazawa Kohan 7

Tazawa-ko Kosaka ain ain Hachimantai-san (1613m)

(45km)

13 Line M u To Aomori Akita

Expwy

Akita-Nairiku J¥kan TesudŸ Line 13 ± JR ±date Tazawa-ko Youth Hostel 00 20 miles km 40 Akita Shinkansen KyŸwa Takanosu 108

105 JR ±u Main Line Main ±u JR 13 Takanosu Nishisemboku Yuri KŸgen ChŸkai Line Yashima Hirosaki Akita Kawabe AKITA Airport Futatsui Akita Ugo-HonjŸ PREFECTURE Yamagata (97km)

Yotsugoya

ain Line ain YAMAGATA

Oiwake PREFECTURE Uetsu M Uetsu To Dewa Sanzan (70km); 7 JR (2236m) 7 Shirakami-sanchi GojŸme ChŸkai-san HonjŸ (40km) Line u Line 7 To Tsuruoka

AOMORI ± Akita-kŸ Oga 7 PREFECTURE 101 Noshiro Nikaho TennŸ

GonŸ Line Kisakata Sakata 101 Oga Monzen

Hadachi

Sea of Japan Tsuruga kita Prefecture kita wan To Tomakomai Ny¥dŸ-zaki Toga- To Niigata; Oga Peninsula A

Ū (TŌHOKU) AKITA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 42 43 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) AKITA PREFECTURE $ HOSTEL HOSTEL ory adds Onsen stop at A few minutes ﬆ 43-1281; www.jyh. 43-1281; ) ō t % ū p ) with Tazawa-ko. ; Onsen (¥650, 45 ō t 8.30am-5.30pm) Inside Inside 8.30am-5.30pm) ū h (¥530, 30 minutes). ō -j and Tazawa-ko microbrews. and Tazawa-ko ī 秋田自動車道 forever, she imbibed so much much she imbibed so forever, ﬆ 43-2111; 43-2111; men ā % r ( Onsen’s excellent ryokan. Onsen’s Sleeping ō Information Getting There & Away t

ū that she was transformed into a water a water into transformed that she was the of version One dragon. THE LEGEND OF TATSUKO OF LEGEND THE beauty, local has it that a Rumour in the lake long inhabited has Tatsuko, that the Believing a dragon. of the form her youthful make would spring water la looks another dragon, formerly a prince, as a prince, formerly dragon, another nocturnal Their passionate her lover. that be the reason to said are antics in the winter! freeze doesn’t Tazawa-ko In the winter months, buses leaving the winter months, buses In Buses also run to Ny 田沢湖ユースホステル walk from the lake, this rambling hostel has this rambling hostel walk from the lake, clean, functional tatami rooms, an onsen bath and filling, meals. home-cooked or.jp/yhguide/touhoku/tazawako/index.html; 33-8 or.jp/yhguide/touhoku/tazawako/index.html; ¥3290, discount YHA dm ¥3890, Kami-Ishigami; ¥650/1050; breakfast/dinner 8 Folake 8 CAR & MOTORCYCLE If driving, you’re Rte 46 connects the Akita ( Expressway BUS Frequent local buses run between JR Tazawa-ko Station and Tazawa Kohan (¥350, 10 minutes), the tourist hub on the eastern shore of the lake. 4 can also electin one of to bed down You Ny Hostel Youth Tazawa-ko ( minutes). Note that these services terminate after sunset. There are three large cafeteria-style eateries serving sta- the usual fast-food-leaning specialities such as ples in addition to local ginger for equipment rental is available Full ¥3500 per day. for Ny Station Tazawa-ko Suk Tazawako the train station; tourist information and free internet.

ō t ū HIKING Onsen, ō t ū ) unmanned SKIING & SNOWBOARDING & SKIING ; 1637m). ; www.snowjapan.com/e/ ride from Tokyo. The pow- ride from Tokyo. 男女岳 me (eighth station) by takingme (eighth station) by Onsen. Straddling the border with border with the Straddling ) ō 阿弥陀池避難小屋 ō ; 1583m). The trail descending t ; 1623m). ū Akita’s largest winter-sports des- Akita’s 横岳男岳 shinkansen Activities Akita Komaga-take Komaga-take Akita From here, you should press on to the here, you should press on From Trails are evenly divided between begin- are evenly divided between Trails find English-language signs on You’ll On the second day, it will take you about it will take On the second day, You can access the trailhead at Komaga- can access You Dec-Apr) 秋田駒ヶ岳たざわ湖スキー場 spotlight/tazawako.html; 1-day lift tickets ¥3800; lift tickets 1-day spotlight/tazawako.html; der accumulates here over 13 runs that wind and overlook the down Akita Komaga-take nearby shores of Tazawa-ko. intermediate and advanced levels. How- ner, they tend to be a bit on the shorter ever, side with the exception of the 1.6km-long and Shirakaba runs. Six lifts do aKokutai to a the queues reasonable job of keeping relative minimum, but it can get busy here on peak weekends. the mountains and in the restaurants. tination is just a little more than a three- tination is just a little hour h Tazawako Ski Park Ski Park Tazawako ( o ( 2 mountain hut; it’s recommended that you recommended mountain hut; it’s can also dou- a small tip (¥1000).leave You or so and scale O-ble back for 20 minutes ( dake seven hours to descend to Ny eastern edge of the oval-shaped pond below, pond below, eastern edge of the oval-shaped Hi- the Amida-ike and claim your space at nan Goya ( though not without first summiting Yoko- ( dake Iwate Prefecture, this mountainous area is area this mountainous Prefecture, Iwate fall its summer wildflowers, admired for rare prevalencefoliage and dry of both and to days two wetplant species. If you have course pursue a 17km-long spare, you can in a in three peaks, overnights that takes picturesque hut and finishes up mountain with a rewarding healing wa- soak in the ters of Ny one of seven depart daily buses (all before Station (¥1000, 1.30pm) from Tazawa-ko station, it should the eighth one hour). From the summit to reach you an hour or two take ( of Oname-dake and follows the ridgeline most of the way, eventually through expansive winds marsh- life.lands that harbour all manner of avian The circuit stop for Ny ends at the bus Onsen, which signals that your hot bath is just ahead. take Hachig take

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p ō t ū RYOKAN RYOKAN RYOKAN RYOKAN day bathing 10am-3pm 10am-3pm bathing day 角館 h – or samurai district – is What Taenoyu lacks in his- lacks in Taenoyu What ) consists of orderly mansions 0187-46-2214; www.kuroyu.com; 2-1 2-1 www.kuroyu.com; 0187-46-2214; day bathing 9am-4pm May-Nov; 9am-4pm May-Nov; bathing day 0187-46-2740; www.taenoyu.com; www.taenoyu.com; 0187-46-2740; rock-lined springs and indoor rock-lined springs and % h % ; pW ; Sights Getting There & Away buke yashiki buke

Taenoyu Taenoyu 黒湯温泉妙乃湯 At the streamside Kuroyu, you’llAt the streamside Kuroyu, easily feel wood- you’ve stepped into a Japanese like tradition datingblock print. With a bathing is famous Kuroyu back more than 300 years, spring that is saidfor its hydrogen-sulphide diabetesto ease high blood pressure, and arteriosclerosis. Don’t miss the waterfall jets, of water onto your which send cascades rooms shoulders and back. Japanese-style are fairly standard, though the forest setting is the stage for a relaxing retreat. Kuroyuzawa; r per person with 2 meals from ¥11,700, ¥11,700, from with 2 meals r per person Kuroyuzawa; ¥500; baths 1 There are half a dozen villas open to the public, which line a street shaded by cherry trees a 20-minute walk northwest of the Kakunodate Kakunodate 0187 / POP 13,000 Established in 1620 by Ashina Yoshikatsu, Kakunodate clan, the lord of the Satake and presents Kyoto’, is known as ‘Little a thoughtful, immersive experience for interested in catching a glimpseanyone of the samurai era. While the castle that once guarded the feudal town is no more, the ( Buses run from JR Tazawa-ko Station to Ny splendidly preserved. A veritable living mu- the culture and history, seum of Japanese yashiki buke surrounded by cherry trees and manicured gardens. S ( Onsen Kuroyu 8 Wed-Mon; Wed-Mon; Onsen (¥650, 45 minutes). 2-1 Komagatake; r per person with 2 meals from from with 2 meals person r per Komagatake; 2-1 ¥700; baths ¥12,855, tory, it more than makes up for in style. This up for in style. more than makes it tory, boutique ryokan sophisticated specialises in sleeping quartersrefinement: are framed by and elaborate furnishings,rich hardwoods wild meals are built around and locavore op- on the grounds. Bathing plants foraged private including tions are comprehensive, cypressfamily onsen, reclining mixed tubs, rotemburo, relaxation pools.

, see ō t ū RYOKAN RYOKAN The most rotemburo ) shinkansen p (sunken hearth) (sunken (crane) healing its , Tsuru-no-yu has , Tsuru-no-yu ō t irori ū (light cotton kimono) (light cotton tsuru 0187-46-2139; www.tsurunoyu. 0187-46-2139; % yukata ; Onsen or mixed-sex baths (when it comes or mixed-sex baths (when ō t

is one of Japan’s choicest hot springs, is one of Japan’s Sleeping ū ō t Tsuru-no-yu Onsen Onsen Tsuru-no-yu

ū Today it’s fortunately common- open to it’s Today day bathing 10am-3pm Tue-Sun; Tue-Sun; 10am-3pm bathing day Several hourly trains on the Akita 鶴の湯温泉 com/english.html; 50 Kokuyurin, Sendatsuizawa; r Sendatsuizawa; 50 Kokuyurin, com/english.html; ¥500; baths ¥8500-15,900, with 2 meals per person h ( o For a complete list of ryokan in Ny For 4 www.nyuto-onsenkyo.com/english/index. html. Ny and a must-visit for any aspiring onsen aficio- and a must-visit for any nado. The area is home to no fewer than seven character. rustic ryokan, each with a different that are great for an healing waters All offer also have soak. Many away-from-it-all konyoku Ny certainly aren’t shy!). to bathing, the Japanese JR Tazawa-ko Station is located few a kilometres southeast of the lake, and serves as the area’s accessmain point. TRAIN line run between Tazawa-ko and (¥15,240, Tokyo three hours), and between Tazawa-ko and Akita (¥3280, 55 minutes) via Kakunodate (¥1560, 15 minutes). wounds in the spring, and reported the for- tuitous discovery to his lord. The hot spring bathhouse was soon designated the official ruling elite. of the Akita clan’s Theers and nobles alike. mixed is positively jubilant, though shyer folks can refuge in the indoor sex-segregatedtake baths. Accommodation is extremely varied, six-mat tatami roomsranging from tiny that share bathrooms to compartmentalised suites that open up to the forest. Regardless of where you bed down, the evening hours distinguished by hearty are a nostalgic affair over the meals cooked and guests in dining and socialising by lantern light. Giv- fame, it is recommended that en the onsen’s you book well in advance. been in the business for almost four centuries. The reason for its enduring fame is the mineral-rich spring containing sulphur, sodium, calcium chloride and carbonic acid, which combine to form a distinctive According to local lore, colour. milky-white a a hunter once saw storied onsen in Ny

Ū (TŌHOKU) AKITA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 44 45 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) AKITA PREFECTURE $$ OSSOMS TRADITIONAL one are up to (drooping ﬆ ained ganban- CHERRY BL CHERRY ﬆ BOUTIQUE HOTEL HOTEL BOUTIQUE , or , Tamagawa 52-1700; www.buk- 52-1700; % While it’s only been While it’s ) ; buke yashiki buke (wooden carts) for to pray (wooden pi day bathing 7am-5pm; bathing day shidare-zakura ganbanyoku 1.1 – and to undergo undergo 1.1 – and to h From 7 to 9 September, fes- 7 to 9 September, From ) ﬆ yama On the river embankment, a 2km ) hoku’s central volcanic plateau, plateau, volcanic central hoku’s ō Sleeping Festivals & Events 田町武家屋敷ホテル角館の桜角館のお祭り in business for a few decades, you can eas- samurai passing ily imagine travel-worn through the wooden gate here. The structure is designed to resemble a traditional stretch of cherry trees becomes a tunnel mid-April and earlyof pure pink between Some of the May. cherry) trees in the Kakunodate O-matsuri Kakunodate ( 4 that rates rise during peak seasons, Note such as when the cherry blossoms bloom. Bukeyashiki Tamachi Hotel ( z Sakura Kakunodate ( tival participants haul around enormous seven-tonne peaceful times, accompanied by folk music for 350 years.and dancing – just as they have eyashiki.jp; 23 Tamachi; r per person with 1/2 meals r per person Tamachi; 23 eyashiki.jp; ¥11,125/15,750; from of covering household or decorative items inof covering household or fine strips of cherry bark. This pursuit was up by lower-ranking and master- first taken less samurai in times of hardship. 300 years old, and were originally brought from Kyoto. The The erent sort of onsen culture. People don’t come come don’t People culture. onsen of sort erent MUSEUM MUSEUM a week, or more. Far from a resort, the the a resort, from Far or more. a week, ﬀ 0187-58-3000; www.tamagawa-onsen.jp; Shibukurosawa, Shibukurosawa, www.tamagawa-onsen.jp; 0187-58-3000; ﬆ % rangers, breathing in the heady, sulphuric air, you can can you sulphuric air, in the heady, breathing rangers, retch out on reed mats on the rocks heated by the by heated on the rocks mats out on reed retch ; ead they come for the purported healing properties of of properties healing the purported for come they ead ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ HISTORIC BUILDING HISTORIC ion of a di ion of ﬆ acidic in the country, with a pH of ju with a pH of country, acidic in the which is the craft ﬆ itutional. ﬆ 玉川温泉旅館 ; 10-1 Omote-machi; admis- Omote-machi; ; 10-1 ; www.samuraiworld.com/ (

