K9 MANNERS & MORE INTRODUCTION TO DOG TRAINING STUDENT HANDOUT
OVERVIEW
General Information for Group Classes
Classes Puppy Kindergarten COEDS (Courteous Obedient Educated Dogs) Model Citizens
Equipment
About Rolling Enrollment
Learning Theory: How Dogs Learn
Meeting My Dog’s Needs Physical exercise requirements Mental exercise requirements
Everyday Training Say Please Take Treats Gently – and Wait for It Name Game
Recap How to get started What to bring to class Schedule of classes
GENERAL INFORMATION FOR BASIC GROUP CLASSES
1. Our basic group classes are ongoing. When you have completed the requirements or pre-requisites, you may begin any time that class is offered. Rolling enrollment means that when you are on your 1st week of class, others will be midway, or graduating. 2. Written proof of vaccinations is required. Titer test results are acceptable. 3. Dog must have been in your home 2 weeks before attending a group class. 4. Children must be at least 9 years old to work their dog in class. Younger children are welcome to attend, and there are ways they can participate! We do ask that they be supervised, and for their safety, do not interact with other dogs in class. 5. Children under the age of 16 must be accompanied by a responsible adult. 6. We don’t have any breed exclusions, but no wolf, wolfdog or wolf hybrid will be accepted into classes. 7. If your dog has bitten a person (you, a visitor in your home, stranger in public, vet, tech, groomer, etc.) he is not allowed to begin in a group class. Please see Private Training on our website. 8. Missed classes: • If the training center is closed for an event or a holiday, this is not counted as an absence. Closures are noted on K9 Manners & More of OK facebook page, in our monthly e-newsletter, and on our answering service greeting. We generally close for inclement weather if the Broken Arrow public schools are closed, but not always! When in doubt – call us. • If you miss a class due to you or your dog being ill, you can make that up. Continuity is important to your dog’s training, so we encourage you to come to class consistently. You are allowed to make up 2 missed classes. • In the event of an extended absence due to injury/illness (you or your dog) please discuss with your instructor, so that we can put your remaining classes on hold.
CLASSES
THE PUPPY KINDERGARTEN CLASS Skills and socialization for puppies
Puppy K is your puppy’s head start on learning the social and obedience skills he will need as an adult. In this class, your puppy will learn basic skills like sit, down, wait and stay, walking on leash, leave-it, and coming when called. As a puppy owner, you want to learn about house training, proper chew training, and mouthing and biting that puppies do – and we will teach you! There is also off-leash play time to meet other puppies and people, and learn about social graces.
Requirements: • Puppy age between 10 & 20 weeks when they start class • Puppy has been in your home for 2 weeks before you start class • Puppy has had 2 of the puppy vaccinations for distemper & parvovirus (bordetella vaccine is recommended but not required) • 6 week course; 1 hour class/week, course fee is $100
COEDS (Courteous, Obedient, Educated Dogs) Beginner obedience course
In this 8 week course, you can achieve amazing results as your dog learns some real life skills he will need to be a well-rounded family companion. Solve common behavior problems such as jumping up, and pulling on leash. Learn loose leash walking, coming when called, wait and stay, leave-it, sit politely for petting, settle on your mat, proper dog greetings and more!
Requirements: • Any dog over 20 weeks of age, or • Previously completed Puppy Kindergarten class • Dog has been in your home for 2 weeks before you start class • Dog is current on Rabies, Distemper & Parvovirus vaccines (bordetella vaccine is recommended but not required) • 8 week course; 1 hour class/week, course fee is $120
MODEL CITIZENS Advanced Beginner obedience course
In this 8 week course, your dog will be learning how to behave as a canine good citizen. Loose leash walking will improve as you learn about turns and stops, walking fast and slow, and walking through a crowd with distractions. He will learn to stay in place politely, while other dogs are present. He will even learn to come when called when there are interesting distractions! The Model Citizens course will prepare you and your dog for the AKC® Canine Good Citizen (CGC®) and CGC Advanced (Community Canine) tests. This is a great course for anyone thinking about doing therapy dog work!
