Perfume's Creative

Perfume’s Creative Art The Questions

Glen O. Brechbill

Fragrance Books Inc.

www.perfumerbook.com

New Jersey - USA

2011

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

“To my parents whose faith in my work & abilities made this manuscript possible”

PERFUME’S CREATIVE ART - THE QUESTIONS ©

This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

Library of Congress

Brechbill, Glen O. Perfume’s Creative Art - The Questions / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 208 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title.

Certificate Registry # TXu 1 - 621 - 855

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition

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About the Book

This book is about the questions. I gleamed about 125 pages out of 1,300 pages. How to interview a perfumer of course is at the heart of the creative art. In most cases however, the questions rarely varies. Prior to 2007 interview articles were rather rare. Most were linked to on line newspaper type-sites. After 2007 as more blogs related to fragrance appeared on the world wide web more interviews appeared. Perfume personalities from many sides of the industry gave their time and expertise willingly. Just finding and collecting and collat- ing the enclosed articles took close to ten years of work. It’s a secretive industry, and finding data took many hours of research.

If I had a perfumer to interview I would ask him or her how they got into the art. Which school did they graduate from. Whom did they apprentice under. Which fragrance house did they work for first. What was their first fragrance creation. What do they think about the current creative environment ( IFRA ). What do they think of the future of fragrance considering Giaudan, IFF and Symrise have set up fine fragrance creative centers in China and India plus Brazil. Are they worried that down the road the art is in danger of dying due to the computer. Are they concerned that consumers are being mislead as to the danger’s of fine fragrances due to synthetics. What is their opinion of the folks in advertising, marketing and public relations who provide exaggerations about what their craft is, and isn’t.

To the point questions like this are being ignored because they are not glamorous. It is my understanding if one doesn't keep one's mouth shut about the absence of natural materials in today's blends you will find yourself either fired or on a blacklist. The natural perfumers are slowly taking over this portion of the business. For the most part these folks are poorly trained and educated regarding their creative competence. A single book or two does not give one all the answers. The essential oil houses to extend profits cut natural materials. Consequently unless one is a chemist with access to an expensive gas chromatography computer one can not guarantee a fragrance is a hundred percent natural.

Since the beginning of 2011 another thing you rarely see are interviews by perfumers. Whether this is something new is not known. The creative art of perfume is a wonderful creative skill poorly understood by most. Letting folks in the advertising, marketing and public relations twist it into fantasies misleads the consumer, and indirectly I think has lead to its decline. A well known writer said that in one of his last articles, fine fragrances are similar to a pyramidal marketing scheme. Each new fragrance built on the last one. Getting cheaper all the time without essential oils incorporating fewer aroma materials.

At some point the consumer will get weary of the constant turn over and hype, and will eventually tune out this expensive not needed product. That in itself should give the fragrance industry worry.

3 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL Fine Fragrance Artist’s

VOLUME I A - E Roberto Ascoli Carlos Benaïm Alain Astori Nathalie Benareau Burt Acerfig Pierre Aulas Henri Bergia Gail Adrian ~ natural Isabelle Aurel ~ natural Ann Berilloux Mandy Aftel ~ natural J. Auvray Domitille Bertier Jack Agran Lynn Ayre ~ natural Jean-Pierre Béthouart Alessandro Agrati John Ayres Christian Biecher Nazir Ajmal Henning Biehl Alain Alchenberger Dora Baghriche Robert Bienaime Yael Alkalay ~ natural Jerzy Bajgrowicz Mathilde Bijaoul Bob Aliano Stephanie Bakouche Norbert Bijaoui Alain Allione Alexandra Balahoutis ~ natural Marcel Billot Michel Almairac François-Raphaël Balestra Patrica Bilodeau Henri Almeras Christine Baillifard Marc Blaison Marc Amandine Ted Barba Bernard Blanc Jean Amic Phillipe Barbossa Honorine Blanc Sandra Anderson ~ natural Celine Barel Maurice Blanchet ( 1890 - 1953 ) Maison Andrae Anne Barkley Jean Francois Blayn Will Andrews Manolo Barrado Francis Bocris Daniela ( Roche ) Andrier David Basile Han-Paul Bodifee Daunte Pajaujis Anonis Joanne Bassett ~ natural Francesco Borghese Nicolas Anorga Napoleão Bastos Jr. David Botello Jean-Luc Ansel Ahmet Baydar Etienne Bouckaert Gerard Anthony Beverly Bayne Emilie Bouge David Apel Soizic Beaucourt Evelyne Boulanger Steffen Arctander - Author Nicolas Beaulieu Pierre Bourdon Kari Arienti Edouard Beaux Bernard Bourjeois Virginie Armand Ernest Beaux ( 1881 - 1961 ) Brigitte Bourney-Romagne Pierre Armigeant Calice Becker Philippe Bousseton Susan Arslaner Paul Bedoukian Phd. - Author Dirk Braun Landi Arturetto James Bell Glen O. Brechbill - Author Calice Asancheyev-Becker Claudette Belnavis Odette Breil-Radius

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Shirley Brodi Marc Chaillant Phil Cunningham Maureen Brooks Bernard Chant ( d. 1987 ) Harry A. Cuttler Christopher Brosius Anne Sophie Chapuis Alexis Dadier Roger Broudoux Gabriela Chelariu Ernest Daltroff ( 1867 - 1941 ) Laurent Bruyere ( d. 2008 ) Andre Chenier Claire dal Zotto Chris Buccellato Karine Chevallier Marc Fanton d’Andon Felix Buccellato Marc Chevrier Carl D’Andrea - Phd Jessica Buchanan Antoine Chiris Nicolas Danila Daphney Bugey Patricia Choux Leonardo D’Ascanio Tony Burfield Fabienne Christensen Vioaline David Irina Burlakova Christina Christie Nicolas de Barry Arthur Burnham Phlippe Chuit ( 1866 - 1939 ) Yves de Chirin Betty Busse Blazenka Cisko-Anic Lambert Dekker Mark Buxton Steve Claisse Elisabeth de Feydeau Annie Buzantian Peter Coates Petra De Jong Beatrice Cointreau Sylvaine Delacourte Jean-Francois Cabos Violaine Collas Francis Deleamont Corinne Cachen Léonce Collas Jean Claude Delville Clare Cain Phillippe Collet Francois Demachy Jerry Caiazzo Sonia Constant Remco de Meijere Nick Calderone Mark Constantine Steve de Mercado Yves Caldrone Simon Constantine Patricia de Nicolaï Francis Camail Emille ( Bevierre ) Copperman Marie-Anne de Puy Raimond Arcadi Boix Camps Joachim Correll Stephanie de Saint-Aignan Brian Campbell Bruce Edward Corritan Jacques de Sarrazin Frank Cardillo Ana Corsini Sabine De Tscharner Cyrille Carles Marc-Antoine Corticchiato Christophe de Villeplee Jean Carles ( 1892 - 1966 ) Jill Costa Claudine de Vogel Marcel Carles Zoe Coste Jean Desprez Françoise Caron Marion Costero Mona di Orio Pierre-Yves Carriou Natasha Cote Jean Jacques Diener Francesca Casiraghi Francois Coty ( 1874 - 1934 ) Alexandrine Demmerle Silvana Casoli Yves Coueslant Claude Dir Yves Cassar Fabienne Coupaye George Dodd Josephine Catapano Gerard Coupy Françoise Donche Jane Cate ~ natural Rosin Courage Loc Dong Jacques Cavallier Jacques Courtin Bertrand Dor Germaine Cellier ( 1909 - 1976 ) Marie-Aude Couture Bluche Alfred D’Orsay Maurizio Cerriza Justine Crane ~ natural Stephen Dowthwaite Nathalie Cetto Irwin Creed Roja Dove Jacques Chabert Olivier Creed Isabelle Doyen Jean-Marc Chaillan Olivier Cresp Kathleen Drier Raymond Chaillian Judith Cross Zerlina Dubois

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Dominique Dubrana ~ natural Jacques Flori Olivia Giacobetti Karine Dubreuil Christiane Flos Henry Giboulet ( 1911 - 1966 ) Marie Duchêne Jan Fockenbrock Olivier Gillotin Isabelle Dufour Lisa Fong ~ natural Dominique Gindre Bertrand Duchaufour Thomas Fontaine Michel Girard Alfredo Dupetit-Bernardi ~ natural Ellie Fox Kara Girardi Roger Duprey Volke Franck Pascal Giraux Jean-Michel Duriez Maia Frattini E. Giron André Fraysse ( 1902 - 1976 ) Hubert de Givenchy Michael Edwards Claude Fraysse Azzi Glasser Margot Elena Jacqueline Fraysse Enrique J. Gomez-Dueso Bernard Ellena Richard Fraysse Robert Gonon ( 1926 - 1988 ) Celine Ellena Stefano Frecceri Adam Gottshalk ~ natural Jean-Claude Ellena Harry Fremont Ann Gottlieb Jérôme Epinette Alexandre Freile Michel Gouges Laurie Erickson ~ natural Andre Fromentin Gerard Goupy Ilias Ermenidis George Fuchs Camille Goutal Bernard Escano Frank Fundaro Nathalie Gracia-Cetto Charna Ethier ~ natural Yasuo Fujiwara Sidonie Grandperret Lois Evans Olivier Funel Martin Gras Fanny Grau - Jr. Perfumer VOLUME II F - L Antoine Gaillard Jean Louis Grauby Claude Galien Jean Babtiste Grenouille - murderer Marion Fabre John Gamba Sophia Grojsman Francis Fabron Catherine Ganahl Alessandro Gualtieri Laurence Fanuel Nathalie Garacia-Cetto Pascal Guarin Jean-Louis Fargeon Luis H. Garcia Pierre-Constantin Gueros Johann Maria Farina 1658 - 1766 Bruce Garlick Aimé Guerlain ( 1834 - 1910 ) Johann Maria Farina Michel Garnero Jacques Guerlain ( 1874 - 1963 ) Jeanne-Marie Faugier Valerie Garnuch Jean-Paul Guerlain Lucien Ferero Rene-Maurice Gattefosse 1881 - 50 Pierre-François Guerlain ( d. 1864 ) Georges Ferrando Robert Gaudelli Jr. Aurelien Guichard Lorenzo Dante Ferro Robert Gaudelli Sr. - “Bob” ( d. ) Jean Guichard Helene Fizet Pascal Gaurin Pierre Guillaume Nathalie Feisthauer Christiane Gautror Marion Guillot Marvel Fields Clement Gavarry Yuri Gutsatz Sylvie Fischer Max Gavarry Diane Fischer John Geiger Edouard Hache Angela Flanders ~ natural Isabelle Gelle ~ natural Jean Hadorn Guillaume Flavigny Jean-Jacques Genet Randa Hammami Edouard Fléchier Constance Georges-Picat Yosh Han Anne Flipo Violet Ghamemi Yoshiro Hara Rodrigo Flores-Roux Gerald Ghislain Leon Hardy

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Stacy Hartenstein Natacha Jerome Jeanne Lanvin Lyn Harris Kazumi Jin’no Jean Laporte Albert Hauck Ambrosia Jones ~ natural Benoît Lapouza Raphael Haury Arturo Jordi-Pey Christelle Laprade V. Hausmann Alexandra Jouet René Laruelle Gregoire Hausson Gaby Joustra Jean Francois Latty Claude André Hébert ~ natural Sylvie Jourdet Christophe Laudamiel John Heffernan ~ natural Bruno Jovanovic Aerin Lauder Martin Heiddenreich Mary Pierre Julien Evelyn Lauder Pierre-Jean Hellivan Mathilde Laurent Jane Hendler Roman Kaiser Alec Lawless ~ natural Jean-Christophe Herault Serge Kalouguine Brian Lawrence Phd - Author Richard Herpin Akiko Kamei Emma Leah ~ natural Carolina Adriana Herrera Juliette Karagueuzoglou Delphine Lebeau Patty Hidalgo Vivek Karulkar Frédérique Lecoeur Rich Hippie ~ natural Veronica Kato George Lee Clito Hoedicke Howard Kennedy Gerard Lefort Daniel Hoffmann Jean Kerleo Paul Leger Wolfgang Höppner Vero Kern Paul Leget Christoph Hornetz Karyn Khoury Dominique Lelievre Sarah Horowitz ~ natural Joa Kim Vito Lenoci Jean-Francois Houbigant Desmond Knox-Leet Annick LeGuerer Cécile Hua Andrew Kobus Laurent Le Guernec Jacques Huclier Angela Kohut Laurent LeLorec Richard Hudnut 1862 - 1928 Dino Kong Maia Lernout-Frattini Marie Hugentobler Stef Korver Jean Yves Leroy ( d. 2004 ) Kai & Kalani Hughes ~ natural Zarah Kosasih Les Christoph’s Dawn Spencer Hurwitz ~ natural Alexandra Kosinski Bruno Leyssene Suk Jee Hyun Cecile Krakower Mike Licciardello Michel Hy Linda Kramer Céline Lhéritier Spencer Krenke Antoine Lie Richard Ibanez K. Krishnan Jacques Lions Florence Idier Fred Kritzer Dwight Loren Lou Ingoglia James Krivda Trudi Loren Paulette Iaropoli Vincent Kuczinski Nathalie Lorson Tejinder Kumar Pierre François Lubin Jean Jacques Francis Kurkdijan Andrea Lupo Jennifer Jambon Pierre Kuzenne Olivia Jan VOLUME III M - Z Jacques Jantzen ( 1917 - 1978 ) Sophie Labbe Catherine Jarno Sidonie Lancessuer Antoine Maidondieu Delphine Jelk Arturetto Landi Shyamala Maisondieu Nick Jennings ~ natural Ulrich Lang Christina Malcolm

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Sandrine Malin Nicolas Mirzayantz Sillon Pascal Frederic Malle Daniel Moliere John Pascale Nicolas Mamounas Montserrat Moline Fabienne Pascour Carl Mann Ellen Molner Fabienne Pastor Eurico Manzzini Ramon Monegal Subha Patel Vincent Marcello Alexandra Monet Ruhi Patil Amandine Marie Louis Monnet Elise Pearlstine ~natural Francoise Marin Pierre Montale Fabrice Pellegrin Dennis Maroney Braja Mookjerjee Roger Pellegrino Jean Martel Rene Morgenthaler William Penhaligon Marianne Martin Ayala Moriel ~ natural Fabrice Penot Jean Pierre Mary Alberto Morillas Gino Percontino Alienor Massenet Edwin T. Morris - Author Persephenie ~ natural Ruth Mastenbroek Neil Morris Olivier Pescheux Georges V. Matchabelli Michel Morsetti Armand Petitjean Norina Matchabelli Jack Mowen Julie Petrov Rosendo Mateu Wilhelm Mülhens David Phybus Christian Mathieu Judith Muller Michael Pickthall Celine Matton Constance Georges-Picot Raymond Matts Junko Nagano Lena Pierottie Daniel Maurel Yukiko Nagano Theo ten Pierik Maurice Maurin Christine Nagel Linda Pilkington Agnes Mazin Pierre Negrin Edward Pinaud Eurico Mazzini Patricia Nicolai Dorothee Piot Anne McClain Trevor Nichol Beatrice Piquet Lori McCormick Stephen Nicoll Lucien Piquet Anya McCoy - natural Jean-Charles Niel Robert Piquet Maria McElroy Stephen Nielson L.T. Piver Paul McGee Itsuo Nishino Christiane Plos Darius McLean Rachana Nossin Cosimo Policastro Alan McRitchie Pierre Nuyens Jacques Polge Keiko Mecheri ~ natural Veronique Nyberg Olivier Polge Adriana Medina William Arthur Poucher - Author Annick Menardo Egon Oelkers Miuccia Prada Domitille ( Bertier ) Michalon Keiko Ogi Dominique Preyssas Isabelle Michaud Christian Provenzano Auguste Michel Daniel Paillasseur Kristen Michele Joseph Palazzolo Henri Racine Jean-Paul Millet Lage Martine Pallix Donna Ramanauskas Tony Mills Philippe Paparella-Paris Vellidum Joe Ramsammi Alix Miral Michael Papas Francois Rance Mitchev Miroslav Paul Parquet ( 1862 - 1916 ) Gabriel Bernard Raphel Petkov Miroslav Mike Parrot Gaye Straza Rappaport

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Dave Raymond Geza Schoen William Thompson Christophe Raynaud Ralf Schwieger Sissel Tolaas Alice Rebeck Shrri Sebastian Michael Tolmasoff Marius Reboul Ayala Sender ~ natural Laura Tonatto Anthony Reichert Magali Senequie Haresh Totlani Robert Ricci Janna Sheehan Julie Towle Romano Ricci Christopher Sheldrake William Francis Truefitt Eugene Rimmel Ernest Shiftan Rafael Trujillo Achille E. Riviello Naoki Shimazaki Marcus Tschirren Francois Robert Pandurang Shinde Luca Turin Guy Robert Miya Shinma Louise Turner Henri Robert ( 1899 - 1987 ) Nobi Shioya Marie-Helene Rogeon Koichi Shiozawa Paul Vacher ( d. 1975 ) Eli Roger Maarten K.J. Shoute Christian Vacchiano Maurice Roger Mary Shroff Emilio Valeros Philippe Rogues - Phd Robert Siegel Arnold L. Van Ameringen Shere Rolo Jean Louis Sieuzac Cees Van Beizen Philippe Romano Lucas Sieuzac Henry Van Den Heuvel Giles Romey Heather Sims John Varvatos Dominique Ropion Shishir Kumar Singh Vera Vanore Vincent Roubert ( 1889 - 1972 ) William J. Slattery Felicie Vanpouille Maurice Roucel Rohanna Goodwin Smith ~ natural Yann Vasnier Jacques Rouche ( 1862 - 1957 ) Kristin Smithie Daniel Vaudd Victor Rouchou Persephenie Snyder ~ natural Rayda Vega Edmond Roudnitska ( 1905 - 96 ) Georgy Sokoloff Sreevidhya Venkatesh Michel Roudnitska Hilde Soliani Kevin Verspoor Theresa Roudnitska Maria Sovero Karoline Vieth Ineke Ruhland Veeraraghavan Srinivasan Agusti Vidal David Ruskin Marlene Stang Clio Vidal Catherine Poensin-Stefani Lino Vidal Alfred Saalfield Marina Stepanova Roxana Villa ~ natural Caroline Sabas John Stephen Lorenzo Villoresi Jean Dennis Saisse Laura Stern ~ natural Carlos Vinals Yasuzo Sakuda Jean-Pierre Subrenat Karine Vincho Marie Salamagne Shuji Suzuki Sandrine Videault Ayala Sander Daniel Visentin Jean-Marie Santantoni Yasuko Takeda Frank Voelkl Michele Saramito Yes Tanguy Marc Von Ende Iku Sasaki Andy Tauer Ben Vos Enrico Scartezzini Cary Tenenbaum Vincent Schaller Roland Tentunian Shelly Waddington ~ natural Franc Schiet Francis Thibaudeau Raj Walavalkar Monique Schlienger Sampath Thomas Amanda Walker ~ natural

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Catherine Walsh Ursula Wandel Pierre Wargnye Thierry Wasser Patrick Whelan Peter Whipps Ashley Wilberding Ron Winnegrad Arnaud Winter Richard Wirtz Brigitte Witschi

Nobuyuki Yamada Shigeru Yamazaki

Nathalie Zagigaëff Pauline Zanoni Cecile Zarokian Madame Zed Jörg Zimmermann Barbara Zoebelein Lisa Zorn

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The Questions

Article Author Year Any books you could recommend for anyone interested in learning more about fragrances?

Interview with Michael Edwards - May 1, 2001 If you could bring back one discontinued fragrance, which would it be and why? 2001 Interview with Marian Bendeth - November 1, 2001 How did you get your interest in the perfume industry? How did you get your interest in the perfume industry? What made you decide to create the Fragrance Advisor? How did you first get involved in the industry?

Do you personally smell everything in the guidebook? What made you decide to become a 'fragrance profil- er'? Do evaluators always agree with your initial classifications? What are the common mistakes made by men, with fragrances? Say, if I had developed a fragrance. How would I go about getting it listed? What stages does the fragrance How should a someone apply a cologne/EDT? What go through before it is listed? pitfalls should be avoided?

When a fragrance is discontinued, how long is it What tips could you give on choosing a fragrance? before you remove it from the book? Which male fragrances do you think have been the Anything else you would like to mention about the most important for the men's fragrance industry as a book? whole? Why?

What are your favourite fragrances (male/female) and What are your thoughts on the future of the industry? why? ( On natural ingredients being sacrificed in some fra- Which male fragrances do you think have been the grances )? most important for the men's fragrance industry as a whole? Why? If you could bring back one discontinued fragrance,

11 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL which would it be and why? remained one of the world’s great all-time fragrance classics though it was introduced in 1921. Any books you could recommend for anyone interested in learning more about fragrances? Jacques Polge also shared with us his thoughts about how dramatically our industry has changed in contem- Interview with Perfumer Christin Nagel - January porary times.

2002 We spoke of what had inspired him to become a perfumer. Christine, what is your astrological sign? When we asked Jacques Polge what he thought Please define your personality in just three words. women wanted from fragrance in today’s world

What was your career like before you became a per- As for the influence of fashion on the fragrance expe- fumer? rience

Where did your vocation for perfumery come from? Jacques Polge expressed his personal feelings about fragrance in an extremely introspective way Have you known someone in perfumery who was a role model to you? His observation triggered a discussion of the current trend in America in which the public is increasingly Have you known someone in perfumery who was a looking for fragrances with benefit beyond a pleasura- role model to you? ble and beautiful scent.

Do you have an obsession for a particular ingredient? Mr. Polge explained he’s been hearing a lot about the trend. Among your own creations, which ones are you most proud of? Finally, I asked, if he could look into his crystal ball, what does he think fragrance will be like in the future. Which fragrances convey a real emotion to you? Nathalie Lorson - Perfumer - Firmenich - Sept. 3, 2002 Besides perfumery, what other passions are you guilty of? Nathalie, tell us a little bit about yourself, about the fragrances you’ve created. How do you see perfumery in the next Millennium? What influences you as a designer? If you had to link your creative sensibility to a pictori- al style, which one would you choose? How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What are, in your opinion, their distinguishing characteris- Jacques Polge - An Interview - May, 2002 tics?

Of course, we were eager to have Jacques Polge share Do you think that being a woman influences the way his thoughts about the reasons why Chanel No 5 has you create, and if so, in what way?

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What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you table émotion? had created? And why? En dehors de la création en parfumerie, quelles sont How do you envisage the future for fragrances? Do vos passions avouables? you have any hopes for the future? Quelle est votre vision de la Parfumerie du prochain Creativity in Perfumery? - January 1 millénaire?

2003 Si votre sensibilité créative devait se rattacher à un courant pictural, quel est celui que vous choisiriez? Do marketing and market pressures restrain creativity and innovation in perfumery? The High School Classroom - Interview with IFF Perfumer Christopher Laudamiel - January What is your definition of creativity in perfumery? 2004 Are humans limited in their ability to smell certain odors or is nature limited in the production of odors? What inspired you to become a perfumer?

Do you feel free to create your fragrances? What does a perfumer do?

Interview de Fabrice Pellegrin - Parfumeur Créateur How do you use science in your job? Planète Parfumeur What educational background and skills are needed to June 3, 2003 be perfumer?

Puis-je vous demander quel est votre signe Right Under His Nose - An Interview with Jacques astrologique? Polge - January 29, 2004

Pouvez-vous définir votre personnalité en 3 mots? He will only say so if pressed. Although why he should be so hesitant is unclear. Quel a été votre parcours avant de vous consacrer à la Parfumerie? "And what might that accurate description be, Mr. Polge?", his interviewer insists, evidently eager to hear Comment votre vocation est-elle née? him articulate the magic words. "Well", Polge replies a little uneasily, "I am a nose". Avez-vous eu un Maître en Parfumerie? And therefore surely something of a difficult act for Avez-vous des matières fétiches? Mr. Polge to follow, n’est ce pas?

Parmi vos créations personnelles, quelle est celle dont So how does Mr. Polge go about creating a new fra- vous tirez le plus de fierté? grance?

Quels sont les parfums qui vous transmettent une véri- "Please forgive me if this sounds rather rude - but your

13 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL nose looks quite ordinary to me." In case you're wondering where Dove gets his grand ideas and expertise from, his infatuation with fra- Inside Global Fashion Trends - Interview Coming Up grance began in the time-honoured way: Noses with Lynn Harris - June 3, 2004 Scent & the City - Interview with Perfumer Rodrigo And how did this change the way consumers want to Flores-Roux - Sept. 2004 - Page 84 smell? Rodrigo Flores-Roux is the child of 'a Joy and an A response to a time when everyone wore Gucci Envy Aramis marriage'. This is his way of explaining how and Calvin Klein Obsession? he was destined from birth to become a perfumer.

For Miller Harris, is the main aim to represent scents Flores-Roux is not a snob when it comes to scents. in their purest concentration or to create unusual fra- When he takes me to his office at Quest International grances? (where a 1948 advertisement for the perfume Indiscret hangs behind his desk), he explains that ingredients by There's a certain amount of truth to that. themselves may smell vile can be combined with other items to produce a luscious fragrance. But is this movement for personalized scents only about introducing new scents? A nose - even a talented one - has to put up with his share of it in the workplace. When one catty colleague Tell us about the personalization process that you offer spots Flores-Roux being interviewed, he wonders to customers? aloud why he isn't the subject of a profile when he had just been selected to design Britney Spears's forth- Do you consider your services part of the quiet luxury coming perfume. trend where only the wearer knows about the personalization of their fragrance? Perfumer Even Dreams of Scents - September 8, 2004

Is it about discretion? It sometimes happens that I have to get up and walk around the garden to clear the smell from my mind. It Is it men and women using both of your services? stops me from sleeping - it's a real pain.

And why are people taking the time now? To invest in He believes perfume making is heading down the getting the right scent can take some time whereas wrong path. buying into the image of a hot fragrance doesn't... One does not create a perfume to illustrate a concept - It's a new era in shopping for fragrances. it is a matter of creating a scent, a desire, of giving pleasure," he says. "It is from creating and giving Genius With a Bottle - Roja Dove “ Professor of pleasure that the very idea of perfume comes." Perfume” - Sept. 2004 Hermes for its part shuns the very idea of market tests. So what might the ardent seeker of olfactory perfection expect to find? It seemed urgent given the current context, since we are completely losing the roots of perfume.

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Inspiration can come from any quarter - once from the fun. taste of a pineapple and ginger tart, once from the wood and pepper scent of an old oak being cut down Every 15 minutes there's a mini-movie featuring in the Midi. diaphanously dressed couples on beaches, incompre- hensible until you realise it's a perfume ad. When I started, I used about 150 products but I have reduced my palette and I am still reducing it. The 'what's new?' question has many answers. Last year, 163 new women's fragrances were launched on He carries notebooks he fills with words and sketches to the market (compared to 20 in 1980). It seems as that can powerfully revive a particular smell. though every market segment is covered, every niche filled with product. If he has a style it is one that aims for simplicity, ele- gance, lightness and generosity. The reality is that marketing companies identify posi- tionings and brief several fra grance factories who He does not believe in different scents for men and compete to fulfil the brief at the price. The product is women. picked by committee and tested against focus groups, then launched with a promotional spend of millions. Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Gives Her Favourite And how much do these fabulous essences that we are Novels - September 16 so supposed to covet actually cost to make?

Ms Tonatto, who has made fragrances for 20 years and In our business, you have to essentially reinvent your is an expert in historical perfumes, created a deep portfolio every five years'. Why would you want to vanilla scent to accompany the extract from the novel. reinvent something that was really precious and special? Ms Tonatto, who is based in Turin and whose clients include Giorgio Armani, was inspired as a youngster James Craven of Les Senteurs and Roja Dove share when she would constantly imagine the smells to the view that most modern launches are bland. accompany books she read. So what makes a truly satisfying fragrance? Scents & Suitability - Lynn Harris - December 19, 2004 It is time to go back to Lyn Harris, to see what she's Shapely bottle, celebrity name, tantalising elixir with- come up with in her Notting Hill basement among her in. It's the time of year when thoughts turn to perfume, little alu minium phials of essences. but with 163 new women's brands last year alone, how can you tell which is the one for you? Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Yosh Han - Dec. 26

I visit Lyn Harris, proprietor of Miller Harris, at her Few perfumers might proudly describe one of their shop in Mayfair. custom fragrances as "noxious and alarming," but San Francisco's Yosh Han does. Still, she's agreed to do Observer, the perfume, so I explain to her our qualities. I don't need to spell them The literary-olfactory connection may seem unusual, out here, because they are also yours: suffice to say but Han, 33, sees a natural affinity between the two. that they include high intelligence, vast erudition and

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A person may love or despise a certain scent because What were the major obstacles that you faced? of the emotional memories it triggers, like a grandmother's rose garden or a childhood home. What was the result?

After further nasal "editing" sessions, she takes out What are your goals for 2005? her droppers and Pyrex beakers and begins blending and bridging the fragrance, then decants it into square Vive La Vie - The House of Roure - March 22 flacons imported from France. We all know what smells bad to us but it must be dif- 2005 ficult to discern from the 'good' smells, what will then be a successful fragrance. Interview with Perfumer Jean Kerlo - January 21 What about when people first smell a new fragrance The day before my appointment with Jean Kerleo, I go instinctively, they try to put it in a place in time, per- to a Sephora beauty shop for a sample of Jean Patou haps it jogs their memories of a past experience or of perfume. another fragrance. Is that not an emotional response?

Kerleo has arranged to meet in Versailles at the House How then does one begin to deal with explaining the of Perfumes, or Osmotheque, next to France’s famous process? perfumery school, Isipca. What do you suspect then that you will discover and In an era when perfume is more ephemeral than ever, how in turn will that reflect back on the industry in I ask him, are there still creations that mark mile- determining the 1 out of 100 fragrances that will be the stones? enduring classic?

Is he always conscious of his olfactory sense? It is very interesting as a consumer to note that the promotion of new fragrance takes into account almost all You are wearing a Bulgari perfume, aren’t you? of the senses in that you see the product and the packaging, you hear the music associated with the adver- I would never have asked Kerleo to guess my perfume, tising automatically your attention is grabbed and per- for it is the thing everybody wants perfumers to do and haps you don't even realise that all your senses have they hate it, but I have no choice. joined together to promote smell.

As we are sipping our espressos, Kerleo talks of the The way that fragrance language borrows from other future. He is sure haute parfumerie will have a resur- areas like colour is interesting - the way that people gence. seem to be able to smell 'green'....

Caroline Sabas - Creates New Fragrance - March 15 How do you as an olfactive scientist work with the perfumer? What did you accomplish in 2004? So again even the perfumer describes his/her reactions How did you do it? anecdotally.

16 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

That would obviously have repercussions on produc- perhaps perversely want to look at it again? tivity within the company, in that if perfumer A is more acute in the morning then the bulk of his work The olfactory system is such a fascinating area and so could be done then whilst perfumer B fires in the after- little is known about it, can it develop any more and noon. what can research ultimately tell you about it?

How far have we come in terms of our understanding Strong, Man - April 24 since the first modern commercial fragrances such as Jicky or Mitsouko? Were they conducting fundamen- The Nose was Ann Gottlieb. She describes herself as tal research into the sort of questions you are address- the "director of the orchestra." Gottlieb has had her ing or is this a relatively new field? own self-named business for 23 years and before that worked in the fragrance industry in product develop- Apart from the projects you are working on now, what ment. do you see as the longterm relationship between the olfactive scientist and the perfumer? She has the kind of New York accent that always makes her sound rushed, and with her clipped, We were discussing previously the affects that certain straight-to-the-point demeanor, it is hard to imagine climates and differences in various cultures have on her dealing in metaphors and allusions. Her most the response to a particular fragrance. Taking these essential tool, her actual nose, looks rather dainty and considerations into account, how then does one create unassuming. a universal, cross-cultural fragrance one that is going to not only smell the same everywhere but have the Gottlieb has worked on fragrances for Carolina same attractive appeal? Herrera and continues to be the Nose for Unilever's Calvin Klein scents. If a product has a purely functional purpose, like a dishwashing liquid why is there so much emphasis put Try Some Play-Doh Behind Your Ears - July 14 on making it smell as nice over time as a couture fragrance? What woman who lived through the 1980's can forget the sickly-sweet, pass-me-the-insulin aroma of Does one's sense of smell deteriorate as we age like Giorgio Beverly Hills? eyesight and hearing fall foul of the years? More important, will I ever be able to erase the musky- Is this replacement a throwback to some primitive sweaty bouquet of Brut from my memory bank? function that the nose had to perform? I like the names of your perfumes? Fundamentally, why is the fragrance industry so successful: Why do people want to mask their own natu- Scent of the Young & Happy - August 1 ral smells with the products of the perfumer's workshops? What was the first image that came to your mind when you received the fragrance brief for Miss Dior Chérie? Why do we have such an immediate knee-jerk often physical reaction to something that smells offensive Did you work on different directions for Miss Dior where if something is visually upsetting, we often, Chérie before finding the definitive one? How did you

17 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL proceed? mas or smells in general, or more specifically out of an appreciation of perfumes, and if the latter, what are Did you start with the existing Miss Dior to create some of the first perfumes you remember being capti- Miss Dior Chérie? vated by?

What is the link with Miss Dior? You have rejected the use of synthetic chemicals in your own line. Was this something you set out to do What are the common elements? What makes them from the start, or was it was a decision that you came totally different? to gradually as you learned more about perfumery?

How would you describe this fragrance? It’s in the Have you had any mentors, or are there specific per- chypre category, but it seems to have opened the way fumers or perfume lines that have influenced your for a new, sweeter kind of chypre. Can you explain? style? What makes it modern? Are there particular fragrance notes or ingredients that Why will it attract young women? attract you and that you like to work with whenever possible? And are there particular notes that you don’t Who is the Miss Dior Chérie woman? care for and would rather not use in your own work?

Were you thinking about someone in particular during Which of your perfumes is your personal favorite, and the creative process? why?

Was it important for you to have a clear image of the Tell us about your new boutique and perfumery that Miss Dior Chérie woman? Is that always the case will open in late September? when you create a new fragrance? What are you passionate about besides perfume? How did you become a perfumer? An Interview with Yann Vasnier - Sept. 6 Do you think that it is more difficult for a woman to become a perfumer? Olfactory memories can be very strong. What scent takes you back into the memories of your childhood? Which fragrance do you prefer? What is your favourite ingredient to work with (natu- Would you say that a fragrance always has to create a ral and/or synthetic) and why? strong imaginary world? Do you have visual analogues for particular scents? What have you got to say about Dior? How would you characterize your signature in the fra- How would you describe the Dior olfactory world? grances you have created?

An Interview with Alexandra Balahoutis - Sept. 5 Whose work in perfumery do you admire the most?

Did this obsession come out of an appreciation of aro- Given the trend towards watery florals and fruity-flo-

18 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS rals, where do you see a room in today’s market to be eries. Her favourite materials include many notes that radical and innovative? are not conventionally beautiful.

What is your personal measure of success for your fra- As for her current goals grances? Interview with Michael Roudnitska - October 15 Do you think that your work in fragrance leads you to approach other things that concern olfactory percep- From luminous dryness of Frédéric Malle Noir Epices tions (i.e. wine and food), in an analytical way? to elegant sensuality of Parfums DelRae Amoureuse, creations of Michel Roudnitska are marked by sensi- Do you have other passions besides creating fra- tivity to form and originality of expression. grances? Their sources of inspiration are diverse, based on their What perfume do you still wish to create? creator’s extensive travels and observations unfettered by traditional views. Since you have been living in New York, have you managed to form an olfactory image of New York His ability to break through the crust of conventional City? is no doubt fostered by his other life-long passions in photography, sculpture, drawing, and video montage. Conversation with Mandy Aftel - Oct. 11 What is the most satisfying aspect of the process of Mandy Aftel’s passion for perfumery is contagious. fragrance creation, and what is the least? When she speaks about her creations, one realizes that this is an individual whose love for perfume is as Which of your fragrances did you enjoy composing immense as her knowledge of essences and perfume the most? history. It is common to hear that perfume is a luxury com- Originally from Detroit, Ms. Aftel graduated from the modity item which cannot be treated in the same way University of Michigan with degrees in English and as a work of art. What are your thoughts on this topic? Psychology. Ms. Aftel found her calling more than 10 years ago, when she took a workshop on how to make So for me the real question is: in which conditions and solid perfume. This one-day workshop led her onto the for what purpose is this creation done? path of perfumery, from which she has not swerved since. I read in one of your interviews that you do not incor- porate many vanillic notes in your compositions, When Ms. Aftel begins to speak of her creations and while jasmine is one of your favourites. Is there a of the thinking that goes into her fragrances, nothing material you have only started exploring in your work can distract her. In this world of hers, perfumery is the recently? main focus. Which natural materials do you consider to be irre- Talking about essences is one of the most interesting placeable by synthetics? topics for Ms. Aftel, whether the discussion touches upon the qualities of antique oils or the recent discov- Do you feel that your exposure to the art of perfumery

19 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL from an early age affected your perceptions of the spent a year in New York before returning to Italy to world around you? complete degrees in philosophy and religion. Subsequent travels in North Africa and the Middle What scent triggers your childhood memories? East sparked an interest in spices and other fragrant materials, and eventually he was asked to create fra- As a son of Edmond Roudnitska, how would you grances for friends, and then scented candles for describe your father’s approach to teaching you when Fendi. you decided to take up perfumery? I understand that you have a degree in philosophy, and Which of your father’s fragrances is your favourite? I am wondering what career you would have pursued if you had not become a perfumer? You speak highly of Jean-Claude Ellena’s work. Have you ever worked together? And do you think your studies in philosophy have influenced the way you work with fragrance? Do scents have visual or audible analogues for you? Do you think there is an Italian style of perfumery that What are your passions besides perfumery? is distinct from the French style?

Is it possible to speak of these passions as being out- As far as Lorenzo Villoresi is concerned, it is perhaps side of perfumery, or are they intrinsically connected possible to talk of Italian style with regard to the large with it? use of raw materials typical of the Florentine and Tuscan tradition which made "Made in Italy" famous How did the idea of spectacle olfactif "Quintessence" in the world. in 1996 come about? How do you think your own approach to perfumery Are you continuing your work on the multisensorial fits in? Or would you say that the Middle Eastern tra- shows? dition has been a more important influence on your work? I understand that you are an avid traveler. Can you please describe one of your favourite places to visit in Are there any notes or smells that you are particularly terms of its olfactory image? drawn to, and are there any that you dislike intensely?

Are you planning to add another fragrance to the You have said of your custom work: "I am merely an Parfums DelRae range? interpreter, the person who knows the alphabet of smells. I translate words into scents; I serve as a medi- Are you planning to establish a line under your own ator between their desires and the fragrance phial." I name? am curious to know if you are ever surprised by what you develop for a client, that is, do you ever create An Interview with Lorenzo Villoresi - Nov. 22 something wonderful that you would not have thought of on your own? Florentine perfumer Lorenzo Villoresi came to the fragrance business in a rather round-about way. After Or something that you find unpleasant but that suits studying psychology at the University of Florence, he the client?

20 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Which of the perfumes in your ready-made line is your paper, printer’s ink, steaming coffee, the starch of your own personal favourite, and why? shirt?

Can you tell me a few perfumes from other lines that Ideas for fragrances strike Ellena like proverbial light- you particularly admire or like to wear? ning boltsor they ferment, their recipes jotted down and left to steep in palm-sized leather notebooks. 2006 One thing he assiduously avoided was any involve- Perfumery Draws Fire over a Scent - Feb. 23 ment with the bottle’s design or packaging. “I’m afraid of marketing,” he says. “You don’t make a painting to Laurice Rahmé, has a temperament too volatile to be match a frame and the bottle is the frame.” contained in a bottle. But that, in a manner of speaking, is exactly what she has set out to do. Sophia Grojsman of IFF - March

A former Parisian, has found success with her Bond Finding the perfect scent to compliment the individual No. 9 fragrances, which until now have been named is what drives top perfumer Sophia Grojsman to create for neighborhoods in New York. some of the most admired and recognizable fragrances in the world. For her, scent enhances expression, and Her latest fragrance, the ambitiously christened "Scent she strives to create fragrances to awaken the imagi- of Peace," is a departure, in that its blend of grapefruit, nation. black currant, cedar and musk. At the time, when fragrances were created using To critics who charge that Ms. Rahmé has built her several hundred components, she started composings- success on little more than fancy wrappings (bottles cents, the main accord of which weaved only four to with racy, dancer-like curves, emblazoned with the seven ingredients. And in those few masterfully select- image of a subway token) and canny marketing gim- ed strokes she was able to conjure images and sensa- micks. tions that were previously rarely experienced.

"She does business her way or no way, and that is very Indeed, the learning and the dedication required were hard," said a retailer who declined to be named, citing significant, because Ms. Grojsman’s path towards company policy. becoming a perfumer was not straightforward. The test entailed identifying 10-12 different ingredients. I Her reputation for ferocity was reinforced three years passed the test with flying colours, but it did not mean ago by the very public rupture of her business alliance anything with Olivier Creed, the owner of Creed fragrances. We speak about her early work. “You came with dif- Ms. Rahmé commissions her scents from internation- ferent experiences to perfumery.” ally renowned perfumers, luring them with the promise of creative independence. Each creator has a style that favours some ingredients and avoids others. Master Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena - Feb. 28 If asked about the creative process, Ms. Grojsman What can you smell, right now, reading this? Glossy would say that each creation is an experience.

21 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

With the number of releases increasing rapidly every Chanel perfumes. After all, Chanel No5, the compa- year, it is difficult not to wonder what might happen to ny's greatest fragrance hit, has been popular since its the industry. Can the current oversaturation of the mar- launch in 1921. ket be sustained? Its iconic bottle is the most easily recognisable and Right now the situation is not ideal. Why should there most photographed of any fragrance flacon. be 50 fragrances that smell exactly the same? Some change will have to take place in the industry, whether Despite the agelessness of the existing Chanel fra- it might be that the number of fragrance companies grances, Polge believes that the company mustn't rest will decrease, or through the introduction of patenting on past glories. of some sort. Originally from Provence, Polge moved with his fam- Another problematic issue has to do with the shortage ily to Grasse, known as the capital of perfume, when of oil and the restrictions placed on the use of naturals he was in his early teens and soon developed an inter- through the incredible increase in their costs and the est in the traditional art of perfumery. discoveries of their allergenic potential. In this light, it is going to be difficult for perfumery to be as elaborate Although he didn't study chemistry, Polge went to uni- as it was before.” versity before serving a traditional apprenticeship in Grasse, where he learned a great deal from Jean Channeling Chanel - March 31 Carles, the creator of the classic fragrance Ma Griffe.

His name and his face may not mean anything to them, To create a version of the famously fresh, simple and but Jacques Polge has undoubtedly found his way into understated Allure which reflected the provocative the bedrooms, bathrooms and handbags of women the qualities Polge sensed in Mouglalis's husky voice, he world over. went back to the original, floral oriental fragrance.

He has earned compliments for women and indirectly For his next project, Polge is planning to delve into the brought about first dates, second dates and even mar- company's past once more. He is about to start work riage proposals. How? By creating some of the most on some more lost Chanel fragrances. seductive fragrances on the market. A Conversation With - Jacques Polge - April Polge, you see, is a perfumer, or, as he is known in the business, a "nose". And not just any nose. He is in Of course, we were eager to have Jacques Polge share charge of perfumes at Chanel, one of the world's most his thoughts about the reasons why Chanel No 5 has prestigious, successful and luxurious fashion brands. remained one of the world’s great all-time fragrance classics though it was introduced in 1921. Sitting at his vast desk, half of which is covered with little bottles and jars of cardboard testers, Polge Jacques Polge also shared with us his thoughts about agrees. "Curiously enough, the longest part of the how dramatically our industry has changed in contem- process is to find a name for the fragrance because porary times. more or less every name has been taken." We spoke of what had inspired him to become a per- Certainly, timelessness is a key characteristic of fumer.

22 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

When we asked Jacques Polge what he thought If you could think of one scent that you wished you women wanted from fragrance in today’s world, he had created, which would it be and why? was quick to respond. Oh, please tell us more! Do you personally use any of As for the influence of fashion on the fragrance expe- the above? rience. Your company name is AYREL Perfumes: Please His observation triggered a discussion of the current review for us the scents that are available to our read- trend in America in which the public is increasingly ers and how they may be purchased. looking for fragrances with benefit beyond a pleasura- ble and beautiful scent. Thank you so much for taking the time to introduce yourself and to discuss your ideas about fragrance. I Finally, we asked, if he could look into his crystal ball, certainly hope there will be a new scent coming out what does he think fragrance will be like in the future. soon...Wishing you all the best!