Built in 1809, this was the ; 1 Omote-machi; admission ; 1 Omote-machi; kabazaiku, 9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov- 4.30pm to Apr-Oct, 9am-5pm h kan kan 9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar) to Apr-Oct, 9am-5pm 9am-5pm) ) at the ryokan. ō is downright in is downright h h From late April through November, buses leave from Tazawa-ko Station for Tamagawa Tamagawa Station for Tazawa-ko from leave buses November, April through late From Steam literally rises from the ground here, which is a big part of the draw: in between in between the draw: of part which is a big here, the ground from rises literally Steam ) rict bathing regimens that can la that can regimens rict bathing Inside you’ll Inside find exhibits and demon- yoku Onsen (¥1420, 1¼ hours). You can purchase reed mats (required to use on the use to (required mats reed purchase can You 1¼ hours). (¥1420, Onsen feel your body temperature gradually rise to near feverish in about half an hour (at in about half an hour feverish near to rise gradually body temperature your feel a break). take which point it is time to ﬆ underwater springs and sweat it out under blankets – a natural – a natural it out under blankets and sweat springs underwater soaks, bathers (fully clothed) (fully clothed) bathers soaks, with head-to-toe Lying sauna. Onsen Ryokan Onsen p TAMAGAWA ONSEN T Hachimantai, of in the heart location remote its With here to relax and enjoy the mountain scenery; it’s a barren, rocky wilderness wilderness rocky barren, a it’s scenery; the mountain and enjoy relax to here Tamagawa Onsen is a ba Onsen Tamagawa In in patches. yellow egg-yolk the water – it’s the mo – it’s the water Tamagawa; r per person with 2 meals from ¥8300, baths only ¥600; baths ¥8300, from with 2 meals per person r Tamagawa; 角館樺細工伝承館武家屋敷石黒家角館歴史村青柳家 ¥300; residence of the Isihiguro family, advisers family, residence of the Isihiguro one of the oldest clan, and it’s to the Satake buildings in the district. of the A descendant family still lives here, but some rooms are addition to samurai open to the public. In don’t miss the weathered maps and the gear, precision scales for doling out rice. sion ¥300; english/index.html; 3 Omote-machi; admission 3 Omote-machi; english/index.html; ¥500; Mar) ( Kakunodate Kabazaiku Kabazaiku Kakunodate Densh Bukeyashiki Ishiguro-ke Ishiguro-ke Bukeyashiki ( Kakunodate Rekishi-mura Rekishi-mura Kakunodate Aoyagi-ke ( train station. The ones are more elaborate set mini museums; others are simply up like left as they to were, and are free for visitors peek inside. Aoyagi family compound is impressive in its own right, but inside each well-maintained structure is a fascinating exhibition of family heirlooms. The collection spans generations and includes centuries-old samurai folk art and valuable antiques weaponry, along with gramophones and classic jazz records. strations on run PARK , shinkansen , 3km 3km , 角館町観光協 ( see www.akita- see ka minshukuka ō ﬆ n this sprawling commer- this sprawling u main line. 9am-6pm mid-Apr–Sep, to to 9am-6pm mid-Apr–Sep, Ō (traditional Japanese store- Japanese (traditional h ay/minshuku/iori.html; 65 ay/minshuku/iori.html; aying in a in aying kura ﬆ en ﬆ Originally constructed in 1604, ō ) 秋田 -k ū . For a complete li a complete For . shinkansen, 54-2700; 54-2700; Sights Information Getting There & Around

% ; Infrequent local trains also run on the JR Bicycle rentals are available across from the magari to the JR 千秋公園会 Akita’s castle was destroyed with other feu- castle Akita’s ‘enlightenment’. dal relics during the Meiji 5.30pm Oct–mid-Apr) Pick up English maps maps English up Pick Oct–mid-Apr) 5.30pm here, outside the station in a small building a shaped like Sensh ( Akita Akita 018 / POP 336,000 The northern terminus of the aptly dubbed Akita 1 centre few sights are in the city Akita’s near the train station, so you can easily get around on foot. Tourist Information Center Several hourly trains on the Akita and prefecturalcial city of the capital is one principal transport most Like hubs. region’s contemporarycastle cities, it was once a town, in this case the seat of power of the clan.Satake 8 8 house). between Kakunodate and Tazawa-ko (¥1560, 15 minutes), and between Kakunodate and Akita (¥2940, 45 minutes). Tazawako line between Kakunodate and Tazawa- ko (¥320, 20 minutes), and between Kakunodate and Akita (¥1280, hours), 1½ with a change at Ō train station for ¥300 per hour.

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ō $$ Ō p ka minshukuka crowds, consider consider crowds, ō look ﬆ n HOTEL HOTEL NOODLES NOODLES SHOKUD (hashed (bamboo) 11am-5pm; Kakunodate’s Kakunodate’s 0187-55-2262; www.akita-gt.org/ 0187-55-2262; h % 52-2438; 11-1 Kami- 11-1 52-2438; ; 53-2070; www.folk- 53-2070; % buke yashiki; buke 庵 ; % takenoko ( (large perilla leaf). This standard, but

) ; (Japanese-style West- (Japanese-style ba hayashi raisu hayashi 10am-4pm) ō Iori elds. It helps to have your own wheels, but you can arrange pickup from pickup from arrange can but you wheels, own your have to helps It elds. h ﬁ shoku ō pniW y 53-2902; 9 Higashi-katsuraku-ch 53-2902; ay. served with %

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Akita’s countryside has dozens of of has dozens countryside Akita’s Eating oor cushions. How much you take part in life on the farm is up to you: Iori can be your be your Iori can you: is up to on the farm in life part take much you How oor cushions.

, Tamachi; meals from ¥1050; ¥1050; from meals Tamachi; , gt.org/ FARMHOUSE INNS the touri from away get to want If you base for exploring Kakunodate, a peaceful retreat or a chance to get your hands dirty in in hands dirty your get to or a chance retreat a peaceful Kakunodate, exploring for base or the kitchen Station. Kakunodate north of Kakunodate Station, is part of a working family farm. It’s a spare building rebuilding a spare It’s farm. family a working of is part Station, Kakunodate north of Japanese pure The look is cabin. a comfortable turned into have the owners which ally, and indigo mats tatami fresh beams, and dark wood walls with whitewashed country, ﬂ Maeda, Ogata, Kakunodate-machi; r per person without/with 2 meals ¥4500/6000) 2 meals without/with person r per Kakunodate-machi; Ogata, Maeda, a farmhouse inn. inn. a farmhouse ō 西宮家レストラン北蔵古泉洞フォルクローロ角館 beef on rice) that would have been in voguebeef on rice) that would have when the structure was built. Nishi-no-mi- the station and the between is halfway yake sightseeing district. ch noodles from ¥1050; ¥1050; from noodles This sprawling former residence houses aThis sprawling restaurant in a century-old to- warehouse, dinerswards the back of the complex. Here sit under hulking wooden rafters, tucking into classic ern food) dishes like ( Nishi-no-miyake Nishi-no-miyake Kita-kura Restaurant

( 5 Kosend Folkloro Kakunodate Kakunodate Folkloro ( villa, but is fully stocked with modern amen- villa, but is fully stocked and Western ities. Rooms, both Japanese are simply elegant with dark woodenstyle, in comparison,beams and paper lanterns; meals are luxurious affairs. most historic lunch spot is this Edo-era wooden schoolhouse. The is house speciality buke-soba and tempura-fried nicely-maintained business hotel gets points location next to the trainfor its convenient station and its free breakfast spread; it loses a few for charging nearly ¥2000 extra for a nonsmoking room. loro-kakunodate.com; Nakasuga-zawa 14; s/tw from s/tw from 14; Nakasuga-zawa loro-kakunodate.com; ¥6615/11,340; It’s in the middle of the It’s for the wooden sign above the entrance.

Ū (TŌHOKU) AKITA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 46 47 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) AKITA PREFECTURE

$ taiko HOTEL HOTEL bath, LANTERNS This small, hinoki ) pni 832-4570; www.hotel-naniwa. 832-4570; ; www.kantou.gr.jp/english ri; r per person without/with 2 without/with ri; r per person %

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11 12 10 ï ï Akita æ ÿ ú û 秋田竿燈まつりホテルなにわ Akita Bank, this brick Renaissance struc- Akita Bank, this brick ture, built in 1912, is now a folk museum. you’llInside, find fascinating woodblock prints of traditional Akita life by self-taught artist Katsuhira Tokushi. /index.htm) family-run hotel has a variety of tatami with private others tiny; rooms (some teeny sinks and toilets). It also outdoes itself with extras: a beautiful 24-hour massage chairs and filling meals made with the owners’ home-grown rice. Look for the red building with a wooden entrance. ( 4 Hotel Naniwa ( z Akita Kant drumming groups. ebrates the visually stunning Pole Lantern ebrates the visually stunning Pole evening When falls on the city Festival. centre, more than 160 men skilfully balance giant poles, weighing 60kg and hung with illuminated lanterns, on their heads, chins, hips and shoulders, to the beat of jp; 6-18-27 Nakad jp; 6-18-27 meals from ¥2625/5250; from meals

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66 66 Akita’s most famous painting, Tsu- Akita’s 8 ú # 1 # â 秋田県立美術館赤れんが郷土館 1 3 2 Akita guharu F then, centre. Until museum in the Naka-Ichi a peak inside and a rest visitors can have in the second floor cafe, from where the re- flecting pool seems to run directly the into palace moat. reputed to be the world’s largest canvas reputed to be the world’s painting. It measures 3.65m by 20.5m and depicts traditional Akita life throughout the this work and September 2013, seasons. In Masakichi others from the former Hirano are slated to move into theirBijutsukan sleek new this And home, Akarenga Ky Akarenga ( Akita Museum of Art of Akita Museum ( The moat still guards the entrance to this it be- leafy park; though hardly sinister, with giant waterlilies in sum- comes choked There are also a few of the castle pieces mer. foundation remaining, of along with plenty grassy patches and strolling paths. A reconstruction of a guard tower in the north cor- views over the city. ner offers 4.30pm) -6pm) ed/ak; 3-3-21 3-3-21 ed/ak; .jp/art-museum; free during preopening; during preopening; free .jp/art-museum; ; ; ( ri; ri; ō 新日 hoku hoku ( 秋田自 ō run ( ) runs south outpatient outpatient (¥420, 30 h ō 秋田市観光案内 ( 秋田駅前郵便局 shinkansen Nihonkai-T 秋田赤十字病院 ( ( Shin Nihonkai Shin Toyota RentToyota a Car , (from ¥4400, 10 hours) ō ō ATM 9am-4pmATM Mon-Fri, to Akita Expressway . h 9am-7pm) Opposite the Opposite the 9am-7pm) ū ; 833-0100; 4-6-5 Naka-d ri; ri; h ō 日本海東北自動車道 ( tracks on the 2nd floor of Akita 880-2600; www.snf.jp) runs ferries to ) runs east from Akita until it joins with 832-7941; www.akitafan.com/language/ 832-7941; hoku Expressway. The % ; ō Getting There & Away Information ights head to/from Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya,

ﬂ % 8am-10pm), a few minutes walk west from 24hr hotline 829-5000; www.akita-med. ; One bus runs at 6.05am from platform 11 You canYou pick up a car at Frequent buses leave from platform 1 in front cafe servescafe lunch and smoothies up tasty into a hip little it morphs Come night, plates. 7pm) Heart- (5pm to happy hour During bar. just ¥390. goes for land beer en/index.html; en/index.html; Tomakomai on Hokkaid on Tomakomai leaving at 7am on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. outside Akita Station to Akita-k minutes), 8km northwest of the city. Expressway along the coast. トヨタレンタカー動車道 the T TRAIN Hourly trains on the JR Akita h BOAT From the port of Akita-k BUS Highway buses depart from the east exit of the train station, and connect Akita to major cities throughout Honsh between the northern terminus of Akita and the southern terminus (¥16,810, of Tokyo four AIR From Akita Airport, 21km south of the city centre, Hiroshima, Sapporo and many other destinations. of Akita Station for the airport (¥900, 40 minutes). CAR & MOTORCYCLE If driving, you’re the Akita Eki-mae Post Office % 8 8 4-11-14 Naka-d 4-11-14 12.30pm Sat) Sat) 12.30pm Akita Red Cross Hospital shinkansen Station. Akita Station. Akita jrc.or.jp; 222-1 Nawashirosawa; Nawashirosawa; 222-1 jrc.or.jp; services 8am-11.30am Mon-Fri) Mon-Fri) services 8am-11.30am Tourist Information Center 所本海 $ $$ $$ $$ CAFE HOTEL HOTEL Sample NOODLES NOODLES ) 884-0055; JAPANESE JAPANESE , a filling v % ; ri; s/d from from ri; s/d (thin wheat BUSINESS HOTEL HOTEL BUSINESS ō 834-1141; www. 834-1141; ; http://spica- % ri; s/d from ¥5600 from ri; s/d ō ; It may not look It may ) By day, this colourful By day, 11.30am-11pm Tue-Thu, to Tue-Thu, 11.30am-11pm h 11am-10.30pm; 11am-10.30pm;

kiritanpo nabe kiritanpo ō h inaniwa udoninaniwa pniW Remarkably stylish for a busi- stylish Remarkably sha Cafe & Bar & Bar sha Cafe ri, lined with restaurants andri, lined with restaurants ) This upmarket traditional ; www.kanbun5.jp; 1-4-3 Naka-dori; 1-4-3 ; www.kanbun5.jp; ō 862-0802; http://akitaotafuku.com; http://akitaotafuku.com; 862-0802; ō ) and vegetables and in a chicken % machi; hotpot dishes from ¥2520; ¥2520; from machi; hotpot dishes ; Ō niW

Eating & Drinking & Eating

11.30am-2pm, 5pm-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 5pm- Mon-Fri, 5pm-10.30pm 11.30am-2pm, ri; drinks from ¥500; ¥500; from ri; drinks ō 秋田キャッスルホテルお多福リッチモンドホテル秋田駅前スピカ旅行社カフェ＆バー寛文五年堂 travel.com/cafe_bar/cafe_bar.html; 5-4-18 Naka- 5-4-18 travel.com/cafe_bar/cafe_bar.html; d restaurant does good renditions of classic local dishes like hotpot of kneaded and grilled rice (the kiritanpo soy-sauce broth. Courses, though pricey, soy-sauce broth. Courses, though pricey, simplify ordering and include Otafuku’s famous pickles. ness hotel, the Richmond also has a conven- Richmond also has a ness hotel, the station and the the in between ient location can varysights. Prices though, so it’s wildly to book ahead online.a good idea 10.30pm Sat) 10.30pm noodles from ¥900; ¥900; from noodles www.richmondhotel.jp/en/akita/index. Naka-d 2-2-26 php?lang=en; /7800; /7800; castle-hotel.co.jp; 1-3-5 Nakad 1-3-5 castle-hotel.co.jp; ¥7500/11,000; ¥7500/11,000; 1am Fri & Sat, to 6pm Sun) to & Sat, 1am Fri Spica Ryok Spica ( h Otafuku Otafuku (

bars, both classic and seedy, is the city’s is the city’s seedy, bars, both classic and picnic lunch, a For principal nightlife strip. stop by the supermarket in the new Naka- centre. Ichi Gonend Kanbun (