Requirements: • Graduation from K9 Manners COEDS class Completion of a beginner obedience class taken elsewhere (at least 6 weeks in duration) • Dog has been in your home for 2 weeks before you start class • Dog is current on Rabies, Distemper & Parvovirus vaccines (bordetella vaccine is recommended but not required) • 8 week course; 1 hour class/week, course fee is $120
EQUIPMENT : Leashes, collars, harnesses
There are lots of options of collars, harnesses and leashes available. We have a few recommendations. In our retail shop (at K9 Manners) we sell only what we personally have used. We sell products made in the USA which meet our standards of humane and effective.
If you are beginning in Puppy Kindergarten, or bringing a COEDS dog that isn’t already pulling on the leash, you should begin with your dog’s “every day” collar. This type of adjustable, easy to clip is our choice for an everyday collar. Our best-selling collar has an awesome return policy – guaranteed even if it gets chewed up! Many sizes, patterns and colors are available.
We would like for you to have a 4 to 6 foot leash, which can be made of webbing, leather, or another fabric – but not chain. Our most popular leashes also carry the return if chewed policy. The handles are comfortably padded and the clip is quite sturdy.
Please note that we do not allow retractable leashes in class.
Many of our beginner students use the front-clip harness. We have seen great success with the anti-pulling front clip harnesses. They are very easy to use, and put no pressure on the dog’s throat. It works with guidance and communication, not force or leverage. Our best seller is available in blue, black and red. Staff is available to help you get the right size & adjustment for your dog.
We do not allow any type of shock collars (e-collars) to be used. We discourage the use of metal collars (pinch/prong collars and choke chains) because there are so many better options available. For more information about this topic, please visit the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (www.avsabonline.org) for their position statement on the use of punishment.
You may also wish to have some type of treat holder. Here is our favorite, which is easy to get into and has a magnetic closure so you don’t have to fumble with a drawstring.
It’s perfectly OK if you don’t know what will work best for your dog. Come to class with what you have, and if your instructor thinks an equipment change is needed, we will try something else.
You will also need a mat or a rug; something washable. It should not be your favorite cuddler-type bed, and it doesn’t need to be as large as your dog when he stretches out! We generally have mats for sale that are just right.
ABOUT ROLLING ENROLLMENT
Our basic classes (Puppy Kindergarten, COEDS, and Model Citizens) are based on Modules. Each week is a different module, which includes the skills needed in a real-life scenario. It’s a fun way to learn all the basics without just going around and around the ring! It may be a practice visit to the vet, or having coffee with friends.
On your first day, the Module for that week may not be #1. That’s OK! The skills are for the most part, concurrent from module to module. When you are new to the class, and learning the skill for the first time, you may be “luring” your dog with a treat to get the behavior, and see that others are not luring with a treat, but are giving the treat for the execution of the behavior. They are rewarding! That’s where you will soon be. Training aids, scaffolds, are removed as the teams become proficient with the skills.
There is always help available. Most classes have 2 instructors, and sometimes split into two groups. Don’t leave class with unanswered questions! We’re here to help.
When you come into the classroom, you will find a seat and set down your mat and your belongings. You can begin rewarding (treating) your dog for settling on his mat as other dogs enter the training room. This is working on impulse control!
LEARNING THEORY
A basic understanding of learning theory will help you better understand how to communicate with your dog.
THE TWO WAYS DOGS LEARN
1. Dogs learn by association (by emotional response).
Human example: We humans learn by association, too. When you meet someone for the first time you come away with an association—positive, negative, or neutral. If you really enjoyed the interaction, you are likely to be happy to see that person again. If you found the person difficult or argumentative, you might get that little pit of dread in your belly when you see him or her again—you have formed a negative association with that person.
