Marrakech Destination Guide

Home , Avenue Mohammed VI, Ben Youssef Mosque, Dar el Bacha, Marrakech Museum, Menara Gardens, Saadian Tombs

Marrakech Destination Guide Contents Contents 2 Quick Facts 3 About Marrakech 4 Events & Nightlife 5 Top Destinations 9 Tours & Activities 13 Food & Dining Out 15 Shopping 18 Best Time To Visit 20 Travel Tips 21 Quick Facts

Flying Time: 3 hours 40 minutes Currency: Moroccan Dirham Language: Arabic Time Zone: GMT+0 Visit For: Culture, Arts, Architecture, Nightlife, Shopping, Trekking

3 About Marrakech

Imagine a city where you can sip cocktails at sunset on a rooftop terrace as a smouldering sun sinks over distant mountains; where labyrinthine alleys lead you happily astray and where past and present collide to create a rich tapestry of life. This is Marrakech, a potent, intoxicating city of souks, spices, snake charmers and hidden palaces, all of which rub shoulders with fashionable art galleries, achingly hip hotels and steaming hammams. Marrakech brings the most outlandish travellers' tales to life. The pink city has waylaid desert caravans since the 11th century, as visitors succumb to the charms of its bluesy Gnaoua trance music, hypnotic calls to prayer and multi-course feasts. Marrakech delivers an exotic and exciting taste of Africa and yet is only a few hours away from Europe by plane. Visitors often disappear down a maze of winding alleys and emerge days later, relaxed and refreshed from their stays in spectacular riads. These traditional courtyard guesthouses range from opulent, palatial oases to smaller, more intimate affairs but they all promise a snapshot of traditional life. Adventure awaits in the medina (old city), with its fondouks (artisans' workshops) and seven zaouias (saints' shrines). Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, the medina and its souks (markets) have an enduring appeal. Here, donkey carts jostle for space and men dressed in floor-length djallebahs and veiled women go about their daily chores. One of the most arresting experiences in the medina is visiting the pungent-smelling tanneries, where the centuries-old tradition of turning animal hides into leather continues to this day. Marrakech’s much-celebrated square, Jemaa el Fna, is also a must-see. Thronging with crowds every evening, it is filled with a dazzling, unforgettable spectacle: more than 100 makeshift stalls selling adventurous concoctions from vast cauldrons - steaming bowls of snails, sheep's head soup, fried aubergines, ubiquitous mint tea and spicy cakes. Meanwhile, musicians, fortune-tellers, dancing cobras, colourful water sellers, storytellers and acrobats are among those who enthral tourists long into the night. Towering over the scene is the stately Koutoubia minaret, a template for Hispano-Mauresque architecture and a reminder of the importance of Islam to the lives of the city's residents. Other key attractions include palaces and elegant gardens but really the essence of capturing Marrakech is to experience it, rather than simply see it. Visiting a local hammam, or public steam bath, is an eye-opening experience and not one of the faint-hearted or shy. Certainly, the city that lured hedonists and idealists in the 20th century now attracts fashionistas and trendy couples in search of luxury spas, chic bars and clubs. A fluourishing arts and music scene is also firmly stamping Marrakech on the cultural map. Those who want to explore further afield should visit the bohemian, white-washed coastal resort of Essaouira or take a trip into the Atlas Mountains, home to Berber villages and an increasing plethora of soft adventure activities such as white water rafting and hiking.

4 Events & Nightlife

See the list of exciting Events taking place in Marrakech, as well as the varied Nightlife on offer Events Festival International du Film de Marrakech From: 30-11-2014 To: 08-12-2014 Varies. A week-long extravaganza showcases African and Arab film, with Hollywood glitterati upstaged by the ever-popular open-air Bollywood screenings. Venue Name: Various venues. Marathon de Marrakech From: 27-01-2015 To: 27-01-2015 Free to spectate. Runners dash to the Palmeraie and back from the Jemaa el Fna. Venue Name: Begins and ends in Jemaa el Fna. Dakka Marrakchia Festival From: 01-02-2015 To: 28-02-2015 Free. A celebration of the country's traditional music that has been passed down through generations and has survived for over 1,000 years, this festival pays tribute to local saints. The music features a combination of drums and chants, as well as other traditional instruments, and blends together to make a lively, foot-stomping beat. Venue Name: Various neighbourhoods. Festival National des Arts Populaires From: 01-07-2015 To: 31-07-2015 Free. Berber music, folk dance and street performers pour into Marrakech from around the country to entertain the masses for free. Venue Name: Marrakech. Setti Fatma Moussem

