Issue 13 Spring '99 £2.00 Free to All Bmc Members

ISSUE 13 SPRING '99 FREE TO ALL BMC MEMBERS £2.00

8165_Summit_13_Cover.p65 1 17/02/99, 14:04

FOREWORD Balanced Summits

I wonder how many BMC members ing the interests of sport. agree with Richard Parry when he said, At the Countryside Commission confer- “It’s time to look at the whole structure. ence Environment Minister Michael It’s run by an unwieldy committee struc- Meacher was also calling for a more inte- ture which is positively labyrinthine. It’s grated approach. An announcement of the not sleek and certainly not appropriate Government’s intentions following the con- for the next millennium”. Or Bert sultation on access to the open country- Millichip when he said “The structure side in England and Wales is due at about needs a major overhaul… there’s no doubt the time this issue of Summit will be dis- the set up is Victorian.” The BMC tributed. However, at the conference Mr “unwieldy…labyrinthine…Victorian”; Meacher reiterated how impor- can this be true? Well, perhaps not be- tant the Government viewed cause Mr Parry and Mr Millichip were sport and recreation in the coun- respectively the former Premier League tryside and that “some form of CEO and Football Association Chairman access legislation is needed”. He and were commenting on the so called loan also stressed that access arrange- for votes scandal at the FA. National bod- ments need to be both flexile and ies for sport need to strike a balance be- practicable and that any changes tween an empowered executive and ac- had to be in steps. It seems that countable democratic representation. In the BMC’s submission to the the FA incident the executive had exceeded Government’s consultation ex- its authority and a committee challenged a ercise has found some resonance loan agreement with the Welsh FA. You with the Department of Envi- could say that this was only revealed be- ronment, Transport and the Re- cause the structure of a democratic na- gions – we shall see by how tional governing body for sport was work- much when the Government ing properly. Yes, effective leadership and makes its announcement. Given streamlined administration can speed up the Government’s recognition implementation. But, checks and balances of the importance of sport and are needed for pecuniary and policy mat- recreation in the countryside, the ters, otherwise bodies like the FA (and BMC is asking for a more inte- BMC) become susceptible to individual grated approach to support for self-interest and greed. My advice would bodies like the BMC from the be (along with strangers bearing gifts) be- Government’s countryside and ware of bodies that are not openly and sport agencies. publicly accountable. Also at the Countryside beware of bodies that are not openly Tony Banks has strong views about na- Commission conference was and publicly accountable tional governing bodies for sport. I did not Roger Wheater, the Chairman think the Sports Minister had time to read of the Scottish Access Forum. He out- nian” by the Chairman of Scottish Natu- Summit magazine, but perhaps he does. I lined the considerable progress that the ral Heritage, and would have a significant almost heard him quoting from the fore- Forum has achieved in finding consensus negative impact on the local economy. words of Summit 11 and 12 at the annual on open access in Scotland. He cautioned The BMC has written to the European conference of the Central Council of Physi- that there was still a long way to go con- Commission to request that they with- cal Education. “What political will exists sulting with a wider group of interested hold approval of any application for funds for one nation sport?” he asked, and went bodies before any proposals go before the to support the funicular project until the on to express his frustration at the frac- yet to be established Scottish Parliament. Commission is satisfied that the best so- tured nature and conflicts within the bod- Structured consultation can be time con- lution has been identified for the future of ies that represent sport in the UK. He suming, but is essential to find balanced the Cairngorm mountain area including the pointed out that “whinging in the margins solutions and make reasoned plans. In interests of climbers, hill walkers and is not the way to make sport work in Brit- the case of the proposed Cairngorm fu- mountaineers. For the sake of the local ain” and said that he had “no time for nega- nicular part of its funding has been ap- community, a unique mountain landscape, tive trivia and individual feuding”. He called proved before the publication of reports and the interests of all recreational vision the bodies that represent sport and rec- that cast serious doubts over the viability tors, let’s hope a precautionary approach reation to “unite and create an effective of the project. The BMC recognises the is taken before the concrete flows on Cairn lobby to put pressure on the decision mak- need for renovation of the uplift facilities Gorm. Let’s hope the checks and bal- ers” - as the arts lobby had done during the for the Cairngorm downhill ski area but ances are all in place and the committees Government’s comprehensive spending believes that the proposed funicular is not get it right on this one. review. There is plenty of scope for some the best solution. Also, the proposed fu- uniting in sport – in the case of mountain- nicular visitor management plan seeks to Take care, eering in the UK with three national coun- introduce a regime that would severely cils and five training boards. It can not be restrict current access for climbers, hill often that a Government Minister invites walkers and mountaineers. The plan states national representatives to unite and put that the proposals will “almost certainly pressure on his own Department – but then make Cairngorm less attractive to hill walk- General Secretary Tony Banks is passionate about promot- ers” which has been described as “Draco-

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13 1

8165_Summit_13.p65 1 17/02/99, 11:33 ONTENTSONTENTS CCC FEATURES Welcome to issue 13 of 10 Trekking in Tibet 20 Belaying John Billington describes Olly Sanders of Plas y Brenin trekking in this unique looks at common errors and the BMC members magazine. country and the work of the gives some top tips. Hopefully there is something for Tibetan Relief Fund. everyone. Opinion, essays and photographs are more than welcome. 12 World Summit will develop and grow with your input. Championship We look forward to Profiles hearing from you. The countdown to Climb'99 begins with The BMC offers a wide range of profiles of Claire Murphy services to meet the needs of its and Adrian Berry. members, these include liability, Continues p31. accident and travel insurance, access to mountain huts and reduced cost travel, and a wide range of information 16 Peak bolts and advice services. For further details An update on the debate contact the membership services team. and a summary of responses. BMC, 177 - 179 Burton Road, Manchester M20 2BB 18 Altitude Tel: 0161 445 4747 Advice from the UIAA Fax: 0161 445 4500 Mountain Medical Centre e-mail: [email protected] on altitude related illness. http//www.thebmc.co.uk

CONTRIBUTIONS FOR BMC SUMMIT should be sent to LETTERS ANDY MACNAE Access and PROWS 4 Wheel Drive at the May I add a little to the BMC Access and Conservation With regard to the letter published in BMC OFFICE. Officer, Susanna Perkins’ article, in ‘Forum’ “Whose Summit issue 12 from Glenn Wilks re 4 Right?” (what a pun, “whose right” or “who’s right”?). Wheel Drive, I for one do not feel it is the ADVERTISING Hopefully, Susanna’s comments relate only to access to role of the BMC to spend any time or Advertisement Manager the Open Countryside and not to public rights of way. money on any such campaign, freedom of Gill Wootton Contrary to the belief of many, access agreements are anath- access is for all, education and respect for ema to one’s legal right to use a public right of way (PROW). the environment from all users of the coun- Classified Offering a financial inducement, agreeing not to use a try side whoever they may be. Paula Taylor PROW at certain times, entering into an Access Agree- We have all seen the blots on the land- ment, or accepting private or personal access as a favour, Tel: 01536 525550 scape by farmers with disused machinery are all ways of eroding the national network of public left to rot. The hard litter left on Everest Fax: 01536 522621 highways (in this context, including public footpaths). by “climbers”. The footpaths cut up by PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY The reason for this is as follows: mountain bikers. The litter by walkers. Where a PROW is not indicated on the Local Authori- GreenShires Publishing The ironmongery on climbs might well be ty’s “Definitive Map”, or the alternative “Highway Map”, viewed by some as four wheel tracks Telford Way the only way to prove public right (and subsequently get where Glenn Wilks lives. Kettering the route marked on those maps) is to show PUBLIC Respect and tolerate all users of the coun- Northants NN16 8UN USE, not private use, over a period of 20 years. This tryside if it be for making a living, or for Tel: 01536 525550 claim can be defeated where private consents, agreements, recreation, help educate them but don’t sin- financial inducements etc have occurred…… BMC Participation Statement gle out any one group the NIMBY approach G.C. Tyson "The BMC recognises that climbing and only moves the problem not solves it. mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in Susanna Perkins answers: Yes, my comments relate By all means highlight issues to all users these activities should be aware of and to open countryside only (mountain, moor, heath, down but singling out any one group will not accept these risks and be responsible for help the cause for true freedom for us all their own actions and involvement." and common land). Public Rights of Way are covered by separate legislation, and voluntary access agreements in the countryside. should not impinge on the legal right to use these. You are Mike Wilson is an element of the BMC Information Service which operates correct in saying that where access is by voluntary agree- in partnership with ment the option after 20 years' use to propose a path as a For an information service Menu or PROW is lost. This is one of the reasons why the BMC order form contact the BMC office. opposes the CLA's proposal to grant access along 'per- missive paths' - by doing so they would retain the power to magazine does not take responsibility for withdraw access as they wish. information supplied in advertisements. Readers should take care and responsibility on themselves when purchasing by mail order. Materials sent for publication will be at the sender's risk while every care is taken by the publishers for their safe Cover: On the Cairngorm Plateau Photo: Payne return2 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13

8165_Summit_13.p65 2 17/02/99, 11:44 26 Blue Monday Summit's roving reporter Alex Messenger reflects REGULARS on life in the Blue 4 News Mountains of Australia. Extended news coverage and access roundup. 28 Access Forum The 1998 Access Forum 22 Forum looked at Snowdonia transport. Commercialisation of the outdoors. 34 Arena

30 Navigation 48 Briefing Silva's Tony Wale New Life Assurance Policy. considers the future. Also Terry Tullis retirement bash. 40 SPA David Phillpot reflects on his assessment. 42 This is Africa The BMC/MCofSA exchange.

47 The Junior Team Paul Dewhurst describes Dave Birkett on the second ascent of a good year. Peter's Arete E4/5, Wolfberg, SA (Photo: MacNae)

BMC Membership

Individual £15.00 (£7.50*) LETTERS UK individual with Car parks and disability Avon Travellers High magazine £39.00 (£31.50*) Family £25.50 I've just been reading issue 12 of Sum- I whole heartedly support the BMC's mit. I would just like to comment on a idea of compiling a Register of Incidents * denotes 50% discount on individual couple of points. The first on page 6, regarding the travellers in the Avon Gorge. membership for unwaged, under 18 and Cars in National Parks. I agree with you I do not understand how LS Ashton re- those in full time education (please that there is not really a parking problem gards this activity to be unpleasant. I am send proof of status). in Snowdonia except at obvious busy sure, like me, if LS Ashton had been in- times. Mid week, or in winter, is usually timidated by the travellers he/she would N I wish to join the BMC and enclose fairly OK, even if you just go out for the be glad that something was being done to afternoon. I don't think enough publicity sort out the difficulties caused by this a CQ/PO for £...... is given to the car park at Nant Peris. Over group of people. the years I have mentioned this to a Tolerence is very hard if somebody is N I wish to join the BMC and also number of visitors who had been unaware outwardly hostile and unpleasant towards subscribe to High Magazine at the of its existence. you for no reason at all. Such behaviour is specially reduced rate for BMC not regarded as criminal, so getting the po- members, and enclose payment of Also the article on page 32. I too now lice involved is not plausible. It is a civil £...... have a physical disability as the result of matter that should be dealt with by the an accident (not a spectacular leader fall, local council as LS Ashton rightly suggests. just down the stairs in work into a wall!). Without a register of incidents how is N Please debit my Access/ Visa Before that I worked for the NHS in North the council to know the seriousness of the account. My card numbers is: Wales and I took many colleagues into problem? I think it would be totally out- Snowdonia, sometimes with their clients. rageous, and have a decidedly facist tone, We had our own qualified instructor and if the BMC put pressure on the council to Expiry date: equipment. Not only did the staff benefit move the travellers without first gather- Name in the expected manner, but those who ing evidence that they were doing wrong. cared, or managed services, for mentally Tolerance to the traveller's lifestyle is Address and physically disabled began to see disa- not the issue here but the intolerence of bled people's need/desire for challenge in the travellers to climbers and the general a completely new way - so everyone ben- public. If they are not prepared to toler- efited even people who didn't go on a ate others then I do not see why they Date of Birth course. should be made welcome. Norma E. Bates Dan Forbes-Ford Signed Date See Forum for more on the Snowdonia Transport situation

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13 3

8165_Summit_13.p65 3 17/02/99, 11:47 Summit news

Access legislation It may never happen

The Government had promised to an- cess legislation and to keep pressure on General Election will be fought on a new nounce its decision on the Access to Open the Government to honour its manifesto manifesto. The Government is evidently Countryside consultation before Christ- commitment. finding that Access is a very contentious mas. Nothing has been heard. What’s Gordon Prentice’s Bill will be debated topic and is unlikely to make another mani- going on? in the House of Commons on Friday 26 festo commitment. Rumours of a delay in the Government’s March. It is crucial that the debate is well If we allow the Government to procras- announcement began to circulate in No- supported, as this will indicate to the Gov- tinate any longer we will lose this unique vember. In December Gordon Prentice, ernment the priority that they must give opportunity to increase access to our MP for Pendle, won fifth slot in the Pri- to an Access Bill in the main legislative mountains. It is vital that you press your vate Members Bill ballot and put down programme. It is still possible, but by no MP now to attend the debate of Gordon his own Bill on Access to the Open Coun- means certain, that Access legislation will Prentice’s Access Bill on 26 March. Write tryside. Private Members Bills very sel- be included in next autumn’s Queen’s to your local MP at the House of Com- dom survive their passage through parlia- Speech, to be debated in the parliamen- mons, London SW1A 0AA, or ring him ment. Nevertheless, this Bill is very sig- tary session 1999/2000. What is looking on 0171 219 3000. He must be there. nificant. It provides a valuable opportu- increasingly – and worryingly – likely is nity for MPs to demonstrate the wide- that this will be the last occasion when an spread support that exists for new Ac- Access Bill may be introduced. The next The Funicular A white elephant?

A large ‘white elephant’ may soon have its home in the Highlands, unless a reas- sessment is made of the proposed Cairn- gorm funicular development. Mountain- eers, conservation organisations, recreational groups and local residents continue their opposition to the plans and are urging the Government to reconsider its support for the project following publication of a new financial assessment. The proposals are bad news for mountaineers. The Management Plan, drawn up without public consultation, will bar exit from the top station in summer to protect important conservation sites from erosion. In winter, only downhill skiers will be allowed use of the funicular to gain access to the hills, with use of the funicular being refused to anyone equipped for mountaineering or hill walking. Car parking will be severely restricted and priced to be prohibitively high to deter parking by those wishing to stay longer than deemed necessary to use the funicular. The Chairlift Company, who will run the funicular, admits that the development “will almost certainly make Cairngorm less attractive to hill walkers”. Work could start as early as this spring. Independent assessment of the economic basis of the scheme suggests that it will not Cairngorm proposals bad news for mountaineers be financially viable and will fail to produce the promised local employment. Con- The BMC has joined the Mountaineer- posals. The BMC has taken the matter servation organisations continue to fight it ing Council of Scotland, Scottish Ramblers up with European Commissioners and is on environmental grounds. Mountaineers and supporters of the Cairngorms Cam- calling for a halt to plans whilst a fresh don’t want it. Why is it going ahead? paign in their condemnation of the pro- appraisal is made of the development.

