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Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
SOCIAL CLASS in AMERICA TRANSCRIPT – FULL Version
PEOPLE LIKE US: SOCIAL CLASS IN AMERICA TRANSCRIPT – FULL Version Photo of man on porch dressed in white tank top and plaid shorts MAN: He looks lower class, definitely. And if he’s not, then he’s certainly trying to look lower class. WOMAN: Um, blue collar, yeah, plaid shorts. MAN: Lower middle class, something about the screen door behind him. WOMAN ON RIGHT, BROWN HAIR: Pitiful! WOMAN ON LEFT, BLOND HAIR, SUNGLASSES: Lower class. BLACK WOMAN, STANDING WITH WHITE MAN IN MALL: I mean, look how high his pants are up–my god! Wait a minute–I’m sorry, no offense. Something he would do. Photo of slightly older couple. Man is dressed in crisp white shirt, woman in sleeveless navy turtle neck with pearl necklace. WOMAN: Upper class. MAN: Yeah, definitely. WOMAN: Oh yeah. WOMAN: He look like he the CEO of some business. OLD WOMAN: The country club set- picture of smugness. GUY ON STREET: The stereotypical “my family was rich, I got the money after they died, now we’re happily ever after.” They don’t really look that happy though. Montage of images: the living situations of different social classes Song: “When you wish upon a star, makes no difference who you are. Anything your heart desires will come to you. If your heart is in your dream, no request is too extreme.” People Like Us – Transcript - page 2 R. COURI HAY, society columnist: It’s basically against the American principle to belong to a class. So, naturally Americans have a really hard time talking about the class system, because they really don’t want to admit that the class system exists. -
Dress and Fashion, “Rosista” Style 31
FashionNation: The Politics of Dress and Gender in 19th Century Argentine Journalism (1829-1880) by Susan Hallstead B.A. in Spanish, University of Pittsburgh, 1997 M.A. in Hispanic Literature, University of Pittsburgh, 2005 Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of the Department of Hispanic Languages and Literatures in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy University of Pittsburgh 2005 i UNIVERSITY OF PITTSBURGH ARTS AND SCIENCES This dissertation was presented by Susan Hallstead It was defended on December 12, 2005 and approved by Mabel Moraña, PhD, Professor Gerald Martin, PhD, Professor Jerome Branche, PhD, Associate Professor Susan Andrade, PhD, Associate Professor Dissertation Director: Mabel Moraña, PhD, Professor ii Copyright © by Susan Hallstead 2005 iii TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Introduction 1 2. Forced Traditions, Forged Equality: Dress and Fashion, “Rosista” Style 31 2.1. Entering a New World Order: Of Essence, Appearance and Peinetones 33 2.2. The Brute of all Brutes, the Tiger of all Tigers: Rosas, the Rosista Dress Code and the othering of the Lettered City 66 2.3. Rosas and the Afro-Argentine: The Relationship of Race and Dress in the Rosista Era 92 3. Challenging Barbarism and Waging Wars of Images: Argentina’s Men of Letters find Fashion (1829-1852) 113 3.1. Early Argentine Journalism and National Politics: The Challenges of the Post-Independence Period 118 3.2. Fashion’s Appearance at the Intellectual Round Table: Consumption, Citizenship and the Ideal Unitarist 130 3. 3. The Foundational Parameters of Argentine Nationalism: Fashion, Civilization and Barbarism 183 4. After Caseros: Women Write on Fashion, Nation and Politics 206 4.1. -
2Security Lockdown 7Surviving Semester
THE OUR grotto LADY OF LOURDES ACADEMY MIAMI, FLORIDA VOLUME 50/ISSUE 6 May 2013 www.olla.org/grotto/may C SHOO L’S OUT SECURITY LOCKDOWN SURVIVING SEMESTER SPORTS SUCCESSES Check out the effects of Boston Reminisce over the hIghlights of inside For a HOW TO guide to surviving 2 bombing on the government’s 7the last few months of the school year, 16 each superb sports teams’ victories security policies. check out this month’s issue. from the entire year. peek 2 news | the grotto |may 2013 The State of Our Nation(al Security) KATHRYN MELLINGER These acts of terror have been influenced organizations. by the extremist teachings of an American As far as Dzhokhar goes, he has been A sense of closure has overcome the cleric named Anwar al-Awlaki. assigned multiple public defenders who - nation with the capturing of one of the The fanatic teachings clearly influenced will plead his case in federal court in hopes Boston bombers, Dzhorkhar Tsarnaev. 53% the actions of the terrorists who decided of avoiding the death penalty. Though the suspect has been stabilized, to attack the Boston marathon on Patriot’s According to U.S. News, it is very feel that the govern he is not capable of speaking due to a self Day, after finishing the homemade bombs likely that the attorneys will bargain with inflicted gunshot wound to the neck. early. The bombs were created using prosecutors on the idea that Dzhokhar was ment has not taken In order to gain information regarding pressure cookers in the apartment of not fully aware of his actions and did not enough measures the recent terror attacks, the FBI denied Tamerlan, the older suspect. -