An Interview with René Laruelle - May 12 Perfumer Jean Michael Duriez - May 5

Proudest Moment - Jean Patou, Hermes, Cartier and Chanel are the only companies with in-house perfumers in the world. How Fragrance notes that intrigue you (tell me the first that does it feel to be in such rarefied company? come to mind as of this moment): You must have an amazing sense of smell. Does that Your compositions range from original fragrances to extend to everything? reconstructions of historical scents. The ability to bring a long forgotten aroma back to life is a very How do you train your sense of smell? exciting prospect. Could you tell us about this process? How should a woman select a fragrance?

And how have the aromas of history influenced you as Have you ever been overwhelmed by a person wearing a composer of fragrance? way too much fragrance in an elevator?

Wow, René! I wouldn't say you were crazy, but rather, How much is too much? inspired! About the incense, this is a very interesting story. Where should you apply it?

Do you continue to use incense in your home or work- When you smell several fragrances in a store, how do place? you clear your nose?

How do you feel about the current state of affairs in Your new fragrance, Sira des Indes, has a hint of the international fragrance industry? banana-milkshake aroma. Why are more fragrances today food-related? René - do you have your own theories?

23 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

The Life of a Perfumer - May 15 market he finds most disappointing, his reply would be unequivocal. "After years of fresh, fruity scents, what women now want are textured, rich perfumes with an air of mystery Ineke Perfumer San Francisco - Aguust 10 and high quality. The Education of a Classically Trained Perfumer The success of Clinique's Elixir, thirty years after it was first created, just goes to show the current mood. Asked to mention some of her mentors at ISIPCA, she said, "I studied and worked with a lot of talented per- Women want new emotions: they want a distinctive fumers along the way. scent that sends out a real message, which means beautiful floral scents, new versions of vintage clas- When asked why she chose to organize her perfumes sics, or contrastings scents made with the finest of in an alphabetical collection. ingredients - pure luxury! Ineke turned a longstanding love of literature and the "Being a perfumer is a bit philosophical in that you visual arts into what she calls a "storytelling approach have to listen out for and decode what people want. to perfume. Through intuition and feeling we learn to tell stories through scents and transform our brief into a fra- Ineke's perfumes throw a spotlight on the sensual grance. Each collaboration with a brand is totally dif- details in a moment of scent. ferent. An Interview with Ayala Sender - August 17 Portrait Of an Artist - Ralf Schwieger - July 10 What are your earlier fragrance experiences, and when Is perfume an object of art or is it a luxury commodi- did you start to gain more than a passing interest. ty? Tell us about Ayala Moriel Parfums? “Mystery.” Why is it that we smell; what do we smell; how do we react to scents? When and how did you start creating your own perfumes, were you self taught? We sit inside the café in Montmartre with the sugar white dome of the Sacré-Coeur basilica rising in the What are your favourite creations, and why? distance. Which other fragrances / houses do you admire, and I notice an interesting ring Mr. Schwieger is wearing why? and comment on its beautiful combination of various metals and its slender facets that move within their set- Why did you change the house name from Quinta tings. Essentia?

“If you created a fragrance to represent Paris, what What is the process of creating a bespoke parfum for a would you include?” client?

If Mr. Schwieger is asked what about the fragrance What do you see as the future for Ayala Moriel?

24 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

What are you wearing at the moment? are much more pleasant. She’s a fragrance designer who’s worked for Calvin Klein, Elizabeth Arden and Thank you for your time, Ayala. Christian Dior, just to name a few. She’s sort of an olfactory sociologist who can tell you which scented An Interview with New York Times Critic - Aug. 22 soaps are popular in every part of the globe. And she knows the science of scent. Firstly, we wanted to know where his interest in scent came from. Surprisingly, it all starts with Tom Cruise It’s something scientific involving molecules speeding up in the heat, right? Really? "Problem with air mass," he said. How's that? But this pungent blend of car exhaust, sewage and We started talking about the column. garbage is also competing with nicer smells. Just take a walk through Little Italy. Do you think that by having their products criticised as well as praised in the NYT will lead perfume houses But the semolina loaves and baguettes we see in the to do things differently? window are baked at another site nearby. Joe Parisi says we were actually lured inside by the warm scent We also asked Chandler his view on the fragrance of the pizza place across the street. industry today. So what are we smelling in here? On the rise of the celebrity in perfume and it technically any different to a designer putting his name to a I almost smell herbs in there? fragrance? That other dirty, however, can be found just a few feet On summer variations of scents ) Maybe I'm nuts, and away? maybe I haven't smelled enough of them, but to make a pretty categoric statement, every single one I've ever So are you saying there’s an equalizing effect here, if smelled has struck me as ( Fill In The Blank )? you have enough of these food places outside will it get rid of the smell of the garbage? On the meddling of classics - the way things don't smell like they used to? So we could see subway elevators sponsored by a fragrance company to make them smell better? Eau D’New York in the Summer - August 25. An Interview with Alexandra Balahoutis - Oct. 26 Every fragrance consists of a blend of smells. A single perfume for example may have as many as 200 differ- The question I asked was whether there were any par- ent ingredients some stronger than others. ticular smells from her childhood that had stayed with her and influenced her career? “That” is a sewer grate. Ann Gottlieb literally stopped in her tracks when she noticed the odor while walking But when did she realise that this would be her career? in Herald Square. With this in mind how does a perfumer decide which Gottlieb usually spends her days smelling things that ingredients would best fit their client's profile?

25 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

For example how do colour, music and literature sug- "Today, the pressure is huge," she admits. "You can gest suitable ingredients? become very obsessed with one fragrance for a week or two, but you can't spend too long on any one thing, With so much time and energy being poured into the because you need to be thinking about winning more design of a custom fragrance I ask Alexandra what she business." hopes people take from her fragrances? Birth of a Perfume - December 11 Knowing that Balahoutis is a well-read and extensive- ly travelled person I wonder how much of her inspira- The presentation of an essai is a vulnerable moment tion comes from the arts? for a perfumer. Finally, Gautier said, 'Good. So what do you have?' Of course I cannot finish the interview without asking the botanical perfumer herself which essences would Interview - Alain Boucheron - Dec. 31. feature in a fragrance perfectly engineered to fit her character? Alain Boucheron talked to us about how consumer attitudes have changed since 1988. What the Nose Knows - Nov. 5 Of course, we had to ask Alain what role fragrance "Fragrance is like a ribbon going through the past, plays in his life. present and future." He was very happy to learn about our program at the Sitting at her desk in Paris, surrounded by phials of Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. yellow liquids and photos of her three children, Daniela Andrier is telling me how, as a child growing Interview - Massimo Ferragamo - Dec. 31 up in Germany, she used to spend hours in the bathroom mixing her mother's perfumes to form new ones. We met in his elegant offices in New York this Spring to discuss Ferragamo's first fragrance, Salavatore As recently as a decade ago, perfumery was an almost Ferragamo Pour Femme and to preview the company's exclusively male profession. upcoming introduction of Salvatore Ferragamo Pour Homme. Secrets of the trade were handed down from father to son over generations. Lore had it that men have better When we asked Mr. Ferragamo if he was enjoying noses because a woman's sense of smell was distorted being part of the fragrance world, his response was by her menstrual cycle. immediate and enthusiastic, "Yes!

When designers want to launch a perfume, they tender In discussing the proliferation of fragrances in recent to Givaudan and its three main rivals. years.

Their perfumers compete to fulfil the brief, working We laughed together about women's insatiable out perfume "formulas" at their laptops in corporate- appetite for shoes and fragrances. looking offices, which are then mixed in labs by robots, before being refined, refined and refined again. We asked about the clearness, the clarity of the fragrance itself. We wondered if the absence of color was

26 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS a conscious choice. today?

As for fragrance being considered one of Ferragamo's What is the first step in choosing a signature scent? fashion accessories, Mr. Ferragamo stressed Should they pick just one or use several scents We asked Mr. Ferragamo where he looks for inspira- depending on their moods? tion. Can you talk about how scent triggers certain emo- Coming back to the present, we asked Mr. Ferragamo tions and feelings in our brains? why he thinks designer fragrances are so popular. Why do fragrances smell different on different people Then, he spoke about what makes a fragrance classic. and how can someone feel comfortable trying something new? Looking to the future and the role of fragrance - especially for people who will be working from home, we What should your scent say about you? agreed it will require something really different. How do you wear perfume during the winter season? Interview - Donna Karan - Dec. 31 Which materials and ingredients tend to lend themselves to this season? Donna is quick to reveal that she always relates fragrance to fashion. "The common denominator," she When applying fragrance, is it better to spritz it all explained, "is honesty and integrity." over you, or dab just at your pulse points?

Interview - Paco Rabanne - Dec. 31 Lastly, how can you tell when you’ve found the right fragrance? What Are Your Thoughts About The Future? Conversations: Laurice Rahme - Feb 3. What Do You See In The Future For Women? Good Morning, Lauric e - Bonjour! Ca va? What Inspired You To Create A Fragrance? Ca va bien, merci! What would you like to talk about What Do You Believe Is The Future Of Fragrance? today?

2007 Excellent, tell me more about "Bonding" at Valentines Day! Lol! The Art of Perfume - Jan. 2007 That would be the new West Side, yes? I asked Francois what the L’Artisan philosophy was and he had this to say? Lol! Where did you get the idea for West Side?

What is the L’Artisan customer like? Ok, but let's go a step further - why the West Side for this latest launch as opposed to any other locale? What are your views on the fragrance industry of

27 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

I see. Laurice, what are you wearing right now? "ready"?

AHHHHH! Let's talk a little about this! When is the Ohhhh, I'm gonna be pushy about this one! I'm both a launch date? painter and a composer, I think this is why fragrance appeals to me on so many different levels...I always Any ideas about the bottle - Bond has become leg- have difficulty saying something is "finished". Have endary for the beautiful bottles, especially most you experienced this with your perfumes? recently with the Bleecker Street, Fire Island, Chinatown bottles, etc. I see! So speaking of music and perfection, back to West Side! Inevitably, customers will on some level Will all new Bond scents be decorated bottles? associate the name with the legendary musical by Bernstein and Sondheim. I put it on and started singing So let me ask you this, Laurice: To what extent do you "tonight, tonight, I'll dah dah dah dah dah...." listen to your own inner voice about "the final product" and to what extent do you feel you need to honor Yes, and that's why I love the bottle for West Side! the customer? While Bleecker's bottle is like stunning abstract art, Great response. So, right now, you are wearing Bryant West Side makes me think of the new Jazz at Lincoln Park, yes? Center...The rose, the amber - the warmth of the composition is beautiful. Ok, not sure if you've seen it, but Sacre Nobi (New Yorker) of S-perfumes started a project last year enti- Do you know what surprised me most? tled "Made by Blog". He chose two bloggers and two perfumers to create each blogger’s "holy grail" per- At Sniffa, as everyone was putting on the scent and fume. Readers now have an understanding of what it offering their wrists for sniffing, I loved how differ- takes to make a great perfume, how many prototypes, ently the scent projected on each wearer. Some offered etc. So you mentioned last time we spoke that you had more of the floral aspect, while others offered rich been wearing “one of the versions” of Bryant amber tones... Park...How many versions have there been so far? So to this end, how do you consider how your fra- Laurent is one of my favorite perfumers and I was so grances develop on other people when making the thrilled to receive a beauitful bottle of Chelsea final decisions about a new scent? Flowers during the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball 2006 breakfast. Thank you, Laurice. I want readers to real- When your perfumers are masters such as Michel or ize that even with a name like Chelsea Flowers, the Maurice, or Laurent, I believe that you can trust them, scent is green and fresh and men should not shy away and this is partly what makes many Bond scents so from trying it! dear to my heart.

That would be an absolute gift to not just me, but to Well, my heart is always in New York, always has other Sniffapalooza participants as well! So 25 ver- been, always will be. Though I was born in Florida, sions of Bryant Park? my family is all from New York and so each time I come to Manhattan, it feels like a homecoming. I think Laurice, how do you know when a perfume is many people feel this way about New York, even if

28 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS they are not natives. Already working on Spanish Haarlem? Geeeessh! Laurice, we must have been friends in a past life, yes? Now that I have magnificent scented memories, specifically with the evocative Bond scents, I feel like So, to conclude for today, I want to turn the discussion I have my own personal scents of New York always for a moment to the amazing staff at Bond. with me, no matter where I go. Moreover, it seems that each time I visit New York, I spend at least one day I love it! The energy, the warmth, the excitement....the wearing a Bond scent, and with all the adventures I international faces! Well done! I was most impressed! have during my visits a lot of strong scented associa- I’ve spent quite a bit of time now with your staff. tions have been formed. Scented Memories - Feb. 18 So let's talk for a moment about what Bond has in store for 2007. Is it possible to bottle time in hope of capturing the memory of a very special person and the poignant That sounds amazing! I hope the international moments of her life? PerfumeCritic team can assist you in getting the word out! Any idea what we might expect Brooklyn to smell An Interview with Christopher Chong - April 2 like? Matzoh Balls? Russian Tea? Cannoli? First, may I ask you how you became involved with Oh wow! How exciting! Coney Island is about to have fragrances? Or again, where does this love of fra- a major facelift, right? It’s about time that glorious grances of yours spring from? playground returned to its original grandeur. Coney is So New York! When one talks about the creation of perfumes today, a lot of focus is put on perfumers. A debate has arisen My mind is already reeling with colors and notes that recently around the question of authorship in per- I might find in a bottle of Coney Island - playful is my fumery with, as you know, different conclusions in main image! Holland and France. Yet at the same time it is quite obvious that perfumery appears more and more to be It seems that Bond launches a scent every summer - is the result of sophisticated teamwork akin to the level this true? Can we expect summer releases to be a tra- of collective effort found in the making of a movie, dition? from designing the perfume, to composing it, blending it, to packaging it and marketing it etc. What is exact- That's great. Bond has steadily been growing over ly the role of an artistic director in that enterprise, at these past few years. At what point do you say, "Ok, least in the way that you see it? we're done, enough is enough?" Where is all this going? The Royal family of Oman seems to be very close to Amouage especially since they are the ones who Will certain scents be retired to make room for new established the house in 1983. How much input do you scents? And at what point do we see offshoots of receive from them? Are they the ones who come up neighborhoods such as Spanish Haarlem of with the original briefs? Williamsburg? It is fascinating to see that Amouage did not start just Seems like we're thinking along the same lines! as a business venture but also seems to have been

29 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL structured to correspond to the royal family's needs of establish more of a masculine and feminine character? gift-giving and hospitality. Does this orientation lend a It seems that the Arabian heritage in this case works particular character to your perfume house? towards the creation of flamboyant masculine fragrances. Regarding the latest Amouage releases, Reflection Men and Women, how did the back and forth with I have noticed that the Amo-uage fragrances have a Maurice Roucel and Lucas Sieuzac take place? What soothing, calming effect. Has this characteristic been were your sources of inspiration? brought to your attention before? Is it due to the high proportion of natural ingredients that you use? Has sil- The perfume market seems very much driven by ver frankincense any particular properties? trends. There are certain conflicting notions about whether perfumery ought to be more of an art-for- What is your next project? You mentioned that you art's-sake phenomenon, versus being unabashedly a were going to create oil-based perfumes? fashion phenomenon. Luxury, it seems to me, is more about aiming at conveying an image of timelessness; Finally, a little ritual. Apart from the Amouage per- the Amouage perfumes all seem to bear a classic, fumes, what are the 10 perfumes that you think every- atemporal quality. What kind of balance do you try to one should experience at least once in their lifetimes? achieve? Exposing the Perfumer - April 3 In what ways has Guy Robert left his mark and continues to leave his mark on Amouage? As you see it, what are the advantages of heightening traditionally trained perfumers’ profile in the industry It is striking to see how the discourse around perfume- and media? wearing in the Middle East puts emphasis on the inner life. Amouage is no exception. Why do you think there In your educated opinion, what are the makings of a is this propensity to evoke the moral life? What does genuine “perfumer”? "Reflection" mean by the way here exactly? What are the roots of the fragrance industry’s secrecy? Amouage with its Arabian heritage is also very much a cross-cultural product of Western and Middle- Coinciding with your article, Givaudan perfume Eastern influences. How do you take these influences school head Jean Guichard has allowed the partial into account in your work? Do you have perfumes that publication of Jean Carles’ olfactive training charts. sell more in the Middle East and others more in the What is their historical significance and why is it West? important that they be displayed to the wider fragrance industry? When experiencing the different perfumes in your line, one cannot but be struck by the beauty of the What, if anything, do you make of the natural vs. syn- ingredients and compositions, their luxuriance and thetic debates taking place among traditional and self- lushness. So much so that conventional coded gender trained “perfumers”? What is the significance of those lines in perfumery start feeling blurrier. Gold Men is conversations? as rich as Gold Women, if not even more so. How do you determine these differences? What accords or ingredients or proportions of ingredients allow you to

30 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - The Questions

Beauty Box: Lynn Harris, Perfumer - April 15 and its History?

What's your favourite beauty product? As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration and what keeps it fresh and interesting? Do you have a beauty secret? What are you most excited about sharing with the What are your best and worst features? Sniffapalooza guests at this fall's event?

What has been your biggest beauty disaster? What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the range and what about them do you Would you ever consider having cosmetic surgery? think makes them register to so many people?

What's in your bathroom cabinet? What can our guests look forward to in the New Product/Release department? Shave or wax? Neil Morris - The Proust of Perfume - May 22 Would you leave chipped nail varnish on or remove it right away? Neil, your approach to fragrance reminds me of the great author Proust’s approach to literature. Explain to Do you prefer a real or bottled tan? our readers your relationship with fragrance.

What is your signature fragrance? You have a custom clientele in Boston and fragrances were created for individuals only. When was the retail How would you recommend going about buying a business launched? new perfume? What are your two newest scents? And of course, what Are you brand-loyal? are the “stories” that influence you to create them.

What's the best beauty treatment you've had? Although your focus is on growing your retail business, I know our readers would love to learn a little How did you learn to put on your make-up? about your custom clientele business. Ok, pretend, I am a new customer and I want you to create a fra- What inspires you when creating perfumes? grance just for me. Then what?

Coming Up Smelling Roses - May 16 BTW, I have trouble wearing florals, you are right. They smell too strong on me. Neil, any DO’S and What do you remember your mother smelling like don’ts of wearing fragrance in summer? when you were a child? Vanilla cake? Laundry pow- der? Perfume? David, you have been so quiet, what is the biggest challenge in growing the Neil Morris Fragrance retail Perfumer Neil Morris Interview - May 17 business?

Can you tell us briefly about yourself, your perfumes,

31 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Conversation - Serena Ava Franco - June 4 They are edgy in some way...

Are you up to answering some questions? It certainly was meant as a compliment!! How long does it usually take you to create a scent, and how do To jump right in, how did you first get into making you know when a scent is done? perfume? That's a lot of work. Which scent gave you the most How long have you been mixing your own perfumes trouble in terms of perfecting the scent? in this way? Yet it is, I think, one of your masterpieces. It is one of How did you come to the decision to open your own my favorite interpretations of "loukhoum". business? I only speak the truth. J What are your strengths and I can imagine, though, that opening your own business weaknesses, do you think, as a perfumer? must have been difficult in many ways. What did you have the most problem with and how did you over- I know from your blog that you’re also interested in come it? astrology. Can you tell me your sun, moon, and ascendant sign? (Your sun sign is Aries, yes?) I can't believe you have no helpers! How do you keep your turnaround time so fast? My sun moon and ascendant are Taurus, Scorpio, and Gemini. I really admire your work ethic! I have no idea. My birthday is on the 26th I've read on your site that you draw your inspiration from pop culture. Can you be more specific? I think so. With the Sun in an opposite sign as the moon, that makes a full moon But more about you... Do you think the signs describe you well? What are some of your favorite notes in perfume? And what are your least favorite? In what other ways are you an Aries?

What is your personal favorite from your line, and I wish I could see you in real life! where did you draw the inspiration for that scent? That would be fun to see! ...What are some favorite I was wondering about that! My personal favorite is scents from other houses? Angel Face. Where did you get the inspiration for that scent? You have great taste! Speaking of taste, what is your taste in clothes? How do you usually dress? It really does smell like that...Show me a glimpse of your process. How do you decide on your top, heart, Okay, one last question. What’s in the future for Ava and bottom notes for a scent? Luxe?

You've captured the essence of your scents perfectly.

32 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - The Questions

That's wonderful. I know many ask about a brick-and- Don't let Anna Wintour hear you say that...unless she mortar store in the San Diego area. wants me to do the blogging! But hey, what effect do you think bloggers have had on your own fragrances Well, thank you, Serena. It's been a lot of fun chatting or your own creative vision? with you! Yeah! You’d have a lot of disappointed readers. Conversations: Andy Tauer - June 20, 2007 So this is an interesting phenomenon readers influenc- Hey Andy, how ya doin? ing the creation of a fragrance.

I'm great, thanks. What are you up to? You’re faced with a wish from the community about an idea which you don’t necessarily agree with. And I can't wait to try it. So this is your 3rd fragrance for Tauer Perfumes; how did you get started? So, I see that you’ve been busy with interviews recently. What have you been learning about yourself or It does seem an odd place to start... your creative process as a result of these interviews?

Ah-hah! And what else have you learned?

And I really love the richness of the notes used in Hmmm. You know, some composers say that they Maroc. It reminds me of a Middle Eastern attar, but don’t want to listen to other people’s music so as not with deeper tones and a much more layered approach. to taint their mode of expression or approach…how about a perfumer? So how were sales when you first put Maroc in the store? I mean, do you worry about the comments and sug- gestions? What changed things? True. I listened to my readers when re-designing my Isn’t it amazing how the internet and more specifical- newer site ly, blogs, can support sales of fragrance? I was surprised to see comments on similar topics, but It’s true. I get samples from fragrance companies and with completely opposite perspectives. Still, it’s been they send me emails asking if my reviews will be pos- fun taking this creative journey. Of course it does at itive. In a couple of instances, when the reviews times feel like a job. Do you have a fear that this busi- weren’t glittering, the fragrance companies just ness could get too big for you, that you may in fact stopped communicating with me. turn into a larger company?

Yeah, I know that Chandler Burr has an upcoming arti- Tell me about it. A number of perfumers have been cle about just what the current definition of niche is. I bemoaning the growing difficulty of obtaining the think he’s writing it for the New York Times…God, I quality ingredients they need to fulfill their own cre- would love to write for the Times…Hey if any of you ative visions. On a different note though, let’s look at Times folk are reading, here I am! ( sorry for that a company like Jo Malone bought out by Estee Lauder shameless plug, Andy ). what do you think of this?

33 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Andy, your creations are not just special, they are When did you establish your business ROUGE spectacular. Do you think you are influenced by CURACAO and why this name in particular? scents you already know and love? Could you explain to us what you do as a fragrance Scents from those very houses that are creating mass- consultant? On what perfumes have you worked? market fragrance? What were some of your best experiences?

What draws you to other people’s scents? The images? What do you make of the increased number of launch- The bottles? The concepts? es that now seem ready to invade the market not even on a yearly basis, but on a quarterly basis? It seems You’re braver than I am. I usually just have to “play” that more perfumes are "improvised" over the course at the perfume counter…though recently I feel more of a 3-month period, perfumes that were not even like a trainer. It’s amazing the things that the salespeo- announced in advance but seem to correspond to the ple don’t know. But that could be another conversation perceived need to respond to a very competitive mar- entirely. What do you look for when choosing a per- ket. What is the shortest period of time in which you fume for personal use? know that a marketed perfume was created?

Ok, so if you could revive a long lost scent and bring Do you think that most perfumers think of their pro- back the original composition. fession as an art or do they think more commonly or realistically perhaps of it as a craft with more limited My feelings about Jicky… well…I can understand the goals? creative vision behind it, and I do actually wear it from time to time, but I prefer my lavender and civet in a lit- Do you think that there is a crisis in perfumery today? tle mouchoir…Mouchoir de Monsieur is a wonder and If not, what are the optimistic signs of well-being? If easier to wear than Jicky in my opinion…perhaps even yes, what do you think should be done to overcome the for a woman. crisis?

Do you ever worry about including odd notes? Do you have any favorite perfumers?

So Andy, bottom line (you know I love to use that What is your position on authorship in perfumery? phrase), what makes a great perfume…well, great. Should or can perfumes be copyrighted?

Interview with Nicolas Olczyk - July 6 What are the differences that you see between French and American tastes for perfumes, if any? Are these How did you become interested in perfumes and when taken into account for the creations of different formu- did you know it was going to become your profession? lations for the "same perfumes" that will be sold in dif- Was there an epiphany, an aha moment or was it more ferent markets? progressive? What interesting trends do you see emerge in per- How did you become interested in perfumes and when fumery today? What future developments do you pre- did you know it was going to become your profession? dict are going to take place? Was there an epiphany, an aha moment or was it more progressive? What are the launches you are looking forward to?

34 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

And now for our little ritual: what are the 10 perfumes trip to the orient: tell me about the creation of Alamut you think that people ought to experience at least once - what was that journey like? in their lifetime? A shelter, a “place of the flow ers” as the word Conversations: Lorenzo Villoresi - July 11 Gulistan suggests, where you can dream…?

Good morning, Dr. Villoresi. Definitely your words correspond to a passion for excellence, the link with the tradition and the Italian First of all, I congratulate you for having won the pres- taste for perfumery, in particular its Florentine roots - tigious award “François Coty 2006”. Previous editions this has brought you to other cultural projects related winners (among which I remember were Jacques to the world of perfumery. For example, the commit- Cavalier, Maurice Roucel, Francis Kurkdjian, and ment you made, since several years ago, participating other renowned international noses) are certainly in Italy’s Pitti Immagine, an event that brings together linked by close collaborations with the Majors of the creative minds of all sorts, in the making of perfume industry. This award is a great acknowledge- “Fragranze ”, a celebration of olfaction with numerous ment to your art and your commitment and of course a famous panelists and guest speakers (such as Guy great pride for the artistic perfumery and the Italian Robert, Chandler Burr, etc.). The event, in its fourth tradition: there must be something new in the air? year, has seen 102 brands participating and is becoming more and more one of the most important Speaking of scented visions, your Florentine office European references for arts and culture related to the located at Via de’ Bardi is famous in the general imag- artistic perfumery. Certainly we’d like to be invited to ination of people passionate about scents as a cross- participate in the next event. As for the past events, road of famous people from show biz, international could you make tell us about some of your impres- politicians, intellectuals, and fellow perfumers. With sions? regard to this, you describe yourself as a medium, a simple interpreter of the desires, even the intimate This cultural project features you also at the front line ones, of the customer. Here the curiosity teases us in creating a Perfume’s Art Academy based in about how many anecdotes you could tell! Has your Florence As an Italian, I must confess I’m proud and approach to a custom tailored perfume always been to also very curious about it… Can you tell us more act as a medium, or is it simply a result of experience? about this? Have you always been such an able interpreter of different visions for personalized scents? It’s interesting this all-round approach; hence not only education so but also creation. Good! I understand, but in the beginning there must be found a meeting point, a common ground between you and Certainly this is an ambitious project that requires lots the customer, mustn’t there? of energy. We wish you good luck! I can figure out that, taking care of so many projects going on, you In addition to custom tailored perfumery, you dedicat- have very little free time left to think about the long- ed yourself also to your own perfume line, among term future. Nevertheless, would you comment about which I like to remember the ancestors Donna and your future personal projects? Uomo, but also other successes like Musk, Teint de neige and Yerbamate. The last born, that has certainly Well, I can say nothing more but to wish you contin- been a lucky charm to you, Alamut, is inspired by a ued enthusiasm and passion. I eagerly await your new

35 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL ventures and look forward to trying these new “scent- What advice would you give to someone with an aspi- ed visions”. ration and creative passion for perfume or music?

What’s In a Summer Scent - July 24 Fabrice Penot of Le Labo - July 30

What's in a summer scent? How did it come about that Kirsten Dunst wore this perfume for her role as Marie-Antoinette in the Sofia Her all-time classic perfume: Coppola's movie?

Her fave spice: nutmeg Did you create the perfume with some historical spec- ifications in mind? (I am thinking of the presence of Her fave herb: lemongrass the cologne accord and perhaps the tuberose note that Marie-Antoinette is said to have loved.) Wishes she'd created: L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci One can find the tuberose to be quite present in the fra- What's your idea of a summer scent? grance in the end; why however this preference for a "hidden" tuberose that makes a noted delayed Is cologne still cool or has it been overtaken by fresh entrance? eaux de toilette? Who is the perfumer that created Tubéreuse 40 and What ingredients do summer perfumes contain? how did the perfume project and the perfumer meet or establish connection (do you work with briefs)? What's in this summer in the world of perfume? Thank you very much. The Interpreter of Accords - July 27 Interview with a Perfumer - August 6 Are there any new scents that you admire? Did you have formal training? Can you tell us about your beginnings with scent? What's an average day? How did you intially get into the business? Conversations: Sharon Bolton - August 7 Are you a perfumer? I'm not too bad, thanks. How about you? When you are composing a piece of music, do you use scent as a tool for inspiration? Oh, nice Smile … business-related?

Do you think there is a correlation between fragrance Oh very cool, we may have to talk about that a bit later classifications and genres of music? How do you per- (if it's not top secret! LOL). ceive their similarities - Could you give us some examples of what a fragrance classification would So, shall we get started with some questions? sound like if it were a piece of music? So am I. Firstly, how did you come up with the idea of

36 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS making your own scents? Oh yeah, Santa Barbara would have that feel to it as well Smile Very interesting! Just out of curiosity, what was the discontinued fragrance that you used to wear? Definitely it's winter here in Australia at the moment…so I've purposely been wearing both Soul & Yep...heard of them (they have some yummy smelling Luv the past couple of weeks, so it takes my mind off stuff!! the fact that it's cold here.

So you're originally from Canada! What part? They are, thank you Smile

Oh nice I'd love to go to Canada one day!! I have a lot Why did you decide to make your scents as perfume of friends from college there. oils, rather than Eau de Parfum or Parfum? Was it because of the reactions you had to EDPs? Definitely!! Lol. So, when did you start Sharon Bolton Scents? And how did that come about? Because, I read I can imagine… but the perfume oils are great, on your site that you weren't always in the fragrance because (at least on me) they last so much longer than industry. traditional EDPs and parfums

Really interesting. On your site, you liken scents to Are there any stories behind the names of your scents, music, saying they “flow in a tantalizing rhythm evok- Luv, Soul & Truth? ing fond memories and stirring emotions”. As a musi- cian, I found this to be absolutely true!!! I love that Oh that is very cool!! And it's so true that you can't description!! Is music something you enjoy a lot of? live without those 3 elements in our lives.

I listen to a whole lot of different genres...but I love Sounds like a good plan to me. As well as the perfume my rock (especially classic rock!!) How about you? oils, you also have other products in each of the 3 scents. Can you tell us a bit about them? Very cool Jazz is great..and Hip-Hop's good as well. My sister's a bit Hip-Hop/Rap fan, so I'm always hear- And, I also read on your website that your products ing that coming out of her stereo! have no dyes or pigments added, are cruelty free and the packaging is 100% recyclable. I think that’s great! Getting back to your company...what was the first product you introduced, and what was the inspiration Are you a very hands-on boss? I know you mentioned behind it? that you drove to LA to see the progress of your new candles…. do you help make your other products? Gardenias are gorgeous... and you can really smell How many people have you got on your team to help them in Luv. Both Luv & Soul are so tropical...they're you out? really beautiful scents! I've never been to Hawaii, but I can imagine it'd smell like your scents, for sure! I Oh nice, so it's a very intimate (is that the right word?) have been to Bali though, and I got a bit of déjà vu environment to work in. when I tried both Luv & Soul...made me want to be back there in the tropics! Now, you don’t just sell these gorgeous scented products either you sell sarongs and jewellery! Can you tell

37 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL us a bit about them? PerfumeCritic, so that's good to know.

They are beautiful I've been asking my parents (nice- Finally (because I think we're running out of time), ly, of course), if they can buy me one for my birthday what’s next for Sharon Bolton Scents? Are there any next month!!! I haven't had a reply yet…but you secrets you’re willing to share with us at never know. PerfumeCritic? lol

Your scents have been reviewed by a few different Well...thanks so much for taking some time out of websites and publications, including StyleBakery.com your busy schedule to chat with me!! It was so much (in their “Designers on the Rise” section), fun, and I learned a lot about Sharon Bolton Scents, BlogforBeauty.com… what do you think of the and the fabulous lady behind the company. reviews you’ve been given? Haha...thanks! You know, I've never thought about J Marlen recently reviewed Truth on PerfumeCritic - journalism as a career... plus, it would mean I'd have to fantastic review! And I hope to review both Soul & go to school again (noooooooooooo!! lol). Luv very soon… Thanks again Sharon - catch up with you soon. No problem! Now...you’ve even got a celebrity fan, in Soul queen Patti LaBelle!! How did you find that out? Conversations with Sarah Horowitz -Thran - Sept. 1

Wow!! That's fantastic!! A great story too Smile Hi, Sarah. Thanks again for agreeing to chat. I was looking at the bio on your website and saw that you She seems like a nice lady, from what I've read about started your career working part-time at a Boston per- her on the net she's got a great heart (and a fantastic fumery while you were studying theatre at voice too!!). EmersonCollege. Was this when your love for fragrance began to develop, or did you always feel you Your scents are available in selected boutiques and had a special connection to it? stores in California, plus Hawaii, Michigan & Pennsylvania, as well as a couple of online stores (all It makes sense that you were a theatre major if you info can be found on your website www.sharonbolton- love all things sensual. Also, It sounds like you have a scents.com ) do you have any plans on expanding your natural curiosity about people. I can't imagine anyone sales to include stores in other US states, and possibly working at that particular perfumery if they did not. internationally? What you do sounds almost like aromatherapy, or, maybe like short-term aromatherapy. Do you think of And, speaking for Australia, we'd love to have your yourself as an aromatherapist? products sold here!! You take your clients what you call The Fragrance And, of course, all of your products are available on Journey to bring out that "profound emotional your website can they be purchased by non-US resi- response." It sounds like this process evolved over dents? time. I looked at the online Fragrance Journey. How different is it from one that you take a client on per- Fantastic - because we have a few different countries sonally? Are the questions the same, more involved, represented by the visitors (and even writers) on etc.?

38 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Say I had an appointment with you for a Fragrance What are your influences as a designer? Journey. What could I expect? How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What How did you come up with the idea of scent layering, are, in your opinion, their characteristic features? or "wardrobing?" Do you consider yourself to be a pioneer when it comes to this? What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you had created? And why? The idea of layering scents is something that’s never really appealed to me. I find it too challenging. I guess How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fra- I’m afraid of making a mistake and smelling bad! grance brands?

What scents do you, yourself, like to combine? Do you have a wish for the future?

Are drawn more drawn to particular types of scents? An Interview with Ineke Ruhland - October 3 (Florals, gourmands, citrus…? Had you made any commercial perfumes prior to your Do you think there's a particular reason why you've Ineke fragrances? been craving green notes lately, or is it "just because?" Which other perfumers do you admire? Yes, it makes sense. It's like you don't need a fragrance to make you feel sexy at this point in your life. What happens when you get to Z and how long is that expected to take? I really love the Joy Comes From Within sample you sent! I know you said it’s all about a California. Do you feel that the internet is becoming a way for independent perfumers to market themselves effec- Which of your perfumes is your personal favorite and tively? why? What inspires you? So what’s next for you? What are your future plans for Creative Scentualization? Apart from D - Z, what are your future plans for the Ineke brand? What's the book you're writing about? Sweet Smell of Success - Jacques Polge - Oct. 4 Sounds very interesting. I hope I get to read it one day! I'd love to hear about your other projects as you're able They say a bottle of Chanel No. 5 is sold every thirty to talk about them. Also…let me know when you're seconds. What's the key to such success? making any appearances in NYC again so I can stop by and say hello! Thanks again and enjoy your week! But lighter perfumes are becoming popular. Isn't that the worldwide trend? Marie Salamagne - An Interview - Sept. 5 Is there a right way to use perfume? Marie, tell us a little bit about yourself, about the fragrances you’ve created. Are some perfumes particularly suited for certain peo-

39 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL ple while others are not? How interactive is the dinner for a guest? What kinds of things are asked of someone in attendance? Need You can distinguish an ingredient among thousands of they be well-versed in fragrance before they attend? others just by very slight differences. What's the secret of doing that? What are your future plans for the Rosewood Scent Dinners? Can we expect a regular series of them? Which perfume would you recommend for a woman in her mid-twenties who is falling in love? The Man Behind the Hat - Romano Ricci - Oct. 8

Interview with Chandler Burr - Oct. 4 My invitation from Canada's high-end retail fashion and beauty store Holt Renfrew arrived via email. How did the idea for the scent dinners first come Would I like to meet Romano Ricci, the force behind about? Had you been thinking about it for a while or 'Juliette has a gun’? was it more of an idea that you acted on impulsively? I initially wondered who Juliette was and what exact- What made you choose the Rosewood chain of hotels? ly did she have in mind with that gun? Did you approach them or did they approach you? I wonder if he is Romeo? and if he has a muse? If not, To plan for this event, where did you start - obviously could he describe this woman to me? with the fragrances themselves, yes? Conversations: Laurie Erickson - Oct. 9 What was the process of choosing the particular fragrances that corresponded to the courses like? Once When did you become interested in perfume and what the fragrance was chosen, did you work with chef was the first perfume you ever wore? Jimmy Sakatos closely to conceive the course or did you let him have complete control over the food part So did Sonoma Scent Studio get started due to your of the event? love of flowers and the desire to preserve their fragrance - can you tell us the story of what led you to What kind of work did you have to do to prepare for start your own perfumery? the dinner - research, etc.? How do you feel about using natural versus synthetics What did you find was the hardest thing about the in perfume? entire process? Is there really a difference between using organics and Did you only use gourmand fragrances? Would you scents created in a laboratory? ever choose a Chypre or a White Floral? I agree with you - I find that many 100% organic fra- What was the most surprising thing that has happened grances don't last on my skin or in the bottle, and they during one of your scent dinners? turn fairly quickly.

As a guest of your scent dinner, what should I know Can you explain the difference between an Absolute before attending? and an Essential oil for our readers?

40 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

So perfumery is both an art and a science! grance? (You can only choose one!)

Do you distill your own essences (tinctures), and could As a self-taught perfumer, what one piece of advice you briefly explain the process for our readers? would you give to a student of perfume who wants to create their own fragrances? It sounds absolutely fascinating, which brings me to my next question: what is the strangest/most unusual Do you create bespoke (custom private blends) for thing you've ever tried to distill? I recall a natural per- your clients? fumer telling me she once tinctured the hair of a billy goat, and it gave me a good laugh, as billy goats are I would imagine there's so much work involved, but quite smelly animals! also tremendous satisfaction. There is something so special about having a fragrance made that is only cre- It sounds beautiful. Is Sonoma Scent Studio open for ated for you - that nobody else has! It’s very personal. tours by appointment and do you see yourself conducting a perfume workshop for those who'd like to Interview With a Perfumer: Jean Jacques - Oct. 19 learn more? Asked on the future of fragrance notes for the upcom- What distinguishes Sonoma Scent Studio from other ing seasons. independent perfumeries? What is your most cherished fragrant memory? In my opinion, your Fireside perfume is one of the best interpretations of wood smoke and a blazing fire- What's your favourite spice? place I have ever smelled. It's an authentic, incredible smelling perfume that somehow smells more complete Your favourite colour? than other fragrances that try to capture wood smoke and fire, like Annick Goutal Eau de Fier and John What music to prefer to listen to? Galliano's room spray. Sonoma Scent Studio Fireside is a beauty. Do you think you'll make a matching Your favourite season? scented candle for Fireside in the future? Favourite time of the day? Which fragrance is your best seller and which one is your personal favorite? Which country do you like best?

I'm curious; do fragrances have visual images and And what city, if at all? sounds for you when you create a new one? For example, when I wear Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, I 'see' Do you have an everyday indulgence? it as an indigo perfume, and the music I associate with it is Beethoven's Moonlight Sonata. What are your Which alcoholic beverage do you prefer? thoughts on this? And your favourite dish? Do you have a favorite theme like woods/incense /fruits/florals?Whom would you consider the greatest Do you have an idol, someone you admire a lot? master perfumer, and what is your Holy Grail fra-

41 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Who wouldn't ask a perfumer what perfume he hasn't Is it possible to re-launch those 'Napoleonic' colognes created himself he admires a lot...So which is it? from 18-19 centuries and could they have the same success nowadays? Do you have a dream you hope it gets realised? Could you describe your vision or concept of Lubin Conversations: Gilles Thevenin of Lubin - Oct. 23 House development (or should I say Evolution?) in next 3-5 years? Do you prefer re-launches – or new How did the idea to revive The House of Lubin came scents? Do you prefer unknown beauty – or commer- to you? Isn't it a great responsibility to make perfumes cial success? under this historical brand name? About Lubin bottles. I've seen the new bottle models Some info about the Idole-2005 project: Why did you and like them very much. But Lubin's bottle for Eva choose to launch this scent at Lubin first, instead of made by Lalique is just marvelous are you going to others? How did you choose Olivia Giacobetti and make luxury editions of Lubin again? Serge Mansau for that project? All the people have their dreams. What are the dreams You are working on new colognes: "Le Vetiver" and of Gilles Thevenin? "L'Eau Neuve". Could you give more information about those scents? Why did you choose those themes: Imagine yourself as a futurologist. How the Perfume Vetiver and Citrus-Patchouli colognes? Is it homage to industry will look like in 2007? In ten years? 50 years? classic themes – or you feel that there`re no perfect scents in those categories? What are their briefs given What are your 10 favourite perfumes – The "Best of to perfumer? Timing of launches? the World" Perfumes?

Some perfume aficionados cry over a lot of French Conversations: Lorenzo Villoresi - Nov. 7 perfumes (like Guerlain, Rochas and Dior) they were beautiful at the days of launch, but now are the shady First of all, I congratulate you for having won the pres- copies. They are buying vintage bottles… Would you tigious award “François Coty 2006”. Previous editions change the formulas of new relaunches? winners (among which I remember were Jacques Cavalier, Maurice Roucel, Francis Kurkdjian, and You mentioned that another perfumer from Grasse, other renowned international noses) are certainly Lucien Ferrero, instead of O. Giacobetti has created linked by close collaborations with the Majors of the the last fragrances. Would you please name some rea- perfume industry. This award is a great acknowledge- sons for that switch? Could you give us more info ment to your art and your commitment and of course a about his perfumes made for other brands? great pride for the artistic perfumery and the Italian tradition: there must be something new in the air? Are you going to re-launch some other Lubin's classic, like Gin-Fizz, Nuit de Longchamp, Fougère, Eva, Speaking of scented visions, your Florentine office Fumée, etc.? Do you have all those archives with orig- located at Via de’ Bardi is famous in the general imag- inal formulas – or ready perfumes stock? Could you ination of people passionate about scents as a cross- describe your work with archives (should I say Lubin's road of famous people from show biz, international Perfume Treasury?)? Any relations your House has politicians, intellectuals, and fellow perfumers. With with Osmothèque Paris? regard to this, you describe yourself as a medium, a

42 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS simple interpreter of the desires, even the intimate This cultural project features you also at the front line ones, of the customer. Here the curiosity teases us in creating a Perfume’s Art Academy based in about how many anecdotes you could tell! Has your Florence As an Italian, I must confess I’m proud and approach to a custom tailored perfume always been to also very curious about it… Can you tell us more act as a medium, or is it simply a result of experience? about this? Have you always been such an able interpreter of different visions for personalized scents? It’s interesting this all-round approach; hence not only education so but also creation. Good! I understand, but in the beginning there must be found a meeting point, a common ground between you and Certainly this is an ambitious project that requires lots the customer, mustn’t there? of energy. We wish you good luck! I can figure out that, taking care of so many projects going on, you In addition to custom tailored perfumery, you dedicat- have very little free time left to think about the long- ed yourself also to your own perfume line, among term future. Nevertheless, would you comment about which I like to remember the ancestors Donna and your future personal projects? Uomo, but also other successes like Musk, Teint de neige and Yerbamate. The last born, that has certainly Well, I can say nothing more but to wish you contin- been a lucky charm to you, Alamut, is inspired by a ued enthusiasm and passion. I eagerly await your new trip to the orient: tell me about the creation of Alamut ventures and look forward to trying these new “scent- - what was that journey like? ed visions”.