5 Kawabata-d ( Akita Castle Hotel Hotel Akita Castle ( Richmond Hotel Hotel Richmond Eki-mae Akita like much from the outside, but this is the much from like If you can lock in classiest hotel in town. a bad deal not it’s a discount rate online, The makeover rooms got a stylish either. ones overlook the castle the nicest in 2011; moat. delicate, fresh shop.noodles) at this popular speciality They’re particularly refreshing on a hot day served cold with soy sauce and sesame dip- dishes are available; ping sauces. Vegetarian ask before ordering. The is part restaurant shopping centre. of the Naka-Ichi 4-2-25

Ū (TŌHOKU) AKITA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 48 49 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) YAMAGATA PREFECTURE

) $ $$ INN INN MASKS pW – per- HOTEL HOTEL 25-7678; 25-7678; 24-7662; www. 24-7662; % ( rotemburo % ; A cut above the other ) on the JR Uetsu main line run ū pi 22-1202; 2-35 Hiyoshi-machi; r per per- r per Hiyoshi-machi; 2-35 22-1202; tokky % On 25 May, people stroll around in stroll around people May, On 25 ) ; Sleeping Festivals Events & Information Getting There & Away

10am-5pm Nov-Feb, 9.30am-5.30pm 9.30am-5.30pm Nov-Feb, 10am-5pm There are a few daily buses between Tsuruoka 東京第一ホテル鶴岡天神祭奈良館 tdh-tsuruoka.co.jp; 2-10 Nishiki-machi; s/d from from s/d Nishiki-machi; 2-10 tdh-tsuruoka.co.jp; ¥8662/12,075; A traveller favourite for years, Narakan has for years, Narakan favourite A traveller with shared bathboth simple tatami rooms rooms with bath. The and Western-style and delicious. meals are filling home-cooked along the main five minutes south Head street leading out from the station; the inn, will be on chimney, distinguished by a tall your left. masks and costume serving and costume masks and keep- sake ing an eye friends and acquaintanc- out for es. The object it through the festi- is to make you. Manage recognising val without anyone lore years running and local this feat three claims you’ll luck for the rest of good have your life! Mar-Oct) To the right as you exit JR Tsuruoka Tsuruoka JR exit you as right the To Mar-Oct) Station; you can book accommodation here and it has information about Dewa Sanzan. son without/with 2 meals from ¥3885/6300; from 2 meals without/with son TRAIN A few daily between Tsuruoka and Akita (¥3820, hours), 1¾ and between Tsuruoka and Niigata (¥4330, 1¾ 8 Tourist Information Center h 8 BUS Buses leave from in front of Tsuruoka Station and from the bus depot at S-Mall for Haguro village (¥800, 35 minutes). Pick up a bus schedule at the Tourist Information Center. and Yamagata (¥2400, hours), 1¾ though services are often cut back during winter. Tokyo Daiichi Hotel Tsuruoka Tsuruoka Hotel Daiichi Tokyo ( z Matsuri Tenjin ( 4 Narakan ( business hotels around the station, this one has comparatively spacious and styl- is the rooftop onsen better ish rooms. Even complete with sauna and the huge, yellow fect soak. It’s for a post-hike brick building, connected to the shopping centre S-Mall.

山形 MUSEUM Onsen, ō nai plain, magari magari ō Ō yamabushi kabuto-zukuri . ō -shinmachi; admission ū Founded in 1950 by Founded ) nai in order to preserve p ō 鶴岡 en, the site of the former ō ; 10-18 Kach ; 10-18 Hakubutsukan-mae stop (¥260, Hakubutsukan-mae ō 9am-4.30pm; 9am-4.30pm; Hakubutsukan Hakubutsukan each day on the JR Uetsu line connecting h Sights & Activities ō ū The southwest corner museum is on the ) is a land of mountains. Its most famous ) is a land of mountains. Infrequent local trains also run on the JR u main line between Akita and Kakunodate 致道博物館 ¥700; ¥700; local culture, this museum features Sakai- buildings, a family artefacts, Meiji-era two traditional storehouse and a the former Lord Sh 10 minutes). (a farmhouse with a thatched roof shaped a samurai helmet).like of Tsuruoka-k walk for about can either Sakai castle. You Sta- 15 minutes southwest from Tsuruoka a bus from stop 1 – frequenttion, or take Onsen pass by buses bound for Yunohama the Chid Chid ( 1 Tsuruoka, in the middle of the Sh in the middle Tsuruoka, was established by the Sakai clan, one of most important families. feudal Yamagata’s in the pre- the second-largest city it’s Today, point for thefecture and the jumping-off mountains of Dewa Sanzan. Downtown is a bite to eat or sleepy; if you need pretty snacks for the road, try shopping the S-Mall centre, a few minutes on foot from the station. Tsuruoka 0235 / POP 136,000 peaks are the three sacred ones that make ones that make peaks are the three sacred up Dewarevered Sanzan, by YAMAGATA PREFECTURE literally means ‘moun- As its name (which ( suggests, Yamagata-ken tain shape’) 県 But it (mountain ascetics) alike. and hikers Za like is also a land of hotsprings, and chal- lake with its a dramatic caldera the temple lenging ski slopes. Yamadera, enchanting has been perched atop a cliff, them the leg- visitors for centuries, among endary poet Bash traveling Ō (¥1280, hours), 1½ with a change at hours) via Tazawa-ko (¥3280, one hour) and Kakunodate (¥2940, 45 minutes). to the JR Tazawako line. Finally, there are a few tokky Akita with Niigata (¥7020, 3¾ hours). 4 347 349

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Ū (TŌHOKU) YAMAGATA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 50 51 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) YAMAGATA PREFECTURE . ), ; ad- San- ; www. 別院 Ni-no- and re- ( 月山神社 SACRED MOUNTAIN SACRED mochi ( ), a vivid red

sprawls over sprawls ; tea sets ¥700; ¥700; sets ; tea Betsu-in (powdered green (powdered 出羽三山神社 (

marks the halfway halfway marks the ), a weather-beaten, weather-beaten, ), a ; eighth station), the ; eighth station), where ; ninth station) in 1¾ matcha 三神合祭殿 dawn-dusk) ( during his pilgrimage here. during his pilgrimage Gassan-jinja 二の坂茶屋 ō h 5am-5pm, July to mid September) July to 5am-5pm, 五重塔 ( 八合目八合目九合目 ( ( h (

ō ( me me saiden ō ō ō me Accessible from July to September, to September, Accessible from July ō -no-t ) g ū ū An ancient teahouse known as known teahouse An ancient If you’re completing the circuit, your only If you’re

Perched on the summit is the tiny, yet on the summit is the tiny, Perched From here the pilgrimage route presses here the From Dewa Sanzan-jinja Dewa 8.30am-5pm Apr-Nov) 8.30am-5pm 月山 the trail to the top of Gas-san picks up again;the trail to the top of Gas-san just after 2pm.note that the last bus leaves the night at the you can stay Alternatively, atmospheric Saikan. five-storey the 14th dating from pagoda century. hall that enshrines the deities of all three hall that enshrines the mountains. bus – most of theoption from here is the the ridgeline toold 20km pilgrim trail along Gas-san was left after to grow over a road was built in the 1960s. Catch one from the parking lot beyond the shrine bound for Hachig point. Stop in for setspoint. Stop in of filling detourtea). If you to the right, you’llcome ruins of upon the temple vitalising bowls of vitalising bowls visited by Bash Goj mission ¥500; ¥500; mission Gas-san (1984m) is the highest of the three the trail head at sacred mountains. From Hachig hours, and then grinds uphill for another 1¼ hours. deeply spiritual route passes through an alpine plateau to Ky dewasanzan.jp; dewasanzan.jp; saka-chaya Gas-san Gas-san ( h the summit of Haguro-san, intermingling intermingling the summit of Haguro-san, heartwith the cedars. At its is the shin G on towards the steep descent to Yudono-san. on towards the steep descent to Yudono-san. This another three hours or so, and takes you’ll lad- rusty to carefully descend have sides, and pick your ders chained to the cliff down through a slipperyway stream bed at the end of the trail. To enter the shrine, you’ll first need to un- To dergo a ritual purification: bow your head to benediction, then brush receive the priest’s yourself from head to toe with the slip of it afterwards placing in the fountain. paper, Beyond the gate, visitors traditionally make a circuit of the inner shrine; note that pho- inside. tography is not permitted いで (

, a folk -minami, -minami, has ex- ū ō running running ū with their SACRED MOUNTAIN SACRED futs 9am-4.30pm Apr-Nov, Apr-Nov, 9am-4.30pm 出羽三山 h yamabushi, The Narrow Road to the the to Road Narrow The 62-4727; www.tsuruokakanko. 62-4727; , culture, though there is lit- ō % ; Ideha Bunka Kinenkan (1689) . During the annual pilgrimage ō The 2446 stone steps to the top of The 2446 ) Sights & Activities yamabushi Haguro-san Haguro-san Matsuo Bash Matsuo Of course, it is the Dewathe collective Sanzan is title for At the base of the mountain in Haguro At the base of the mountain in Haguro The climb, which begins by passing 羽黒山 Deep North Deep hibits that cover the history of the mountain and tle in English. through the torii gate and over the bridge, En route you’ll pass a leisurely hour. takes Dewa Dewa Sanzan com/haguro/kankou/ideha.html; 7-2 Inj 7-2 com/haguro/kankou/ideha.html; ¥400; Haguro-machi; ( o 1 dictates that you start at Haguro- Tradition can do the You san and finish at Yudono-san. pilgrimage in the opposite direction, though to Gas-san the ascent from Yudono-san would be painfully steep. religion that draws from both Buddhismreligion that draws and Shint white-clad pilgrimsseasons, you can see sandals and staff, equipped with wooden equipped hat, and fleece-clad hikers straw and bandana. with poles, waterproof boots 0235 crescent shining, cool it is, a pale ‘How hollow of Haguro-san.’ above the dark three sacred peaks – Haguro-san, Gas-san three sacred peaks – Haguro-san, believed – which are to rep- and Yudono-san resent birth, death and rebirth respectively. been worshipped for they have Together of Shugend centuries by followers chequered jack- unmistakable conch shells, ets white pantaloons, that and voluminous the ancient traditions alive. Whetherkeep stomping along precipitous trails or sitting under icy waterfalls, these devoted mountain men embrace severe ascetic exercises to discipline both body and spirit. hours). There are alsoa few daily on the same line between Tsuruoka and Akita (¥2210, 2¾ hours). Haguro-san (419m) have been worn smooth (419m) have Haguro-san and low by centuries of pilgrims. The moun- it the most popu- easy access makes tain’s lar of the three peaks, particularly with day trippers. village, the 9.30am-4pm Dec-Mar, closed Tue Sep-Jun) Tue closed Dec-Mar, 9.30am-4pm は文化記念館 $$ $$ $$ At HUT HUT LODGE LODGE Taiken Taiken CULTURAL ō This airy ) gy ū p TEMPLE LODGE LODGE TEMPLE closed Oct-Jun) closed (temple lodging) (vegetarian Bud- (vegetarian ō h ri and curry rice, can ō ) in Haguro village ) in Haguro 51 sho apprentice, the Ideha Ideha the apprentice, soba ō mobile 090-2367-9037; r per r mobile 090-2367-9037; 54-6131; r per person with 2 r per person 54-6131; closed Nov-Apr; Nov-Apr; closed lunches spreads (¥1,575- shukub sho ; Yamabushi Sh ; Yamabushi jin ryjin ri % % h ō ō ō ; ; sh For those who are happy being are happy those who For 62-4727; [email protected]. 62-4727; jin ryjin 62-2357; r per person with 2 meals ¥7350; ¥7350; with 2 meals r per person 62-2357; % yamabushi ō % sh ; Saikan Saikan Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping S Located at the top of Haguro-san, this is Located top of Haguro-san, at the Meals are Meals Hot dishes, like dishes, like Hot ) 御田原参篭所斎館山伏修行体験塾湯殿山参籠所 dhist cuisine) with foraged mushrooms and mountain vegetables. Saikan can also pre- pare 3,150); reserve3,150); in advance. Bunka Kinenkan (p Bunka Kinenkan runs a three-day coed mini-course in Sep- runs a three-day includes fasting,tember that mountain calls. Phonemorning wake-up sprints and book at about dates and ahead to enquire in advance. Theleast a month course fee is ¥29,800. Jyuku; mountain lodge at the bottom of Yudono-san of Yudono-san mountain lodge at the bottom has a hot bath and is full of jovial pilgrims celebrating the completion cir- of their multiday in case you’ve and fish are on offer cuit. Meat of beer and sake.been missing it, as is plenty meals from ¥7350; ¥7350; from meals yamagata.jp) Midahara Sanr Midahara ( Sanr Yudono-san ( o ( p Yamabushi Study Experience Experience Study Yamabushi ( 4 in order from Sleeping options are listed start Haguro-san–Yudono-san to finish of the pilgrimage route; reservations are a must. the most famous at Dewa Sanzan. The approach skirts past an imposingtowering trees and through a secluded temple.gate before arriving at The grand sweep of grounds overlook the the building itself has while valleys below, been weathered by the ages and is imbued with an air of stoic grandeur. person with 2 meals ¥7350; ¥7350; with 2 meals person just a just a the eighth station on Gas-san, this mountain place to break up thehut is a convenient are laid Futons long three-mountain hike. out in one big communal room and there’s but the vegetarian meals are no shower, filling and the close quarters conducive for up to catch the sun- swapping stories. Wake rise and you’ll to the peak be on your way before the tour buses arrive. also be ordered here, until around 3pm.