Human–dog comparison: Dogs experience the world this way, too, perhaps more strongly than we humans because dogs lack the filter of rational thought. They are constantly forming emotional associations—safe, dangerous, neutral or good for me, bad for me, neutral. These associations inform the decisions dogs make and the reactions they have to various situations and things in their environment.
Dog example: A common example of associative learning in dogs is their reaction to the sight of a food bowl. Pull out the right bowl and the average dog will jump into fits of joy. This is because dogs have come to learn that this particular bowl always predicts mealtime. Food is tasty so we love food bowls. In other words, dogs associate bowls with eating.
The amazing thing is that we can manipulate dogs’ associations to things. For example, new puppies generally find leashes inconsequential; when first shown a 6-foot length of nylon with a clip at the end they have a neutral association to it. But find a way to make a dog associate anything with something he loves and you can teach him to love that, too. How? Clip on the leash and give him treats or take him for a walk. Every time you leash him, either take him for a walk or give him treats until you take the leash back off. Pretty soon the puppy figures out that the leash means fun and, bingo. You have a dog that loves leashes.
The frightening thing is that learning by association also works in reverse. You can teach a dog to hate or fear leashes by repeatedly using them to give corrections or tie him up outside on his own.
What does this mean to us? The implications are huge. Everything you do around your dog influences the associations he makes.
Here is an important example: Say I am walking my dog and I don’t like the way he reacts to seeing another dog. Maybe he just barks in excitement, but I don’t like it. I shout, “No!” and jerk his leash. This happens every time we see a dog. Pretty soon, my dog’s reaction to other dogs is terrible—he barks and growls and lunges and snaps because I have built a negative association in him: Dogs equal pain. In other words, I have taught my dog to dislike or fear other dogs.
This is the main drawback of using punishment—it has unintended side effects. For example, it builds a negative association with the punisher, affecting the bond between person and dog. It is not that punishment doesn’t work—it is that learning by association or emotion always comes along for the ride.
What might I do instead if my dog growls and lunges when he sees another dog? Reverse his negative association with other dogs. Treats are a good way to do this, but my dog might be too upset to take the treats. In another “people” example, if you put a spider right in front of an arachnophobe, she will have a hard time listening to instructions to sit down and stop screaming. But keep the spider twenty feet away, only show it for short periods of time, and distract the phobic person with conversation or chocolate, and things will probably have a better outcome.
The process is the same for dogs who are scared of or upset by something. It is called desensitization and involves the 3 Ds: distance, duration, and distraction. We move the dog farther away from the upsetting object, try to keep the situation brief, and distract with cheerful voices and treats.
Remember, we are not rewarding the dog for his ugly display; he is too upset to control his behavior. We are trying to affect his emotional state so he feels no need to act that way and we can then ask for a different behavior.
2. Dogs learn by consequence (by doing).
Human example: I can tell a school-age child that I will take him out for ice cream when I see him next week to celebrate his good report card. When he eats the ice cream, he understands he is being rewarded for grades he got a week ago, and he got those grades for work he did over several months.
Human–dog comparison: A dog could never understand this—it is way beyond his ability to connect events. Dogs learn by consequence like we do, but for dogs the consequence has to be immediate.
Dog example: Say I lure a dog into a sit with my hand. Then I rummage around for the treat. By the time I deliver the treat five seconds later, the impact is lost because in those five seconds, the dog sneezed, sniffed the ground, and looked left. All of a sudden a treat appeared. As far as the dog is concerned, he got it for looking left. You will eventually teach that dog to sit, but it will take a while. Or you might end up with a dog that sits and looks left as a matter of course.
What does this mean to us? That we need to be precise and quick. Give your dog immediate feedback—let him know right away when he has done something you like. You can use praise, treats, or other dog rewards such as throwing a ball, opening a door, or letting your dog off leash to romp. A dog’s view of the world: So, dogs learn in two ways—by association/emotion and by consequence/doing. And because of these two ways of learning, dogs see the world in two ways: What is safe/good for me vs. what is dangerous/bad and what works vs. what doesn’t.