A shelter, a “place of the flowers” as the word Gulistan Conversations: Jo Hook - Nov. 18 suggests, where you can dream…? Hi Jo. How are you feeling? Definitely your words correspond to a passion for excellence, the link with the tradition and the Italian That's good Smile Well, I guess we should get started! taste for perfumery, in particular its Florentine roots - this has brought you to other cultural projects related Can you tell us how The Goddess Line started? to the world of perfumery. For example, the commitment you made, since several years ago, participating Ok, great. Before you started Lakshmi, did you work in Italy’s Pitti Immagine, an event that brings together in the fragrance industry? Or was it a passion of yours? creative minds of all sorts, in the making of “Fragranze ”, a celebration of olfaction with numerous Oh ok. Wow, I like that phrase you used. famous panelists and guest speakers (such as Guy Robert, Chandler Burr, etc.). The event, in its fourth Hmmm Smile Well, I think you're doing it the right year, has seen 102 brands participating and is becom- way, no matter how it started! :) ing more and more one of the most important European references for arts and culture related to the So what industry did you work in before your acci- artistic perfumery. Certainly we’d like to be invited to dent, and before you started Lakshmi? participate in the next event. As for the past events, could you make tell us about some of your impres- Ok. For those who don't know what a life coach is, sions? could you briefly explain what you do? (And then we'll get into the scents! Smile)

43 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Now, let's get back to The Goddess Line. Which of the Oh true! :) Before we go on with the scent, can I say scents was the first to be developed? that you've picked 3 great goddesses to represent your scents Ah, of course, hence the company name Smile Let's talk about that one first then Smile Livia: The lemongrass is strong; Athena would've been a strong lady god Smile Could you please tell us who Lakshmi is? I guess it's time to look at the third scent, Parvati Alright - just thought I'd ask because we have a lot of international readers who may not know who she is She's the Indian goddess of... Smile Oh true! :) Before we go on with the scent, can I say What kind of a fragrance is Lakshmi? that you've picked 3 great goddesses to represent your scents I'm just having a bit of a sniff as you're explaining it... definitely sultry! Smile Ok, back to Parvati - can you tell us about this scent, please? Definitely. I find that with Egyptian musk brings out that aspect of a scent. I've got to say, I love all 3 of your scents, but Parvati is the one I've worn most, I really love the Oh yeah. I haven't tried too many scents with that vanilla/musk/amber combination ingredient so far, but of the couple I have tried, they've always had that same feeling All 3 scents come in various products - including the limited edition bottles. For sure! The next scent we could look at is Athena. Could you tell us a bit about the goddess the scent's Where are the bottles made? They're gorgeous! named after? Smile Close enough - next state on from New York, Now, Athena is a Greek goddess, whereas Lakshmi & isn't it? Parvati are Indian, am I right? And the bottles are different for each scent... just Smile You know, I can definitely see why this one is thought I should point that out, for the readers who linked with Athena it's clean and fresh, something an haven't been to your site active person would wear And Athena would've been very active, being the warrior goddess Then you have the roll-on scents. Was this the original way you wanted the scents to be stored? The lemongrass is strong; Athena would've been a strong lady god Smile Smile Your scents don't contain water or alcohol, is that right? I guess it's time to look at the third scent, Parvati Nice! Smile What do you use a base for the scents? She's the Indian goddess of... Oh nice. It’s got a nice feel to it when you put it on!

44 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Very luxurious Smile in aromatics at the time?

I like that! Smile So, your scents also come in other What did your mother use? body products, could you tell us what other products you have? Reeked in a bad way? Lol?

Oh nice! Lots of great products. That earlier comment about being drawn to gardens reminds me of my first encounter with Kinmokusei, or Conversations: JoAnne Bassett - Nov. 25 Japanese osmanthus! I kept walking by an area where the most incredible scent lingered...I had to seek out So, JoAnne, you and I met in cyberspace about a year and discover what it was...and this is a good point to ago...what prompted you to contact PerfumeCritic? transition into my first experiences with your fragrances. Your fragrance, Camille, is the most intrigu- Well, I'm very glad you did! Today I'm wearing a little ing osmanthus scent I've yet to discover. I do love bit of 4 of your scents. I have Napoleon and your nat- Ormonde Jayne's Osmanthus, but Camille is so differ- ural Jasmine Sambac attar on one arm... ent from anything else I've ever experienced.

On the other arm I have Colette and Versailles. Simply Speaking of real flower absolutes, tell me about the by the names of these creations, I can tell you are very jasmine attar you sent me. It's incredible! interested in French culture and perfumery. Is this something you created or imported? I like the juniper top note in Napoleon - it's different from what I'm used to with commercial juniper scents. Oh, my closest friend is in a constant search for the perfect gardenia aroma...so far the best thing we've So how did you get started in perfumery, JoAnne? found, and we both agree, is surprisingly, Yves Let's go back as early as possible! Rocher! I'd love to see, er, sniff what you've come up with! So you started in the 70's...but why? What got you started in aromatics? So, JoAnne...you have quite a selection of fragrances on your website - are there a few that you hold closer Perhaps in a past life? to your heart than others for specific reasons?

Go back even further - what prompted you to do those Are you currently working on any new scents now? things? Wow! What fantastic news - any hints about what we So we could say that in a sense, you've always been can expect? drawn to aromatics in one form or another. Who's to say if the events that led to you becoming a perfumer Do you think this is a movement that will be more than were merely serendipity or simply part of your life's just a trend, going "green" with fragrances? path.

Wow! That's quite a change from stockbroker to perfumer! Had anyone else in your family been interested

45 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Interesting. With the amount of fragrance I use, I often continued success. find myself wondering just what exactly I'm spraying on my skin (and inhaling)... I just want to remind readers that you are offering them 10% off their purchases at JoAnne Bassett when And the results of those studies have shown? they mention PerfumeCritic at checkout! Have a great holiday JoAnne, and please keep us informed of your So let's talk about Le Voyage for a moment - there new releases! Bye! have been some very enthusiastic responses to our November Voyage promotion. Where did the concept Interview with Roja Dove - Perfumer - Dec. 1 for this fragrance come from? First, thank you for accepting to take our questions. I And how did you decide upon the composition of Le might perhaps start with a question about the origins Voyage? of this perfume creation project. Because you have been for so long in this industry, more than thirty Le Voyage was one of my first "natural" perfumes. As years, it must have been quite a long time in the mak- I said, they are quite different from synthetic scents, ing. And also, was it initially your motivation for and it's taken me a number of tries and a lot of patience entering the perfume industry, to pursue a career as a to achieve an understanding, no, an acceptance that perfumer? they too are valid and valuable forms of perfumery. Gail Adrian and Ayala Moriel really helped me with The fragrances you refer to that are hidden in a draw- this journey, or should I say, voyage!?! er, are these, the ones Clement referred to when he spoke about the Roja Dove fragrances? So onto the lightning round of questions! So you want to keep the romance of perfume alive, What was the first perfume you purchased for your- preserve a little bit more magic than is common these self? days?

What was the last perfume or scented product you pur- Mmm, I see a very intuitive rapport with people. This chased for yourself? gives rise to two questions for me. Do you yourself really do creative fragrances or do you work with per- What scented product would you most like to add to fumers? your collection at this point in time? So you are actually technically speaking, a “nose”, Is there any scent (perfume or product) that you've and… all right, I see. And so it’s interesting to learn been longing to buy or receive? about the history of the Haute Parfumerie. It looks wonderful, from the pictures. Is there anything else you'd like readers to know about you or your creations, JoAnne? It looks like it’s a little dream nook that you have thought of for, you know, people. Well, then I'm happy one of our readers will get a chance to explore the intimacy involved between you How lovely Moving on to the questions about the and your creations! Thank you so much for taking the names for the perfumes, the new trio. They were very time to chat with me today, JoAnne, and I wish you intriguing I thought, you know, punchy, a bit provoca-

46 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS tive why these names? perfumes, gender-oriented perfumes?

I see, so there was a sort of common philosophy Yes, so that there is a little bit of room for personal behind them, you wanted to promote a certain idea of inspiration perfumery, and then you dedicated each perfume to a different classic genre, apparently. So then of course it’s always interesting to ask you if you had some great classic references of perfumery And so, logically, you are going to add more fra- when you created this recent trio of perfumes? grances then, to cover more families? Oh, maybe? It’s subtler? Part II Yes, there is this stereotype, absolutely, yes. And so, logically, you are going to add more fragrances then, to cover more families? Oh, maybe? PART III

The Secret. Yes, I understand, I mean I understand. I mean I am not going to say exactly what I think but I do think that I don’t know, some fragrances have succeeded thanks the chypres have a sophistication sometimes that ori- to their sheer qualities so. entals don’t have to them. They are more complicated in a way than orientals and they also put a distance, a Yes, and on the other hand I was just thinking of this social distance, with mmm, you know, potential suit- point, the fact that Les Parfums de Rosine are often, ors let’s say. Yet they have this sillage that is some- you know, quoted as an example of (early) bad mar- times extraordinary and like a rope. keting that could have gone right if it had been done better but then I read this interesting remark by Oh yes, there is definitely one, absolutely. Edmond Roudnitska who said that there were prob- lems with the compositions of Les Parfums de Rosine. Which ones are the good ones? So I don’t know precisely why, but it was interesting to see that, you know, there is this dynamic between Oh yes, the base should do that. the commercial and creative sides. It’s the last word.

Certainly, there was this question raised by Octavian And so I thought, I mean this is maybe a little bit Coifan who visits the blog and he is a perfume histori- didactic but you made this rather strong comment to an and he pointed out that there might be a problem Cosmetic News, that “five great vultures have killed with the name “Scandal” because it referred to such a the industry….” classic. and I thought it would be interesting to hear you elab- I haven’t seen it. I have seen it without the “e” pre- orate a bit on that position. cisely and I verified that to see, you know, if there was this detail missing or added and…. This is paradoxical when you say that marketers are more in the forefront and perfumers have become A different question now. Do you think there are mas- more like secondary personalities. At the same time culine and feminine accords, masculine and feminine however, in the culture, I mean, in our perception of

47 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL perfumers and perfumery, the perfumers have come to Tell us more about the launch of your first commercial the fore more thanks to the media. So how do you fragrances. explain this paradox, if there is one? What inspired you to launch these? Yes, absolutely, yes….I am trying to think of. What have been the surprise successes of the Haute Yes. Mmm, I mean this is a historic question and this Perfumerie? is probably not really the place to address it, but it’s true that the perfumers have come to the fore more in What trends do you predict/see for the future of the the past few decades and it started before there were fragrance market? blogs for example. So, you know it’s interesting. What are your plans for the future in terms of fra- Ah, I remember right now an interview with Olivier grance? Cresp in which he said himself that I can’t remember now in which decade this started but that journalists How do you see the role of PR in a successful fra- started interviewing perfumers and that, that was new. grance launch?

This is a very interesting point and I'm sure it must How does the media playa role in this? have been a contributing element. Are there any journalists currently setting the agenda There is also your work as a historian of fragrances. for beauty at the moment?

PART IV Do you see a strong link between fashion and fragrance? There is also your work as a historian of fragrances and we have heard about your attempts at resurrecting Whiff of Haute Couture - Frederic Malle - Dec. 23 a number of fragrances. Could we have a clearer understanding of what you do? How do you convince In fashion, the mentor can see if the seams are poorly people to put old perfumes back into production? constructed, but how can you tell if a scent is on the right track in the early stages? The Editor Meets Roja Dove - Dec. 10 Are perfumers a temperamental lot? What are they How has fragrance and the industry changed since you like to work with? began working in it? What is the ultimate goal in the lab? How do you feel about the current celebrity fragrance phenomenon and is it a sustainable market? What makes Chanel No. 5 such a great fragrance?

What are the key directions in fragrance and what are How would you rate your own nose on a scale of 1 to the catalysts? 10?

How has fragrance quality been affected by the race to produce celebrity scents?

48 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

2008 What’s your favorite fragrance designed by someone else? In Praise of Synthetics - Jan. 9 The fragrance you wish you had designed? As you see it, what are some of the unique benefits of synthetics? Your favorite author?

What would the fragrance industry look like if syn- Your bedside book? thetic materials were lost? Your favorite movie director? What are some of your favorite synthetic materials to work with and why? Your cult film?

Can you please give - few examples of scents that What about music? exploit synthetics particularly well? Your favorite drink? Can you please give a few examples of how synthetics and naturals might be employed in tandem to construct The thing you hate most of all? a winning fragrance? The innate talent you’d most like to have? Interview with Jean-Pierre Bethouart - Jan 12 Your motto? What is your main character trait? Jean-Pierre Bethouart, angel or devil? What do you look for in men? Interview with Annie Buzantian - Jan. 12 What do you look for in women? What influences you as a designer? Aside from yourself, who would you like to be? How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What Where would you like to live? are, in your opinion, their distinguishing characteristics? What was the first fragrance you wore? Do you think that being a woman influences the way What is your favorite color? you create and if so, in what way?

Your favorite flower? What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you had created? And why? Your favorite smell? How do you envision the future for fragrances? Do Which is your favorite among the fragrances you’ve you have any hopes for the future? designed?

49 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Interview with Jacques Cavallier - Jan 12 Interview with Oliver Cresp - Jan 12

The main trait of your personality? The dominant feature of your character?

The most important quality in men? The quality you most appreciate in other people?

The most important quality in women? Besides yourself, who would you have liked to be?

Aside from yourself, who would you like to be? Where would you like to live?

Where would you like to live? The first fragrance you wore?

The first fragrance you wore? Your favorite color?

Your favorite color? Your favorite flower?

The flower that you love? Your favorite smell?

Your favorite smell? Your favorite of the fragrances you’ve designed?

Your favorite fragrance of your own creation? Your favorite fragrance designed by someone else?

Your favorite fragrance of someone else’s creation? The fragrance you wish you had designed?

The fragrance you wish you had created? Your favorite author?

Your favorite author? Your bedside reading?

Your beside book? Your favorite movie director?

Your favorite film director? Your cult film?

Your cult film? Your favorite drink?

Your favorite drink? What you hate most of all?

What do you hate above all else? An innate gift that you would like to have?

Cowardice Your motto?

The gift of nature that you would like to have? Spiritual or materialistic?

Your motto?

50 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Interview with Isabelle Doyen - Jan 12 What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you had created? And why? What influences you as a designer? How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fra- How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What grance brands? are, in your opinion, their distinguishing characteristics? Interview with Etat Libre d’Orange Jan 12

Do you think that being a woman influences the way What are your influences as a designer? you create… and if so, in what way? How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you are, in your opinion, their characteristic features? had created? And why? What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you How do you envisage the future for fragrances? Do had created? And why? you have any hopes for the future? How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fra- Interview with Elisabeth de Feydeau - Jan 12 grance brands?

When we talk about perfume nowadays, we almost Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena - Jan 12. automatically evoke the notion of seduction. Is that specific to our time, or has that been present in the his- How does being surrounded by greenery inspire you? tory of perfume throughout the ages? What’s your favorite “green” ingredient? Can you tell us any historical anecdotes about that? Is there a “green thread” connecting the different fra- Do some perfumes incarnate the idea of seduction grances in the Jardins d’Hermès collection? more than others for you? Jean-Claude Ellena, what makes you turn “green with How do you interpret this trend: is the phenomenon anger”? linked to fashion, to nostalgia, to a desire to get back to our roots or to consumers’ interest in perfume his- An intererview with Hervé Gambs - Jan 12. tory? We visited your new boutique on Paris’s Rive Gauche What about you, is there a perfume that you would like last year. You have a strong presence in France, and to be able to rediscover? you’re highly admired in Japan, too. Where else can we find your creations? What other era would you have liked to live in, and why? In addition to floral design, you have a large catalogue of home fragrances and candles. Do you see fragrance Interview with Celine Elenna - Jan 12. as part of a continuum of your desire to recreate the plant world? What are your influences as a designer?

51 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

As part of your fragrance lines, you have designed Interview with Lalurice Rahme - Jan 12. unusual scented objects, like the ‘Monolithe’ and the collection ‘Une fleur, un parfum’. Why is that? Laurice Rahme, you were born in France, but it’s New York that your heart chose. Why? While you used to make chic but relatively classic or contemporary fragrances (orchid, cut grass, fig tree, What conduced you to create Bond N°9 ? The spirit of etc.) you now seem determined to explore new territo- NYC, the challenge to put into scents an entire city, the ry, like salty, crunchy green, cashmere and other wish to propose a new brand that got off the beaten ranges. path?

With their clean, pure lines, 100% plant-based wax Which neighborhood in New York was for you the and 10% fragrance concentration, your candles have easiest, the most natural to transform into scent ? On been very successful with connoisseurs. Which fra- the opposite, which one seemed the most difficult, the grances are your favorites? one that you may still wait to ‘perfume’ ? Could you tell us about these places in a few words? Another unusual thing you do is to present your plant- inspired objets seasonally, like fashion, with a spring- When you think about NYC, is there a typical smell or summer collection and a fall-winter one. What trends raw material that evokes you the city ? And for other can you recommend? What will “the best-dressed inte- American cities like Los Angeles or Miami, do you riors be wearing” his winter? also have precise olfactory ‘correspondences’?

To get back to fragrance, what are your favorite olfac- Besides, would it inspire you to put into bottle other tory accords? What is your eau de toilette or fragrance cities, like L.A, Paris, London or Roma, today ? Or brand of choice? maybe more confidential cities or regions?

What about yourself, Hervé Gambs… have you been If you had created the fragrances Rive Gauche, 24 considering the possibility of designing fragrances for Faubourg or Champs Elysées (respectively Yves St people rather than just for the home? Laurent, Hermès and Guerlain), would you have ‘perfumed’ these places of Paris differently? An Interview with Aurélien Guichard - Jan 12. After the USA, you have decided to win Europeans’ What are your influences as a designer? hearts. You launch Bond N°9 in the UK, in France. What are your ambitions on the Old Continent? How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What are, in your opinion, their characteristic features? How do you think to seduce a clientele that may not necessarily know NYC and the very particular mood What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you of its neigborhoods ? Are you going to have a more had created? And why? hedonistic approach?

How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fra- Your brand proposes 26 creations so far. Which Bond grance brands? N°9 fragrance resembles you most, Laurice Rahme?

Do you have a wish for the future? What were the first perfumes that you wore? Do they

52 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS evoke you today accurate places? Good point...And let's talk about the men's scents...what was your inspiration? I mean, when What fragrance by another perfumer do you prefer ? crafting the actual aromas, what were your points of reference? I have both on at the moment (Rebel What fragrance would you have loved to create? Ambush and Utopian) and both are fascinating in that they seem to constantly be changing on my skin on Conversations: Russell Newell - Jan 14. moment I think I prefer Utopian, and then something musky jumps out of Rebel and I think I prefer that I’'ve been looking over your website and am wearing one...Actually, I think I meant that the other way both samples you sent...how would you describe your round. fragrances to our readers? The lavender and myrtle are an interesting pairing and and your fragrances are natural perfumes? add a slightly vegetal feel to the aroma...

What made you decide to approach fragrance this You described it as "rising smoke" on the website, and way? I can definitely get that note.

And you are the sole perfumer of the SocialCreatures' I also have to note that neither scent is as "in-your- creations? face" as mass-market fragrances - they stay close to the skin. How & Why did you decide on perfume? At present, there are three scents available, two of Tell me more about "the opportunity to train". which I have tried...are there more scents in the works? And initially what attracted you to fragrance - I know from reading your website that you are a photogra- Congrats, Russell - you definitely have a sense of pher, painter, writer... where you'd like this project to go!

I think that's a great idea, Russell. The bottles are obvi- We recently showcased a photographer's interpretation ously works of art, and the website explains the of olfactory images...How did you select the photos process very well. I realize that natural essences, Orris you use on the site? for example, are quite pricey due to 1) high quality, 2) the difficulty to obtain such essences, and 3) the rarity The inclusion of the photos definitely helps create the of the product. But in terms of selling a fragrance to brand image. people who are looking at fragrance as a gift, or for that matter, to those of us who know fragrance as an And SocialCreatures is a family affair, isn't it? obsession, the price is still quite high. I think a lower price point, and even a smaller size (15ml?) might M: Going back to you, Russell, I have some standard make the scents even more approachable...? Then questions that I like to ask perfumers - this is kind of again, if a luxury product is the intention, I think you like the lightning round, answer with whatever comes hit the nail on the head...What an incredible combina- to mind first, ok? tion of artistry and perfumery! What was the first fragrance you ever wore?

53 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Dunhill as in the original, yes? might want to bring to the table in 2008?

I see - Dunhill Edition. What was the last fragrance Perfumer’s Interview - Jan 29. you purchased for yourself? What was your inspiration for the CK IN2U fra- And what was the last fragrance you purchased as a grance? gift for someone? Who was it bought for? Please describe both CK IN2U fragrances? What fragrance would you most like to add to your collection? Are there any unique ingredients that make the fragrances special or different? Is there anything else you'd like readers to know about you, the fragrances, or the company? Are there any olfactive similarities between CK One and CK IN2U? Any plans for future collaborations, and will your fragrance be available in any shops outside Europe? CK IN2U is positioned as a scent for the “technosexu- al” woman/man, how is that communicated in the fra- Wow! Way to go, Russell! grance?

My pleasure, Russell. Thanks so much for giving us a How do the fragrances appeal to both women’s and chance to get to know you and your creative process a men’s senses? bit better. I wish you the best of luck, and please let me know if there is any way we can help spread the word! How are the CK IN2U fragrances different from other women and men’s fragrances? Conversations: An Interview - Marian Bendeth - Jan 23. How long did it take you to develop the fragrances, So, after having worked in show business as a jazz and how many attempts? music critic, what made you choose to focus your life on fragrance? Is there an importance that goes beyond What are the current trends in women’s and men’s fra- just nice smells in other words, is it personal to you grances and how does CK IN2U set a new trend? and in what way? What occasion will CK IN2U be worn for and how Where do you see fragrance trends going today? will it make him/her feel? Where would you like to see trends go? Collaborations & the Golden Rule - Feb. How does fragrance marketing affect our characteriza- tion of ourselves as women and men? Does marketing When Juicy Couture launched in 2006, how far out did affect how we see our own personalities and sexuali- you look? ties? Where do you see the marketing trend going and where would you like to see it go? Was there a sense of how the product would fit with scent trends over a period of time? How do you want your unique services to affect the world in which we live--are there any awarenesses you How does a marketer consider both the current market

54 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS and tomorrow’s? grances are driving growth in both Western Europe’s and North America’s fine fragrance markets. Do you Is the partnership role the supplier plays key to the agree? long-term success of fragrances? Can it be expected that premium fragrances continue How do you consider what’s going on in the market, to be the key driver of these markets? how you’re serving marketers today and how you’re looking forward at the same time? In “The Forgotten Fragrance Consumer” presentation, it was stated that fine fragrances are competing in a In a presentation called “The Forgotten Fragrance new beauty world where everything has a significant Consumer,” Barbara Preyssas, global vice president, fragrance. Do you agree? How does this change how Analysis Scent International, said that fine fragrances you brand, market and sell a scent? are competing in a new beauty world where everything has a significant fragrance. Does this actually provide other opportunities such as more strength in fragrance brand extensions skin care, Do you agree? Is there competition between fine fra- lotions, etc.? grances and say, a personal care product? Is there more of an advantage for fragrance brands in Does that change how you approach the creation of a competition from scented products? fine fragrance? What is IFF’s assessment of the growth potential of Is the experience that that fragrance represents or fos- fine fragrance, and what do you see for the market as ters the ultimate goal of its creation? a whole for both the short and long-term?

How important is the overall concept and appeal of the As those markets open up and perfumers experience brand itself to the success of the fragrance? those markets, do they explore more native raw materials for each of those markets or regions? Does a strong initial brand connection make a bigger impact for the release of a new fragrance or for that Conversations: Janna Sheehan - Feb. 10 fragrance’s longevity? It's been a while since I've been so excited about a new In the online gaming world Second Life, osMoz is a fragrance line! But actually, you're almost ready to cel- virtual perfume island a location where your avatar ebrate your one-year anniversary, right? [online character] can visit and fulfill your fragrance fantasies created by Firmenich. It’s the first of its kind When did this entire project begin for you? and is one example of current and growing marketing strategies. What is the key to being both innovative And tell me about how this all got started! Spare no and successful in marketing a fragrance? detail!

Are there one or two golden rules that can be applied Ok, you know I gotta ask - what was the perfume you across markets and segments? had for 25 years?

Euromonitor International states that premium fra- Ahhh, interesting! And would I know this friend of

55 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL yours? First of all, I LOVE Thievery Corporation - have you sent them the scent yet? And what a great story about So if you had only ever worn one scent, why was fra- Whyte Rabitt, amazing how life and art intermingle grance in your future? (and aren't they really the same?)

Hence the "essential oil" perfumes? It is incredibly unusual - I can smell the banana, but it's not like what I would typically associate with banana: The Trance Essence Eau de Parfum line is unusual, There's no synthetic, cloyingly sweet fruit note. Janna - not quite mainstream perfume, not quite "natural perfumes". Would you say they are “mixed I have to know, is there any sandalwood in there? Or media”? am I just willing that note to be there?

Yes, I think that's so. And how many years was the line I was once told by a perfumer/professor acquaintance "in the making"? of mine that actually sweet pea has no real smell - what creates this aroma in Hail Merri? And you'd never had a go at creating scented products before that? So now what's this about "You Decide"? Tell me about this new project? Tell us a little more about you. For example, your scent Hail Merri (one of my faves) was said to have So these personalities are the inspiration for the been inspired by the Indiana woods - is that where you scents? are from originally? I do hope you're writing about it!!! Would make a fas- When I first read that description for Hail Merri in cinating read. your Exquisite Nectar oil sample pack, I was a little surprised! The city I currently live in is "Indiana"...but Can you give me an example? of course, I'm in PA. So considering the perfume biz is somewhat new to you, tell us more about your back- Wow! I can see Edie making her own perfume! ground. When can we expect this line to launch? Are you the designer of the Trance Essence packaging? Tell me more! What will it smell like?

I can't wait! Let’s be sure to come back to that later in Hmmm. Anything lined up that will be slightly darker, our conversation…Please keep us in mind when we're warmer than the current scents? you're ready to launch! So back to Abbey Rose… Before I forget, I wanna come back to your previous I know you mentioned that Goldie Hawn bought that comment about HM - "I am so close to it I cannot wear scent for her daughter, Kate Hudson, yes? it!" What do you mean?

Where did all of these ideas for fragrance blends come Hmmm, but you did say that you're drawn to Abbey from? Rose?

56 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

I couldn't agree more, Janna. Well, we're getting to the How were they "in the field"? end of our conversation, hopefully only the first of many! Are you ready for the lightning round? Does your mother still design fragrance?

Ok, here we go...Janna, are you a perfumer or an And your father? artist? Do you have siblings that are in the fragrance biz? What's the last scented product you purchased? So Raffy, what fragrance are you wearing right now? What one fragrant note best represents you as you are in this moment? And it has a very unusual woody aroma, perhaps agar- wood(?), What was the first smell you remember falling in love with? What was your inspiration for these two scents?

What perfume note have you not worked with yet that I see, and how about Mogul? you're longing to play with? And that's Mogul, yes? What would you most like our readers to know about you and your artistry? What prompted you, being a retailer of so many fragrances, to develop your own line? Was it inevitable - Indie Designer Interviews: Vmagique - Feb. 22 is it something you had always dreamed of?

How did you get started creating perfumes? Your own fragrances are the single notes scents? Tell me a little more about your new line of fragrances? Were there other scents that served as a starting point when designing American Gypsy? Any advice you would give to aspiring entrepreneurs? Is there almond present? Who are your favorite designers? So Raffy...How were the scents actually created - did Conversations: Raffy - Feb. 26 you do the blending "in-house" or did you work with an outside firm? I've been following your online shop for quite some years now. I think most people who purchase fra- I see. And are there plans to also create coordinating grance on-line know your name and shop. bath and home accessories?

Sounds great, at what point next year? Raffy, as I see it, you are playing out three different roles - fragrance aficionado, businessman /entrepre- Well, before we get into the new line, let's talk a bit neur, and perfumer/artist. How do these roles compete more about you. Where are you originally from, or facilitate each other? Raffy? Do you have a favorite Crown?

57 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Are there any other lines that you sell that we should started? know about, perhaps disappearing or hard to find? Where did the name Opus Oils come from? So what lines will you be taking on in 2008? Are you going to be carrying more niche lines? Do you enjoy music?

Can you tell me anything about it? I'm often contacted Has the fragrance industry always been something you by smaller companies looking for representation - wanted to work in? should I be sending them your way? Oh cute. You've worked as one of the developers for How did you discover it? The Apothecary at Barneys New York, and founded a natural perfume line called Precious Petals...was this Yeah - I think that's the downside, all the hand decant- before Opus Oils started? ing...So about my previous question - I'm often contacted by smaller companies looking for representa- Your company is based in Hollywood, California does tion - should I be sending them your way? this give you inspiration for the scents you develop?

And that sounds like a smart business decision! Ok, so Do you get to spend a lot of time there? Raffy, we're coming to the end of our chat (for now, at least). I have a few standard questions, I call it “the Did you like my segue? lightning round!” Ready? For those who haven’t tried Opus Oils scents (or other First scent you ever bought for yourself? fragrances made of natural ingredients), what’s so unique about trying oil-based fragrances, as opposed Last scent you gave as a gift to someone, and who did to alcohol-based scents? you give it to? What’s involved in the development process of your What scent would you most like to acquire? scents? How long does it take to make a scent?

Is there anything else you'd like our readers to know Where did you get the idea to use those? about you, the shop, or your fragrances? You just said that the postcards inspired you to create Well thank you so much for taking the time to chat the scents in the line...could you tell us about the 6 per- with me. I feel we've just gotten started - let's talk fumes? again sometime soon, ok? Next, Absinthe which is obviously based on what it’s Conversations: Kedra Hart - March 2 named after. When I read the ingredients, and the description of the collection on your site, I couldn’t Time differences confuse me! LOL Anyway, are you help but think of Kylie Minogue’s character in Moulin ready to get started? Rouge! Can you tell us a bit about the two scents in that range, and how you got the inspiration for them? Ok...You’re the co-founder and ‘Master Blender’ (love that title!) of Opus Oils. Can you tell us how Opus Oils Let's quickly go through the Divine collection, which

58 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS consists of 4 scents named after gods and goddesses. upcoming classes? Can you tell us a bit about them? Cery cool! Opus Oils has gotten a lot of publicity Fetish is the next collection we’ll look at where did the through various fragrance blogs and publications, such idea for this set of scents come from? as Now Smell This and Scented Salamander, plus by Russian and Chinese press. What do you think of the Ok, the last of the collections is Island Girl – which attention that Opus Oils has attracted? has 5 scents based on different islands around the world. Have you visited all the places the scents are What are your favourite fragrance notes? inspired by? Do you have a favourite scent from Opus Oils? Ok, so we've talked about Mantra, which is inspired by Bali - what's in that, for all those who haven't tried it? What about a favourite fragrance from a company And can you tell us about the other 4 scents as well, other than yours? please? Livia: Nice! And finally, what’s next for Opus Oils? Livia: All the scents in all the above collections come Any new releases ahead, or are they top secret? in various body products as well, like bath salts, body butter, bath & body oil, and body lotion. Do these use Interview with Perfumer Egon Oelkers - March 14 natural ingredients as well? How did the cooperation with Thorsten Biehl come Ok, so we’ve talked about your collections – now, onto about? the new scent. Roller Girl is Opus Oil’s latest release – launched in May 2007. The tagline is “The Perfume How did your fragrances eo01, eo02 and eo03 That Packs A Punch” and it certainly does! It has an emerge? attitude about it!! Could you please tell us about where this scent came from? How do biehl. parfumkunstwerke differ from ordinary perfumes? So, what does it smell like, for those who haven't tried it yet? Does this freedom make it harder or simpler to compose a fragrance? All of your fragrances are available directly from your website, which is - can our overseas readers purchase How does it function at all, the composition of a per- scents from you? fume?

Fantastic!! Now, not only do you make all these gor- How long did it take you to create your biehl.par- geous fragrances, but you also make custom scents for fumkunstwerke? boutiques and salons. What goes into making a custom scent? How did cooperation with other perfumers look?

You also teach perfume classes both in California and Is being a perfumer your dream job? in Paris. How long have you been doing this? What topics do you cover? And where can we find out about

59 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Interview with a Perfumer: Kristen Michèle - April Why do you think so many women and men are part of this fragrance explosion, especially the niche and We both talk a lot about scent and memory and you’ve natural trend? mentioned your love of perfume dates from childhood. What’s your favorite scent memory? An Interview with Ulrich Lang - April 14

How did you go about opening your business and what As many readers will relate, fragrance often becomes do you see as the challenges facing you in these uncer- part of one's life at an early age. What were the early tain times? reference points for the perfumer?

What are your favorite and least favorite aspects of To Smell & Back - Chandler Burr - April 17 running your business? Why do celebs want fragrances? What advice would you give to anyone contemplating becoming a perfumer? Do you think the perfume world will ever become less secretive? I love the three fragrances in your line: Notes Fraîches, Fleurs Blanches, and Épices Orientale. They are very Will we get to a place where we don't need any more different from one another, which gives your cus- perfume? tomers a nice variety to choose from. Can you give me an idea of your creative process? Do you start with a Have any recently released fragrances surprised you? concept or fragrance note in mind? Are there any perfumes debuting soon you're looking What’s up next? Do you have a new fragrance in the forward to? works? Do you think other celebs will follow Parker's exam- When someone comes to you for a bespoke fragrance, ple? how do you go about creating it for your client? How do you decide about the notes, how long does the Conversations with Ulrich Lang - April 21 process take, and what’s the price range? Nice to meet you too. Well fist of all I must confess I Interview with - Laurie Stern - April 12 know very little about you and so I tried to find some info about you on the web. But I wanted to get to know Can you tell us briefly about yourself and your per- you myself, it’s far warmer and personal, so I will fumery? begin by asking about your background and how your experience influenced you and led you into perfumes. What was your favorite fragrance growing up? Ok, Uli, now let’s talk a bit more about your scents. What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever How did Anvers begin? smelled? So have you been directly involved in the concoction What power do fragrances have power over people, do of the scent? you think, if any?

60 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Usually talking about scents is not easy, scents are spectrum of perfume, from aromatherapeutic products, perceived from every person in a different way; more- to natural perfumes, to the classically styled fra- over you cannot see or touch or ear them… you can grances, and even the off the shelf drugstore brands, just try to describe with sinaestesie what you perceive. PerfumeCritic can bring the beauty and social signifi- So I guess it’s been hard to let noses understand what cance of fragrance use and olfaction to the public. So you wanted exactly. let's get to know more about you - how did you get started in perfumery? Just how young were you when Oh really? And how did you do it? struck with the realization that scent is fascinating?

What about your second fragrance, Anvers 2? Hmm, well, we'll come back to the mainstream in just a bit...That reminds me...My piano teacher (when I What about the packaging of your fragrances? was 12) lent me her entire set of essential and perfume oils for a few months - she had no idea she was creat- Well, we have talked about your past, your present, ing a monster! Do you still wear Chanel #5? and now what about your future? Part II Conversations with Anya McCoy - May 10 I think there are some perfumers who are just inspired First of all it's a pleasure to chat with you! and can effectively create entire wardrobes of fragrance in a short time - perhaps the ideas have been I know a little bit about you, Anya, from reading your percolating? website and our few email exchanges, but where are you from originally? Ok, so back to you...you were obsessed with scent when you were a child - when did you create your first And how did you get into academia? perfume?

Yes! Orange juice! I just noticed that in the list of notes So, back to you - first scent created? from your website, but it didn't register to my nose...now that you've pointed it out, I can get a citrus I see - what was the deciding factor that brought you rind note slowly fading as the warmth of the middle to the creation of your first perfume, though? What notes is emerging. Another reason I find Temple so made you decide "yeah, I'll make one on my own?" special is that you have dedicated it to a specific group of people. Would you like to talk more about that? Can anyone be a perfumer, Anya?

So Temple is a scent for spiritual healing and medita- Anya, how has your history and background influ- tion? enced your perfumery?

Interesting I don't think the average consumer truly When am I coming over? understand the distinctions among various styles of fragrance. Is that part of your mission as an artist/per- So Anya, your own perfumery, teaching, the Guild, fumer? philanthropy...what does the future hold for Anya's Garden? Completely! I am hoping that by addressing the entire

61 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Ok, are you ready for the lightning round? names of your scents affecting the customer’s view of themselves? Lol here we go! What's the last fragrance you purchased for yourself? Are there any particular notes or blends in your coffret that excite you the most? Why? What's the first fragrance you ever wore? For you, is fragrance a force of habit? A lifestyle What's the last scent you purchased for someone else? choice? A reflection of one’s imagination or self Who was it for? esteem? Or a revelation of one’s apparent taste and good breeding? What fragrance would you most like to have in your possession? Which vintage fragrance in your opinion should last for an eternity and always be maintained as an original There's no retail fragrance you've been curious about formulation with the original materials? or wanting for your own? What has surprised you the most since the launch of Anya, is there anything else you'd like readers to know By Kilian fragrances? Is there a anecdote that you can about you or your creations? share?

Il Fragrance Delecto - May 22 If your fragrances are an extension of something innate within your psyche, what exactly would that There is an obvious black and white theme to femi- be? And what direction do you see it traveling to for ninity, masculinity, romance and sexuality to your the future? scents. Does an ingenue theme denote naivety or the ultimate artisan’s muse for you? Or Straight to Heaven If you could compare your scents and flacons to a par- with White Cristal, is that your interpretation of the ticular Artist, who would that be? dark side of humanity? Are these names and subtitles (and oh Kilian, why the subtitles?) autobiographical? An Interview with Olivia Giacobetti - May 26

When you left the corporate world of fragrance, what What was your encounter with Andrée Putmann like? differences were you absolutely resolute and bent on making and were foremost in your mind when devel- What guidelines did you have for the creation of the oping the By Kilian scents? fragrance?

Can you explain the correlation between the written Is the creative approach for a brand such as Hermes word or music such as hard-core hip hop lyrics in different from creating for a personality like Andrée imagery and your style of blends? Putmann?

Would you call yourself an aesthete? A precisionist? If Does the notion of unisex fragrance mean anything to so, how have these traits invaded and assisted your you? choices with your new company? Do you think this applies to perfumery too? Who is your customer? How do you see the blends and

62 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Jean Claude Elenna - Q & A - May 28 ed for you, Henri Alméras?

How long did you spend in Kerala researching? If you could team up together in that time period, who would you like to co-create a fragrance for? What were your first impressions? If you could bring anything back with you, what Were these impressions included in the perfume? would that be?

Were there any elements you were unsure of? Conversations: Liz Zorn - June 25

How would you describe your working process when What brought you to the art/craft/science of per- creating a perfume? fumery?

Describe a typical day of yours. What do you enjoy most about creating perfumes?

What do you try to achieve in a perfume? I won’t ask you to choose amongst your own perfumes, but what would you list as your top 5 favorite What is your favourite part of creating perfume? perfumes? Or perhaps the perfumers / perfume houses that most influenced you? Do you think you have a signature? What are your top favorite notes? If you had to choose, which is your favourite creation? SOIVOHLE’ – what does this mean to you? Which fragrances, from other perfumers, do you admire? What are the most difficult scents/fragrances/notes to create? Have you had one (or more) perfume that took Scent Treks Through Time - 2008 ages to perfect but ultimately worked?

If it was possible to travel back in time to any particu- How long does it normally take you, from the idea all lar century and decade of your choice to meet your the way through to a finished perfume? number one inspirational Perfumer: Can you explain to our readers, (in lay person’s terms) When would that be? how you go about creating a perfume? Approximately how many different ingredients are needed? How Who would that be? many “tries/tweaks” does it take?

What specific questions would you want to learn from Is there a trend in perfumery that you’re excited them? about?

I wouldn’t have any questions, but the wish to live a Is there a trend in perfumery that disappoints you? week with him, in his fantasy, share his carefree life, his parties. Well finally I would ask him one question: Have you read Perfume: The Guide by Luca Turin and How did you collaborate with the perfumer who creat- Tania Sanchez? What did you think?

63 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Conversations: George Wuchsa - July 19 So, George, in what other places in the world do you discover new lines? Any great stories you'd like to So first, it's great to meet you George! share?

I remember first ordering from you back in 2003, Where's the most unusual place you discovered a fra- Villoresi Yerbamate and L'Artisan Jour de Fete, and grance line that you now carry? the package was amazing! It was like a celebration with confetti and feathers...I really liked the idea of Have you had many offers to produce a fragrance line opening a package that felt like a party. But your busi- for the shop? ness has actually been around for quite some time, how did you decide to focus on niche fragrances? Do you remember your very first fragrance?

Yes, I remember hearing about you on MakeupAlley - Wow! What was the most recent fragrance you fell in everyone was going nuts about all of the European love with? hard-to-find fragrances. I used to get Villoresi samples with silver stickers on them that read "Wuchsa" and I I’ll have to add that to my First-in-Fragrance sample used to wonder what that was! Of course, now I know wishlist. So is there anything else you’d like to share that Wuchsa is YOU! with readers, George?

So you are as much a "perfummaniac" as many of your How does shipping from Germany to the US work customers? nowadays? Is it expensive?

I know the feeling. Will you tell us what some of your That sounds like a great idea, George. What other new first scents were? lines can we expect to see at First-In-Fragrance in the future? George, have you had holy grail moments, where you find something and you think "this is it...this is what Lol! Any lines you'd like to take on that you haven't I've been..." and then you realize that there are still a approached yet? ridiculous number of aromas left to be experienced and you wonder if you'll ever find it? The Perfumer Who Hates Perfume - July 26

What are a few of the lines you've most recently taken Are there scents which have been impossible to repro- on? duce?

"Septimanie Perfumes, an independent luxury per- An Interview with - Bertrand Duchaufour - July 30 fume house founded by a garden designer, is launching a sensuous white floral fragrance, Pavillon des Mr. Duchaufour, you have created some of the most Fleurs, inspired by the ethereal scent of a nocturnal memorable fragrances of the past decade, including garden. Underpinned with jasmine absolute and ylang, Timbuktu and Dzongkha of or L'Artisan Parfumeur. notes of orange blossom, lily of the valley, English Are you going to collaborating with the Company's as leather and iris, and a barely suppressed hint of its sole perfumer going forward? Will you be doing cloves..." How did you find this line? other projects as well?

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What was the inspiration for your latest L’Artisan cre- An Interview with Perfumer - Thierry Wasser - Aug.11 ation Fleur de Liane? What was the vision for this feminine scent and and please share some highlights Hello Thierry, and thank you for taking the time to talk of your personal journey. Please tell us from start to to me and Congratulations on your new appointment! finish. What an incredible honour! I am curious to know how your first few months working with Guerlain have L'Artisan is known for its materials and artistry and been? Has it been very different from your years not hype and marketing. As a perfumer, how do some working at a Fragrance & Flavour Houses like of the regulations on raw materials effect how you cre- Givaudan and Firmenich? ate a fragrance? Do you find you have more time for creation now? You told us you are devoted to the female world, yet most of your fragrances are non gender specific, Since you will be doing so much, what is your official please explain? title now?

Who is the woman you created Fleur de Liane for? You are now working with the Creative Director, Sylvaine Delacourte who has directed and overseen so What is she like? many fragrances for the House. How long does it take to develop a sympatico with someone who you work Which fragrance, besides your own, do you wish you together with? had created? What is like to be in the company of Jean-Paul Why is their a lack of great masculines in the contem- Guerlain? porary market? I recently smelled your new Guerlain Homme it is just How do you feel about the state of contemporary superb! You collaborated with Sylvaine Delacourte on 'commercial' fragrance? Will the rise of niche and bou- this but Did M. Guerlain work on this with you as tique fragrance force change to the landscape? well?

What do you think of the internet bloggers and the role Speaking of men’s scents, would you say the Guerlain of the "perfume critic" who do not declare their sub- customer of 1965 who wore Habit Rouge is the same jectivity? customer of today who could also wear Guerlain Homme or has the customer changed in your opinion? In what way do the same people help educate and champion fine fragrance? Speaking of classic Guerlain fragrances, which scent do you wish you had personally made for the House? What advice would you give new perfumers in terms of balancing their personal artistic integrity, especially In terms of development and creation, which side of if it doesn’t mesh with the client's desire for a com- the House do you get a kick out of? The more commercial hit? mercial side? Vintage? Fragrances Exclusives or Bespoke? Is their fragrance in your mind that you wrestle with, that you have not been able to create? You have already created beautiful and very elegant

65 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL fragrances for the House such as Iris Ganache and from there? Quand Vient La Pluie for the La Maison Fragrances Exclusives Divisions, very different styles from the What’s your favourite note to work with? more commercial appeal for the global market. How do you intend to approach this wider sector? Do you have a favourite fragrance from a company other than your own? Do you find that you should research absolutely everything about the House before you entered the position? What was the last scent you bought for yourself, or Or do you feel your creativity will add a new freshness were given as a gift? and you will learn along the way? What can we expect from Michael Storer Fragrances Was there any particular Guerlain feminine scents? in the future?