5 From: 01-08-2015 To: 31-08-2015 Free. Each region in Morocco has its own 'moussem'â?? a festival which can take any shape. There is usually a souk or market, an agricultural fair, feasting, games and other entertainment as well as a religious element. One of the country's most famous is at Setti Fatma in the cool freshness of the stunning Ourika Valley. Famous for its seven waterfalls, Setti Fatma is a lovely place to visit at any time of year but the moussem in August gives an added incentive. Venue Name: Setti Fatma. Nightlife Marrakech has something of a reputation for its nightlife, which covers groovy Ibiza-style discos to belly-dancing. Music is at the heart of cultural life in Marrakech, as it is throughout Morocco. Marrakech is almost certainly the best place to enjoy the fusion of Moroccan music, as the city has been the host to Andalucian, Arab, Berber and African influences for up to 10 centuries. The medina provides traditional evening entertainment in the form of cafés, food stalls and street entertainment, with everything revolving around Jemaa el Fna, where many of the best performers are often to be found. For happening bars and clubs, head for Guéliz and Hivernage. Clustered along Avenue Mohammed V, particularly around place Abdel Moumen ben Ali, are most of the city's bars, as well as a wide variety of restaurants, bistros and sidewalk cafés. The city's best nightclubs are located in Hivernage hotels or in venues just outside town. Although Morocco is an Islamic country, there is a laid-back attitude towards alcohol, with bars in most tourist areas staying open late. In the medina, law and etiquette dictate that alcohol should not be consumed openly within view of a mosque, so drink discreetly indoors or on roof terraces. Théâtre Royal More formal cultural events take the form of festivals, although there are some performances of opera and dance in the open-air amphitheatre of the Théâtre Royal in Guéliz. 40 Avenue Mohammed VI Marrakesh 05244 31516. Café Arabe In the medina, the choice is somewhat limited. The serpentine sofas on the roof terrace of the Café Arabe inspire nights on cocktails, mint teas or aperitifs overlooking the mountains. It's an elegant space and a world away from the noisy streets below. 184 rue Mouassine Marrakesh 05244 29728. Café-Bar de l'Escale

6 Guéliz has a much greater range of bars, though there's a fine line between characterful and outright seedy. The Café-Bar de l'Escale is the rare relaxed place where beers can be taken out to the pavement tables. Rue Mauretania, Avenue Mohammed V Marrakesh Le Bar Churchill All the big hotels also have bars. One of the most glamorous in the city is undoubtedly Le Bar Churchill, at La Mamounia Hotel, which has a sumptuous Moorish and art deco interior and a strict dress code. It is named after the hotel's most famous guest and is the perfect place for an aperitif in jazzy 1930s style. La Mamounia, Avenue Bab Jedid Marrakesh (0524) 388 600. Diamant Noir Although Marrakech has a reputation within Morocco for nightlife, clubs are an expensive extravagance where behaviour doesn't conform to strictest Moroccan codes of propriety. Music tends to be a mixture of Western pop music, Moroccan hits and funky DJ mashups. The slightly camp Diamant Noir has an easy-going party atmosphere and a dance floor where straight and gay mix easily. Place de la Liberté Marrakesh 05244 34351. Pacha Marrakech Pacha Marrakech is the nightclub with the magnetic pull to attract DJs away from New York and Amsterdam and playboys and partiers from Casablanca and Ibiza, so on the right night you won't begrudge the taxi ride from town. The place has a capacity for 3,000 but during the week it echoes. At weekends you'll be lucky to squeeze in, even in your best club attire. It houses two restaurants, a swimming pool and a chill-out lounge. Avenue Mohammed VI Marrakesh 05243 88400. Le Salama This is one of the hottest places in Marrakech, attracting diners, drinkers and dancers. Housed in a period colonial building, this sumptuous club offers Moroccan lanterns, dark floors, mirrored walls, ornamental woodwork and views of the Atlas Mountains. 40 Rue des Banque Marrakech 05243 91300. Jemaa el Fna Anyone with even a passing interest in music should head straight for Jemaa el Fna. The best time to go for music is in the mid- to late evening, as the square gradually empties and the dedicated street musicians take over, playing their repetitive, rhythmic melodies on a mixture of banjos, lutes, guitars, flutes, drums and makeshift violins. The most enchanting of the styles on offer is Gnaoua trance music, best exemplified by the internationally-renowned band Nass Marrakech, which formed in the city. This music, a blend of African styles that derived from freed slaves' songs, combines repetitive rhythms and choric voices to create a trance-like awareness of the present moment in the listener. 7 Jemaa el Fna Marrakesh African Chic African Chic hosts live music nightly in Marrakech. It offers two huge bars, a great cocktail menu and an explosive atmosphere. Keep an eye out for celebrities - Keanu Reeves once popped in for a night out. Rue Oum Errabia Marrakesh 05244 31424.