AGM and Dinner 17 April: See Arena 4 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13

8165_Summit_13.p65 4 17/02/99, 11:48 Summit news The Winter Meet The 1999 International Winter Meet (Glenmore Lodge 7-13 March) is attract- ing a very strong line up from the world over with the likes of Huber, Marsingy, Hollinger & Takeda joining British hosts including Parkin, Ettle, Hinkes, Bonington and Cave for a week of serious winter action. At the time of writing registrations were coming in thick and fast and numbers may well exceed eighty. During the 1997 meet standards were extremely high, with some major ascents made, and 1999 should be no different. Of the other confirmed guests perhaps the most interesting is the Iranian contin- gent, headed by their federation president, who are very excited about the prospect of getting a Scottish hit in. As well as the climbing the meet participants will be discussing the future direction of winter climbing and mountaineering (following up the Alpine Club sym- posium discussions) and identifying threats that may be faced in the future. These meets can be very effective in form- ing an International consensus and in setting the agenda for both national federa- tions and the UIAA. Statements made by such an influential gathering can be used by campaigning groups to back up their case. An example of this is the support given by the 1998 Women’s Meet to the Friends of Yosemite campaign. The meet is organised jointly with the A strange business. What will the Iranians make of it? MCofS and is supported by Marmot. The meet also has UK Sports Council Support. New initiatives Climbing Rock The new video and booklet hit the streets for BUFT in January. The video depicts the learning The British Upland Footpath Trust has process as two climbers move from in- recently launched its new work programme door walls to multi pitch trad routes. It’s for 1999 to 2001, with some ambitious a warts and all approach and shows bad projects and new campaigns. Building on practice as well as good. Along the way its achievements in promoting high qual- the main characters, Alex and Ali, meet ity and sensitive path construction, BUFT up with the likes of Johnny Dawes, Seb will now step up its lobbying of funding Grieve, Airlie Anderson, Adam Wain- and management bodies to provide the re- wright and Martin Doyle who talk about sources necessary to achieve the high their own learning experiences and give standard of footpath work which our up- out a few top tips. The video is accompa- The new video and booklet lands deserve. Monitoring of path condi- nied by a 32 page booklet tion will give pathworkers useful feedback which details good practice on the long-term success of their work, and is designed to be use- and a further Award Scheme and Confer- ful to both novice and ex- ence are planned for 2000 and 2001 re- perienced climbers. spectively. With the expanding work programme The video and booklet is comes the need for more voluntary sup- available direct from the port. BUFT would be pleased to hear BMC office at £15.00 from anyone interested in contributing to (£12.50 to BMC mem- its work to promote good practice in path bers). construction and care for the uplands. AGM and Dinner 17 April: See Arena BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13 5

8165_Summit_13.p65 5 17/02/99, 11:49 Summit news Other news Guidebook Open BMC Alpine Meeting Lectures There is to be a Guidebook Open Evening to discuss Peak District Guide- in partnership with books on Wednesday 24th March 1999 Cotswold Outdoor at the Norfolk Arms, Ringinglow near Sheffield starting at 7.30 p.m. Anyone in- 15 March Nottingham Uni, Room A48 terested in getting involved in writing Social sciences block. scripts or producing guidebooks please, 16 March Southampton Uni, Education please attend. Help is sorely needed! Building Lecture Theatre Thanks. 17 March Warwick Uni, Ramphel Building 18 March Sheffield Uni, Student Union BMC Membership hits 24 March University College London 45,000 Edward Lewis Lecture Theatre. Figures for the 1998 year end show another dramatic growth in BMC member- This popular series of lectures will help ship with individual and club members you prepare for a rewarding season in the now totalling 45,000. Alps. The speakers, as always, will be high calibre mountaineers with a wealth £130,000 hospital fee of experience and exciting tales to tell. Top Prepare for the Alpine season technique tips and practical advice on with some practical advice for broken leg preparation, personal equipment and Yes, you do need insurance to cover those places to go will all be included. There Gripped? good news emergencies. One recent claim, just for will be the opportunity to have your ques- Gripped? is the BMC’s young members' hospital costs, for six British walkers in- tions answered in the interval and expert section and it received a boost recently jured in a road accident in America was advice on the best equipment available when HB agreed to support the Gripped? over £243,000. The hospital bill for just from Cotswold. magazine. HB are also providing equip- one of the injured, who had a broken leg ment on the Gripped? programme of out- was over £130,000. So, before finalising Tickets available from the BMC of- door events. that overseas dream holiday do not forget fice and Cotswold shops for £3. ‘We are thrilled to have the chance to be your BMC travel insurance. involved with youth development because BRYCS 99 update we realise that is where the future of the Lottery support A full list of venues for the British Re- sport lies’.- Shane Ohly, HB Climbing available gional Youth Competition Series will be is- Equipment. Outdoor pursuits groups and rescue or- sued next month. Lan- ganisations can qualify for Lottery grants cashire and Cheshire from the Charity Board. Small grants and team won last year 100% funding is available for projects with Yorkshire and aimed at disadvantaged and community Humberside second groups. Information is available in vari- and the Peak area third. ous languages, Braille, and audio cassette Many thanks to all of from the different Charity Boards for Eng- the walls that hosted land, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales events, and to the vol- and from www.nlcb.org.uk. unteers who helped out on the day. If you Expeditions record are brave enough to as- The UIAA Expeditions Commission has sist on the day or would recently initiated a program to record all just like to know more first ascents and new routes in the Greater contact Anne Arran at Ranges. The records for 1996 and 1997 the BMC offices. show British Expeditions heading the list The walls currently by a mile and this demonstrates the ben- participating in efit of the UK system where teams gain rounds 1, 2 and 3 are: the considerable benefit of UK Sports Scotland: Hadrians Emma Twyford is looking forward to BRYCS '99 Council and MEF support, which in many Wall, Glasgow Wall cases makes a trip possible. and Alien Rock (Photo: Ian Parnell) The Commission now needs information Peak: Nottingham, Foundry and the Edge Dates: 24 April round 1, May 8 round on 1998 ascents. A summary of each ex- South West: Bristol, The Warehouse 2, May 15 round 3, 24 May National pedition's objective and achievement Gloucester, Welsh International Climbing final. should be sent to Joss Lynam, President Centre Expeditions Commission, 7 Sorbonne, Yorkshire and Humberside: Leeds Wall Please contact the BMC or your local Ardilea Estate, Dublin 14, Ireland. Fax 353- Lakes & N.East: Penrith, Kendal, Rock participating wall for an application form. 1-283 1993, email: [email protected]. Antics All forms should be returned to the BMC.

New BMC Life Assurance Policy: See Briefing 6 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13

8165_Summit_13.p65 6 17/02/99, 11:53 Summit news Access to MoD Access roundup land Heighley Castle - geo-vandals strike BMC Access Rep Dave Bishop has reported that geo-vandals have been at work on In January the BMC joined other recrea- the soft sandstone of Heighley Castle Quarry, Staffordshire. The symptoms are exces- tion and conservation organisations at a sive wire brushing, resined in pebbles and holds sculptured out of resin. Some prob- meeting with the Ministry of Defence to lems have already been damaged: remember - it's better to raise your standard to match discuss the future management of the the rock rather than bringing the rock down to yours. MoD Rural Estate. The meeting, part of the Strategic Defence Review, was a valuable opportunity to press our case for Baggy Point - nesting restriction greater access to MoD land and to encour- The National Trust has agreed to lift the seasonal bird nesting restriction between age the military to be more open with ar- Scrattering Zawn and Slab Cove at an earlier date this year if the peregrine does not nest. rangements where access is granted. The restriction will be reviewed on 1 May. Please contact BMC Access Rep Rick Access Reps have reported that amongst Abbott (Tel: 01271 - 814716) or check site signs for details. their principal concerns are arrangements for military group use of crags on private Ravensdale, Peak – temporary nesting restriction land. This issue was outside the context English Nature has reported that peregrines and ravens are currently prospecting for of the meeting, but the BMC has been nest sites on Ravensdale crag, Cressbrook Dale. A temporary climbing restriction invited to take this up with the relevant (until mid-April) has been agreed by the BMC. This may be extended if the birds nest Chief of Staff. on the crag. Please check the signs on site or contact the BMC for details. The following telephone numbers can be used for enquiries concerning access to military ranges. (The list is far from com- White Scar – 5 year ban stands plete; please contact Susanna Perkins at The landowners of White Scar have recently written to the BMC ‘re-emphasising the BMC if you know of any other useful most strongly that under no circumstances do they wish to lift’ the 5 year climbing ban contact numbers which can be circulated which was imposed in September 1997. The Lake District National Park Authority to BMC members). and English Nature have both hinted that they would support limited climbing on the crag and the BMC will continue to pursue future access to this very important crag. MoD Contact numbers Castlelaw & Dreghorn 0131 310 2082 Winter Cliff Collapses Castlemartin 01437 764636 St Govans, Portland, Beachy Head & Lower Sharpnose ext 5135/5293 High levels of rainfall coupled with severe winter storms have caused a number of (Pembs National Park) significant sea cliff collapses in England and Wales. Most notably at St Govans Head, Catterick 01748 875045 Pembroke the four routes between D-Day and Fire Power (including the classic Consci- (Martin Watson) entious Objector) fell down in January. At Beachy Head, the recent cliff collapse (which Dartmoor 01837 52939 made front page news in the national press) has claimed the scalp of the Fowler chalk Longmoor 01252 348921 testpiece Sunday Sport (together with almost 200 metres of adjacent cliff) but fortunately Lulworth 01929 462721 Monster Crack remains for aspiring acsentionists. On the south fin at Lower Sharpnose, ext 4700/4859 North Devon four VS’s are reported to have fallen down and at Blacknor South, Portland Otterburn 0191 261 1046 there has been a landslide between Sacred Angel and Equinox. The cliff base between Salisbury Plain 01980 620819 these latter routes is now extremely unstable and access to the left side of Blacknor South Thorney Island 01234 388202 from the easy descent gully is not advised at present (please approach by abseil until the Watton Brook 01842 855235 cliff base has stabilised and remember - not all the routes top out!).

Breakthrough on Southern Sandstone Open Meeting 1999 Helitourism battle The annual Sandstone Open Meeting takes place at the Junction Inn, Groombridge on The MCofS report that in response to Sunday 16 May at 7.30pm. Topics for debate include Harrison’s erosion control work concerns raised by mountaineering bodies and future plans, High Rocks belays and Sussex Wildlife Trusts’ work at Eridge Green. the Scottish Office has issued new guidance to local authority planning depart- Range West ments. The guidance will make it more dif- Briefings 1999 ficult for helicopter operators to set up tourist flights over popular mountain areas. The 1999 briefing dates are Wye Valley – Climbers Agree 2 year as follows: Moratorium on Bolting Bristol Climbing Centre: Following concerns amongst local climbers about ‘factory bolt- Thurs 17 June 8pm ing’ in the Wye Valley, 45 climbers met at the Gloucester Ware- Plas y Brenin, Snowdonia: house on 6 February to debate the local bolt policy. BMC Access Sat 10 July 8pm Rep John Willson and local activist Martyn Cattermole presented Castlemartin Range: counter proposals and the meeting agreed overwhelming support Sat 14 August 6.30pm All climbers wishing to visit for a 2 year moratorium on all new bolting in the area. A working Range West this year must group will be reviewing the bolt policy and the moratorium could attend a briefing. be lifted in 1 year if a suitable agreement is reached. Trevor Messiah on Access Forum Report page 28 Range West (Photo: Carl Ryan) BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13 7

8165_Summit_13.p65 7 17/02/99, 11:54 Summit news The Brave New World of Artificial Boulders A personal view by Ken Wilson Climbers in the North East of England with a flat, firm sand/gravel base akin to ders could re- are the beneficiaries of the first artificial the best known natural bouldering exam- place the ubiq- outdoor boulder schemes in Britain. Fol- ples. The BMC has advised against any uitous benches lowing hard on the commercial project at sort of spongy safety surface, advocating and bookcases Whickham Thornes a group of artificial just a firm, clean, well-drained and level for families seeking to commemorate the boulders have recently been erected on the base so as to give no inducement (particu- lives to their deceased loved ones (“the brow of a hill on the western fringes of larly to youngsters) to jump off from any C.I.C. Cluster” or the “Longland Block”). Hartlepool. The project has been devel- great height. This advice when combined Whether such a desirable evolution is pos- oped by Hartlepool Borough Council with careful design and the attendant, “no sible will probably hinge on the question working in close liaison with the British rules, no payment” regime, is seen as es- “can replicas of the best known natural Mountaineering Council plus youth and sential in getting the boulders established, climbing be established without subject- special interest groups. ing the sponsor/administrator to The result is an exciting new vexatious litigation in the event addition to local climbing with 8 of the rare accidents and injuries boulders offering a multiplicity that inevitably attend a risk of problems in an invigorating sport?” country setting, with fine views. The Hartlepool Boulders are From the outset the BMC has important as they will pose this seen this as a development question from the outset. The at- which, if successful in terms of tendant photos (taken before the both management and design, final landscaping was completed) could point the way to many give some idea of the scheme. Its similar projects in the future, success depends on the approval particularly in areas with little and regular use by both climbers local climbing. The aim (not at and locals. Certainly there is all easy to achieve) is to clone in room for considerable (and prob- artificial terms the best known ably desirable) additional boul- natural bouldering with no ders. They are close to a large screw-on holds and no bolts (the housing estate and it will be in- summits having, instead, threads teresting to see if a new genera- or bollards for any top roping or tion of Joe Browns and Paul belaying that might be required). Pritchards emerges from among The designers, Rockworks, Three of the boulders during construction. The the locals. The potential pay- were asked to create a series of offs in terms of challenging out- natural-looking boulders offering hill top site gives them a fine atmosphere. door recreation for all are enor- characterful climbs of all stand- mous, but will an increasingly ards with the stress on the middle to easier from the outset as outdoor recreational safety-conscious society allow it to hap- grades of difficulty. The nearby main edge facilities on which safety is a matter that pen? As a sporting institution our job is at Scugdale, in the Cleveland Hills was is left totally to the judgement of the user to ensure that the idea becomes established considered to offer the ideal balance of - exactly as on natural boulders. and respectable without compromising difficulty and quality that would be likely If the Hartlepool Boulders can be suc- any traditional freedom. In theory there is to appeal to the broadest group of climb- cessfully established, the potential for no reason why we shouldn’t have good ers. The Council was advised that a “no rock starved areas elsewhere in Britain is bouldering in the wildest corners of Nor- rules, no payment regime” was required enormous. Lottery grants could hasten this folk or Berkshire! so that the atmosphere would be as close process and one could even see the spon- The Summerhill Project was developed as possible to that found in natural sored boulder as a permanent feature on by Hartlepool Borough Council in conjunc- bouldering areas. A hilltop location was the landscape “the Karrimor Pinnacle” or tion with the Countryside Commission and chosen with a southerly aspect offering “the Berghaus Arch” (discreetly inscribed Tees Forest. Funding for the bouldering park fine views across Teeside to the Cleve- of course) vying for both design and climb- came from the Lottery Sports Fund and European ERDF programme. land Hills. The boulders are surrounded ing excellence. Appeals for memorial boul-

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TREKKING IN TIBET “Miss Frederickson, well over sixty, walked all the way from India, over fourteen-thousand-foot passes, disdaining the help of either pony or dandy. For forty years she had been longing to visit Tibet…” Twenty Years in Tibet, by David MacDonald, 1921

Lamayuru. The Monastry goes back 1000 years.

For many walkers and mountaineers, not to mention arm- sequently find their movement restricted. In August this year, chair travellers, mystics and romantics, Tibet remains the ulti- for the first time, I and a party of walkers were turned back as mate dream destination. It is important therefore to stress we tried to walk up the glacier at the foot of Everest. Two that any person in normal good health and physically fit should representatives of the Chinese Mountaineering Association raced expect no problems walking in Tibet, and that is as true for after us at impressive speed to bar our way and inform us that a people in their seventies as in their teens. Of course the alti- new regulation had come into force denying the ordinary walker tude – rarely less than 13,000 feet – will leave you rather access even to Everest’s lower slopes, unless they had first breathless if you try to walk too fast, uphill, or with a heavy obtained a permit in Lhasa. It was, they said, dangerous and we load on your back, but given common sense, any normal per- might need rescuing. However it would cease to be dangerous if son can survive happily provided they don’t expect the eve- we obtained a permit. ryday luxuries we take for granted – like a shower or bath after mountains are now commodities a hard day! The reality of course is that mountains are now commodities movement restricted from which income may be obtained, and popular routes in At the moment Chinese regulations do not allow parties of Tibet, as in so many other wide open spaces, are gradually tourists into Tibet from Nepal unless there is a minimum of becoming subject to regulations and fees. Fortunately there are five people. Smaller groups or even individuals may squeeze still many unfrequented places in Tibet though solo travel is across Tibet’s eastern border from China proper but may sub- currently not permitted. A group entering from Nepal must

