A Day in the Life of a Rickshaw Driver, Summer Cruises in Tokyo, and Who Is the Greatest Japanese Person Ever?

Home , Fuerza Bruta, Kazuyoshi Miura, Ponyo, Summer Sonic Festival

AUGUST 2017

Japan’s number one English language magazine

CRAVING AN ISLAND GETAWAY? IT'S CLOSER THAN YOU THINK...

PLUS: A Day in the Life of a Rickshaw Driver, Summer Cruises in Tokyo, and Who is the Greatest Japanese Person Ever?

20 14 23 28 AUGUST 2017 AUGUST

radar in-depth 30 HOW "ASIAN BOSS" IS EXPLODING CULTURAL STEREOTYPES THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS COFFEE-BREAK READS And getting Tokyoites to open up. 8 AREA GUIDE: KURAMAE 20 SEEKING WHITE SAND How this Edo period neighborhood has sus- Craving an island getaway? Here are three 32 WHO IS THE GREATEST JAPANESE tained its relevance through craftsmanship. destinations in Japan that should be on the PERSON EVER? list of “Asia’s best beaches.” The results are in: we count down the top 15. 10 STYLE Get the vacation look with chic items for 23 THAT OUTDOOR IZAKAYA FEELING beach getaways and summer sundowners. Street-pub dining is the best way to enjoy Tokyo’s balmy summer nights. Create your guide 12 TRENDS own balcony izakaya dinner with these four CULTURE ROUNDUP Rooftops, pools, cocktails and beers: find simple traditional recipes. 37 ART & EVENTS your perfect outdoor drinks spot. Yokohama Triennale, Arcimboldo, and 26 FIVE UNIQUE SUMMER CRUISES stretching the bounds of possibility. 14 TRAVEL Free your mind from the hectic city by Meet some of Japan's top artisans in one of setting sail on Tokyo’s waterways. 40 AGENDA the world's most famous industrial regions. Awaodori, samba, ghosts, and the all-night 28 A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A concert of Sonic Mania. 18 THE CONCIERGE RICKSHAW DRIVER Editor's picks from our roundup of top res- We chat with a veteran "shafu" about the 42 SOCIETY taurants, salons, and services in the city. best, worst, and weirdest parts of the job. Tokyo's longest-running social column. AUGUST 2017

Publisher ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

President Takanobu Ushiyama

Executive Producer Naoya Takahashi

Editor in Chief Annemarie Luck Senior Editors Alec Jordan Lisa Wallin

Creative Director Liam Ramshaw

Features Writer Matthew Hernon

Contributors Vivian Morelli Bill Hersey Bunny Bissoux

Sales Director Takaaki Murai Sales Executives Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Ayane Sugawara Azusa Yoshida

Marketing Director Jessica Yumi Idomoto

Media Consultant Mary Rudow Media Producers Claudia Sun Yuda Chou

Cover photo by Yumi Idomoto

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970

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Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

4 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER @bapawn: I have to admit, after reading Matthew genki even when he’s running tourists around Asakusa Hernon’s survey of the greatest Japanese people in for hours on end! I really enjoyed reading about him history [page 32], I was truly surprised by the winner. [page 28].

@mizrama: I think everyone in the office was. It’s @mizrama: That is one of Japan’s charms, isn’t it. The always refreshing when people don’t just vote for the ability to stay, or at least appear, genki no matter what usual suspects. Who would you nominate? kind of customer you’re dealing with.

@bapawn: Probably someone like Tokugawa, who @bapawn: And if that’s one standard for greatness, ended up truly shaping the direction of Japanese history, I think that there need to be a lot more Number Ones or Murasaki Shikibu, the author of The Tale of Genji. handed out! Depending on whom you ask, it’s one of the first novels in history. But I might be a little old-fashioned. @mizrama: Absolutely! When I visited Tokashiki Island [page 20], I was so bowled over by the warmth of the @mizrama: Well, it makes sense that people look to the guesthouse owner. In the first hour we were there, she past and to dramatic historical events for this kind of basically told us her life story, and by the time we left, I subject. But there are also so many unsung heroes who felt almost like part of her family. deserve a mention. In this month’s Niigata travel feature [page 14], for example, we met an 85-year-old craftsman who has been working as a blacksmith since he was @bapawn: Did that end up swaying your vote for best 15. He is undoubtedly one of Japan’s most dedicated beach in Japan? artisans. @mizrama: I think it might have swayed my vote for @bapawn: Or the rickshaw driver who manages to stay best beach in the world!