8 Top Destinations

Menara Gardens With its backdrop of the Atlas Mountains, it is no surprise that the Menara Gardens are one of the most photographed places in Morocco. It is also a popular place among locals for picnics. The best time to come is late afternoon when most of the tourists have left. More a working farm than a garden, the Menara was laid out in the 12th century by the Almohads. Around 30,000 olive trees are set around a magnificent reflecting pool, filled with fish that leap above the surface to the surprise of passing walkers. The well-kept picnic pavilion, the menzeh, was built much later in 1869. The first-floor open balcony offers a wonderful view over the pool and the mountains beyond. Opening Times: 0530-1830. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes Address: Avenue de la Menara Marrakech Bahia Palace The 19th-century Bahia Palace still functions as a royal residence where the king entertains, but dozens of rooms are open to the public to see how the royals lived, including the former residence of the Grand Vizier's four wives and his royal harem of 24 concubines. These rooms are decked out floor to ceiling with an eye-popping combination of stuccowork, mosaics and intricately carved and painted woodwork. Opening Times: Mon-Thurs and Sat-Sun 0830-1145 and 1430-1745, Fri 0830-1130 and 1500-1745. Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes Address: Rue Riad Zitoun el-Jedid Marrakech Telephone: 05243 89564. Marrakech souks Marrakech appeals to all five senses and the sixth besides - you'll need to trust your intuition to find your way through the labyrinth of souks (market streets) with carpet dealers lying in wait around every corner. The main souks are found through an arch to the north of the Jemaa el Fna. Each section has its own speciality - slippers, spices, lamps and jewellery. The medicinal lotions and potions are particularly interesting, especially those to ward off Jinn (souls without bodies) held responsible for a whole range of ills. Avoid any 'unofficial guides' who offer their services: the whole point of the souks is getting lost, catching glimpses of handicrafts in progress, and finding bargains to boot. Touts may offer to guide you to the tanneries to the northeast of the souks, but this 'attraction' is better avoided. The local leather-tanning setup involves toxic chemical dyes and an unholy stench, and is a favourite haunt of local glue-sniffers - hardly picturesque. The dense central souks offer far more appealing sights to fill an afternoon, and even if you've no intention of buying anything, they're worth a visit for the ambience. Opening Times: Daily approximately 0900-1900. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: No 9 Koutoubia Mosque From any approach, the first sight of Marrakech is of the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque, which dominates the skyline and is a handy reference point for lost travellers. Marrakech's tallest building dates from the 12th century and is the prototype for Moroccan design, with each facade and archway on the square minaret carved with a different architectural flourish. Originally, it was covered in plaster with each tier decoratively painted, but a 1990s restoration opted to leave the stonework exposed. The architecture can be admired at close quarters from the recently renovated gardens, where you can glimpse the foundations of an 11th-century Almoravid mosque demolished because it was not correctly aligned with Mecca. Opening Times: Mosque and minaret closed to non-Muslims; gardens open sunrise-sunset. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes Address: Avenue Mohammed V Marrakech El Badi Palace This once magnificent palace, whose name means the 'incomparable', was built in 1578 by the Midas of Marrakech, Saadian sultan Ahmed el-Mansour. Its 360 rooms were once sumptuously decorated in marble, gold, onyx, ivory, cedar wood and semi-precious stones, surrounding a vast central courtyard of pools, fountains and sunken gardens. This was the venue for parties of extreme extravagance until the sultan died, the capital was moved to Meknès and the palace was stripped of anything valuable. Little remains of its glory days and the ruins of the battlements surround a vast empty space where sumptuous gardens and palace rooms once stood. Today the main attractions are the nesting storks that have made their home here and (for an additional entrance fee) the original 12th-century marquetry minbar (pulpit) inlaid with silver and gold and painstakingly restored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Every summer it comes to life as the main venue for the National Festival of Popular Arts, and recently it has served as a venue for lounge and electronica music festivals. Opening Times: Daily 0830-1145 and 1430-1745. Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes Address: Bab Berrima Marrakech Majorelle Garden and Museum of Islamic Art Given by the fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent as a gift to the city of Marrakech, this botanical garden was created in the 1920s by French artists Jacques and Louis Majorelle. Perfectly manicured gardens, with pools, giant cacti, bamboo, coconut and banana trees, stand out against the bright-blue wash that covers the villa and garden walls, with splashes of lemon yellow and emerald green on planters, doors and furnishings. A must-see, both for the garden and a peek inside the Majorelles' old studio, which now houses Yves Saint Laurent's collection of local arts and antiques in the Museum of Islamic Art. Opening Times: Daily 0800-1800 (May-Sep); daily 0800-1730 (Oct-Apr). Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes