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8165_Summit_13.p65 10 17/02/99, 13:16 obtain a Group Visa, from the Chinese embassy in Kathmandu Bosses. Quiet-spokenness and courtesy are respected every- which lists all the members of the party and the places the where and will get you further than loud talk and argument. party intends to visit. You cannot visit a place unless it is on Small groups of not more than ten people blend in best with the your Group Visa so you need to plan your route in advance. environment. Tibetans welcome tourists whom they see as Subsequent alterations are possible upon payment of a fee at a allies against the Chinese. Compared with them, any tourist is local branch of the PSB (Chinese police) but they are time- rich and it is a courtesy well received to make some gift to a consuming and you may find yourself a long way from a PSB poor community. Two parties I took this year donated US office that is empowered to alter your visa. $100 per person (US $ 1000 per party) towards the setting up walking on my own of village schools and we also took in substantial quantities of When it was possible I have enjoyed walking on my own. Ladybird Books and other such readers, pens and toys to dis- The benefits are obvious: you walk at your own pace, can stop tribute to schools en route. as and when you please, are responsible only to your self and you can blend in with the local people – farmers, or more Useful books: frequently, nomadic herdsmen. But there are drawbacks, chief Trekking in Tibet by Gary McCue, Cordee Books, Leicester of which is that you must carry your own luggage. This is Nomads of Eastern Tibet by Melvyn Goldstein and Cynthia hugely exhausting as you will need a tent, cooking facilities and Beall, Serindia food for a start. An over-heavy rucksack forced me on one Flowers of the Himalaya by Oleg Polunin and Adam Stainton, occasion when crossing three mountain ranges in succession to Oxford unload my pack, divide the contents into two, and climb up and down twice. Although well acclimatised (I had been in Tibet Useful Trekking Agent in Kathmandu: Tibet Travels and for three months) I had to stop every five paces to draw breath Tours, Tridevi Marg, Thamel, Kathmandu and this at only seventeen thousand feet. It would, of course, have been quite different if I had had a porter to carry my pack! Useful NGO in UK: Tibet Society & Relief Fund of the You may also be overtaken by dramatic changes of weather as UK, 114 Tottenham Court Road, London W1P 9HL sudden hailstorms and electric storms of unparalleled ferocity are common in Tibet’s mountain regions. The solo traveller would be foolhardy to camp on his own because in some glens John Billington is a former Chairman of there are wild animals, like leopards, wolves and bears, whose the Tibet Society of the UK. proximity (even if they intend you no harm) is alarming. The solution is to stop at the tent (black yak-hair usually) of a nomad and ask permission to camp. It is important to do this: Tibet – Occupied by China since it is, after all, his area and is patrolled by his guard-dogs who 1950 will happily include you in the livestock to be defended against In 1950 the Chinese Army invaded Tibet, a previously night intruders. But beware of entering a nomad camp after independent country with a strong cultural identity and Bud- nightfall when the guard-dogs are unleashed! A small present dhist religion. Since then 120,000 Tibetans have fled their to your nomad host is courteous. Anyone intending to travel country, risking death and hardship on the journey. Most of on his own, when that again becomes possible, should be able these refugees have settled in India and Nepal. to make himself understood in Tibetan. exciting treks For the present, you will have to be part of a group. Some The Tibet Relief Fund exciting treks are now available with regular tour providers to The Tibet Relief Fund was established to support the refu- Tibet including one which follows the route of celebrated plant- gees fleeing Tibet. It funds projects that provide education, hunters like Kingdon-Ward, Bailey, Sherriff and Ludlow in east- vocational training, medical care and environmental protec- ern Tibet, north of the Bhutan and Burma borders. Alterna- tion within the refugee communities, and within Tibet itself. tively, you can go to Kathmandu and get a local Tibetan travel Donations are vital to its work. Details and further informa- agent to arrange a trek for you. A good one for the fit walker is tion are available from Tibet Relief Fund, 114-115 Tottenham to the Kangshung Face of Everest, which will give you about Court Road, London W1P 9HL. Please enclose an SAE to ten days walking with guides and yaks carrying your luggage. keep our administrative costs to a minimum. You will be unlucky if you don’t see gazelle, beaver, marmots, blue sheep and mountain hares; and discover twenty or more flowers that you haven’t met before. You can, with a little “Please help us to help experience, organise your own trekking route and get a travel agent in Kathmandu or Lhasa to arrange guide and carrying these mountain people” animals. Many trekkers will want to equip themselves to the eye- brows with the latest gadgets and specialist gear but personally DRY-LONGLIFE CLIMBING ROPES I favour simplicity and taking nothing unnecessary. Elaborate UIAA UIAA MADE FOR JO ROYLE BY EDELRID equipment alienates you from the environment and from the CE CE 9.0 mm x 45m £57.90 local people. Unless you are going above the snowline or in x 50m £65.90 x 55m £69.90 winter no specialist wear is needed: Tibetan nomads and farm- 11.0 mm x 45m £69.90 ers will walk comfortably at seventeen thousand feet with a x 50m £78.90 pair of trainers purchased locally. But a good sleeping-bag, x 55m £86.90 waterproof anorak and inner fleece are recommended. occupied country Jo Royle 6 MARKET PLACE, BUXTON, OTHER LENGTHS Tibet is an occupied country and care should be taken not to DERBYSHIRE SK17 6EB BY MAIL AVAILABLE involve your Tibetan hosts in any trouble with their Chinese TEL: BUXTON (01298) 25824 FREE Fax: (01298) 78545 P&P SEND FOR OUR CATALOGUE . . . “fantastic value quality ropes, dry treated BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13 (sheath & core) and longlife treated for durability” .11 . .

8165_Summit_13.p65 11 19/02/99, 9:04 1999 World Championships Focus:British Senior Team We currently have a host of young talent evolving in the British junior team, with Adam Dewhurst currently ranked 6th in the World. With Ian Vickers as European Champion and a host of highly motivated team members, things are looking promising for the end of the year and the Birmingham World Championships. Here a couple of potential top performers are profiled by Anne Arran.

Claire Murphy Claire has made amazingly rapid progress in the world of competitions. I spoke to her to try to find out how or why.

AA: What attracted you to climbing? CM: I wanted to do something physical that wasn’t brain dead.

AA|: You have been very motivated lately and improved enormously in the last year and a half. How have you made your improve- ments? CM: By exploring what is needed to perform at a high level and now I am starting to organise it.

AA: What sort of climbing will you concentrate on in the next 2 years? CM: I hope to be doing some hard sport routes and climb as hard as possible internationally. Doing the French bouldering ‘Top Rock’ challenge competitions is fun.

AA: Doing hard things seems to be a bit of a theme for you and you seem to improve rapidly. What is your strongest attribute? CM: I enjoy the toughness of climbing, coping with stress and I like to go out looking for it. Generally I like it when life is hard mentally & physically. When you do something it is important to look at the whole picture. Usually I enjoy the chance to Claire at the BICC (Photo: Adrian Berry) be under mental pressure in competition. Not just doing it on the day, but it is a chance to perform what you have practised, her as a non-climber about events like TRC and X Games and it is very measurable. The performance is more like dance Mad Masters or the World Championships? or ice skating than non-competition styles of climbing. CM: Just give her a call. The X games is an extreme sports event of which climbing is a part. It includes other activities such as AA: Does it make you stronger in other aspects of life? skate boarding and BMX. CM: Yes. AA: If you were organising World Championships would you in- AA: Has it been like that with anything else in your life? clude any other sports? CM: I often have to use my whole body to learn things. School did CM: You could but you don’t want climbing to get dominated by nothing for me, I couldn’t cope with that environment but I other sports. Bouldering speed competitions are fun to watch. did teach myself guitar and violin very quickly. I used to do You set 6 problems in a row then time each person doing the farming that was very physical and enjoyable - anything from 6 problems in a row, as fast as they can, or 2 people racing at tractor driving to milking. the same time on identical structures. Or a Fabator Trophy. These are long dynos off two handholds and any foot holds. AA: You are still interested in farming and whole grain foods. Do It is a knock out competition with the top holds that you go you still have an involvement in this or have any tips to give for being moved progressively higher. The audience was people on food supplements? screaming and shouting. It was a brilliant atmosphere. CM: I don’t like vegetables that much, so I take spiriglina algae, seaweed and eat whole grains. I don’t eat any specific amounts Top Tips from Claire of food or special sports diet but bake my own bread. I still • Learn how to train. Recognise when it is hard how to keep like to know how everything grows, and what is healthy, and pushing your standard up. Be prepared to sit back at times keep up to date through soil association magazines. That is and relax. Taking a break is important. how I ate for a long time and felt better as a result. • Learn what your skills are. Not many people push the boundries of what they are capable of to make them- AA: What was good about Top Rock challenges? selves improve. CM: You had a feeling of being at the central point of the competi- • Work with other people. They will help you do what you tion. There was a real buzz. That was where it was at. Euro- don't want to. You can’t do it on your own. peans, including the Russians were making money over the 6 • Enjoy it! weeks. It is more exciting than the World Cups – yes it was good being outside in the open. Claire came second in the last round of the British Indoor Climbing Championships in Warwick. AA: Your sister Suzanna works for Eurosport in France and is going out to cover the X Games. What do you think appeals to Adrian Berry is profiled on page 31 Climb99 and the World Competition Climbing Championships will take place at the NIA, Birmingham from 3 to 5 December.

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EquitEquityy incorporated?incorporated? By Anne Arran The BMC is like an octopus with many tentacles, but how far gramme have had an exciting time trekking in Nepal, spending do they reach? In some areas of BMC work they reach out a long time in local villages and taking part in projects providing educa- way, with the aim of influencing government policy, and in oth- tional or environmental support to the local community. Many ers to support expeditions in ascents of spectacular unclimbed of these young people have been climbing with the youth service peaks in the Himalaya. The UK Sports Council can identify and or community education department as if it were a BMC climb- quantify the size of the sport and the nature of work that the ing club. Not just for a few weeks, but for a number of years, and BMC undertakes. But are we understood and recognised by they have aspirations to go to the Alps, to climb E4 on grit or local authorities and education departments for example? Some just have a harness to go out on Stanage with a washing line (not recognise the need for qualifications, perceiving climbing as a risk recommended!). They are in fact young climbers just as any activity. Some recognise that there may be things to learn, or that Gripped? member but generally come from a very different back they need to cover themselves by benefiting from good practice ground than that of the average white middle class Gripped? advice. Is the community and recreation department in Man- Member. chester aware that the headquarters of a National representative Mutual benefits body sits on their doorstep? And are there partnerships and Should the BMC broaden its horizons to work more closely links that could be made to enhance both party's interest in with other organisations? There could be mutual benefits in the outdoor education and involvement of young people in climbing. sharing of knowledge, skill and resources between the organisa- The youth programme tions and the young climbers involved. Very few people realise that Gripped? exists as the youth membership of the BMC or that it has events and informal training programmes. Until recently the youth programme has largely In order to start the ball rolling the following layout has focused on running, co-ordinating or supporting events for young been proposed for the 1999 BMC youth activity programme. climbers who are existing BMC members. Nowadays the British The programme will focus on equity as well as training and Regional Competition Series (BRYCS) and the Youth Festivals good practice issues. involve a fuller spectrum of young climbers whose parents may not necessarily climb or be able to afford to send their children Youth Service Project – Outer Zone off to a wall club. In a world of increasing commercialisation of climbing, what other options exist for less priviledged young climbers or those from different cultural backgrounds? This is What? something that the Andy Fanshaw Memorial Trust and to some extent the Rachel Farmer Trust have already explored. The AFMT A days activity climbing followed by a slide show and games in gives discretionary grants to people who want to visit the moun- the Zone Centre. tains and crags and learn climbing skills but lack the means to do so. Through the Jonathan Conville Memorial Trust alpine, win- What next? ter and mountain craft courses are run to pass on good practice messages and advice to those students who have similar adven- To facilitate an ongoing club project. turous goals as the late Jonathan Conville. The Scottish Moun- tain Trust helps to support Scottish applicants. Why? Other options Beyond the BMC youth programme a myriad of other organi- To show how Gripped? members can get involved with their sations use climbing, both indoors and out, as a vehicle to engen- local youth service activities and climb outdoors. For climbing der self-confidence, teamwork, trust, environmental awareness, parents to meet non climbing parents in the evening. To target increase motivation and raise levels of health and fitness. Many young women specifically. of these programmes at national and regional level have been operating for a number of years and have demonstrated good Gripped? Drop In Activities at PyB results. Programmes of this type are not just heavily subsidised taster sessions on an indoor wall. Some young people on the pro- What?

Day or half day sessions in multi-activity, single pitch sports climbing and mountain day.

Why?

To provide an opportunity for any Gripped? member to book into a skills session for a reduced cost through the BMC with the aim of providing this for as many young Gripped? members as possible. Parents and local walls clubs will be encouraged to arrange an activity on the following day.

A group in Nepal (Photo: Sue Carrott)

14 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13

8165_Summit_13.p65 14 19/02/99, 9:09 BMC Youth Top Performance weekend supporting excellence

What?

A 2-day performance rock skills weekend.

Why?

To provide performance coaching for 1998 and 1999 BRYCS finalists to improve their climbing performance indoors and out. To provide a meeting ground for the exchange of ideas and climbing partners. Places will be given first to those who have done little climbing outdoors.

Family Youth Meet at Plas y Brenin 'climbing both indoors and out as a vehicle to engender self-confidence, teamwork, trust, What? environmental awareness, increase motivation, raise levels of health and fitness' A series of workshops for parents and multi activities for younger Gripped? members. These programmes will involve us in a two way educational proc- Including: ess and provide a lot of enjoyment for a greater variety of social and Youth event management and organisation cultural groups of young climbers. Involvement of clubs and parents from a legal perspective Finally we see these projects as examples of what can be done to Belaying workshop and a chance to climb inspire and pass on skills to young climbers. They are by no means Other organisations offering climbing opportunities for youngsters an exhaustive list of what is possible. Videos on types of climbing available in the UK and abroad We would like UK wide focus with projects in other areas. If there Regional strategies for development for young climbers is any way other organisations or individuals would like to be involved, please contact the Training Officer at the BMC. See the next issue of Summit for more information on BRYCS 99 Why? and how to join Gripped? youth events and UIAA training camps. To increase parents' knowledge of climbing and to encourage and provide support for the volunteer network.

International Events UIAA Youth Camps

The BMC would like to help some Gripped? members attend the following the UIAA youth camps: Sports climbing in Aus- tria for 14-17 year olds, climbing in the Pyrenees for 16-21 year olds and family mountaineering in Slovenia for 5-10 year olds.

BRYCS 99

Entrance for parents on family credit or income support subsidised by the BMC.

Evenwood Groundwork Project

A project involving a series of climbing sessions, outdoor meets BULGING WITH with overall emphasis on improving opportunities and increasing environmental awareness in inner city communities. CLIMBING GEAR And finally HB climbing equipment will be providing climbing Many shops claim to be climbing specialists. equipment on some of the meets as part of their support in Gripped? At Rock On we sell Climbing/Mountaineering equipment & Books and absolutely nothing else. NOTHING ELSE. We must be mindful of the negative potential of more young people on the crags and the potential for increased impact on our exist- Now that’s specialist. ing environmental resources. To promote climbing would be wrong Rock On but to show existing young climbers the variety of inspiring adven- at YHA Adventure Shops tures available with their potential hazards seems like a worthy option. 14 Southampton Street Birmingham Climbing Cntr’ Covent Garden, Londonand A.B. Row WC2E 7HY Birmingham B4 7RB BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13 Tel: 0171 836 8541 Tel: 0121 359 8709 15

8165_Summit_13.p65 15 19/02/99, 9:13 Bolts update Summit presents the latest views

In Summit 12 and the recent climbing magazines, the successful 3. New route development should not affect the character of October 1998 bolt meeting at The Foundry was discussed. The existing routes. For example, a new sport route should not meeting debated the development of Peak limestone and (some) have bolts placed that are clippable from an existing route – quarried crags and sought to develop a set of principles that would regardless of whether that existing route is a sport route or a act as consensus guidance for those developing these venues. route with no fixed equipment. Since the publication of this report the BMC has received 4. Retro-bolting is sometimes acceptable where other forms of feedback from a variety of interested climbers whose views are fixed equipment exists, for example, where a crag or section summarised below. of crag is, by consensus, a sport crag and some of the routes The lists of Peak crags where no further bolting should take depend on pegs as fixed equipment. In this case the replace- place, which was proposed at the meeting by Gary Gibson and ment of this fixed equipment may be better achieved by the also presented in Summit 12, has received widespread support placement of bolts than the replacement of pegs. On the but the office has yet to receive any further suggestions. It is the other hand, where a route has only one or two pieces of old remaining so called ‘grey area’ crags to which a set of guidelines, fixed equipment in disrepair a difficult decision may need to when agreed, will apply. be made as to how the route will be changed; - should it become a semi-equipped route, or an unequipped route? The purpose of this article is to draw together the feedback we 5. Retro-bolting where no previous fixed equipment exists would have received and present what appears to be the evolving ma- only very rarely be acceptable. No simple criteria can be de- jority/consensus view. fined here. The fact that a route with no fixed equipment exists At this stage it is vital that you feel able to be involved and amongst a number of sport routes does not mean that it should if your views differ or you wish to support the position out- also become a sport route, even if it is only very rarely climbed. lined below, then please contact us by post, fax, telephone Exceptions to this principle will be very unusual. or email. 6. A “naturally protectable” route Without input from climbers we cannot be defined on paper. It is a sub- cannot be in a position to get this jective judgement, which must be made important issue right. The more about each individual potential new thorough our efforts to canvass route. Activists must consider the po- opinion now, the more likely that tential ability of other climbers when we establish a position that is ac- making this judgement, as the interests ceptable to the vast majority of of future generations must be taken into climbers for a longer period of account when considering the develop- time. It is also very important to ment of unclimbed rock. recognise that although we partici- pate in a constantly evolving SPORT CLIMBING world, we have a duty to protect the diverse heritage of British DEVELOPMENT climbing regardless of other short- The development of sport climbs term interests. has a greater impact on the rock than The difficult task is to accom- The bolts debate: Feedback received the development of unequipped modate the views and to protect the interests of all climbers routes. For this reason those who create new sport routes must without preventing innovative development. seek the views of other climbers before proceeding in order to avoid conflicts and the potentially damaging impact of bolt re- In summary, it looks like the common view resulting from the moval if the development is considered unjustifiable. Foundry meeting and the correspondence we have received since then is as follows. When reading this you may wish to refer to 1. The demand for sport climbs should not be pro-actively the original questions, which the following attempt to answer: catered for. The demand for sport climbs should not be a factor when deciding whether a new line should be bolted or GUIDELINES not. This is a key principle, as it will prevent the retrospec- 1. Climbers need “Guidelines” for the development of existing tive bolting of unpopular and bold climbs. and new crags rather than a rigid “Policy”. 2. If an unequipped route has received few ascents this should 2. The Guidelines must reflect a broad view of all climbers and not influence the decision as to whether it can be retro-bolted not result only from the interests of the activists who are or not. involved in the new developments. 3. New sport routes need to be justified more so than new 3. The success of these Guidelines will rely on careful judge- unequipped routes. The first ascentionist therefore has a ments made by activists. Wherever possible they are en- duty to seek the views of others before placing bolts. couraged to canvass opinion from other climbers before new 4. Sanctions such as the removal of bolts would be justifiable if bolt placements are made. ill-judged sport climbing developments took place which dis- regarded the principles contained in this summary. KEY PRINCIPLES OF ALL NEW On the question of funding for bolts, no clear consensus has DEVELOPMENTS yet emerged. Some feel the BMC should fund this but more lean 1. Naturally protectable lines (see point 6) should be climbed toward a bolt fund administered by local climbers and supported without fixed protection by levies on guidebook sales. 2. If an existing sport route is on sight flashed without clipping the bolts this does not invalidate the route and give the climber To contribute to this on going process write (or email) to: The the right to remove the bolts. National Officer, BMC Office ([email protected]).