What legacy do want to contribute to the house? Interview with Perfumer Linda Kramer - Aug 23

Conversations - Michael Storer - Aug. 17 Can you tell us a little bit about how you came to be a Perfumer? Could you please tell us a bit about "the man behind the scents", including how you got started with fra- What aspects of the field are people unaware of? grance? How long does it take to develop a perfume? Now, your tagline for your scents is "niche fragrances designed for the individualist". Can you explain this How great a role do cultural changes play in the pop- idea to us? ularity or prevalence of particular scents? How does this dynamic inform your creations? Ok, back to your unisex fragrances - which of the three was the first to be developed? What was the inspira- Interviewing Romano Ricci - Perfumer - Aug. 25 tion for the scent? What notes does it contain, and how to they convey the image you were looking to create What are your influences as a designer? for the fragrance? How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What Who could ever ask for a more surprising and perfect are, in your opinion, their characteristic features? compliment? What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you Well, I guess it’s time for you to tell us about these had created? And why? three scents? How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fra- I know this almost sounds cruel Smile but do you have grance brands? a favourite fragrance out of the six? Or maybe one that you find yourself wearing the most? Do you have a wish for the future?

At the moment, your fragrances are available at your website. Can our International readers purchase them

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Conversations - Neil Morris - Aug. 28 Tell us, is there a trend in perfumery that you're excited about? This is my typical first question, what brought you to the art/craft/science of perfumery? That’s a fascinating point about the comparison between perfume and wine. I've noticed some per- What is it that you enjoy most about creating perfume houses creating 'harvest editions' or 'limited edi- fumes? tions' based on an especially good crop of mimosa in India (or insert any ingredient here) that year. This has Is there anything you dislike about creating perfumes? always made me think of wine and a good vs. bad year for the grape harvest. Given your expertise, are the Is there a part that is tedious? Harvest Editions truly superior/unique or a marketing ploy? I won't ask you to choose amongst your own perfumes, but what would you list as your favorite 3-5 perfumes? Onto a different topic…Do you read reviews by Or perhaps the perfumers / perfume houses that most Chandler Burr, Luca Turin, Tania Sanchez and the per- influenced you? fume bloggers?

Now, let’s talk about the niche & indie perfumers. What do you think of this relatively new phenomenon Which of this category, aside from yourself Wink, do of perfume reviewers? you think is creating some beautiful perfumes? Is there a trend in perfumery that disappoints you? So, this is something I’ve wanted to ask you, what's your take on the distinction between fragrances for So what's new for Neil Morris? Do you have some men and fragrances for women? Do you like to wear fragrances in the works that you'd like to tell us about? floral or not stereotypically masculine colognes yourself? An Interview with - François Demachy - Sept. 19

Let’s see… for you…what have been the most difficult How do you feel about being a Dior “nose”? scents/fragrances/notes to create? What are the main characteristics of Dior per- Have you had one or more perfumes that took ages to fumes...what makes them unique? perfect but ultimately worked? Have you ever persisted in implementing your own How long does it normally take you, from the idea all ideas at Dior…for a perfume you felt you absolutely the way through to a finished perfume? had to create?

Can you explain to our readers, (in lay person's terms) How do you (and the House) feel about the use of nat- how you go about creating a perfume? ural vs. synthetic ingredients - is there a difference in quality? Approximately how many different ingredients are needed? A primary ingredient he hasn’t yet mastered?

How many "tries/tweaks" does it take?

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And what is the phase of perfume design you like Interview Chanel Nose - Jacques Polge - Sept. 28 best? I believe that it takes a very sensitive, particular per- Are perfumers “the elite” of the beauty business? son to create such exquisite fragrances. So, who is Jacques Polge? Having created many perfumes, and major ones at that, is there a fragrance you still dream of capturing? Where did you grow up?

For a creator, what is a “provocative” fragrance? Did your early-childhood surroundings contribute in any way to your becoming one of the great noses of Should there be harmony between a fragrance and its our century? bottle? What are Beige’s notes? Do you have any advice about how to apply perfume and how best to store it? Was it created in the usual way, from top to bottom?

Which notes do you see as a major trend in 2009? What emotions do you hope this scent will trigger?

And the perfume of tomorrow? Did Mademoiselle Chanel have inspirational words that you drew from when creating a scent for this Among perfumers, who are your role models? extremely versatile color?

Which perfumes to you consider “key fragrances”? What are the characteristics of women who would wear Beige? What do you think about that? Smell of Success - Karyn Khoury - Oct. 17 Do you miss Grasse and your years of training and apprenticeship? What came next?

A perfume you would have loved to create? And, then you were promoted?

Your most beautiful fragrance experience? What does a fragrance evaluator do?

Do you sometimes wonder if your work takes more What kinds of things did you work on at Norda? out of you than it puts back in? How did you make the move to Estée Lauder? Advice to young, would-be perfumers? Should the opening be larger or smaller? From a philosophical point of view we asked, “nose, perfume creator, composer” - how would Demacy What was the meeting like? describe himself? What did you learn from Estée Lauder? And, on a final note, what’s your favorite smell?

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What are you working on now? Tell me what you love about fragrances, why is it important to all of us? Do you have any career advice? What are your favorite smells and which ones do you Thierry Wasser - Questions - Nov. 2008 dislike?

How does it feel to be the ‘nose’ of such a fabled What power do perfumes have power over people, do house of perfume and to inherit the mantle from Jean you think, if any? Paul? What is it about the fragrance industry that you find When was this fragrance launched? most disappointing?

In your profession what thrills you the most? I absolutely love “your look” on your marketing and PR materials, it is quite stunning. How did you come How do you visualize and conceptualize a perfume? up with this imagery?

You say it takes two to make a scent. How did that come about?

In any of your future fragrances will you have an How are you this morning? Arabic touch? How are you? Which is Guerlain’s main market for scents? When did this entire project begin for you? Which is your personal favourite? Hence the "essential oil" perfumes? What is the secret of Guerlain’s success? And how many years was the line "in the making"? Intrviewing - Janna Sheehan - Nov. 6 And you'd never had a go at creating scented products Could you please tell us a bit about your background before that? leading up to your career in perfumery? Janna - tell us a little more about you. For example, What inspired you to start a fragrance line? your scent Hail Merri (one of my faves) was said to have been inspired by the Indiana woods - is that What differentiates your fragrance from other fra- where you are from originally? grance lines in the niche market and makes them special? Are you the designer of the Trance Essence packaging? What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the Trance Essence line and what about I know you mentioned that Goldie Hawn bought that them do you think makes them register to so many scent for her daughter, Kate Hudson, yes? people? Where did all of these ideas for fragrance blends come

69 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill from? Perfumers - Jean Paul & Thierry Wasser - Dec 10

First of all, I Love Thievery Corporation - have you Monsieur Guerlain, there was talk back in 1999 of you sent them the scent yet? And what a great story about passing on the mantle of in-house perfumer at Whyte Rabitt, amazing how life and art intermingle Guerlain, but it didn’t happen. What makes it right (and aren't they really the same?) now, with Thierry?

So these personalities are the inspiration for the What part did you play in the appointment of Thierry? scents? But you were always going to go back to work for the Can you give me an example? family firm, weren’t you?

When can we expect this line to launch? So when did you two first meet?

Oh really? You had already been hired at this point, Thierry?

Tell me more! What will it smell like? So do you feel like you are going through a process together? Anything lined up that will be slightly darker, warmer than the current scents? This sourcing part of the job is new to you isn’t it?

I couldn't agree more, Janna. Well, we're getting to the Is it a dying art to see the fragrance development end of our conversation, hopefully only the first of through from the sourcing of materials to the creation many! Are you ready for the lightning round? of the juice?

Ok, here we go...Janna, are you a perfumer or an So you are obviously learning quite a lot, Thierry, even artist? though you have practised perfumery already for sometime? What's the last scented product you purchased? You obviously get on well. Do you think it is working What one fragrant note best represents you as you are because of your personalities? in this moment? So that’s what you have to pass on this passion? What was the first smell you remember falling in love with? Thierry, you are learning about the sourcing side of the business, but what have you learnt in terms of per- What perfume note have you not worked with yet that fumery from M Guerlain. You’ve talked about the you're longing to play with? ‘Guerlinade’, the Guerlain signature, have you cracked the code? What would you most like our readers to know about you and your artistry? And these are things that are new to you?

In a way Guerlain mentored you before even met M

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Guerlain? Which designers do you cooperate with and what would you like your customer to feel in your bou- So, M Guerlain, your grandfather was your mentor. tique? How did he pass things on to you? How much do you follow your contemporaries? In That formula is not touched now? your opinion, can your fragrances be referred to as modern? I know, M Guerlain, that you put a lot of emphasis on literature and music they are very important to you? How does Christmas smell for you and what did Ormonde Jayne prepare for their customers for holi- How have they influenced your work? days?

Are you looking to poetry and music and literature for Your favorite destinations? your inspiration, Thierry? Your favorite scents of nature? How will the next big perfume evolve collaboratvely? Favourite scent of nature is Belle de Nuit (not avail- Thierry, What would you like to pass on? able in a natural oil sadly - one day maybe?)

Do you appreciate that you are inspiring another gen- Which are your favorite fragrances by other design- eration, M Guerlain? ers?

Do you feel like you are teaching, M Guerlain, or is it Do you have a need to take a rest from all scents from a very natural process. time to time?

Interview with Linda Pilkington - Dec. 14 Do you wear your own perfumes (which one is your favorite)? First of all, we would like to find out more about your latest perfume for men, Zizan. Where did you find Do your loved ones share your passion for fragrances? inspiration for it? Interviewing Mandy Aftel - Dec. 23 Your first fragrance, Ormonde Woman, is based on a rare and unusual ingredient Black Hemlock. How did Is perfume just about smelling good? you discover it for yourself? What differences should a fragrance enthusiast accus- What, besides flower, do you try to reflect in a com- tomed to mainstream perfumes (i.e. not natural) expect position and how important is it for you to reflect the when they encounter natural perfumes for the first natural scent of a flower? time?

Could you tell us more on design of your bottles, Do you think the layering of notes is more distinct packages, boutiques, since everything seems very with natural perfumes than with synthetic ones? impressive? You give your perfumes no gender classifications.

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What is your opinion of gender classification in per- well for you? fumery? Are all perfumes unisex? In your Perfume Prive, I smell deep inedible animalic Is natural perfumery in the developed world counter accords which give it a very solid quality. Can you tell culture or a luxury niche for the wealthy elite? me about that one?

Is natural perfumery necessarily Esoteric? Is it real Ambergris?

I’m thinking of the association with alchemy you If alchemy and natural perfumery have a relationship make in your book and also that it seems to be often (as you describe in your book) and modern chemistry tied up with mysticism or different ways of looking at and synthetic based perfumes have relationship, what the world which are outside the conventional norm. is the difference in those two relationships?

Are you interested in mainstream perfumery, including 2009 the so-called niche perfumes? Interview - Dawn Hurwitz - Jan. 2009 If so what are your thoughts on the current state of play? Dawn, you are an Aromatherapist and a Perfumer, which came first and did the aromatherapy training Does it give more depth? help in any way with becoming a perfumer?

Is there a connection between natural perfumery and You were also an artist (painter) before you became aromatherapy? perfumer, tell us about this please... and do you still paint? Is this a good thing or a bad thing? What differentiates your fragrances from other niche Most perfumery materials are processed in some way fragrance lines? or another. Where do you draw the line between natural and non-natural? Tell us about the fragrances you’ve created, you have so many... So is it the source material which is important? Your newest collection is Limited Editions by Parfums Can you describe in general terms how you go about des Beaux Arts, please tell us about them. composing? I am very fascinated by the Les Rouges Collection: So you find an essence or a note which you like... and “PASSION, POWER, LUST, RAGE, ECSTASY... then what happens next? such are our associations with RED; our wildest emotions and greatest HEAT are bound to this primal So is it then about decorating that pairing? color. Inspired by the radiance and intensity of RED my Les Rouges Collection enters Perfection I notice that quite a few of your perfumes contain a Connoisseur Fragrances label” Tell us about these. Blood Orange note, something I have not often come across elsewhere. What is about this which works so As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration?

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There must have been a defining moment that led you Has this process been one of spiritual growth for you, to become a perfumer. How did that happen? along with the development of a commercial product?

Were you inspired by any one perfumer? In your newsletter, each Tarot card had a message, as well as the ingredients in that specific perfume. What was your favorite fragrance growing up? Through what process did the messages and ingredients come to you? What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever smelled? What message would you like our readers to take away regarding the Arcana Fragrance line? You also recently opened your new boutique; the Essence Studio in beautiful Boulder, Colorado, how is Interview with perfuemr Rodrigo Roux - Jan. 3 that? Thank you for joining us, Rodrigo. To learn more Is there anything else you would like our readers to about who you are today, tell us about your child- know about you or your perfumes that we have not hood? discussed? What are your most pervasive olfactive memories: Interview with Gail Adrian - January What was your mother’s scent? Gail, I want to thank you for taking the time to do this interview. When did you decide to become a perfumer?

Before we get into the area of fragrance, let's talk Where did you study? about the role of Tarot in your life. How did you come to work with the Tarot, and what place does it hold in Did you have a mentor? your life? What was your first fragrance as a nose? The long or short version? What raw materials do you enjoy working with? What do you hope to accomplish through your work with fragrance? What raw materials do you find the most challenging?

How did you become interested in developing a line Rodrigo, there were over 600 fragrances launched last based on the tool of Tarot? year thoughts?

What was the reasoning behind including the Minor There is much debate on the term ‘niche perfume’. Arcana and Court Cards in this line (along with the What does it mean to you? Does it have any meaning? powerful Major Arcana archetypes)? You have created Every scent for the designer John How do you choose which cards you will be working Varvatos. Please tell us about how your met and your with - or do they choose themselves? relationship.

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You have what I call a ‘dubious honor’; you are the What fragrance and perfumer influenced you the only Latin American perfumer who studied fine fra- most? grance through the industry and is not self taught. How do you feel about that? What is the fragrant thread that connects all your scents, no matter the price or the materials used? Now about you what music do you like to listen to? Favorite fine artists, how do they influence you? What was your last dream? When you need to escape where do you go? Please name your favorite Latino artists. What are your favorite hot spots in NY and Paris? If you were not a perfumer, what would you be doing? What’s your favorite adult beverage? Tequila and soda What are the most brilliant perfume(s) you have or vodka soda with lime? smelled? Your favorite music? Thoughts on the influence on blogging and perfumery? Do you have any phoebias?

Ok, the hot button of the decade ( IFRA ). If you could bottle a sight, a sound, a taste or an abstract idea, what would it be? A sneak ‘sniff’ on what you are working on. Is the ‘nose’ now more important than the brand? Interview with Perfumer - Yann Vasnier - Jan. 3 What distinguishes your ’scentsibilities’ from your Where did you grow up? Can you share with our read- colleagues? ers some stories from your childhood, and what you were like as a kid? Many perfumistos wring their hands at change, i.e. the discontinuation or reformulation of a vintage scent due Talk about your decision to become a perfumer? to regulations or other factors. Do you think one should disclose these changes? What are the challenges of two or more great noses ‘in the kitchen’ so to speak? How are you bridging 20th century perfumery with 21st century technology? You have collaborated with Rodrigo Flores-roux and most recently with Calice Becker on Lola… What are I am still looking into developments in new naturals the challenges of two or more great noses in the and new synthetic materials? kitchen so to speak? Raw materials vs. synthetics. Which are the most chal- What was it like to work with Kimora Lee Simmons lenging to work with why? who created Baby Phat?

Your proudest moment as a perfumer? Naturals are really challenging, for safety reason, for

74 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS stability in color, in odor, their quality, their price What do you think has to be done to further reinforce the idea of perfumery as art? Is the Art of perfumery, evolving or dying? On the topic of commercial perfumery, what do you What is your feeling about marketing fragrances to think is the greatest tragedy or problem that afflicts it? men and to women, or do you believe that most fragrances can be shared. For example our reviewer Mark What scents trigger your childhood memories? Behnke, a strapping married man is so confident in his masculinity he wears Feminite du Bois and your If you were to create something special (a perfume, a Mythique? photograph) for a person from history (your favourite artist, poet, author or anyone else) alive or deceased, Serge Lutens Interview - Jan. 5 who would it be?

In one of your interviews, you said, Morocco gave me Interview with Perfumer Sandrine Videault - Jan 25. the taste of perfume.” Can you please tell me more about your first experience there and what moved and The traditional perfumery with ethnographic refer- inspired you about Morocco so much? ences is almost an unexplored land for our contemporary "nose". How would you describe your olfactive What are some of the olfactive memories that are experiences during the creation of Manoumalia? indelibly linked for you with Morocco? How traditional perfumery and ethnographic experi- What, on the other hand, is the most challenging? ences can enrich in terms of composition or technique (manufacture) the modern perfumery? Do you already have a story in mind when embarking on creating your next scent? What are for you the "fragrant fingerprints" of New Caledonia? Or does it develop organically throughout the whole process? What is the relation between fragrance and man in the culture that inspired you? I recently saw photos of your beautiful garden in Morocco that were published in the Shiseido brochure How do they wear a scent? for Japan. Does it often provide you with inspiration? What is the relation between fragrance and the sacred If one would take a walk through your garden today, / profane world, are there any favorite scents or even what would one smell? forbidden scents?

Given your background as an artist and photographer, For somebody that has never smelled "fagraea how do you conceive of a synergy between perfume flower", what would be the closest description? and other fine arts? You speak in Manoumalia fragrance about a sincere When you think of smells, how do you visualize them and profound olfactive culture that has inspired you. If as colours, shapes, sounds etc? somebody lives in a big city like Paris or New York, how this culture can inspire and enrich?

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Are there any raw materials that inspire you right now, What led you to perfumery, especially natural per- that intrigue you or even resist you? fumery?

What are the most beautiful memories you keep from What about all those other perfumes in the ether that the meeting with Edmond Roudnitska, your master are crying out to be manifested onto the planet? perfumer? What is the oddest ingredient that you have used in Interview with Perfumer - Cécile Krakower - Jan. 27 perfumery?

Do you believe in fairy tales? As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration?

But is it really possible for a blonde heiress to trans- There must have been a defining moment that led you form her perfume into a success with the simple wave to become a perfumer. How did that happen? of her magic wand? How do you tie in your artwork with your fragrances? What was the inspiration behind Fairy Dust? Why do you think so many women and men are part Talk about the vision behind Fairy Dust. of this fragrance explosion, especially the natural trend? Do you know if Paris had any specific likes or dislikes that she wanted you to take note of as far as creating Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Q & A - Feb 3 this fragrance? Which fragrance in your extensive line are you most Would you consider Paris Hilton to be an inspirational proud of, and/or which would you most like to draw woman? attention to as possibly an overlooked gem?

What about the other notes found in Fairy Dust? Among perfume fans, you’re admired for your work with roses, spices and comfort scents. (I also like that Why is Fairy Dust the ideal fragrance for women of all your comfort scents aren’t super sweet bakery items.) ages? Do you feel you have a particular affinity for these?

Are there any plans of you and Paris Hilton collabo- I find your simpler scents layer quite nicely. Do you rating again in the future? ever layer scents, or recommend layering? Any sug- gestions? Interview with Lynn Ayre - Feb. 09 You also do dupes/interpretations of some classic Can you tell us briefly about yourself? scents, in addition to your own vintage-style creations. Was this driven by your own interest in vintage scent Could you please tell us a bit about your background styles, or customer demand? To you, what smells leading up to your career in natural perfumery? “vintage?”

Can you tell us about Natural Perfumery and how you Your website is really extensive some would say relate to it? intimidating, due to the sheer number of scents. If you

76 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS could ask the Posse Blog readership for input, what How is your work for Les Nez different than the one would you want to know? for Annick Goutal brand? Obviously Les Nez has much more limited distribution, while Goutal is Finally, can you tell me more about your “X” scent? owned by a large American group, yet your style is discernible in both. This brings me to the question of I found it really fascinating. On me it goes through how much is a perfumer you specifically - restrained phases of being something like a drugstore musk, only by a "brief"? its perfect, idealized version with alternating whiffs of what I’d describe as sweaty male armpit, only in a What is it?" really good, sexy way. How do you feel about a fragrance writer pondering What do you learn about perception and skin chem- and writing about associations to a perfume's name? istry from X? Is there so much thought given behind the onomastics Interview with Perfumer Isabelle Doyen - March 2 of perfumes or are we overanalysing?

Isabelle, you are the daughter of a meteorolist, who So how does the fragrance connect those aspects, spent time as a child in the South Pacific. How did you what's the story? childhood and past shape you into the perfumer that you are? Is it a means of therapy through the senses, through art? You have been composing fragrances for Annick Goutal for years. There is a very discernable aesthetic Do you perfumers have some secret library of a to the brand which I respect: gauzy, transparent and plethora of scent “snapshots”? graceful. How much of it is Goutal's vision and how much of it is yours? Do you find yourself loyal to the above axiom?

What do you respond to that? What does your teaching position entail and do you feel that young, aspiring perfumers have new things to I have also heard they’re meant to be layered (one on offer to the world of perfumery? top of the other). Is this true and would you recommend it or not? Surely there is no parthenogenesis in art, but do you ever feel that everything has been already done with so It is the same with every perfume we create: it may be many new perfumes out, so unless there is some tech- important to know that we never ask ourselves "Are nological innovation things are bound to repeat them- we in the right Goutal direction, would Annick create selves? this type of perfume? You're a mother of two (a boy and a girl) and I had fun On that point, how do you feel about the materials’ hearing Emilie say that iris fragrances smell "like restrictions as posed by IFRA guidelines and the EU grandmother" to her. Do you believe there are some law-frame? smells that are inherently/universally tied to specific images/impressions (ie. vanilla standing for comfort How can a skilled perfumer bypass such obstacles? or iris for melancholy) or is it only a factor of person-

77 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL al associations and memories? you proudest of, or most satisfied with?

What is your opinion about fragrance writing in the You’ve been known to design for other brands, like the press and on the Net, especially in relation to taking niche brand Parfums MDCI. Do you intend to keep perfumery as an art form and in shaping the doing that? niche/mainstream market? Tell us what you’re up to right now, in olfactory Is it flattering to be acknowledged/ frustrating to be terms? critiqued? How do you see the future of fragrance? And do you Iso E Super - Its Merits, Its Faults - March 6 personally have a specific hope for the future?

What the hell is Iso E Super? Interview with Natural Perfumer Dawn Hurwitz - March 20 Interview - Perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï - March 19 Dawn, you are an Aroma-therapist and a natural Patricia de Nicolaï, can you describe your first Perfumer, which came first and did the aromatherapy encounter with fragrance for us? training help in any way with becoming a perfumer?

What made you want to take over? ( Why not have both beauty and therapy if both are possible )? How may people visit the Osmotheque a year? You were also an artist (painter) before you became Who visits it? perfumer, tell us about this please and do you still paint? Do fragrance brands ever come to look for ideas for their future creations? What differentiates your fragrances from other niche fragrance lines? If you could name just five, what would you say are the most emblematic fragrances in the Osmotheque’s Tell us about the fragrances you’ve created, you have collection? Do you have a “pet perfume”? so many...

What other designers’ fragrances do you wish you had Your newest collection is Limited Editions by Parfums designed? des Beaux Arts, please tell us about them.

What influences you, as a designer? As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration?

Do you have favorite ingredients? There must have been a defining moment that led you to become a perfumer. How did that happen? What are the Nicolaï brand’s most successful fragrances? Were you inspired by any one perfumer?

On a more personal level, which of your creations are What was your favorite fragrance growing up?

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What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever munity who is so attached to classics of older times, smelled? some which are revered without the people in question even having the chance tosmell them as they truly You also recently opened your new boutique; the were at their prime?” Essence Studio in beautiful Boulder, Colorado, how is that? And what about the new trend of corporate blogs (I mention a few names)? Is Hermès thinking of launch- Is there anything else you would like our readers to ing one too? know about you or your perfumes that we have not discussed? So from all the experiences in your life, which one is the most precious which you would have loved to turn Interview with Jean Claude Elenna - March 28 into a perfume?

Being Greek I had always wanted to ask whether there Are you an optimist then? I tentatively ask. is some truth to that, much as it is for Bulgari for instance (whose grandfather was indeed Greek, immi- An Interview with Jean-Claude Elenna - March 29 grating to Italy). At any rate I perceive you as very Mediterranean-inspired. Do you agree?” Mr Ellena, please describe yourself in ten words or less. “Apart from the aesthetic choice is there also some practicality into opting for sparse formulae? If you could dine with two dinner guests, alive, deceased, historical or fictional who would they be One tends to rely much less on ready-made bases like and why. it was customary in the past, therefore there is better control of quality/supply of raw materials (and less Your first olfactive memory? variability on their standards), and also it gives the opportunity to start one’s own small niche house, like Your muse? you did with The Different Company. Would you agree?” I ask him Does your creativity come always from within YOU, or has a spirit outside yourself, greater than yourself “What would you have to say to this, Jean Claude, in ever involve itself in your work? relation to your scents created for Hermès, especially the latest Un Jardin après la Mousson, Hermessence Your favourite food? Osmanthe Yunnan, the exclusive Japan-only issue Eau de Ginza based on cherry blossom {Eau de Ginza was An artist whose work fascinates you? part of specific Hermès creations- including a silk scarf- especially designed to celebrate the Hermès Most memorable book? Boutique of Ginza re-opening in 2006} and the new Hermès Colognes?” Your birth sign?

Would you love the result in six months from now? The last dream you can remember?

How do you feel about the perfume-enthusiasts’ com- Hermès is one of the greatest brands of all time. Some

79 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL say you are one of the greatest perfumers of all time. and choice. Yet, it seems that the industry continues to Does one sacrifice a bit for the other? recreate the benchmark fragrances you mentioned… like carbon copies. Each Hermessence seems to be an etude of a single ingredient. For example Brin de Réglisse is an etude of Some have said that you foreshadowed the trend lavender. The Hermessence line seems built around towards 'unisex' fragrances with Bvlgari Eau the notion of reinventing an ingredient and presenting Parfumée au thé vert. What are your thoughts about it in a thought provoking interpretation. Which raw unisex fragrances in general? Are they an additional material has presented the most challenge and why? genre or just an excuse to cover the fact that there are so few new ideas for masculines? The great Edmond Roudnitska was a mentor to you. Would you share a personal story about him that You have composed a trio of new fragrances I pre- speaks to his true nature and to your friendship? viewed that will be released in May 2009. Please share with us what they are and their raison d’etre? Your favourite ingredients or raw materials? Your quote from the New York Times: The fragrance you dream of creating? Tell us more about fragrance as a lingua franca. Which of your other 5 senses (taste, sight, sound, touch, and intuition) has the greatest influence on your Making Scents of It - April 1 work? What makes a great perfumer? Many of your compositions share the quality of transparency. What does that quality mean to you? What Perfumers work in close partnership with the market- emotions does it evoke? Are there other works of art ing czars of the global beauty business, such as Estee in addition to perfume (e.g. paintings and music) that Lauder and Elizabeth? seem to share this quality & feeling? Interview with Keiko Mecheri - April 3 Five years ago, your name was known to a much smaller group of people, mostly in the industry. Today, As we remain, however, in the era of everyday life, with the impact of Chandler Burr's recent book, always, it took some time before we both were finally groups like Sniffapalooza and the blogosphere, you able to focus on the interview I thank her very much are famous. Did you ever think you would be known for taking the time to answer our questions. to such a wide circle of people and have groupies like a rock star, who follow your every creation? When were Les Parfums Keiko Mecheri founded and what was your vision for the brand at the time? Why is there a lack of great masculines being created in the past few years, although 78% of men wear fra- How would you define in your own words the Keiko grance? Mecheri style of perfumery?

Terre D' Hermes is an example of an outstanding mod- How would you define in your own words the Keiko ern masculine. Hundreds of new men’s fragrances are Mecheri style of perfumery? launched every year; men deserve quality fragrances

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People often note a parallelism between your per- to date, do you think? fumes and those of Serge Lutens, do you agree with that? Can you tell us a bit more about the new packaging for your fragrances? As an artistic director for the brand, how do you find inspiration? Do you think that your perfumes that bear, implicitly, more narrative titles such as Scarlette, Paname, Les What is your style of work? Are you more like Zazous, Loukhoum, Génie des Bois, are different on Frederic Malle, say, an editor, or more visionary, like the whole or were conceived differently than the ones Serge Lutens, or do you think that you have your own that are more avowedly based on an inspirational nat- style? ural-world raw material?

Is it fair to say that one of the ambitions of a line such How important is for you the selection of a perfume as Les Parfums Keiko Mecheri is to offer its own inter- name and how do you go about it? pretations of as large a range of real-world scents: a violet perfume, an amber perfume, an osmanthus per- Will your new website be an e-commerce site? fume etc? Any new creations or new artistic directions to look Is you ideal, in other words, to constitute an extensive forward to in 2009-2010? and comprehensive library of perfumes? Patricia Bilodeau - Perfumer - April 8 Do you think that the opposition between naturals and synthetics is a relevant one? When did your realize you wanted to be a parfumeur?

Do you have favorite aromas and/or aromachemicals? How has your career changed during your different positions at various firms? What are currently the bestsellers of the brand? What are your favorites? What are your favorite and least favorite scents, and why? Can you tell us a bit about the background history of Gourmandises on which you worked with perfumer What mistakes do people make when choosing per- Yann Vasnier? fume?

Was Mitsouko a distant inspiration? What mistakes do people make when wearing perfume? With what perfumers did you work on Loukhoum, its variants, and the new Crystal d'Ambre? And Scarlett? What have you learned most about scent in your Do you embrace more transparency regarding this career? type of information that connoisseurs usually appreciate or do you think perfume more generally needs What is your favorite place to be in NYC? mystery, universality? What is your favorite shop? What would be your most original or risk-taking work

81 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

What is your favorite drink? Do you have a wish for the future?

What is your favorite restaurant? Céline Ellena - An Interview - April 25

What is your favorite thing to do in NYC that you can What are your influences as a designer? do nowhere else? How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What Natural Perfumer Exhibits - April 19 are, in your opinion, their characteristic features?

What is natural perfume? What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you had created? And why? What's the difference in the way it smells? How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fra- Why does it cost so much? (Aftelier’s are $195 for .25 grance br oz.) Do you have a wish for the future? How long does the scent last? Christophe Laudamiel Talks - April 30 Has the natural perfume industry been growing? How many individual scents were created for the Is the making of natural perfumes more environmen- World Economic Forum? tally friendly than the making of synthetic fragrances? Can you briefly describe each of them and perhaps Interview - Stéphanie de Saint Aignan - April 22 some of the novel materials employed therein?

Stéphanie, tell us a little bit about yourself, about the Can you name a couple of the novel materials fragrances you’ve created? employed in the creation of these fragrances that are of special interest to you? What are your influences as a designer? The scents are described as “air sculpture” to your How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What thinking, how does this differ from a perfume? How are, in your opinion, their characteristic features? was your creative process different?

What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you What are the challenges of creating scents that don’t had created? And why? live in a bottle or on individuals?

How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fra- People form deep attachments to their favorite fragrance brands? grances, can you create the same kind of connections between a fragranced place and a person? On the other hand, to what extent can you stay rare and alternative? Can a fragrance create or facilitate a connection between a person and a place? Who’s right? Dior or Santa Maria Di Novella?

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How will perfumers’role change with these expres- cracked the code? sions of scent? And these are things that are new to you? "The real challenge is, how do you give a scent meaning? In a way Guerlain mentored you before even met M Guerlain? Interviewing Perfumer - Jean-Paul Guerlain - May 5 Would I be stupid enough not to listen? Not to absorb What makes it right now, with Thierry? that experience?

What part did you play in the appointment of Thierry? So, M Guerlain, your grandfather was your mentor. How did he pass things on to you? Firmenich offered you a job didn’t they in the 1950s? You worked with your grandfather on Ode didn’t you? But you were always going to go back to work for the family firm, weren’t you? That formula is not touched now?

So when did you two first meet? I know, M Guerlain, that you put a lot of emphasis on literature and music they are very important to you? You had already been hired at this point, Thierry? How have they influenced your work? So do you feel like you are going through a process together? Are you looking to poetry and music and literature for your inspiration, Thierry? This sourcing part of the job is new to you isn’t it? How will the next big perfume evolve collaboratively? Is it a dying art to see the fragrance development through from the sourcing of materials to the creation Thierry, What would you like to pass on? of the juice? Do you appreciate that you are inspiring another gen- So you are obviously learning quite a lot, Thierry, even eration, M Guerlain? though you have practised perfumery already for sometime? Do you feel like you are teaching, M Guerlain, or is it a very natural process? You obviously get on well. Do you think it is working because of your personalities? Interview with Jean-Claude Elenna - May 7

So that’s what you have to pass on this passion? Mr Ellena, please describe yourself in ten words or less? Thierry, you are learning about the sourcing side of the business, but what have you learnt in terms of per- If you could dine with two dinner guests, alive, fumery from M Guerlain. You’ve talked about the deceased, historical or fictional who would they be ‘Guerlinade’, the Guerlain signature, have you and why?

83 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Your first olfactive memory? Some have said that you foreshadowed the trend towards ‘unisex’ fragrances with Bvlgari Eau Your muse? Parfumée au thé vert. What are your thoughts about unisex fragrances in general? Are they an additional Does your creativity come always from within YOU, genre or just an excuse to cover the fact that there are or has a spirit outside yourself, greater than yourself so few new ideas for masculine? ever involve itself in your work? Hermès is one of the greatest brands of all time. Some Your favourite food? say you are one of the greatest perfumers of all time. Does one sacrifice a bit for the other? An artist whose work fascinates you? Which raw material has presented the most challenge Most memorable book? and why?

Your birth sign? What story are you telling with Vanille Galante? And how does the word "Galante" using the feminine The last dream you can remember? instead of the masculine relate to this story?

The great perfumer Edmond Roudnitska was a mentor What image or experience was your point of depar- to you. Would you share a personal story about him ture? that speaks to his true nature and to your friendship? I would love to know more about the salicylates in the Your favourite ingredients or raw materials? base of Vanille Galante; as far as I've been able to puz- zle it out, they don't seem to be aroma chemicals as The fragrance you dream of creating? much as structural elements. Is this correct? If so, how do they transform the other notes? Which of your other 5 senses (taste, sight, sound, touch, and intuition) has the greatest influence on your As a follow up, is it unusual for Hermès to create what work? some in the industry call ‘flankers’, or updates on a fragrance? Many of your compositions share the quality of transparency. What does that quality mean to you? You have composed a trio of new fragrances that I pre- viewed has just been released as of April 30, 2009. Five years ago, you were known to a very narrow Please share with us their raison d’etre? group, mostly in the industry. Today, with the impact of Chandler Burr's³ recent book you are famous. Did Questions & Answers with Ormande Jayne - May 22 you ever think you would be known to such a wide circle of people and have groupies like a rock star, who Hi Linda, great to meet you. Tell us a bit more about follow your every creation? your luxury perfume house, Ormonde Jayne how did it come into being? Why is there a lack of great masculine being created in the past few years, although 78% of men wear fra- What a glamorous beginning! We’re now imagining grance? you as a modern-day inhabitant of Patrick Süsskind’s

84 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS exotic world of Perfume (only, without murderous What is your favorite flower? intent, of course). What skills do you need to be a world-class perfumer? What fragrance(s) do you wear during Spring?

Is there still a cut-throat element of competition in Suggest a fragrance for our readers and your fans. your industry? An Interview with Laurie Erickson - June 1 How do you go about creating a new perfume does it start with a fantasy ‘end result’, or with a new ingredi- When did you become interested in perfume and what ent? was the first perfume you ever wore?

During what sounds like an incredibly stimulating life, So did Sonoma Scent Studio get started due to your you have lived in Argentina, Poland, Belgium, love of flowers and the desire to preserve their fra- Germany, Israel and South Africa, among other places grance can you tell us the story of what led you to start where have you felt most at home? your own perfumery?

Is there a scent that always transports you somewhere How do you feel about using natural versus synthetics special? in perfume? Is there really a difference between using organics and scents created in a laboratory? If you could live anywhere in the world, where would it be and why? Can you explain the difference between an Absolute and an Essential oil for our readers? Holiday in South of France at La Pinede PlageWhat’s your favourite holiday destination at the moment? Do you distill your own essences (tinctures), and could you briefly explain the process for our readers? Shopping in London Ormonde Jayne perfume boutique You have a prestigious boutique on Bond Street Where do you get your ideas and inspiration to create and are stocked in the oh-so-chic Middle Eastern a new fragrance? equivalent of Colette or X Corso Como in Dubai, Boutique 1: what are your favourite shops in London It sounds beautiful. Is Sonoma Scent Studio open for and Dubai? tours by appointment and do you see yourself conducting a perfume workshop for those who'd like to If you could travel in time, where would you go? learn more?

What do you never leave home without? What distinguishes Sonoma Scent Studio from other independent perfumeries? What’s the most romantic place you’ve ever been? Do you think you'll make a matching scented candle Interview with Joanne Bassett - June 1 for Fireside in the future?

As a perfumer, what is scented Spring for you? Which fragrance is your best seller and which one is your personal favorite? What is the perfume that best represents Spring?

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I'm curious; do fragrances have visual images and ments? sounds for you when you create a new one? For example, when I wear Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, I 'see' In this perfumery field, the scent will not be a massive it as an indigo perfume, and the music I associate with one and that is good, however don't you think that an it is Beethoven's Moonlight Sonata. What are your artist wishes to be recognised by a considerable audi- thoughts on this? ence, participating on the process of "art education"?

Do you have a favorite theme - like woods/ incense/ You owe an olfactory gallery and use a strong art fruits/ florals? approach, what is opinion about it?

Whom would you consider the greatest master per- Sure! And don't you feel some responsability in edu- fumer, and what is your Holy Grail fragrance? ( You cating noses, participating in directly of the "perfume can only choose one )! education of the masses"?

What's your # 1? Do you think is it a risk for the niche perfumery principles, for a future banalization? As a self-taught perfumer, what one piece of advice would you give to a student of perfume who wants to What is your opinion about this issue now and how do create their own fragrances? you envisage it?

Do you create bespoke (custom private blends) for What is to be radical in perfumery creation? your clients? Since there the artist is free to create, apart from each As a perfumer, what is scented Spring for you? perfumer style, is there, at least, some alignment or focus on each fragrance development in order to have What is the perfume that best represents Spring? a diverse and rich perfumes range?

What is your favorite flower? My direction for the perfumers was to show me their favorite ideas, something new, different, or some- What fragrance(s) do you wear during Spring? thing existing but with very high quality. But in the end, it was my job to select the fragrances I most liked. Interview with Perfumer - Thorsten Biehl - June 3 Of course, I try to select a variety of different directions, so not everything smells similar. What are the main advantages and disadvantages in this change? What is the sensuality you capture in your perfumery you judge being the "ideal sensuality scent" for indi- If we look at your role as the role of a art gallery cura- viduals? tor, how is the process of joining an incredible team and selecting these fragrances? The great writer E. H Gombrich in his classic book "The story of Art" confirms "There really is no such Since Biehl Parfumkunstwerke is a free space for fra- thing as Art. There are only artists", so the controver- grance artists, is your idea to join more revolutionary sial point is "finally, what is art in perfumery"? Is and radical fragrance artists, under some require- always perfumery an art? How do we measure the art

86 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS in perfumery and the artisanship value since "scent" is As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration? something so undefined and sensorial? What was your favorite fragrance growing up? Moreover what is art for someone, perhaps is not art for other one, for example, someone can see art in What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever Franz Marc but not in August Macke, the same may smelled? happen between perfumers and their perfumeworks? What power do fragrances have power over people, do Star Perfumer - Maurice Roucel, Symrise - June 6 you think, if any?

How did you start the path of your perfumery art and Why do you think so many women and men are part which were the creativity influences on your work of this fragrance explosion, especially the niche and (people, places, concepts and others)? natural trend?

During your initial perfumery learning do you have Meet Jean-Claude Elenna - June 10 some influences that collaborate to form you as a perfumer? If you could dine with two dinner guests, alive, deceased, historical or fictional who would they be How do you balance in your creative process the con- and why? cepts of having a light smelling skin but also vibrant and seductive? Your first olfactive memory?

What is opinion about? Your muse?

What is sensuality for you? Does your creativity come always from within you, or has a spirit outside yourself, greater than yourself ever And how it smells if we consider that there is a sensu- involve itself in your work? ality concept which is collective? Your favourite food? How do I define sensuality? An artist whose work fascinates you? Interview - Laura Stern - June 8 Most memorable book? Could you please tell us a bit about your background leading up to your career in perfumery? Your birth sign?

There must have been a defining moment that led you The last dream you can remember? to become a perfumer. How did that happen? The Friend? Can you tell us what Natural Perfumery means to you? The great perfumer Edmond Roudnitska was a mentor Tell us about some of your favorite fragrances you’ve to you. Would you share a personal story about him created? that speaks to his true nature and to your friendship?

87 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Your favourite ingredients or raw materials? ture?

The fragrance you dream of creating? I would love to know more about the salicylates in the base of Vanille Galante; as far as I've been able to puz- Which of your other 5 senses (taste, sight, sound, zle it out, they don't seem to be aroma chemicals as touch, and intuition) has the greatest influence on your much as structural elements. Is this correct? If so, work? how do they transform the other notes?

Many of your compositions share the quality of trans- You have composed a trio of new fragrances that has parency. What does that quality mean to you? just been released. Please share with us their raison d’etre? Did you ever think you would be known to such a wide circle of people and have groupies like a rock Nose of Guerlain - June 13 star, who follow your every creation? What inspired you to enter this field? Although 78% of men wear fragrance, why is there a lack of great masculine being created in the past few What’s the essence of Guerlain? years? What makes Guerlain so timeless? Some have said that you foreshadowed the trend towards ‘unisex’ fragrances with Bvlgari Eau Marketing perfumes has always been risky. how do Parfumée au thé vert. What are your thoughts about you manage? unisex fragrances in general? Are they an additional genre or just an excuse to cover the fact that there are What’s the one scent that has appealed across the so few new ideas for masculine? globe and why?

Hermès is one of the greatest brands of all time. Some Is there a panel that designs the brand? Or is it a one- say you are one of the greatest perfumers of all time. man show? Does one sacrifice a bit for the other? We need inspiration, intuition, feeling, convictions to Which raw material has presented the most challenge feel the right product. We are a small team which and why? decide what’s going to work and why and what’s not going to work and why not? Do you have any plans for a Hermessence with this raw material? Why has Guerlain only stuck to fragrances and make up? For your latest Hermessence Vanille Galante, I have a number of questions: What story are you telling with How do you select the fragrance? Vanille Galante? And how does the word "Galante" using the feminine instead of the masculine relate to How should people select a perfume? this story? Do fragrances relate to personality? What image or experience was your point of depar-

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There are smells one may like but may not be suitable What are your favorite smells? what then? Which fragrance do you wish you had created? Your personal choices? What power do perfumes have over people, do you What is it like to be the nose of such an exquisite think, if any? brand? How do you tie in your artwork with your fragrances? Why did you take such a long time to launch in India? I have to tell you, I am also totally smitten with Mandy Any special fragrances for India? Aftel and her fragrances. She is a goddess. (so are you) Has she influenced you in anyway? An Interview with Roxana Villa - June 14 Why do you think so many women and men are part Could you please tell us a bit about your background of this fragrance explosion, especially the niche and leading up to your career in perfumery? natural trend?

Can you tell us about Natural Perfumery? When I think of you, I believe that you have chosen a metaphysical path in perfumery as well as your every- What led you to perfumery, especially natural per- day life. Is this true? fumery? Is there anything else you would like our readers to What differentiates your fragrance from other natural know about you or your perfumes that we have not fragrance lines? discussed?

Tell us about the fragrances you’ve created? As a perfumer, what is scented Spring for you?

What is the oddest ingredient that you have used in What is the perfume that best represents Spring? perfumery? What is your favorite flower? As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration? What fragrance(s) do you wear during Spring? Where do you draw your inspiration? An Interview with Johann Maria Farina - June 18 There must have been a defining moment that led you to become a perfumer. How did that happen? Most fragrance pyramids tend towards fiction anyway, don’t they? Were you inspired by any one perfumer? Is there a principal difference then between Eau de What was your favorite fragrance growing up? Cologne and the earlier Eau Admirable?

What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever What is the relation between the firm of Jean Marie smelled? Farina in Paris which ultimately became part of Roger

89 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL et Gallet, who market an Eau de Cologne Extra Vieille What do your distribution channels look like? Jean Marie Farina to this day? How important are foreign markets? Considering Napoleon’s excessive use of perfume pretty much everybody must have supplied him? And do you have particularly strong markets? How about the US? Still, was not the Farina family and corporate identity shaped by the need to constantly defend yourself Did you ship to North America in colonial times? against innumerable plagiarizers and forgeries? Will you tell me how much cologne you produce? So were there actually any other genuine Farinas in the cologne business? Production has moved to the city perimeter.