10 Address: Entrance in side street off avenue Yacoub el Mansour Marrakech Telephone: 05243 13047. Saadian Tombs One of the most visited sites in Marrakech and in Morocco, the Saadian Tombs were discovered and opened to the public in 1917. The entrance is signposted inside the main gate to the Kasbah, a short walk from Jemaa el Fna. The principal structures of the tombs were built by Sultan Ahmed el-Mansour and date from the late 16th century. An enclosed garden is overlooked by two separate mausoleums, with over 100 mosaic-decorated graves scattered inside lavishly decorated chambers and outside in the courtyard (where most of the royal wives and concubines ended up). The mausoleum reserved for the sultan and his favourite sons boasts magnificent domed ceilings, gilded stalactite plasterwork, intricate carving and marble pillars. There are 66 members of the Saadian royal family buried here, alongside chancellors and royal advisors and some much older graves whose identity has been lost. Visitors should expect long queues unless they visit early to avoid the rush. Opening Times: Daily 0830-1145 and 1430-1745. Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes Address: Rue de la Kasbah Marrakech Jemaa el Fna (Place of the Dead) Jemaa el Fna square is the centre of medina life both day and night as a gathering place and unofficial stage for street theatre. For more than a millennium, the Jemaa el Fna's daily bill has featured acrobats, henna tattoo artists, storytellers, belly dancers, musicians, snake charmers and potion sellers. Mint sellers and carts selling dried fruit and freshly squeezed orange juice make way at dusk for 100 makeshift barbecue restaurants and troupes of entertainers vying for attention. Visitors should take plenty of loose change, as the performers do expect a couple of Dirhams worth of appreciation and some of the more colourful characters will pose for a photo for a small charge. That said, this is not a spectacle just for tourists; the crowd is mostly Moroccan. Jemaa el Fna is surrounded by cafés and restaurants, perfect places to escape the hustle and observe the proceedings with a mint tea, coffee or light meal. Café Argana, Café de France and Café Glacier all have roof terraces with wonderful views, although they are slightly more expensive than other local cafés. Disabled Access: No Musée Tiskiwin Near the Musée Dar Si Said is a beautiful double riad containing the private collection of folk crafts belonging to Dutch collector Bert Flint. This small, dusty, and appealingly quirky museum leads visitors on a journey from Tuareg artifacts of the Sahara to the talismanic Berber adornments of the Atlas Mountains. Despite being around the corner from the Musée Dar Si Said, the way is poorly signed and it is easy to get lost en route; follow the signs on Rue Riad Zitoun el-Jedid instead. Opening Times: Daily 0900-1230 and 1500-1730. Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes Address: 8 Rue Dar Bahia Marrakech Telephone: 05243 89192. Musée Dar Si Said