Safe vs. dangerous. This outlook on life comes from learning by association. When dogs gets punished for peeing on the carpet in front of you, they don’t learn inside/outside—they learn that it is not safe to pee in front of you, but it is safe to pee when you are not there.
Works vs. doesn’t work. This outlook on life comes from learning by consequence. All dogs try staring at the refrigerator as a strategy to get it to open. After a time they give up because it doesn’t work; the fridge never opens. They also try staring at their people at the dinner table. Every once in a while someone gives in and shares a bite. Staring at people while they eat often works, so dogs continue to do it.
What does this mean to us? Dogs don’t do things we dislike to get back at us or be stubborn or naughty. This is a myth. To dogs the world is either safe or dangerous and things either work or they don’t. Right or wrong never enters into it, because dogs do not have the capacity for abstract thought.
Dogs do what is safe and what works. That’s all.
If a dog barks at you to throw the ball and you throw it, rest assured he will do that again. If you ignore the barking he will eventually give up and try something else. He is not trying to be obnoxious; he is just doing what works. If you ask a dog to sit and he doesn’t, he is not being stubborn; you just haven’t trained him well enough yet.
In other words, dogs are dogs, not people. Be patient with your dog and careful about what you pay attention to and what you ignore, and you will soon have a relaxed, content, and well-trained four-legged friend.
MEETING MY DOG’S NEEDS
PHYSICAL & MENTAL EXERCISE
Dogs are a lot like children. If you don’t give them something fun to do, they will make their own fun—and often not in ways you approve of.
Give your dog plenty of physical and mental exercise and you get a happier, healthier, better-behaved dog. Well-exercised dogs bark less, chew less, sleep more, and rest easier if left home alone. They are also much less likely to rummage through the trash or attack the couch cushions.
What about leash walks? Leash walks are great brainteasers because of all the sensory information dogs get from them, but they don’t count as aerobic exercise. Your dog needs to run, swim, or do something else that gets his heart pumping for at least 30 minutes every day.
Workouts for the body. Chasing a ball or Frisbee. Swimming. Playing tug. Active play with other dogs. Off-leash romps or hikes.
Workouts for the brain. Work to eat. Biologically speaking, your dog is not supposed to have a bowl of kibble plunked down in front of him. He is a hunter by nature, meant to work for his keep. Mimic this by serving your dog’s food in a Kong or Peanut. Your dog will spend the first part of the day figuring out how to get at his food and the rest of it recovering from the mental effort. Perfect!
Toys galore. Toys are a great way to engage your dog’s brain. Dogs have distinctly individual toy preferences, depending on the day, time, and situation. Do some detective work and find out what truly tickles your dog.
The best toys have a purpose. They deliver food, present a challenge, squeak, or make themselves interesting in some other way. Some classics to consider: Rope toys, plush toys (with or without squeakers), treat balls, soft rubber toys (vinyl), and hard rubber toys like Kongs and Nyla bones.
Once you have a good selection, develop a toy strategy. Designate a popular toy for use only during alone time, like when you need to leave your dog in his crate, confinement area, or a spare room. Then, rotate the other toys daily to keep the novelty factor high.
We have several interesting food and chew toys available in our shop! And they are all made in the USA!
PHYSICAL AND MENTAL EXERCISE: A PLAN
To make sure your dog gets the exercise and stimulation he needs, create a plan. Think about your dog’s daily routine and choose what type of exercise (for the body and brain) your dog will receive, who will be in charge of making it happen and for how long.
Here are some people whose help you may be able to enlist: Partner, family members, friends & neighbors Dog walker Dog daycare
Types of activities: Leash Walks Puppy Play Time Fetch Visits to Puppy Daycare Toy Dissection Stuffed Kong Tug Chewing bones, bully sticks, etc. Tricky Treat Ball Training Games Swimming Other:______
AM Mon. Tues. Weds. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun. What:
Who:
For How Long?
AM Mon. Tues. Weds. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun. PM
What:
Who:
For How Long?