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6 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... Poolside cocktails and rooftop beer gardens, a crafty neighborhood guide, and a journey to Niigata to meet some of Japan's top metalworking artisans.

TOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDERWEEKENDER || AUGUSTAUGUST 2017 | 7 AREA GUIDE CRAFT A STRATEGY FOR KURAMAE Words and photographs by Luca Eandi

This Edo period neighborhood on the Sumida River made its name as a storage site for rice but has sustained relevance into the present through craftsmanship

AGAINST THE GRAIN Located on the Sumida River, Kuramae was once a hub for rice granaries, and that’s where it gets its name – kura is “storage houses” and mae is “in front of.” A couple centu- ries ago, rice was a currency, so Kuramae was a banking district of sorts. As rice downshifted to a commodity and distribution centers disseminated, artisans and craftsmen moved into the neighborhood, taking over warehouses and turning them into workspaces and shops. The proximity to the river still makes this area highly attractive, as in-town- ers relish the opportunity to stroll or jog along the Sumida River Terrace and enjoy the open space. Kuramae Shrine, established at the nexus of the neighborhood’s economic boom in 1694, is also a hallowed landmark.

SHE’S CRAFTY There’s a whole slew of showrooms to admire the best that Kuramae has to offer in the way of crafts and artisanal products. Yuichiro Murakami’s shop, M+, deals in leather goods, a trade he spent years in Italy learning and whose mastery is manifested in a variety of beautiful bags, wallets and func- tional accessories. Kakimori is a stationery store that carries the tools needed to keep the art of letter-writing alive and well. For fabrics, Maito ex- clusively sells products dyed using the kusaki-zome technique – extracting liquids from flowers, roots and leaves. Mokuba specializes in ribbons and offers endless options for wrapping gifts in style. For trendy homewares look for Koncent, curated by renowned design consulting group, H Concept.

8 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER POUR SOME SUGAR ON ME No reputable Tokyo neighborhood is complete without its share of coffee shops and intimate cafés, and Kuramae has both in heaps. Camera has good coffee and food, as well as a nice showroom of leather goods to peruse while you wait. Sol’s Coffee also does double duty, operating out of the Koncent homewares store. Square Café, Coffee Nova and Splendor Coffee round out the list of the neighborhood’s notable roasted bean breweries. For sweets, you won’t be let down by Dandelion Chocolate Factory & Café, a recent San Francisco transplant dealing in boutique chocolate, cookies and even booze. For more traditional Japanese confectioner- ies, Eikyudo has a variety of wagashi sweets they’ve been selling since 1887.

ALL NIGHT THING TOYS IN THE ATTIC From grabbing a quick lunch to settling in In addition to crafts, Kuramae is also home for dinner all the way to downing late-night to a number of notable toy stores. Yoshichi drinks, Kuramae has you covered. Genraku Kimura has a variety of traditional kites, hand Sohonten is a good ramen spot, specializ- fans and wooden kokeshi dolls. Yamagata and ing in the tonkotsu variety. For a sandwich, Isobe Mitsuru are both stocked to the gills McLean Old Burger Shack serves up with vintage Super Robots, model trains and satisfying meaty fare. Further south towards toy cars. Gun Mall has almost-too-realistic Asakusabashi, Hapa is the rare Tokyo restau- replicas of firearms and all-too-real airsoft rant that caters to the gluten-free crowd with weapons for cosplayers and enthusiasts generous portions of celiac-friendly pasta and alike. Mainstays Bandai and Epoch have their soba noodles. Elegant Cielo y Rio lets you headquarters in the neighborhood as well. On dine with a great view of the river on multi- the decorating side, Saiga and Kishi’s Party ple levels. If you want to make it an all-night- Store offers banners, balloons and ornaments er, Nui Hostel and Bar Lounge has a great to suit any special occasion and holiday, while bar on the ground level, and after you’ve had Hanabiya and Matsuki will supply festive and one too many, you can go upstairs and sleep colorful ordnance for summertime fireworks. it off in one of their comfortable beds.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST 2017 | 9 STYLE

