Perfume’s Creative Art The Questions Glen O. Brechbill Fragrance Books Inc. www.perfumerbook.com New Jersey - USA 2011 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL “To my parents whose faith in my work & abilities made this manuscript possible” PERFUME’S CREATIVE ART - THE QUESTIONS © This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Designed by Glen O. Brechbill Library of Congress Brechbill, Glen O. Perfume’s Creative Art - The Questions / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 208 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title. Certificate Registry # TXu 1 - 621 - 855 Copyright © 2011 by Glen O. Brechbill All Rights Reserved PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition 2 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS About the Book This book is about the questions. I gleamed about 125 pages out of 1,300 pages. How to interview a per- fumer of course is at the heart of the creative art. In most cases however, the questions rarely varies. Prior to 2007 interview articles were rather rare. Most were linked to on line newspaper type-sites. After 2007 as more blogs related to fragrance appeared on the world wide web more interviews appeared. Perfume personalities from many sides of the industry gave their time and expertise willingly. Just finding and collecting and collat- ing the enclosed articles took close to ten years of work. It’s a secretive industry, and finding data took many hours of research. If I had a perfumer to interview I would ask him or her how they got into the art. Which school did they graduate from. Whom did they apprentice under. Which fragrance house did they work for first. What was their first fragrance creation. What do they think about the current creative environment ( IFRA ). What do they think of the future of fragrance considering Giaudan, IFF and Symrise have set up fine fragrance creative centers in China and India plus Brazil. Are they worried that down the road the art is in danger of dying due to the computer. Are they concerned that consumers are being mislead as to the danger’s of fine fragrances due to synthetics. What is their opinion of the folks in advertising, marketing and public relations who provide exaggerations about what their craft is, and isn’t. To the point questions like this are being ignored because they are not glamorous. It is my understanding if one doesn't keep one's mouth shut about the absence of natural materials in today's blends you will find your- self either fired or on a blacklist. The natural perfumers are slowly taking over this portion of the business. For the most part these folks are poorly trained and educated regarding their creative competence. A single book or two does not give one all the answers. The essential oil houses to extend profits cut natural materials. Consequently unless one is a chemist with access to an expensive gas chromatography computer one can not guarantee a fragrance is a hundred percent natural. Since the beginning of 2011 another thing you rarely see are interviews by perfumers. Whether this is something new is not known. The creative art of perfume is a wonderful creative skill poorly understood by most. Letting folks in the advertising, marketing and public relations twist it into fantasies misleads the con- sumer, and indirectly I think has lead to its decline. A well known writer said that in one of his last articles, fine fragrances are similar to a pyramidal marketing scheme. Each new fragrance built on the last one. Getting cheaper all the time without essential oils incorporating fewer aroma materials. At some point the consumer will get weary of the constant turn over and hype, and will eventually tune out this expensive not needed product. That in itself should give the fragrance industry worry. 3 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL Fine Fragrance Artist’s VOLUME I A - E Roberto Ascoli Carlos Benaïm Alain Astori Nathalie Benareau Burt Acerfig Pierre Aulas Henri Bergia Gail Adrian ~ natural Isabelle Aurel ~ natural Ann Berilloux Mandy Aftel ~ natural J. Auvray Domitille Bertier Jack Agran Lynn Ayre ~ natural Jean-Pierre Béthouart Alessandro Agrati John Ayres Christian Biecher Nazir Ajmal Henning Biehl Alain Alchenberger Dora Baghriche Robert Bienaime Yael Alkalay ~ natural Jerzy Bajgrowicz Mathilde Bijaoul Bob Aliano Stephanie Bakouche Norbert Bijaoui Alain Allione Alexandra Balahoutis ~ natural Marcel Billot Michel Almairac François-Raphaël Balestra Patrica Bilodeau Henri Almeras Christine Baillifard Marc Blaison Marc