INSIDE: Three Famous Italian Libraries 5 Help for Mobility Challenged Train Travelers 6 Making Mosaics in Rome 7 All photos by Jerome Levine All photos by New Puglia Resort 8 Malatestiana Library Linda Park Lyons Linda Park Giovanni serves dinner Visit Europe’s dream of First ® in

f you’re a lover of books and libraries like I am, you’ll get a I rush stepping inside what is said to be the first public and monastic library in Europe, Istituzione Biblioteca Malatestiana or the Volume 11, Issue 1 www.dreamofitaly.com February 2012 Malatestiana Library. The experience is made even more remarkable when you learn that despite wars and Home Food: natural disasters, the building, furnishings and manuscripts have all Dinner with the Locals remained virtually untouched since the structure was built in the middle had been trying to attend a homes for lovingly prepared meals of the 15th century. I Home Food meal at a private featuring traditional regional recipes home in Italy since I first learned of the (usually passed down through the On a recent road trip along the Via organization in the winter of 2005. families of the cesarini) and local Emilia (the ancient Roman road that Somehow the stars never aligned until ingredients. “Home Food’s mission is runs from Rimini to Piacenza), my this past fall when a dinner in Florence based on the idea that good traditional husband and I had the opportunity to fit perfectly in my food can be a tool to build up and visit an abundance of impressive schedule. And may I say, preserve a culture,” fortresses, castles and churches in a it was worth the wait… says director Cristina land that is rich with layers of history. Fortini. It is a unique But when we stopped to tour the Preserving a Food opportunity to connect small town of Cesena, near the center Culture with local Italians (most of the province of Emilia-Romagna, we speak fluent English) chanced upon the Malatestiana Home Food is non-profit and enjoy an incredible Library, an unexpected gem at the cultural association that Lyons Linda Park meal. foot of the verdant Appenine seeks to protect and Mountains. promote Italy’s gastronomic heritage. It I had been receiving the Home Food was founded by Egeria Di Nallo, a emails with their schedule of meals The local tourist office provided the sociologist at the University of (mostly dinners but sometimes assistance of a delightful English Bologna, and is supported in part by lunches) for the coming months. Home interpreter, Nicoletta Spinolo, who the Italian Ministry of Agriculture. A Food has 20 to 25 meals planned each accompanied us on the short walk network of guest cooks (cesarini — month during the summer, fewer at along cobbled streets to the meaning “little Caesars”) welcome other times of the year. Though there Domenica Malatesta Novella, which Italians and foreigners alike into their continued on page 2 continued on page 4 Home Food has 10,000 members. Home Food continued from page 1

“Therefore, to the question that asks b him from where his passion for cooking Giovanni’s was born, he answers: ‘Like everything ITALIAN in life, it originates from love.’” PEAR CAKE are now cesarini in many parts of Italy, They escort us into the colorful, the most popular offerings are in antiques-and painting-filled Bologna, Rome and Tuscany. living/dining room where a fire is blazing in the fireplace, and two other I chose a dinner called “The cooking: a Home Food guests, newlyweds Linda passion born from love, like anything and Richard Parks from Dallas, are else in life…with Giovanni in waiting. As we gather around Florence” and paid online for both a Giovanni’s table topped with Asian- required membership in inspired, antique plates Home Food and the and stemware, I pick up dinner. Fortini contacted the evening’s program Ingredients me to find out if my and menu sitting next to February 2012 2.2 lbs pears mother (who would be my plate and read a bit 2 3 eggs joining me) and I had why Giovanni is our 7 tbsp butter any food allergies, as she host tonight: 1 cup flour could make sure ½ cup sugar Giovanni accommodated “Everything started Linda Park Lyons Linda Park vanilla-flavored sugar us. A few weeks ahead, many years ago when, 1 dose yeast she sent me Giovanni’s almost aged thirty, he 1 glass milk full name, address and decided to leave his Directions phone numbers. home in the province, in