11 Marrakech has several excellent museums, all set in historic buildings and highlighting collections of local arts and crafts. Just north of the Bahia Palace along Rue Riad Zitoun el-Jedid you'll notice signs pointing the way to Musée Dar Si Said. This former mansion of 19th-century royal chamberlain Sidi Said now houses a notable collection of daggers, carved doors, musical instruments and mysterious kitchen implements. The route through the museum flows through maze-like entry rooms, a courtyard and upstairs to the magnificent domed wedding chamber and top-floor kitchen. Opening Times: Wed-Mon 0900-1200 and 1500-1800. Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes Address: Off Rue Riad Zitoun el-Jedid Marrakech Telephone: 05243 89564. Ben Youssef Medersa, Musée de Marrakech and Koubba el Badiyin In the heart of Marrakech's souks, the sublime Ben Youssef Medersa is a former Koranic school where the main courtyard is a wonder of stucco, mosaics and marble surrounded by balconies of exquisite carved cedar and relatively austere dorm rooms where students lived, memorised scriptures, crammed for tests in Islamic law, and prepared simple hot-plate meals. A visit here can be combined with a trip to the Musée de Marrakech (Museum of Marrakech), a magnificently restored 19th-century mansion built by the Mnebhi family that now displays carpets, jewellery, furniture, ceramics, textiles and manuscripts. Across the square in front of the Ali ben Youssef Mosque is the Koubba el Badiyin, the sole surviving structure of the city's Almoravid founders other than the mud-brick city walls. A combined ticket gives same-day access to the Medersa, museum, and Koubba el Badiyin. Opening Times: Medersa daily 0900-1800, museum and Koubba daily 0900-1900. Admission Fees: Yes. Disabled Access: Yes Address: Place ben Youssef (in the souks) Marrakech Telephone: (0524) 441 893.

12 Tours & Activities

Atlas Mountains Framing the city, the Atlas Mountains can be visited in a day from the city on an organised tour. If time is short, it's worth booking a trip to enjoy closer views of orche-coloured mountains and valleys and a snapshot of traditional life. Many operators offer tours often in 4WD vehicles. It typically involves a stop at Imlil and a tour around Berber villages, combined with lunch. Setti Fatma Set within grassy terraces, the riverside hamlet of Setti Fatma is situated 40 miles (60km) southeast of Marrakech. The village lies at the very end of the winding Ourika Valley beyond the reach of most tourist coaches. Setti Fatma itself is merely a mud-brick village, if rather pretty, but the seven waterfalls that tumble and tear through the craggy rocks above it make it a popular location for treks and picnics. The first of the falls is quite an easy climb and it is possible to swim here in the icy-cold waters of the rock pool or to sunbathe on the rocks. The higher falls are harder work and sturdy shoes and a good head for heights will be required, although there are plenty of guides willing to offer help. The banks of several of the falls are lined with pleasant little cafés and restaurants. The best way to get to Setti Fatma is by grand taxi from the main bus station in Marrakech. Essaouira Located 180km (112 miles) west of Marrakech, this 18th-century walled coastal outpost and UNESCO World Heritage site is a trading and fishing port with a history dating back to the seventh century BC. With its silky-sand beach and blue-and-white-painted houses, it has a long association with artists, who are a clearly visible part of life in Essaouira today. It now also boasts some gorgeous places to stay. A series of stone forts built along the seafront in a blend of Portuguese, French and Berber military architecture lend a powerful mystique to the town. The cooling Atlantic breeze, the alizee, has made it popular for surfing, windsurfing, and kite-boarding, although the stiff wind and choppy waves require advanced skills. Sunbathing, games of football and jogging along the beach are all popular activities. The quickest way of getting to Essaouira from Marrakech is by grand taxi, which offers the added bonus of possibly witnessing tree-climbing goats en route. Supratours express buses leave Marrakech next to the train station several times a day. Telephone: 04478 3532. Walking tours It used to be common to step outside a hotel and find a 'guide' willing to give you a tour around Marrakech for a fee, but these days the tourist police have clamped down on the unlicensed escorts who inevitably guided you to a monument or two by way of a cousin's carpet shop. If you're short on time and exploring the souks solo holds no appeal, ask your hotel or riad to recommend a reliable, knowledgeable guide or get a list of licensed guides from the tourist office. As always, a fee should be negotiated in advance. Visitors shopping in the souks with a guide should be aware that they'll probably get better deals coming back later alone, since most guides have commission arrangements with specific shops. For small groups, MCI Tours can arrange various walking tours, such as exploring the medina. Telephone: 21244 438742. Horse drawn tours