TRAINING EVERY DAY
“Say Please” Say Please, is a training strategy that uses everyday situations to reward good manners and practice training without setting aside hours of special practice time.
Applying the principle of Say Please is simple. Whatever your dog wants, he has to work for. From now on, doors are not magically opened; balls are not simply thrown. For those, and other privileges you choose, ask your dog to say please by sitting, doing a down, spinning or performing whatever trick he knows.
With this strategy, you and your dog both win. You get a well-trained, polite dog and he gets what he wants (his ball thrown, his leash taken off at the park). What’s more, you have laid the foundation for an enjoyable relationship for a lifetime.
How to use it. Step 1. Make a list of the top things your dog wants and enjoys.
Step 2. Vow to yourself not to give those things away without a little manners practice. See them all as training opportunities and ask your dog for an obedience behavior or trick you want strengthened.
Step 3. Give him what he wants as a reward for that behavior.
Step 4. Repeat, every day, everywhere.
When to use it. Before throwing a ball, Frisbee, rope-toy, etc. Before giving him a toy. Before putting the food bowl down. Before handing over a treat or chewie. Before opening a door. Before putting on a leash to go for a walk. Before taking off a leash at the park or beach. Before hopping into or out of the car. Before allowing your dog onto the couch with you.
Training Tip: Be patient. Practicing behaviors in new situations can be a challenge. For instance, a sit at the door when your dog is eager to get out for a walk is harder than a sit in front of you.
Make your dog sit for his supper… and more! Make your list of Say Please opportunities and post on the fridge as a reminder to yourself to practice training in everyday situations.
My dog loves to…
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TAKING TREATS GENTLY
There really is no reason for your dog to put his teeth on your fingers to get a treat. He should not snap his jaws shut alligator-style, nor should he open his mouth wide enough to swallow your arm!
Whether or not you have children in your home, you must teach your dog how to take treats gently. Rule #1: Don’t feed your fingers to the dog!
That means, don’t hold a treat between your thumb and index finger, and present it in a tantalizing way to your dog.
Instead, open your hand by stretching out your fingers, and place the treat on your palm. Cover it with your thumb, and close your fingers. When you present the treat to your dog, stretch out your fingers and let your dog nuzzle into your palm from the pinkie- side. Lift up your thumb and the treat will slide in!
Rule #2: Play the Elevator Game – Wait for it!
When a treat is presented, this is not your dog’s opportunity to jump up to get it. Only feed the treat when his paws are on the floor. A great way to practice this is to have your dog seated in front of you, and hold your hand (with the treat in it) as high as your shoulder. Gradually lower and raise the treat, lowering it toward your dog as long as his rear is on the ground, raise it if he jumps up. This sort of purposeful teasing will help your dog gain the self-control to not grab treats.
PLAY THE NAME GAME
Some dogs think their name is “No No Bad Dog” because they have been conditioned to hearing us scolding them. We want our dogs to understand their name, and think that their name is the most wonderful word they’ve ever heard. And when you say it, good things will follow. The Name Game conditions your dog to pay attention to you when you say his name. With practice, this attention becomes automatic; when he hears his name, he thinks TREAT!
Start by saying your dog’s name, and as soon as he turns slightly to look your way, say “Yes!” and give him a really yummy treat. While he eats the treat praise him some more. The first few times you may need to use the treat as a lure to draw his head toward you.
After the first few times, when you say his name he should automatically turn toward you. Practice, practice, practice! 100 error-free responses during the first week will be a great start. If he doesn’t look toward you when you say his name, DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT, make a funny noise (kissing sound, clicking sound, etc).
• Don’t repeat his name. • Don’t say it louder, or harshly. • Don’t use his name a part of a reprimand, or scolding.
RECAP:
Complete the Registration form and email it to us at: [email protected] As you complete the registration form, take a few minutes to think about your goals for attending class. Our goal is to help you succeed. Knowing what you would like to accomplish helps us refine curriculum. When we receive your registration, we will email you back to confirm your class reservation, or advise you if we need additional information. Payment for class can be made by cash, check, or credit/debit card.