www.dreamofitaly.com his native city of Carrara, Mix and whisk all the ingredients Dinner in Florence that had become too together in a bowl. much narrow to end Pour the mixture into a baking When the night of the there his exploration of pan previously greased dinner arrives, I admit life, and to arrive in and sprinkled that I’m a bit nervous. I’ve traveled to Firenze, a city of wide breath. Here, with flour. Italy dozens of times and been to many firstly he became a student of a small Italian homes, so I am surprised by this private school of restoration, Top with the peeled pears feeling and should encourage others supporting himself in a rented flat by cut into quarters. not to miss a Home Food dinner just doing his previous job, and then he also Put pan into oven and bake because it might be a little out of your met people who changed and enriched at 340 degrees Fahrenheit comfort zone. As we walk through the his new life. In fact, an artisan friend of for 40 minutes. door of Giovanni’s apartment into his his preciously taught him and the book-lined entrance hall, all nerves figure of a French woman initiated him Once the cake is baked and fade with a warm welcome by into the cooking. Therefore, to the taken out of the oven, sprinkle Giovanni, a tall, older, bearded question that asks him from where his the vanilla-flavored sugar gentleman, and his friend, Jacques, passion for cooking was born, he over it in as a garnish. both of whom speak impeccable answers: ‘Like everything in life, it English. originates from love.’” Home Food now offers co The selection process for a cesarina Ferragosto which was recently released Marsala wine and also brings out (female ) or cesarino (male) is rigorous with subtitles in the U.S.) and places to Pernigotti chocolates. Mama mia! and administered by the director and visit in Italy. an admission committee. At the But Giovanni has saved the best suggestion of a friend, Giovanni Our main course is scamerita, a cut of surprise for last. He walks into another contacted Home Food. Fortini pork between the neck and shoulder. part of his apartment and returns with interviewed him on the phone about He tells us how he has baked the a framed work of art as a present for his love of food and then came to scamerita for two hours in white wine, newlyweds Richard and Linda. It is an Florence for an in-person meeting. olive oil, whole garlic and rosemary. image painted on glass, a copy of a Along with other members of the The sides are spinach as well as wine- mosaic found in Pompeii showing admission committee, Fortini visited soaked pears. The pear theme Ulysses and Penelope in “conjugal Giovanni’s home for a meal, evaluating continues with homemade pear sorbet affection.” Not wanting to leave me the setting, the menu, how he cooked and a pear tart. Giovanni serves sweet out, he goes inside and returns with a and interacted with the guests. He similar but smaller piece of a gold bird passed a most difficult test. painted on glass. All of us are touched and thrilled to have something lasting Tuscan Culinary Treasures with which to remember this convivial night. Our traditional Tuscan dinner begins with crostini di fegatini (chicken liver on € bread) which Giovanni prepares in his 1 = $1.32 at press time unique way, as more of a pate with capers, garlic and some Pecorino February 2012 cheese. As we sip a local red, Giovanni dream of 3 retreats to the kitchen and returns with ® a piping hot platter of testaroli topped h with pesto. Testaroli is a simple, ancient ITALY pasta made with flour, water and salt The Details Kathleen A. McCabe (no eggs) that is popular in Giovanni’s Editor and Publisher hometown of Carrara, but hard to find Home Food here in Florence. Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe Via Broccaindossa, 41 Design: Leaird Designs www.dreamofitaly.com Bologna www.leaird-designs.com Our conversation is just as appetizing (39) 051 220727 as the food. We learn more about Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover- www.homefood.it ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a Giovanni’s friend, Jacques, who is a year. Delivery by mail is $99 in the U.S. and Canada and librarian at Palazzo Strozzi and also $109 abroad. An Internet subscription (downloadable Register on the website to receive teaches Italian film classes to American PDFs) costs $79 per year. Subscriptions include online a monthly email of the next month’s access to over 85 back issues and regular e-mail updates. students at Middlebury College’s scheduled meals around Italy. Three ways to subscribe: study abroad program in Florence. 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 2025, Since the schedule is only released Linda and Richard share tales from Denver, CO 80201 a month ahead of time, if you are 2. Call 877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-297-3708 their honeymoon so far in Italy and www.dreamofitaly.com planning further in advance, you 3. Subscribe online at (Visa, Richard explains he studied Italian in Mastercard and American Express accepted) might want to e-mail Home Food at college and that’s why he wanted to Editorial feedback is welcome. [email protected] to request a par- E-mail: [email protected] come back to Italy. As Italian President ticular city and date. Membership Advertising opportunities are available. Silvio Berlusconi is about to resign from (3.50€ per person) is required to E-mail: [email protected] office, Giovanni and I discuss just how attend an event. Home Food meals Copyright © 2012 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights bad the Italian economy is. We all Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- generally cost about 39€ and can share favorite books (including Mary mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide be paid for in advance via PayPal. information that is accurate and reliable; however, Taylor Simonetti’s books on Sicily), Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that movies (the Italian film Pranzo di may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com oking classes for all levels. Library continued from page 1

houses the library in a wing of the benefactor, Malatesta Novella, a wealthy “church in miniature.” Divided into monastery between its two cloisters. Cesena nobleman. At the top of the three naves, the wide center aisle is doors is the familiar flanked by 20 impressive white, floor- Once there, a custodian elephant emblem of to-ceiling columns, each one bearing warmly welcomed us in the Malatesta family the Malatesta coat of arms at its top. Italian and then took two that we had also seen large keys out of his pocket in the Duomo in On each side of the center nave are 29 to unlock the imposing Rimini. rows of dark wooden “pluteuses” that dark wooden doors. look like pews but multitask as seats