) in sho sho, ō 仙人 ō ō ( HARVEST gy RELIGIOUS RELIGIOUS ū 6am-5pm, 6am-5pm, perform h ren-ji. SACRED MOUNTAIN SACRED Yudono-san- ū miko sh miko ; 62-2355; fax 62-2352) 62-2355; fax Sennin-zawa yamabushi and Ch % ō Yudono-san Sanr Yudono-san yamabushi. ; admission ¥500; ¥500; ; admission 神子修行 ), which is marked by a torii), which is marked . Thissacred shrine is not perform on 31 ancient fire rites Aki-no-mine; ; Accessible from May to October, to October, May from Accessible )

湯殿山神社 ( Courses Festivals & Events

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ō From here, you have a number of options:have here, you From To finish the pilgrimage, it’s a mere finish the pilgrimage, it’s To ) bus stop. 湯殿山参籠所秋の峰入湯殿山 early September. Neither are for the faint of Neither early September. is use- heart, and some command of Japanese ful. Reservations of May; begin the last day sign up early to reserve a spot. The course fee women. for men, ¥35,000 for is ¥40,000 similar rituals to those at the Hassaku Mat- similar rituals to those at the Hassaku suri in competition with each other after completing 100-day-long austerities. ( 沢 Sanr spend the night at Yudono-san and is adjacent to the catch a direct bus back to Tsuruoka, or take catch a direct bus back to Tsuruoka, a detour to Dainichib a building, a monumental rock but rather a hot lapped by water from continuously spring. strictest It has the rituals of the three, required to performwith pilgrims a barefoot circuit the rock, paddling through the cas- of your shoes at the off Take cading water. before the priestentrance and bow your head no photos inside. for the purification rites; 10-minute further hike down the mountain to the trailhead at At the end of August, ascetics-in-training undergo a week-long course of austerities but for men only, at Dewa Sanzan-jinja. It’s maiden’ ‘shrine women can join a four-day training course (

Autumn Peak Peak Autumn ( C yet found your calling, If you haven’t consider becoming a Sh Eve, Year’s On New Hassaku Matsuri Hassaku Yamabushi The peak of Haguro-san is the site of several The peak of Haguro-san major festivals. for a boun- August and 1 September to pray tiful harvest. z ( Yudono-san Yudono-san jinja closed Nov-Apr) closed Yudono-san (1504m) is the spiritual culmina-is the spiritual (1504m) Yudono-san the Dewation of from trek. Coming Sanzan a short just the stream walk from it’s Gas-san, of the descent to bed at the end

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8am- Ō ō ; 153 Hira- Onsen and h ed – is ō POTTERY DISTRICT POTTERY ren-ji ﬁ involves involves ū ō takes years years takes Ch Dainichib 七右エ門窯 ( and (pear skin). In the 19th (pear skin). In is the older of the is the older of

ing, literally lacquer- literally ing, The fiery the kilns lining 山形 ) ﬆ ami; admission ¥500; ¥500; ami; admission sokushinbutsu 8am-5pm) op to the village, turning left turning left the village, op to Ō 8.30am-5.30pm, pottery making 9am- pottery 8.30am-5.30pm, nashi-seiji ﬆ h h sokushinbutsu (rural) cities. While it’s a bit short on (rural) cities. While it’s , or ‘living Buddhas’, in Japan, and Japan, in ‘living Buddhas’, or , ren-ji, head north from the bus north from head ren-ji,

sho trailhead at Yudono-san to Tsuruoka Sights & Activities is the largest and offers the best chance is the largest and offers ū ō ō You can also try your hand at making You Between June and early November, there 平清水陶器地域 3pm) chimizu; Hazukashi-kawa (Embarassed River) turn Hazukashi-kawa piecesout beautiful blueish-grey mottled known as century there were dozens of workshops here, but now only a few remain. Of them, to see master potters at work. to see master potters your own pottery here. Lessons (in Japa- Ginzan Onsen. 1 District Pottery Hirashimizu ( Shichiemon-gama Yamagata 023 / POP 255,000 industrial centre is a thriving Yamagata making student population, with a sizeable vibe than in comparablefor a more youthful inaka is an excellent base for day sights, Yamagata and also and Yonezawa trips to Yamadera serves a transit point for Za as (¥1100, 35 minutes). are up four to daily buses from the Yudono-san Sanr (¥1770, hours), 1¼ which also pass by Rte 112 halfway between Yudono-san and and Yudono-san between 112 halfway Rte ff ami, o ami, sokushinbutsu Ō (the sap of the lacquer tree) and eventually being and eventually tree) the lacquer of (the sap ami; admission ¥500; ¥500; ami; admission ill make your connection back to Tsuruoka. to back connection your ill make Ō , near Dewa Sanzan, at the temples of of at the temples Sanzan, Dewa near ﬆ ō me (¥1520, d , walk uphill from the bus uphill from walk , ō ū ō urushi cation ritual. The Danichib ritual. cation fi ce in Tsuruoka. Note ffi sokushinbutsu ce and then left again onto the main road; look for the sign with the red the red the sign with look for the main road; onto again and then left ce (Haguro summit; ¥1150, 50 ill attributes great spiritual power to these ‘living Buddhas’. these to spiritual power great ill attributes ō ffi ﬆ o ﬆ . Both can be viewed by the public, though seeing the one at Dainichib though seeing the public, by be viewed can Both . ; www2.plala.or.jp/sansuirijuku/index.html; 92-1 Nakadai, Nakadai, 92-1 ; www2.plala.or.jp/sansuirijuku/index.html; kneeling for a puri kneeling for to Gas-san as far as Hachig Both temples are in the village of of in the village are temples Both There are two two are There ō ; www.dainichibou.or.jp; 11 Ny ; www.dainichibou.or.jp; ﬆ r Getting There & Around Information

and follow the curving road for about 20 minutes, keeping an eye out for the blue-and- out for an eye keeping minutes, about 20 for the curving road and follow which apart, hours about two spaced are Buses poles. signs on the telephone white and look around, time to leaves arrow and the temple up the hill on the left. For Ch For up the hill on the left. and the temple arrow – or decades – of ascetic determination. It involves extreme fa extreme It involves determination. ascetic – of – or decades drinking by insides ing one’s however during the 19th century; outlawed was The practice and enshrined. disinterred beliefs folk Dainichib to get To Tsuruoka. at the po buried alive to meditate until death. After 1000 days the body – now mummi the body – now days 1000 After until death. meditate to buried alive two by nearly half a century, having entered the earth at age 96 in 1783. Taking photo- Taking 96 in 1783. at age the earth entered having half a century, nearly by two permitted. is not graphs that half of them are in Yamagata Prefecture. Becoming a Becoming Prefecture. Yamagata in them are that half of 連寺 ﬁ It is believed that there are some 20 20 some are there that It is believed THE LIVING BUDDHAS OF YAMAGATA 5pm) 坊 Lunch sets Lunch ¥1575), (from and fish with river During the summer climbing months, there From early July to late August, and then on Before setting out, it’s recommended that you Directions are given in the same sequence as trek.the are up to 10 buses daily (theearliest leaving at 6am) from Tsuruoka to Haguro village (¥800, 35 minutes),most of which then continue on to Haguro-sanch minutes). Outside the peak season, the schedule is greatly reduced. weekends and holidays until late September, there are up to four daily buses from Haguro- sanch hour). one 8 8 Theoretically, if you hiked at a military pace and timed the buses perfectly, you might be able to cover all three peaks in one However, day. this would leave you no time to enjoy the scenery, and the chances of missing a key bus connection are very high. If you want to tackle all three mountains – possible from June through Sep- tember – it’s bestto devote two days. book accommodation and stock up on maps at the tourist information o that transport can grind to a halt once the snow starts to pile up. mountain vegetables,mountain served are too. here, 根 ( ō The d

ū Onsen Onsen ō BUDDHIST TEMPLE BUDDHIST on the JR 8am-5pm) 山形市観光案 h ( 9am-5.30pm) On On 9am-5.30pm) Konpon-ch h kaisoku The Narrow Road to the the to Road Narrow The 山寺 , ō 647-2266; 647-2266; (1689) % ; between and Tokyo Yamagata ; admission ¥300; ; admission ; admission ¥200), where a small lan- Sights Information Getting There & Away

Risshaku-ji Risshaku-ji A favourite destination of the itinerant A favourite Matsuo Bash Matsuo There are also frequent 立石寺 Deep North Deep is an atmospheric Yamadera haiku master, cluster of temples perched precariously on lush and wooded slopes. The town was founded in AD 860 by priests who carried with them the sacred flame from Enryaku-ji supposedly the same flame and near Kyoto, It is believed that Yamad- is still alight today. rock faces are the boundaries between era’s this world and the next. 内センター本中堂 the 2nd floor of Yamagata Station, in a small glassbooth. 1 The sights are fairly well signposted from the train station. Souvenir and noodle shops line the main street. o ( (¥980, 40 minutes). JR highway buses make an overnight trip between Yamagata and (one- Tokyo way/roundtrip ¥6300/11,500, 6½ hours). TRAIN There are hourly trains on the Yamagata shinkansen (¥11,030, 2¾ hours). Yamadera 023 / POP 1500 ‘Stillness, seeps into the stones, the cry of cicadas.’ left outside the station’s east exit east and look left station’s the outside floor. the second blue sign across for the Tourist Information Center BUS Buses leave approximately once an hour from stop 1 outside Yamagata Station for Za Senzan line between Yamagata and Yamadera (¥230, 20 minutes). 8 8 ‘Temple of Standing Stones’, more commonly of Standing Stones’, ‘Temple rests atop a rock-hewn known as Yamadera, staircase that has been weathered over the centuries by unrelenting elements. At the foot of the mountain is $ $$ $$ FILM -dai ō mobile IZAKAYA IZAKAYA % TRADITIONAL English- ) GUESTHOUSE In early Au- In ; or Geik nan-machi; s/d nan-machi; s/d BUSINESS HOTEL HOTEL BUSINESS ō ō piW 644-1045; www.toyoko 644-1045; Come here to sample % ; Business hotels cluster ) (flower-laden straw hats) and (flower-laden straw 624-0880; www.kitanosuisan.com; www.kitanosuisan.com; 624-0880; 5pm-12am) ; www.hanagasa.jp/en) niW This biennial event, held next in % h ;

Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping Festivals & Events hanagasa

Buses bound for Nishi-Za Buses bound yoko Inn Yamagata Yamagata Inn yoko temachi; s/d ¥3500/6000; s/d temachi; ō ゲストハウスミンタロハット北野水産花笠まつり東横イン山形駅西口 singing folk songs. local Yamagata specialties (on the wooden local Yamagata the first board, with pictures) Take and sake. gust; features large crowds of dancers wear- gust; features large crowds ing speaking Sato-san turned his childhood home into this comfortable guesthouse the northeast corner of the central just off park. The common area is built around a radiant stove, which ensures a warm and familial atmosphere conducive to chatting and the kitchen is with fellow travellers, with supplies for self-caterers. stocked 2013, takes place over one week in October place over one takes 2013, all over the world,and screens films from along with retrospectives, symposiums and panorama. a Japanese Kitanosuisan Kitanosuisan ( ( T Eki Nishiguchi

Guesthouse Mintaro Hut Mintaro Guesthouse ( 4 (www.yidff.jp) Yamagata International Yamagata Documentary Film Festival

Hanagasa Matsuri Hanagasa ( z nese) are 90 minutes and priced accordingpriced and 90 minutes are nese) per use (¥2000 you clay amount of to the fee extra); shipping kilogram; no reservations necessary too. are welcome, and kids to an address pieces ship that finished Note Pick up profes- month later. one in Japan shop. in the studio’s sional pieces 5 out- or half-hourly from stop run hourly Station to the Hirashimizu side Yamagata minutes).stop (¥280, 15 2nd fl, 1-8-8 Kasumicho; table charge ¥500, dishes ¥500, charge Kasumicho; table 1-8-8 2nd fl, ¥300-1500; around JR Yamagata Station, but this one around JR Yamagata is the best value for money: clean, efficient rooms with complimentary breakfast just west exit. minutes on foot from the station’s 090-2797-1687; www.mintarohut.com; 5-13 5-13 www.mintarohut.com; 090-2797-1687; Ō -inn.com/hotel/00097; 1-18-13 J 1-18-13 -inn.com/hotel/00097; ¥5480/7770;

Ū (TŌHOKU) YAMAGATA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 54 55 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) YAMAGATA PREFECTURE

. , ō ō ū juhy at SKIING & & SKIING ﬀ a ﬆ 松ヶ崎 , which which , is arguably trains run trains ō ū en ( ō Za futs . Of these, the Of these, . on the JR Senzan line ū ; www.zao-spa.or.jp; 1-day 1-day ; www.zao-spa.or.jp; Dec-Apr) 蔵王温泉 famous. Ask the Ask famous. kaisoku h ) is also home to the ru- the home to ) is also . 9am-4pm Apr-Nov) ﬆ . During the rest of the year, . During the rest of the year, h ō 米沢 yonezawa-gy Onsen Ski Resort Ski Resort Onsen Onsen is the mo ō Sights & Activities ; alternatively, regular regular ; alternatively, ō Getting There & Away

Onsen is a small hot-spring town with and visitors with great hiking attracts Za ō ō 蔵王温泉スキー場 1 o ( 8 There are frequent between Yamadera and Yamagata (¥230, 20 minutes) and, in the other direction, to Sendai (¥820, onehour). Za 023 / POP 14,000 Za bigger are its some big skiing. Even (ice monsters), which are conifers that have been frozen solid by harsh Siberian winds. Skiing or snowboarding through fields of lurking ice monsters is a surreal experience unique to Za Za of tubs number the chance to soak in any sulphurous water. filled with milky, lift tickets ¥4800; ¥4800; lift tickets home to the best slopes in Northern Honsh home to the best slopes in Northern Hokkaid heavyweight comparison to In you shouldn’t come here expecting spine- tingling chutes, but rather a huge breadth fact,of beginner and intermediate runs. In from the high- possible to ski all the way it’s est point of the mountain right down to the base without ever a black dia- turning down stuck in a field of moguls. mond or getting SNOWBOARDING ’s ō shinkansen 奥の 24-5400; www.yonezawabeef.co.jp/info/eng.html; www.yonezawabeef.co.jp/info/eng.html; 24-5400; Back ( MUSEUM % ; http://uesugi.yonezawa.info) ; ’s famous ’s , visit early ō 11am-9pm, closed Tue) closed 11am-9pm, ), through ō le now form the boundaries of Matsugasaki-k of the boundaries form le now h ﬆ 登起波 ( 上杉祭り

( ; 1-4-13 Marunouchi; admission ¥400; ¥400; Marunouchi; admission ; 1-4-13

Oku-no-in 仁王門 le of the Uesugi clan. the Uesugi le of ( ) gate marks the start ﬆ op on the Yamagata Yamagata op on the 稽照殿 Tokiwa ( ﬆ