CHLOÉ SANDALS Reminiscent of traditional Japanese geta, these Chloé slides would not look out of place paired with a yukata to hit those summer fireworks festivals. The satin crossover straps are printed with a vibrant mix of ecru, orange and pink florals apparently inspired by the brand’s founder Gaby Aghion’s birthplace of Egypt. Wear them with jeans, mini and maxi skirts – and of course, your yukata! chloe.com

THE Vacation LOOK

CHIC STYLE FOR BEACH GETAWAYS AND SUMMER SUNDOWNERS

Compiled by Vivian Morelli

SELF-PORTRAIT DRESS In the August sweltering heat and humidity, it’s tempting to just give up on making an effort to dress up and instead reach out for whatever item in your wardrobe is lightest and most comfortable. This dress offers a pretty good solution to your summer woes: it’s airy, stylish and easy to just slip on. The delicate floral lace top (with partial lining at the top) is flirty and playful, and the poplin mini skirt even has pockets for a more casual vibe. Pair it with flats to balance out the short length. self-portrait-studio.com PRADA BACKPACK August equals holidays, and for trips to the beach or overseas getaways, a backpack is an essential accessory to carry all your stuff. This Prada number is adorned with the label’s signature colorful robots. The padded mesh back and adjustable shoulder straps make it comfortable and practical. Even if you’re not going anywhere on vacation, you’ll be able to use this bag for the gym or even for your daily commute to work – yes, even paired with a suit, as it’s Prada. prada.com

MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN T-SHIRT McQ, the streetwear division of the brand created by the late Alexander McQueen, features the same rebellious and fun items, but at a more affordable price point. This particular number is a fun twist on the classic striped T-shirt, with irregular patterns and a hot pink swallow-skull appliqué. The pattern is in fact a black and white photocopy of folded fabric, which makes for a good summer party conversation starter. mcq.com

ADIDAS ORIGINALS SNEAKERS We love, love, love the ubiquitous Stan Smith sneakers, which have been around since the 70s and have grown to become an iconic shoe style. While everyone these days is wearing a version or another of Stan Smiths, you can stand out of the pack with this mint-green pair, which is HEIDI KLEIN perfectly refreshing for summer. Pair them with jeans and a simple white SWIMSUIT T-shirt for an effortless yet stylish look. adidas.com Beach season is not over yet, so take advantage of the mid-summer sales to pick up new swimwear. Whether you hit the beaches surrounding Tokyo or travel to a more exotic locale [see page 20], this Burgundy one-piece suit is all you need to pack. We like the flattering bandeau shape and ruched stretched fabric, which will smooth everything out for a streamlined silhouette. The suit comes with optional halter straps for added support. heidiklein.com TRENDS

ROOFTOPS, POOLS, COCKTAILS & BEERS FIND YOUR PERFECT OUTDOOR DRINKS SPOT Compiled by Annemarie Luck THE “O” LOUNGE

WHAT’S THE APPEAL? Surround- ed by a Japanese garden, the pool at the Hotel New Otani is the largest outdoor hotel pool in Tokyo. Known as Garden Pool by day, this urban oasis transforms into The “O” Lounge after sunset, complete with decorative lights, free- flowing drinks, and music by top DJs. WHAT’S THE DEAL? The night pool is open Monday to Saturday until Septem- ber 17 (also open on Sunday, August 13 and September 17) from 6pm to 10pm (last admission 9pm). Hotel guests pay ¥2,000 (¥1,000 for children); visitors pay ¥8,000 on weekdays, and ¥10,000 on weekends. ANYTHING ELSE? If you want to stay the night, check out Hotel New Otani’s “Urban Resort Summer 2017” summer accommodation plans. More info at www.newotani.co.jp/en/ tokyo/summer

12 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER THE ROOFTOP BBQ BEER GARDEN KICHIJOJI