Carved in an ornate Gothic Jerome Levine Entering the long, with inclined lecterns and bookshelves style, the doors have repeated rows of rectangular hall with terra cotta floors, beneath. They, too, are embellished rosettes and helixes in a checkered you feel like you have stepped back in with Malatesta heraldry, painted in design, celebrating the library’s time. Some have called the library a red, white and green colors, in case someone might forget the name of the angel philanthropist.

Planning a Visit Metal braces, placed there by ingenious engineers centuries ago, As soon as you arrive, stop at the Cesena tourist niently located in the town center on the site of a support the beautiful vaulted ceiling office. The tourist office provides excellent maps former inn built in 1854, one of Cesena’s oldest. that has survived a series of and helpful guides to the town’s sights that are Rocco Angarola, the good-humored chef/owner earthquakes in the area. Used only available in different languages. They may also who resembles a hefty Roberto Benigni, worked during daylight hours, the light-filled February 2012 be able to provide you with an interpreter. in Minneapolis for many years before returning hall is illuminated by arched windows home to continue the cooking traditions of his on both sides and a circular window at 4 Before you head off to the heritage. The homemade pasta, the front. Chained to each of the desks library, linger and look around traditional piadina bread and are the large leather-bound books, the the Piazza del Popolo to see the local Sangiovese wine are recently renovated Masini size of unabridged dictionaries, which wonderful. Fountain as well as the town were all astonishingly handwritten hall, the Venetian Lodge and the Then find your way to visit the prior to the invention of the printing Nuti Tower. picturesque Abbey of St. Maria press. del Monte, perched on the top While at the Malatestiana www.dreamofitaly.com of a hill that can be seen from The idea for the humanist library, Library, stop inside the room just most streets in the historic cen- which was built between 1447 and across the way. There, the ter. The abbey is more than 1452, is attributed to Friars of St. Piana Library contains over 1,000 years old and has a Francis, who wanted a study area 5,000 precious volumes from priceless collection of small annexed to their monastery. In what the 15th to 19th century as well painted votive tablets (called ex- has been called the golden age of this as the personal library of Pope votos). city, Malatesta Novello agreed to fund Pius VII (one of three popes the project. This entailed both building born in Cesena), choral books, the smallest book Malatestiana Library in the world, and a Gospel book dated 1104. Piazza Bufalini, 1 the structure, and acquiring and (39) 0547 610892 commissioning the books. His team of Also visit La Rocca, the impressive, pentagonal www.malatestiana.it “librarians” organized a two-decade walled Malatestian Fortress in Cesena, which has Hours vary; check website before going. long effort to transcribe books they two towers: one used as a museum of agricultural found elsewhere in Europe and return history (depicting rural life in the area), and the Cesena Tourist Office to Cesena with their contents. Six or other a museum housing a collection of Piazza del Popolo, 15 seven Nordic writers were charged Malatestian ceramics. (39)0547 356327 with copying the books into Gothic or www.turismo.comune.cesena.fc.it A wonderful place to take a break for lunch is the semi-Gothic script; others were tasked Osteria Michiletta on Via Strinati, 41. It is conve- to illustrate and bind them. The first public library ope The library holdings, totaling 343 manuscripts, include legal, medical and scientific, literary, theological and Other Noteworthy Italian Libraries philosophical works, as well as 14 Greek codices and seven Hebrew ones. Italy is home to a number of impressive historic libraries including the following: While this library is open to the public, it wasn’t a lending library; in fact, the books remain attached to the wooden 25,000 manuscripts. The public library was desks by heavy wrought iron chains as established in 1714 from the collection of Italian they were then, subdivided by subject scholar Antonio Magliabechi, who amassed and kept in precise order. 30,000 volumes. The library originally housed its books in a building adjacent to the Uffizi Gallery, The people of Cesena always took but moved into its current building on the Arno great pride in their library as they still River in 1935. Notable items include a collection do today, which is probably why it is of 347 manuscripts belonging and relating to so well preserved. In 1461, Malatesta, flickr.com Perugia-City.com, Galileo, and two globes produced by Italian cos- who turned out to be the last of the Biblioteca Sandro Penna (Perugia) mographer Vincenzo Coronelli in 1696. town’s noblemen, entrusted the Cesena www.comune.perugia.it/canale.asp?id=3730 community to maintain strict controls (39) 075 5772500 over the library jointly with the friars Vatican Library (Rome) This public library, located in the San Sisto dis- who were www.vaticanlibrary.va trict of Perugia, was named for 20th-century responsible (39) 06698 79411