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Altitude An information service special MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, OEDEMAS, & TRAVEL TO HIGH ALTITUDES Adapted for the UIAA mountain medical advice sheet by Dr. Charles Clarke

"the simple adage of gaining height slowly and descending promptly if one is ill - advice known for generations in all high countries - cannot be bettered"

High on Gasherbrum IV (Photo Andy Perkins) When people travel to altitudes above 3500m (11,500ft) lack The question “How high, how fast?” has no absolute answer of oxygen can sometimes bring on a family of related medical because of individual variation, but it is reasonable for healthy conditions. There is a wide variation in both the speed of onset people of any age to travel rapidly to 3500m, though many will and severity of symptoms, and also at the height at which they develop AMS after arrival. It is unwise to travel much above occur. Anyone travelling to altitude should be aware of symp- 3500m immediately from sea level. toms related to the various conditions and know how to react if Above 3500m the speed of further height gain should be gradual any member of the party falls ill. and we advise taking a week above 3500m before sleeping at 5000m. The highest altitude where man lives permanently is about 5500m Acute Mountain Sickness (18,000ft) but on mountaineering expeditions or on trek, residence Most people feel at least a little unwell if they drive, fly or for several weeks around 6000m (20,000ft) is quite possible and at travel by train from sea level to 3500m. Headache, fatigue, undue these altitudes one should feel entirely well when acclimatised, breathlessness on exertion, the sensation of the heart beating being limited only by breathlessness on exertion. forcibly, loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, difficulty sleeping and irregular breathing during sleep are the common Prediction and Prevention of Acute complaints. These are symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness Mountain Sickness (AMS) which usually develop during the first 36 hours at alti- There is unfortunately no way of predicting who will be seri- tude and not immediately on arrival. Well over 50% of travellers ously troubled by AMS and who will escape it. It is tempting to develop some form of AMS at 3500 m, but almost all do so if suppose that being physically fit and avoiding smoking would they ascend rapidly to 5000m (16,400ft). help in prevention but unfortunately this does not seem to be the case. Strenuous exercise at altitude, whether or not the subject is Acclimatisation fit, makes Acute Mountain Sickness worse: undue exertion and Usually these unpleasant effects of lack of oxygen wear off heavy loads should therefore be avoided until acclimatised. Pa- over two to three days, particularly if no further ascent is made. tients with heart or lung disease or high blood pressure should Once acclimatised in this way further gradual height gain is pos- seek specialist advice before travelling above 4000m. sible although symptoms may recur.

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8165_Summit_13.p65 18 19/02/99, 9:00 Prevention of AMS: Diamox The treatment of all forms of AMS is summarised below There has been much research on Diamox (acetazolamide), a drug used to reduce fluid retention (it makes you urinate). There Peripheral Oedema & Retinal is no doubt that Diamox is genuinely useful in the prevention of Acute Mountain Sickness if taken for several days before ascent. Haemorrhages I usually give Diamox, one 250mg tablet twice daily for 3 days Fluid retention causing swelling of the face, an arm or a leg is before ascent to 3500m (or more), and for two more days, i.e. sometimes noticed on waking or after a long march. This is Pe- five days in all. Exactly how it works is unknown but its effect ripheral Oedema. This usually subsides over several days and on breathing, (making breathing faster and deeper in sleep) may does not herald Pulmonary or Cerebral Oedema. be more important than its direct effect on the output of urine. Travellers who choose to take Diamox should be aware of its Haemorrhages into the retina (minute blood blisters in the back unwanted effects - for all drugs have their dangers. Diamox makes of the eye) are known to occur quite commonly around 5000m some people feel nauseated and generally unwell and causes tin- but very rarely cause any problems, being unnoticed by the gling of the fingers quite commonly. These cease when the drug is subject and visible only to a trained observer with specialist stopped. Reported more unusual side effects include flushing, equipment (an ophthalmoscope). Very occasionally these tiny rashes, thirst, drowsiness or excitement. A test day (or two) of haemorrhages interfere with vision (causing a “hole in the vi- Diamox at sea level, well before a trip, is sometimes suggested. It sion”): descent is advised. Complete recovery is usual. should be noted that Diamox is not recommended as a routine drug before any ascent: many mountaineers and trekkers prefer Summary to do without it. Acute Mountain Sickness is a common and minor, though de- bilitating problem of high altitude. Rarely it leads to two, poten- Acute Mountain Sickness: Treatment tially fatal conditions - Pulmonary and Cerebral Oedema - both It is important to emphasise that Acute Mountain Sickness, of which are medical emergencies. though unpleasant, is usually a self-limiting condition without serious sequelae. Aspirin, Panadol (paracetamol), or Neurofen In giving advice about travel to high altitudes it must be help the headache, and drugs used for travel sickness such as stressed that the simple adage of gaining height slowly and Avomine (promethazine), Stemetil (prochlorperazine) and descending promptly if one is ill - advice known for genera- Stugeron (cinnarizine) may help the nausea and dizziness. Dex- tions in all high countries - cannot be bettered. More de- amethasone (a steroid) is also used. Oxygen by mask also helps tailed notes about treatment follow. the symptoms. Personally I tend to use no drugs unless really necessary because the symptoms usually resolve: the only cure is to become TREATMENT OF AMS, acclimatised to the lack of oxygen. The most important treatment is not to go higher if one has symptoms and to consider PULMONARY AND CEREBRAL losing altitude if either recovery does not take place within sev- OEDEMA eral days - and certainly, if symptoms become steadily worse. Mild AMS Severe Forms of AMS: High Altitude 1. Rest days, relaxation, descent? Pulmonary and Cerebral Oedema 2. Aspirin, paracetamol, Neurofen In less than 2% of travellers AMS occurs in several serious 3. Drugs for nausea & vomiting (see text - they are often forms at 4000-5000m and occasionally lower. High Altitude unhelpful) Pulmonary Oedema is one, in which fluid accumulates in the lungs and causes severe illness (which may come on in minutes) Severe AMS/High Altitude Cerebral Oedema recognised by breathlessness and sometimes a bubbling sound in 1. Descent, evacuation, oxygen the chest. 2. Dexamethasone 8 mg by mouth followed by 4 mg every Early pulmonary oedema should be suspected if breathless- 6 hours for 24 hours ness at rest occurs or if someone has what appears to be a per- 3. Pressure bag sistent cough or chest infection causing breathlessness. Patients with pulmonary oedema are dangerously ill and should High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema be evacuated to a lower altitude as an emergency. Frequently a 1. Descent, evacuation, oxygen descent of only 500m (1500ft) is sufficient to improve the situ- 2. Nifedipine 20 mg by mouth + 20 mg every 6 hours for 24 ation dramatically. Oxygen by mask is helpful as are specially hours designed Pressure Bags (portable compression chambers), 3. Pressure bag nifedipine and steroid drugs (see Cerebral Oedema). Cerebral Oedema is another form of Acute Mountain Sickness, Severe Altitude Sickness, type unknown also a relative rarity. It is due to fluid collecting within the brain. No harm is likely if all treatments are given: Patients become irrational, drowsy and confused over a period 1. Descent, evacuation, oxygen of hours and their walking becomes unsteady. Double vision 2. Dexamethasone as above may occur. Again the condition is a serious one and evacuation to 3. Nifedipine as above low altitudes mandatory. Steroid drugs such as dexamethasone 4. Pressure bag (Decadron) are used in treatment, and pressure chambers. In both these conditions medical advice is desirable though it Information brochures from the UIAA Mountain Medicine may well not be available. Anyone suspected of having pulmo- Centre are available from the British Mountaineering Council, nary or cerebral oedema should be evacuated to lower altitude Royal Geographical Society, and the Alpine Club. promptly and should certainly not go high again until they have been seen by a doctor. Complete recovery is usual in both if they have been treated early and appropriately.

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8165_Summit_13.p65 19 17/02/99, 13:40 Climb when you're ready Olly Sanders

Essential skills: Belaying 7. Am I belaying the same side as I’m tied into my anchors? Make sure that you are not belaying across your body, this Recent Summit articles have looked at different types of belay- is very hard to hold as the body gets rotated if shock loaded ing devices and their properties. But whatever type of device making it very difficult to get the plate in a locking position. you use it is important to remember fundamental principles to If the rope to the anchor passes over your left hip, then the avoid making serious errors. The aim of this article is to identify left hand should hold the “dead” end of the rope and vice some common mistakes and maybe provide a few tips to help versa. you avoid making them. Other things to be aware of: Belaying from the foot of the route √ Most climbers clip the belay device to one of their front gear Single or multi pitch climbs loops when it’s not in use, just be careful you don’t belay (or 1. Make sure you belay close in, this avoids pulling runners abseil) off this loop by mistake (I’ve seen it done). A solution when load is applied, also pulling you into the crag. Try is to clip it to a rear loop so you have to clip it off and on to sitting with your back to the crag looking sideways. belay. Think about which way your partner is leaving the belay 2. Think about weight difference, with smaller partners con- and sort out the belay device before they leave. This may sider tying them to ground anchors. involve tying off on the plate or tying off into the anchors if you wish to change the plate around. 3. If you’re Sport Climbing (or lowering off a route), there is often a chance you could lower your partner off the end of √ the rope with disastrous consequences. By tying into the Always get that first runner in as soon rope or putting a knot in the end this will never happen. as possible to avoid fall Factor 2’s.

Bringing up a second √ Remember to watch your partner as they climb and be prepared to give them rope Single or multi pitch climbs when they clip runners and take in the You’ve arrived at the top of your pitch and are ready to con- slack when they climb past. (You’ll soon struct a sound belay. Think about these points. get the message if it’s too tight.)

Are the best anchors high or low? 1. √ Working with double ropes will require Low anchors will not support you if you stand to belay and more thought and dexterity especially the weight comes onto the rope. If there are no good anchors when paying out and taking in on dif- high up, then sit to get a stable position. ferent ropes, while trying to keep the plate in a locked position. 2. Can I find multiple anchors, or will I have to rely on a single Belaying close in. Taken bomber? Other tips Two will be more secure. Single anchors are fine as long as from the new Climbing they are bomber! However, people have had serious acci- Try belaying from the rope loop that you Rock booklet dents using anchors they thought were bombproof... but you are tied into rather than the main harness get more stability with two. belay loop so all the weight is transferred through you and onto anchors, this avoids the rope loop and belay loop pulling in opposite ways when weight is applied. The sound of Velcro Can I get the anchors independently loaded and in tension? 3. ripping always gets me going! Basic principles, any slack in the system will normally pull you about dramatically and can lead to shock loading of the Consider belaying from the bottom part of the rope loop when anchors. Check that if one anchor fails it won’t shock load bringing people up and the top part if bottom roping, sometimes the other. this makes it a little easier to avoid a twist in the belay plate and improves rope handling. 4. Should I be sitting or standing? A sitting stance is more stable, but most climbers seem to Finally make sure that: stand to have better visual contact. If you are sitting watch a. You are using the right belay for your situation and level of the rope over your leg. experience. b. That you follow basic principles of anchor selection and 5. Can I get into line with the anticipated direction of pull? construction. Being out of line (unless the rope is re-directed through run- c. You pay attention. ners) will definitely pull you around, ask any of our students d. Think about and check all the above before you shout “Climb who have used our weight drop machine. when ready”.

6. Do I have free movement of my control hand on the belay Olly Sanders works for Plas y Brenin, the device? National Mountain Centre. PyB runs a full If you are restricted on the stance you have a couple of programme of courses to suit all levels of options. Firstly you can extend yourself from anchors away ability and experience, from courses specially from the obstruction, if possible. Or you can go under the designed to help indoor climbers progess smoothly to climbing confidently outside right rope and belay on the opposite side. through to advanced courses like big wall climbing. PyB is run by MTT, a trust set up by the BMC, MLTB and UKMTB.

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FORUMFORUM FORUM Snowdonia Transport Radical new proposals Access & Conservation Officer Dave Turnbull Reports: Radical proposals for an ambitious new Park & Ride scheme in northern Snowdonia have recently been published by a partnership of organisations in Snowdon. The scheme which would cover Llanberis Pass, Ogwen Valley, Nant Gwynant and other core areas of the National Park aims to encourge economic regeneration as well as improving the environmental quality of the region. The P&R scheme would operate between 1 April and 31 October and would involve: • A network of 17 buses running at 15 minute intervals in the busiest areas. • P&R car parks in Llanberis, Bethesda, Betws-y-Coed and neighbouring settlements. • A Rural Clearway Order to stop roadside parking. • Increased parking charges in long stay car parks (Pen y Pass, Snowdon Ranger etc). To succeed, the scheme will need the full support of local communities and user groups as well as long term commitment from sponsoring organisations. This article presents the latest background and press release from the scheme steering group and puts forward a range of perspectives (these appear opposite and over- leaf) and asks how P & R would work for you in Snowdonia.