山門 ; 4223 Yamadera; admission Yamadera; ; 4223 ( ). The latter, an 18th-centu- ). The latter, -den u main line between Yonezawa and Yamagata (¥820, 45 minutes). (¥820, Yamagata and Yonezawa u main line between Nio-mon information centre in Yonezawa Station to mark the location on a map – it’s a on a map – it’s mark the location Station to Yonezawa in centre information ō ; meals from ¥4200; ¥4200; from ; meals Ō ﬆ ūō 五大堂 Uesugi Matsuri Uesugi ( 9am-4.30pm, closed Mon Dec-Feb) closed 9am-4.30pm, avour, and arguably rivalling Kobe’s own. Yonezawa ( Yonezawa own. Kobe’s rivalling arguably and avour, ō ), an attractive park framed by a placid moat. Inside, there’s a shrine and a treasury, and a treasury, a shrine there’s Inside, a placid moat. by framed park an attractive ), San-mon ﬂ Kinenkan Kinenkan Keish h ō The foundations of the ca of foundations The Yonezawa is a Yonezawa There are dozens (hundreds?) of places in town to try to in town places of (hundreds?) dozens are There To really see the feudal era in action, visit on 3 May, when more than a thousand thousand than a when more visit on 3 May, in action, era the feudal see really To 公園 the the touri the way. bit out of on the JR on the ined 17th-century ca ined 17th-century YONEZAWA tenderness its for famous beef, Yonezawa on down chow to here should head Carnivores and 7-2-3 Ch 7-2-3 participants in full samurai regalia re-enact the epic battle of Kawanakajima during the Kawanakajima of epic battle the re-enact regalia samurai in full participants annual displays armour and works of art belonging to several generations of the Uesugi family. the Uesugi of generations several art belonging to of armour and works displays hundred-year-old hundred-year-old Past the Past For a better shot at a measure of the medi- a better For The ; Inner Sanctuary); Inner and in the other to the 山寺芭蕉記念館 of the climb, some 1000 steps that take you steps that take of the climb, some 1000 past carvings so mossy and worn they ap- a steep pear to be part of the landscape. It’s ascent – a sort of walking meditation – but the viewsthe top, of from one that makes the surrounding mountains and bucolic that much more spec- countryside below, During the summer months, the tacular. electric whir of the cicadas is, true to Bash observation, almost overpowering. en- which only those with pure souls may ter (be honest now!), the path splits, heading in one direction to the in the morning or late in the afternoon. It’s during the winter, possible to visit Yamadera though if you arrive just after a snowfall the not yetpaths may be shovelled. down in the village near the train station, this biographical museum exhibits scrolls and calligraphy related to Bash northern journey. Bash ( 院 Godaid has thery perched on the cliffside, pavilion most arresting views. tative bliss that so inspired Bash tern guards the flame said to have been trans- been to have tern guards the flame said ago. centuries so many ported from Kyoto ¥400; ¥400; $ 6am- ONSEN ONSEN LODGE LODGE h Thanks ) Ropeway An upmar- ūō ay the ay pW Ropeway. Ch ﬆ exit bus pool. bus pool. exit ō ūō ﬆ in Ginzan, is a in Ginzan, 10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, Mon-Fri, 10am-6.30pm ﬆ ; admission ¥450; ¥450; ; admission h 694-9145; www.lodge-chito 694-9145; 693-1212; www.zaospa.co.jp; www.zaospa.co.jp; 693-1212; % ained glass to traditional traditional to ained glass ; Onsen; r per person without/ r per person Onsen; % ō ﬆ ; Follow the wooden steps down Follow Sky Cable, up or down. Cable, Sky ō orical drama from the 1980s – but the 1980s – from drama orical ﬆ Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping , one of the grande one of , Onsen Dai-rotemburo Dai-rotemburo Onsen ) ō p ロッジちとせや新左衛門の湯蔵王温泉大露天風呂 ket option, this modern hot-spring bathing complexhas several spacious pools. The nicest are outside, set with wooden in stone canopies. Shinzaemon-no-Yu Shinzaemon-no-Yu ( 4 Accommodation abounds, but reservations visiting during the ski are essential if you’re in summer. season or on weekends Chitoseya Lodge ( Za ( with 2 meals from ¥3675/6090; ¥3675/6090; from with 2 meals seya.com; 954 Za 954 seya.com; 905 Kawa-mae; ¥700; ¥700; 905 Kawa-mae; to 9pm Sat & Sun, closed irregularly) closed & Sun, 9pm Sat to 7pm May-Oct) to its budget-friendly prices and delicious, meals, Chitoseyahome-style a attracts Theyouthful crowd of skiiers and hikers. tatami rooms are fresh-looking and unfussy; facilities are shared. The lodge is in between the bus station and the Ch the mountainside to this huge open-air hot- spring pool. The rocks set sulphur-stained the stage for the spectacle that is dozens of complete together strangers bathing naked in joyful unison. other two ropeways, the Za the ropeways, other two or the Za information centre. centre. information ﬆ 0237-28-2327; www.notoyaryokan.com; 446 Ginzan 446 Ginzan www.notoyaryokan.com; 0237-28-2327; 樹氷 ance from Yamagata. Take the Yamagata Yamagata the Take Yamagata. from ance HIKING On- % ourishes like turrets and turrets like ourishes ō ﬆ ; ﬂ ), a crater This suc- gen ( ) to within ern a fortunate collection of ryokan in the classic Taisho-era Taisho-era in the classic ryokan of collection a fortunate ō ructure, complete with balconies, elaborate woodwork woodwork elaborate with balconies, complete ructure, ) looks curiously like a movie set. It was – Japanese know know Japanese – It was set. a movie curiously like ) looks ﬆ ﬆ K ﬆ popular in the winter, when snow adds a dreamy touch to to touch dreamy adds a when snow winter, popular in the riking di romantic in the evening. Should you decide to decide to Should you the evening. in romantic 御釜 ō ﬆ ﬆ ﬆ ( is distinguished outside the touri outside There is nothing , an enormously popular hi an , 能登屋旅館 ō 蔵王山 ( ﬆ orey orey

( ﬆ 銀山温泉 ; one-way/return ; one-way/return Oshin -san Okama ō après-ski. Za 8.30am-5pm Apr-Nov ) Apr-Nov 8.30am-5pm to its terminus in Oishida (¥1890, 30 minutes) then transfer to one of up to up to one of to then transfer 30 minutes) in Oishida (¥1890, terminus its to ructures. It’s mo It’s ructures. h ﬆ Notoya Ryokan Notoya Of course, Ginzan is mo Ginzan Of course, Ginzan Onsen is in easy is in easy Onsen Ginzan ; Ice Monster Plateau), which reaches Monster ; Ice yle, which adds romantic We which adds romantic yle, Sanroku Ropeway Ropeway Sanroku ne choice. The three- ne choice. ve daily buses leaving for Ginzan Onsen (¥690, 40 minutes) from the we from 40 minutes) (¥690, Onsen Ginzan for leaving daily buses ve ō the wooden eaves and surrounding mountains. Several ryokan open up their baths to to up their baths open ryokan Several mountains. surrounding and eaves the wooden a li pick up day-trippers; night, night, and a curious garret tower, dates to 1922, though piecemeal renovations have been have renovations though piecemeal 1922, to dates tower, and a curious garret the river. building overlooking in the main a room get you sure Make inside. completed wooden wooden ﬁ shinkansen ﬁ Shin-Hata; r per person with 2 meals from ¥18,000; ¥18,000; from with 2 meals r per person Shin-Hata; it as the setting for for it as the setting GINZAN ONSEN GINZAN Obana- peaceful the side of on either images mirror inns forming century-old its With ( Onsen Ginzan zawa, it wasn’t designed to be. It’s ju It’s be. to designed it wasn’t ﬆ English signage is excellent, and full But don’t come expectingbunny boring 蔵王山麓ロプウェー高原 At this in frigid February. its peak ferocity time, blizzards are particularly severe, so dress appropriately. at various equipment rental is available locations throughout the village. Za a full complement of bars, sen also offers cafes, restaurants and onsen, making for a truly memorable your the sensation of stripping off quite like un- sliding into an onsen bath and ski-wear, of microbrewed sake. corking a bottle ¥1400/2500; ¥1400/2500; cession of cable cars whisks you over the conifers and up spitting distance of spitting ( Za slopes. On the contrary, Za slopes. On the contrary, by its broad and winding courses, some ofby its broad and winding With 40 in length! which reach nearly 10km spidery and ski liftsropeways 14 spanning almost it’s courses with multiple offshoots, impossible to swish down the exact same course, you might want to Of route twice. a second go at the Juhy have lake of piercing cobalt blue. Thelake walk to the passes Buddhist statues and monu- lake before ments hidden among the greenery, the terrain breaks up into a sunset-coloured can extend the crumble of volcanic rock. You money) by taking one of the (and save hike

Ū (TŌHOKU) YAMAGATA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 56 57 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) NIIGATA PREFECTURE . $ $$ $$ . ō Con- ) HOTEL HOTEL MARKET MARKET RYOKAN RYOKAN p -ku; meals ūō rotemburo hoku proper, hoku proper, ō 247-7755; www. 247-7755; % ) isn’t just the setting) isn’t snow country. The pre- snow country. This pleasant Japanese- ; ) While the Dormy Inn Inn While the Dormy is ) i 225-1111; www.uedaryokan.com; www.uedaryokan.com; 225-1111; , it 新潟県 9am-9pm, varies by shop; by varies 9am-9pm, 新潟 ; r per person without/with 2 meals without/with ; r per person ni % ō h gen, Naeba and Echigo-Yuzawa and Echigo-Yuzawa gen, Naeba ; ō K ō Bandai; 2-10 Bandai-shima, Ch Bandai-shima, Bandai; 2-10 Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping k ō Duringpeak ski season, private companies ピアドーミーイン新潟植田旅館 style inn occupiesstyle a quiet spot just beyond edge. the river’s from ¥1000; ¥1000; from Pia Bandai Pia Bandai ( 4 Inn Niigata Dormy ( Ryokan Ueda ( Niigata 025 / POP 811,600 The prefectural capital of Niigata serves as a transit hub and a springboard to nearby the longest river, Sado-ga-shima. Japan’s runs through the centre ofShinano-gawa, time to spare, join the if you have the city; locals for a stroll along the riverbank. NIIGATA PREFECTURE ( Niigata-ken acclaimed novel Yasunari’s for Kawabata CountrySnow fecture sees some of the of country’s highestfecture sees some of the of country’s snowfalls, buryingand bewitching villages ski destinations include powder fiends. Top My sultry baths sweeten Onsen; at the latter, those who prefer to get away the deal. For the persimmon-peppered from it all, there’s While the prefec- island of Sado-ga-shima. ture technically isn’t part of T its capital city, Niigata, serves as the gateway its capital city, to lands further north. skimps on interior design – no carpet in its baths, here – it splurges on the hallways which include a sauna and a The rooms, small but well-maintained, fall somewhere in between. Yonnoch 2120 from ¥3780/7350; ¥3780/7350; from Prices can be as low as ¥7000 return – enquire at tourist information centres in for Tokyo more information. run overnight shuttles between and Tokyo Za hotespa.net/hotels/niigata; 1-7-14 Akashi; s/d from from s/d Akashi; 1-7-14 hotespa.net/hotels/niigata; ¥5500/7500; veniently located on the way to the Sadoveniently located on the way this outdoor complex Terminal, Kisen Ferry includes markets and eateries – so you can

) $ $$ $$ $$$ W Sky On- (for- ō ō ri This is ) ō ECLECTIC ECLECTIC RYOKAN RYOKAN PENSION PENSION RYOKAN RYOKAN Yoshida-ya Yoshida-ya Ropeway. Ropeway. ) pW 9am-6pm) 9am-6pm) ūō 694-9328; www. 694-9328; 694-9542; www. 694-9542; h pW % % (thick futons on kaiseki rykaiseki ( ; 11am-9pm Thu-Tue; 11am-9pm Thu-Tue; Onsen; r per person with- r per person Onsen; Onsen; Onsen; ō h ō wa-beddo -onsen; r per person from ¥4650, ¥4650, from r per person -onsen; ō Among the upmarket ryokan ) 694-9333; www.zao.co.jp/takamiya; www.zao.co.jp/takamiya; 694-9333; % Ropeway. The is a former owner Ropeway. pW ; http://otochaya.com; 935-24 Za 935-24 ; http://otochaya.com; ; ; 13 Za ; 13 ūō Onsen; r per person with 2 meals from from with 2 meals r per person Onsen; ō Getting There & Away Information

Onsen and JR Yamagata Station (¥980, 40 Takamiya Takamiya ō 音茶屋高見屋吉田屋ペンションぼくのうち Next to the bus terminal, with English maps. a skiiers’ lodge through and through, from and lodge through a skiiers’ din- on the wall of the sociable the posters front of the location right in ing room to the Ch and national ski team, Japan member of the are Japa- Rooms and French. speaks English facilities, includ- with communal nese style ing a 24-hour bath. sulphur bokunouchi.com; 904 Za 904 bokunouchi.com; ¥3500/7200; from 2 meals out/with zao-spa.or.jp; 708-1 Za 708-1 zao-spa.or.jp; Cable, with basic tatami rooms, communalCable, with basic tatami facilities and an onsen bath. has a following among foreign travelers, no foreign travelers, has a following among helpful propri- doubt because the friendly, mod- a English. It’s etress flawless speaks ern building, Za five minutes from the minutes). 8 Hourly buses run between the bus terminal in Za Tourist Information Center 8 Oto-chaya Oto-chaya ( ( o Yoshida-ya Yoshida-ya ( Pension Boku-no-Uchi Boku-no-Uchi Pension ( sen; meals from ¥850; from meals sen; breakfast/dinner ¥800/2000; ¥800/2000; breakfast/dinner in town, Takamiya is our pick for its em- in town, Takamiya been in phasis on the classics. After all, it’s business for nearly three centuries! There are several beautiful baths here, both indoor made of stone or aromatic ce- and outdoor, are traditional Meals dar. mal banquets served in multiple courses) with top-grade local beef as the headliner. ar- tatami sitting The spacious rooms have eas and fluffy platforms). Oto-chaya is all things for all people (at allOto-chaya hours): hearty stews and casseroles, elabo- It’s rate Chinese tea sets bar. and a stocked also a popular hangout with a mellow vibe. Look for the wooden sign with the teapot, on the main road beyond the Ch 54 Za ¥16,950; 50 km Line ri; ri; (50km) ō 25 miles To Yonezawa Atsumi 9am-6pm) Eng- 9am-6pm)