13 Grands taxis can be hired for tours of the city and day excursions at the ranks in Guéliz by the Post Office or at Jemaa el Fna. It is also possible to hire a calèche (horse-drawn carriage) for a tour of the town. For both modes of transport the price should be negotiated in advance. Hiking Mountain Voyage is a licensed British-owned company based in Marrakech that offers tailor-made tours inside the city and trekking excursions in the High Atlas Mountains. Another reliable company offering English-speaking guides is Atlas Sahara Trek. Mount Toubkal, Morocco's highest peak, at 4,167m (13,890ft), often attracts keen climbers White water rafting Morocco Rafting offers adrenalin-junkies the chance to raft some wild rivers in the Atlas Mountains. The company, which pioneered rafting trips in Morocco, offers a three-day trip, which takes in the challenging Ahansel River dotted with rapids called Wee Stinky, The Squeeza, Jungle Corridor, The Mill and Fake Right, Go Left and Rock the Kasbah. The company also offers canyoning, kayaking and tubing. Golfing Marrakech has three 18-hole golf courses: La Palmerie, Amelkis Gold Club and the Royal Marrakech Golf Club. The latter has a formidable reputation: Churchill and Eisenhower played here in 1943 after the famous Casablanca conference during WWII. The course is stunning and features scented eucalyptus, olive, palm and orange groves, with the mighty background of the snow capped peaks of the Atlas mountains looming in the distance. Horse riding Horse riding enthusiasts can enjoy a day long trip to sprawling Palm Grove on the outskirts of the city, featuring thousands of trees. Although it is now home to luxury tourist facilities, from golf courses to hotels, visitors can saddle up for a couple of hours and enjoy this serene oasis.

14 Food & Dining Out

Restaurants: The Marrakech restaurants below have been grouped into three pricing categories: Expensive (over Dh350) Moderate (Dh100 to Dh350) Cheap (under Dh100) These Marrakech restaurant prices are for a three-course meal; wine is not available in many Marrakech eateries.

Marrakech restaurant prices are subject to 20% VAT (Value Added Tax). In the upmarket restaurants, service charges of 10-15% are added to the bill; if not, a tip of this amount is expected. Jemaa el Fna Category: Cheap For the most authentic Moroccan dining experience, join the crowds and eat within the Jemaa el Fna itself. As twilight falls, over 100 food stalls are set up and clouds of smoke drift over the square as all manner of meats are grilled and served with cooked vegetable salads as sides. Wander around until you see ingredients that look the freshest, then squeeze onto one of the benches. Bread is used instead of cutlery and orange juice is brought from one of the many juice stalls. A word of warning - although the food is well cooked, ask for food to be served on paper instead of hastily rinsed plates, and drink OJ from your water bottle instead of reused cups. Jemaa-el-Fna Address: Jemaa el Fna Marrakech Chez Chegrouni Category: Cheap A better option for delicate stomachs and vegetarians than the food stalls in the Jemaa el Fna but still within the square, Chez Chegrouni is a hugely popular restaurant with tourists and locals alike. It offers all the usual dishes and has a small terrace at the front to watch the nightly antics. Unlike many of the other budget restaurants in Marrakech, this place does not use meat stock for non-meat dishes, so vegetarian dishes are just that. Although it's small and basic, it's very clean and well run, and a justifiable favourite. Telephone: 06654 74615. Address: Jemaa el-Fna Marrakech Café de France Category: Cheap A local institution and one of the most famous cafés in Marrakech, Café de France is popular as a meeting place for those with business in the medina. The street-level terrace is good for watching the comings and goings in the square, while the roof terraces have superb views. The menu offers unexceptional but serviceable fare and decent coffee at a reasonable price; what you're paying for here is the location and convenience factor.