Pen y Grwryd on a busy summers day (Photo: Snowdonia National Park Authority) To local and visiting climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, mately, the potential benefits and drawbacks of the scheme are Snowdonia is a special place, valued for its rugged mountain many and varied. Travelling by bus would remove the hassle of terrain and its classic scrambles, climbs and walks which can be finding a parking space and would be excellent when planning enjoyed throughout the year. For most of us, the private car is linear walks in that a lift back to your car would be assured at the our main form of transport when visiting and exploring the re- end of the day. On the other hand, bus travel is inevitably slower gion. The Transport Study prompts us to ask some fundamen- and less flexible than the car and questions still remain as to how it tal questions of ourselves and to reassess how we might travel would cope with peak demands, whether it would operate late around the busiest parts of Snowdonia in the future. It asks that into the evening and how attractive it would be for elderly people. we acknowledge our responsibility to protect the landscape and Whilst the BMC broadly supports sustainable transport ini- ecology of Snowdonia by leaving our cars in Llanberis, Bethesda tiatives in our National Parks and appreciates that there are some or Betws y Coed and accessing the hills by a regular, low cost areas where increasing volumes of traffic cannot realistically be bus service which would operate until late at night. It also asks sustained, we believe that new initiatives should only be intro- us to accept that present trends of increased roadside parking duced when they are needed, and for the right reasons. A princi- and congestion are unsustainable and that higher parking charges pal aim of the BMC is to preserve the freedoms of climbers, hill are necessary in order to reduce the volume of cars coming into walkers and mountaineers, and on the issue of transport this the most popular areas. means ensuring transport initiatives do not compromise the ex- So, how would a P&R system work for you and would the isting freedom and convenience of access to the hills. Economic benefits of travelling by bus outweigh the inconveniences? How regeneration of Northern Snowdonia is a worthy objective, but is would it influence your choice of a summer weekend venue (be- the introduction of such a radical new transport system the most tween say the Lakes, Peak or South Wales) for example? Ulti- effective way to achieve this? Transport and other topical issues will be discussed at the 4th National Open Forum. See Arena. 22 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13

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Background

by Northern Snowdonia Study Group At least 6.6 million visitor days are spent in Snowdonia each Improved traffic management is a way of achieving four year and of these, 92% of people rely on private cars. Whilst main aims: congestion only occurs at certain places and times, this is only • Protecting the natural environment. one aspect of the “problem” which includes risk of road accidents, increased exhaust emissions and reduced air quality, traf- • Improving the ability of the area to cope with the exist- fic noise and the visual impact and physical damage of car parking numbers of visitors. ing along road verges. • Improving the quality of the experience for visitors. In terms of economic returns, tourism in Snowdonia under per- • Enhancing the economic benefits of tourism. forms in comparison with other popular areas. The average day visitor spends £6.80/day in the area and 13 % of all the visitors The proposed scheme will need the support of Local Authori- spend nothing. The local economy benefits least from car visitors ties, public bodies and particularly the local communities and who park on road verges, spend the day walking or climbing, eat a user groups. The credibility and practicality of the recommen- picnic (brought with them) and return straight home. dations will all need careful judgement before they are imple- mented. Whilst the proposals are innovative and consistent Precis of Press release issued by the with existing Government policies, they will take all of the part- steering group ner organisations into new and largely uncharted territory. A scheme of this kind cannot be taken lightly nor pursued single handedly by any individual organisation. NORTHERN SNOWDONIA STUDY Group recommends improved traffic management scheme The local users perspective. The Steering Group is recommending a new scheme which Iain Peter, Plas y Brenin aims to improve the management of visitor traffic in Northern Snowdonia, to improve the quality of the environment and to At first glance the plans to limit the numbers of cars visiting contribute to the local economy. The scheme comprises an en- Snowdonia look great. After all, wouldn’t it be great if we had no hanced Sherpa Bus Service, Park and Ride car parks in key set- problems with parking, noise, visual pollution or other environ- tlements and an enhanced cycle network. mental problems associated with the convenience of using our The recent Consultants’ Report shows that traffic congestion own car when we go climbing or mountaineering. is likely to get worse in future. Parking on roadsides is also identified as a serious problem. It also highlights the fact that The main thrust of the initiative is to have a series of “perim- while Northern Snowdonia is an exceedingly popular destina- eter car parks” and an efficient Park & Ride service. The cost of tion, local people do not benefit to the extent that they should. using the perimeter parking would include use of the bus service By encouraging tourists to spend time in local villages during for the driver and passengers. Car users would be “encouraged” their visit, it is expected that they will spend more on local goods to use the service in two main ways: parking would be prohib- and services. The Report estimates that if each visitor spent an ited except in a few small and very expensive car parks and it will additional 70p in the area - this alone could generate enough be easier for the day visitor to use the bus service rather than income to support up to sixty new full-time jobs; and that the negotiate the “tricky mountain roads”. improved bus service could create a further twenty five. Depending on the frequency of the bus service eventually Now, since I live in Penmachno and work at Plas y Brenin you adopted, approximately £1.8 million would be needed to intro- might think that my views are biased. It is easy to be negative duce the scheme, with its operating costs accounting for an addi- about such initiatives and equally easy for those in favour to tional £1.1 million annually. The Consultants suggest that most dismiss as mere detail important and legitimate concerns. My of the set-up costs could be raised from external sources, and concerns are as follows: estimate that the running costs could be balanced by income What happens if you drive to North Wales to climb in generated from parking charges within five years - making the ? initiative self-financing. Llanberis Pass, pay for your parking (at say Betws y Coed), Members of the Study Group will now report the Consult- jump on the bus and on arrival in the Pass find that Dinas ants’ findings and recommendations to their organisations. It Mot is wet. It would be nice to go to Tremadog instead – has already been agreed that the report will be discussed in detail pity you’ve paid all that money! with local communities, and that full consultation will take place before any steps are taken to implement any of the suggested ? Fancy a quick bit of evening bouldering – if you live in the measures. Park you’d have to drive to the edge of the Park so that you could park your car and take the bus to the bouldering site. Who knows what happens if you fancy a lemonade after- wards and “stop out” after the last bus?

? If would be great to use more public transport when visiting Snowdonia. Will the Park & Ride scheme include Llandudno and Bangor main line stations?

? The “expectation” is that buses will run every 15 minutes i.e. Copies of the Executive Summary of the Northern Snowdonia Study are available from the National Park Office, Penrhyndeudraeth. Gwynedd LL48 6LJ the maximum waiting time will be 15 minutes – it is hard to believe that when you get off the hill late on a wet night in November you will only have to wait 15 minutes. Transport and other topical issues will be discussed at the 4th National Open Forum. See Arena.

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? What will happen to those visiting club huts or B&B’s in the Park?

As I said at the beginning it is all too easy to be negative about new initiatives; the Park & Ride is clearly great for casual visitors who simply want to take in a few key tourist sites, buy an ice cream, then head home in the late afternoon. If walkers and climbers are to support the idea we need to have more details about how it will really work. Expensive and restrictive car parking linked to an unreliable and in- frequent bus service is the last thing any of us want.

A view from South Wales. Gwyn Evans, Swansea “If you hadn’t wanted to do that last route we wouldn’t be in this mess”. It’s a late summer evening Ogwen Valley. Roadside parking will go, in the new scheme. at the Cromlech Boulders and the last Park ‘n’ Ride (Photo: Snowdonia National Park Authority) bus left 10 minutes ago. The prospect of walking back to Llanberis does not appeal! same time expect our ‘playgrounds’ to remain undeveloped, we should be willing to make a disproportionate contribu- It had felt odd taking a bus up the Pass, seeing the little green tion to a system that contributes to the local community picnic areas and small parking areas where there used to be long whilst satisfying our aesthetic and environmental mores. This laybys full of cars from morning till dusk. Of course all that had cross subsidy would improve locals’ use of the bus service been in the days before Local Agenda 21 and Integrated Trans- and would provide tangible evidence of the benefits of living port and Sustainability when petrol was only 65p a litre instead in Snowdonia and welcoming visitors there. of £1.30 and you didn’t need a licence to drive into town. But then the car was essential, so useful in taking the children to • There ought to be a rational (reduced) costing of national school on the way to work (wasn’t it surprising how much easier public transport in conjunction with such local schemes to it was to drive to work during the school holidays?), so useful encourage people to abandon the car culture. you could decide at the drop of a hat that today was the day to pop over to North Wales to grab “that route”. But what about the detail of the proposed scheme? Surely it should run ‘out of season’ (at an agreed reduced level) and should The Northern Snowdonia Study is a move to apply urban be frequent, reliable, easy to understand and have good intercon- techniques to a National Park much as is happening in the Peak nections with existing transport systems. It should operate from District, the Lakes and elsewhere. The BMC clearly recognises early morning to late at night, not only to cater for late evening that cars can create problems in the countryside and has pro- descents but also when returning from pubs to campsites, club moted the “lift-share” website and the Stanage bus to help allevi- huts, neighbouring villages and local residences. The ‘bus-stops’ ate some of these pressures. In Snowdonia however, the pro- should be comfortable, weather-tight and show ‘real-time’ infor- posals would be particularly far-reaching and the introduction of mation. Video surveillance of the bus stops would also mean that Park & Ride, closure of road side parking (or its conversion into buses could be despatched when necessary during quiet periods. short stay parking for “viewers”) and introduction of parking A voice link and/or telephone plus a ‘Time of Arrival’ indicator attendants are issues which should be careful considered by climb- would also help to keep passengers informed. The scope for ers. Whilst it is easy to understand the need for traffic manage- providing ‘bike pools’ at bus stops should also be investigated. ment on Bank Holidays and summer weekends, it is much less This would give users a valuable option and bikes could be redis- easy to appreciate their advantages for a quiet evening’s bouldering tributed by buses as they travel up and down their routes. in the Pass when there would be no convenient parking spaces or Overall, I feel that a well planned scheme could work if it is bus services. financially secure, fully takes on board the needs of local people and visitors and makes best use of modern technology. Bus ‘Stand & Deliver’ - The weekend tracking systems, real time info, voice and video links would be visitors' perspective. important for an effective scheme and existing systems in use Crag Jones, Crouch Hill, London elsewhere should be thoroughly researched before decisions are In my opinion there should be four main guiding principles to made. This would help to avoid any costly and frustrating mis- the ‘big idea’ presented by this study: takes arising from theoretical systems which do not work and • Travel and parking costs should not prohibit the less wealthy could well result in more stand than deliver! from visiting Snowdonia. Public transport should be cheaper This perspective is based on a knowledge gained of local issues than car travel (say half the ‘per person’ cost of two people from having family and many friends (both climbers and non- lift sharing). climbers) in Snowdonia and having spent countless hours hitch- • Local residents using the system should be subsidised by ing to Snowdonia from rural mid-Wales at a time when public income from recreational users. Locals should not be re- transport was distinctly unhelpful. I also spent 4 years studying stricted in using their cars since we, the visitors, are rarely in Bangor and found once again that it was nigh on impossible to prohibited from using our cars in our home areas. reach the mountains using public transport. Recently, I bought • Since the majority of visiting mountaineers live in relatively my first car for 10 years having got sick of the criminally high wealthy areas with good services and salaries, but at the cost of rail travel (compared to the car) between London and the major climbing areas!

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Blue Monday A postcard from Alex Messenger: Summit's International Correspondent Photos: Sara Spillett The Blue Mountains, just West of Sydney offer a classic Australian climbing experience. Scorching sun, sandstone towers hidden in a eucalyptus haze, Koalas dripping from every tree and cold beers readily to hand throughout the day. Well that’s what the guidebook claims After the fourth day of heavy rain spirits at the camp- site reached an all time low. The novelty of watching over- hanging crags transform into waterfalls, and walking-in semi naked to avoid getting yet more clothes soaked, had definitely worn off. Even the sight of the Scandinavians hitting a gum tree as the tyres on their ideal travelling van gave up the ghost on the approach track failed to produce smiles. Returning to the tent was just not an option, in the ab- sence of sun our bright yellow tent seemed to attract everything with six legs from miles around, and a few things with eight legs that fancied a snack. Despite its high speci- fication and low price it no longer seemed a bargain and the $20 K-mart specials in an immensely more practical dark green were being eyed enviously. They leaked of course, but would you rather be wet or sharing your bag with a hairy killing machine? The local towns had long been exhausted, 'the beers are hard to keep cold hmmm another coffee and the gear shop again anyone? , and scenic spots had been tried, but failed due to the and there’s no sign of Koalas (yet)' dense mist. first seemed like a brilliant plan, and seduced by tales of It had all seemed ideal when planned on the beach in Thai- classic Gritstone like routes in a beautiful setting we were land a month before. Going to Oz in the Summer? you’re there like a shot. Hmmm. Proof (if needed) that you should mad the international climbing grapevine hissed. Your blood never take advice from professional nomads whose brains will boil in the 49 C Arapiles heat murmured tanned wise have been long fried on a cocktail of chemicals and climbing looking people. With opinion that strong going to the Blueys in 100% humidity. As the wind got up rain started curling into our makeshift tarpaulin shel- ter, and fully caffeined up it was decision time: just one more crag-hit before scuttling back to Sydney for the hedonistic delights of dry things and food. We’d planned our meals perfectly but Mr Possum (aided most likely by Mr Wallably) had headed off into the bush with 5Kgs of our pasta, drastically changing the menu. Various crags were pushed around, but the main criteria was that they overhung considerably: fortunately the excellent sandstone was often depressingly steep and finding somewhere dry for a few hours was no 'don’t overlook the Blueys on a trip to Oz' problem. And so Team Pom

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8165_Summit_13.p65 26 17/02/99, 13:47 FIRST TIME FIRST

headed off bravely into the (wet) bush, clad only in underpants and waterproofs, the leader optimistically waving a ski pole in front to ward off the perils of snakes. One local character contains enough venom to kill 250,000 guinea pigs in one bite, easily enough to ruin our day. Round- ing the corner we might have seen a good view on a less misty day, but instead just ran into a few locals clustered under a cross between Helsby and Malham. De- spite (or because) of the fact that we were practically naked and waving large poles around some good abuse developed, especially when one of our intrepid leaders got halfway up a classic 25 (7b ish) only to find the glue in staples disappear and carrot bolts pop up instead. Climb- ing 7b is hard enough as it is, without having to fiddle wires over the tops of 10mill bolts then desperately avoid kicking them off with your scrabbling feet. Suddenly he shrieked and leapt off, a fair whipper onto a rusty old carrot top. Most unusual, this guy would do anything to avoid falling, in fact anything to avoid climbing usually, and despite the fact that his body has had to be reassembled

'one of our intrepid leaders got halfway up a classic 25 (7b ish) only to find the glue in staples disappear and carrot bolts pop up instead'

mad. Ignoring the usual procedure of straight to hospital, he insisted on finishing the route first, a definite improve- ment in confidence, perhaps he should get bitten more often. A few hours later though, things were looking much better, the spider hadn’t invenomated (technical term that), the mist had cleared and our tent had dried. Suddenly the Blue Mountains did look awesome and Sydney seemed a poor option. I mean what’s an Opera house compared to 2000 fantastic routes on rock pretty much like grit, either bolted or on numerous occasions following bike smashes, normally natural depending on your desires? If you’re still open to refuses to even take a swing on top rope. Now he’d just leapt advice from the grapevine then don’t overlook the Blueys on backwards and was wildly swinging whilst screaming to be let a trip to Oz, although the beers are hard to keep cold and down, NOW! Very interested to see what had reformed his there’s no sign of Koalas (yet). head we watched him descend, still squirming. Upon hitting the ground he ripped off his harness , whipped down his shorts After enjoying mixed weather in the Blue and stood there stark naked examining himself, confusing the Ozzies (and us) even further with this display of Pom Mountains Alex, the BMC's balding ex reserve. Information Co-ordinator, is probably now He claimed a Red-Back spider had decided to take a nib- broken down in the outback somewhere on ble of his belly halfway through the crux moves, before explor- the way to Arapiles. ing further down, but perhaps the rain had just driven him

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13 27

8165_Summit_13.p65 27 17/02/99, 13:47 The BMC Access Forum “Commercialisation, the environment and the outdoor trade” With whom rests the responsibility for protecting the mountains from the impact of increasing numbers of mountaineers? The Access Forum is an annual opportunity for the whole Com- the damage that the product may cause to the environment, or to mittee, and any BMC member, to meet to review progress and its user! So how should the trade contribute? discuss future direction. This time the group was joined by 3 guest The Trade speakers – Chris Lines, PR Manager at Berghaus; Jerry Gore, Chris Lines and Jerry Gore presented the manufacturers’ and Cotswold’s Marketing Director; and Ken Wilson, to play devil’s retailers’ views respectively, and Ken Wilson opened the debate advocate - for an open debate on the potential for the BMC to with a reminder that BMC supporters should never be afraid to work more closely with the outdoor equipment trade to increase speak their mind…. environmental awareness and best practice amongst users of the Both Chris Lines and Jerry Gore agreed that the trade should – hills. and their companies do – take seriously their potential impact on Numbers the environment. Berghaus’s view was that people should be Numbers participating in mountaineering activities have risen equipped with the right gear when venturing into the mountains dramatically in recent years. As an illustration a survey com- and should be seen behaving in a responsible manner whilst wear- pleted in 1993 indicated that participation in climbing increased ing it. But what does “behaving in a responsible manner” mean? by 40% over a 4 year period, making it Britain’s fastest growing To whom should this message be addressed, and how can it most popular sport. This has not been without an environmental cost. effectively be delivered? In 1996 the eminent conservationist Bill Adams observed that Wrecking the place “increasingly, it is the economics of the consumption of the new The Forum was clear on its vision for the countryside – a “tran- leisure goods that are forcing the direction and pace of change in quil, wild and appealing environment” in which to enjoy climbing the countryside”. The question put to the Access Forum was and walking. The message, too, was succinctly summarised by what the outdoor equipment trade should – or could – do in re- Ken Wilson, who reminded us of the Mountaineers’ 11th Com- sponse to the fact that promotion of their goods brings more mandment “Thou shalt not wreck the place”. This is a good rule people into the sport, with implications for the environment. The of thumb, but “not wrecking the place” needs some thought. Con- BMC adopts the policy of not actively promoting the sport, but servation at a crag means different things to different people. To a takes a prominent role in encouraging best environmental practice climber it may mean conserving the crag in a condition which is and assisting with erosion control and other projects, supported stimulating to climb; a walker may value its landscape quality, through the Access Fund. It may be impractical for the outdoor whilst a naturalist may seek to preserve a fragile habitat for mosses equipment trade to adopt such an approach - a marketing strategy and lichens. For whom should we “not wreck the place”? which focuses on the fun, prestige etc that results from purchasing a product is likely to be more successful than one which dwells on What message Mountaineering must be one of the most multi-faceted sports, incorporating a wide spectrum of activities, each of which has its own implications for environmental conservation. For example, hillwalkers may contribute to path erosion; climbers to cliff top erosion; and under marginal conditions skiers may damage turf and ice climbers damage delicate alpine flora. Under these conditions a small number of people can inadvertently have a very detrimental effect. Should the trade tailor the message “to behave responsibly” to fit the equipment? Jerry Gore was firm in his belief that the message must be kept simple. But how simple can this be if equipment users are unaware of their potential to damage the fragile mountain environment? Preaching It is all too easy to preach to the converted. Access and conservation has been voted the BMC’s most important area of work, and environmental information is regularly circulated to all members and affiliated clubs. Despite the admirable efforts of the BMC’s Membership Services Team, however, not all mountaineers are members of the BMC. Neither would they necessarily read the specialist magazines in which much of the information appears. These are the people who we now need to reach but how? The structure of the outdoor equipment trade is changing. Ad- vertisements for mountaineering gear have been springing up outside the specialist press – in national newspapers, posters in the London underground, fliers in household magazines. At the same time (be it cause or effect) outdoor gear is increasingly worn as a fashion accessory. It is commonplace now in cities to see com- muters more appropriately clad for the arctic than for the office - girls in down jacket and mini-skirt; the businessman’s black furled umbrella replaced by the latest in Gor-Tex jackets. Meanwhile, the wife takes the kids to school in a 4x4 off-road vehicle. The vagaries of the fashion market need not concern us, but this trend has two important implications. Firstly, advertising is creating interest in mountaineering activities amongst a wider audience.