Virginia Woolf's Short Fiction: a Study of Its Relation
VIRGINIA WOOLF'S SHORT FICTION: A STUDY OF ITS RELATION TO THE STORY GENRE; AND AN EXPLICATION OF THE KNOWN STORY CANON by David Roger Tallentire B.Sc, The University of British Columbia, 1963 A THESIS SUBMITTED IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF Master of Arts in the Department of English We accept this thesis as conforming to the required standard. THE UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA April, 1968 In presenting this thesis in partial fulfilment of the requirement for an advanced degree at the University of British Columbia, I agree that the Library shall make it freely available for reference and study. I further agree that permission for extensive copying of this thesis for scholarly purposes may be granted by the Head of my Department or by his representatives. It is understood that copying or publication of this thesis for financial gain shall not be allowed without my written permission. Department of The University of British Columbia Vancouver 8, Canada Date /&, /?6S ii ABSTRACT The short stories of Virginia Woolf have never re• ceived serious scrutiny, critics determinedly maintaining that the novels contain the heart of the matter and that the sto• ries are merely preparatory exercises. Mrs. Woolf, however, provides sufficient evidence that she was "on the track of real discoveries" in the stories, an opinion supported by her Bloomsbury mentors Roger Fry and Lytton Strachey. A careful analysis of her twenty-one known stories suggests that they are indeed important (not merely peripheral to the novels and criticism) and are successful in developing specific techniques and themes germane to her total canon. -
The Politics of Gender and the Visual in Virginia Woolf and Angela Carter
The Politics of Gender and the Visual in Virginia Woolf and Angela Carter Caleb Sivyer Thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy (English Literature) School of English, Communication & Philosophy Cardiff University 2015 Summary This thesis investigates the relationship between gender and the visual in texts by Virginia Woolf and Angela Carter. Drawing on visual studies, gender studies and film theory, I argue that my selected texts present the gendered visual field as dynamic and layered, foregrounding both a masculine economy of vision and the possibility of alternative forms of gendered subjectivity and ways of looking. The Introduction discusses the key methodological frameworks used in this thesis, including Jonathan Crary’s account of the historical construction of vision, the debates around gender, mobility and visuality centred on the figure of the flâneur, and Laura Mulvey’s account of the cinematic male gaze. I argue for the importance of recognising that the field of vision is a site of contestation composed of an interplay of connected gendered looks. Chapter One focuses on the unresolved tensions between different gendered looks in Mrs Dalloway (1925) which take place across a number of spaces and are mediated by a variety of visual frames. Chapter Two turns to Orlando (1928) to explore Woolf’s playful subversion of a masculine visual economy through a protagonist who changes sex and dress. In addition to this vacillation of appearance, I argue that the text’s representations of London in the 1920s, in particular the department store and motor-car, contribute to a proliferation of gendered looks. In turning to The Passion of New Eve (1979), Chapter Three shows how Carter foregrounds the violence involved in the performance of gender, particularly as mediated through the cinema, and further subverts masculine vision by representing gender as a masquerade. -
Information to Users