Was Wilhelm Mülhens (the founder of what became How has buying essential oils changed through the 4711) the first person to falsely adopt the Farina years? name? That’s hard to find, though, isn’t it, at least the genuine I am wondering how the Farina and Mülhens families Mysore variety? interacted with each other socially? One of the biggest challenges for you must be the new The Farinas were prominent citizens and the Mülhens IRFA regulations. There are currently attempts to ban were becoming increasingly successful through the certain citrus oils. 19th century. Were they hostile or did they avoid one another, were there Romeo and Juliet stories of war- What have you done about that? Taken it out? ring clans? As the head of such a venerable house, what is your But your family was deeply involved in the develop- view of “modern” perfumery that is based on the use ment of German trademark legislation. of synthetics?

Is it true you were taken over by Roger et Gallet in Is there a perfume you particularly like? 1975? Interview - Perfumer - Bertrand Duchaufour - July 9 Your father was the first company director in the 20th century who bore the name Farina. How did that come How do I describe Bertrand? about? Bertrand, you have created some of the most memo- Is ownership still widely distributed among the family rable fragrances of the past decade, including today? Timbuktu and Dzongkha for L'Artisan Parfumeur. Are you going to collaborating with the Company's as its Was this move driven by a new vision for Farina sole perfumer going forward? Gegenüber? Will you be doing other projects as well?

90 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - The Questions

What was the inspiration for your latest L’Artisan What advice would you give new perfumers in terms Parfumeur creation Havana Vanille. Please tell us from of balancing their personal artistic integrity, especially start to finish. Everyone seems to believe it is about if it doesn’t mesh with the client's desire for a com- Cuba? Is it part of L’Artisan’s ‘travel’ series’? mercial hit?

L'Artisan is known for its materials and artistry and Is their fragrance in your mind that you wrestle with, not hype and marketing. As a perfumer, how do some that you have not been able to create? of the regulations on raw materials effect how you create a fragrance? Favorite Artists?

You told me once that you are devoted to the female What’s on your ipod these days? world, yet most of your fragrances are non gender specific, please explain? Where did you grow up?

Of all the fragrances you have created during your First memory of scent? career, which presented the greatest challenge in terms of composition? A Life Less Ordinary - Estee Lauder - July 17

Which fragrance, besides your own, do you wish you When did your interest in fragrance begin? had created? At what age were you allowed to start wearing make- You have traveled the globe, Is there a place you want up? to see and study? Do you ever experiment? How do you feel about the state of contemporary 'commercial' fragrance? What was your first favorite product?

Will the rise of niche and boutique fragrance force Where do you draw inspiration for the brand? change to the landscape? What upcoming trends do you foresee? How do you think bloggers and "perfume critics” have changed the fragrant landscape. There is a lot of trans- What’s the best beauty advice Estée passed down to parency, everything is in real time. In what way do the you? same people, few of them are perfumers, help or hurt fine fragrance? Bottle Designer - Pierre Dinand - July 18

There are about dozen great perfumers who have a cult How did your career start, how did you find this voca- following, and often overshadow the brand Bertrand tion? you’re a rock star, seriously… to thousands of perfumistos. How does that feel? That is what practically everyone calls you so how does it feel to be a living legend? How do you keep it real and be true to the core values of the brand? So tell us about the early days, you worked with some

91 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL of the biggest designers right from the start, didn’t gotten over the years. Givaudan has created iconic you? unforgettable fragrances as Thierry Mugler Angel, Robert Piguet Fracas, etc, what you think it essential You were one of the first to work with American for perfumers to create winning fragrances nowadays brands. How did that come about? which become modern classics for the present and the future? What about France in all that? By the way, do you think the IFRA regulations of A Visit with Linda Pilkington - July 21 some materials will impact on how perfumers create their fragrances, that is, their creativeness on perfume “What is your stand on the current situation with the making will be affected? In general, what you think restrictions in perfumery?” about this issue?

Interview with Perfumer - Oliver Gillotin - July 22 What are your deepest fragrant memories? Do you think they have influenced what you are today as a When did your love for perfumery begin? perfumer?

Where are your main sources of inspiration and/or Do you have a fragrance dream? Some raw material general influences to make fragrances? you would like to explore on a fragrance, some accord would you like to develop and/or some personal focus How is your style in perfumery, I mean, how you asso- on fragrance creation you envision from now to the ciate your creative and technical works in practical future and never had the opportunity to work on? way? Givaudan has some excellent initiatives in sustainabil- Do you think you have an “olfactive signature” on ity on raw materials through its Innovative Naturals your perfume creations? Something that is like a fin- Programme such as the sustainable sourcing of gerprint of Olivier Gillotin Venezuelan Tonka Beans and of the Laotian benzoin in Northern Laos and the preservation of sandalwood oil When you are creating a fragrance, what is the most from Western Australia. In general lines, how do you challenging issue you deal with in? contribute actively to these initiatives?

As a master perfumer and also a Vice President with Now a very special question: What is the scent that an outstanding background in one of the leading com- expresses yourself, your essence? panies in Flavors and Fragrances, what were the main initial achievements you had in your career you think Beautiful scented memory! And now, a classic ques- were important to establish you as a legendary per- tion for a perfume industry professional. How do you fumer and a renowned fragrance executive? envision the future of perfumery?

Making fragrances now is very different from how Olivier, to finalize this unforgettable interview, some was in the past mainly because there is few time to news about your next fragrance works you would like perfumers to perfect their creations against the strong to share with us? demand of the recent market. With hundreds of releases per year are on shelves, some of them are easily for-

92 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Exclusive Interview with Michel Roudnitska - July 24 Kurkdjian just did… the House of Roudnitska fragrances? You grew up the son of perfumers. As a child were you aware that your family was not like your friends? Are you working on a new parfum Can you share any details? And as a follow up, at what age did you know you wanted to create perfume? An Interview with Artist Mathilde Laurent - Aug. 5

I have read your father start training you in the Art of Mathilde Laurent, besides yourself, who would you perfume at age 7. How intensive was this training? have liked to be?

At what age did you create your first ‘perfume’ and Your first encounter with fragrance? what does it smell like? What’s the very first scent you ever wore? What was your first commercial perfume and what inspired its creation? Your favorite smell?

Please describe the home and gardens of your family? Your favorite flower?

What is your favorite of all your father’s perfumes? Your favorite fragrance components? Did you ever collaborate on a fragrance with you father? What fragrance by a different designer do you wish you had designed ? Which raw materials is your favorite to work with? Why? Which Cartier fragrance would you like to have designed? What is your view on ‘natural’ perfumery? What influences you as a designer? Which fragrance was the most difficult to create among your perfumes for Frederic Malle, Parfums Which perfumer(s) style do you admire? Delrae, Ellie D and Hors la Monde. I know they are collaborations, can you explain the process? An artist whose work fascinates you?

Please explain about the company Art et Parfum? Its A travel destination that you really enjoy ? origin and where it is today? Also about your mother? A fashion designer you particularly enjoy? What are your thoughts about the future of perfumery? What are the three most difficult issues? In which After custom-made perfumery, you designed Roadster, ways is the 21st century’s issues than from previous for men, and you have just unveiled a Fine Perfumery generations? Is there a crisis? collection, ‘Les Heures de Parfum’. Which one brings you the most creative enjoyment? Now this is very close to my heart… Would you ever consider starting your own perfume company, the way Which leads us to the next question: are the work

93 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL methods very different? sole perfumer going forward?

Mathilde Laurent, what is your own personal luxury? Will you be doing other projects as well?

Fabrice Penot - An Interview - August 7 What was the inspiration for your latest L’Artisan Parfumeur creation - Havana Vanille. Please tell us Fabrice, tell us a little bit about yourself and your from start to finish. Everyone seems to believe it is brand, Le Labo. What made you want to do it? about Cuba? Is it part of L’Artisan’s ‘travel’ series’?

What are your influences as a designer? You told me once that you are devoted to the female world, yet most of your fragrances are non gender spe- How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What cific, please explain? are, in your opinion, their characteristic features? Of all the fragrances you have created during your What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you career, which presented the greatest challenge in terms had created? And why? of composition?

How do you envisage the future of fragrances and fra- Which fragrance, besides your own, do you wish you grance brands? had created?

Do you have a wish for the future? You have traveled the globe, Is there a place you want to see and study? Anything else you’d like to add? How do you think bloggers and "perfume critics” have The Not So Glamorous World of Scent - Aug. 9 changed the fragrant landscape. There is a lot of transparency, everything is in real time. In what way do the The result? same people, few of them are perfumers, help or hurt fine fragrance? Let’s be honest, when was the last time you heard about the perfumer behind a successful fragrance? There are about dozen great perfumers who have a cult following, and often overshadow the brand Bertrand So when it came our turn to create our own fragrances, you’re a rock star, seriously… to thousands of per- we decided to turn the tables. Are approach is simple: fumistos. How does that feel? who are we to tell an artist what is interesting, relevant, or acceptable? How do you keep it real and be true to the core values of the brand? Inside the Creative Mind - Bertrand Duchaufour - Aug 28 What advice would you give new perfumers in terms of balancing their personal artistic integrity, especially Bertrand, you have created some of the most memo- if it doesn’t mesh with the client's desire for a com- rable fragrances of the past decade, including mercial hit? Timbuktu and Dzongkha for L'Artisan Parfumeur. Are you going to collaborating with the Company's as its Is their fragrance in your mind that you wrestle with,

94 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS that you have not been able to create? grances? And how is the process of creation according to this concept? Favorite Artists? You have developed exclusive fragrances for the Park What’s on your ipod these days? Hyatt Hotels of many cities. Does the location influence in the way you design them? Where did you grow up? I learned that the hotel’s motto is that Luxury is per- First memory of scent? sonal. Is this the reason why they looked for developing their own fragrances? Perfumer - My Gig - Sept. 1 I believe hotels want to give to their guests a What is your typical day like? unique and exclusive experience. Each branch is different; especially in the luxurious world, they have to How did you get where you are? offer a unique service to their guests. Perfume is surely part of this exclusive and unique experience. What do you like most about your job? I have already published about your work with the What don’t you like? Japanese brand Visvim. How did a French perfumer started to work with a Japanese designer? How much money do you make? What brought you two together to create a line of fra- Can you share your favorite fragrance and explain grances? how you created it? Was that a challenge to you? Interview With Perfumer Blaise Mautin - Sept. 1 Do you have a signature for your fragrances? Can Do you recall what was the first and most pleasant someone recognize your work or the perfume is one experience you had in your life with fragrances, hundred percent devoted to the client? scents, smells or even odors? Interviewing Pierre Guillaume - Sept. 9 How would it be possible, to capture the magic of such a moment and to make it last? How did Parfumerie Générale come about?

How did you start in the art of creating fragrances? What is your perfume motto? Most interviewers want to know what inspires or influences the work of a perfumer. I myself have Are all Parfumerie Générale scents created by you? already asked these questions more than once. Today I would like to explore a different angle: How does fra- Have you had any perfume mentors? grances influence you life? Or your way of relating to others? What are your favorite perfumes?

In your point of view, how would you describe fra- Which of your creations are your favorite?

95 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Does Parfumerie Générale plan to export the line to What influences you as a designer? the U.S.? How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What Does your shop have a sample program? are, in your opinion, their distinguishing characteristics? Parfumerie Générale perfumes have very unique names. How do you choose names for your creations? Do you think that being a woman influences the way you create… and if so, in what way? What piece of advice would you give to a perfume lover? What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you had created? And why? An Interview with Sarah Horowitz - Sept. 11 How do you envisage the future for fragrances? Do But how, exactly, does one become an expert in such a you have any hopes for the future? realm? Interview with a Perfumer: Kristen Michèle - Sept. 17 So what is your official title? I honestly have no idea what to call you? What inspires your fragrances?

Take me back to the beginning how did this all start for When creating custom scents, how are you able to cap- you? ture intangible things like emotions and memories in a bottle? Do you have to have formal training? What’s the strangest fragrance you’ve been asked to Where do you begin? create?

In essence, your education came in the form of every- We both talk a lot about scent and memory and you’ve one you met along the way, yeah? mentioned your love of perfume dates from childhood. What’s your favorite scent memory? You were fearless for someone who had just moved to L.A! How did you go about opening your business and what do you see as the challenges facing you in these uncer- What can you tell me about the companies you've tain times? done blending for? What are your favorite and least favorite aspects of Why? running your business?

Do you prefer working with people one on one, or What advice would you give to anyone contemplating working with a big company better... or is that com- becoming a perfumer? paring apples and oranges? Can you give me an idea of your creative process? How do the in-person experiences vary from the online version? Do you start with a concept or fragrance note in mind?

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What’s up next? Do you have a new fragrance in the What aspect of culture has had the most profound works? effect on your work?

When someone comes to you for a bespoke fragrance, Favorite food? how do you go about creating it for your client? How do you decide about the notes, how long does the Favorite artist? process take, and what’s the price range? Favorite place to vacation? Exclusive Interview with Ralf Schwieger - Sept. 17 If you could capture elements of nature in a fragrance Where were you born? what would they be?

What was your first olfactive memory? If you weren't a perfumer, you would be...?

At what age did you begin to study perfume and You have worked on both high end niche and main- where? stream fragrances. Is it difficult to switch 'hats'?

What was your first fragrance as a nose? As a perfumer at Mane, we realize your work is highly confidential. is there a glimpse into a fragrance you Do you believe that Lipstick Rose from the Editions are working on now? de Parfums Frederic Malle was a turning point in your career, as before that, your name was not known out- Guerlain’s Idylle Man - Sept. 28 side the industry. Since many believe perfumers have a cult following, have you noticed more interest in He smokes! Does it interfer with your memory? your work? “How do you say that?” Can you tell us about the collaboration between yourself and Fredric Malle? Interview with Fabrice Penot - Sept. 30

Which raw material has been the most problematic in What exactly is your role in the creation of perfume? creating a fragrance? Le Labo offers masculine, feminine and unisex scents. Which fragrance was the most challenging? What distinguishes each category?

What was its inspiration and please explain the devel- What role do you think scent plays in relationships? opment of its composition from concept to your final achievement? I’ve read that scent helps to solidify memory. I’m curious, do you have specific memories affiliated with Were you surprised that Jean-Claude Ellena, created specific scents? an interpretation of this scent and how does it compare and contrast with your original? Have you ever tried to capture specific memories with a scent? What perfume do you wish you had created?

97 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

What’s the idea behind creating exclusive scents for Which perfume was your first as ‘le nez’? different cities? In your collaborations, which fragrance was the most Any hints regarding the scent? challenging to create?

But I can’t know the smell of New York’s scent unless Why? I visit your store in New York? Which collaboration do you believe put you on the Perfume Talk with Yosh Han - Oct. 3 map as a famous and talented perfumer?

Do you have fragrance “cravings”? How much has the internet and bloggers and aficionados contributed to your fame? Or maybe you need a change in fragrance between burgers and fries, too!? Many of our readers consider you to be their favorite perfumer, are you aware that so many thousands of Do you think it is possible to make a perfume for both perfumistos follow your every accord? How do genders that will move them or touch both genders the ground yourself, knowing you are recognized by so same way? . many?

Are they thinking the same thing? What are the greatest challenges to the future of the Art of Perfumery? Do we have also a collective olfactory conscience? There is much buzz about IFRA….as an artist do these So, do you think there is a relation there or is t just rules restrict your creativity? Please explain. coincidence and my theory has no logic at all? Do you start a fragrance with its story or the raw mate- Were you meant to be a perfumer? What does it take rials? to be one? Do you believe in ‘masculines’, ‘feminines’ or in You describe in your site how is the process of creat- shared perfumes. Is there a need for all three? ing a personal perfume for a client. But how long does it take to design a personal fragrance? ( in terms of If you weren’t a perfumer, you would be? timing ). Do you keep records for future orders? Favorite artists? Exclusive Interview with Francis Kurkdjian - Oct. 5 Favorite fashion designer? Where did you grow up? Please describe your childhood… Where do you go to escape?

When did you realize you were destined to be a per- What music is on your ipod? fumer? What was your first olfactive memory? What was the last book you read?

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What is your greatest personal fear? ularity or prevalence of particular scents?

Please share your vision for your boutique in Paris. How does this dynamic inform your creations? Are you the first recognized nose to create a shop. What was the driving force behind this concept? Interview with - Raymond Matts - Oct. 10

What can we look forward from you in the near Raymond, we know that you are a very important part future? of the fragrance industry and have been for over 20 years. I am very curious to know if there was a turning Interview with - Natural Perfumer Persephenie - Oct. 7 point in your early career that made you gravitate towards the Fragrance Industry. What was that Persephenie, what led you to perfumery, especially moment and why? Was it a personal experience or a natural perfumery? personal experience with a fragrance that affected you? What differentiates your fragrances from other natural fragrance lines? When did you realize that you had a great sense of smell? Where will your fragrances be available at? Who did you train with? What power do fragrances have over people, do you think, if any? Was there anyone influential in your life that mentored you or assisted you in your path to be a fragrance Why do you think so many woman and men are part designer? of this fragrance explosion, especially the niche and natural trend? Do you have any favorite memories in working with any perfumers? You teach classes in perfumery, own a boutique, and are a Certified Aromatherapist and a perfumer. How Any funny or somber stories you can tell us? do you manage it all? I am aware that you have worked with a multitude of Tell us about your upcoming events for all the Los perfumers, do you have your favorites or do you work Angeles people that are interested. with any perfumer that the client wishes you to?

An Interview with Perfumer Linda Kramer - Oct. 9 You have worked with many houses such as Abercrombie and Fitch, Clinique and Aramis. In your Can you tell us a little bit about how you came to be a own personal creativity are there any fragrance that Perfumer? stands out for you and why?

What aspects of the field are people unaware of? What were the notes involved that you felt made the scent very individual? How long does it take to develop a perfume? You also have helped many well known perfumers How great a role do cultural changes play in the pop- create very well known perfumes. Does this encom-

99 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL pass what you do as Fragrance Architect? Isn't it a great responsibility to make perfumes under this historical brand name? What is a Fragrance Architect? You are working on new colognes: "Le Vetiver" and What do you think is lacking in the general fragrance "L'Eau Neuve". Could you give more information media that should be addressed? about those scents?

Are there any problem areas today they you think Why did you choose those themes: Vetiver and Citrus- could be improved upon in the fragrance industry or at Patchouli colognes? the sales counters, could you enlighten us a little? Is it homage to classic themes – or you feel that If I could give you a perfume magic wand and change there`re no perfect scents in those categories? What the style of perfumery, what direction would you like are their briefs given to perfumer? Timing of launch- it to go? es?

Talk to us about “olfactive poetry”. What does this You mentioned that another perfumer from Grasse, mean to you? Lucien Ferrero, instead of O. Giacobetti – has created the last fragrances. Would you please name some rea- If you had an opportunity to write for Sniffapalooza sons for that switch? Magazine would you? Could you give us more info about his perfumes made Interview with Perfumer - Annie Buzantian Oct. 13 for other brands?

What influences you as a designer? Are you going to re-launch some other Lubin's classic, like Gin-Fizz, Nuit de Longchamp, Fougère, Eva, How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What Fumée, etc.? Do you have all those archives with orig- are, in your opinion, their distinguishing characteris- inal formulas – or ready perfumes stock? Could you tics? describe your work with archives (should I say Lubin's Perfume Treasury?)? Any relations your House has Do you think that being a woman influences the way with Osmothèque Paris? you create… and if so, in what way? Is it possible to re-launch those 'Napoleonic' colognes What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you from 18-19 centuries and could they have the same had created? And why? success nowadays?

How do you envision the future for fragrances? Could you describe your vision or concept of Lubin House development (or should I say Evolution?) in Do you have any hopes for the future? next 3-5 years? Do you prefer re-launches or new scents? Do you prefer unknown beauty or commercial Interview with Perfumer - Roger Broudoux - Oct. 14 success?

How did the idea to revive The House of Lubin came About Lubin bottles. I've seen the new bottle models to you? and like them very much. But Lubin's bottle for Eva

100 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS made by Lalique is just marvelous – are you going to Interview with Rodrigo Flores Roux - Oct. 27 make luxury editions of Lubin again? You know, wear and love many of his fragrant cre- All the people have their dreams. What are the dreams ations, so now meet the perfumer, the man and his art. of Gilles Thevenin? Thank you for joining us, Rodrigo. To learn more Imagine yourself as a futurologist. How the Perfume about who you are today, tell us about your child- industry will look like in 2007? In ten years? 50 years? hood?

What are your 10 favourite perfumes The "Best of the What are your most pervasive olfactive memories? World" Perfumes? What was your mother’s scent? Interview - Chandler Burr - October 20 When did you decide to become a perfumer? Where Often a bystander to the mental perception of art, did you study? scent is (quite ironically) the most deeply corporeal and imaginative of all the senses. This most precise Did you have a mentor? ability permits us to detect the sharp hint of citrus, the questionably musty signature of a city street, or the What was your first fragrance as a nose? musk romanticism of an Oriental spice. What better medium to express the natural beauty of scent than What raw materials do you enjoy working with? through perfume? What raw materials do you find the most challenging? What is your favorite part of your work? Rodrigo, there were over 600 fragrances launched last How would you describe the appeal of perfume to an year… thoughts? individual unfamiliar with its intricacies? There is much debate on the term ‘niche perfume’. One of your books, The Emperor of Scent, discusses What does it mean to you? Does it have any meaning? Luca Turin’s vibration theory of olfaction. What inspired you to write about this subject? You have what I call a ‘dubious honor’; you are the only Latin American perfumer who studied fine fra- Your work as the New York Times’ perfume critic is grance through the industry and is not self taught. How very much a balance between creativity, precision, and do you feel about that? originality. Which do you feel is most important when creating and marketing a perfume? Now about you… what music do you like to listen to?

What do you feel is the most exciting implication that What was your last dream? your work may have? Please name your favorite Latino artists? What topics or ideas are you currently researching? If you were not a perfumer, what would you be doing?

101 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

What are the most brilliant perfume(s) you have Having worked with both independent perfumers like smelled? Divine, Keiko Mecheri, and Parfums DelRae and more mainstream companies like Avon and Baby Phat, Thoughts on the influence on blogging and per- can you compare and contrast your experiences. fumery?

Ok, the hot button of the decade….IFRA? You have collaborated with Rodrigo Flores-roux and most recently with Calice Becker on Lola… What are A sneak ‘sniff’ on what you are working on? the challenges of two or more great noses in the kitchen so to speak? Massimo Ferragamo - An Interview - Oct. 27 What was it like to work with Kimora Lee Simmons who created Baby Phat? When we asked Mr. Ferragamo if he was enjoying being part of the fragrance world? Your proudest moment as a perfumer?

We asked about the clearness, the clarity of the fra- What fragrance and perfumer influenced you the grance itself. We wondered if the absence of color was most? a conscious choice? What is the fragrant thread that connects all your Then we talked about the type of person who is a scents, no matter the price or the materials used? Ferragamo customer. "It's a man or woman who likes to be up to date but has a classic lifestyle and doesn't Favorite fine artists, how do they influence you? look for extreme trendy fashions, someone despite the ups and downs of fashion, she or he are always behav- When you need to escape where do you go ing in the same way? What are your favorite hot spots in NY and Paris? Coming back to the present, we asked Mr. Ferragamo why he thinks designer fragrances are so popular? What’s your favorite adult beverage? Tequila and soda or vodka soda with lime.? Interview with Perfumer Yann Vasnier - Oct. 28 Your favorite music? Where did you grow up? Can you share with our readers some stories from your childhood, and what you Do you have any phoebias? were like as a kid? Is the ‘nose’ now more important than the brand? Talk about your decision to become a perfumer? What distinguishes your ’scentsibilities’ from your You have collaborated with Rodrigo Flores-Roux and colleagues? most recently with Calice Becker on Lola… What are the challenges of two or more great noses ‘in the Many perfumistos wring their hands at change, i.e. the kitchen’ so to speak? discontinuation or reformulation of a vintage scent due to regulations or other factors…. Do you think one

102 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS should disclose these changes? How do you create many fragrances without duplica- tions? How are you bridging 20th century perfumery with 21st century technology? Is there fashion in fragrances and how is it created?

Raw materials vs. synthetics. Which are the most chal- How long did it take you to become a good perfumer? lenging to work with why? Is there something that can not be learned, a talent, What is your opinion of the ‘prophecy’ that within 10 maybe? years there will be a small death in perfumery, due to depleted resources, and IFRA regulation. Is the Art of Does your sense of smell decrease after too much perfumery, evolving or dying? work?

What is your feeling about marketing fragrances to Your three favourite ingredients? men and to women, or do you believe that most fragrances can be shared. For example our reviewer Mark Factors to keep in mind when selecting perfumes? Behnke, a strapping married man is so confident in his masculinity he wears Feminite du Bois and your How do you tell cheap perfume from quality fra- Mythique. grances?

Glamorous Inspirations - Nov. 14 Your top 3 fragrances?

What are the hurdles you face as a perfumer? How do What's the worst thing that can happen to a perfumer? you create ‘the smell'? Interview With Joao Carlos Basilio Da Silva - Nov. 15 What do you do when not creating a perfume? How was your previous experience in Perfumery busi- Any one smell you feel you should have created or ness before joining ABIHPEC? could have done better? How did you start as president of ABIHPEC? Your inspiration for ‘Glamour'? What is the role of ABIHPEC and how is its relation- Who, according to you, will choose “Glamour”? ship with the associated companies?

What is the secret of creating a unique and captivating Tell us how ABIHPEC started to perform its role in the fragrance? industry and reach what the association is today.

Do you need inspirations while creating a fragrance? Was the tax burden already a big challenge? What is your muse? Across the last years, how has the Brazilian consumer Do you have a favourite fragrance among those you reacted to the development of the perfumery market? have created? In 2009 consumer habits in perfumery were not affect-

103 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL ed, Brazilians continued to consumer even in the glob- rich kid playing with perfume. Almost 3 years later, al financial crisis and our market share numbers are your fragrances are outselling and outperforming so very relevant in global participation. Could you please many others... do you feel vindicated? comment about it? I noticed the last time we met you were drinking Exclusive Interview with Romano Ricci - Nov. 20 Veuve Clicqot champagne with ice… What’s with the ice? Rebonjour Romano…Where were you born and please share with us some memories of your child- Please share with us how you Lou Doillon, the daugh- hood? ter of actress and singer Jane Birkin, who is now the ‘muse’ of Calamity J? What is your first olfactive memory? No top notes…why? Growing up a Ricci, was there any pressure put on you to follow in your grandfather's footsteps? What is in store for 2010? At one time you suggested breaking into fashion design like your great grand- Where did you study perfumery? mother or will you continue on your path in perfumery? The burning question: why did you name the company Juliette has a Gun? An Interview with Dominique Durbana - Nov. 22

Why are your fragrances are called ‘episodes’? Dominique, I must tell you, you have a fascinating web site and blog. You have articles on all sorts of fas- Please talk about the evolution of the brand from its cinating subjects as well as carry many products-I love debut with Lady Vengeance to Calamity J)? your web site. Tell us about what you have created?

When you hired Francis Kurkdjian for Miss Charming Please talk to us about your work in olfactory and Lady Vengeance, explain the collaborative research? process. Was Francis a ‘gun’ for hire? Please tell us about olfactory psychology. I understand You were a race car driver and also someone who that this is also one a favourite topic? enjoys the night life. When did you say, “OK, now I am ready to be a serious perfumer”? Tell us about the natural scents, of which you are surrounded with; and in your words “you live Are you and Erwin Creed, (the seventh generation of immersed”? the House of CREED), still good friends? How did you meet? I loved your section and article on Ambergris and I understand you have Ambergris tincture available and Please share with us how you met Lou Doillon, the that they are samples available of raw ambergris? daughter of actress and singer Jane Birkin, who is your ‘muse’ for Calamity J? When you first launched This is all the more surprising that pheromone play a Lady Vengeance, (and I was there), I remember there primary role in the reproductive process of all living was a lot of blah blah blogging that you were just a species.

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This is what I call “three-dimensional perfumery”. How does your poetry link to your paintings and scents? I also loved the olfactory images from your “Scents of the Soul”. Tell us about that if you please? Who do you see wearing a couple of your key scents?

Please tell us your thoughts about the ethics and phi- What are some of the most significant scents either by losophy of the profession? other perfumers, or essential oils throughout history?

Tell us about some of your favorite fragrances you’ve Five Minutes with Fabrice Penot - Nov. 26 composed? What’s the philosophy behind your brand? As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration? Had you always had a fascination with perfume? What is the most amazing thing you have ever smelled? How should one know if a scent suits them?

Is there anything else you would like our readers to One won’t know, one will feel it. Spray the perfume on know about fragrances that we have not discussed? your skin, close your eyes and ask yourself: does this scent smell like a woman or man? What I am, or I Perfumer Stephane Humbert & the Art - Nov 22 want to be is this the message I want to send to others about me? What do you see when you smell your scents? Your thoughts on celebrity fragrances? How does the process of creation relate to painting? Do you have a specific fragrance memory that stands How is the art of creating perfume similar to the art of out in your mind? painting? Which fragrance do you wear or is there a scent you Do the colors of your scent relate to the colors you see always come back to? when you smell them? Which Le Labo creation are you particularly proud of? How do you choose the ingredients? Who, what or where inspires you? Do you know that colours you will see when you create a scent? What are you working on at the moment?

How do you create a scent based on that? Your ultimate getaway destination?

Your scents are linked to specific words; what made Favourite restaurant? you choose those words? Latest obsession? Explain your creative process step by step? Proudest career moment?

105 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Best piece of advice you’ve learnt so far Please try to describe what your vision for Wode Scent and Paint? Exclusive Interview with Geza Schoen - Nov. 30 Is perfumery an Art or an art? Hi Geza… my unexciting opening question: please tells us about your childhood and where you grew up? What is the difference between creating fragrances without a brief and on your own? What olfactive memory is the most powerful for you? Has it influenced your perfumery? What is the most challenging raw material for you work with, why? How important is blogging to shaping consumers' knowledge of perfumery? I have heard you are working on a new collection for an Indie brand, please share what you can? Describe your personality in less than 20 words? How to Sniff Out Fragrances - Dec. 1 What fragrance do you wish you created? What’s it like to possess that kind of sense? Do you prefer synthetic over natural ingredients? Isn’t that sort of like Michael Phelps telling me What do you think of the future of perfumery in the Olympic gold is just a few swim-team practices away? 21st century? A Green Interview - Jean Claude Elenna - Dec. 4 Why do you think this fragrance strikes such an accord with people? What does “a green scent” mean to you, Jean-Claude Ellena? What’s on your ipod? How does being surrounded by greenery inspire you? Which artists inspire you? What’s your favorite “green” ingredient? Also how have your travels effected you personally and your perfumery? Is there a “green thread” connecting the different fragrances in the Jardins d’Hermès collection? Each time you travel you bring back some memory of new sensual experiences, that is the most valuable, as Interview with - François-Raphaël Balestra - Dec. 6 it inspires me to create new perfumes?. Vous rêvez de créer un parfum? If you weren’t a perfumer what would you be? Connaissez-vous le langage du parfumeur? You have worked mostly with edgy companies, Diesel, FCUK, biehl parfumkunstwerke and Wode. Thierry Wasser - An Interview - Dec. 8 What attracts these companies to your style of perfumery? Thierry Wasser, besides yourself, who would you have liked to be?

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Your first encounter with fragrance? If you could bring anything back with you, what would that be? Your favorite fragrance components? Perfumer - David Apel - An Interview - Dec. 26 Your favorite smell? Where and when did the two of you meet and marry? Your favorite flower? Does Caroline work for a competitor? What fragrance by a different designer do you wish you had designed? Do you talk about work at home, or is that off limits?

Which Guerlain fragrance would you like to have Is there any sense of rivalry between you and do you designed? ever collaborate on projects?

What influences you as a designer? If perfumery is an art born of an inherent gift as many agree that it is do you think that your gift was always Which perfumer(s) style do you admire? there, just waiting to be tapped? Was there an “aha” moment? An artist whose work fascinates you? In your view, is perfumery more art or more science? A travel destination that you really enjoy ? When you set about your work, where do you look for A fashion designer you particularly enjoy ? inspiration?

Is it hard to follow in the footsteps of a whole genera- When creating a fragrance, what do you hope to tion of Guerlain perfumers? accomplish?

And do you think you’ll be able to bring something That said and given that client needs must be met new, a change of style, to Guerlain’s fragrances? what, in your personal view represents the true value of a fragrance…commercial success or the pure and How do you envisage the future for fragrances? absolute beauty of a perfume (knowing, of course, that the two are sometimes compatible and sometimes Your own little luxury? not)?

If it was possible to travel back in time to any particu- What do you most enjoy about your work? lar century and decade of your choice to meet your number one inspirational Perfumer? Among perfumers, past and present, whom do you admire and why? What specific questions would you want to ask? And which, in your view, are the greatest perfumes the If you could team up together in that time, who would classics of all time? you like to co-create a fragrance for? Given the number of fragrances that launch each year

107 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL and the short attention span of the consumer do you ciate your creative and technical works in practical think that any new fragrance has a chance of real way? longevity of becoming a forever classic like Shalimar or Chanel No 5? Do you think you have an “olfactive signature” on your perfume creations? What do you think sent the industry on this downward spiral, and what can be done to reverse the trend? Something that is like a fingerprint of Olivier Gillotin?

Is there a “wish fragrance” in your future; one you When you are creating a fragrance, what is the most dream of and hope to create? challenging issue you deal with in?

In the process of creating fragrances for fashion As a master perfumer and also a Vice President with designers Hugo Boss, Armani, Calvin Klein and Ralph an outstanding background in one of the leading com- Lauren are some you’ve worked with do you study the panies in Flavors and Fragrances, what were the main design aesthetic, or particular style, of the designer, initial achievements you had in your career you think and to what extent do the designers participate in the were important to establish you as a legendary per- actual creation of the fragrance? fumer and a renowned fragrance executive?

And speaking of fragrances you’ve created, we know Making fragrances now is very different from how that you’re a winner of both American and European was in the past mainly because there is few time to FiFi® Awards. Tell us about them perfumers to perfect their creations against the strong demand of the recent market. With hundreds of releas- We all have very distinct “scent memories”; aromas es per year are on shelves, some of them are easily for- that evoke vivid recollections of times, places or gotten over the years. Givaudan has created iconic events of the past. What are yours? unforgettable fragrances as Thierry Mugler Angel, Robert Piguet Fracas, etc, what you think it essential On another, more personal, note, we know that you for perfumers to create winning fragrances nowadays have two sons. Have either of them inherited your pas- which become modern classics for the present and the sion or shown any interest in fragrance? future?

And what’s your own favorite smell? By the way, do you think the IFRA regulations of some materials will impact on how perfumers create Can you tell us something about you that nobody their fragrances, that is, their creativeness on perfume knows? making will be affected?

Interview With Olivier Gillotin - Dec. 30 In general, what you think about this issue?

When did your love for perfumery begin? What are your deepest fragrant memories? Do you think they have influenced what you are today as a Where are your main sources of inspiration and/or perfumer? general influences to make fragrances? Do you have a fragrance dream? How is your style in perfumery, I mean, how you asso-

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Some raw material you would like to explore on a fra- An Interview with David Ruskin - Jan 8 grance, some accord would you like to develop and/or some personal focus on fragrance creation you envi- Hello David, tell us about yourself. sion from now to the future and never had the opportunity to work on? What would you create if you had no brief?

In general lines, how do you contribute actively to Are there any downsides of being a perfumer today? these initiatives? What are the fun parts? Now a very special question: What is the scent that expresses yourself, your essence? Are you looking forward to accepting briefs from a community of fragrance lovers from around the Beautiful scented memory! And now, a classic ques- world? tion for a perfume industry professional. How do you envision the future of perfumery? Pierre Guillaume: Chemistry and Alchemy - Jan. 12

2010 Pierre Guillaume: PARFUMERIE GENERALE = a play on my initials PG PIERRE GUILLAUME, and An Interview with Mike Parrott - Jan. 6 also because I am coming from the chemical industry, it was a twist about the idea of luxury? Mike, how did you first get into the perfume industry? Where did you grow up and what is your first olfactive What would you create if you had no brief or restric- memory? tions? First olfactive memory? What are the downsides of working in the industry today? What fragrance did you mother wear?

How do you feel about creating a fragrance? They're What did you do before you were a perfumer? a very discerning bunch! Why are your fragrances numbered? An Interview with Beverly Bayne - Jan. 6 Most of your fragrances evoke ideas and stories Eau Hello Beverley, how did you get into perfumery? de Circe, Querelle, Jardin de Kerylos, Aomassai, Musc Maori, Une Crime Exotique, just to name a few. What are the challenges? Which comes first the fragrance or the concept (a place, material, character or time)? If you had no brief, what type of fragrance would you create? What concentration of pure perfume is in your fragrances? Are there any fragrances you wish you had created. Which are eau? de parfums? How do you feel about creating a fragrance?

109 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Pierre, you number each of your fragrances on a scale What is next for you and for us? that measures “sillage”, i.e. Coze has a lasting number assigned to it of 5 on a scale of 1-5, please elaborate? An Interview with Mandy Aftel - Jan. 14

Can you explain the photo affinage process: how it is How has the human sense of smell evolved? done, how it?affects the behaviour of substances in perfumes, and to what extent it?contributes to your In what ways have fragrances and perfumes impacted perfumes' unique character? world history? How important were aromatics to the trade along the legendary Silk Road? Why are some of your fragrances differentiated by the name ‘Private Collection”? What makes smell such a powerful sense?

Pierre, you call yourself a chemist, but perfumery is Why? What are the advantages? much more than chemistry. How do you function as both a chemist and a perfumer? What are some of your favorite natural ingredients for perfumes, and why? Which of your six senses: touch, smell, taste, hearing, seeing, and intuition guides you? How do you go about creating a signature fragrance for a person? What sorts of questions do you ask when Pierre Guillaume: Seeing! Definitely. you begin?

Please explain for our readers the meaning of In your book, Essence and Alchemy: A Natural “Diolene” which is used in your flacons. History of Perfume, you write that “as potent as it can be, however, smell is the most neglected of our sens- If someone loves and is attracted to one of your fra- es.” grances, say Iris Oriental, does that tell you anything about their “chemistry”? Why is that?

All 20 of your children your perfumes are special, but Will that trend change in the future? is there one that is perhaps the most evocative of you and your company? Perfumer - François Demachy - An Interview - Feb. 1

How do you define a great fragrance. A fragrance you How do you feel about being a Dior “nose”? love? What are the main characteristics of Dior per- In an interview several years ago you said "I have just fumes...what makes them unique? one friend in the world of perfume, that’s Francis (Kurkdjian)". What perspectives do the two of you Have you ever persisted in implementing your own share today? ideas at Dior…for a perfume you felt you absolutely had to create? Will you expand into home fragrances? How do you (and the House) feel about the use of nat- Do you believe that fine fragrance is an art? ural vs. synthetic ingredients is there a difference in

110 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS quality? out of you than it puts back in?

A primary ingredient he hasn’t yet mastered? Advice to young, would-be perfumers?

In moving on to a discussion of perfumery itself, we From a philosophical point of view we asked, “nose, wondered Is creating a perfume like creating a work of perfume creator, composer” how would Demacy art? describe himself?

And what is the phase of perfume design you like And, on a final note, what’s your favorite smell? best? Interview - Perfumer - Isabelle Doyen - Feb. 7 Are perfumers “the elite” of the beauty business? What influences you as a designer? Having created many perfumes, and major ones at that, is there a fragrance you still dream of capturing? How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What are, in your opinion, their distinguishing characteris- Francois DemachyFor a creator, what is a “provoca- tics? tive” fragrance? Do you think that being a woman influences the way Should there be harmony between a fragrance and its you create… and if so, in what way? bottle? What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you Do you have any advice about how to apply perfume had created? and how best to store it? And why? Which notes do you see as a major trend in 2009? How do you envisage the future for fragrances? And the perfume of tomorrow? Do you have any hopes for the future? Among perfumers, who are your role models? An Interview with David Vaudd - Feb. 13 Which perfumes to you consider “key fragrances”? Why did you decide to create your own line in this cli- Francois DemachyIt’s been said that in order to create mate? a fragrance, one must have a woman in mind. What do you think about that? How long did it take for you to develop the collection?

Do you miss Grasse and your years of training and Why the Chypre? apprenticeship? What was your inspiration for the Vaudd Affair A perfume you would have loved to create? Trilogy?

Do you sometimes wonder if your work takes more

111 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

An Interview with Alec Lawless - Feb 23 “What is the difference between organic, botanical and natural perfumes?” What makes your “Essentially Me” perfumes distinct? DelRae Roth - an Interview - Feb. 28 So from the beginning of the use of synthetics in perfumery? A few key words that describe your personality?

So do you use the synthetic replacements? Aside from yourself, who would you have liked to be?

What about Ambergris? That can be found on the Your first encounter with fra-grance? beach. Your favorite smell? So what type of synthetics do you use and why? Your favorite fragrance components? The two main ideas which came into my mind when I smelled your perfumes were “soft” and “complex” Your favorite flower?

What about the IFRA regulations and the coming Your favorite drink? changes will they affect how you compose? A travel destination that you really enjoy ? Do you stick to those regulations? What influences you as a designer? Does it affect your work... does it make it more difficult? A fashion designer (or boutique) that you particularly appreciate? Your perfume Souk, which I really enjoyed, has oppo- ponax in it. An artist whose work fascinates you?

In the early part of the heart note there is a wonderful Which perfumer(s) style do you admire? accord of cedar and sandalwood. Often I smell cedar used to “pad out” a sandalwood note but here the cedar The fragrance you wish you had designed? seems to be the feature and the sandalwood is in support. It is a beautiful note can you tell me about it? How do you envisage the future for fragrances?

In your book, you mention Roudnitska, the legendary Do you have any hopes for the future? perfumer. Are there contemporary perfumers you admire? Your own little luxury ?

Green Goddess - Mandy Aftel - Feb. 26 Francis Kurdjian - An Interview - March 4

“Why is it you choose to work only with natural, We read that, for a festival in the fall of 2006, and for botanical or organic fragrances”? and Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes of the following two summers, you were called upon to fragrance the foun-

112 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - The Questions tains at Versailles how did that come about? time classics?

Along with your extraordinary work in olfactive per- Iindustry studies and numbers - indicate that the ranks formance art, we know that you’ve created fragrances of “lapsed fragrance users” are growing each year. for Lanvin, Gaultier, Narciso Rodriguez and Dior, What do you think is the reason and what can be done among others. Now that you have your own shop and to reverse this trend? your own fragrances, will you continue to create fragrances for others? Given the circumstances, what do you see as the major fragrance trends of the next few years? That said, what would be your most memorable fragrance experience? Pursuant to that, what do you see as the major contri- bution of The Fragrance Foundation to the success and When was it that you actually decided to become a future of the industry? perfumer - did your background or family history influence your career choice? And once you had On a personal business note,how many fragrances are decided to become a perfumer, where did you train? launching at Bergdorf and what has been the consumer response to your boutique there and the shop in Paris? From a philosophical point of view, how would you describe yourself…nose, perfume creator, composer? What are your plans for the future? And do you think you’ll expand distribution of your fragrances beyond And do you think that creating a perfume is like creat- Bergdorf’s and/or will you open a Francis Kurkdjian ing a piece of music, a sculpture or a painting? boutique in the U.S.?

In your work as a perfumer, what inspires you? And so when you were honored as a Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres by the French minister of cul- Is there a particular scent, or aroma, you dream of capture,what did that mean to you personally and to your turing in a perfume? family?

Is there an ingredient or raw material that eludes you An Interview with Andy Tauer - March 7 that you haven’t yet mastered? Are you a peace-nick? Please explain. When you create a fragrance, do you envision the bottle/package as well? Are you a poet? would you share a line (just one perhaps?) If you could create a fragrance for anyone in the world, who would that be…and why? I’ve been dying to use the words Pongee and Poncho in a sentence. would you write a sentence with these What’s your own favorite smell and why? words and make it relevant to you?

Among perfumers, do you have any role models and, Marie Petit - Naming Consultant - March 20 if so, who would they be? What should we call our latest fragrance? And what perfumes, in your mind, are the great, all

113 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

With the ever-increasing number of new fragrances, Do you work in a specific department if yes, is there a how do brands manage to find new names that are cre- mix of speciality staff? ative, attractive and… available? What other departments/professions do you work with What do you think about foreign brands that choose e.g. production, marketing, sales? French names for their creations? Do they sell better? Does it make customers think the brand is French? What made you choose your current job and why in the cosmetics industry? Can’t finding a name that works all over the world get tricky sometimes? What are the most exciting aspects of what you do?

Could you give us some examples of product names Are there any smells or scents you don’t like? that would have been ill-chosen for an international item, or even any slip-ups made by big brands? Is there anything you don’t really enjoy in your day-today work? In fragrance and cosmetics, are there products or ranges whose names change depending on the coun- Are there any specific skills that are essential to have try? in the job you do?

What about the other way around, do you know any Are you careful about what you eat to preserve your names that refer to different products in different sense of smell? countries? Could someone come into your job straight from Liza Zorn - An Interview - March 22 school?

As a perfumer, what is scented Spring for you? What skills/qualifications would they need?