YAMAGATA e PREFECTURE 7 新潟駅万代口観 h 49

( Murakami Murakami

Yonesaka JR Uetsu Main Lin Main Uetsu JR NakajŸ NIIGATA Shibata 0 0 PREFECTURE FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE 241-7914; 241-7914; Suibara % Gosen ; To Otaru Sakamachi (HokkaidŸ) Iwafune-kŸ Niitsu Toyosaka Airport Niigata Kamo Hokuriku Expwy Numata 8 Tsukiyono Tochio GUNMA Koide ights head to/from Tokyo, Osaka, ﬂ Koide SanjŸ PREFECTURE

Mitsuke Muikamachi

Getting There & Away

Tsubame nsen

outpatient services 8.30am-11.30am Mon-Fri) services 8.30am-11.30amoutpatient Mon-Fri) Nagaoka

Agatsuma

Echigo-Yuzawa

Shirone inka

Niigata t

GALA Yuzawa Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen

Sh 光案内センター ac.jp/index_e.html; 1-757 Asahimachi-d ac.jp/index_e.html; 1-757 Nagoya, Hiroshima, Sapporo and many other destinations. AIR From Niigata Airport, 13km north of the city centre, h 8 Tourist Information Center lish maps and information on Sado-ga-shima, to the left of Niigata Station’s Bandai exit. Ÿe Niigata-kŸ J

Maki Naeba in

a ;

Line M

Straits Expwy u Ojiya

t Kan-Etsu e

Yahiko i h

S Kawaguchi ), the Sado Kagura TŸkamachi Art Field Tsunan 弁慶 Teradomari Ski Resort ( Echigo-Tsumari Nakano MyŸkŸ KŸgen Naeba Ski Resort 350 227-2460, after after 227-2460, 新潟中央郵便局 Suzaka Sawata ( Kashiwazaki % Arai Naoetsu Ogi Benkei RyŸtsu ; (conveyor-belt su- ATM 7am-11pm Mon- Sado-ga-shima 18 Akadomari h MyŸkŸ-san JŸetsu KŸgen MyŸkŸ dori ; ; dori Aikawa NŸ Ō Nagano Naoetsu-kŸ kaiten-sushi NAGANO

Itoigawa

PREFECTURE Main

148 u

Sea of Japan Line

Information

iigata Prefecture iigata okurik H 新潟大学医歯学総合病院 upmarket shi) restaurant that specialises in fish from the seas around Sado-ga-shima. 2-6-26 Higashi

hours 227-2479; http://www.nuh.niigata-u. 8 Niigata Central Post Office gawk at the bounty of Niigata’s coast and of Niigata’s bounty at the gawk sample it, too. Our pick:

Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, Sun & holidays) Niigata University Medical & Dental Hospital ( N

Ū (TŌHOKU) NIIGATA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 58 59 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) NIIGATA PREFECTURE

, 酒 (

oor ARTS & MUSIC & ARTS fl shinkansen yle called yle called (stylised dance- (stylised One of Sado’s One of Sado’s ō ﬆ erent kinds erent ff Sake-no-jin ve di ve . The long cold winters winters The long cold . fi mid-August) ing bar on the 2nd ing bar h ﬆ Kampai! ; www.niigata-sake.or.jp/index.html) In March, a mammoth bacchanal bacchanal a mammoth In March, unlikely, and convenient, Another Festivals & Events ation; a ta (from a selection of nearly a hundred) a hundred) nearly of a selection (from ¥500. for lets you sample sample you lets ﬆ の陣 tanrei karakuchi tanrei mountain snow fresh of plenty produce which trans- below, the valleys melt for and then deli- delicious rice, into lates to should be sure Tipplers cious sake. through. while passing themselves treat called city, in Niigata of than 90 varieties more highlights the prefecture. around from sake the local of a sampling get to place is the Echigo-Yuzawa brew NIIGATA SAKE NIIGATA Japan’s is one of Prefecture Niigata in known regions, sake-producing top dry a crisp, for particular z Celebration Earth (www.kodo.or.jp; History been something a far- of Sado has always a volun- not always flung destination, just tary era, the island one. During the feudal where out-of- was a notorious penal colony intellectuals were foreverfavour banished. The in- illustrious list of former prisoners n cludes Emperor Juntoku, drama) master Ze-Ami and Nichiren, the most influential founder of one of Japan’s Buddhist sects. When gold was discovered was there in 1601, near the village of Aikawa who were oftena sudden influx of miners, from the mainlandvagrants press-ganged slaves. and made to work like beauty and eccentric reminders of its richof its reminders eccentric and beauty and evocative past. There persim- are more the island’s here, and than people mon trees campgroundsfronted by covers are sandy of concrete.instead the peak during Crowds August for the Earththird week in Celebra- Kodo by the world-famous tion, headlined holidayOutside of the summer Drummers. blissfully quiet. season, it’s biggest draws is this three-day music, dance is this three-day biggest draws and arts festival held during the third week

etsu ō , where tokky hoku hoku ō ō Suehiro- at ) connects ﬀ ), a big yellow Bandai Bus 245-1234; www. 245-1234; Shin-Nihonkai 佐渡島 , ō % Nihonkai-T ; each day on the JR ū Kan-Etsu Expressway Kan-Etsu tokky ) runs between and Tokyo the 佐渡汽船 273-2171; www.snf.jp) ferries 日本海東北自動車道 ( , take any bus bound for Rinko- ( (from ¥6300, 18 get hours). To ō % ō between Niigata and (¥10,270, Tokyo tsu on Sado-ga-shima. Buses to the ; ō 万代シテイバスセンター . ( ū me from stop 6 at the Bandai exit bus pool ō Sado Kisen Sado Buses run from stop outside 5 Niigata Sta- There are a few For accessing the port of Naoetsu-k 新日本海関越自動車道 to Niigata-k nich in front of Niigata Station and get o bashi (¥200, 25 minutes). taxi A should cost ¥1500. around run at10.30am daily, except Monday, to Otaru Hokkaid on tion’s south exit to the airport roughly every every airport the roughly to exit south tion’s half-hour from 6.30am 6.40pm to (¥400, 25 minutes); a taxi should cost around ¥2500. ferry terminal (¥200, 15 minutes) leave from stop 5 at the Bandai exit bus pool 45 minutes before sailing. A taxi should cost around ¥1000; alternatively, you can walk there in about 40 minutes. sadokisen.co.jp) runs frequent ferries and hydrofoils to Ry Sado-ga-shima 0259 / POP 62,000 island, sixth-largest Despite being Japan’s Sado-ga-shima is relatively undeveloped, and is characterised by rugged natural you can grab a ferry or hydrofoil to the town of Ogi on Sado-ga-Shima, there are a few TRAIN There are several hourly trains on the J CAR & MOTORCYCLE If driving, you’re the ( each day on the JR Shinetsu line between Niigata and Naoetsu (¥2720, hours). 1¾ There are also a few buses daily from the Bandai exit bus pool at Niigata Station for Naoetsu (¥1950, 2½ hours). From Naoetsu Station, it’s a 10-minute bus ride (¥200) or about a ¥1000 taxi ride to the port. greater Niigata area. The BUS Highway buses depart from the Center shinkansen 2¼ hours) via Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen (¥5240, 50 minutes). Uetsu line between Niigata and Tsuruoka (¥4330, 2 hours), and between Niigata and Akita (¥7020, 3¾ hours). building 1km northwest of the train station, and connect Niigata to major cities throughout Honsh Akita. with Niigata BOAT From the port of Niigata-k Expressway ( 1 2 3 5 4

‚ has a ō tsu. tsu. ō Katanō To Niigata # \ D D

PERFORMING ARTS PERFORMING ‚ To Teradomari # \ Washisaki 03-5390-0550; www. 03-5390-0550; Sado Uchikaifu Ryōtsu-wan Straits % ; 010km 05miles 15 # e # ÿ yōtsu # \ 9 R 佐渡汽船 Uryuya # ò # \ # ÿ ( Sado stands out for being one # \ # \ C C Niibo ú # Akadomari 19 2 Hatano R # \ # Ú # f Kamo-ko Donden-zan (934m)

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1 2

5 Sado-ga-shima 3 4 dances), in August. The event features and goddesses). However, the focal point of the goddesses). However, Earth performance Celebration is the of the Drummers, who live in a small villageKodo north of Ogi but spend much of the year on tour across the globe. Considered to be one of the most elite drumming groups on the planet, its members are required to adhere to strict physical, mental and spiritual training be interested in attending, regimens. If you’re advised that you will need to buy tickets and arrange accommodation

Ū (TŌHOKU) NIIGATA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 60 61 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) NIIGATA PREFECTURE tsu ō 8am- h tsu tsu ō can ac- ū BUDDHIST TEMPLE BUDDHIST 津両両津

tsu is a low-key port ō d ces in either port can n ﬃ u o r tsu can drop you off at the tsu can drop you off

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yokan ...... B4 R &

This rustic wooden temple, with ; 1837 Niibo Ono; admission ¥300; admission Niibo Ono; ; 1837 ) u s p Sights tsu & Around t Tourist Information Center...... B3 Itōya Sado Belle Mer Youth Hostel...... B3 Campground...... B5 So-bama Hostel...... Youth C1 Sotokaifu Tōkaen ...... C3 Isonoya ...... B3 Uohara ...... B5 Uohide...... C3 Tourist Information Center...... B5 Tourist Information Center...... B4 ō ō Eating Information

17 15 12 13 21 18 y 16 19 14 22 20 根本寺

ú ï to most other areas on the island, this is a area to base yourself. convenient or Ogi. Expect to pay between ¥6000-10,000 per depending day, on size and availability. The tourist information o help arrange rentals. Note that gas stations are few and far between outside of the main towns. 5pm; commodate cars for substantial a fee, though it’s usually cheaper to pick one up in Ry R Ry main hub, Ry Sado’s 1 Konpon-ji ( weekends ¥2500/2000) is good value if you plan to cover a lot of ground. CAR & MOTORCYCLE A car is the best way to access the island’s most scenic parts, and a good number of the best accommodation options are situated far from bus stops. Ferries from Honsh town. The main street is lined with ameni- here in but there is little ties for travellers, and inland, however, of sights. Head the way sprin- to rice fields the townscape gives way kled with wooden farmhouses and ancient temples. With buses running from Ry Konpon-ji-mae bus stop. Konpon-ji-mae its thatched roof and pleasant gardens, is where Nichiren was first brought when ex- iled to Sado in 1271. bus on the Minami Any line from Ry

tsu with Mano Mano with tsu ō tsu and Ogi rent ō tsu (¥800, hours). 1½ , about 90km southwest ō ō ekishi Densetsukan...... B4

Green Village Green ...... C3 Hana-no-ki ...... B5 Ōsado...... Hotel B3 glass-bottom boats glass-bottom ...... B3 Myōsen-ji...... C4 Sado Hangamura Museum ...... B3 Kinzan...... Sado B3 Sado Kokubun-ji...... C4 Konpon-ji...... C4 Go-ryō...... Mano B4 1 7 Getting Around Getting 5 2 3 Sleeping Activities, Courses & Tours 8 Sights 9 6 4

11 tsu to Aikawa (¥800, one hour), by way of 10 ō There’s an English-language timetable avail- The Minami line connects Ry The Ogi lineconnects Ogi with Mano (¥800, 55 Along the northern coast, a few daily buses run From From Naoetsu-k ÿ Ø

æ Sado-ga-shima able at the tourist information centre. The unlimited-ride bus pass (two-days weekdays/ (¥650, 45 minutes). The Hon line runs from Ry the large hub of Sawata (¥590, 40 minutes). minutes) and Sawata (¥800, hours). 1¼ on the Kaifu line between Aikawa and Iwayaguchi (¥800, one hour). The Uchikaifu line connects Iwayaguchi and Ry Local buses do a good job connecting the main towns. Services to other parts of the island, particularly the coasts, are restricted to two or three and a day, often halted in the winter. regular bikes for slightly less. BUS BICYCLE Cycling is an enjoyable way to move around the towns, but steep elevation changes make long-distance cruising a challenge. Tourist information centres in each town rent electric bicycles for a hefty ¥2000 per day ¥500 (or for two hours).Local shops in Ry 8 of Niigata, there are alsoup to three daily car- ferry services to Ogi (one-way per person/ car from ¥2310/12,360, 2½ hours), which are particularly useful for visiting during the Earth Celebration. (one-way/return ¥6340/11,490, one hour) per thoughday, service is greatly reduced outside the summer months. $$ (lo- a- SUSHI SUSHI ﬆ Mid- Then My of all of ﬆ ATM 8.45am- ess. ess. jizakana 27-5000; 27-5000; h % late June) late ( mid-July) 野 h kaen, they will drop h ō sh is on the menu sh is on the menu ock) and leeks. 真真野 ﬁ Get a taste of Sado’s Get a taste of Sado’s We celebrate sum- celebrate We

uncleanlin ﬆ ival; ival; d tsu-ebisu; tsu-ebisu; ﬆ tsu. sh ō n ﬁ ō Have you ever eaten a eaten ever you Have u tsu-ebisu; meals ¥1000-2200; ¥1000-2200; meals tsu-ebisu; ( ō o 30 June) r 8.30am-6pm) There’s an excellent A (2-1 Ry (2-1 h

dashi h & late July) late aming torches. Their insides are are Their insides aming torches.

ival; ival; six months of ﬂ ; Sado Tuna Fe Tuna ; Sado o h ﬆ ; 136 Ry ; 136 ﬀ Information n

a 11am-2pm, 4pm-7pm) 11am-2pm, ival; ival; ing o 魚秀 ; Clam Search Convention; Convention; ; Clam Search ﬆ selection of English maps and pamphlets here, including walking and cycling guides for all the island’s main areas. The helpful, English- speaking staff can help you arrange car rental. Post Office cal fish) set is a sampling of the day’s catch. cal fish) set of the day’s is a sampling Look for the red lobster logo on the front of the building. seas at this counter shop, directly across from the ferry terminal. The www.visitsado.com/en; 2nd fl Sado Kisen Ferry Ferry Kisen Sado fl 2nd www.visitsado.com/en; Terminal; M Mano & Around was the provincial capital Although Mano and cultural centre of the island from early it has since times until the 14th century, populated ad- been dwarfed by the heavily ministrative capital to the north, Sawata. Tourist Information Center driver you’re going to T going driver you’re a bit closer. you off Uohide ( h 8 7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat One & Sun) block the of front running in road main behind the port, with an international There’s ATM. another branch inside the ferry terminal, but with hours. opening shorter ﬆ