INFORMATION TO USERS This manuscript has been reproduced from the microfilm master. UMI films the text directly from the original or copy submitted. Thus, some thesis and dissertation copies are in typewriter face, while others may be from any type of computer printer. The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. Broken or indistinct print, colored or poor quality illustrations and photographs, print bleedthrough, substandard margins, and improper alignment can adversely affect reproduction. In the unlikely event that the author did not send UMI a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if unauthorized copyright material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Oversize materials (e.g., maps, drawings, charts) are reproduced by sectioning the original, beginning at the upper left-hand comer and continuing from left to right in equal sections with small overlaps. Each original is also photographed in one exposure and is included in reduced form at the back of the book. Photographs included in the original manuscript have been reproduced xerographically in this copy. Higher quality 6” x 9” black and white photographic prints are available for any photographs or illustrations appearing in this copy for an additional charge. Contact UMI directly to order. UMI A Bell & Howell Information Company 300 North 2keb Road, Ann Aiixjr MI 48106-1346 USA 313/761-4700 800/521-0600 FROM BLOOMERS TO FLAPPERS: THE AMERICAN WOMEN’S DRESS REFORM MOVEMENT, 1840-1920 DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Karen J. -
King Tut's Tomb Discovered • Political Conditions Around Foochow Are Still Unsettled. • Flora Leaves China for US on T
1922 King Tut's tomb discovered Political conditions around Foochow are still unsettled. Flora leaves China for U.S. on the President Wilson in August never to return to China. She is 53. Mary remains in Tungchou, China. She is 40. Willard and Phebe are in Foochow, China. Ellen, Gould, Geraldine, Marjorie and Kathleen are in the U.S. Willard is 57, Ellen- 54, Phebe- 27, Gould- 26, Geraldine- 24, Dorothy- 21, Marjorie- 16, Kathleen- 14. [This typewritten letter, dated January 5, 1922, was written from Tungchou, China by Mary to the home folks. The new school term is beginning and some students are ill while others are still on their way. Mary details her week of social events and Christmas. They will begin building the new school building thanks to the $15,000 from the Russell Sage Foundation. Letter from the collection of Virginia Van Andel.] N.C.A.S. Jan 5, 1922 Dear Home Folks, This is last Sunday‟s letter. I‟ll progress backwards and tell the news. Today is the first day of the new term. We start with six absent. One has had flu and is not yet strong. A second is having a relapse of flu. A third had a slight attack of Diphtheria. A fourth is coming in to get placed before the second semester and was not fully ready. Another went a long way and either is awaiting a boat or trying to get through snow on the mountains. With him comes a new girl. Whether we are two more short depends on whether the girl who was so ill last term gets well to come later or not and whether the girl who had small-pox gets well soon. -
THE GLASS MENAGERIE, by Tennessee Williams, 1944
THE GLASS MENAGERIE, by Tennessee Williams, 1944 SCENE 1 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The Wingfield apartment is in the rear of the building, one of those vast hive-like conglomerations of cellular living-units that flower as warty growths in overcrowded urban centres of lower-middle-class population and are symptomatic of the impulse of this largest and fundamentally enslaved section of American society to avoid fluidity and differentiation and to exist and function as one interfused mass of automatism. The apartment faces an alley and is entered by a fire-escape, a structure whose name is a touch of accidental poetic truth, for all of these huge buildings are always burning with the slow and implacable fires of human desperation. The fire-escape is included in the set - that is, the landing of it and steps descending from it. The scene is memory and is therefore non-realistic. Memory takes a lot of poetic licence. It omits some details; others are exaggerated, according to the emotional value of the articles it touches, for memory is seated predominantly in the heart. The interior is therefore rather dim and poetic. At the rise of the curtain, the audience is faced with the dark, grim rear wall of the Wingfield tenement. This building, which runs parallel to the footlights, is flanked on both sides by dark, narrow alleys which run into murky canyons of tangled clothes-lines, garbage cans, and the sinister lattice-work of neighbouring fire-escapes. It is up and down these alleys that exterior entrances and exits are made, during the play. At the end of Tom's opening commentary, the dark tenement wall slowly reveals (by means of a transparency) the interior of the ground floor Wingfield apartment. -
Humanities 112: the Modern World Literature Study Guide & Assignment Packet