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8165_Summit_13.p65 28 17/02/99, 13:49 And secondly, the outlets for clothing hitherto regarded as moun- Where do we go from here? taineering equipment have extended to high street stores. Getting If one clear message emerged from this debate it was that the the environmental message around is therefore going to be a much issue is considerably more complex than had been anticipated. more difficult task. And the scale of the problem is vast. No easy gratification or How quick fix for the Access and Conservation Committee on this one! This brings us on to the third problem – how can the environ- There is a constant need for environmental education and guid- mental message be most effectively delivered? Swing tags, infor- ance, and the BMC must be realistic in what it aims to achieve mation points in shops, logos on posters, magazine articles and with limited funds and staff time. fliers all offer possibilities. The power of the spoken word should A partnership approach with trade bodies offers tremendous not be overlooked, and Jerry Gore emphasised that informal, yet potential, and the Access Fund remains the best medium through informative, discussions between Cotswold shop staff and cus- which to work on some of the complex issues raised. A mixed tomers could contribute significantly, but realistically this will strategy approach with a number of trade partners could achieve only happen in the specialist outlets. widespread results. Many of the BMC’s trade contacts agree that The problem of upland erosion is not new, but the frequency at they have a responsibility and wish to act on it. The Access and which people venture into the mountains now often exceeds the Conservation Committee would welcome a call from all trade mem- ability of nature to repair the impact. The public’s approach to bers who would like to contribute by taking this important work using the environment for sport may also bear consideration. forward in partnership with the BMC. Mountaineers with many year's experience behind them could reasonably be expected to develop a deep understanding of their The Access Fund is a vital tool in the BMC’s access and interaction with the forces of nature and intuitively to appreciate conservation work. Its objectives are to: their impact on the environment. However, within today’s con- • Fund practical projects to improve access and protect the cliff and mountain environment sumer society there is increasingly an element seeking easy gratifi- • Provide quality information on access arrangements cation - the ‘cheap thrill’ approach to leisure. Such an approach and best environmental practice does not allow development of a sense of respect for the environ- • Campaign for sustainable access and conservation of ment borne out of experience. We must guard against this ap- the cliff and mountain environment proach creeping into the philosophy of new climbers entering the sport. In 1998 the Access Fund was supported by: Mixed strategies Enough of moralising. What should the BMC’s Access and Conservation Committee be doing to tackle these problems? Con- guidebooks servation bodies have found that mixed strategies are often more effective than a single approach. Some lobbying, some publica- The BMC is restructuring the Access Fund to offer a greater range tions and some active participation in promoting local projects are of benefits to partners. For further details contact the BMC’s all important ingredients. Marketing Co-ordinator Andy Gowland on 0161 445 4747. BMC insurance Unbeatable value, BMC for cover you can trust… The new BMC Travel & Activity Insurance Guide ● Sun Trek – low cost options for hill walking and trekking ● Sun Rock – popular climbing cover ● Sun Ski & Climb – comprehensive cover for mountaineering and winter sports ● Sun Peak – competitive premiums for ascents in the Greater Ranges

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8165_Summit_13.p65 29 17/02/99, 13:50 Where are we going? Silva’s Tony Wale considers future developments in Navigation

It is very difficult to imagine the end of the paper map in the be able to benefit when the equipment is being responsibly used. foreseeable future. Despite the obvious advantages of the com- Using hand held instruments by remote control through radio puter, business people still prefer to use their non-electronic and voice recognition, are developments that will start finding organiser. Like the map, it is more reliable, easier to ‘navigate’ their way into the world of navigation. You may well find your- around it and a lot less expensive. self carrying your multi function instrument and ‘long life’ bat- The magnetic compass also has three advantages over any hand tery in your rucksack or pocket and reading the display on your held electronic aid to navigation. It is certainly more reliable, it is wrist watch. By calling up information by talking to your watch, more accurate and less expensive. you will have your hands free for fighting off the crocodiles! Back to GPS, sorry, but it is the most important advance made The future in the development of any aid to navigation for a very long time. It can give a Hand held electronic instruments for the tremendous amount of useful information navigator on foot have already arrived, but and is ideal in featureless terrain but GPS it is still early days. Component reliability does have its limitations in the mountains. was a problem for most products, but the Hand held GPS instruments used by ci- main problem has been and still is power vilians, are accurate to within 100 metres consumption. However, instruments that 95% of the time. However, the benefit of up to recently lasted say up to twenty hours this level of accuracy is reduced when using now last up to sixty hours or even several larger scale maps i.e. 1: 25,000 In a com- years. In recent years battery technology plex mountain environment far greater ac- has not advanced much at all and it is the curacy can be achieved, within say 50 me- ever-decreasing power consumption, tres, by applying dead reckoning with a through the use of smaller and smaller com- protractor compass, or better still with ponents, that is having a dramatic effect. an eye level [sighting] compass. This is Multi function instruments are now being assuming that distance can be estimated developed. People on foot do not want to or a position found by using back bear- have to carry several items in their hands ings [Resection]. and they want their equipment to be as light GPS is another AID to navigation and it as possible. Multi function instruments should not be ignored. To use it effec- overcome these problems by using the same 'I'It is very difficult to imagine tively takes a lot of practice in all situa- battery for a range of functions. The Silva 'I tions and several things can wrong and AIBa WindWatch consists of an altimeter/ the end of the paper map in you will always need the map and com- barometer, thermometer, wind indicator and the foreseeable future' pass to make use of the information supplied by the GPS. watch. An advantage of combining such (Photo: Andy Perkins) products, is that even more functions be- There is another problem with GPS, it come available i.e. wind chill and averages over periods of time. It is can not ‘see’ around corners. Radio can and so it is possible that all very well being able to call up many functions, but the software in the future one of the several low level constellations of satel- must be user friendly. Windows type operating systems in hand lites that are currently in service, may offer a world navigation held instruments are making life a lot easier. system, that works in thick forest, even in side caves, tunnels and certainly in deep ravines and in between high mountains.

So what is around the corner? Well Your choice of aids to navigation should be based upon the you can let your imagination run type of terrain you are likely to be travelling through and your wild! recent experience. However, in order to minimise the risks, take every aid you can and never stop practising their use. GPS – By being able to send information from your GPS rather than just receiving it from the satellites, your position will The author is President of the Army Orienteering be seen by rescue services, but might this lead to more needless Club, past captain of the British Orienteering Team call outs? Think of the possibilities though. Search parties, and a Fellow of the Royal Institute of Navigation. expeditions, research in the field, training etc. All involved will

30 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13

8165_Summit_13.p65 30 17/02/99, 13:51 1999 World Championships Focus:British Senior Team Adrian Berry Profiled by Anne Arran AA: Adrian is the new BMC Competition Climbers representative and here is what he has to say.

Statistics Hardest trad route E8/E9 millstone, the unrepeated Elm Str. Hardest Sport OS 7C 15 of them. Has onsited soft touch 8a. Red Point 8b Jaidum in Thailand

AA: Adrian, you are well known for having a sometimes monastic and frugal lifestyle with a tendency to go to bed as early as 8.30pm. Give me an example of your last week. AB: There is no typical week. I had a week off after coming back from Thailand (2 weeks before the last BICC)

AA: Day by day? Saturday AB: Bouldering at the Foundry for 3 hours. Steep powerful problems up to 10 moves, trying to on sight new problems.

Sunday AB: Bouldering in your cellar, trying to onsight John Ar- ran’s problems. Four to six move problems often including steep body tension work. Aim to get power back after Thailand visit.Went mountain biking 10 miles off road. Adrian plus dubious shades in Thailand Monday (Photo: Berry Collection) AB: Wrote a Thailand article. AA: How long were you out there for and what was good about it? AB: I've already started. AB: I was out there for 7 weeks, almost exclusively onsight AA: What would be different immediately before a World Cham- climbing. The best thing was snorkelling. There are lots of pionship? different fish. Snorkelling in warm water is genuinely differ- AB: I would take more days off beforehand, but I wouldn’t ent from your average climbing holiday . take the whole week before off.

Tuesday AA: What are you hoping to improve? AB: I did some computer stuff. AB: Everything. But no cunning plans. AA: Did you do that at college then? AB: My 1st Degree was in Law, then subsequently IT Law. It AA: Who inspires you as a climber? means I could do a course in a year to become a solicitor. It AB: No one that anyone knows. John Bullock 50 yrs old, a S. costs a lot of money if you want to do it. I am long distance Wales activist and still getting better. Hero worshipping is tutoring on a law course called intellectual property which not a good place to start. You have got to believe in your- deals with copy right and patent stuff- more rewarding than self as much as anyone else. living on the dole. AA: We are having 5 senior team training sessions leading up Wednesday to the World Championships. What would you like them to AB: Went to the Foundry with John. Did maybe 6 routes 6c – 7c cover? max. I was wasted so listened to my body and stopped. AB: Someone to come along and say this is what I’ve been doing to train it really works. I want to learn more about Thursday periodisation and hear more from people like Francois AB: Resting. Went out soloing on Burbage North grit. Did High Legrand. magazine stuff. Went to the quiz night down at the pub. Top Tips from Adrian Friday 1 I only train when I feel 100% strong. AB: Rest day. Did some website design and bought food for 2 Stop before getting too tired at the end of the session. BICC competition at the weekend. Made travel arrange- 3 Increase your contact time on holds when doing circuits. ments. This improves isometric strength. Don’t count moves count minutes. Saturday 4 Use body tension to hold a position. AB: Comp – Warwick. Do some easier routes to practice technique and flowing. AA: Is this how you would prepare for the World Championships

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13 31

8165_Summit_13.p65 31 17/02/99, 13:52 JACK & JANE ON WELSH BIRDS An evaluation of the bird nesting restrictions in Range East and Range West, Pembroke by Jack Donovan, The Wildlife Trust (West Wales) & Jane Hodges, Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.

‘Access’ has always been a hot topic amongst climbers in Pembroke, and one of the most common questions concerns seasonal bird nesting restrictions ‘why are there different restrictions in Range East and Range West?’ At the last Pembroke Cliff Climbing Liaison Meeting, the BMC called for written clarification from conservation specialists about why Range West has a blanket restriction between 1 Feb and 16 Aug when site specific restrictions have worked so well in Range East for many years. This article, by the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park and The Wildlife Trust (West Wales) highlights some of the ecological issues affecting bird conservation in Pembroke and seeks to explain the key differences between the two Ranges for nesting and feeding birds. Comments from climbers are welcome. Dave Turnbull, Access & Conservation Officer.

The Castlemartin cliffs are re- ability of birds to feed, undis- nowned for their seabirds, choughs 'Range West is exceptionally important turbed, in high-quality habitats and peregrines. Places such as throughout the year for flocks of young close to their nest sites and also Elegug Stack and the Green Bridge and non-breeding choughs' on the nest sites themselves. of Wales are thronged with guille- Choughs have a complex social mots, razorbills and kittiwakes structure, with communal roost- during the breeding season, whilst ing and foraging a behavioural fea- choughs seemingly “play” in the ture in summer and autumn. Even updraughts above the cliffs. The in winter they need safe, secure cliffs are nationally important for roost sites, a factor which must their seabird colonies which are the be taken into consideration largest in mainland southern Brit- During summer and spring in ain. The cliffs, coastal slopes and Range West, choughs feed exten- cliff tops are internationally impor- sively on the coastal slopes and tant for choughs, as reflected in their cliff tops above the Wash, Mount Special Protection Area (SPA) des- Sion Down, and Linney Head. ignation under European legisla- These areas are short distances (i.e. tion. Swifts and housemartins also <400 metres) from nest sites and nest on Castlemartin’s cliffs and in fulfil the criteria for prime feeding caves. habitats. Prolonged disturbance The importance and sensitivity of birds attempting to feed in such of the Castlemartin cliffs have long areas could affect foraging success been recognised by climbers, and a and, ultimately, breeding success. system of agreed seasonal restric- Range West (as opposed to Range tions has operated successfully in East) is exceptionally important Range East since the late 1970s. throughout the year for flocks of These restrictions are jointly re- young and non-breeding choughs. viewed at annual liaison meetings, Trevor Messiah new routing in Range West Excessive disturbance over and and in 1992 access to Range West (Photo: Carl Ryan) above that caused by military ac- for climbers was first permitted tivities could have a negative im- outside the bird nesting season. pact on choughs at Castlemartin, which are already subject to high Range East and Range West are different in terms of how birds use levels of visitor pressure during non-firing periods in Range East. It them, and in terms of military activity. In Range East, the seabird may even put prospective new breeding pairs ‘off’ and hence di- colonies are concentrated (e.g. in the Cauldron/Elegug Stack areas), minish the potential for population expansion - surely an important whilst in Range West, they are much more scattered along the cliffs. objective of species conservation. Already in spite of the agreed Choughs and peregrines use both Ranges for feeding, roosting and seasonal restrictions, the situation for choughs in Range East is not nesting. Nest sites and feeding areas for choughs are spread along as good as it was several years ago. the entire Castlemartin coast. Military activity also differs signifi- The seasonal restrictions at Castlemartin are based on the best cantly between the Ranges. Range West, being the main impact area available ecological information and understanding of the conser- during firing, is subject to more intense levels of activity than Range vation requirements of species. In the case of the chough, the East which in turn is subject to much greater visitor pressure. These Range Recording Advisory Group (which advises the MoD on differences, together with better understanding of chough ecology, conservation), takes as its starting point the international impor- have resulted in a different approach to seasonal restrictions in tance of Castlemartin for the chough and our collective responsi- Range West from other Pembrokeshire cliffs, whereby climbing is bility for its protection and conservation. not permitted between 1 Feb and 15 Aug. Ideally from the wildlife The combination of excellent chough nesting opportunities and viewpoint there would be no climbing at all on Range West due to high quality feeding habitat at Castlemartin (which is managed the potential prolonged disturbance of cliff sites by climbers. by traditional grazing practices) are only equalled on Ramsey The rationale behind the seasonal restriction in Range West takes Island in Pembrokeshire. The fact that choughs have thrived on into account the much higher levels of disturbance from military the Castlemartin cliffs is a reflection of their high quality breed- activities in Range West compared to Range East, and consequently ing and feeding habitats and the willingness of climbers to help other forms of disturbance, unless kept to a minimum, have a greater ensure that these marvellous birds prosper. We must, however, potential impact on birds in Range West than in Range East. ensure that choughs not only survive at Castlemartin, but are Chough ecology is complex. Breeding success depends on the allowed to increase in the areas that best meet their needs.