What is the perfume that best represents Spring? Did you receive any special training either before or during your first year of working in your current role? What is your favorite flower? Did your previous job prepare you for this one? What fragrance(s) do you wear during Spring? Is there anything you wished you had studied or done Suggest a fragrance for our readers and your fans. differently when you were younger?

Meet Arthur Burnham - March 29 At school what did you think you would do for a living? For instance, did you envisage your sciences What is your job title and what are the main charac- being used in the cosmetics industry? teristics of your day-to-day work? What subjects are you glad you studied? What area of science ( if any ) do you use in your current job? Were there any that were not immediately obvious as useful to your career but now are proving helpful, e.g.

114 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS languages? How was class with master perfumer Isabelle Doyen? What was she like as a teacher? With your skills and qualifications, what do you hope to achieve next in your career? There are chemists, and there are alchemist which are you? Alexander Lee - A Perfume Student - March 30 How have other Arts influenced your art? Alex, what is it like to be an Asian -American perfume student in Paris? What is the difference between an aroma and a per- Please describe a day in the life of Alexander Lee and fume? a typical semester at the ISIPCA Life is a Perfume - JoAnne Bassett - April 13 When did you know you wanted to be a perfumer and where did you grow up? What was your first memory related to a scent?

So, tell us is true .. for fragrance inspiration from a Do you do dedicate a perfume to certain emotions or young age it was ‘cherchez la femme’? states of mind?

You were fascinated by fragrance prior to your formal Was there a prominent teacher leading you to a mas- education, can you please share with us what inspired tery? you to pursue a career in fragrance? Are there some exercises involved in keeping your You have a special place in your heart for Jean- Claude level of integrity? Ellena. Is he your role model? Can tell me little bit more about the process of work- What fragrance do you wish you created? ing "with the plant energy".

What are your favorite raw materials? How would you describe your "French gene"?

Have you created a fragrance yet? How does your Divine Collection satisfy all the senses? SyntheticDo you read blogs or go on forums?. To what extent do you research the market before According to NPD, among the best selling fragrances launching a new perfume or a collection? in the United States for 2009 are Coco Mademoiselle, Chanel No.5, Beautiful by Lauder, and What is wrong with the way perfumes are presented Cool Water- all can be bought just about anywhere. and sold to the public? Yet, many bloggers and perfumistos chase the obscure, unusual, the new, and the the hard to find. How much In the entire perfume industry, what percentage of per- influence do we really have in purchasing power in fumers is natural. Is there a movement or a trend that your opinion? will grow and eventually revolutionize the industry?

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The trend seems to be toward using less chemicals and The people side seems at least as important as the more natural essential oils in our scented products. ingredients themselves. Could you explain your con- According to the National Academy of Sciences; over nections with the local populations? 90% of chemicals used in fragrance today are synthetic and out of the 4,000+ chemicals used for fragrance, So what do the local populations stand to gain from per the FDA, 95% of these chemicals are derived from your work? petroleum. That is an alarming fact. I can't imagine what this is doing to our bodies. More cancer? More Do your clients and business partners go along with lung conditions? your methods?

Can you outline the difference in technologies used in Which ingredients inspire you the most? commercial perfumes and in your collection? Can you tell us a little more about Australian sandal- How long do you typically work on a perfume? wood: the main concept, what it brings in olfactory terms and how it is grown by TFS and Mount When you create a perfume, do you look more in the Romance? future or in the past? Which items on the market can we find your ‘eco- What specific journeys gave you memorable experi- friendly’, sustainable and fair products in? ences? What are your plans for the future? Can you please describe the role of California for your professional life as perfumer? Interview with Ayala Sender - April 27

Do you still learn? You also have perfumed tea with some of the fragrances? Tell us about that. Do you still get surprised by a combination of scents? Your course in Natural Perfumery sounds amazing, With spring comes unfortunately the season of aller- has that been successful? It looks very through and I gies. Can you recommend a quick aromatherapy rem- wished I lived closer to you as I would sign up imme- edy for our readers? diately but you do also offer a Correspondence Natural Perfumery Course, correct? Can you tell us about your workshops in aromatherapy? Your web site offers all sorts of ways to purchase fragrance, there are different types of sample packages Stéphane Piquart - Ingredient “Sourcer” - April 20 available as well as perfumed pendants, poison rings, roll ons, travel size perfumes, gift sets, bottles, Crème Stéphane Piquart, how would you define your profes- Parfum Silver Pendant and parfume Parfum Extrait, sion? how on earth do you keep up with it?

How did you get into it? Is there anything else you would like our readers to know about you or your fragrances that we have not So what do you actually do on a day-to-day basis? discussed?

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Can you tell us what Natural Perfumery means to you? You opened Good Judy in 2008, but how long had you been blending before that? What are the most popular fragrances out of your line? And what specifically attracted you to the art of mak- Were you ever inspired by any one perfumer? ing perfume?

What was your favorite fragrance growing up? One of your most intriguing lines for me is the Curio Shoppe, in which you've made scents in homage to What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever such mythic curiosities as Jacob's Ladder, jackalopes, smelled? and gazing mirrors. What's the draw of these and other legendary and often frightening objects? Which famous fragrance do you wish you had created? I've enjoyed reading the write-ups that accompany each of the curio scents, in which you quite literally Why do you think so many women and men are part take the reader on a tour of a dusty curiosity shop. of this fragrance explosion, especially the niche and Let's talk about the intersection between perfume and natural trend? creative writing. What do each lend to one another?

Please talk to us about your work in olfactory research. Since you opened Good Judy, you've offered a line of scents that pays homage to anime and manga genres Tell us about the natural scents, of which you are sur- and tropes from magical girls and bishounen to yaoi rounded with; and in your words “you live and yuri or manga featuring male and female couples, immersed”? respectively. How did this line suggest itself to you, and what smells good about these art forms? Please tell us your thoughts about the ethics and philosophy of the profession. A few years ago, you had a line of perfumes based on various "punk" genres: diesel, cyber, steam. What Tell us about some of your favorite fragrances you’ve became of this line, and will we see something like it composed? again?

As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration? You've taken inspiration from a number of countries, cultures, myths, and traditions for Good Judy's cata- What is the most amazing thing you have ever log. Can you talk a little about the process of research- smelled? ing and developing a scent from a culture or society that isn't your own, and the burdens that doing so Is there anything else you would like our readers to entails? know about fragrances that we have not discussed? In just two years, you've gone from exclusively blend- Interviewing Natural Perfumer Gary Lodato - May 3 ing perfumes to making candles, bath salts and lotions, and even diffuser charms. What prompted you to Good Judy is such a unique name for a perfumery. move into these areas? What's the story behind it?

117 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

L’Osmothèque - Preserving the Past - May 4 And how do you feel about the use of natural vs. synthetic ingredients and is there a difference in quality? What is this L’Osmothèque? Is there an ingredient that eludes you…that you What is its purpose? haven’t yet mastered?

Where is it going? Among perfumers, who are your role models?

Who comes to L’Osmothèque? That said, what advice would you give to would-be perfumers? Perfumer - Alexis Dadier - An Interview - May 3 And what do you see as the perfume of tomorrow? Speaking of the FiFi® award, what was your inspiration for A Travers Le Miroir Thierry Mugler? Returning to the subject of the FiFi® Award, we asked Dadier what is the importance of The Fragrance Can you share with us some of the other fragrances Foundation Perfume Extraordinaire Award? you’ve created? And what does winning the Perfume Extraordinaire For you, is creating a perfume similar to creating a Award of The Year mean to you and to Mane? work of art? And, on a final note, we wondered what’s your Given that thought, which perfumes, in your mind, are favorite smell? the great, all time classics or works of art? Interview with Tanja Bochhnig - May 16 A perfume you would have loved to create? I am curious to know if there is something special And is there a particular scent, or aroma, you would about the month of April, because to me it is a very love to capture in a perfume? special month. My son was born in April because I wished him to. It is the most beautiful month in Israel, And what would be your most memorable fragrance where my son was born. It is also the month of Aries, experience? which was a perfect combination with Leo. So, is there any story behind the name? From a philosophical point of view, how would you describe yourself…nose, perfumer, composer? Where does your interest in fragrances come from?

Do you think perfumers are the "elite" of the fragrance Childhood memories are so nice! Especially when we business? remember them vividly with the scents related to them! Do you have a special one? Turning to the art, skill and science of perfumery, we asked, how does chemistry affect your art and how I see that your parents had a lot to do with it than? important is formal chemistry training in the overall education of a perfumer? I remember my mom had Joy in her closet. I also remember Fidji and Opium. Do you remember your

118 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS first fragrance? previous experience, say in aromatherapy or other related business that deals with scents, or are they Really? completely untrained with little odor recognition and simply like the idea from an intellectual standpoint? That is so interesting. Can you give my readers one example? It has often been said that not everyone can become a ‘nose’, with the capability of discerning and identify- How exactly did you get involved with Natural ing thousands of different scent molecules. What Perfumery? stages of development do you think your perfume training gives a student in developing this ability, and And how did you develop your skills from a personal what is your opinion about this somewhat limiting experience and need? statement based on your experience working with developing a student’s abilities? What is the idea behind your brand? I’ve often felt that it takes time and certainly hard You also have a special like related to Yoga right? Can work to establish a vocabulary that intellectually you tell me a little bit about it? describes the myriad senses, thoughts and feelings that come into play when working with aromatics. What We all know that you have a new born in your life. advice can you give to prospective students or even How does motherhood affect the life of a perfumer? the layperson who wants to embark on understanding odors and articulate them well? Interviewing Justin Crane - May 18 Smell consciously, and study and do. The first step You’ve been quietly pursuing your aromatic art for to building a full aromatic vocabulary is to train one- some time, what or who have been your greatest influ- self to smell consciously, every day, and write down ences and why? whatever thoughts come through, no matter how strange they may be. Not everyone does this conscious If you could pick the 10 most important aromatic smelling thing, but as a perfumer, I feel it’s extremely ingredients, what would they be and why? important to mentally acknowledge every scent and think about how the scent makes me feel. How much do you rely on actual textbooks and how much of your teaching comes from personal experi- Do you feel that you are somewhat limited in an online mentation? If you could split these into percentages, course study and that some aspects might be better how would this be reflected? understood in a classroom setting, and how do you overcome any barriers this might present? Those who practice natural perfumery are beginning to shy away from traditional perfumery training. Is it Sissel Tolaas Tells the Rubes - May 25 because so much emphasis is put on synthetics, and what are the factors that have spurred those working Tolaas is in town “for only a few days, collecting with naturals to seek or create perfumery training that scents that represent the neighborhoods of Kansas City focuses exclusively on natural ingredients? and sending them back to her lab in Berlin for analysis.” To what end? To “create a smell tour of our city.” Do you find that most of your students come with a

119 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Simple minds might ask, can’t one create a smell How do you feel about the state of contemporary tour just by walking around with a notebook? 'commercial' fragrance? Will the rise of niche and boutique fragrance force change to the landscape? What does the “analysis” in her “lab” add? What do you think of the internet bloggers and the role How does being obvious make the Folgers plant smell of the "perfume critic" who do not declare their sub- nonrepresentive of Kansas City? jectivity? In what way do the same people help educate and champion fine fragrance? But if local residents don’t know the smell, how rep- resentative of their town can it be? What advice would you give new perfumers in terms of balancing their personal artistic integrity, especially So what part of Hidden Kansas City does Tolaas if it doesn’t mesh with the client's desire for a com- uncover? mercial hit.

Interviewing Bertrand Duchaufour - July 7 Is their fragrance in your mind that you wrestle with, that you have not been able to create. You have created some of the most memorable fragrances of the past decade, including Timbuktu and You are in the process of creating a new fragrance for Dzongkha for L'Artisan Parfumeur. Are you going to L’Artisan. Can you please give us a little ‘hint’ of what collaborating with the Company's as its sole perfumer to expect later this year? going forward? Will you be doing other projects as well? Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian & Lights - July 12

L'Artisan is known for its materials and artistry and Like an event, a fragrance is ephemeral yet leaves not hype and marketing. As a perfumer, how do some behind a lingering memory. How do you create a of the regulations on raw materials effect how you cre- scent that will be remembered? ate a fragrance? You’ve traveled the world seeking inspiration but still You told us you are devoted to the female world, yet consider Paris to be your home and heart. What are most of your fragrances are non gender specific, your favorite places in the City of Light to dine, enter- please explain? tain and enjoy?

Who is the woman you created Fleur de Liane for? How would you describe your entertaining style?

What is she like? What is your signature drink?

Which fragrance, besides your own, do you wish you What is your signature gift? had created? Tell us about an incredible event that you have attend- Why is their a lack of great masculines in the contem- ed recently? porary market? You are hosting a fantasy dinner party. Who are your guests and what do you serve them?

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Perfumer’s Decrypt - Marie Wright - IFF - July 18 line?

Want a bottle of perfume fragrance with a virgin? Are there any other products in the By Carina line?

How can I become a perfumer? What is your advice for other young adults that want to start their own beauty line?’ The United States less than five hundred perfumers. How do you enter this industry? What are your plans for your future?

Professional than the work of other chemicals to be I have to ask a simple question does anyone actually more close to life, right? purchase a product from this kid?

Your professional field strengths? Does she really know what she is doing?

What a strange habit it? Interviewing Françoise Donche - June 25

Odor with our psychological matter? You are often called Givenchy’s “olfactologist” or “fragrance expert.” You prepared the strangest perfume or the smell that? Can you tell us what that actually entails? Is Virgin’s navel has a special fragrance? Are you a kind of ‘olfactory orchestra conductor’? Colleagues argue that you have been “climax” in the end that is the taste? The ‘Récoltes’ (Harvests) collection, which now comes back to Givenchy every year, was your idea. What is a good way to give you creative inspiration? What is that collection’s position in the current mar- Q & A with Perfumer Carina Chazanas - July 22 ket?

How did you get started creating your own line? And how are the ingredients that go into the different fragrances selected? What was the inspiration behind making fragrances? Do you have any anecdotes, or special memories about How did you select each scent for your fragrance? the actual harvests?

How did you come up with each of the fragrance Is it difficult for the perfumers to communicate with names? the house’s other departments when they’re talking about perfume? Which scent is your favorite? Do they use different vocabulary? What makes By Carina scents special? Is the perfumers’ olfactory and technical knowledge What was the process of developing your fragrance an obstacle?

121 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

How do you help them understand each other? What led you to this occupation, and where and how did you start? Do you take part in consumer focus groups testing new fragrances? Well, that was a pretty good way to begin ! So, can you tell us one of the best memories you have of your If so, how do you reconcile innovation and surprise, career, a particular moment of your career which car- while at the same time giving consumers what they ried with it tremendous portent or a wonderful memo- want? ry for you?

Do you ever go to sales points in order to meet the On an entirely different subject, what are your favorite sales team? raw materials?

Or even customers? Interesting… So the things that you developed for BBW then had an impact on fine fragrance? If so, does that provide feedback for creating futures fragrances? And are there those raw materials with which you don’t like to work? Which essences would you say are most characteristic of Givenchy’s olfactory heritage? Are there some notes or accords that, for you, equal the idea of seduction more than others? What about you personally, do you have any ingredients you’re addicted to? Ann, on an entirely different topic, how do you see the future of fragrances? How do you see fragrances in the future? Do you have any specific hopes for the future? What are your hopes for the future, and what are your concerns? Let’s wind up with a personal question: what perfume(s) do you yourself like to wear? So what do you think would be a first step toward a positive future for fragrance? Perfumery Professions - Ann Gottlieb - Aug. 10 Do you have any crazy idea of how to communicate Of the many fragrances you have created over the fragrance to people something that you would love to years, of which are you most proud? see happen?

Well, that’s a credit to your ability to put yourself in And to conclude, what fragrance or fragrances do you other people’s shoes… So, how would you define your usually wear? occupation? What do you feel it is that you do? Or, when you are at a cocktail party and someone asks you Like what? “What do you do?” … what do you say? Questions & Answers with Jacques Polge - Sept. 2 What would you say is the most thrilling aspect of your job? A Chanel executive once told me that of all the fragrances you've created at Chanel, Egoïste is your

122 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS favorite. Is that true? Aroma M perfume is now sold worldwide. Have you noticed differences in tastes in perfume in the United How did the adventure start? States as opposed to in Japan or China? If so, do you have any theories about why? It still wasn't called Egoïste? You are very connected to Japanese culture. If you You once said fragrances were divided into two could visit any period in Japan’s history, which would groups, those for cleanliness and those for sex. Where it be, and why? does Egoïste lie? Thierry de Baschmakoff, Designer of Bottles - Sept 20 Speaking of America, you've said Americans have changed the fragrance business, making it more sani- Thierry, tell us a little bit about yourself, and about the tized? fragrance bottles you have designed?

What is the inspiration behind Bleu, your new men's Who are your influences as a creator? fragrance, which has just hit stores? Where do you find new ideas? In the decades you've been a perfumer, what changes have you noticed? Which of the fragrance bottles you have designed are you proudest of? Maria McElroy: Interview With a Perfumer - Sept. 9 And which one was the hardest to create? You have an MFA in painting. How did your journey from painting to perfumery come about? How exactly do brands go about choosing a bottle designer? Your perfumes have Japanese themes and the packaging is beautiful. How did you develop your line of per- Do you compete with other designers the way fra- fumes, and why the emphasis on Japan? grance designers do?

How did you develop your business, and what are the Or do you have an exclusive relationship with certain challenges facing you as your business expands? brands?

What are your favorite and least favorite aspects of A few years ago, in reference to alternative brands, running your business? you often used to hear, “It’s not the bottle, it’s the fragrance… ”. Today it seems, au contraire, like alterna- Geisha Pink had an event on QVC earlier this year, tive brands are focusing on the bottle more and more which must have been exciting, as aroma M was the before they launch anything. As a designer, but also as first niche perfume house sold on QVC. How did the the co-creator of the alternative brand The Different partnership with QVC come about, and do you envi- Company, how do you feel about that? sion partnering with QVC or a similar site again? Do ecological considerations have greater weight now Do you have any new fragrances or products planned? in clients’ choice of materials for new bottles?

123 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

What other designer’s fragrance bottle do you wish thetic sources? you had created? You have written: "New extraction and olfactory pho- What unusual new ideas for fragrance bottles (shape, tography methods allowing for living matter to be texture, function, etc.) do you think we’ll see in the analysed and captured now give a say to common or near future? exotic plants, roots, flowers, wood or simply fruit, until now totally mute to the perfumer." Are these Interview with Pierre Guillaume - Sept. 26 methods able to derive extracts from lilies of the valley and gardenias, flowers that up until now have been Any new perfume from Pierre Guillaume is always recreated primarily from synthetic materials? regarded with great anticipation, but in this case because there is also an entirely new range with a new Your new perfumes feature many unique and unfamil- name, the anticipation is heightened by a bit of mys- iar plant materials, for instance pear, mango bark, tery. Why did you decide to create a new brand in olive twigs, African red orris (Kegelia Africana) and addition to your already successful Parfumerie Zebrano wood. Are these examples of materials Generale? derived from new extraction methods?

In what way will they differ? Will you also continue to create new Parfumerie Generale perfumes as well Huitieme Art perfumes and Did you collaborate with the perfume critic Octavian continue to grow both brands simultaneously? Coifan in the concept of perfume being an Eighth Art? Roja Dove The Professor of Perfume - Sept. 29 Did Octavian also collaborate with you in other aspects of these perfumes beyond the overall concept? Would you say there's a difference between a British and a continental European perfumer? In neurophysiology, "cyclopean perception" is a term used to describe how the brain integrates two separate I'm aware of the releases of Buzz and Diaghilev. flat images, one from each eye, in order to produce a What's next for Roja Dove Perfumes? single image with three dimensional depth. Your new Cyclops bottles seem to promise a similar integration. I ask him if the new scents have been given names yet? Can you talk about two perspectives in perfume making that are integrated to produce depth in your new Interview with Kristen Dunagan - Oct. 1 perfumes? We both talk a lot about scent and memory and you’ve Did you coin the term 'phyto-perfumery'? mentioned your love of perfume dates from childhood. What’s your favorite scent memory? Why did you decide to break free from the traditional olfactory pyramid in these new perfumes? How did you go about opening your business and what do you see as the challenges facing you in these uncer- Please describe the difference in methods and in tain times? results in creating odorant molecules with the biotech- nology of phytoperfumery that derives from natural What are your favorite and least favorite aspects of plant materials as opposed to using completely syn- running your business?

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What advice would you give to anyone contemplating How much latitude are you given in each fragrance's becoming a perfumer? creation?

I love the three fragrances in your line: Notes Fraîches, Which comes first in developing a perfume… the Fleurs Blanches, and Épices Orientale. They are very sense of location , of place, or an idea? different from one another, which gives your customers a nice variety to choose from. Can you give me Will that be your next perfume? an idea of your creative process? L'Artisan's Limited Editon Special Harvest series last Do you start with a concept or fragrance note in mind? fragrance was Iris Pallida in 2007. Any plans to create a new one? What’s up next? If so what would you choose as the soliflore? Do you have a new fragrance in the works? How much time do you spend traveling? When someone comes to you for a bespoke fragrance, how do you go about creating it for your client? How What is your greatest passion outside of perfumery? do you decide about the notes, how long does the process take, and what’s the price range? When I last saw you, you told me that and that you would return to Africa. Have you? Live from N.Y. its Bertrand Duchaufour - Oct 10 In our last interview you stated emphatically that the Rebonjour Bertrand! Wow this is some set-up. Please blogging community must be responsible for the tell me the story behind creating "Traversee du veracity of their information? It was quite a controver- Bosphore"? sial a proclamation among some bloggers. Have you changed your opinion? When we last met, at the launch of "Fleure De Liane", you had just joined L'Artisan Parfumeur in a new role, You are the nose behind Frapin's new fragrance . What a different relationship which I called a "Perfumer-in- is the story behind it? Residence". Can you please explain the exact nature of how you work with the Company? What do you drink?

You have had a very active role in reviving Whiskey. I love whiskey. Penhaligon's. What is your charge when you reformu- late or create an new Penhaligon's scent? So many perfume lovers feel a strong connection to your fragrances. In your opinion, with so many fra- What inspired you to compose Penhaligon's new scent grances on the market, why do so many of your per- "Sartorial"? fumes resonate with the public?

Did you buy a bespoke suit? Do you remember the first fragrance you created?

Do you work from a brief? In order to be considered Art, must a fragrance smell good?

125 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Are you a Kindle person or a book person? How did the adventure start?

What is the last movie you saw? It still wasn't called Egoïste?

What is your idea of a perfect social evening? Then there was the fabulous commercial...

Reflecting on your past journeys, is there a place that You once said fragrances were divided into two you have been that you wish you could bottle? groups, those for cleanliness and those for sex. Where does Egoïste lie? Anything you would like to tell me before the next time we meet? What is the inspiration behind Bleu, your new men's fragrance, which has just hit stores? My Favorite Nose - Francis Kurkdjian - Oct. 13 In the decades you've been a perfumer, what changes And what smells stay with him from childhood? have you noticed?

His least favorite? A Beautiful Mind - Geza Schoen - Nov. 1

What perfumes does he admire? Escentric O3 and Molecule O3 feature the synthetic vetiveryle acetate. There are tons of vetiver fra- Recipe for a Perfume - Francis Kurkdjian - Oct. 14 grances, so why are these different?

The recipe for a great perfumer? Take us through the creative process of 03.

How do you get inspiration for a new fragrance? You've been a hot topic in the blogs lately, specifically that a niche perfumer ‘stole’ your formula for What do you look for in a great perfume? Escentric02. True?

Your most important tip in choosing a new scent? Speaking about Abroxan, which you featured as the core of Escentric 02 in 2008; in 2010 it’s ubiquitous. An Interview with Jacques Polge - Oct. 27 In your opinion, can a perfumer plagiarize or is the scent a derivative. Not only were its gender-bending scent and provocative name immediately, and forever, etched in our col- You have worked with briefs (for example for Clive lective memory (particularly in France), but who could Christian X and 1872 for men), as a collaborator, ie. forget Jean Paul Goude's gorgeously camp TV com- Wode, A Beautiful Mind: Intelligence and Fantasy and mercial, with its over-the-top Prokoviev soundtrack solo as in your Escentric series. How does the process and hysterical women shouting from balconies? differ and how does it affect your creativity?

A Chanel executive once told me that of all the fra- Escentric 01, with its overdosing of Iso E Super is on grances you've created at Chanel, Egoïste is your its way to becoming a cult classic…worn by fashion- favorite. Is that true? istas, perfumistas, and celebrities like Will Smith. Did you know that you were onto creating a fragrance that

126 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS really resonates with such diverse group of people You handpick many of the ingredients at Creed. What worldwide? does that entail?

Besides yourself, is there a contemporary perfumer Do you do much traveling? you admire for risk taking? Any tips for finding the right fragrance? Of course one of your most 'famous' quotes is "who wants to smell like Paris Hilton". In your opinion are Who are you favorite designers? all celebrity fragrances vapid. Are there any you like? Where do you like to shop in New York? Again: who wants to smell like…? How would you describe your personal style? Ca Fleure Bon was one of the first to review Your Beautiful Mind Series: Intelligence and Fantasy, an What are you saving up to buy? opus to Christiane Stenger on March 26, 2010 (in the first week we published)! Do you have plans for Part What should every man have in his closet? 2. Can you give us a hint as to who your next ‘beautiful mind' will be? What's something you never leave the house without?

In light of the above, how did it feel to formulate a Interview with Jessica Buchanan - Nov. 8 scent called Pussy Galore? Where did you grow up? 'Must a fragrance smell good to be considered Art'? Please describe your childhood olfactively. What do you think? What perfume did your mother wear? Is there a work of art or literature you wish you could bottle? What were some of your most memorable experiences at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery? When I interviewed you last year you said if you could be someone other than yourself, you would be a really Did you have a mentor in school? cool lamp post… still true? What is the back story of your first ‘commercial’ fra- If you could have dinner with any person/ or character grance Reglisse Noire? fictional or real, alive or dead who would it be? Actually, when I first wore your perfume, I thought it Erwin Creed - An Interview - Nov. 2 was natural. What is the ratio of natural to synthetic materials? Did you always know you would join the family perfume business? Favorite raw materials?

You're known to have rather adventurous hobbies. Do you plan on staying ‘indie’? How did you decide on this path rather than join a large fragrance compa-

127 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL ny as a nose? Exclusive Interview with Denyse Beaulieu - Nov. 19

Which perfumers work have influenced you the most? That’s one of many reasons why her bilingual, Paris- based blog, Grain De Musc, has generated a loyal What was the last song you downloaded? readership since she started it in May 2008. So it isn't surprising that when I ask her for her views on the If you could bottle a memory which would it be? increasingly vexing issue of IFRA regulation, she opts for a form of words that is firm yet relatively inoffen- JSB: The scent of April rain and orange blossoms at 3 sive. The specific question that prompts the above o’clock in the morning in Monaco. response is focused on packaging: can she imagine a time when perfumes will carry warning labels in the If you could meet any perfumer who would it be (sic manner of cigarettes and products containing nuts? :alive or deceased) Sticking with IFRA, I ask her if she really believes Hidden talent? the situation is at a crisis. Is all this a storm in a teacup or is it going to get worse? Which of your six senses influence you the most? You wrote in a relatively recent blog post that sillage Where do you see yourself in five years? has become a crime. Could you expand on that?

Your next fragrance? What are you working on? It's probably fair to say that there's a proliferation of perfume blogs at the moment. What do you think the What does being a perfumer in the 21st century mean effect of this will be? to you? Many people keep going back to Grain De Musc French Fragrance Prince Talks Scents - Nov. 12 because of your elegant prose and insightful reviews. How long does it take you to write them? How did you develop your sense of smell? Are they written in English first? Like wine, are there good years? Your blog is also notable for the fact that you reli- Putting those ingredients together is the hard part. Do giously respond to every single comment from your you make mistakes? readers. Is there a specific reason for that?

What are some of your favorite smells? What can you tell us about the book you're writing?

Which cologne do you wear? But it's not a novel?

Creed doesn’t advertise or use celebrity endorsements. I know you'll be back in London again in mid- Is Creed like an estate wine? December to run an 'Understanding Fragrance' course that's open to applicants from outside the College. So you are 29 years old and Creed is now your job. When will you be a master perfumer like your father?

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Could you tell us a little about it? Interview with Sylvie Ganter - Nov. 24

I understand that December will be the first time the When Atelier Cologne debuted in March of 2010, it course will have an extra day, so what will happen on was during a real slow down of consumer spending. the new Day 4? Was it difficult to get placement at retail?

Is there one scent that gets a particularly strong reac- Can you please talk about your years at Hermes and tion from students? how it has changed since Jean Claude Ellena came on board? Are you aware if any your students have made practical use of their newly-found olfactory skills? How did you meet the three perfumers Ralf Schwieger, Jérome Epinette and Cécile Krakower who Would you say that there are some innate skills that are created the current line? required for someone to be able to access the course? Your relationship with Christophe is personal as well So perfume appreciation really is something that can as professional. How do you balance the business and be taught and learned? the private life?

Have you found that some groups of people are more How do we balance business and private life? 'olfactorily starved' than others? Our Managing Editor, Mark Behnke, wrote that there So how did you develop your own olfactory autobiog- is a fragrance for everyone in the line. I agree. Can you raphy? explain to our readers the difference between a cologne absolue and an eau de parfum, (besides the Looking back at the last eleven months, what are your term), as both use comparable amounts of perfume favourite perfumes of the year? extrait?

And what sorts of perfumes can we expect in the In the press materials, it reads that the idea of Atelier immediate future? Cologne was ten years in the making. Can you explain in detail when the idea occurred to you and the process If the First Lady of France asked for your advice on of bringing the line to market? which scent to buy for Monsieur Sarkozy, what would you say? Which Atelier Cologne do you wear? Christophe?

And finally, when you travel back to Paris, which per- Atelier coined the term "Cologne Absolue", now fume would you like them to pump through the Maison Francis Kurkdjian also use it… I am curious Eurostar's air conditioning to make the journey more how you feel about that bearable? I read a blogger article that called your fragrances a Hasn't that been discontinued? well-marketed line. As a marketer, I agree, but without great jus no amount of marketing could create success. What are the core values of your brand and why has it struck such an 'accord' with so many perfumistas.

129 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Will you continue to create only colognes, soaps and ParfumWhat is the most important lesson you have candles or will you branch out into perfume? learned in your career?

Will the same noses continue creating your fra- Describe your creative process grances? What is your favourite fragrance? What was your inspiration for Orange Sanguine? What do you want your customers to take away from What does Orange Sanguine conjure up for you? your products?

Can you describe the key ingredients of Orange Who’s work do you admire in you field? Sanguine and their properties/specificities? Sweet Smell of Success- Dec. 24 What sets Orange Sanguine apart? Did you always want to be a perfumer? Thank you Ralf… back to Sylvie. Paris or New York? The Creed label says 'From father to son since 1760'. Favorite place to vacation? Are men better perfumers?

The last book you read? What made Creed come to Thailand?

Where did you grow up? What's the recipe for success?

First olfactive memory? Can you give us an example of a new perfume?

Favorite meal? What's special about the Millesimes range?

Addicted to…? How do you feel about turning 30 this month?

Historical figure you wish you could meet? How do you keep yourself young and healthy?

What is next for Atelier Colognes? What folks don’t realize as a seventh generation perfumer he is creating exactly what his father, grandfa- Behind a Fragrance - Linda Pilkington - Nov. 29 ther, greatgrandfather and so on created.

Have you always been passionate about fragrance? He has a formulation book of past creations, and he makes variations of it. All perfumers do this. How did you get your start? Between 1,000 creative artists, and add in the folks at IFRA there is nothing new. I mean how many ways When and how did you decide to start your own com- can one create an apple, or pear? pany? He travels the world seeking new aroma materials Orris Noir Eau De ParfumOrris Noir Eau De when there aren’t any. The world’s fragrance ingredi-

130 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS ents are in two books that will never be available to the fragrance industry.

All in all it’s a pretty exciting gig.

131 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

The Articles

Name of Article Year Pages

1930 - 2006

Perfume & Politics A Profile of Francois Coty 1930 Janet Flanner

Where are We Going 1969 Edmond Rudnitska

Perfumery & Marketing 1972 Edmond Rudnitska

The Novice & His Perfume Palette 1982 Edmond Rudnitska

The Challenge of Creativity Bernard Chant

Concerning the Circumstances Favorable 1986 Edmond Rudnitska

Hommage to Edmond Roudnitska Author Unknown

International Report; Making Fragrance from 3000 Odors 1988 Nancy H. Kreisler

Works In Progress - Nose Job 1989 Bruce Weber

About New York; Pros’ Noses Turn to ‘Royal Family Douglas Martin

132 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Why Some Perfumers Turn Up Their Noses 1992 Michele Loyer

Interview with Edmond Roudnitska 1993 Author Unknown

Computer Aides for “Noses” Jacques Neher

A New Nose in Perfume 1994 Jean Rafferty

The World of Perfume - Allure of the Art 1995 Shanon L. Karppinen

Scent Solutions 1995 Pam Frost

Edmond Roudnitska: A Tribute 1996 Author Unknown

Nose Job 1997 Roy Rivenburg

Guerlain Author Unknown

Synthetic Ingredients Increasinly Part of the Mix Michele Loyer

Appearances; Hitting It On the Nose May Tannen

The Bitter Sweet Smell of Success 1998 Kate Worsley

The Sweet Smell of Success - Meet Givaudan’s Perfumers Lisa Chadderdon

A Lecture by French Perfumer - Guy Robert Author Unknown

Armed Gang Raids Perfume Scion’s Home Suzy Menkes

Perfume - The Essence of Illusion Cathy Newman

Public Eye ( Nose ); Scents of the Everyday Locked In a Bottle Phil Patton

Les Senteurs Perfumery Course Author Unknown

Sniffing the Air With Oliver Creed 1999 Rick Marin

On the Trail Of a Scent Anette Heist

Eau de Rain Forest Marliese Simons

A Scent Is Not Easily Put Into Words Author Unknown

133 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

From a Perfumer’s Point of View 2000 Author Unknown

Counterintelligence: Snapshots in Scent Alex Mitchell

IFF’s Space Research Results - Space Rose Author Unknown

On the Scent of Something Different Author Unknown

Attract at Any Price 2001 Sabine Chabert

Past Notes of Princely Passion Author Unknown

Q & A - The Sense of Smell Claiborne Ray

The Great Chef’s Aromas Agnes Zamboni

French “Nose” Keeps Alive a Pungent Art Caroline Brothers

The Home Front; A Nose With an Eye Julia Szabo

Three Scent Specialist Cheryl Moore

Interview With Michael Edwards Grant Osborne

Fresh Heirs Author Unknown

The Nose Knows - Jean Michel Duriez Mathilde Gendron

Interview With Marian Bendeth Grant Osborne

The Sweet Smell Of the Fragrance Industry Vivien Jones

Interview with Perfumer Christin Nagel 2002 Bernard Bourgeons

How the Fragrance Industry Will Benefit from Internet Michael Mane

An Interview with Perfumer - Alberto Morillas Author Unknown

The Classical Perumers Apprenticeship Arthur Burnham

Perfumer - How One is Trained Author Unknown

A Nose - How a Perfumer is Selected Author Unknown

134 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Making Scents - Lorenzo Villoresi - Secrets of the Art Author Unknown

Perfumers Design Fragrances No Nose Knows: James Sherwood

Jacques Polge - An Interview Anette Green

Making Scents Silke Tudor

The Seven Artist Sacre Nobi

Perfumery School Sniffs Out Talent Jasmin Mueller

Awash with Perfume Elisabeth King

Perfumers In a Stink - IFRA Author Unknown

Nathalie Lorson - Perfumer - Firmenich Author Unknown

The Perfume School Adam Sage

The Day I Was Led By the Nose Elizabeth Grice

The Color of Fragrance Author Unknown

A Nose For It Susie Rushton

Flowers in Orbit Kate Melville

Creativity in Perfumery? 2003 Author Unknown

Scents & Sensibility - The Seven Deadly Amy Bracken Sparks

Good Scents - Mandy Aftel Bary Caine

In the World of Fragrance, Reputations Rest on the Nose Enid Nemy

Interview de Fabrice Pellegrin Author Unknown

Beauty - Take a Deep Breath & Smell the Summer Catherine Turner

Follow Your Nose Andrew Jefford

Indulging the Chemical Senses Maureen Rouhi

135 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

The Creative Work of the Perfumer Author Unknown

Perfume is Scent to India Author Unknown

Sniffing Out Your Favorite Fragrance Author Unknown

The Bloom of Yough Cara Birnbaum

Evelyn Lauder: Beauty Queen Author Unknown

Sniffing Out a Fragrant Future - School of Perfumery Author Unknown

The High School Classroom - Interview with IFF Perfumer 2004 Author Unknown

Chemistry Perfumes Your Daily Life Anne Dominique Fortineau

Follow Your Nose Andrew Jefford

Career of the Month - Perfumer Author Unknown

Pages From a Perfumers Journal Gail Adrian

Right Under His Nose - An Interview with Jacques Polge Jeremy Josephs

The Seven Perfumers - Firminich Artists Author Unknown

French Perfumers In a Stink Author Unknown

Scents & Sensibility - Dr. George Dodd Author Unknown

The Art of Conjuring Up a Fragrance Vicky Elliott

Dollars & Scents Reema Ameer

Custom Scents Reema Ameer

Master Perfumer - Knows Perfect Fragrance is Heavenscent Angela Allen

The Perfume Market - A Sweet Monopoly Karoly Kiralyfalvi

Luca Turin’s Presentation to the BSP Clio Vidal

Explores a World of Scent - to Find Our Sensual Selves Isabelle Aurel

136 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Michael Edwards Presentation to BSP Clio Vidal & Helene Pizet

What an Artist Needs to Know to Formulate a Scent Felix Buccilato

Celebrity Fragrances: What Price, Fame? Author Unknown

Lorenzo Villoresi - Self Trained Perfumer Marcello Aspira

Sure Sure Smells Good Hemangini Gupta

Innter Global Fashion Trends - Lynn Harris JCR

You Smell Delicious Enough to Eat - Fine Food Scents JCR

The Pleasure Principal Corinne A. Marasco

Perfume of the Rain Forest Patrick Cunningham

Allergen Article: Could this Be the End for Natural Perfumes? John Stephen

Head Space Technology - Industries New Perfumer Samtha Critchell

Clive Christian’s Scent by Numbers Tom Julian

Traditional Perfumers Smell Trouble as Technology Cracks Scents Author Unknown

Genius With a Bottle Author Unknown

Scent & the City Author Unknown

French Master-Perfumer Even Dreams of Scents Caroline Brothers

Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Gives Her Favourite Novels Thomas Pettifor

A Waft From the Past Jennifer Laing

New Jersey & Company; A Chemist & the Lot Kirsty Sucato

Scent of a Woman Coeli Carr

Business Scents & The Art of Nose Bronwyn Cosgrave

Scents & Suitability - Lynn Harris Geraldine Bedell

137 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Yosh Han Anastasia Hendrix

Interview with Perfumer Jean Kerlo 2005 Annick Vandorpe

Givaudan Perfumer Has Nose for Success Natalia Dudareva

Making Sense of Smell Zoe Cormier

Jean Patou, In-House Perfumer Visits Cayman Islands Author Unknown

The Scent of the Nile - Jean Claude Ellena Creates New Perfume Chandler Burr

Perfume Creation Shawn Taylor

Caroline Sabas - Givaudan Perfumer Author Unknown

Vive La Vie - The House of Roure Author Unknown

An Interview with Luca Turin Robin

Strong, Man Author Unknown

Luca Turin’s Perfume Criticism Chandler Burr

Of the Essence Jennifer Steinhauer

The Chocolate Connoisseur Author Unknown

Putting on the Spritz Cat Callendar

Experiments in Smell at a Williamsburg Perfumerie Rima Suqi

The Perfume Market - A Complex Monopoly Karoly Kiralyfalvi

The Alchemist’s Life - Mandy Aftel Anastasia Hendrix

Lui pour Elle Luca Turin

The Fall Of the House of Guerlain Luca Turin

Yes, but Which? - Classifying Fine Fragrances Luca Turin

Nose Of the Week - Olivia Giacobetti Author Uknown

138 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

The Perfect Floral Luca Turin

Try Some Play-Doh Behind Your Ears Alex Kuczynski

Master Sniffer Clears Shuttle for Lift Off Philip Sherwell

Doean Pickett - The Nose Knows Clyde Park

The Unbearable Lightness of Scent Author Unknown

Perfumer Author Unknown

Scent Of the Young & Happy Author Unknown

An Excellent Nose for Business Auhor Unknown

Mark Constantine & His son Simon Caroline Scott

Perfumery & the Art Author Unknown

An Interview with Alexandra Balahoutis Robin

An Interview With Yann Vasnier Author Unknown

Making Perfume: Why I Think I’m a Nose Cathy Newman

Perfume Time Luca Turin

Givaudan Reopens Its Perfumery School Author Unknown

Natural Perfumery: Conversation with Mandy Aftel Author Unknown

Edmond Roudnitska - Le Parfum Author Unknown

Interview with Michel Roudnitska Author Unknown

On the Rise: The Scent of Rubber Cement Author Unknown

Pinay in Singapore Helps Make World Smell Sweeter Candy G. Villanueva

Perfumer Germaine Cellier Author Unknown

Fragrance Education Author Unknown

139 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

An Interview with Lorenzo Villoresi Robin

Nose Around, You’ll Find New Scents Kathryn Wexler

Perfume Making: The Art of “Les Nex” Author Unknown

The Fabulous World of Fragrances Neesha C. Salian

Perfumer Author Unknown

Perfume - The End of Civilization Isabelle Rousseau

Francois Coty - Four Great Discoveries that Created a Modern Industry Author Unknown

An Astrological Guide to Scent Author Unknown 2006

Attract at Any Price - Givaudan “Rigor Refound” Sabine Chabbert

The Nose Has Its’ Reasons David Colman

Time In a Bottle Kate M. Jackson

Aimé Guerlain ( 1834 - 1910 ) Author Unknown

Perfumers Lose the Scent of Profit with Oversupply Carl Mortished

Perfume Notes - The End Of the Road For a Theory? Tony Burfield

Professional ‘Noses’ Know the Sweet Smell of Success Author Unknown

Most Expensive Perfumes Sophia Banay

Beauty Beat: Goutal’s Lates Scent a Dream... Ellen Groves

What Are Set to Be The Hotest Fragrance Notes in 2006? Author Unknown

Sniffing Out New Markets Jean Abelson

Perfumer Draws Fire Over a Scent Called ‘Peace’ Ruth La Ferla

Master Perfumer Jean-Calude Ellena Mark Grischke

140 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Capturing the Essence of New York in a Flask Ruth La Ferla

Sophia Grojsman of IFF Author Unknown

Chanel No. 5 & Other Perfumes Naming Elico Martiano

Natural Perfumers Author Unknown

A Fragrance for You, & Only You Nia Elizabeth Shepherd

Interview with Perfumer Sophia Grojsman Author Unknown

Channeling Chanel Alison Kerr

A Conversation with - Jacques Polge Annette Green

The Perfect Perfume Author Unknown

Biologists Help Perfumers Capture New Scents Author Unknown

Bottled Memories Chin Mui Yoon

True To Its Creed Author Unknown

An Interview with René Laruelle Marlen Harrison

Perfumer Jean Michael Duriez is On the Scent of the Next Big Thing Clifford Pugh

An Explorer Following His Nose Alex Butterworth

The Life of a Perfumer Author Unknown

A Sensory Superpower is Both a Blessing & a Curse Christopher Elliott

Smell Leaves Hotel Guests Wanting More Neil Curry

Top Dollar for Personal Scents Author Unknown

Guerlain - The Master Perfumer James Phillips

Only the Nose Knows the Scents of This Exhibit Joann Loviglio

Making Scents of Branding Luca Rino

141 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Tuberose For the Innocent & Timid Author Unknown

Portrait Of an Artist - Ralf Schwieger Author Unknown

Is a Scent Like a Song? Qui & Non Elaine Sciolino

Fishy Perfume of Sydney Gets Up Frenchman’s Nose Georgina Safe

Fragrance: Scents of Direction Author Unknown

The Aristocrat Alison Kerr

Perfume Scoop! Ineke Perfumer San Francisco Catilin Shortell

Creating Your Own Perfume Jenny Callison

An Interview with Ayala Sender Grant Osborne

Scent of Success Judith Keeling

An Interview with The New York Times - Perfume Critic Grant Osborne

‘Naomi’s is Hideous’ Lara Barton

Eau D’New York in the Summer Beth Fertig

Francois Coty - Corsican Father of Modern Perfumiers William Keyser

The Sweat Hog Susie Rushtons

Perfumery as Artistry Raquel Laneri

What’s the Best Way To Get Into the Scent Business? Caroline Hayden

Fragrance - Travel Notes Lesa Hannah

IFF’s Fragrance + Fashion Competition Author Unknown

Roja Dove’s Aromatic Adventures Ian McCurrach

The Fragrance Market is Saturated with Celebrity Scents Author Unknown

IFF Prize Author Unknown

142 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Annie Buzantian - Perfumer - Firmenich Author Unknown