WHAT’S THE APPEAL? Inspired by the surf town of Montauk, just outside New York City, this rooftop barbecue beer garden provides a laid-back atmosphere with a menu of freshly grilled seafood and steak. WHAT’S THE DEAL? Open from 5pm-11pm until October 1 on Kichijoji’s Parco rooftop, the beer garden can hold 350 people, and has three surf-and-turf course menus: premium (¥5,000), standard (¥4,000), and light (¥3,500). All courses include an all-you- can-drink menu (for two hours) featuring draft beer, cocktails, soft drinks and more. ANYTHING ELSE? If you’re closer to Ikebukuro, The Rooftop also has a branch atop Lumine Ikebukuro. More info at the-rooftop.jp

SHOWA-ERA LUGAR HA AMOR BEER GARDEN WHAT’S THE APPEAL? Held WHAT’S THE APPEAL? This at Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s spacious luxury rooftop beer garden offers tasty outdoor Chapel Garden, this sum- brews, superb night-city views, and a mer beer garden is themed around selection of comfy sofa beds (including Japan’s Showa era – a period that’s cozy ones made for couples). currently experiencing a bit of a WHAT’S THE DEAL? Open until renaissance in Japan. Feel the good September 30 on the rooftop of Machida old times from this era at this retro Modi department store, Lugar Ha event which will exude the ambi- Amor has three different course menu ence of 50s and 60s Japan, and feature paper lanterns, draft beer, and uchiwa (Japanese options: midnight (¥3,000), standard paper fans). (¥4,500), and VIP (¥5,000). WHAT’S THE DEAL? Open until August 31 from 5pm-9pm, an evening here ANYTHING ELSE? Aside from re- includes popular music from the era as well as Showa-inspired snacks and free-flowing laxing music, entertainment is provided beverages such as highballs, beer, Hoppy, and shochu cocktails – all for just ¥6,000. by way of a gigantic TV screen that you ANYTHING ELSE? Reservations are required three days in advance, and be sure to can rent for birthday message videos, check the website for the specific dates it’s open. marriage proposals, and so on. More info at hyperurl.co/TWshowabeer More info at www.lugar-ha-amor.com

TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST 2017 | 13 TRAVEL SANJO AND TSUBAME: FORGED BY FIRE Words by Lisa Wallin, photos by Chris Mollison

Meet some of Japan's top artisans and try your hand at metalworking in one of the most famous industrial regions in the world

e arrived just in time to catch a glimpse of the sweat, blood, and tears that go into making the high quality products Ja- Wpan is known for worldwide. Just a two-hour shinkansen trip from Tokyo, Niigata's Sanjo and Tsubame cities – which are technically two separate municipalities, but are often branded as one – are famous for their metalworking, with the region's artisans being particularly known for their innovation and dedication to their craft. The region's industry can be traced back to humble beginnings, when only a few lone craftsmen made wakugi (a Japanese-style nail) during the Edo period, and recently there's been a move to connect the artisans directly to their customers through factory tours and events. The idea is that through witnessing the labor-intensive process behind crafted items, customers can gain an understanding into their creation.

SANJO: HEAVY METAL AND BACH We decided to try out craftsman life for ourselves at Sanjo Blacksmith Training Hall, a facility that opened in 2005 with the aim of keeping traditional techniques alive. It also Next, we headed over to Suwada Black- offers metalworking lessons to smith Works, where their open factory featured laymen. With our hearts set on large windows and zoomable TV screens which making a letter opener from a allowed us to get a closer look at what was going nail, we set to work. The fire on behind the glass. One of the craftsmen on site, was blazing hot, the tools were Hideo Kobayashi, is 85 and has been working in heavy, and our aim was off. the industry since he was 15. He listens to Bach Our teacher, craftsman Takashi as he works. Though many like him are veterans, Matsuhira, gave a helping hand there are increasing numbers of younger people which was simultaneously joining their ranks. awe-inspiring and demoraliz- Starving after our not-so-hard work, we ing. He hammered everything headed to Chinese restaurant Taikanro for some out in mere seconds, while it typical Sanjo soul food: curry ramen. The spicy, took us several long minutes. thin soup was served with thick-cut fries lurking With his guidance, we made a among the noodles – an unexpected but not bad katana-shaped letter opener that combination. Afterwards, we stopped by Kitaimo- was as beautiful as it was sharp. gawa terraced rice fields to take in the stunning