32 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13

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SUMMLIB.PM5 33 15/02/99, 08:42 Arena ARENA AGM Insurance The 1999 AGM, Open Forum and Annual Ray Perry of the BMC Insurance Department detailed the new Dinner + Disco will be held on Saturday all-inclusive Hut Insurance Package now available for BMC- 17th April 1999 at St George's Hotel, The affiliated clubs. He stressed that the package was flexible enough to cater for particular needs to take account of the remoteness Promenade, Llandudno. and other characteristics of mountain huts. He took with him a The AGM will be voting in a new President and two Vice Presi- number of ideas to investigate to meet members’ needs. dents as George Band, Lindsay Griffin and Andy Perkins come to Tax the end of their terms. The 4th National Open Forum, which From the chair Mark elicited from those present the general follows the AGM will be discussing topical issues such as trans- position regarding payment of Council Tax. Few huts had port policy as well as debating the future structure of the BMC. achieved even a reduction, and the main conclusion was that Dr. Kim Howells MP will be the chief guest at the dinner. Kim local authorities varied widely in their application of the exemp- is a government minister at the DTI and keen climber. He is also tion options open to them. MP for Pontypridd and is a keen advocate of Welsh affairs. Dr Booking Howells has been very supportive of the BMC's approach to Dave Brown (Booking Secretary for the Whillans Hut) opened the Access to Open Countryside debate. discussion on some aspects of booking systems. The idea of a BMC-run central booking system was definitely not favoured, See enclosure for booking form and agenda. although the possibility of some central late-booking system Lancs guidebook launch was taken away for more thought. The extension of hut hire to The new Lancashire Guide will be launched with a Wilton crag outside (non-BMC) groups was discussed as were ways in which clean up and a Black Dog beer session on Saturday 22 May. The clubs dealt with deposits and with non-payment of fees. The first available guide books should be hot off the press and will be legal and insurance issues raised by the use of huts by commercial groups were aired. on sale with 10% off. All welcome. Meet at the Wilton Arms from 10.30am. Beer Energy saving later at the Black Dog. Dave Wylie (Karabiner MC) outlined ways in which their hut had made the most of energy-saving devices including insulation, Huts remote switching and off-peak electricity. A well-attended Hut Seminar was held at Plas-y-Brenin on Impact Saturday 31 October, 1998 from 4pm to 8pm, organised by the Fern Levy (Pinnacle Club) injected a thoughtful note by ques- BMC Hut Co-ordination and Advisory Panel under the Chair- tioning existing relationships between hut owners and users with manship of Mark Mansley of Ibex Mountaineering Club. It cov- neighbours, the local economy, the use of local services and the ered some of the more important points which had been high- impact of modernisation on the remote character of the areas in lighted in a previous survey of climbing and mountaineering clubs. which huts are found. Regulations In closing what was a very successful seminar, Mark thanked Craig Harwood (C.C.) used his experience as an architect to everyone for attending, and established that there was a great deal outline the relevance of Fire and other Building Regulations to of support from those present for the holding of such meetings in existing, as well as proposed new huts. Replies to queries made the future and a number of issues, including disabled access, were it clear that these covered a range of simple to very sophisticated systems and that clubs therefore had many options. Craig also highlighted for future discussion. All participants then enjoyed a gave guidance on applying for Lottery grants while ensuing dis- meal prepared by the Plas-y-Brenin staff and sponsored by the cussion reminded us of alternative sources of funding, such as BMC. Copies of the proceedings are available from the BMC for the Foundation for Sport and Arts. interested clubs.

Area meetings 1999

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8165_Summit_13.p65 34 17/02/99, 13:29

SSinglePPitch AAward For Climbers Leading and Supervising Groups

David Phillpot reflects on taking the The weather became a little drier, but it remained cold and we Assessment left for the drive home, still talking about minimising our impact I have been a climber for fifty years, specialising in middle- on the environment, in the light of our ghastly vision of the grade routes in Britain, the Alps and California. When I’m going World War I landscape at Yarncliffe. well I climb E1 5b, and like the ‘i before e’ rule, there are special circumstances in which I do much worse, but only rarely better. Once home John debriefed us. I heard with pleasure that I’d I retired early due to cancer and have developed an interest in been successful. Summarising my experience of the weekend is working with students from a local college for young people difficult. Given my experience I should have expected to be suc- with special educational needs. I registered with the MLTB on cessful, but focusing that experience to working with novices the Single Pitch Award scheme in order to gain a qualification to and groups was more problematic. In terms of specifics I have enable me to do this work. The preparation for my Assessment course took the form of a …..the assessors would look for appropriate actions, home paper and a five-day First Aid course. I was granted ex- methods and solutions rather than specific ones…… emption from training by the MLTB; one of the disadvantages of this was that I had only a general idea as to what would happen during the assessment weekend. I also had to fill in my logbook. As you may imagine, quarrying my climbing experiences for those which I felt would sensibly impress whoever might read it was particularly difficult since dates were needed. Not being a logbook keeper all I could remember were the climbs, my com- panions and sometimes the conditions, especially if the circumstances resulted in an ‘epic’! The Guidance Notes however, were very clearly set out and exhaustive in terms of content and indeed, gave some indication of processes. The most valuable comments for me were those which led me to believe that…..

…..the assessors would look for appropriate actions, methods and solutions rather than specific ones……

This was a sort of Liberty Hall and I decided that I’d do my stuff as I usually did. In spite of all this, I still felt the same sort of apprehension as I had in the mid-sixties when I’d spent two weeks in North Wales, the cradle of my rock-climbing career, with Rowland Edwards being assessed for the Mountaineering Association In- structors Certificate. The tune of the year was ‘All You Need is Love’ and Joe Brown had just opened the Llanberis shop. Saturday dawned wet and windy. We went to Stanage, where we climbed, placed gear, belayed each other, evaluated placements, belays and stances and discussed events suggested by John, our assessor, regarding group management. We drove on to Yarncliffe, to a relatively wind-free, but still wet and very muddy scene - what destruction, what desolation! I thought miserably that this was the evidence for not introducing people to the mountains and crags. I also thought that perhaps an EEC grant to carried away a healthy reinvestment in the clove hitch, the Italian buy lots of concrete and a polydome might be a solution. hitch, the slippery hitch and the French prusik. All were known Here we continued to demonstrate our personal skills in setting to me before, but I had been seduced by belay plates and shunts. up abseils, top-ropes and releasable abseils, where the superior- Most importantly I’ve carried away memories of a good week- ity of Italian hitches and slippery hitches far exceeded my cun- end with an assessor who knew his stuff and who encouraged me ning use of a shunt, especially since in setting up my so safe, so to reveal that I knew mine. To anyone going for the Single Pitch stable belay with a commanding view of the action, I’d placed it Award I’d say: expect to feel a certain level of apprehension but out of reach - hollow laughter, but at least laughter. don’t let it inhibit you, rather make it work for you. Don’t go for Sunday began windy, with showers. We went to Burbage North, it if you are weak in experience or if your can’t focus your where we again showed off, or failed to show off, our personal experience on the essentials of managing a group of beginners. skills and in addition chose routes suitable for novices, arranged Don’t be afraid to argue your case, especially over subjective top-ropes and bottom ropes, used rigging ropes and redeemed issues. The well-reasoned answer is the best one, even if differ- yesterday’s errors. My fellow assessee was feeling low, but a ent from that of everyone else. good mutual support atmosphere enabled him to focus better. John was everywhere, discussing, asking questions and offering Adge Last, the MLTB Training Officer would like to fully en- guidance to hone our skills. His quiet, supportive presence dorse the sentiments of David’s final paragraph. "The key to good throughout the weekend enabled us to demonstrate what we preparation for assessment is to have sufficient experience to be knew we could do and gave us the confidence to vary the param- good at the job - time is better spent enjoying a range of climbing eters so as to show how we would resolve different sorts of experiences than endlessly practising technical wizardry." problems.

40 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13

8165_Summit_13.p65 40 17/02/99, 13:31 VIDEOS BY MAIL ORDER

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OTELIB.PM5 73 15/02/99, 08:41 Words: Andy MacNae ThisThis isis AfricaAfrica “This is Africa” declared Snort, as he leaned back, The 1998 BMC/MCof SA Exchange arms spread wide and repeated himself “This is Af- rica”. Sitting as we were around a preposterously well stocked breakfast table with a swimming pool immediately behind and the surrounding bush kept at bay by well tended garden, a pedantic soul might have argued that this didn’t seem very African at all. But we knew what Snort meant- ‘This is climbing in South Africa’. An early start on a crisp morning, a high speed drive down empty roads surrounded by empty bush, a short walk and round a corner appears a massive crag bristling with overhangs. It’s Snort’s crag, he’s developed it and points the guys at the projects. Turnbull thugs out an E5 and Bransby a hard E6. Palmer makes quick second ascents. Me and Jim walk round another corner and find an untouched crag and bag its best lines. And then breakfast at John Rudd’s farm. Just another day in Africa. the hot red sandstone of Hellfire This was day seven and the exchange was already shaping up into one of the best climbing trips any of us had ever had. The itinerary had taken us from Cape Town’s Table Mountain via St. Elsies peak to the stunning mountain valley of Du Toits Kloof. Here options included big, big routes on the steep valley walls, cragging on the hot red sandstone of Hellfire or, for the connois- seur, Snort’s crag Karbonaatjes Kraal with its loose rock and fine breakfasts. From Du Toits we would head for Montagu, out in the semi desert of the Karoo, probably the Cape’s most developed sport climbing area but also home to some of its finest trad test pieces. The final leg of the trip was to take us into the Cedarberg Wilderness Area and to Tafelburg and Wolfberg, two big hill top crags that can only be described as world class. So there we were, twelve of us, including hangers on, trundling around the country in a trusty hired Combie followed by anything up to fifteen fired-up South Africans Peter Robbins on the now legendary keen to show us just how good their climb- Energy Crisis E1, Wolfberg ing was. (Photo: Dave Turnbull) Ed February was the main man There are a lot of things that have to come it’s only a two hour walk in, fifteen pitches, together to make a trip like this one work, I don’t know the way off but I’m sure we’ll and it’s a credit to the South African hosts figure it out ah! Robbins you’re with me, that this one was so much fun and yet so Bransby you’re with Jeremy” and then effective. Ed February was the main man, Glenda would quietly say “Could I come he’d got the thing off the ground and did too?” and they’d all disappear off and who- most of the worrying. He did however cun- ever was left would emerge shame faced and ningly delegate the day to day organisation convince themselves that some valley Ed February cragging was a fine idea. to the team. Jeremy Samson and Snort (Photo: Dave Turnbull) (Charles Edelstein but Snort is so much new lines more appropriate) took Du Toits Kloof, Mary Jenner got Actually it wasn’t always like that, but it does illustrate one of Montagu, Tinie Versfeld looked after Tafleburg and Leonard Rust the surprises of the trip and that is the scale of some of the South did Wolfeberg. This approach gave each leg a distinctive flavour. African crags. Du Toits Kloof wouldn’t have looked out of place Du Toits Kloof combined a charming randomness with a certain in the Dolomites and Table Mountain offered simply stunning brutality. Montague was civilised and well ordered, Tafleberg exposure. The other surprise was just how easy it was to find precisely organised and carefully conducted and Wolfberg had a new routes (with some local guidance), and once we’d got going sociable spontaneity to it. Each venue did however have two new lines were climbed every day, with Jim Graham and Dave things in common, extreme cold and a philosophy of ‘no rest for Turnbull vying to see who could bag the most. For some this on the wicked’ and after the fun of the South Africans visit to the sight new routing business was old hat, but for others it was a UK the ‘wicked’ meant the British team. The relay approach new and exciting experience used by our hosts meant that fresh climbers would arrive every “Bloody ‘ell that was brilliant, I didn’t think it would go but couple of days, keen and fired-up, whilst the weary would return ‘olds just kept appearing and I kept going up. Can we do another one?” so said Debbie Birch topping out on her first new route, to Cape Town. Sadly for the Brits there was no such respite. an improbable looking E1 (High Inflation, Bad Kloof, Montagu) Each day began at six, usually with Jeremy and Snort shouting at and for a few it was an experience almost forgotten. each other and picking their victims for the day “Who’s for Apollo, “God I’m wasted, one of the best days I’ve had in years, it’s

42 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13

8165_Summit_13.p65 42 17/02/99, 12:47 five years since I had a day like that” con- Leonard grabbed a big new E4 (Life in the fessed Ed after accompanying Turnbull and Freezer). Steve straightened out an E5 and the Versfeld on a battling ascent of a new five pitch Bransby and Birkett show put up an E5 that E5 (Revenge of the Natives, Lost World, everyone had thought would be E7. Everyone Montagu). else did existing megaclassics, often with Nick The trip culminated in the Cedarberg and it hanging on a rope nearby, and scoped out lines was here that the rock, the climbing and the for the next day. Sadly such plans were not to atmosphere epitomised what the trip was all be, and in the morning the rain returned with a about. The drive from Montague to the vengeance and we opted to escape downward Cedarberg had been a disturbing one taking and head for Wolfberg. place as it did in torrential rain and under se- that bar room sage Mr. Birkett vere time pressure (permits had to be collected). Arrival at Wolfberg was accompanied by a The passengers of the Combie demonstrated deluge of freezing rain. A camping plan was depressingly little faith in their stalwart driver, quickly abandoned and a rather spacious hut and made regular efforts to escape whist rented. This had the advantage of two kitchens mouthing impractical threats. Meanwhile the and the vegetarians and meat eaters quickly Combie aquaplaned its way along wet clay separated. An hour later it was interesting to roads bound for Tafleburg and tested automo- observe the state of play. Whilst the veggies tive adhesion to its very limits. had prepared a hearty, if protein free, meal and South Africa’s best were now onto coffee and dessert the meat seduction spot eaters had progressed no further than building Arriving in the continuing rain we were faced a big fire, opening many bottles of wine and with the prospect of a three hour uphill walk to listening to improbable stories from that bar a cave at the crag base. Fortunately a store of room sage Mr. Birkett. I’m sure a sociologist beer had been laid in, and soon a suitably forti- would have come to some interesting conclu- fied team headed off into the bush and the sur- sions. Anyway, eventually some child labour real sandstone world of the Cedarberg. We ar- was employed, a chilli was cooked and a fine rived in the fading light and settled down in a long night was had. An untroubled sleep was massive cave described by Tinie as South Afri- brought to an abrupt end by Jeremy, who at ca’s best seduction spot. Sadly had he brought six sharp went from room to room declaring some innocent young thing up this time, he “It’s freezing outside, it’s been snowing and so would have been on something of a loser as the there’s no need for anyone to get up” Why he rain persisted into the morning, the crag re- needed to wake us up to tell us that we didn’t mained hidden and those trusty souls who had have to wake up, was beyond me but I‘m sure equipped themselves with ultra light pits slowly it made sense to him. The freezing conditions began to freeze. This however did not blunt the didn’t discourage Snort and Tony Dick who team spirit and in the morning some hearty ban- appeared a few minutes later looking for vic- ter was followed by a foray out and up a gully tims. Young Peter was dragged from his pit that Tinie assured us would be sheltered. In- and Turnbull, being rather dim, volunteered for deed it was, and here we saw one of the trip’s duty and off they went bound for the legen- best ascents with Ken onsighting a wet and dary Celestial Journey. The rest of us malin- hard 25 (E5 6a) in the freezing rain, allegedly as gered over brews and slowly, two by two, a warm up. Birkett also weighed in with a new headed out into the fridge. Wolfberg is another short and powerful 25/6 (E6 6b), Ben and Peter hill top crag and this day it looked unbeliev- tried something far too hard, Turnbull did some able with the sky the clearest blue and the red hideous chimney and Jim sat in a spaceship (so sandstone dusted with snow. The day was he claimed). Eventually the cold and rain drove stunningly cold with the air temperature be- us back to the cave and to the store of fine Cape low freezing and a stiff breeze blowing, it felt wine that had been bravely lugged up. As we as if the heat was being sucked from the body. drank, Turnbull amused himself by making the In these conditions everyone struggled and by South Africans sing the new National Anthem the afternoon most had either headed down or and Geoff led a spirited rendition of ‘Leaving were cowering in sheltered sunny spots. But on a jet plane’. Given the poor weather, a few Peter had other ideas and pulled off the day’s of us speculated what would happen if we be- best ascent with a bold lead of what became came trapped and ran out of food and asked known as Peter’s Arete (right arete of The who would survive. The sight of Turnbull Robot E4/5 6a) which also gave us onlookers prowling around, knuckles scraping the ground the pleasure of watching a frozen Snort trying like some huge hungry silverback, gave us our to second the thing. As evening approached answer, whilst Ben and Peter were told that the air warmed slightly and Bransby and Mark they would be first in the pot. made a ten minute solo of Energy Crisis (as the potential is massive featured in The Face) and Myers climbed till To our surprise the next day dawned stun- the sun set. ningly clear and the team scampered out into a tearful farewell the sun. The crag now revealed itself - sitting Back at the base we moved into tents and a Ken Palmer and Glenda Huxter atop the area’s highest hill, up to 200m high major Braai was cranked up. Snort kept us and miles long the potential is massive and the supplied with the finest of wines and the meati- on Silhouette E4, Wolfberg team quickly got stuck in. Turnbull and est of Boerwurst and we went to bed fingers (Photo: Dave Turnbull)