Jacques Cavallier - Perfumer - Firmenich Author Unknown

Ilias Ermenidis - Perfumer - Firmenich Author Unknown

Harry Fremont - Perfumer - Firmenich Author Unknown

Annick Menardo - Perfumer - Firmenich Author Unknown

Alberto Morillas - Perfumer - Firmenich Author Unknown

Thierry Wasser - Perfumer - Firmenich Author Unknown

Carlos Benaim - Perfumer - IFF Author Unknown

Loc Dong - Perfumer - IFF Author Unknown

Sophia Grojsman - Perfumer - IFF Author Unknown

Christophe Laudamiel - Perfumer - IFF Author Unknown

Bethan Cole: The Sybarite Bethan Cole

Sweet Smell of Success - Roja Dove Alison Kerr

Artisian Natural Perfumers Guild Author Unknown

Lets Talk About Naturals Author Unknown

Ann Gottlieb - Perfumer Author Unknown

Fragrance - Revival of the Fittest Emma Reinhold

IFF Success Stories - Sophie Labbe Author Unknown

There’s No Common Scents In Perfumier’s City Outlet Lynn Gilmour

Spotlight: The Precise Smell of Success Caroline Brothers

Captured, The Sweet Scent of Happiness Zeeya Merali

143 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

It’s a Stinky Job, but Astronauts are Grateful S.Derickson Moore

An Interview with Alexandra Balahoutis Danielle Osborne

Would ‘Cleaner’ Perfumes Smell Just as Sweet? James Kanter

Brand Profile: Art of Perfumery Grant Osborne

What the Nose Knows Author Unknown

Perfumes Tied to Film do Not All Smell Well Coeli Carr

Start-Up Fragrance Companies - Catch a Whiff of Success Ronald D. White

Entrepreneur Pulling in Dollars with His Scents Ronald D. White

Good Vibrations Katherine Kizilos

Scents & Sensibility - Bespoke Fragrances Celia Lyttelton

Park Hyatt Commissions Own Perfume Line Sarah Gam

Tracking Down the Scents of the Natural World Robert Brookes

Smelling is Believing Rodrique Ngowi

It All Makes Sense Susie Rushton

Birth of a Perfume Author Unknown

Perfume Designer & Fragrance Publisher - Frédéric Malle Author Unknown

Passing the Sniff Test - A New Perfume Tries to Capture the Impossible Elizabeth Snead

Luxury Items Boey Ping Pin

Heaven Scents Susie Rushton

Perfumes Tied to Film Do Not All Smell Well Coeli Carr

Jean-Babtiste Grenouille - A Perfumer Murderer Author Unknown

On the Scent in Paris Louise Roddon

144 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

How France Makes Sense of Scents Caroline Wyatt

Interview - Oscar De La Renta Anette Green

Interview - Alain Boucheron Anette Green

Interview - Massimo Ferragamo Anette Green

Interview - Carolina Herrera Anette Green

Interview - Karl Lagerfield Anette Green

Interview - Donna Karan Anette Green

Interview - Lolita Lempicka Anette Green

Interview - Bob Mackie Anette Green

Interview - Nicole Miller Anette Green

Interview - Paco Rabanne Anette Green

Interview - Sonia Rykiel Anette Green

Interview - Yves Saint Laurent Anette Green

Interview - Anna Sui Anette Green

Interview - Vivienne Westwood Anette Green 2007

The Art of Perfume Allison O’Rourke

Written In the Stars Author Unknown

Feature: Rare & Costly ‘Bespoke’ Author Unknown

Perfume’ - It’s Not Another Snuff Film Susan Stone

Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Dr. George Dodd Catherine Deveney

Master Perfumers Nose Ahead with Made-To-Measure Scents Author Unknown

145 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Boulder Perfumer Blends Scents with Passion Brooke Wagner

Interview with Les Christophs’s Perfumers of Le Coffret Marian Bendeth

The Art of Fragrance - Christopher Brosius Mary Rayme

Traces of Marie Antoinette, Perfume Molly Moore

Smell Like a Queen for a Princely Sum Molly Moore

A Fragrance is a Fleeting Thing Author Unknown

Making Scents: Natural Perfumery Jan DeGrass

Job Vent Author Unknown

Synthetic Perfume Versus Natural Scents - Which is Better? Joanna McLaughlin

A New World of Haute Perfume Georgina Safe

Conversations: Laurice Rahme of Bond No. 9 Marlen Harrison

The Joy of 6 Susie Rushton

Artisian Natural Perfumers Guild Joins Crop Watch Author Unknown

Perfect Scents Edwina Ings- Chambers

Coming Up Roses Sara Glassman

Uncommon Scents - Natural Perfumers Extract Lush Life Michelle Devera Louie

Threat to Artisian Perfumers Author Unknown

Scented Memories Dzireena Mahadzir

The Scent of a Woman Becky Linhardt

Symrise Establishes Perfumers’ Academy Author Unknown

An Interview with Sylvie Jesua Marie-Helene Wagner

Making Perfect Scents Author Unknown

146 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Perfumers & The 40th Amendment Tony Burfield

Made by IFF Author Unknown

Future Shock Horacio Silva

Fragrance Science Part 3: Developing & Testing Author Unknown

Take a Whiff: The Fragrance Industry Caters to Our Memories March 2007 Lori Grannis

A Royalty’s ‘Creed’ Candy M. Veneeracion

Can Calvin Klein Seduce the ‘Millennial’ Eric Wilson

IFF’s Christophe Laudamiel Talks Scents Author Unknown

Symrise - Trains Perfumers Of the Future Louise Prance

For Old-Line Chanel, Audacious New Edge Chandler Burr

How Do I Become a Perfumer Emily Ford

Sales Guide - Counter Assistance Roja Dove

An Interview with Christopher Chong Marie-Helene Wagner

Exposing the Perfumer Krell Kydd

The Craft of Designing Fragrances Sarah E. Needleman

A Skillfull Blend of Art & Science Author Unknown

In the Trenches: The Small-House Perfumer Author Unknown

Secret Formula Perfumer Flying High Author Unknown

Beauty Box: Lynn Harris, Perfumer Author Unknown

Firmenich Perfumer - Alberto Morallis Sandra Low

Down with Perfume Tim McKeough

Olfactory Girls Linda Laban

147 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

The Smell of Competition Jeremy Caplan

International Department Author Unknown

Fragrance Families Author Unknown

Natural Selection Bethan Cole

Coming Up Smelling Roses Helen Greenwood

The House of Creed Boy Abunda

Perfumer Neil Morris Interview Mark David

Green In Perfume - How to Build a Better Rose Chandler Burr

Neil Morris: The Proust of Perfume Michelyn Camen

What are Perfumes? Roman Franczak

International Award For the 2008 Creative Perfumer Isabel Dever

Creating Effective Natural Fragrances May 2007 Author Unknown

Breathing in Coney Island, At Just $ 178 a Bottle Anthony Ramirez

Spending Quality Time with Isabelle Doyen & Camille Goutal Marcello Aspira

Featured Perfumer: Francis Kurkdjian Author Unknown

People Whose Noses Know Author Unknown

The Dark Aromas Seduce Us David Livingstone

Conversations: Serena Ava France of Ava-Luxe Minsun Lee

Conversations: Andy Tauer Marlen Harsen

Uncommon Scents To a Virtuoso Parfumier Angela Murrills

Paris Made to Measure Author Unknown

Interview with Nicolas Olczyk Marie-Helene Wagner

148 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Uncommon Scents Kupluthai Pungkanon

The Fragrant Gourmet Helen Greenwood

Conversations: Lorenzo Villoresi Ermano

What’s In a Summer Scent? Sarah Horrocks

Fredric Malle, Style & Design - Visionaries Deirdre Van Dyk

Reminiscent Of a Woman Jo Abbie

So You Want to Work in Fragrance & Cosmetic Science Liz Ford

Eau d’Embargo Pranay Gupte

Composing Perfumes Cathy Redig

The Interpreter of Accords - Laurent Assoulen Marian Bendeth

Annick Goutal Fragrances Rachel Clinton

Perfumer Daniela ( Roche ) Andrier Marie-Helene Wagner

Perfumer & Artistic Director François Demachy Marie-Helene Wagner

Composing Perfumes Cathy Rideg

Q & A with Fabrice Penot of Le Labo Marie-Helene Wagner

Fragrance Millionaires Author Unknown

Perfumer Anne Flipo Marie-Helene Wagner

Shiloh - A Perfume & a Baby Joe Bargmann

For Hire: Perfume Nose Siobhan Roth

Scent Sleuth: From Profile to Perfume Marian Bendeth

Perfumer Alberto Morillas Marie-Helene Wagner

Interview with a Perfumer - Celene Elenna David Pescovitz

149 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

IFF Perfumer Promotions Author Unknown

Conversations: Sharon Bolton Livia Scarcella

The Life of a Perfumer Sarrah Horrocks

Niche Perfumers Author Unknown

How is Your Favorite Perfume Made? Author Unknown

What it Takes To Drive Them Wild Marian Bendeth

The Stories Around the First Gres’ Fragrances Author Unknown

Birth of a Fragrance Sept. 2007 Author Unknown

The Long Path to Becoming a Nez Bill Oae

Invent Your Own Scent with a Fragrance Expert Author Unknown

Sustainable Scents Jeb Allured Gleason

Conversations: Sarah Horowitz - Thran Bernadette

Lyn Harris - Perfumer Author Unknown

Organic Perfumer Growing at Her Own Pace Jondi Gumz at Jgumz

Marie Salamagne, Perfumer - An Interview Author Unknown

A Life in the Day: Daniela ( Roche ) Andrier Ria Higgins

Jean Claude Ellena - Le Parfum Author Unknown

BT Woman - Purple Haze Author Unknown

Garden of the Senses - Astrological Signs Author Unknown

Inside Symrise’s Perfumer’s Academy Author Unknown

An Interview with San Francisco Based Perfumer, Ineke Ruhland Grant Osborne

The Sweet Smell of Success - Jacques Polge Author Unknown

150 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

P & G Enters Luxury Perfume Market Author Unknown

Interview with Chandler Burr - Perfume Critic Mark David Boberick

The Man Behind the Hat: An Interview with Romano Ricci Marian Bendeth

Perfume Industry Aims to Regain Prestige Kate Weisman

Conversations: Laurie Erickson Ashne

Symrise Establishes Perfumers’ Academy Author Unknown

Perfumer - Sophie Labbé Marie-HeleneWagner

Inside Symrise’s Perfumers’ Academy Author Unknown

New Perfumers for Symrise Author Unknown

Perfumer - Ernest Shiftan Marie-Helene Wagner

Interview With a Perfumer: Jean Jacques Author Unknown

Meox Mix Chandler Burr

Conversations: Gilles Thevenin of Lubin Sergey

Her Nose Knows Carrie MacMillan

An Interview with Perfumer Jean Claude Elenna Lanie Goodman

A Brief History of Scent Lanie Goodman

What’s That You Are Wearing? Roast Beef? Josh Ozersky

Germany: Symrise GmbH Establishes ‘Perfumer’s Academy’ Author Unknown

IFF Finds Newest Scents in New Jersey Joseph R. Perone

Connecticut Grown Perfumers’ Website Nov. 2007 Phil Hall

Something’s In the Air at IFF Michael L. Diamon

Conversations: Lorenzo Villoresi Ermano

151 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

How to Take the Stress Out of Christmas Shopping Charlotte Metcalf

What Goes Inside Molly Prior

Conversations: Jo Hook Livia Scarcella

Conversations: JoAnne Bassett, Natural Perfumer Marlen Harrison

The Home Where Fragrances Live Elena Knezevic’

Interview with Roja Dove Marie-HeleneWagner

Scents & Sensibility - Celebrity Perfumes Paul Dalgarno

The New Scentsations Nikki Goldstein

Making Scents: Natural Perfumery Jan DeGrass

Natural Perfumery - An Art Jn De Grass

Isabelle Aurel - Explorers a World of Scent Author Unknown

The Smell of Money Janet Kersnar

The Editor Meets Roja Dove Caroline Lucey

International Award for the 2008 Creative Perfumer Author Unknown

Scent of Success for Woman with Nose for Business Jill Armstrong

The Fragonard Perfume Launch Chandler Burr

Perfume - The Evolution of Scent in the Fragrance Industry Evelyn Vincent

Guerlain Author Unknown

Whiff of Haute Couture Fragrance, - Perfumer Frederic Malle Sylvia Rubin

Scent Journey: Guerlain’s 180th Birthday Rita Silvan

Why the Perfume Business is Beginning to Stink Christina Passariello

152 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

The Smell of Money - Making Scents of the World’s Author Unknown

Scent of a Man - Perfumer Jean Claude Elenna Author Unknown

IFF Promotions Author Unknown

Perfumer Technician Author Unknown

Clearing the Air: In Praise of Synthetics Bruce Garlick

Jean-Pierre Bethouart - Perfumer Author Unknown

Annie Buzantian - Perfumer - Firmenich 2008 Author Unknown

Jacques Cavallier - Perfumer Author Unknown

Oliver Cresp - Perfumer Author Unknown

Isabelle Doyen - Perfumer Author Unknown

Elisabeth de Feydeau - Historian Author Unknown

Celine Elenna - Perfumer Author Unknown

Interview ‘Etal Libre d’Orange’ - Perfumer Author Unknown

A “Green” Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena Author Unknown

Hervé Gambs Author Unknown

Aurélien Guichard - Perfumer Author Unknown

Nathalie Lorson - Perfumer - Firmenich Author Unknown

Clara Molly - Perfumer Author Unknown

Fabrice Penot - Designer Author Unknown

Laurice Rahme - Perfumery Author Unknown

Romano Ricci - Designer Author Unknown

Ineke Ruhland - Perfumer Author Unknown

153 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Stéphanie de Saint Aignan - Perfumer Author Unknown

Marie Salamagne - Perfumer Author Unknown

Sara Horowitz Thran - Perfumer Author Unknown

Frank Voelkl - Perfumer Author Unknown

Perfumer - Alberto Morillas Author Unknown

Smell is a Potent Wizard Author Unknown

An Interview with Perfumer - Ulrich Lang Danielle Cooper

Davos Aromas Deodorize Subprime Stench A. Craig Copetas

Perfumer’s Talent is Heaven - Scent David Livingstone

Conversations: Russell Newell, Social Creatures Marlen Harrison

Clearing the Air: In Praise of Synthetics Part II Author Unknown

World Economic Forum & Fresh Scents from IFF Mark Champton

Conversations: An Interview with Marian Bendeth Sali Oguri

Smelly Davos Unveils New World Odor Barry Neild

Blown Away by Fragrant Typhoon Helen Greenwood

IFF Promotions Author Unknown

Perfumer’s Interview Author Unknown

India Scent Expedition Feb. 2008 Venikat Lyer

Scent Sleuth - When is a Rose Not a Rose? Nancy C. Hyden

Collaborations & the Golden Rule Jeff Falk

On the Scent of a Winner Author Unknown

Conversations: Janna Sheehan of Trance Essence Marlen Harrison

154 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Smells of London - Roja Dove Maggie Davis

New Regulations for Perfume Ingredients Ellina Tzvetkova

The Moment Scent Notes - Teint de Neige by Lorenzo Villoresi Chandler Burr

Jobs In Perfume & Aroma Industry Heidi

The Italian Nose: Laura Tonatto Lisa-Anne Sanderson

Indie Designer Interviews: Vmagique Perfume Oils Mallory Whitfield

For Perfumes, Synthetics Smell Sweeter Chandler Burr

Synthetic Ingredients - Are Killing the Use of Essential Oils Chandler Burr

Sold on Scents Author Unknown

How To Create Perfume: The Journey of A Perfumer Patricia Warner

Conversations: Raffy of Parfums Raffy Marlen Harrison

L'Osmothèque - The Fifth Sense in the News Marie-HeleneWagner

Scent Trail Leads Here Maxine Gordon

An Old World Perfumer Races Sarah Jessica Parker March 2008 Chandler Burr

Conversations: Kedra Hart of Opus Oils Livia Scarcella

Andy Warhol Gets Another Scent Jen Carlson

Business Relies on Noses for Its Profits Michael L. Diamond

Leading by a Nose - Perfumer Anne Gottleib Diana Uy

5 Day Perfumery Course in New York City Philip Goutell

Interview with Perfumer Egon Oelkers Marie-Helene Wagner

All In a Stink About Perfume Derek McCormack

Bottling Your Own Personal Smell Author Unknown

155 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Why It’s Good to Smell Vicky Allan

Christophe Laudamiel: Perfume in a Poem Author Unknown

Dove Gets Fresh with Women Vanessa L. Facenda

Uncommon Scents - Roja Dove Stella

Cutting Edge Creativity - Linda Pilkington Suchitra Steven Samuel

Perfumes on Trial - The Truth About Our Scent Industry Ashley Pearson

Interview with a Perfumer: Kristen Michèle April 2008 Violet Devereaux

All in a Stink About Perfume Derek McCormack

Edwin Creed Not to Become TV Star Grant Osborne

Perfumes are Back to the Future Raquel Laneri

Interview with Natural Perfumer Laurie Stone Author Unknown

A “Green” Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena Fabienne Antoniewski

An Interview with Ulrich Lang Danielle Cooper

Perfumers’ Help Women Smell Like Babies Author Unknwon

The Body Beautiful - Perfumer Lynn Harris Hillary Alexander

Everyone’s A Critic - Luca Turin Ruth La Ferla

To Smell & Back - Perfume Critic Chandler Burr Beth Luberecki

Conversations with Ulrich Lang Ermano

Serge Lutens Interview: Stakes & Professions Author Unknown

The World’s Best Perfume Raquel Laneri

Now, Everyone’s a Perfume Critic Ruth La Ferla

Live From New York - HBA Addressed Industry Trends Nancy Jeffries

156 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Bond No. 9 Unveils - Second Andy Warhol Perfume Rachael Taylor

Conversations: The Creators of Le Labo Cris Rosa Negra

Conversations with Anya McCoy Marlen Harrison

Natural Perfumers - Acording to Jean Pierre Subrenat Author Unknown

Growing Your Own Perfume Author Unknown

The Talk; Liquid Assets Phoebe Eaton

Guerlain Names Thierry Wasser Exclusive Perfumer Rebecca Mann

The Scent of Peace - IFF Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel Katherine Marshall

Oman: A Perfumer’s Dream Rhona Wells

2008 Young Perfumer of the Year Named Author Unknown

Paying Through Your Nose for Your Very Own Scent Author Unknown

Booksmart Mary Welp

Il Fragrance Delecto Marian Bendeth

Coming Up Roses’ Jean Patou’s Perfumer - Michael Durez Author Unknown

An Interview with Perfumer - Olivia Giacobetti Author Unknown

Jean-Claude Ellena Does Vetiver Author Unknown

Jean Claude Ellena - Q & A Author Unknown

A Whiff of Scandal Author Unknown

Hermes Fragrance - Beauty Author Unknown

To Spray or Stay Away Luca Turin

Luxury with Lucia - Bespoke Perfumes Lucia van der Post

Natural Perfume Notes Ayna McCoy

157 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Arabian perfumes: An Essence of Tradition Shiraz Hasan

Vanity Mirror - Alphabet Scents Laura Katzenberg

Odor Among Aromas June 08 Larry Nielsen

Scents of Home Interview with IFF Perfumer - Subha Patel Vicki Hyman

Jennifer Jambon Wins International Young Perfumer Awardt Grant Osborne

Blaise Mautin - Creates a Personal Scent for Park Hyatt Zurich Author Unknown

Scent Trek Through Time - Part I Marian Bendeth

Symrise Opens New Creative Center in Shanghai Author Unknown

The Art of Perfume Making in the World’s ‘Perfume Capital’ DPA

Narciso the Painter & Padma the Perfumer Bennet Marcus

Secret Formula, Intrigue, Copycats Joanna McLaughlin

Yosh Han on Chocolate Perfumes Author Unknown

Scent Treks Through Time - Part II Marian Bendeth

Fragrance of the Orient Syida Lizta Amirul Ihsan

A Perfumer’s Passion - Musk Ingredients Michael Storer

How Green is Your Spritz Helen Greenwood

Scent Treks Through Time - Part III Marian Bendeth

All in a Stink About Perfume Derek McCormack

Scent Treks Through Time - Park IV Marian Bendeth

Scent Treks Through Time - Part V Marian Bendeth

Conversations: Liz Zorn of Soivohle’ Abigail

Scent Treks Through Time - Part VI Marian Bendeth

158 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Carlos Cramer Perfumer July 2008 Author Unknown

Scent Treks Through Time - Part VII Marian Bendeth

Scent Treks Through Time - Part VIII Marian Bendeth

Perfumer’s Playground Phoebe Eaton

I Do Everything Classic with a Twist - Perfumer Romano Ricci Gemma Champ

Conversations: George Wuchsa of First in Fragrance Marlen Harrison

Scent Treks Through Time - Part VIIII Marian Bendeth

Perfume Choice More than Skin Deep Emmy Fitri

Scent Treks Through Time - Part X Marian Bendeth

Robert Piguet | Designer, Scentmaker, Legend Tim Girvin

The Perfumer Who Hates Perfume - Christopher Brosius Liz Upton

An Interview with Bertrand Duchaufour Michelyn Camen

Scent Treks Through Time - Part XI August 2008 Marian Bendeth

Filling the Gilded Shoes of Guerlain - Thierry Wasser Marian Bendeth

Small-Batch, big-Passion Scent Elizabeth Wellington

Clive Christian Smells Expensive Derek McCormack

For Aveda, The Problem with Common Scents Dee De Pass

Conversations: Michael Storer Livia Scarcella

How to Smell Like a Used Bookstore Dwight Garner

Perfumer Disdains Common Scents Dee De Pass

Interview with Perfumer Linsa Kramer Author Unknown

Scent Treks Through Time - Part XII Marian Bendeth

159 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Romano Ricci - Perfumer Author Unknown

Conversations: Neil Morris Abigail

Chemical Romance India Knight

Natural Perfumers: Ayala Moriel, Claude Andre Hebert Nathan Branch

Fragrance Facts - How to Pick, Buy & Keep a Perfume Sept. 2008 Luca Turin

Niche Perfumer Creates Fragrance’s Author Unknown

Talking Scents Hadley Freeman

Roja Dove’s New Book: Essence of Perfume Marlen Harrison

Interview with a Perfumer: Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Author Unknown

Perfumer - François Demachy Author Unknown

Conversations Frank Voelkl Cris Rosa Negra

Meet the Perfumistas Karen Wheeler

Red Flower Power Laura Katzenberg

Chanel “Nose” Jacques Polge SunHee Grinnell

Bertrand Duchaufour & L’Artisan Parfumeur Oct. 2008 Ligo Shea

Heaven Scent: The Best Independent Perfuemrs Harriet Walker

Live from New York: Russian Middle Class Grows Nancy Jeffries

Scent Treks Through Time - Part XIII Marian Bendeth

How To Create Perfume: The Journey Of a Perfumer Patrica Ward

Jean Claude Ellena - Conference Presentation Author Unknown

The Smell of Success - Karyn Khoury Author Unknown

Scents Made to Suit Author Unknown

160 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

The Talke of a Nose - Luca Turin Jancis Robinson

On the Nose Emma Reinhold

‘Nose” Thierry Wasser Nov. 2008 Author Unknown

IFF - Helps Fashion Students Stiry Their Creative Juices Author Unknown

Symrise - Sponsors Six Scents to Benefit Adis Research Author Unknown

Bottling This Moment Sarah Caden

An Interview with Perfumer - Janna Sheehan, natural Author Unknown

Yes, I Inhaled, boasts a Man with Perfume in His Blood Helen Greenwood

Nathalie Feishauer Joins Symrise as Senior Perfumer Author Unknown

Perfumer - John Stephen Author Unknown

The Demise of Natural Perfume Ingredients from Grasse? Author Unknown

Awards for Symrise Perfumers Author Unknown

Obituary - Perfumer - Bruyère Passed Away Today Author Unknown

Laurent Bruyère & Mane Author Unknown

Smelly Masterpieces - Why is Great Perfume Not Taken More Seriously Angus Trumble

Perfumer - Lorenzo Dante Ferro Author Unknown

Jean-Michel Duriez - Named In House Perfumer Rochas Author Unknown

The Bespoke Perfumes of Paris Deidre Woollard

Scent Treks Through Time - Part XIV Marian Bendeth

Perfumer - Christophe Laudamiel - Creates Scent for Amanda Lepore Grant Osborne

Sniffing Auerlien Guichard - Givaudan Dec. 08 Raphaella Barkley

Dirty Secrets Frédéric Malle

161 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Sweet Scent of Success Nirmal Khanna

Myth Debunking I Author Unknown

Let us Spray Hannah Betts

Jean-Michel Duriez to Perfume Rochas Author Unknown

Making Scents - Azzi Glasser Kate Mikhail

Perfumers - Jean-Paul Guerlain & Thierry Wasser Emma Moore

Best-Kept-Secret Career: Creative Perfumer Marty Nemko

Scent Treks Through Time - Part XV Marian Bendeth

Perfumer/Author Michel Roudnitska Author Unknown

Interview with Linda Pilkington, Perfumer Jeca

The Sweet Smell of Success Steve Goldstein

Fragrance Resources: Making Moves Author Unknown

Finding the Perfect Perfume Tracy Nesdoly

The Guerrilla Perfumers - Mark & Simon Constantine Pia Long

Fragrance Marketing Campaign - Solicits Piano Compositions Author Unknown

Message In a Bottle Susanne S. Brown

An Interview with Mandy Aftel Walter Minton

Eau de Brilliance Alison Kerr 2009

Interview - Dawn M. Spencer Hurwitz Raphaella Barkley

Perfumer at Dullberg - Konzentra in Hamburg Author Unknown

Interview with Gail Adrian Bonnie Cehovet

162 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

ASP Perfumers’ Choice Awards Author Unknown

The Rising Star - Interview with Perfumer Rodrigo Roux Michelyn Camen

The Rising Star: Interview with Perfumer Yann Vasnier Michelyn Camen

Oman: A Perfumer’s Dream Rhona Wells

Editing Nature: a Look Inside Laboratoire Monique Remy Kelly Frederick

Serge Lutens Interview: “All of My Perfumes Are Sixty-Six Years Old” Author Unknown

Perfumes: The Guide - a Portal to a Whole New Art Charlotte Higgins

Frederick Malle Editions de Parfums Author Unknown

Q&A with Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Nathan Branch

Scent Sleuth: Fragrance Empowers Private Label Nancy C. Hayden

Invisible Attraction Tania Sanchez

Scent & the City - 5th Avenue Nights Author Unknown

Interview with Perfumer Sandrine Videault Author Unknown

The Nose Knows Author Unknown

Enzo Galardi - The Man Behind Odori & Bois 1920 Ali Nakhai

Point of View - An Opportunity to Reinvent the Fragrance Pascal Gaurin

Making Magic: Perfumer Cécile Krakower Stephanie Nolasco

The Sound of Perfume Grant Osborne

Interview with Natural Perfumer - Lyn Ayre Feb. 09 Author Unknown

The Sweet Scent of Success Emma Davies

An Interview with a Natural Perfumer - Lisa Fong Author Unknown

François Demachy and Dior Author Unknown

163 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Michael Edwards Strikes Partnership Melody Ng

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Q & A Author Unknown

Interview with Perfumer Claude Dir Author Unknown

Annick Goutal Un Matin d’Orage Author Unknown

Book Review - The Essence of Perfume - Roja Dove Ana McCoy

Perfumer Has a Nose for Simple Style Author Unknown

Green Aria - A Scent Opera Author Unknown

Sylvaine Delacourte - Answers Grain de Musc Author Unknown

Interview with a Perfumer - Isabelle Doyen March 09 Author Unknown

Buzz Without a Hangover Eric Wilson

Scent of a Celebrity Christopher Muther

Iso E Super - Its Merits, Is Faults Author Unknown

Hermès’ Master Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena Alexandra Marshall

Interview with Perfumer Michael Edwards Grant Osborne

Halloween Costumes: I Want to be a Perfumer! Author Unknown

Food for Thought Jeb-Gleason Allured

Interview - Perfumer - Patricia de Nicolaï Author Unknown

Interview with Dawn M. Spencer Hurwitz Raphaella Barkley

Aftel’s Living Perfume Exhibit at Bendel’s Grant Osborne

Interviewing a Self Taught Artist - Lorenzo Villoresi Author Unknown

Made In New York City - Perfume Author Unknown

Symrise Scent Trek to India Nancy Jeffries

164 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Seven Top Bespoke Perfumers Camilla Webster

What a Nose Camilla Webster

Interview with Master Perfumer Jean Claude Ellena Author Unknown

The Perfume of the Wind - An Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena Michel Camen

Old World Gets Fresh in Latest from Frederic Malle Renata Espinosa

Françoise Donce and Givenchy April 09 Author Unknown

Making Scents of It Marion Hume

Interview with Keiko Mecheri ( Passion for Perfume - Portrait ) Author Unknown

Movers & Shakers - Patricia Bilodeau, Perfumer Peachy Deegan

Exhibit Provides Sense of the Future Robert Campbell

Perfumer Dominique Ropion Marie-HeleneWagner

Perfumer Emilie Bouge Marie-HeleneWagner

Perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur Marie-HeleneWagner

Smelling Like Roses or Not Mildrade Cherfils

Jean-Claude Ellena - Making Sense of Making Scents Amy Verner

Neil Morris Perfumes Beth Schreibman Gehring

Natural Perfumer Exhibits at Bendel Julie Gordon

Interview - Perfumer - Stéphanie de Saint Aignan Author Unknown

Céline Ellena - An Interview with a Perfumer Author Unknown

Haute Parfumerie A. Tamjeed

The Chance of Renewing Author Unknown

Interview - Christophe Laudamiel Talks Author Unknown

165 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

IFF Explores Culinary Trends May 09 Nancy Jeffries

Interviewing Perfumer - Jean Paul Guerlain Author Unknown

Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel Christopher Muther

A Roja Dove Date Danielle Cooper

Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena In House Perfuemr for Hermes Michelyn Camen

Return to Scenter Nathalie Atkinson

Roja Dove - a Profile Danielle Cooper

Interviewing: Pierre-Constantin Gueros Author Unknown

Where We Are At in Fine Fragrance - 2009 Nathan Branch

An Interesting Conversation with Aurélien Guichard Author Unknown

Interview with Ilias Ermenidis Elena Knezevic

ASP Honors Perfumer Ellen Molner Mel Fabrikant

The Creative Pair From Guerlain: Sylvaine Delacourte & Thierry Wasser Author Unknown

This Opera Hasn’t Even Opened Alexandra Alter

Thierry Mugler is Back Sheryl Garratt

The Story of Geza Schoen’s Escentric Molecules Marian Buckley

The First Scent Opera is Here! Author Unknown

Making Scents Sarah Cristobal

We Ask Questions - Q & A with Linda Pilkington Author Unknown

My Spring with Artisan Perfumers, Part I Christane Gonçalves

The Nose Knows No Bounds Author Unknown

The Smell of Music Author Lubow

166 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Genie Behind the Bottle: Liza Wade

Perfumer - Jacques Polge - An Interview Author Unknown

IFF Celebrates Fifi Award Win Author Unknown

Perfumer - Jean Carles Author Unknown

Opera to Sniff at: A Score Offers Uncommon Scents June 09 Anthony Tommasini

My Spring with Artisan Perfumers, Part II Cristiane Gonçalves

The Nose Behind the Scents: Secrets of Perfume Making Author Unknown

Opening! Green Aria - a Scent Opera Author Unknown

Interview with Natural Perfumer - Joann Bassett Author Unknown

An Interview with Natural Perfumer Cirstiane Gonçalves

Interview with Perfumer - Thorsten Biehl Cristiane Gonçalves

Jean Claude Ellena & Hermès Author Unknown

Green Aria: An Opera for Your Nose Amanda Gefter

Conversation - Star Perfumer Maurice Roucel, Symrise Author Unknown

Thierry Mugler Sponsors - IFF Competition Rebecca Mann

Laura Stern - Natural Perfumer Raphaella Barkley

Meet Jean Claude Elenna - The In House Perfumer Michelyn Camen

Valentino Rock’n Dreams ( 2009 ): Author Unknown

Scentsation Author Unknown

Scent of a Woman Author Unknown

The Nose of Guerlain Archana Subramanian

An Interview with Natural Perfumer Roxana Villa Author Unknown

167 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

An Interview with Johann Maria Farina Tom Clark

Perfumers Breathe in Sales Data, & Strategize Chandler Burr

IFF Promotes Several Senior Perfumers Guy Montague-Jones

Biography of Ann Gottlieb - Her Career Author Unknown

Fragrance Marketing - Pierce Mattie Interviews Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian Pierce Mattie

Linda Pilkington of Ormondy Jayne Perfumery London Author Unknown

Smelling a Rose Through a Rose-Tinted Nose July 09 Mariani Dewi

Thierry Mugler Sponsors - IFF Competition @ The Royal College Rebecca Mann

Scents of Self David Meagher

Miller Harris’s Bespoke Perfumes Lauren Sozio

Aerin Lauder’s Newest Addition to the Estee Lauder Private Roopika Malhotra

Interview - Perfumer - Bertrand Duchaufour Author Unknown

Lifestyle: Notes From the Côte Josphine Fiarley

Perfumer Roxana Villa - The Oaky Scent of Philanthropy Megan Walla-Murphy

A Life Less Ordinary April Long

Fragrance Bottle Designer - Pierre Dinand, an Interview Julien Levy

Karine Dubreuil & Mane Author Unknown

A Visit with Linda Pilkington ( Ormonde Jayne Perfumery ) Author Unknown

Interview with Perfumer - Olivier Gillotin Author Unknown

Exclusive Interview with Michel Roudnitska Michelyn Camen

Study Notes: Back to School Pia Long

Vetiver Men’s Perfume Eau de Toilette Nina Saville

168 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Estee Lauder - Story of Ungaro Lauder Perfume August 09 Yuri Gutsatz

Yuri Gutsatz - An Artist Extrodinary Author Unknown

Givaudan - Sensing an Opportunity Katie Rodgers

Fläkt Woods Creates Air System for NY ‘Scent Opera’ Greg Pitcher

An Interview with Perfumer - Mathilde Laurent Author Unknown

2009 SCS Spring Symposium Author Unknown

Fabrice Penot Author Unknown

Field Notes from Paris William O’Such

Scenting Women Lim Ai Lee

The ( Not So ) Glamorous World of Fragrances Nathan Motylinski

Scents and Sensibility Franck Ferrand

Scents & the City Rym Ghazal

Introduction to Perfumery by Anne McClain Jinal Shah

The Sweet Smell of Success Author Unknown

Bringing Back the Original Craftsman Perfumer Bonnie Kimberly Taylor

Comparing Notes: Carlos Benaim, Pascal Gaurin & Laurent Le Guernec Jeb Allured Gleason

Learning to Let Go: Perfumers & Teamwork Jeb Allured Gleason

Designers to Create Scents for Charity Author Unknown

Vintage Perfume - Mitsouko by Guerlain Victoria Robinson

Jicky by Guerlain Victoria Robinson

Perfumery Schools Author Unknown

The Creative Pair from Chanel: Jacques Polge & Chrostopher Sheldrake Author Unknown

169 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Inside the Creative Mind of Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour Michelyn Camen

Perfume Studio Master Class at Bloomingdale’s Carly Zinderman

Perfumer - Laurent Le Guernec Author Unknown

Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian Goes Bespoke Author Unknown

Perfumer My Gig Amanda Coggin

Interview with French Perfumer Blaise Mautin Simone Shitrit

Miller Harris Launches in Dubai Author Unknown

Ernest Beaux Author Unknown

Entrevista com o Perfumista Blaise Mautin Simone Shitrit

Interviewing Pierre Guillaume a Perfumer Author Unknown

An Interview with Sarah Horowitz Author Unknown

The Perfumer & the Fixation Process Remy Baker

Entrevista com um Perfumista de Sucesso! Napoleão Bastos Jr. Simone Shitrit

Why Luca Turin Stopped His Quarterly Updates to the Guide Abdes Salaam Attar

Interview with a Perfumer:Kristen Michèle Violet Devereaux

Exclusive Interview with Ralf Schwieger Michelyn Camen

Scents & Sensibility Susan Kurosawa

Guerlain’s Inhouse Perfumer Thierry Wasser David Lackie

“One Drop Changes Everything” Author Unknown

Sweet Scents & Classic Revivals Katie Bird

The Scent Of England Emma Hartley

Why Francis Kurkdjian is a Great Perfumer Author Unknown

170 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Interview with 7th Generation Perfumer Oliver Creed Author Unknown

Pauline Zanoni & Lancome Author Unknown

Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian Comes to Los Angeles Merle Ginsberg

Guerlain’s Idylle Man Eva Friede

Perfumista Tip: On Reformulations Robin

Interview with Fabrice Penot of Le Labo Jessica Herman

First Look Fridays: Perfumer Maria McElroy Oct. 2009 Jamie

Interview with Perfumer Lynn Harris Anthony Rose

Perfume Talk with Yosh Han Simone Shitrit

Wine Will Never Smell the Same Again - Luca Turin Alder

Interviewing Perfumer Spencer Krenke Author Unknown

The Wunderkind of Perfumery - Franics Kurkdjian Michelyn Camen

Takasago & Dominique Gindre Author Unknown

Inspiration in Perfumery Author Unknown

Interview with Natural Perfumer Persephenie Author Unknown

The Scent of a Designer: Purple Couches? Elva Ramirez

Perfume Make - Designer Style April Long

An Interview with Perfumer Linda Kramer Author Unknown

Interview with Fragrance Designer Raymond Matts Author Unknown

Smell is Memory Insists Perfumer Thierry Wasser Author Unnown

Interview with Perfumer - Annie Buzantian Author Unknown

Interview with Perfumer Roger Broudoux Author Unknown

171 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Six Scents Author Unknown

Emperor of an Invisible Kingdom - Paris Perfumer Richard Fraysse dpa

Evoking Thoughts with Fragrance Author Unknown

Fragrance Trends & Jean Claude Ellena Author Unknown

Interview - Synthetics to Shalimar - Chandler Burr Nina Sinatra

Dream Job - Perfumer Jessica Griggs

Mathilde Laurent Respons to Questions Author Unknown

Jacques Flori and Robertet Author Unknown

Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps, the Legendary Fragrance Inessa Hyder

Perfumer Oliver Polge Wins Top Prize Author Unknown

They Smell Like Nature Romina McGuinness

Modern Perfume Classics - Samsara Victoria Robinson

Interview with Perfumer Rodrigo Flores Roux Michelyn Camen

Designer - Massimo Ferragamo - An Interview Author Unknown

PFW’s Patchwood Perfumery Contest Paul Hodges

An Interview with Perfumer Delphine Jelk Author Unknown

Patricia de Nicolai In Partnership Author Unknown

Interiors - The Paris Flat of the Perfumer Jacques Polge Elfreda Pownall

The Rising Star: Inerview with Perfumer Yann Vasnier Nov. 09 Author Unknown

Studio Visit - Sissel Tolaas Scent Expert Monica Khemsurov

News Special: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Sandra Rose

First Person - ‘I can Identify 1,000 Different Scents’ Rob Sharp

172 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Entrevista: Givaudan Perfumista Thierry Bessard Author Unknown

Vain Glorious | Maison Francis Kurkdjian Christine Muhlke

Glamorous Inspirations Archana Subramanian

43rd Amendment Takes Effect Banning Chypre Fragrances Inessa Hayder

Perfume Scents Dudley Benjamin

Interview with Joao Carlos Basilio Da Silva Cristiane Gonçalves

Romantic Notes - Interview with Perfumer Dominique Ropion Wong Li Za

Whiffs of Memory as Art Author Unknown

Exclusive Interview with Romano Ricci Michelyn Camen

An Interview with a Natural Perfumer Dominique Durbana Author Unknown

Perfumier Stephane Humbert Lucas Discusses Nez Elizabeth Monson

Photos: Ineke Field Notes From Paris Nathan Branch

Scent Profile: Lorenzo Villoresi - Perfume Artisian Allison O’Rourke

Five Minutes with Fabrice Penot Mel Cornford

Exclusive Interview with Geza Schoen Michelyn Camen

The Scent Detective - How to Sniff Out Fragrances Dec. 09 Maggie Bullock

Creating the First Fragrance of the 21st Century Author Unknown

Bottling the Scent of Sydney Helen Greenwood

A “Green” Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena Fabienne Antoniewski

The Power of Fragrance Sarah Maisey

Interview with Perfumer - François-Raphaël Balestra Anthéa Gutknecht

Enrico Scartezzini & M&M Fragrances Author Unknown

173 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Making Scents Jessica Hume

Perfumes, The Perfumer and the Fixation Process Remy Baker

Thierry Wasser, a Considerable Interview Authors Unknown

Rose In Zurich: Andy Tauer’s Une Chypre Rose Michelyn Camen

Now Smell This, and See Its Maker Terry Trucco

Interview - Della Chuang Simone Shitrit

Fragrance Trends in 2010 - Spot a Brighter Future Author Unknown

Fragrance Trends in 2010 - Be Your Own Nose Author Unknown

Fragrance Trends in 2010 - Tell a Tale Author Unknown

Ineke Rühland - Perfumer San Francisco Author Unknown

Natural Perfumers Wish You a Happy Holiday Author Unknown

Now Smell This, and See Its Maker Terry Trucco

Perfumer - David Apel - An Interview Author Unknown

Interview With Olivier Gillotin - Givaudan Senior Perfumer Cristiane Gonçalves 2010

The Perfumers Association Bands Popular Perfumes Inessa Hayder

Emile Copperman & Symrise Author Unknown

Breaking the Mould Libby Banks

Captive Cabernet Neil Pendock

Symrise: Flavours and Fragrances Lim Yan Wen

An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer, Mike Parrott Grant Osborne

An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer, Beverley Bayne Grant Osborne

174 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer, David Ruskin Grant Osborne

Perfumes: The A-Z Guide Anastasia Hendrix

Memories of Bint el Sudan Alison Bate

Pierre Guillaume: Chemistry and Alchemy Michelyn Camen

Renowned Natural Perfumer Mandy Aftel Author Unknown

Fracas by Robert Piquet Victoria Robinson

Best Men’s Fragrances - Dior Eau Sauvage Victoria Robinson

IFF Perfumer - Juliette Karagueuzoglou Wins 2010 Author Unknown

New Fragrance is Classical Not Retro David Livingstone

Candle Companies - Banking on The Power of Fragrance Kim Kimzey

Perfumer - François Demachy - An Interview Feb. 2010 Author Unknown

Wall Street Journal Highlights Tucson Perfumer Jamie Manser

Bandit by Robert Piguet Victoria Robinson

Interview - Perfumer - Isabelle Doyen Author Unknown

The Art of Natural Perfumery Tatiana Serafin

Instyle Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Author Unknown

A Short Interview with Perfumer - Daniel Vaudd Author Unknown

Francis Kurkdjian & Takasago Author Unknown

A Real Perfumer on Corporate Perfume Erin Weinger

Perfume Designer - Clara Molloy Author Unknown

An Interview with Alec Lawless of Essentially Me Walker Minton

Oman’s Royal Family - Scents Global Profit Daniela Deane

175 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Legendary Perfumer - Ernest Beaux of Chanel Author Unknown

Scents & Sensibility - The Osmothèque Franck Ferrand

Meet the Green Goddesses of Natural Perfume Michelyn Camen

Global Art of Perfumes Katie Nichol

Let Me Dream a Perfect Scent: Timothy John Hieronimuss

DelRae Roth - an Interview Author Unknown

Art and Matter - How to Sculpt the Molecule ( Part I ) March 2010 Sabine Chabbert

Indulge In the Ruth Mastenbroek Fragrance Author Unknown

Perfume Fountain Planned for Brooklyn Deidre Woolard

Headspace on Scent as Design Author Unknown

Perfumer - Francis Kurkdjian - An Interview Author Unknown

Headspace: A Symposium on Scent as Design Author Unknown

The Prize of Luxury ( Interview with Erwin Creed ) Author Unknown

Art and Matter - How to Sculpt the Molecule ( Part II ) Sabine Chabbert

Luxury Doesn’t Have to be Expensive’ Margaret Kemp

A Beautiful Mind Viola Levy

An Interview with Perfumer Will Andrews Author Unknown

Olfactory Pursuits Vivienne Khoo

In Memoriam Perfumer Béatrice Piquet Marie Helene Wagner

Interview with a Perfumer Andy Tauer Author Unknown

Perfumery Professions - Marie Petit, Naming Author Unknown

Natural Perfumer - Liza Zorn, an Interview Author Unknown

180 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Scent as Design Eva Wisten