Perugian-born poet Sandro Penna. Its modern February 2012 for design and open floor plan make it an anomaly The Vatican Library is among the oldest libraries overseeing among Italy’s traditional and historic buildings – in the world – though it was established at 5 its use. it was built in 2004 and designed to look like a the Vatican com- This flying saucer. The library’s transparent magenta plex in 1448, its explains walls and disc shape allow plenty of light to flow collection of vol- the dual in, creating a homey and relaxing feel. The airy, umes dates back key security system that was in place informal space is equipped with multimedia sta- to before the for so many years: one key was for the tions on all three floors, as well as a colorful 13th century. The town officials and one for the monks. area catering to children. At night, the illuminat- library currently ed building casts an ethereal glow. holds 1.1 million www.dreamofitaly.com After Malatesta Novello’s death, the books and town council obtained permission to 75,000 manu- excommunicate anyone who Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale di Firenze scripts, including flickr.com JoAnn Miller, attempted to remove one of the (Florence) illuminated man- volumes. Today, the library’s holdings www.bncf.firenze.sbn.it uscripts. The Codex Vaticanus Graecus 1209, represent a treasure trove for scholars. (39) 055 249191 the oldest known manuscript of the Bible, was Because of its unique place in history, written on 759 pages of vellum paper in 350 AD in 2005, the Malatestiana Library was The National and has been at the Vatican Library since the recognized as the first UNESCO Central Library of 15th century. The library is only open to teach- Memory of the World site in Italy. Florence is the ers, researchers and scholars who have a rele- largest library in vant need to access its collection. —Irene S. Levine, PhD Italy, holding a collection of more —Elaine Murphy Irene Levine wrote about the cooking school and museum Casa Artusi in the December than 5,600,000 2010/January 2011 issue of Dream of Italy. books, 29,000 Visit her website at www.irenelevine.com 16th-century vol- 1 € = $1.32 at press time

umes and nearly flickr.com littleforestything, ned in the 4th century B.C. News, Tips, Deals