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13 43

8165_Summit_13.p65 43 17/02/99, 12:48 crossed for the ‘morrow. The day was indeed warmer and at times crept above freezing. The team went for the crag classics, Access and the permit and tried to move fast, whilst I discovered a whole host of easy lines that no one had bothered to climb before and actually man- system aged to get up a few of them. That evening was to be our last ‘official’ night outside Cape Town and Nicki cooked up an awe- The access problems that South Africa faces depend upon who some curry. Later a major posse of South Africans, including the owns the land, normally National Park or private landowner. The legendary Andy de Klerk, turned up for the beers. In the morning MCofSA does not have any full time officers and access negotiation everyone rushed up to the crag for a flurry of routing and then is done by volunteers. Up to now Ed February has undertaken most back to Cape Town for a Braai at Snort’s mansion and many a of this work but as he becomes more committed to professional tearful farewell. With that the meet was over. obligations there is great concern as to who will take on this role. Well officially anyway, almost everyone stayed on (in Glenda’s The Parks: Some of South Africa’s most important climbing is case for two months) and masses more climbing was done. South situated on National Park or similarly protected land. Access varies Africa is a country with such huge potential that on this trip we greatly depending upon the views of the Park Managers. In the case only scratched the surface, but I reckon most of us will be back of the Table Mountain Park a formal consultative process includes (Birkett will be there as you read this). So everyone had a great climbers and walkers and a mutually beneficial situation exists, which time but did the exchange achieve the objectives? A big ‘yes’ on balances recreation with conservation. At the other extreme, the that, adventure climbing is firmly back on the agenda of the Cederburg Wilderness Area administration does not seem to re- younger activists and many of the old boys found their interest spond to approaches from recreational groups and a Permit system rekindled. On the Access front the BMC has offered the MCofSA limits visitors (of any type) to 40 people per sector. Sectors are all possible support and advice as they address the complex huge, about 100 square miles and all conservationists seem to agree issues that face them (see box). I don’t think Southern Africa has that the number of allowed visitors is ridiculously low. Permits seen the last of the Brits. must be booked in advance and collected during office hours. This system was agreed with no consultation with representative bodies and does not distinguish between climbers, walkers or camping groups as all have to share the permits available. Private Land: Some farmers are not particularly sympathetic to climbers (and they carry big guns) any many crags are not accessible. Where access exists it has usually been personally negotiated by those who developed the crag. At any crag the access situation is liable to change if numbers increase or if farm ownership changes. Some farmers, financially strapped, have begun to introduce charg- ing. The MCofSA is yet to develop a clear position on this issue and whilst some climbers will boycott a crag many will pay. Most, but by no means all, of South Africa’s climbers are pretty well off and a danger exist that a system of payment for access will develop which is bearable to the (relatively) wealthy but is a serious barrier to the less well off. For some time now the MCofSA has had an aggressive land buy- ing policy and in some parts of the country are amongst the biggest landowners. For information* on access contact or visit the Moun- tain Club, open Tuesday evenings. Steve Myers on Punks in the Cedarberg 8a+ *The BMC Information Service also has a dedicated South (Photo: Nick Hancock) African sheet. Sport and Trad

For a country with so many great natural lines, it was something idea was that the Brits would show what could be climbed with a of a surprise to discover the predominance of sport climbing, trad onsight approach and demonstrate that sport and trad could particularly coming as we did from a country in the midst of an prosper and develop side by side, as they are doing in the UK. The adventure climbing resurgence. Thinking about it though, it’s not meet was not about preaching and many of the team had been hard to figure out, and the scene mirrors that in the UK about ten involved in developing sport climbing in the UK, but it was about years ago when sport was very much ‘it’ and climbers were still helping the South Africans to find a balance and inspiring the searching for a balance between the two branches of climbing. In younger climber to try this strange leading on gear business. SA the ‘sport is it’ ethos has been partly driven by visits of high Ascents made in Montagu show that the team was successful in profile US and European sport climbers who have inspired the this. Bransby, Myers and Birkett onsighted Technicolour Dark- local lads and lassies to concentrate on developing sport areas in ness, an E6 6b crackline and declared it to be a four star classic. It the belief that this will bring them more foreign visitors. This focus had been suggested that this route and others at the crag be bolted on sport climbing, whilst not a problem in itself (there’s plenty of to make them accessible and popular. After the spotlight put on rock), has led to a generation of SA climbers with little or no the route by the team, this is now highly unlikely. A couple of experience of climbing on gear, and a concern amongst the likes of days earlier Myers onsighted ‘Days of Thunder’ one of the area’s Ed February that adventure climbing was in danger of dying out in best known sport routes and a tricky 7b+. The thing was that, SA. In addition a few more radical souls, sport climbing evange- having taken one look at it, he had decided to climb it on gear. As he lists, have adopted a ‘climbing shouldn’t be dangerous’ philoso- said “I got 15 good wires so why bother clipping the twelve bolts” phy and retro bolted bold or difficult lines, and have stated that for This ascent shook a few people up and forced them to reassess traditional areas to be popularised they should be bolted. what could be climbed on gear, and what was appropriate as a It was against this background that the meet was conceived. The sport route.

44 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 13

8165_Summit_13.p65 44 17/02/99, 12:50 The Brits Debbie Birch: Mancunian hardcase, singer and party person. Dangerous hair. Dave Birkett: Professional Langdaleite. Enjoys maths. Daily catchphrase “unbelievable, best day ever” Ben Bransby: Professional fresh faced youth, bought first beer during trip. Catchphrase “Baarf” Jim Graham: Teutonic troublemaker and temporary vegetarian. Nick Hancock: Photographer, eccentric and ladies man. Brought 150 rolls of film, shot five.

The Team about to set off to Talelberg (Photo: Nick Hancock) Glenda Huxter: Undercover reporter showing disturbing taste for long routes and thick bush. Geoff Kirk: Glenda’s bloke and singer. Andy Macnae: Bureaucrat, teetotaller and driving instructor. Steve Myers: Team machine. Catch phrase “I’m not very fit at the moment” Ken ‘Starr’ Palmer: Technical maestro, solo- ist and father. Drinker of pink champagne. Peter Robbins: Team youth and speed climber, 18th birthday during trip. Dave Turnbull: Posh Palmer and Hancock. Geordie and thug. Primi- Plymouth yokels in the desert. tive form of Neanderthal. (Photo: Dave Turnbull) The South Africans: Ed February: The Guv. Short but loud. Nikki: Ed’s wife. Very patient with freeloading Brits. Andre Schoon: The Pres. Snort & the charming Margaret: Dwarfish Sadist and long suffering partner. Jeremy Samson: The rich one “I don’t cook” Tinie Versfeld: Cabinet maker and dancing instructor. Leonard Rust: The tall one. Can cook, but only Potatoes. Mary Jenner: Charming young lady, kind to animals (foreign ones mainly). Mark: Manic Photographer Bruce: Relaxed geezer. Ross Sutter: Dreads of doom, very relaxed geezer. Mr Hellfire. Richard Behne: The professional. Tony Dick: Worlds keenest fifty year old. Alard Hufner: Stuck in England Lekki Birch: Married during UK leg of meet Stuart Middlemass: South African Johnny Woodward- also lives in Salt Lake. And lots of others.

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8165_Summit_13.p65 45 17/02/99, 12:56 British Junior Competition Climbing Team 1998 by Paul J Dewhurst Due to the financial constraints that the whole British Compe- of the Russian Alpine Federation sought me out, “you must tell tition Climbing Team found itself under in 1998, the management your competitors that they must climb in the speed competi- took the descision to send two boys and two girls to three of the tion”. “I can ask them” I said, “can we have ten tickets for the four European Youth Cup events. The four competitors were closing ceremony?” “I don’t think I can get any”, said Alexander. selected from the thirteen strong team, the other team members “But you will try won’t you were given the opportunity to travel to the competitions at their Alex? Because without the Adam Hocking. own expense. To their credit, many of them did. tickets it may be difficult for Dortmund me to convince the team to Placed 7th at Aix en Provence The first competition took place in Dortmund, Germany, 111 climb in the speed climbers from 11 countries taking part. This was also an oppor- event”.Twelve tickets miracu- tunity for some of the team members to meet friends they had lously appeared and the boys made the previous year. The wall was 12 metres high and over- took part in the speed event, hung by 8 metres. The top ten climbers in each group went some more enthusiastically through to the final on the Sunday and Aletia Owen and Adam than others. The three day Dewhurst both picked up seventh places in their age groups. event was well organised and very enjoyable, the Russians Imst had put a lot of effort in to Round 2 Imst, Austria-the second round of the EYC. In 1997 a making this competition a new climbing centre was built in Imst. The centre houses a success, and it was. fifteen metre high wall that has numerous overhangs in its twenty metre width. The Aix en Provence Austrians and the The last round of the EYC Slovenians domi- was held in Aix en Provence, nated the competi- France at the end of October. tion. Encouragingly The venue was the French three of our seven National Climbing Centre climbers got through This was our most success- to the final with Chris ful competition to date. Savage eventually Adam Dewhurst forced a su- placed eighth. per final, only to lose by a th. The weather was touch, and Adam Hocking came 7 Photo: Ian Parnell beautiful and the team Brilliant performances to end the season. took every opportunity to get outside in Results the sun and play on the Tyrolean Dortmund Aletia Owen 18/19 age group 7th. 16/17 age group Adam ropeway. After a Hocking 14th, Abigail Egan 13th. 14/15 age group, Adam Dewhurst game of football 7th, Tom Lawrence 22nd and Robert Elliot 29th, Holly Reay 13th, against some of the and Helen Dale 14th. locals it didn’t need a genius to work out Imst why they were good 18/19 year old Ben Bransby 12th. 16/17 year old Chris Savage th th th at climbing. 8 , Abigail Egan 11 . 14/15 year old Adam Dewhurst 9 , Oliver th th Moscow MacCarthy 22nd, Robert Elliot 25 , and Holly Reay 14 . Moscow hosted Moscow the World Youth 18/19 year old Ben Bransby 23rd difficult & 24th speed. Rapidly ageing team member Ben Games. We ex- Aletia Owen 17th difficulty th rd changed glorious 16/17 year old Chris Savage 16 difficulty & 23 speed Bransby onsighting at Wolfberg th nd sunshine for damp, James Durant 30 difficulty & 22 speed (Photo: Nick Hancock) Abigail Egan 16th difficulty grey and cloud. Rus- Katherine Love 16th difficulty sia is an experience never to be forgotten. The hotel was without 14/15 year old Adam Dewhurst 11th difficulty & 11th speed hot water or heating. 141 climbers from 23 countries would Robert Elliot 27th difficulty & 19th speed compete in the climbing competition. We took ten climbers to Tom Lawrence 29th difficulty & 18th speed attempt the 12m high wall which overhung by seven metres and Holly Reay 19th difficulty. stood at one end of an indoor athletics track. This was the first ever World Youth Games and it was organ- Aix en Provence th ised under the International Olympic Committee banner. It was 16/17 year old Adam Hocking 7 . James Durant 29th. classed as the first Junior Olympic Games, 140 countries took Abigail Egan 17th. part in the week long games. Competition climbing was a dem- 14/15 year old Adam Dewhurst 2nd. onstration sport. Tom Lawrence 21st. The World championships also have a speed competition but Robert Elliot 23rd. none of the British team wanted to take part. The vice president Oliver MacCarthy 28th.

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Briefing OUTOUT NOW NOW ! ! Life Assurance The BMC has responded to the demand by members for af- fordable life assurance with a new Life Assurance Guide. The Guide details a policy which is exclusively underwritten for BMC members and provides Life Cover of £100,000, together with Critical Illness cover of £100,000 from as little as £20 per month. Ordinary premium rates with no loading charge will be quoted for BMC members (subject to satisfactory underwriting and medical evidence) who climb in the UK only. Overseas cover is also available for those who wish to venture around the globe. The policy is arranged by Summit Financial Services on behalf £16.99£16.99 of the BMC. Please contact the BMC Office for your copy of the BMC Life Assurance Guide 1999.

Unsure about being insured? Easter excursions and Summer summits are exciting prospects to ponder and plan. The destination is chosen, travel arrangements are made, equipment is packed and just in case there is a mishap on the hill an insurance policy is purchased. It can be comforting to have an insurance policy when we are in the hills but insurance is essential for the whole duration of a trip. Accidents can just as easily occur on your way to and from a destination. The BMC is aware of a car accident in America where one group of walkers incurred costs of almost £250,000 in medical bills with some individuals incurring costs of over £10,000 per day. Applications for a BMC short term policy must cover the whole duration of a trip starting and finishing in the UK or Eire. An annual policy offers great value with cover that can be extended to include UK and overseas activities. Terry Tullis Retires - Harrison’s Rocks HI-FI Stereo 1958-1998 PAL To mark the retirement of Terry Tullis after 40 years of dedicated work as warden of Harrison’s Rocks, the BMC and local 65 Minutes climbers are organising a special dinner at the High Rocks Hotel on Friday 14 May. Terry retires on 20 April and will be handing over to his son Chris. The dinner is at 8.00pm in the Presidents Room. There will be a short presentation of Terry’s slides followed by a live Jazz Please return coupon to: Greenshires Publishing,Telford Way, Kettering, Northants NN16 8UN band. Tickets are available from Bob Moulton, Tara, Underhill PLEASE SEND ME COPIES OF MONKEY PUMP Lane, Ditchling, HASSOCKS, West Sussex, BN6 8XE. Tel 01273 I enclose a cheque for £ ...... (Made payable for GreenShires Publishing) 844828. The price is £20 per head and cheques should be made Please add £1.25 P&P UK + BFPO / £4.00 for Overseas Surface or £8.00 for Airmail payable to C F Tullis. Please debit my VISA / MASTERCARD / SWITCH (Issue No.______) On the following day (15 May) there will be a ‘boot’ sale of Expiry Date climbing gear in the Harrison’s Rocks car park followed by the Southern Sandstone Open Meeting at the Junction Inn, CARDHOLDER’S SIGNATURE...... Groombridge at 7.00pm. NAME...... ADDRESS...... 48 POSTCODE...... DAYTIME TELEPHONEBMC NO...... SUMMIT - ISSUE 13

8165_Summit_13.p65 48 17/02/99, 16:30 MOUNTAIN LIBRARY

Souvenirs From High Places by Joe Bensen. Big Walls by Paul Piana. £17.99(£3.50). Highly Large format book with Eric Shipton bio. outstanding photos and recommended £18.99(£3.50) text. £22(£3.50)

The Peak: Past and present/Stainforth. Fantastic photo and text book. £25(£4.00) One of the best books this year. Classic Rock £19.99 (£3.50) The classic book This Game Of Ghosts - on nice rock. K2: Challenging Sky Joe Simpson’s sequel to £19.95(£3.50). Touching The Void Large format. £16.99 (£2.50)

Rock Climbing in Australia. Fantastic large format photo guide to Australian crags by Touching the Void by Simon Carter Joe Simpson. Doug Scott: Himalayan £29.99(£3.50) £11.95(£2.50) Climber £14.99(£3.50) Peak Bouldering - Mont Blanc/Ardito Rockfax #09. £15(£1.25) £30(£3.50)

Highland Outcrops of Scotland. £14.95(£2.50) The Munros/McNeish A History of Mountain... Deep Play by Paul £10(£3.50) Ice World by Jeff Lowe £45(£3.50). Large format. Pritchard £16.99(£2.50) £19.95(£3.50)

World Mountaineering: Text, info & photos of World’s greatest Mount McKinley. mountains. Large Format. Mont Blanc Massif: Chris Bonington: Bradford Washburn Edited by Audrey Salkeld The 100 Finest Routes. Rock Stars/Heinz Zak Mountaineer £14.99(£3.50) photography. £38(£3.50) £35(£5.00) £25(£3.50) £29.95(£3.50) * FIGURE IN BRACKETS DENOTES POSTAGE COST WITHIN UK ONLY * ORDERS BY PHONE: 01536 382500 / FAX: 01536 382501 or See Coupon On Page 33

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