$ $$ eamed iris petals. eamed tsu, ō ﬆ ; Straw Circle Fe Circle ; Straw ivals per year than anywhere else in Japan – a te – Japan in else than anywhere per year ivals HOSTEL HOSTEL 佐渡本まぐろ祭り ﬆ (

MINSHUKU MINSHUKU minshuku ; Turban Shell Fe Turban ; tsu can drop アサリさがし大会 ō raw circle and ca circle raw (

ﬆ 22-2719; www.e- 22-2719; 茅の輪まつり %

(

さざえ祭り tsu ; ( One of our favourite

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en-mae, from where it’s en-mae, from where it’s ō This rambling ) k (salt sauna) for you if you ō pW 63-2221; www.on.rim.or.jp/~toukaen; 63-2221; www.on.rim.or.jp/~toukaen; pniW % ;

Wataru from Ry from Wataru Akiko from Ogi Akira from Ogi

Eriko from Sawata Chinowa Matsuri Sazae Matsuri Sazae Asari-sagashi Dai-kai Sado Hon-maguro Matsuri

Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping kaen kaen Green Village Village Green

ō summer is peak season for catching tuna in the Sea of Japan. Fresh Fresh Japan. of in the Sea tuna catching for season summer is peak in Ry place take and tuna-cutting exhibitions the island, all over mer by passing through a through passing mer by made with dumplings delicate eat we turban shell? We look for them at night while holding look for We shell? turban as a unique souvenir. the shell keep can and you and sake, soy delicious when grilled with SADO’S ‘OTHER’ FESTIVALS ‘OTHER’ SADO’S fe more having for famous is Sado kids love this one! They get to splash around in the ocean while searching for clams. We We clams. for while searching in the ocean splash around to get They this one! kids love with miso, a big pot them in and cook bring them home, the weird and wonderful events on Sado, see www.visitsado.com. see on Sado, events and wonderful the weird ment to the islanders’ commitment to a more traditional way of life. For a full li For life. of way traditional a more to commitment the islanders’ ment to T 桃華園グリーンヴィレッジ sadonet.tv/~gvyh/eng/index.html; 750-4 Niibo 750-4 sadonet.tv/~gvyh/eng/index.html; breakfast/dinner ¥3600/4200, dm/s Uryuya; ¥700/1500; you off at Und you off give them a week’s notice. Any bus travel- notice. Any give them a week’s line from Ry ling on the Hon has an attractive but isolated location inhas an attractive a great the middle of the central plains. It’s escape, especially considering that the own- outdoors folk who know everyers are avid trail on the island, and will heat up their shiogama-buro another 3km north on foot. If you tell the lodgings is this adorable little Western-style Western-style lodgings is this adorable little down in the middle of Sado. plopped cottage The wonderfully accommodating hosts, who speak basic English, can help you ar- yourange all manner of activities, and stuff apple pie before sendingfull of home-baked is in six- Accommodation you on your way. person dormitories or a handful of private Ry rooms with shared facilities. From regular buses on the Minami line can dropregular buses on the Minami a hundred at Niibo Yubinkyoku-mae, you off for the hostel. yards past the turn off S (

o ( 4 1636-1 Otsu; r per person without/with 2 meals from from 2 meals without/with r per person Otsu; 1636-1 ¥4200/8400;

Ū (TŌHOKU) NIIGATA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 62 63 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) NIIGATA PREFECTURE

$ $$ So- RYOKAN RYOKAN (¥1400, 45 CAMPGROUND CAMPGROUND Shukunegi Right across ) p To create this en- create To ) (¥450, 10 minutes, (¥450, 86-2363; per person/tent 86-2363; per person/tent % May-Oct; May-Oct; rides pnW ; h sightseeing boat 86-2331; www.sado-hananoki.com; 86-2331; www.sado-hananoki.com; ), along Mano-wan. % , round boats made from huge, round boats ), 5km from Ogi. A medieval port ; 素浜 ( Sights Activities & Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping On the other side of the point, the rocky For travellers with their own wheels (two with their own travellers For If you want to cover a bit more ground, If you want to cover a 宿根木素浜キャンプ場花の木 ( 19th-century, in the early town that peaked Shukunegi retains its historic atmosphere with weathered wooden merchant houses, and stone staircases snak- narrow alleyways ing up and down the hillside. to sandy beaches, like coast gives way bama minutes, from 8.30am to 4.30pm April to circle tour that runs from on a November) light- the Sawa-zaki the marine terminal to house and back. west of Ogi is rid- or four will do), the coast and coves ripe for exploring.dled with caves village of also the small There’s Ogi does become something become does Ogi a heaving of a metropolis, it’s of the year for the rest but village. drowsy from ¥300/600; from 4 Campground So-bama ( Hana-no-ki ( you can take a you can take 1 Ogi is famous for its visitors, Japanese For taraibune for collectingbarrels designed shellfish in they’re main- inlets. coastal the many Today in traditional fisher-folkly used by women costumes giving from 8.30am 4.30pm) to to tourists. Tickets the marine terminal, to the at are available west of the ferry pier. the road from a tempting stretch of sand and only 6km from Ogi, this campground option for festival-goers.is an attractive busesDuring the Earth shuttle Celebration, the camp- between run several times a day ground and Ogi. chanting ryokan, the owners painstakingly took apart and reassembled a 150-year-old it down among rice pad- farmhouse, setting dies along the road to Shukunegi. Accomo- rooms in the main dation is in Japanese-stye in the gar- building or in detached cottages den. Call ahead for pickup from Ogi. 78-1 Shukunegi; r per person without/with 2 meals without/with Shukunegi; r per person 78-1 ¥5500/9450; from ; $$ sen- , the ō ) 国分寺 RYOKAN RYOKAN (

My 8am-5.30pm; 8am-5.30pm; 佐渡歴史伝 (

55-3589; 55-3589; h 真野御陵 ( ya Ryokan, just ya Ryokan, % ō , Sado-ga-shima’s , Sado-ga-shima’s (

bath that’s perfect bath that’s ō At the heart of the Kokubun-ji , which was founded, which was ) tsu and Sawata. From From tsu and Sawata. ō hinoki pW dawn-dusk) h bus stop, along the Minami bus stop, along 55-2019; www.itouyaryokan.com; www.itouyaryokan.com; 55-2019; dawn-dusk) ō Mano Go-ryMano -j % h ū ; tsu. During the Earth Celebration, 木 ō ; 小小木 Sights Sleeping ; 655 Mano; admission ¥700; ¥700; ; 655 Mano; admission

Information

i , the island’s history museum where tire- , the island’s ya Ryokan Ryokan ya 妙宣寺 From there, it’s a short to walk down there, it’s From From Myosen-ji, it’s a ten-minute walk it’s Myosen-ji, From 8.30am-5.30pm closed Wed & Sun May-Oct, ) g ( ō

伊藤屋 tomb of Emperor Juntoku. oldest temple, dating from AD 741. Anoth- AD 741. oldest temple, dating from you past marvellouser 3km takes lookout points to 113 Kokubun-ji; Kokubun-ji; 113 village, is the peaceful It 50m southwest of the Shin-machi traffic sig- 50m southwest of the Shin-machi traffic nal. This historic house is full of handicrafts from across the island, and evening dishes feature fish and shellfish from the deep sea. Rooms are spotless, the sheets are crisp and an inviting there’s for cool evenings. 278 Mano Shin-machi; r per person without/with 2 without/with Mano Shin-machi; r per person 278 ¥5250/8400; meals less animatrons act out scenes of Sado’s dra- less animatrons act scenes of Sado’s out matic past. closed Sat & Sun Nov-April) In front of the Mano Shin-machi bus stop; can provide information on hikes and temples in the vicinity and rental cycles. Although the area is home to the famed more than a Drummers, Ogi is little Kodo minor port that sees much less ferry traffic than Ry O Ogi Tourist Information Center h ( 4 It Sado Rekishi Densetsukan Rekishi Sado p by one of Nichiren’s disciples, and features a by one of Nichiren’s distinctive five-storey pagoda. old wooden stepsthrough farmland and up set to into the hillside 8 1 east of7km-long nature trail, A peaceful past through paddy fields and town, winds The top attractions. entrance is near Mano’s the Danp Good for Mano, which gets which vil- its Goodkeep to Mano, for street and main lage feel with wooden lined willows. and weeping buildings Ry bus route between the trailhead, it’s a short a walk to it’s the trailhead, ji 説館

$ $ $$ 9am- glass- HOSTEL HOSTEL HOTEL HOTEL h 75-2011; 75-2011; Tassha depart NOODLES NOODLES isonoya isonoya . Accom- % Senkaku- ; This little ) 74-2220; 15 15 74-2220; 佐渡版画村美 p (

% 8am-5pm) ( h rotemburo 8.30am-6pm Apr- 8.30am-6pm h Along the town’s south- Along the town’s 74-3300; www.oosado.com; www.oosado.com; 74-3300; ) 府 , an old wooden houseold wooden , an % (¥1000; (¥1000; ) 海

; p 外外海府 ).

pnW u f , a crisp assortment of tempura i sado sado ; 16 Aizawa Edozawa-machi; noodles ¥350- noodles Edozawa-machi; Aizawa ; 16 a 11am-8pm, to 1pm Thu; 1pm to 11am-8pm, Ō 尖閣湾 curtain where the road bends. k ) on a 15-minute cruise of Sights & Activities Sleeping Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping h ( ; 38-2 Aikawa Komeyamachi; ¥400; ¥400; Komeyamachi; Aikawa ; 38-2 shop, a few up the coast minutes’ walk Information o

t o 達者佐渡ベルメールユースホステル磯の家ホテル大佐渡 Oct) A five minute walk from the bus stop, station. police the behind http://sado.bellemer.jp; 369-4 Himezu; dm ¥3960, dm ¥3960, Himezu; 369-4 http://sado.bellemer.jp; 術館 teishoku right in front Turn with a side of noodles. look for the indigoof the police station and noren soba for its from the bus stop, is popular bottom boats bottom 4 Hostel Youth Mer Belle Sado ( Sotokaifu S Sotokaifu rugged northern coast is a dramatic Sado’s dropping off landscape of sheer sea cliffs into deep blue waters. Roads are narrow and which lead to harrowing but exhila- windy, this is one area rating coastal drives. Indeed, a rental car will make in Sado where having a big difference. 1 of order to truly appreciate the beauty In out to head going to have the region, you’re to October May From into the bay. Isonoya Isonoya ( Tourist Information Center the way you’ll way the pass several the and temples Museum Hangamura Sado 4 Hotel ( ern waterfront is this grand hotel, where you can watch the sun set over the Sea of Japan in the while you sprawl 8 modation is in either Western- or Japanese- modation is in either Western- face the sea. rooms, the best of which style every 15 minutes from the village of ( wan Aikawa Haneda-machi; Haneda-machi; Aikawa 850; where local artists display woodblock prints woodblock local artistswhere display depicting country in Sado. life 5pm Mar-Nov; 5pm Mar-Nov; with 2 meals r per person Aikawa-kabuse; 288-2 ¥12,750; from ; $$ (aba- SEAFOOD SEAFOOD 佐渡金山 ( awabi

86-3200; 86-3200; When a restau- When % ( 8.39am-5.30pm) English English 8.39am-5.30pm) h Sado Kinzan Sado 川相相川

w ; 415-1 Ogi-machi; meals from ¥1050-3000; ¥1050-3000; from meals Ogi-machi; ; 415-1 Sights a Information

Uohara Uohara

, the infamous ‘Golden Mountain’ that in , the infamous ‘Golden Mountain’ k It takes around 30 minutes to return It takes on 8am-5pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am-4.30pm Nov-Mar; Nov-Mar; 8.30am-4.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5pm 11am-5pm, closed irregularly) closed 11am-5pm, ) 74-2389; www.sado-kinzan.com/en; 1305 Shi- 1305 www.sado-kinzan.com/en; 74-2389; i 魚晴 mo-Aikawa; admission 1/2 courses ¥800/1200; 1/2 courses admission mo-Aikawa; lone), grilled as a steak (at market rate) or, as a steak (at marketlone), grilled rate) or, with a sweet barbequed more affordably, and servedsoy-sauce marinade over rice; shop- the a picture menu. Follow there’s the hill behind thelined road snaking up for about fivetourist information centre white building withminutes until you see a the side. red and blue writing on rant is attached to a fishmonger it’s always it’s to a fishmonger attached rant is counter then at the shop sign. Order a good onto a floor cushionsettle upstairs while is prepared from the morning’s your lunch catch. The here is speciality 1935-26 Ogi-machi; Ogi-machi; 1935-26 the 17th century was one of the most boun- heretiful goldmines in the world. Mining stopped in 1989. The main touristofficially route descends into the chilly depths, where you’ll the encounter robots that dramatise perilous existence of former miners. A second route brings you through century-old hauling tunnels, and leads a further 300m up the mountain to the original opencast mine where you can still see the remains of the workings. On foot down the mountain road to Aikawa. p h % From Aikawa bus terminal, it’s a 40-minute bus terminal, it’s Aikawa From walk (or a much shorter drive) up a steep mountain to 1 From a tiny hamlet, Aikawa grew hamlet, almosttiny a Aikawa From overnight into a 50,000-person boom town when gold was discovered nearby in 1601. amid some incredibly rough andMining rugged continued throughout conditions of time to length the Edo period, a sufficient associate Sado with hardship and suffering. with each pass- the town is dwindling Today, ing generation, but the scars of its mining past remain up in the hills. Aikawa A Aikawa

Tourist Information Center 8 o ( h maps and bicycle rentals, a few minutes’ walk west of the bus and ferry terminals.