Sala Blu Offers Assistance in Italy’s Train Stations

y sister recently had a knee operation, still tion and seat booking requests. There are Sala time of travel; the type of service you will need; and M uses a cane from time to time and while we Blu service centers in 14 major Italian rail stations a phone number where you can be reached. You were traveling by train from Florence to Rome, we but the service can also be arranged from 252 sta- can also e-mail your request to one of the major needed help. I contacted Sala Blu, a service rail stations (you can find their indi- offered by TrenItalia, which runs Italy’s rail vidual e-mail addresses at the link network, to help passengers with mobility above). problems. In Florence, the Sala Blu repre- sentative wheeled her to the particular If your plans are more last minute, train car and put the luggage on and then you can call (39) 199 303060 or (39) forwarded the information to our destina- 199 892021 and select option “7” sammydavisdog, flickr.com sammydavisdog, tion, in this case, Rome. We were met by flickr.com Shaun Merritt, one hour before your departure (if calling between the hours of 8 a.m. and 10 p.m.) or people from Sala Blu when our train arrived in tions across Italy (a complete list can be found at 10 hours prior to departure (if calling between 10 Rome and they took our luggage off the train and www.bit.ly/salablustations). Passengers should p.m. and 8 a.m.). If you are arriving or departing on helped us to a taxi. There is no charge for the serv- report to the assistance point in the station 30 an international train, you can call (39) 06 4881726 ice but we tipped all who helped us. minutes before departure. at least 24 hours before your departure. The Sala Blu service is available to the disabled, E-mail Sala Blu in advance at assistenzaclientidis- —Cynthia Luzon February 2012 elderly or pregnant, and offers assistance with lug- [email protected] In your e-mail, state the station 6 gage and wheelchair transfers as well as informa- of arrival, departure and connection; your date and Did you know your Dream of Italy Italy Foodie subscription includes exclusive Happenings in 2012 Italy travel discounts? A New Eataly Opens www.dreamofitaly.com Where: Rome at the former Air Terminal Ostiense When: April 21, 2012 Why: Explore 12,000 square feet of Italy’s best culinary products and dine at any of 11 restaurants. You’ve never seen a “supermarket” like this before. Details at: www.roma.eataly.it Slow Food Salone del Gusto/ Terra Madre Save on: * villa rentals * cooking classes Where: Turin When: October 25 to 29, 2012 * car rentals * walking tours * private guides Why: Every other year, Slow Food lovers from and more… 150 countries convene on Turin to hold the world’s largest artisanal food marketplace. Taste delicacies from throughout Italy and around the world. Visit www.dreamofitaly.com/discounts.html Details at: www.salonedelgusto.com for your discount codes! Italy’s new high-speed rai il line starts up this spring. startsil line up this and Events in theVatican’s mosaicstudio inthe17thcentury. glass. The techniquewassaidtohavebeen born even makingfilati,microtilesmade withsmalti mosaic ortakelongercoursesinglass fusionor Here atthestudio,youcancraftyour veryown peutic qualitiesofthisartform. than twodecades,andsheswearsbythethera- mosaics formore al andmodern together tradition- has beenpiecing plished artist,she Nadia. dio’s manager, comed bythestu- you willbewel- Upon entering, craft ofmosaics. ancient Roman delve intothe chance toreally della Lungara studio tuckedawayonasmallstreetjustoff bit morehandson? At rience intheEternalCity, whynottrysomethinga C I multiple languages. proficiency inmartialartstofluency requires diverseskills—everythingfrom perform anaround-the-clockjobthat Vatican City, butdon’tbefooled,they helmets, standingattheentrancesto colorful stripeduniformsandfeathered ing theirlives. They maylookodd,intheir Pope andhisstaff, evenifthatmeansgiv- the world. They mustsweartoprotectthe or arelookingforauniqueandauthenticexpe- f you’vealreadydonetheusualsightsinRome Guards makeuptheoldeststandingarmyin reated under An accom- A Rare Visit totheSwissGuards ArmoryattheVatican Take aMosaicsClassinRome in Trastevere, Pope JuliusII Aegea Mosaici, visitors havethe in 1506,theSwiss a quaintart

All photos by Michelle Monteclaro Via

All photos by Michelle Monteclaro www.aegeamosaici.com. more information,call(39)066872610 orvisit offers longertermcoursesthatmeetweekly. For you’re stayinglong-terminRome,thestudioalso costs 25€andaseven-hourworkshopis85€.If through Friday, 10a.m.to7p.m. A two-hourclass realized inbothclassicandmodernstylesthe or withoutpreviousartisticexperience.Works are among peopleofallagesandbackgrounds,with rations. Now, itsaimistospreadinspiration and installingmosaicsforflooring,wallsdeco- Agaea Mosaicibeganasalaboratoryforcreating planning, theycangetarareglimpseofthehisto- Few visitorstoVatican Cityrealizethatwithalittle to the ry ofthePope’s soldierswithavisit Swiss GuardsArmory, —Danielle Rovet is openMonday at Via Corsini, 8, Agaea Mosaici, locals. tions withthe ing upconversa- occasion forstrik- offers theperfect mate atmosphere inti- mosaics. The of classicRoman tion anddepiction in thereproduc- studio specializes located [email protected] charge. Fax(39)0669885122and/or e-mail are oneoftheluckyones,visitsfree response maytakeabitofpersistence,andifyou of theCorpsafewweeksinadvance.Receiving sending arequestbyfaxore-mailtotheColonel visitors cansneakarareopportunitytotouritby The armoryisgenerallyclosedtothepublic,but major eventsoftheCatholiccalendar. such astheswearinginofnewguardsand of theguards,stillwornonceremonialoccasions mets withredfeathers,whicharetraditionalarmor take alookatthesteelchestplate,andironhel- old originalascloselypossible. You canalso modern uniformwhilestillresemblingthecenturies Colonel Repond Michelangelo, that thepresentuniformwasdesignedby taloons— developedovertheyears.Itisamyth mets andblue,yellowredtunicspan- that weknowtoday—whitegloves,featheredhel- See howthecolorfuluniformofSwissGuards Swiss assaultrifles. weapons includemuskets,riflesandmostrecently ies inthe16thcentury. Their armory’s modern that wereaparticularfavoriteofSwissmercenar- ered themostemblematicweaponofcorps— combination ofswordandbattleaxthatisconsid- Inspect theflame-bladedswordsandhalberds—a of thecorpsin1500s. the guardhaseverpossessedsincecreation elite forces.Itholdsalmosteveryoriginalweapon the historyandevolutionofarmsusedby lection ofweapons. The armoryoffers aglimpseof boast anextensiveandhistoricallyfascinatingcol- Rome in1527.Despitebeingapacificarmy, they history, themostfamousbeingduringSackof The SwissGuardsfoughtfewtimesthroughout in thebasementoftheirbarracks. G 1 but itwasactuallydesignedby € in 1917,whowantedtocreatea = $1.32atpress time —D.R.