14 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER [ PROMOTION ]

MORE THINGS HE LISTENS TO DO

TO BACH Steel yourselves – there's AS HE more to Sanjo and Tsubame than just metal WORKS 1. MEET SOME MISO Perfect for foodies, Echigo Miso does tours of their miso-making process in an Edo period building. www.echigomiso.co.jp

2. WHITTLE IN SOME WOODWORK Marunao is a company now in its third generation – they started with decorative adornments for shrines and temples, moved to tools for tradesmen, and they now focus on chopsticks. www.marunao.com

3. SHOP 'TIL YOU DROP You’ll find wares made by all the manufacturers we’ve mentioned and dozens more at the Tsubame- sanjo Regional Promotional Center, a mecca for all things locally (literally "back fat") ramen, our last stop for the produced. day was Gyokusendo, famed worldwide for its www.tsjiba.or.jp/en/shopping hand-hammered copper kettles. While many machine-made products are at their prime when 4. DINE LIKE A NOBEL a customer receives them, copperware becomes LAUREATE more beautiful starting the moment the custom- Only a few can nab a coveted seat er lays their hands on it. The lustre continues to at the annual Nobel Prize Banquet, develop as it's used over generations. In a rustic, but restaurant Messepia offers 100-year-old house-cum-workshop, we watched diners the chance to at least enjoy a handful of artisans rhythmically beat sheets of a meal with the same prestigious copper into shape. As one artisan melted some cutlery used in Stockholm. (Located silver in a fire, we took a moment to appreciate the inside the Tsubamesanjo Regional view over the steps of green while sipping on skill, time and dedication required for these beau- Promotional Center, see above.) delicious fresh mountain spring water – straight tiful products we choose to place in our homes. from the source. We settled in for the night at a delightfully secluded – and we mean secluded – ryokan perched next to the Sumon River, called Rankei- so. This roughly 100-year-old inn would fit seamlessly into a Ghibli movie. There's nothing like drifting off to sleep to the sweet sound of silence...

TSUBAME: KNIVES AND COPPER Starting the day at Tojiro Co., Ltd, we learned that craftsmen here spend over 10 years per- fecting their knife-making skills. Some blades are the sole responsibility of one lone artisan and it takes them 30 to 45 days to make one knife. The final touch is the name of the company hand engraved into the blade – just like sword makers did back in the day – leaving a distinctive style so that the knife can be traced back to the person who made it. After tucking into lunch at Koushu- hanten, a popular local joint serving seabura [ PROMOTION ] DISCOVER NIIGATA IN TOKYO If you can’t make it all the way to Sanjo- Tsubame and surrounds just yet, then head to the Tabisuru Shintora Market at Toranomon Hills to join a workshop and shop for Japan- made crafts from Niigata

romoting local caught your fancy, you can get regions from across a glimpse of the city’s famous the nation, Tabisuru metalwork right here in Tokyo. Shintora Market Drop by the Sanjo Blacksmith is a new ongoing Training Hall exhibition at Ta- Pevent outside Toranomon Hills bisuru Shintora Market to learn that opened earlier this year. The about the area’s traditional tech- current theme, named Summer niques. The exhibit is located Breeze, features five cities from inside a small black truck and Niigata touting their wares and is open every weekend until Sep- local specialties. tember 10. If our metalworking expe- For those who would like rience at Sanjo’s Blacksmith something a little more hands- Training Hall (see previous page) on, the market hosts regular

workshops in a wide variety of disciplines. So far, visitors have experienced knife-sharpening tutorials, making chopstick rests in the shape of copper leaves, wagashi-making and more. (Check the website for updates on upcoming workshops: www.tabisuru-market.jp). Finally, if you’re itching to get your hands on some of the gorgeous crafts and similar items we focused on in our Sanjo-Tsubame travel feature, but you don’t have the time to go visit firsthand, the Tabisuru store serves as the perfect one-stop shop, offering both traditional and modern high quality crafts from Niigata. Browse their extensive selection of homewares, kitchen tools, and fashion accessories and delight in being surrounded by items crafted with love and care.