Lorenzo Villoresi Author Unknown

Say It With Scent Stephanie Rivers

Global Art of Perfumes Author Unknown

Choosing the Right Scent: Artisian Perfumer Frederic Malle Nana-Adwoa Ofori

Sweet Stank of Innovation Linda Tischler

Meet Arthur Burnham, A Perfumer Author Unknown

Making Scents Adam Zacharias

Alexander Lee - An American Perfume Student in Paris Author Unknown

A Rose by Another Name April 2010 Corby Kummer

Perfumer - Rodrigo Flores- Roux - An Interview Author Unknown

Quick Sniffs - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Nathan Branch

Yosh Han, The Magic of Custom Scents Jenn Klein

The Results Are In: The Patchwood Perfumery Contest Paul Hodges

Christine Nagel & Fragrance Resources Author Unknown

Sniffing Out Scent Clues to New Classics Nancy Hayden

Fresh Relaxing Carefree: Green Tea Lavender Fragrance Author Unknown

Art that Enters Through the Nose Michael Stenski

Perfumes of the Land and Sea Dr. John King

Interview - Life Is a Perfume - JoAnne Bassett Author Unknown

The Scent of Wine & Chocolate Author Unknown

Tauer Perfumes Orange Star Nathan Branch

181 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

The Osmothèque: A Perfume Museum & Library Jamie B

L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain - Perfume Review Victoria Robinson

Perfumery Professions: Stéphane Piquart, “Sourcer” Author Unknown

A Voyage of Discovery with Ormonde Jayne’s Danielle Cooper

Jean-Claude Ellena’s Latest Reflections on Perfumery Author Unknown

Scent of a Pontianak - Tuberose Vivienne Khoo

Interview: Perfumer Vajra Wright JoSelle Vanderhooft

Visualizing the Invisible - Michel Roudnitska Marlene Goldsmith

Interview with Natural Perfumer - Ayala Sender Raphaella Brescia Barkley

What’s New in Princeton & Central New Jersey? Scott Morgan

Making Scents Author Unknown

1000 Flowers Reglissee Noire-Olfactory Black Jujubes Mark Behnke

Following Her Nose May 2010 Siobhán Dowling

Interview- Maurice Roucel, Master Perfumer Anne Lueneburger

Philippe Romano & Drom International Author Unknown

Interview: Natural Perfumer Gary Lodato JoSelle Vanderhott

Scent Dinner - Chandler Burr Chandler Burr

L’Osmothèque Preserving The Past To Ensure The Future Sarah Cotton

Perfumer - Alexis Dadier - An Interview Author Unknown

Led Around by Our Noss Richard Gray

The Fragrance Industry & The Golden Boomer Consumer Nathan Branch

The Nose Knows - Sandra Anderson natural Kim Triegaardt

178 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Interview with Perfumer & Owner Tanja Bochhnig Author Unknown

Vol de Nuit - Perfume Review Victoria Robinson

An Interview With Botanical Natural Perfumer Justine Crane Author Unknown

Sissel Tolaas Tells the Rubes How They Smell Avery Gilbert

Tranquil Notes Patsy Kam

Snapshots From My Visit to a Fragrance Field Author Unknown

Marie Benoît’s Diary Marie Benoit

What Does Singapore Smell of? Vivienne Khoo

Lorenzo Dante Ferro June 2010 Author Unknown

Humiecki & Graef Bosque: Laudable Laudamie Mark Behnke

Givaudan - Looks to Rare Species for Inspiration Katie Bird

The Move to Restrict Perfume Ingredients Rebecca Johnson

Making Flowers Into Perfume Michael Tortorello

Holy Smoke & Good Oudh Vivienne Khoo

A More Perfect Scent - A Perfume Addict Goes Organic Amanda Walker

Scent Branding Sweeps the Fragrance Industry Spencer Morgan

Perfumery Schools Michelle Renee

Uncommon Scents: The Rise of Unisex Fragrances Author Unknown

Talking Nose Nicola

Romancing the Whale Vivienne Khoo

Scent Branding Spencer Morgan

Firmenich & Master Perfumer Harry Fremont Author Unknown

179 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Alberto Morillas & Firmenich July 2010 Author Unknown

How to Make Your Own Perfume Mistra Ini

The Lost Interview with Perfumer - Bertrand Duchaufour Michelyn Camen

The Mystery of Musk Skye Miller

The Perfumer - Jean Paul Guerlain Atanova Lydia

Passing the Sniff Test Stephanie Findlay

The Scent of Asphalt Tim Grivin

Moriel’s Natural Scents Subtle & Intimate Sarah Rowland

Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian - Entertians in the City of Light Author Unknown

Diaghilev by Roja Dove Victoria Robinson

Reglisse Noire by 1000 Flowers Author Unknown

Eau Manny - Boxer Pacquiao Markets His Own Cologne Gendy Alimurung

Requirements for Chemistry Perfume Careers Alessandra Lotuaco

Perfumers Decrypt, How to Have a Virgin Fragrance Marie Wright

Genderless Perfumes - By Karl Lagerfield Author Unknown

The Watermill Center Benefit Douglas Harrington

Fragrance - Something in the Air Author Unknown

Think Perfumers Only Make Perfumes? Author Unknown

Q&A with Perfumer Carina Chazanas Samantha Antopol

Perfumery Professions: Françoise Donche, Givenchy’s Fragrance Expert Author Unknown

Cancer & the Queen - Jasmin Vivienne Khoo

Select the Perfect Scent for Your Wedding Day Jessica Pauline Ogilvie

180 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Antoine Maisondieu & Givaudan Author Unknown

Scents & Sensibility Vir Sanghvi

The History of Perfume Michael Bywater

Perfumer - Jean Claude Elenna Vir Sahghvi

Jardins de Bagatelle - Perfume Review Aug. 2010 Victoria Robinson

Smellscape - Sissel Tolaas Christina Agapakis

Fragrance Review: Ralpha Lauren’s Bit Pony II Chandler Burr

Sights Meet Smells at the Denver Art Museum Sari Padorr

The Artisan Series: Andy Tauer ( Part II ) Nathan Branch

Perfumery Professions: Ann Gottlieb Author Unknown

How Michelle Bam - Helped Miller Harris’ Business Liz Hoggard

Exploring the Market of Men’s Perfume Vir Sanghvi

Aftelier: Long-Distance Bespoke Fragrance Service Nathan Branch

The Artisan Series: Andy Tauer ( Part III ) Nathan Branch

Has the Fragrance Market Reached Saturation Point? Author Unknown

Winner By a Nose Sept. 2010 S.S. Yoga

From the Front - Roja Dove Haute Perfumerie Julia Rebaudo

Something Old, Something Bleu S.S. Yoga

Questions & Answers with Legendary Chanel Perfumer Stéphane Gaboué

Oliver Polge & IFF Author Unknown

Maria McElroy: Interview With a Perfumer Violet Devereaux

Christophe Laudamiel - Perfumer Author Unknown

181 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

The Most Interesting Fragrances Carla Long

Sketch & Sniff: The New Cross-sensory Fragrances Pei-Ru Keh

Perfumer - Francis Kurkjidian Absolue Pour Le Soir Fragrance Catherine Saint Louis 1025

Ruth Mastenbroek - Talks About Her First Eau de Parfum Grant Osborne

The Language of Fragrance - Christoph Laudamiel Andrew Dermont

Creating the Scent of a Virgin Author Unknown

Yosh Han Mixes Your Special Scent - Take a Whiff Steve Rubenstein

An Audience With Jean-Paul Guerlain & Thierry Wasser Persolaise

How We Met: Jane Birkin & Lyn Harris Rhiannon Haries

Perfumery Professions - Theirry de Baschmakoff Author Unknown

An Evening with Francis Kurkdjian Grant Osborne

Jean-Paul Guerlain’s New Book - Parfums d’Amour Author Unknown

ODin 4 Petrana: Desert in Bloom Mark Behnke

Interview with Pierre Guillaume: Huitieme Art Perfumes Michelyn Camen

Mandy Aftel & Andy Tauer: Letters to a Fellow Perfumer Nathan Branch

Roja Dove - The ( Professor of Perfume ) Persolaise

A Chaque Parfum sa Tenue Guillaume Crouzet

Symrise Establishes Perfumery School in India Author Unknown

Interview With a Natural Perfumer: Kristen Dunagan Oct. 2010 Violet Devereaux

Art of Fragrance Lecture March

An Evening of European Perfumery at Harrods Persolaise

How to: Make Your Own Scratch-And-Sniff Map Nicola Twilley

182 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Symrise Establishes Perfumery School in India Author Unknown

Best Bet: Create Your Own Custom Scent Anne McClain

Live, From New York Its Bertrand Duchaufour Michelyn Camen

Eau My! David Light

Symrise Opens Perfuemry Academy in India Nicola Popplewell

The Science of Scent at Harrods Perfume Diaries Nick Gilbert

The Samurai Shopper | My Favorite Nose S.S. Fair

Francis Kurkdjian: Recipe For a Great Perfumer Author Unknown

Bois Noire or Egoiste - Chanel’s Jacques Polge Explains Author Unknown

Ajmal: A Tradition that Lingers Parimita Barooah Bora

Top French Perfumer: ‘I set myself to Work Like a Nigger’ Author Unknown

Guerlain’s - $ 19,000 Perfume Amy Ma

Bottled By Baccarat - The Final Event at Harrods Author Unknown

An Interview with Chanel Perfumer Jacques Polge Stéphane Gaboué

The House of Creed’s Young Heir Plans a U.S. Tour Author Uknown

The Escentric World of a Beautiful Mind - Geza Schoen Nov. 2010 Michelyn Camen

Erwin Creed Thinks Finding the Right Perfume Lauren Murrow

Herr “Professor” Geza Schoen - Gives a Chemistry Lesson Mark Behnke

The Art of Composing Fragrance, Naturally Yuko Fukami

Interview with Jessica September Buchanan of 1000 Flowers Michelyn Camen

French Fragrance Prince Talks Scents at Fashion Island Cindy McNatt

Blogging The Forbidden - Exclusive Interview with Denyse Beaulieu Persolaise

183 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

10 Questions to Frédéric Malle Author Unknown

Interview with Sylvie Ganter Michelyn Camen

Esscentual Alchemy: Perfumes by Amanda Feeley Monica “Skye” Miller

Behind The Fragrance Dec. 2010 Author Unknown

Michael Edwards - Tracks the Risking Importance Melody Ng

A New French School of Perfumery Marie Helene Wagne

Roja Dove is Making Sense of Scents Helen Greenwood

Odour Classification of Perfumes Savitha C. Muppala

Chemical Romance: How Did Chemists Become Erin McAvoy

Perfume Scent From Childhood Andrea Klassen

Interview: Roja Dove, Perfumer Lee Randall

Symrise Perfumery School Opens in India Author Unknown

Scent of a Woman - Patricia de Nicolai, 54 Nathalie Atkinson

Cooking with Angel Marcy Goldman

Sweet Smell of Success Author Unknown

184 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

The Interviews

Name of Article Year Author

1930 - 2006

Interview with Edmond Roudnitska 1993 Author Unknown

From a Perfumer’s Point of View 2000 Author Unknown

Interview With Michael Edwards Grant Osborne

The Nose Knows - Jean Michel Duriez Mathilde Gendron

Interview With Marian Bendeth Grant Osborne

Interview with Perfumer Christin Nagel 2002 Bernard Bourgeons

An Interview with Perfumer - Alberto Morillas Author Unknown

Making Scents - Lorenzo Villoresi - Secrets of the Art Author Unknown

Jacques Polge - An Interview Anette Green

Nathalie Lorson - Perfumer - Firmenich Author Unknown

Creativity in Perfumery? 2003 Author Unknown

Good Scents - Mandy Aftel Bary Caine

Interview de Fabrice Pellegrin Author Unknown

185 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

The High School Classroom - Interview with - Laudamiel 2004 Author Unknown

Right Under His Nose - An Interview with Jacques Polge Jeremy Josephs

Scents & Sensibility - Dr. George Dodd Author Unknown

Luca Turin’s Presentation to the BSP Clio Vidal

Michael Edwards Presentation to BSP Clio Vidal & Helene Pizet

Innter Global Fashion Trends - Lynn Harris JCR

Genius With a Bottle Author Unknown

Scent & the City Author Unknown

French Master-Perfumer Even Dreams of Scents Caroline Brothers

Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Gives Her Favourite Novels Thomas Pettifor

Scents & Suitability - Lynn Harris Geraldine Bedell

Scents & Sensibility - Perfumer Yosh Han Anastasia Hendrix

Interview with Perfumer Jean Kerlo 2005 Annick Vandorpe

Givaudan Perfumer Has Nose for Success Natalia Dudareva

Caroline Sabas - Givaudan Perfumer Author Unknown

Vive La Vie - The House of Roure Author Unknown

Strong, Man Author Unknown

Luca Turin’s Perfume Criticism Chandler Burr

The Alchemist’s Life - Mandy Aftel Anastasia Hendrix

Try Some Play-Doh Behind Your Ears Alex Kuczynski

Doean Pickett - The Nose Knows Clyde Park

Scent Of the Young & Happy Author Unknown

186 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

An Excellent Nose for Business Auhor Unknown

An Interview with Alexandra Balahoutis Robin

An Interview With Yann Vasnier Author Unknown

Natural Perfumery: Conversation with Mandy Aftel Author Unknown

Interview with Michel Roudnitska Author Unknown

On the Rise: The Scent of Rubber Cement Author Unknown

An Interview with Lorenzo Villoresi Robin

The Nose Has Its’ Reasons David Colman

Beauty Beat: Goutal’s Lates Scent a Dream... 2006 Ellen Groves

What Are Set to Be The Hotest Fragrance Notes in 2006? Author Unknown

Perfumer Draws Fire Over a Scent Called ‘Peace’ Ruth La Ferla

Master Perfumer Jean-Calude Ellena Mark Grischke

Sophia Grojsman of IFF Author Unknown

Interview with Perfumer Sophia Grojsman Author Unknown

Channeling Chanel Alison Kerr

A Conversation with - Jacques Polge Annette Green

The Perfect Perfume Author Unknown

An Interview with René Laruelle Marlen Harrison

Perfumer Jean Michael Duriez is On the Scent of the Next Big Thing Clifford Pugh

The Life of a Perfumer Author Unknown

Portrait Of an Artist - Ralf Schwieger Author Unknown

Fishy Perfume of Sydney Gets Up Frenchman’s Nose Georgina Safe

187 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Perfume Scoop! Ineke Perfumer San Francisco Catilin Shortell

An Interview with Ayala Sender Grant Osborne

An Interview with The New York Times - Perfume Critic Grant Osborne

Eau D’New York in the Summer Beth Fertig

The Sweat Hog Susie Rushtons

Fragrance - Travel Notes Lesa Hannah

Roja Dove’s Aromatic Adventures Ian McCurrach

Spotlight: The Precise Smell of Success Caroline Brothers

An Interview with Alexandra Balahoutis Danielle Osborne

What the Nose Knows Author Unknown

It All Makes Sense Susie Rushton

Birth of a Perfume Author Unknown

Heaven Scents Susie Rushton

Interview - Alain Boucheron Anette Green

Interview - Massimo Ferragamo Anette Green

Interview - Carolina Herrera Anette Green

Interview - Karl Lagerfield Anette Green

Interview - Donna Karan Anette Green

Interview - Lolita Lempicka Anette Green

Interview - Bob Mackie Anette Green

Interview - Nicole Miller Anette Green

Interview - Paco Rabanne Anette Green

188 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Interview - Sonia Rykiel Anette Green

Interview - Yves Saint Laurent Anette Green

Interview - Anna Sui Anette Green

Interview - Vivienne Westwood Anette Green 2007

The Art of Perfume Allison O’Rourke

Conversations: Laurice Rahme of Bond No. 9 Marlen Harrison

Perfect Scents Edwina Ings- Chambers

Scented Memories Dzireena Mahadzir

IFF’s Christophe Laudamiel Talks Scents Author Unknown

Sales Guide - Counter Assistance Roja Dove

An Interview with Christopher Chong Marie Helene Wagner

Exposing the Perfumer Krell Kydd

Beauty Box: Lynn Harris, Perfumer Author Unknown

Firmenich Perfumer - Alberto Morallis Sandra Low

Down with Perfume Tim McKeough

Coming Up Smelling Roses Helen Greenwood

Perfumer Neil Morris Interview Mark David

Neil Morris: The Proust of Perfume Michelyn Camen

Spending Quality Time with Isabelle Doyen & Camille Goutal Marcello Aspira

Conversations: Serena Ava France of Ava-Luxe Minsun Lee

189 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Conversations: Andy Tauer Marlen Harsen

Paris Made to Measure Author Unknown

Interview with Nicolas Olczyk Marie-HeleneWagner

Conversations: Lorenzo Villoresi Ermano

What’s In a Summer Scent? Sarah Horrocks

So You Want to Work in Fragrance & Cosmetic Science Liz Ford

Eau d’Embargo Pranay Gupte

The Interpreter of Accords - Laurent Assoulen Marian Bendeth

Perfumer Daniela ( Roche ) Andrier Marie Helene Wagner

Q & A with Fabrice Penot of Le Labo Marie Helene Wagner

Shiloh - A Perfume & a Baby Joe Bargmann

Interview with a Perfumer - Celene Elenna David Pescovitz

Conversations: Sharon Bolton Livia Scarcella

The Life of a Perfumer Sarrah Horrocks

Conversations: Sarah Horowitz - Thran Bernadette

Marie Salamagne, Perfumer - An Interview Author Unknown

An Interview with San Francisco Based Perfumer, Ineke Ruhland Grant Osborne

The Sweet Smell of Success - Jacques Polge Author Unknown

Interview with Chandler Burr - Perfume Critic Mark David Boberick

The Man Behind the Hat: An Interview with Romano Ricci Marian Bendeth

Conversations: Laurie Erickson Ashne

Interview With a Perfumer: Jean Jacques Author Unknown

190 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Conversations: Gilles Thevenin of Lubin Sergey

An Interview with Perfumer Jean Claude Elenna Lanie Goodman

Conversations: Lorenzo Villoresi Ermano

Conversations: Jo Hook Livia Scarcella

Conversations: JoAnne Bassett, Natural Perfumer Marlen Harrison

Interview with Roja Dove Marie Helen Wagner

Making Scents: Natural Perfumery Jan DeGrass

Natural Perfumery - An Art Jn De Grass

Isabelle Aurel - Explorers a World of Scent Author Unknown

The Smell of Money Janet Kersnar

The Editor Meets Roja Dove Caroline Lucey

Scent of Success for Woman with Nose for Business Jill Armstrong

The Fragonard Perfume Launch Chandler Burr

Whiff of Haute Couture Fragrance, - Perfumer Frederic Malle Sylvia Rubin

Clearing the Air: In Praise of Synthetics Bruce Garlick 2008

Jean-Pierre Bethouart - Perfumer Author Unknown

Annie Buzantian - Perfumer - Firmenich Author Unknown

Jacques Cavallier - Perfumer Author Unknown

Oliver Cresp - Perfumer Author Unknown

Isabelle Doyen - Perfumer Author Unknown

Elisabeth de Feydeau - Historian Author Unknown

191 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Celine Elenna - Perfumer Author Unknown

Interview ‘Etal Libre d’Orange’ - Perfumer Author Unknown

A “Green” Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena Author Unknown

Hervé Gambs Author Unknown

Aurélien Guichard - Perfumer Author Unknown

Nathalie Lorson - Perfumer - Firmenich Author Unknown

Clara Molly - Perfumer Author Unknown

Fabrice Penot - Designer Author Unknown

Laurice Rahme - Perfumery Author Unknown

Romano Ricci - Designer Author Unknown

Ineke Ruhland - Perfumer Author Unknown

Stéphanie de Saint Aignan - Perfumer Author Unknown

Marie Salamagne - Perfumer Author Unknown

Sara Horowitz Thran - Perfumer Author Unknown

Frank Voelkl - Perfumer Author Unknown

Perfumer - Alberto Morillas Author Unknown

An Interview with Perfumer - Ulrich Lang Danielle Cooper

Conversations: Russell Newell, Social Creatures Marlen Harrison

Conversations: An Interview with Marian Bendeth Sali Oguri

Perfumer’s Interview Author Unknown

Collaborations & the Golden Rule Feb. 2008 Jeff Falk

Conversations: Janna Sheehan of Trance Essence Marlen Harrison

192 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Smells of London - Roja Dove Maggie Davis

The Italian Nose: Laura Tonatto Lisa-Anne Sanderson

Indie Designer Interviews: Vmagique Perfume Oils Mallory Whitfield

Conversations: Raffy of Parfums Raffy Marlen Harrison

Conversations: Kedra Hart of Opus Oils Livia Scarcella

Business Relies on Noses for Its Profits Michael L. Diamond

Leading by a Nose - Perfumer Anne Gottleib Diana Uy

Interview with Perfumer Egon Oelkers Marie HeleneWagner

Christophe Laudamiel: Prfume in a Poem Author Unknown

Uncommon Scents - Roja Dove Stella

Interview with a Perfumer: Kristen Michèle April 2008 Violet Devereaux

Interview with Natural Perfumer Laurie Stone Author Unknown

A “Green” Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena Fabienne Antoniewski

An Interview with Ulrich Lang Danielle Cooper

Everyone’s A Critic - Luca Turin Ruth La Ferla

To Smell & Back - Perfume Critic Chandler Burr Beth Luberecki

Conversations with Ulrich Lang June 2008 Ermano

Serge Lutens Interview: Stakes & Professions Author Unknown

Conversations: The Creators of Le Labo Cris Rosa Negra

Conversations with Anya McCoy Marlen Harrison

The Talk; Liquid Assets Phoebe Eaton

Il Fragrance Delecto Marian Bendeth

193 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Coming Up Roses’ Jean Patou’s Perfumer - Michael Durez Author Unknown

An Interview with Perfumer - Olivia Giacobetti Author Unknown

Jean Claude Ellena - Q & A Author Unknown

Scents of Home Interview with IFF Perfumer - Subha Patel Vicki Hyman

Scent Trek Through Time - Part I Marian Bendeth

Scent Treks Through Time - Part III Marian Bendeth

Scent Treks Through Time - Park IV July 2008 Marian Bendeth

Scent Treks Through Time - Part V Marian Bendeth

Conversations: Liz Zorn of Soivohle’ Abigail

Scent Treks Through Time - Part VI Marian Bendeth

Scent Treks Through Time - Part VII Marian Bendeth

Scent Treks Through Time - Part VIII Marian Bendeth

I Do Everything Classic with a Twist - Perfumer Romano Ricci Gemma Champ

Conversations: George Wuchsa of First in Fragrance Marlen Harrison

Scent Treks Through Time - Part VIIII Marian Bendeth

Perfume Choice More than Skin Deep Emmy Fitri

Scent Treks Through Time - Part X Marian Bendeth

Robert Piguet | Designer, Scentmaker, Legend Tim Girvin

The Perfumer Who Hates Perfume - Christopher Brosius Liz Upton

An Interview with Bertrand Duchaufour Michelyn Camen

Scent Treks Through Time - Part XI Aug. 2008 Marian Bendeth

Filling the Gilded Shoes of Guerlain - Thierry Wasser Marian Bendeth

194 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Small-Batch, big-Passion Scent Elizabeth Wellington

Conversations: Michael Storer Livia Scarcella

Perfumer Disdains Common Scents Dee De Pass

Interview with Perfumer Linsa Kramer Author Unknown

Scent Treks Through Time - Part XII Marian Bendeth

Romano Ricci - Perfumer Author Unknown

Conversations: Neil Morris Abigail

Natural Perfumers: Ayala Moriel, Claude Andre Hebert Nathan Branch

Interview with a Perfumer: Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Author Unknown

Perfumer - François Demachy Author Unknown

Conversations Frank Voelkl Cris Rosa Negra

Chanel “Nose” Jacques Polge SunHee Grinnell

Scent Treks Through Time - Part XIII Marian Bendeth

Jean Claude Ellena - Conference Presentation Author Unknown

The Smell of Success - Karyn Khoury Author Unknown

On the Nose Emma Reinhold

‘Nose” Thierry Wasser Nov. 2008 Author Unknown

An Interview with Perfumer - Janna Sheehan, natural Author Unknown

Yes, I Inhaled, boasts a Man with Perfume in His Blood Helen Greenwood

Scent Treks Through Time - Part XIV Marian Bendeth

Making Scents - Azzi Glasser Kate Mikhail

Perfumers - Jean-Paul Guerlain & Thierry Wasser Emma Moore

195 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Scent Treks Through Time - Part XV Marian Bendeth

Perfumer/Author Michel Roudnitska Author Unknown

Interview with Linda Pilkington, Perfumer Jeca

An Interview with Mandy Aftel Walter Minton 2009

Interview - Dawn M. Spencer Hurwitz Raphaella Barkley

Interview with Gail Adrian Bonnie Cehovet he Rising Star - Interview with Perfumer Rodrigo Roux Michelyn Camen

The Rising Star: Interview with Perfumer Yann Vasnier Michelyn Camen

Serge Lutens Interview: “All of My Perfumes Are Sixty-Six Years Old” Author Unknown

Interview with Perfumer Sandrine Videault Author Unknown

Point of View - An Opportunity to Reinvent the Fragrance Pascal Gaurin

Making Magic: Perfumer Cécile Krakower Stephanie Nolasco

Interview with Natural Perfumer - Lyn Ayre Feb. 2009 Author Unknown

An Interview with a Natural Perfumer - Lisa Fong Author Unknown

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Q & A Author Unknown

Sylvaine Delacourte - Answers Grain de Musc Author Unknown

Interview with a Perfumer - Isabelle Doyen March 2009 Author Unknown

Iso E Super - Its Merits, Is Faults Author Unknown

Interview - Perfumer - Patricia de Nicolaï Author Unknown

Interview with Dawn M. Spencer Hurwitz Raphaella Barkley

Interviewing a Self Taught Artist - Lorenzo Villoresi Author Unknown

196 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

What a Nose Camilla Webster

Interview with Master Perfumer Jean Claude Ellena Author Unknown

The Perfume of the Wind - An Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena Michel Camen

Making Scents of It Marion Hume

Interview with Keiko Mecheri ( Passion for Perfume - Portrait ) Author Unknown

Movers & Shakers - Patricia Bilodeau, Perfumer Peachy Deegan

Smelling Like Roses or Not April 2009 Mildrade Cherfils

Jean-Claude Ellena - Making Sense of Making Scents Amy Verner

Natural Perfumer Exhibits at Bendel Julie Gordon

Interview - Perfumer - Stéphanie de Saint Aignan Author Unknown

Céline Ellena - An Interview with a Perfumer Author Unknown

Interview - Christophe Laudamiel Talks Author Unknown

Interviewing Perfumer - Jean Paul Guerlain Author Unknown

Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena In House Perfuemr for Hermes Michelyn Camen

Interviewing: Pierre-Constantin Gueros Author Unknown

We Ask Questions - Q & A with Linda Pilkington Lucy

The Nose Behind the Scents: Secrets of Perfume Making Author Unknown

Interview with Natural Perfumer - Joann Bassett Author Unknown

An Interview with Natural Perfumer Cirstiane Gonçalves

Interview with Perfumer - Thorsten Biehl May 2009 Cristiane Gonçalves

Conversation - Star Perfumer Maurice Roucel, Symrise Author Unknown

Laura Stern - Natural Perfumer Raphaella Brescia Barkley

197 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Meet Jean Claude Elenna - The In House Perfumer Michelyn Camen

Scent of a Woman Author Unknown

The Nose of Guerlain Archana Subramanian

An Interview with Natural Perfumer Roxana Villa Author Unknown

An Interview with Johann Maria Farina Tom Clark

Biography of Ann Gottlieb - Her Career Author Unknown

Interview - Perfumer - Bertrand Duchaufour June 2009 Author Unknown

A Life Less Ordinary April Long

Fragrance Bottle Designer - Pierre Dinand, an Interview Julien Levy

A Visit with Linda Pilkington ( Ormonde Jayne Perfumery ) Author Unknown

Interview with Perfumer - Olivier Gillotin Helene Marie Wagner

Exclusive Interview with Michel Roudnitska Michelyn Camen

Study Notes: Back to School Pia Long

An Interview with Perfumer - Mathilde Laurent Author Unknown

Fabrice Penot Author Unknown

Scenting Women Lim Ai Lee

The ( Not So ) Glamorous World of Fragrances Aug. 2009 Nathan Motylinski

Comparing Notes: Carlos Benaim, Pascal Gaurin & Laurent Le Guernec Jeb Allured

The Creative Pair from Chanel: Jacques Polge & Chrostopher Sheldrake Author Unknown

Inside the Creative Mind of Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour Michelyn Camen

Perfumer - Laurent Le Guernec Author Unknown

Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian Goes Bespoke Author Unknown

198 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Perfumer My Gig Amanda Coggin

Interview with French Perfumer Blaise Mautin Simone Shitrit

Entrevista com o Perfumista Blaise Mautin Simone Shitrit

Interviewing Pierre Guillaume a Perfumer Author Unknown

An Interview with Sarah Horowitz Author Unknown

Entrevista com um Perfumista de Sucesso! Napoleão Bastos Jr. Simone Shitrit

Interview with a Perfumer:Kristen Michèle Sept. 2009 Violet Devereaux

Exclusive Interview with Ralf Schwieger Michelyn Camen

Scents & Sensibility Susan Kurosawa

“One Drop Changes Everything” Author Unknown

Sweet Scents & Classic Revivals Katie Bird

Why Francis Kurkdjian is a Great Perfumer Author Unknown

Interview with 7th Generation Perfumer Oliver Creed Author Unknown

Guerlain’s Idylle Man Eva Friede

Interview with Fabrice Penot of Le Labo Jessica Herman

Interview with Perfumer Lynn Harris Anthony Rose

Perfume Talk with Yosh Han Simone Shitrit

Interviewing Perfumer Spencer Krenke Author Unknown

The Wunderkind of Perfumery - Franics Kurkdjian Oct. 2009 Michelyn Camen

Inspiration in Perfumery Author Unknown

Interview with Natural Perfumer Persephe Author Unknown

The Scent of a Designer: Purple Couches? Elva Ramirez

199 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

An Interview with Perfumer Linda Kramer Author Unknown

Interview with Fragrance Designer Raymond Matts Author Un

Smell is Memory Insists Perfumer Thierry Wasser Author Unnown

Interview with Perfumer - Annie Buzantian Author Unknown

Interview with Perfumer - Roger Broudoux Author Unknown

Emperor of an Invisible Kingdom - Paris Perfumer Richard Fraysse dpa

Interview - Synthetics to Shalimar - Chandler Burr Nina Sinatra

Mathilde Laurent Respons to Questions Author Unknown

Interview with Perfumer Rodrigo Flores Roux Michelyn Camen

Designer - Massimo Ferragamo - An Interview Author Unknown

An Interview with Perfumer Delphine Jelk Author Unknown

The Rising Star: Inerview with Perfumer Yann Vasnier Author Unknown

First Person - ‘I can Identify 1,000 Different Scents’ Rob Sharp

Entrevista: Givaudan Perfumista Thierry Bessard Author Unknown

Glamorous Inspirations Archana Subramanian

Interview with Joao Carlos Basilio Da Silva Cristiane Gonçalves

Romantic Notes - Interview with Perfumer Dominique Ropion Wong Li Za

Exclusive Interview with Romano Ricci Michelyn Camen

An Interview with a Natural Perfumer Dominique Durbana Author Unknown

Perfumier Stephane Humbert Lucas Discusses Nez Elizabeth Monson

Five Minutes with Fabrice Penot Mel Cornford

Exclusive Interview with Geza Schoen Michelyn Camen

200 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

The Scent Detective - How to Sniff Out Fragrances Dec. 2009 Maggie Bullock

Creating the First Fragrance of the 21st Century Author Unknown

A “Green” Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena Fabienne Antoniewski

The Power of Fragrance Sarah Maisey

Interview with Perfumer - François-Raphaël Balestra Anthéa Gutknecht

Thierry Wasser, a Considerable Interview Author Unknown

Interview - Della Chuang Simone Shitrit 2010

Natural Perfumers Wish You a Happy Holiday Author Unknown

Now Smell This, and See Its Maker Terry Trucco

Perfumer - David Apel - An Interview Author Unknown

Interview With Olivier Gillotin - Givaudan Senior Perfumer Cristiane Gonçalves

Breaking the Mould Libby Banks

Symrise: Flavours and Fragrances Lim Yan Wen

An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer, Mike Parrott Grant Osborne

An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer, Beverley Bayne Grant Osborne

An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer, David Ruskin Grant Osborne

Memories of Bint el Sudan Alison Bate

Pierre Guillaume: Chemistry and Alchemy Michelyn Camen

Renowned Natural Perfumer Mandy Aftel Author Unknown

Perfumer - François Demachy - An Interview Feb. 2010 Author Unknown

Interview - Perfumer - Isabelle Doyen Author Unknown

201 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

The Art of Natural Perfumery Tatiana Serafin

A Short Interview with Perfumer - Daniel Vaudd Author Unknown

An Interview with Alec Lawless of Essentially Me Walker Minton

Meet the Green Goddesses of Natural Perfume Michelyn Camen

DelRae Roth - an Interview Author Unknown

Perfumer - Francis Kurkdjian - An Interview Author Unknown

The Prize of Luxury ( Interview with Erwin Creed ) Author Unknown

A Beautiful Mind Viola Levy

An Interview with Perfumer Will Andrews Author Unknown

Interview with a Perfumer Andy Tauer Author Unknown

Perfumery Professions - Marie Petit, Naming Author Unknown

Natural Perfumer - Liza Zorn, an Interview Author Unknown

Say It With Scent Stephanie Rivers

Choosing the Right Scent: Artisian Perfumer Frederic Malle Nana-Adwoa Ofori

Sweet Stank of Innovation Linda Tischler

Meet Arthur Burnham, A Perfumer Author Unknown

Alexander Lee - An American Perfume Student in Paris Author Unknown

A Rose by Another Name April 2010 Corby Kummer

Perfumer - Rodrigo Flores- Roux - An Interview Author Unknown

Yosh Han, The Magic of Custom Scents Jenn Klein

Interview - Life Is a Perfume - JoAnne Bassett Author Unknown

Perfumery Professions: Stéphane Piquart, “Sourcer” Author Unknown

202 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS

Jean-Claude Ellena’s Latest Reflections on Perfumery Author Unknown

Interview with Natural Perfumer - Ayala Sender June 2010 Raphaella Brescia Barkley

Interview- Maurice Roucel, Master Perfumer Anne Lueneburger

Interview: Natural Perfumer Gary Lodato JoSelle Vanderhott

L’Osmothèque Preserving The Past To Ensure The Future Sarah Cotton

Perfumer - Alexis Dadier - An Interview Author Unknown

The Nose Knows - Sandra Anderson natural Kim Triegaardt

Interview with Perfumer & Owner Tanja Bochhnig Author Unknown

An Interview With Botanical Natural Perfumer Justine Crane Author Unknown

Sissel Tolaas Tells the Rubes How They Smell Avery Gilbert

Tranquil Notes Patsy Kam

Marie Benoît’s Diary Marie Benoit

A More Perfect Scent - A Perfume Addict Goes Organic Amanda Walker

Talking Nose Nicola

The Lost Interview with Perfumer - Bertrand Duchaufour Michelyn Camen

Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian - Entertians in the City of Light July 2010 Author Unknown

Eau Manny - Boxer Pacquiao Markets His Own Cologne Gendy Alimurung

Perfumers Decrypt, How to Have a Virgin Fragrance Marie Wright

Q&A with Perfumer Carina Chazanas Samantha Antopol

Perfumery Professions: Françoise Donche, Givenchy’s Fragrance Expert Author Unknown

Select the Perfect Scent for Your Wedding Day Jessica Pauline Ogilvie

Perfumer - Jean Claude Elenna Vir Sahghvi

203 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

The Artisan Series: Andy Tauer ( Part II ) Nathan Branch

Perfumery Professions: Ann Gottlieb Author Unknown

How Michelle Bam - Helped Miller Harris’ Business Liz Hoggard

Aftelier: Long-Distance Bespoke Fragrance Service Aug. 2010 Nathan Branch

The Artisan Series: Andy Tauer ( Part III ) Nathan Branch

Something Old, Something Bleu S.S. Yoga

Questions & Answers with Legendary Chanel Perfumer Stéphane Gaboué

Maria McElroy: Interview With a Perfumer Violet Devereaux

The Most Interesting Fragrances Carla Long

Ruth Mastenbroek - Talks About Her First Eau de Parfum Grant Osborne

The Language of Fragrance - Christoph Laudamiel Andrew Dermont

Yosh Han Mixes Your Special Scent - Take a Whiff Sept. 2010 Steve Rubenstein

An Audience With Jean-Paul Guerlain & Thierry Wasser Persolaise

Perfumery Professions - Theirry de Baschmakoff Author Unknown

Interview with Pierre Guillaume: Huitieme Art Perfumes Michelyn Camen

Mandy Aftel & Andy Tauer: Letters to a Fellow Perfumer Nathan Branch

Roja Dove - The ( Professor of Perfume ) Persolaise

Interview With a Natural Perfumer: Kristen Dunagan Oct. 2010 Violet Devereaux

Art of Fragrance Lecture March

Live, From New York Its Bertrand Duchaufour Michelyn Camen

The Samurai Shopper | My Favorite Nose S.S. Fair

Francis Kurkdjian: Recipe For a Great Perfumer Author Unknown

204 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - The Questions

Bois Noire or Egoiste - Chanel’s Jacques Polge Explains Author Unknown

An Interview with Chanel Perfumer Jacques Polge Stéphane Gaboué

The Escentric World of a Beautiful Mind - Geza Schoen Nov. 2010 Michelyn Camen

Erwin Creed Thinks Finding the Right Perfume Lauren Murrow

Herr “Professor” Geza Schoen - Gives a Chemistry Lesson Mark Behnke

The Art of Composing Fragrance, Naturally Yuko Fukami

Interview with Jessica September Buchanan of 1000 Flowers Michelyn Camen

French Fragrance Prince Talks Scents at Fashion Island Cindy McNatt

Blogging The Forbidden - Exclusive Interview with Denyse Beaulieu Persolaise

10 Questions to Frédéric Malle Dec. 2010 Author Unknown

Interview with Sylvie Ganter Michelyn Camen

Behind The Fragrance Author Unknown

Roja Dove is Making Sense of Scents Helen Greenwood

Perfume Scent From Childhood Andrea Klassen

Interview: Roja Dove, Perfumer Lee Randall

Scent of a Woman - Patricia de Nicolai, 54 Nathalie Atkinson

Sweet Smell of Success Author Unknown

205 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Ackerman, Diane. A Natural History of the Senses, 1990. Aftel, Mandy. Essences & Alchemy - A Book of Perfume, 2001. Arctander, Steffen. Perfume & Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. 1960. Arctander, Steffen. Perfume & Flavor Chemicals, Volumes # 1 & 2. Aurora Photos - Perfume Bottles - 20 - 36 Danforth Street, Suite # 216, Portland, Maine 04101. Bailey, L.J. Hortus, A Dictionary Of Horticulture of North America. 1935. Bedoukian, Paul Dr. Perfumery & Flavoring Synthetics. Bedoukian, Paul Dr. Perfumery & Flavoring Materials, Articles, 1945 - 1992. Bedoukian Research. Distinctive Perfume & Flavor Ingredients. Black, Penny. The Book Of Potpourri, Fragrant Flower Mixes For The Home. Brechbill, Glen O., A Reference Book on Fragrance Ingredients, 2005. Burfield, Tony. The Adulteration of Essential Oils, Globalnet.co.uk, London, 2003. Burr, Chandler. The Emperor of Scent, A Story of Perfume, & Obsession. 2002. Bush Boake & Allen, Inc. Aroma & Terpene Products. Calkin, Robert R. Perfumery Practice & Principles. Chanel Parfums, The Story of Coco Chanel, 1999. Clifford, Frank S. Romance Of Perfume Lands. 1881. Cola, Felix. Book of Perfumery. 1947 Creations Aromatiques Inc., Bases, Essential Oils, Fine Fragrances & Aromatic Materials. Dana, Star W. How To Know The Wild Flowers. 1995. Dictionary, The American Heritage Dictionary Of The English Language, 1971. Dictionary, Webster's Third New International Dictionary, Unabridged. Donato, Giuseppe & Siefried Monique. The Fragrant Past: Perfumes of Cleopatra and Julius Ceasar. 1995. Dorland, Gabrielle J. Scents Appeal. Dorland, Rogers. The Fragrance & Flavor Industry. 1971. Dragoco. World Class Flavor Ingredients. Duff, Gail. Natural Fragrances, Outdoor Scents For Indoor Use. Edwards, Michael. Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances, 1998. Fabulous Fragrances II, A Guide to Prestige and Perfume For Women & Men, 2001. Firmenich, Inc. Chemicals & Specialties. Fragrance Foundation. Fragrance & Olfactory Dictionary & Directory. 1981. Fragrance Foundation. The History, The Mystery, The Enjoyment of Fragrance. Fragrance Profiles. Allured Publishers. French Society Of Perfumers. Fragrance Classification Des Perfumes.

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Gaborit, Jean-Yves. Perfumes - The Essences and Their Bottles. 1988. Gaines, Ann. Coco Chanel. 2004. Genders, Roy. Perfume Through The Ages. 1972. Gilchrist, Cherry. The Elements Of Alchemy. Givaudan Fragrance Corporation. Fragrance Ingredients. Google Search Engine. Google Inc., 1600 Amphitheatre Parkway, Mountain View, California 94043. Grant, Junius. Hackh's Chemical Dictionary. 1944. Groom, Nigel. The Perfume Handbook. Gunther, Ernest Dr. The Essential Oils. Volumes # 1 & 2. Haarmann & Reimer. Aroma Chemicals & Specialty Scents. The H & R Books Of Perfume # 1 The H & R Book Of Perfume. # 2 Guide To Fragrance Ingredients. # 3 Fragrance Guide. Healy, Orla. Coty - The Brand of Visionary. 2004. Hiscox, Gardner D. Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes, & Processes. 1924. International Flavors & Fragrances. Perfumers Compendium. Irvine, Susan. Perfume - The Creation and Allure of Classic Fragrances. 1995. Jessee, Jill. The Perfume Album. 1972. Lawless, Julia. The Encyclopedia Of Essential Oils. Lawrence, Brian Dr. The Journals Of Essential Oil Research. Volumes # 1 - 4. Maron, Jan. Fabulous Fragrances II: A Guide to Prestige Perfumes for Men & Women. 2000. Material Safety Data Sheets. Mauer, Edward S. Perfumes & Their Production. 1958. Miller, Alan R. The Magical & Ritual Use Of Aphrodisiacs. Miller, Alan & Iona. The Magical & Ritual Use Of Herbs. Miller, Alan & Iona. The Magical & Ritual Use Of Perfumes. Moldenke, Harold & Alma. Plants Of The Bible. 1952. Moran, Jan. Fabulous Fragrances - The Women's Guide To Prestige Perfumes. 1994. Morris, Edwin T. The Story Of Perfume From Cleopatra To Chanel. 1984 Muller, Lamporsky. Perfume, Art, Science & Technology. Naves, Mazuyer. Natural Perfume Materials. 1947. Newman, Cathy, Kendrick Rob. The Art & Science of Scent. 1999. Pickles, Sheila. Penhaligon's Scented Treasury Of Verse & Pose. Pickles, Sheila. A Victorian Posy. Pickles, Sheila. The Language of Flowers. PFW Aroma Chemicals. Aroma Chemicals. Poucher, W.A. Perfumes, Cosmetics & Soaps. Volumes # 1 - 3. Quest International. A Compendium of Fragrance Ingredients. Rimelle, Eugene. Book Of Perfumes. 1865. Robertet. Natural Ingredients. Scent, by Visionaire Publishing 2004. Schab, Frank R. & Crowder, Robert G. Memory For Odors. 1995. Swarthout, Doris. An Age Of Flowers, Sense & Sentiment In Victorian America.

207 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL

Takasago. Aroma Chemical Compendium. Theimer, Ernst T. Fragrance Chemistry, The Science Of The Sense Of Smell. Thompson, C.J.S. The Mystery & Romance Of Alchemy & Pharmacy. 1932. Thompson, C.J.S. The Mystery & Lure Of Perfume. 1927. Todd, Pamela. Forget-Me-Not, A Floral Treasury, Sentiments & Plant Lore. Toller, Dodd. Perfumery, The Psychology & Biology Of Fragrance. Turin, Lucas. The Secret of Scent, 2006. Verill, Hyatt A. Perfumes & Spices, History & Soaps, Preparation. 1940. Yahoo Search Engine. Yahoo! Inc., 701 First Avenue, Sunnyvale, California 94089. Worwood, Valerie A. The Complete Book Of Essential Oils On Aromatherapy.

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