www.dreamofitaly.com February 2012 7 Puglia’s Borgo Egnazia

uglia, Italy’s southeastern region at yet warm and friendly—rustic chic. P the “heel” of the boot, is bordered The feelings conveyed are comfort, by both the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, warmth and relaxation. Elements of giving it one of the longest coastlines nature, reflective of Puglia’s close water sports such as sailing and wind of any region in Italy—almost 500 connection to the land are apparent surfing or just loll in the comfortable miles. Most of Puglia is flat and throughout with stone floors, cotton chaises. A cigar lounge, game room, agricultural, growing fruit, vegetables window treatments, and ample reading room, and boutique are other and grain in its mild Mediterranean displays of dried wood. But the rooms places to while away the hours here. climate. Almond trees and olive groves have all the modern conveniences, The Trullalleri Kids Club handles flourish; there are more than 50 million such as tilting mirrors and excellent children from ages eight to thirteen olive trees (strictly protected) in this toiletries in the bathroom, iPod docks, and the Fichi d’India Teen Club region alone! flat-screen TVs and provides all kinds of complimentary wireless activities for the older It’s in this lovely setting that you will Internet access. set, including golf and find the Borgo Egnazia, a stunning tennis clinics and a resort built in creamy white stone multimedia area. and stucco with Renaissance, Moorish and Norman influences. And let’s not forget the San Domenico Hotels (owners of 20,000 square foot the famous nearby Masseria San spa/wellness center, Domenico) created the property called Vair. The variety February 2012 from the ground up in the town of treatments here 8 of Savelletri di Fasano, about 45 range from natural minutes from Bari. It opened in April There are several ways facial treatments to 2011. to keep oneself flotation sessions to the occupied here, use of the tepidarium, Only a golf course, owned by San including the 18-hole calidarium, Domenico Hotels, separates the borgo championship golf course along the frigidarium, salt sauna, whirlpool, (meaning hamlet in Italian) from the Adriatic (shared with two other cleansing and purification rituals to Adriatic Sea. There are 63 rooms and properties in the San Domenico manicures and pedicures.

www.dreamofitaly.com suites in La Corte, the resort’s central collection—guests of the Borgo have building. The borgo, set up as a small first dibs on tee times). Three outdoor The borgo’s location makes a great village with charming lanes, pink and pools, and an indoor pool, allow for a base for seeing some of Puglia’s many purple bougainvillea and characteristic change of scenery near the highlights: the trulli Puglian white and cream walls, water. The tennis academy (conical stone houses) contains another 92 units, ranging from offers lessons with of Alberobello, the 485-square-foot rooms to two- professionals on three The Details white-washed town of bedroom townhouses with fully courts, one of which is Ostuni, the vineyards equipped kitchenettes, two bathrooms grass. Borgo Egnazia of Locorotondo and the a large sitting area, and a furnished Savelletri di Fasano Baroque city of Lecce patio. There are an additional 28 three- The resort’s talented chef (39) 080 2255000 are all within an hour’s bedroom villas of almost 2700 square offers cooking classes www.borgoegnazia.com drive. Not that you’ll feet, accommodating six guests. These focusing on fresh local ever want to leave. Rates: Superior doubles start luxury villas have fireplaces, full ingredients. The two at 176 to 312€ per night, kitchens including dishwashers, dining private beach clubs cater —Rosanne Cofoid depending on the season. rooms and pools. to both families and those Villas start at 855€ per night Rosanne Cofoid, president traveling without children; during the high season. of La Dolce Via Travel The tasteful accommodations are both offer dining options. (www.ladolceviatravel.com), united in styling—eclectic, and modern One can participate in creates custom Italy itineraries. The largest aqueduct in Europe is in Bari.