16 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER 5 MUST-BUYS AT TABISURU SHINTORA MARKET HERE ARE SOME OF OUR CLUTCH BAG FROM FAVORITE ITEMS ON TOKAMACHI OFFER FROM DIFFERENT Tokamachi is renowned nationwide for CITIES AROUND NIIGATA its textile industry, and especially for its kimono. To celebrate this tradition, this compact clutch is made with silk kimono fabric. Each bag is a one-of-a- kind individually made item, so designs using the same fabric will differ slightly. The simple floral design gives a modern NAIL CLIPPERS FROM SANJO touch to this traditional craft. Yufuan clutch bag, ¥7,201 Once you try these, you’ll never go back to cheap, hundred yen shop snippers ever again. The differences are many, but one key point is the seamless fit of the blades when they come together. This creates a clean cut that doesn’t tear your nails apart and eliminates the need to file them. This kind of perfection can only be achieved by the keen eye and steady hand of an TUMBLER FROM TSUBAME experienced master craftsman. For those keen on seeing the step-by-step process Nothing cools you off in summer like a of making these, pop by Suwada’s open frosty cold beverage, and what better factory (see page 14) to witness artisans way to keep it ice cold than in a copper honing their craft. tumbler? Copper is superior at keeping Suwada nail clippers, ¥7,020 its contents’ temperature stable, keeping drinks cool for up to 15 minutes longer than conventional vessels made HAT FROM MURAKAMI from glass. Skilled artisans hammer Shinafu, or linden weaving, is an these wares out by hand, following ancient craft that remains to this day. a time old tradition that has lasted Usually made with the bark of Shinano- through the ages. On top of that, this ki (Japanese linden) or Obabodaiju, an company has won multiple awards indigenous tree species to Japan, fiber for its modern designs as well as the strips are weaved into home linens, longevity of its products. storage bags and accessories. The Shinkoudo Tumbler (350ml), ¥6,480 process from harvest to usable strips of fiber is long and arduous, taking several months to complete. However, the inimitable nature of the supple and pliable bark, as well as how it feels good to the touch will guarantee this craft will continue. This hat is a prime exam- STEAMER FROM NAGAOKA ple of the dedication of the artisans who practice this historic craft. This rounded, wappa-style steamer is Uestu Shinafu hat, ¥43,200 made using the same method as it was during the Edo period, but is just as useful – if not more so – as it was 185 years ago. The whole steamer, including the lacing keeping it together, is made with wood, so the entire thing is microwaveable. The set includes a lid and stand (made with southern Japanese hemlock), the main body (Japanese cypress), a drain (bamboo) and the main body (Japanese cypress) which is laced together with sakura bark strips. The 5-sun size is the perfect size for one to two people. Adachi Shigehisa Shoten steamer, ¥5,940

TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST 2017 | 17 Looking for a great place to eat, shop, sleep or play in Tokyo? Welcome to Weekender's roundup of recommended restaurants, hotels, stores, salons and more. Here, we share this month's editor's picks, but for the full lineup – as well as reader discounts and special offers – simply head to www.tokyoweekender.com/the-concierge

Elana Jade Club 360 n need of some summer pampering? Elana Jade offers a range lub 360 is Tokyo’s premier fitness and rehabilitation of deluxe beauty treatments that will have you looking beautiful center, offering personal training, physiotherapy, sports from head to toe. All products used in our organic skincare massage, exercise classes, boxing and various classes for lines are delivered by internationally trained and experienced children. Programs are tailored to suit you, and all train- Itherapists. Special offer: Add a 30-minute massage to one of our Cers are highly qualified. Special offer: Get in shape this summer 60-minute facials for free (value ¥5,000), valid until August 31. – mention Tokyo Weekender and get your first personal training session for only ¥5,400. HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | www.club360.jp 03-6434-9667 B1 Cma3 Building, 3-1-35 Motoazabu, Minato-ku HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE EDITORS CHOICE

www.elanajade.com 03-6453-9319 4F NS Azabu Juban Building, 3-6-2 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku HOTELS | EDITORS CHOICE ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS CHOICE ABOUT