1 Humanities 112: The Modern World Literature Study Guide & Assignment Packet Prof. R. Miller © 1 2 INTERPRETING LITERATURE: FORM & CONTENT How to analyze and interpret literature: In the visual arts there are many formal elements such as composition, line, light and shade, perspective, color, etc. Literature can also be analyzed according to formal elements. What follows is a partial list of literary elements and tips and questions to consider when evaluating a work of literature. Refer to this guide to answer your homework and study questions. Close Reading: Do not stray far from the actual text: avoid jumping to meanings that are not suggested at all in the text. You should be able to substantiate any interpretation with actual “evidence” from the text. Analytical Modes of Evaluating and Interpreting: Never say that a work is “boring,” “good,” “bad,” or “I really like this story,” or “I really hate this story.” These are unsubstantiated, vague statements and do not involve actual analysis. Knee-jerk reactions are not permissible in homework assignments, and you should develop the habit of avoiding them in oral responses as well. Evaluating and interpreting a film (or any cultural text) involves thoughtful and specific description and analysis of the work. You must walk through the process of identifying, describing and assessing all of the works elements as described below. This is not to say that it is incorrect to have a “gut” reaction or overall response to a work. But as a scholar, you should write this down and then determine the various elements that have led you to this response. -
The New Woman Painter in American Literature Jennifer Leigh Moffitt
Florida State University Libraries Electronic Theses, Treatises and Dissertations The Graduate School 2014 Representation and the Modern Female Subject: The New Woman Painter in American Literature Jennifer Leigh Moffitt Follow this and additional works at the FSU Digital Library. For more information, please contact [email protected] FLORIDA STATE UNIVERSITY COLLEGE OF ARTS AND SCIENCES REPRESENTATION AND THE MODERN FEMALE SUBJECT: THE NEW WOMAN PAINTER IN AMERICAN LITERATURE By JENNIFER LEIGH MOFFITT A Dissertation submitted to the Department of English in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Degree Awarded: Fall Semester, 2014 Jennifer Leigh Moffitt defended this dissertation on October 27, 2014. The members of the supervisory committee were: Leigh Edwards Professor Co-Directing Dissertation Paul Outka Professor Co-Directing Dissertation Karen Bearor University Representative Andrew Epstein Committee Member Dennis Moore Committee Member The Graduate School has verified and approved the above-named committee members, and certifies that the dissertation has been approved in accordance with university requirements. ii For Drew, who waited. iii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This dissertation would not have been possible without the unwavering support of my committee, friends, and family. I would like to begin by thanking the members of my committee – Dennis Moore, Andrew Epstein, and Karen Bearor – for their guidance and kindness throughout my graduate career. For my co-directors Paul Outka and Leigh Edwards, I am particularly grateful. They offered much needed wisdom and humor, and were unflagging in their patience and encouragement. Their generous mentorship will never be forgotten. Graduate school would have been a dismal experience without the dear friendships of Catherine Altmaier and Rebecca Lehmann. -
Gcr-1-Spring 1993.Pdf
LITERATURE IS A POWERFUL WAY OF STRUCTURING Ex perience and interpreting it. Stories tend to repeat themselves, mak ing sense of new experience in light of the old. Oedipus, Sleeping Beauty, Ham let.. .to name three characters and fates.. .all underpin our psychic assumptions about life, love, death, ambition, destiny, psychology, gender, the individual, society, and the list goes on. Myth preceded epic preceded drama preceded the novel, each form reflecting changes in how humankind viewed itself. It is through finding new forms that we find new stories, which expand upon and change the old, thus ourselves. Language, with its unusual plasticity, has been fertile ground for transformations. Myriad historical shifts in consciousness have found their way into how stories have been told and why. That’s how we got from Don Quixote to Gertrude Stein. W hat’s next? Certainly evolving consciousness about race and gender, war and peace, glo balism, and our place in nature point to something new in both sub ject matter and form, not to mention in the world. Global City Re view was started to reflect and define how we think of ourselves now and what we will make of the future. In a real sense, we’re open to suggestions, essential or fascinating facts, passionate thinking, post modern frames— all non-patriarchal perspectives are of interest. The Sexual Politics issue, our first, includes poetry, fiction, essays, and an interview. The issue is an inquiry into the social and psycho logical constructions of gender, with an emphasis on feminism, gay and lesbian lives and deaths, the new man, and other liberated iden tities.