What to bring to class:
A copy of your dog’s vaccination record (or you may email them to us with your registration form) A plain, nylon or leather “every day” collar (no choke or pronged collars) A 4-6 foot leather or nylon lead (no longer or retractable leashes A variety of your dog’s favorite soft treats, cut up into very small pieces, in a treat holder you can hook onto your clothes A mat or rug for your dog A hungry dog
CLASS SCHEDULES
Puppy Kindergarten COEDS Model Citizens
For puppies between 10 & 20 For puppies older than 20 For puppies older than 20 weeks weeks, and all other dogs weeks, and all other dogs Have completed a previous course or been approved 6 weeks 8 weeks 8 weeks You may make up 1 missed 10 weeks max to use all 10 weeks max to use all class classes classes Course fee: Course fee: Course fee: $100 $120 $120
Class times: Class times: Class times: Mondays 7pm Mondays 6pm Tuesdays 6pm Wednesdays 6pm Wednesdays 7pm Wednesdays 11am Thursdays 10am Thursdays 11am Saturdays 11am Saturdays 10am
REGISTRATION FORM
K9 Manners & More 1000 E Memphis, Broken Arrow, OK 74012 (918) 451-8446 www.k9-manners.com
Your Name
Address
City/State/Zip Email Address:
Best phone #s to reach you In Case of Emergency contact Name & #
Dog’s Name Breed
Dog’s date of birth Sex Spayed/Neutered?
Name of your dog’s Veterinarian
Registering for: Date you would like to start:
___ Puppy K _____ COEDS _____ Other (write in) What are your goals for bringing your dog to K9 Manners?
Has your dog bitten another dog or harmed another To the best of my knowledge, my dog has not bitten any animal? If so, please describe the circumstances on the person. (Applies to dogs over 16 weeks of age) reverse side. Please initial: ______Where did you hear about K9 Manners?
May we use photos of you/your dog on our website or Would you like to sign up for the K9 Connection, our social media? monthly e-newsletter sent to your email? YES NO YES NO
Terms: Payment is due the day of your first class or lesson. No refunds after you have attended your first class. If, in the opinion of the instructor, the dog should not be in a group class, the remainder of the class fee will be applied to behavior consultation.
You will be required to present proof that your dog is current on his vaccinations at your first class or lesson. Please get this information from your veterinarian BEFORE you come to the Training Center – and bring it with you!
Directions: K9 Manners & More training center is at 1000 E Memphis, Broken Arrow, OK 74012. This is on the northeast corner of Lynn Lane & Memphis. From the Broken Arrow Expressway (highway 51) take the Lynn Lane exit and go south 2 miles. Cross the railroad tracks just south of 81st street and turn left. FYI: Lynn Lane is also called 177th, 9th and 23rd street
I, the undersigned (client) owner/handler of the dog described above do hereby agree that Canine Manners, Inc. (K9 Manners & More) and all its employees and agents will not be liable for any damage or loss resulting from failure of the dog to respond to any cues or behaviors taught by Canine Manners, Inc. or resulting from counseling and advice supplied to the owners/handlers of the dog. The dog’s behavior is now and in the future solely the responsibility of the owners/handlers (client) of the dog. Should any behavior on the dog’s part now or in the future result in damage to the property, owners, or person or property of some third party, owner/handler (client) agrees to assume full responsibility for any and all such damage, and to release and hold harmless Canine Manners, Inc. (K9 Manners & More) Mary Green, CPDT-KA, president, and its officers, employees and instructors thereof, from any and all obligation to pay such damage to owner/handler (client) or third party. All dogs are trained or otherwise handled or cared for by owner/handler who receives instruction from Canine Manners, Inc. and all its employees and agents without any liability whatsoever against Canine Manners, Inc or any Canine Manners, Inc employee or agent for loss, damage from disease, death, running away, theft, fire, injury to or from persons, other dogs, or property, or by any other causes.
______Signature Date