Amandine Ted Barba Bernard Blanc Jean Amic Phillipe Barbossa Honorine Blanc Sandra Anderson ~ natural Celine Barel Maurice Blanchet ( 1890 - 1953 ) Maison Andrae Anne Barkley Jean Francois Blayn Will Andrews Manolo Barrado Francis Bocris Daniela ( Roche ) Andrier David Basile Han-Paul Bodifee Daunte Pajaujis Anonis Joanne Bassett ~ natural Francesco Borghese Nicolas Anorga Napoleão Bastos Jr. David Botello Jean-Luc Ansel Ahmet Baydar Etienne Bouckaert Gerard Anthony Beverly Bayne Emilie Bouge David Apel Soizic Beaucourt Evelyne Boulanger Steffen Arctander - Author Nicolas Beaulieu Pierre Bourdon Kari Arienti Edouard Beaux Bernard Bourjeois Virginie Armand Ernest Beaux ( 1881 - 1961 ) Brigitte Bourney-Romagne Pierre Armigeant Calice Becker Philippe Bousseton Susan Arslaner Paul Bedoukian Phd. - Author Dirk Braun Landi Arturetto James Bell Glen O. Brechbill - Author Calice Asancheyev-Becker Claudette Belnavis Odette Breil-Radius 4 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Perfume’s Creative Art - THE QUESTIONS Shirley Brodi Marc Chaillant Phil Cunningham Maureen Brooks Bernard Chant ( d. 1987 ) Harry A. Cuttler Christopher Brosius Anne Sophie Chapuis Alexis Dadier Roger Broudoux Gabriela Chelariu Ernest Daltroff ( 1867 - 1941 ) Laurent Bruyere ( d. 2008 ) Andre Chenier Claire dal Zotto Chris Buccellato Karine Chevallier Marc Fanton d’Andon Felix Buccellato Marc Chevrier Carl D’Andrea - Phd Jessica Buchanan Antoine Chiris Nicolas Danila Daphney Bugey Patricia Choux Leonardo D’Ascanio Tony Burfield Fabienne Christensen Vioaline David Irina Burlakova Christina Christie Nicolas de Barry Arthur Burnham Phlippe Chuit ( 1866 - 1939 ) Yves de Chirin Betty Busse Blazenka Cisko-Anic Lambert Dekker Mark Buxton Steve Claisse Elisabeth de Feydeau Annie Buzantian Peter Coates Petra De Jong Beatrice Cointreau Sylvaine Delacourte Jean-Francois Cabos Violaine Collas Francis Deleamont Corinne Cachen Léonce Collas Jean Claude Delville Clare Cain Phillippe Collet Francois Demachy Jerry Caiazzo Sonia Constant Remco de Meijere Nick Calderone Mark Constantine Steve de Mercado Yves Caldrone Simon Constantine Patricia de Nicolaï Francis Camail Emille ( Bevierre ) Copperman Marie-Anne de Puy Raimond Arcadi Boix Camps Joachim Correll Stephanie de Saint-Aignan Brian Campbell Bruce Edward Corritan Jacques de Sarrazin Frank Cardillo Ana Corsini Sabine De Tscharner Cyrille Carles Marc-Antoine Corticchiato Christophe de Villeplee Jean Carles ( 1892 - 1966 ) Jill Costa Claudine de Vogel Marcel Carles Zoe Coste Jean Desprez Françoise Caron Marion Costero Mona di Orio Pierre-Yves Carriou Natasha Cote Jean Jacques Diener Francesca Casiraghi Francois Coty ( 1874 - 1934 ) Alexandrine Demmerle Silvana Casoli Yves Coueslant Claude Dir Yves Cassar Fabienne Coupaye George Dodd Josephine Catapano Gerard Coupy Françoise Donche Jane Cate ~ natural Rosin Courage Loc Dong Jacques Cavallier Jacques Courtin Bertrand Dor Germaine Cellier ( 1909 - 1976 ) Marie-Aude Couture Bluche Alfred D’Orsay Maurizio Cerriza Justine Crane ~ natural Stephen Dowthwaite Nathalie Cetto Irwin Creed Roja Dove Jacques Chabert Olivier Creed Isabelle Doyen Jean-Marc Chaillan Olivier Cresp Kathleen Drier Raymond Chaillian Judith Cross Zerlina Dubois 5 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. BRECHBILL Dominique Dubrana ~ natural Jacques Flori Olivia Giacobetti Karine Dubreuil Christiane Flos Henry Giboulet ( 1911 - 1966 ) Marie Duchêne Jan Fockenbrock Olivier Gillotin Isabelle Dufour Lisa Fong ~ natural Dominique Gindre Bertrand Duchaufour Thomas Fontaine Michel Girard Alfredo Dupetit-Bernardi ~ natural Ellie Fox Kara Girardi Roger Duprey Volke Franck Pascal Giraux Jean-Michel Duriez Maia Frattini E. Giron André Fraysse ( 1902 - 1976 ) Hubert de Givenchy Michael Edwards Claude Fraysse Azzi Glasser Margot Elena Jacqueline Fraysse Enrique J. Gomez-Dueso Bernard Ellena Richard Fraysse Robert Gonon ( 1926 - 1988 ) Celine Ellena Stefano Frecceri Adam Gottshalk ~ natural Jean-Claude Ellena Harry Fremont Ann Gottlieb Jérôme Epinette Alexandre Freile Michel Gouges Laurie Erickson ~ natural Andre Fromentin Gerard Goupy Ilias Ermenidis George Fuchs Camille Goutal Bernard Escano Frank Fundaro Nathalie Gracia-Cetto Charna Ethier ~ natural Yasuo Fujiwara Sidonie Grandperret Lois Evans Olivier Funel Martin Gras Fanny Grau - Jr. Perfumer VOLUME II F - L Antoine Gaillard Jean Louis Grauby Claude Galien Jean Babtiste Grenouille - murderer Marion Fabre John Gamba Sophia Grojsman Francis Fabron Catherine Ganahl Alessandro Gualtieri Laurence Fanuel Nathalie Garacia-Cetto Pascal Guarin