Ū (TŌHOKU) NIIGATA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 64 65 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) NIIGATA PREFECTURE MUSEUM kamachi kamachi ill with Just 200km Just ō elds. It’s It’s elds. ﬆ 761-7767; 761-7767; ﬁ 9am-4.30pm Thu- 9am-4.30pm stop, right at the stop, right at % SKIING & SNOWBOARDING & SKIING ; h ; www.echigo (next up in 2015). (next Dec-Apr) h , a few minutes from from minutes a few , キナーレ (

fertile paddy paddy fertile shinkansen ﬆ ; www.galaresort.jp/winter/english; ; www.galaresort.jp/winter/english; allations by both Japanese and Japanese both allations by Kinare ; Yuzawa Town History Museum; 354-1 354-1 Museum; History Town Yuzawa ; ﬆ Sights & Activities GALA Yuzawa is divided into three areas GALA Yuzawa GALA Yu- to Tokyo, Given its proximity ommunities everywhere around Japan: around ommunities everywhere 雪国館ガーラ湯沢 10am-5pm Thu-Tue) 10am-5pm day lift tickets ¥4500; ¥4500; lift tickets day Yukiguni-kan Yukiguni-kan ( 1 Yuzawa GALA ( north of Tokyo, GALA Yuzawa’s claim to GALA Yuzawa’s north Tokyo, of fame is its own possiblemountain. It is entirely base of the morning in Tokyo, up early in the to wake afterhit the slopes and be back breakfast, such in- and a movie. With home for dinner is pre- of access, GALA Yuzawa credible ease anddictably especially on weekends packed, but you can’t beat the convenience. holidays, (northern, which to- central and southern), trails are interme- 15 runs. Most gether offer diate and beginner level, though with the there area in 2012 reopening of the southern are a few more advanced runs. Courses from with are moderate in length, top to bottom Three quadthe longest stretching for 2.4km. lifts lifts alongside six triple and double help expectto thin the crowds, but queues at peak times. its particularly though all types, draws zawa popular with students and novices. English is everywhere, and you’ll of other see plenty equipment rental is foreigners here. Full per for a somewhat pricey ¥4800 available can often agents arrange travel Tokyo day. cheap packages that include lift and train planning to head up fare, especially if you’re on a weekday. Yuzawa; admission ¥500; ¥500; admission Yuzawa; 越後妻有大地の芸術祭の里 ( h Echigo-Tsumari Triennale Echigo-Tsumari

$ elds and wooden farmhouses, some some farmhouses, elds and wooden ﬁ Yuki- HOSTEL HOSTEL ations within the region; however, given the scope, a car a car the scope, given however, ations within the region; ) bus stop. ﬆ Tucked away away Tucked ) kamachi; ¥1000; ¥1000; kamachi; ō 78-2911; www.jyh. 78-2911; , T % ō pn 岩谷口 ; ), set here, is to be to get around. to get s, set as naturally as possible in the surrounding landscape. The area The area landscape. in the surrounding as possible as naturally set s, s also typical of agricultural c of agricultural s also typical ﬆ Echigo-Tsumari Art Field Echigo-Tsumari was conceived as a way to bring people back, if only for a day or two. Here, Here, or two. a day if only for bring people back, to as a way conceived was . Now most visitors head. Now essary ofs. It’ ofs. Snow CountrySnow This is scenically hostel modern Information is available at contemporary art centre art centre at contemporary is available Information In 2000, the In 2000, kamachi Station. The Hokuhoku line connects Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen with T with Onsen Echigo-Yuzawa The Hokuhoku line connects Station. kamachi ( ) shinkansen ō http://kinare.jp/; 6 Honch http://kinare.jp/; T and other 30 minutes) (¥610, nec is really an enchanting scene of brilliant green brilliant green of an enchanting scene and its the region in the city, careers of in favour the farms leave generations as younger dying. slowly are life of way thatched ro ECHIGO-TSUMARI ART FIELD ART ECHIGO-TSUMARI mo the country’s of lie some Onsen Echigo-Yuzawa North of -tsumari.jp/eng) spread out over some 190,000 acres, are a hundred in a hundred are acres, 190,000 some out over spread international arti international really comes to life during the summer-long during the summer-long life to comes really 外海府ユースホステル directly slopes of GALA for the convenient and then back home. Though you Yuzawa needn’t pick your pleasure – there are still of onsen inns here, and a long soakplenty is the perfect on the mountain. end to a day believed, Echigo-Yuzawa was once a louche believed, Echigo-Yuzawa hot-spring retreat where geisha competed Thenfor guests’ affection. came skiing, and the perched near the shore about five minutesshore about near the perched stop. bus Minami-Himezu from the on foot family, Japanese knowledgeable run by a It’s tips for you some good outdoor who can give wildest stretch of coastline. exploring Sado’s which dorms, almost all of Rooms are basic sea views. have or.jp/yhguide/hokushinestu/sotokaif/index.html; or.jp/yhguide/hokushinestu/sotokaif/index.html; ¥3360, discount YHA dm ¥3960, Iwayaguchi; 131 ¥760/1260; breakfast/dinner in a tiny fishing hamlet, fishing in a tiny this cosy hostel may It’s be just the ticket for solitude-seekers. house, completein a traditional Sado-style with central hearth, that has been refitted rooms. Filling mealswith shared and private include fresh seafood. The hostel is right in ( front of the Iwayaguchi If Kawabata Yasunari’s famous novel Yasunari’s If Kawabata guni Echigo-Yuzawa Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen 越後湯沢温泉 025 / POP 8330 ( Sotokaifu Youth Hostel Youth Sotokaifu YHA discount ¥3360, breakfast/dinner ¥760/1260; ¥760/1260; breakfast/dinner ¥3360, discount YHA pn hoku, ō etsu ō SKIING & SNOWBOARDING & SKIING Naeba is an impres- Naeba Dec-Apr) ). Spanning a distance of ; www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/naeba; ; www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/naeba; h 苗場 from to Echigo-Yuzawa Tokyo Getting There Around & Activities

Naeba offers a snow park and sledding offers Naeba Six- and eight-person gondolas do a pret- トラゴンドラ苗場スキー場 shinkansen (¥6490,hours) 1¼ and GALA Yuzawa (¥6900, hours).1½ Trains continue from Echigo-Yuzawa to Niigata (¥5240, 50 minutes). town with a lot going on. is a little Naeba adjacent Kagu- only does it (along with Not challenging skiing some of the most ra) offer whole of T and snowboarding in the 2 Ski Resort Naeba ( BUS Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen is connected to Naeba by regular local buses (¥640, 40 minutes). A free shuttle runs between Echigo-Yuzawa Station and Yuzawa. GALA TRAIN There are several hourly trains on the J Naeba 025 biggest out- for Japan’s also the setting it’s Rock Festival. door music festival, Fuji 8 sive resort with 20 courses fairly evenly divided among the various skill levels. The longest run (4km) starts at the top of the mountain, and winds through birch forests and mogul fields prior to dropping a full kilometre in elevation. The snow tends to be dry and light, of ungroomed areasand there are plenty where you can carve up some serious powder. ones can roam free, as hill where the little snowboarding coursewell as a freestyle complete with rails, half pipes and kickers. English is everywhere, and you definitely won’t be the only foreigner on the slopes. At of the hill, you’llthe bottom find the N-Pla- teau, which is a massive complex complete with a full food court, onsen, convenience also rent equip- can store and ski shop. You per day. ment here for ¥4300 the crowds in check decent job of keeping ty at peak times. But if you find the lines a little too long for your liking, you can always named Dragondola jump on the awesomely ( day lift ticket/combined Naeba & Kagura & Kagura Naeba lift ticket/combined day ¥4500/5000; 5.5km, this is reportedly the longest gondola to Kagura in the world, and whisks you away in just 15 minutes. $$ $$ $$ INN INN HOTEL HOTEL RYOKAN RYOKAN This fam- ) tub or in the 780-6111; www. 780-6111; % Right outside the ) ; hinoki pniWs pW 784-3311; www.hakugin.com/ 784-3311; 784-3361; http://hatago-isen. 784-3361; Hatago Isen manages the Isen Hatago % ) . There’s a communal onsen . There’s tani % ; Ō p ; 井仙ニューオータニ

Hatago Isen Isen Hatago Sleeping rotemburo This wonderful little museum displays This displays museum wonderful little S

白銀閣華の宵 bath, too. Meals make the most of local in- make bath, too. Meals gredients and are unusually flexible: you can dinner courses choose from three different and even elect for lunch, to swap breakfast and a later checkout. aesthetic of an old-time travellers’ inn –aesthetic travellers’ of an old-time dark wood of with dim lighting and plenty modern amenities.– without skimping on Rooms vary from a humble six-mat space suites with pri- to rest your head to deluxe vate English.html; r per person without/with 2 meals without/with r per person English.html; ¥10,500/13,650; from ily and foreigner-friendly resort has its own ski park that is particularlybackyard suited for beginners and small children. Rooms are and reasonably spacious, and style Western of resort a whole range facilities, in- there’s run between shuttles cluding an onsen. Free Station and the resort in just Echigo-Yuzawa five minutes. naspanewotani.com; r per person with breakfast & with breakfast r per person naspanewotani.com; ¥11,000; from lift pass (NASPA NASPA New New NASPA ( Hakuginkaku Hana-no-yoi Hana-no-yoi Hakuginkaku o (HATAGO

Most visitors are day trippers from the capi- day visitors are Most ad- night to take tal, but you can spend the and aim to be thevantage of the hot springs, following day. first one on the slopes the 4 Tue) jp; 2455 Yuzawa; r per person with 1/2 meals from from with 1/2 meals r per person Yuzawa; jp; 2455 ¥8400/12,075; memorabilia from the life of Kawabata of Kawabata the life from memorabilia of recipient the first Japanese Yasunari, addition in for Literature, Prize the Nobel in snow about life displays to interesting country life. his classic book to that bring Sta- exit the west of Echigo-Yuzawa From walk to is a ten-minute tion, the museum the right. indoor marble bath. Dinner is served in the room, so you can stretch your legs out on the tatami. station’s east exit is this traditional ryokan station’s and secluded refuge from the madding on the slopes, you’llcrowds. After a day rel- ish the opportunity to soak contemplatively in the brisk outdoor

Ū (TŌHOKU) NIIGATA PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSH 66 67 NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) NIIGATA PREFECTURE Akaku- (http:// Dec-Apr) h SKIING & SNOWBOARDING & SKIING SKIING & SNOWBOARDING & SKIING 87-2169; www.akakura- 87-2169; Seibu Travel Seibu 妙高高原 % ; is one of the more popu- gen ō ō -J ko mountain range. On the mountain ko ī ō K For off-piste excitement, check off-piste For ō k ō Getting There & Away Activities

mobile 090-1433-1247; www.dancingsnow.com/ mobile 090-1433-1247; During peakski season, % 赤倉温泉スキー場 lar resorts, especially among travellers withlar resorts, especially among travellers of the 20 runssmall children. All but two were laid out with the needs of novice skiers in mind, and even the black diamonds more than short chutes. But theare little powder and picturesquehigh-quality setting ensure a good time for everyone. Family inspiration from drawing restaurants, many around theEuropean chalets, are scattered slopes. English signage is generally available. out these local experts for guided tours terrain, snowshoethrough the backwoods treks, as well as personalised one-on-one in- depend onstruction – all in English. Prices so contact of the tour, and type the length the ski school for more information. ski.com; day lift tickets ¥3900; lift tickets day ski.com; index_e.php) Dancing Snow Snow Dancing ( bus.seibutravel.co.jp/en) runs a shuttle bus between the Shinagawa Prince Hotel in Tokyo and Naeba (¥3500, 4 hours). My 0255 This skiing and snowboard- up-and-coming col- a sprawling ing destination comprises lection of powder-rich winter resorts that line the My less developedwhole, the region is much for areas, butmass tourism than neighbouring appeal is precisely this off-the-beaten-path near location why you should visit. Myoko’s the sea means that it gets snow before anyone else does, upwards of 13m per season. 2 Onsen Akakura Ski Park ( a communal room, but you’ll but room, a communal get cut to first to in the morning.tracks have that you Note to catch the in order by 3pm in Naeba arrive of liftssequence hut. up to the 8 Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen is connected to Naeba by regular local buses (¥640, 40 minutes). Free shuttle buses to the Prince Hotel also run this route, though you need to be a registered guest to take advantage of this service. ra Onsen Suk $$ HUT Dec- h HOTEL HOTEL LIVE MUSIC LIVE Fuji Rock Fuji SKIING & SNOWBOARDING & SKIING 789-2211; www.prince www.prince 789-2211; late July) late Naeba is an even Naeba % h ; ; www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/ Nov-May) 789-2211; http://www.princehotels. 789-2211; h % All of the ski action in Naeba cen- All of the ski action in Naeba ; ) Sleeping Festivals & Events The also runs this mountain Prince But don’t let fool you – the numbers 和田小屋プリンスホテル苗場かぐらスキー場 kagura; day lift ticket/combined Naeba & Kagura & Kagura Naeba ticket/combined lift day kagura; ¥4200/5000; May) Wadagoya Mountain Hut Wadagoya Prince Hotel Naeba Naeba Hotel Prince Naeba gets trippers. Bed- its fair share of day Naeba Onsen helps ding down here or in Yuzawa you get the most out of your ski holiday. 4 z Festival Rock Fuji (www.fujirockfestival.com; ( ( pniW Kagura Ski Resort Resort Ski Kagura ( com/en/ski/mtnaeba/accommodation.html; r per com/en/ski/mtnaeba/accommodation.html; ¥4500/7000; 2 meals without/with person Festival is three days of musical madness of is three days Festival only with toilets and less Woodstock, – like mud (usually) – and up to 100,000 people show up to hang out, listen to great bands and enjoy the party Headliners atmosphere. include top overseas and domestic acts in a variety of genres. tres on this monolithic resort at the base of is a range of West- the mountain. On offer that vary rooms and suites ern-style consid- erably in size, amenities and price – check online for specials – in addition to a whole slew restaurants and health of bars, cafes, and fitness facilities. more attractive winter destination when youdestination winter more attractive with Kagura, an contiguous it’s consider that Divid- in its own right. impressive mountain Mitsumata Kagura and Tashiro, ed into the additional 23 up an areas, this resort offers be- divided 45/35/20 among runs that are and advanced. intermediate ginner, Kagura has a lax policy on back-country skiing, which means that experienced alpi- an extreme adventurenists can really have those who feel more comfort- up here. For fretable sticking to the trails, not, as one of an impressive 6kmthe courses here reaches With the combined pass, you canin length. the Dragondola atalso return by to Naeba one of the free time, or alternatively take any of buses that depart from the bottom shuttle area. the Mitsumata hotels.co.jp/naeba; r per person from ¥8000; from r per person hotels.co.jp/naeba; hut up on Kagura. Sleeping is on futons in ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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