15 Address: Rue des Banques Marrakech Terrasse des épices Category: Moderate Chic and sleek, the Terrasse des épices offers a smart space for meeting and eating north of Jemaa El Fna. Offering a tantalising mix in Moroccan and continental cuisine it also tempts with a fabulous line in desserts. Dine alfresco or in attractive private nooks. Post-business, this is one of the city's liveliest spots at night. Telephone: 05243 75904. Address: 15 Souk Cherifa Marrakech Le Grand Café de la Poste Category: Moderate Once a sorting office and colonial hotel, this deco Casablanca-style eatery is where Mediterranean flair meets top-notch Moroccan ingredients on the inventive seasonal à la carte menu. Among the potted palms in the dining room, ordinary mortals mingle with movie stars on a break from filming desert scenes. With ample vegetarian options, salads, and dishes light on the sauces, it's easy to justify dessert. Telephone: 05244 33038. Address: Boulevard El Mansour Eddahbi Marrakech La Maison Arabe Category: Expensive The restaurant of Marrakech's famed hotel offers a selection of traditional Moroccan dishes and local specialties, including a few vegetarian options. The restaurant has a plush interior with hand-painted woodwork and some tables spill over into the pretty, shaded courtyard. Good for lunch as well as dinner, but dinner is accompanied by excellent Arab-Andalusian music. Serves alcohol. Telephone: 05243 87010. Address: 1 Derb Assehbe Medina Al Fassia Category: Moderate Al Fassia has become a local legend for hearty yet elegant dishes from the Middle Atlas and Fes. The restaurant is run by a group of sisters who recreate their own family recipes with top-notch ingredients and a sharp all-female staff. The menu is à la carte and the décor plush, modern Moroccan. A wide selection of savoury meat dishes, tagines and couscous are on offer, but the array of nine salads alone is enough to satisfy a vegetarian. Serves alcohol. Telephone: 0524 383839 or 381138. Address: 55 Boulevard Zerktouni (at end of pedestrian passage) Marrakech Dar Moha

16 Category: Expensive The culinary star of Marrakech has set new standards for Moroccan fusion cuisine, with combinations dreamed up daily from the souks and the imagination of Chef Mohammed Fedal. Dar Moha's menu consists of sumptuous fix-priced feasts. The best seats in this former family home are around the petal-strewn pool in the garden, where musicians play in the evenings and a grill house emits tantalising aromas by day. Reservations necessary. Serves alcohol. Telephone: 05243 86400. Address: 81 Rue Dar el-Bacha Marrakech Comptoir Darna Category: Expensive Comptoir Darna is still the place to be seen and the favourite hang-out for Marrakech's beautiful people. Both cocktail bar and restaurant, Comptoir Darna segues from mellow dining downstairs to outbursts of belly-dancing and carousing by the upstairs bar as the night wears on. The Franco- Moroccan menu works well in this sumptuous, east-meets-west setting where diplomats, supermodels and minor royalty rub shoulders. Telephone: 05244 37702. Address: Avenue Echouada Marrakech

17 Shopping

Shopping is an absolute delight in Marrakech and one of the city's key attractions. Bargaining is essential to do shopping in Marrakech - visitors should start at around one third of what they want to pay. Key Areas: A good place to buy carpets is Bazaar Chichoua, 5 Souk des Ksous, but be prepared to spend hours drinking mint tea, head shaking, sighing and smiling as rugs and carpets are unrolled. Handmade copper and silverware, silk or cotton garments, wooden articles and jewellery can be found in Ministero del Gusto, 22 Derb Azouz el Moussine or at L'Orientaliste, 15 rue de la Libertie, Guéliz. Trésorie du Sud, Rue el Mouassine, is one of many small jewellers near the Mouassine Mosque.

For leather, Place Vendome, 141 Avenue Mohammed V, is a good bet if quality matters more than price. Chic boutiques cluster in Guéliz around Rue de la Liberté, while Rue Yogouslavie is dotted with hidden galleries. For sartorial and accessories elegance, step into the wonder that is Akbar Delights, 7 rue des Anciens Marrakchis. Markets: Leading off from the northern edge of Jemaa el Fna are the winding alleyways of the souks, the vast, crowded, chaotic central market of Marrakech. Browsers can pick up anything from jewellery, textiles or carpets, to herbs, love potions and donkeys. The souks are best approached from Rue Souk Smarine. This busy thoroughfare runs for half the length of the souks before forking into Souk el Attarine and Souk el Kebir. Leading off the Souk el Attarine are spice, pottery, textiles and metalwork souks. Wander around the Souk el Kebir area to find leather bags and poufs, carpets, lamps and traditional Moroccan clothing. Shopping Centres: The government-run Ensemble Artisanal, Avenue Mohammed V, near the Koutoubia Mosque, is a small shopping mall and crafts training centre, offering high-quality goods at reasonable, fixed prices. Centre Artisanal, Kasbah 7 Derb Baissi Kasbah, also specialises in souvenirs, offering everything from traditional clothing to jewellery, home furnishings to carpets. Prices are fixed however. Times: Shopping hours in the medina are usually Monday to Thursday and Sunday 0900-1900, and Friday 0900-1200 and 1600-1900. In Guéliz, shops open Monday to Saturday 0900-1230 and 1530-1900. Some shops may close on Friday. Souvenirs: Carpets, lanterns, jewellery, babouches, jellabas, kaftans, belts, bags, shoes, handicrafts and art are just some of the best buys in Marrakech. Tax Info:

18 There is no provision in Marrakech for tourists to reclaim any sales tax or VAT. Many shop- owners actively resist giving an official receipt, as this forces them to declare (and pay) the VAT.

19 Best Time To Visit

With its minimal rainfall, Marrakech is a magical place for a holiday whatever the season. Winter is bright and crisp, while autumn brings delicious fresh produce into the markets. Spring sees the Atlas Mountains covered in flowers, while the city's red-hot summers can be offset by a day-trip to the sandy coast. For North African music lovers, one particularly good time to visit Marrakech is in June or early July, during the Festival of Popular Arts or the third week of June, when the annual Gnaoua Festival is held in Essaouira.

20 Travel Tips

Public Transport: The national coach company CTM (tel: (0524) 447 420; is the main provider of public transport in Marrakech. Most local bus services leave from Marrakech's central bus station just outside Bab Doukkala on the northwestern edge of the old city. CTM services are reliable and operate from early morning until late at night, with night buses running on the more popular routes. Single fares are paid to the driver on boarding. Buses 1 and 20 ply the route between Guéliz and Jemaa el Fna along Boulevard Mohammed V. Taxis: Quicker than the buses, Marrakech's petits taxis are standard metered beige taxis, which can be hailed around the city. Check to see that the meter is working when you get in and when you arrive, round up the fare to the nearest dirham or two as a tip. Grands taxis are old Mercedes cars that carry up to six people for a fixed fare agreed upon in advance, usually to out-of-town destinations such as Essaouira. When full, grands taxis leave from the bus station, from the Jemaa el Fna and from the Post Office in Guéliz.

A calèche is a horse-drawn carriage carrying up to five people, either as a mode of transport within the medina or as a picturesque way to tour the environs of Marrakech. State-fixed hourly rates should be painted on the side of the carriage; for short trips, prices should be agreed in advance. Calèches line up in the garden square between the Koutoubia Mosque and Jemaa el Fna, el Badi Palace and the more expensive hotels in the Hivernage. Driving: Driving in Marrakech is not recommended. Many of the roads in the medina are too narrow for cars and accident are frequent, especially around the medina, where people and cyclists are apt to pull out suddenly in front of the traffic. After dark, the dangers increase since it is legal to drive cars and ride bicycles without lights at up to 20kph (12mph).

Street parking is rare, and should you find it, a tip of a few dirhams is expected by the 'parking guardian' on the block (usually wearing a blue coat). Private parking in Guéliz can be found at any of the big hotels or off the Avenue Mohammed V. In the medina, security-patrolled spaces are available at Jemaa-el-Fna outside the Foucauld Hôtel and on Rue Riad Zitoun el Jedid beside the Préfecture (police headquarters). Car Hire: Drivers must be over 21 to hire a car. Most European driving licences are acknowledged in Morocco, but an International Driving Permit is recommended. Third-party insurance is automatically included when renting a car, but you might want to pay extra for collision damage waiver and personal insurance to avoid exorbitant charges in case of an accident. Hire fees are subject to 20% government tax; visitors should make sure that this has been added to the agreed price. Bike Hire:

21 Popular alternatives to car travel include bicycles and scooters. Both can be rented from Marrakech Motos, 31 Avenue Abdelkarim el Khattabi, Guéliz (tel: (0524) 448 359). Test the brakes and tyres before hiring. A popular bicycle route is from the medina out to the Pameraie (palm grove), though a mountain bike may be needed to handle rugged unpaved roads. Sightseeing: Passes: Office National Marocain du Tourisme (ONMT)

Opening Times: Mon-Fri 0900-1200 and 1500-1830. Address: Place Abdel Moumen Ben Ali Guéliz, Marrakech Dialing Code: 524 Population: 794620 Population Year: 2011