Owl Café Search

apan is famed for its wide variety of animal cafés, with owl cafés being one of the latest to join the lineup. This Jnew website provides all the information you need on where to find one of these feathery creatures to pet while sipping on a cuppa. Launching their English site this month, Owl Café Search lets you search by area, and includes details such as price, opening hours, and contact info for each café listed.

www.owlcafe-search.com

18 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Owl Café Search

ONE PERFECT DAY If all you need to be happy is sun, sea and (white) sand, then we've got three beach destinations in Japan that will make this your most contented summer yet. Plus: what it's like to be a rickshaw driver, and who is the greatest Japanese person ever? SEEKING WHITE

WordsSAND and photos by Annemarie Luck Craving an island escape? Here are three destinations in Japan that should be on the list of “Asia’s best beaches”

apan is not revered for its beaches. A quick Google search for “best beaches in Asia” will testify to this. And a not-so-quick train journey to Zushi will only emphasize the point – at least, if white sand and turquoise ocean is what you’re after. Yet after a few vacations spent hunting down that dream island beach Jexperience (I’ve tried Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam and the Philippines), I surprisingly ended up finding it right here in Japan. From one utopian day on Okinawa’s Tokashiki Island to one Golden Week on the Izu Peninsula, here are my three favorite beach escapes in Japan.

TOKASHIKI ISLAND When the ferry from Naha dropped us off at the island’s port, the sky was overcast and I began to wonder if the decision to visit Okinawa out of season was such a wise one after all. On the plus side, we told ourselves, there were hardly any fellow tourists so we would have the beaches to ourselves – even if it rained. The hotel shuttle bus whisked us through winding, hilly roads and lush vegetation, past grazing goats and a spectacular bird’s-eye view of IF YOU GET STUCK IN NAHA… There’s plenty a tale of typhoons causing the ferry to be delayed or cancelled. Here’s how to keep yourself busy if you can’t leave Naha’s Tomari Port

VISIT SHURI CASTLE Although this UNE- SCO World Heritage Site was destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa in 1945, it was restored in 1992 and now serves as a symbol of the once prosperous Ryukyu Kingdom. oki-park.jp/shurijo/en

DINE AT ASHIBIUNA Near to Shuri Castle, this is a traditional Okinawan restaurant. For AND THEN, AS IF IT WERE JUST DYING TO under ¥1,000 you can enjoy soba served SHOW OFF A BIT, THE SUN CAME OUT with rice, pickles, fruit, and mozuku seaweed. ashibiuna.ryoji.okinawa

SHOP AT TSUBOYA POT- Tokashiku Beach, before depositing After lunch, we rented a car and drove TERY VILLAGE us outside our pension hotel. Reef Inn around the entire island (it’s only If there’s one Kuniyoshi is just a few minutes’ walk 15km², mind you, so you could proba- souvenir you must from Aharen Beach, which curves bly get away with exploring by bicycle buy, it’s a shisa protectively around a coral reef, and if you aren’t concerned about uphills). statue. Pick up a pair of these “lion-dogs” leads to a 360-degree view point on one We stopped off for a swim at Tokashiku at Naha’s famous Tsuboya Pottery Village, end of its 800m stretch. Not wanting to Beach, which was deserted except for which boasts a wealth of shops selling waste any time (we had only booked two one other pair who were lucky enough expertly crafted pottery. nights), we headed straight for the sea. to spot a sea turtle shortly before we ar- And then, as if it were just dying to show rived. And later, our one perfect day on off a bit, the sun came out. Tokashiki Island came to a close with a STROLL DOWN It stayed out, too, for the whole sky painted in pastels. KOKUSAI-DORI of the next day. We rented a kayak in By the time we departed the This fun main drag the morning and pinched ourselves following morning, we felt like part of comes alive at regularly as we rowed through water the family at the pension, we were on night, with colorful the color of amazonite. It was so clear a first-name basis with the 12 cats and taxis blaring music, that we could see, in perfect detail and their owner who reside next door, and and souvenir shops bursting at the seams. without a snorkel set, the rainbow-color- I knew, with utter certainty, that I had Do buy: sweet potato tarts. Don’t buy: one ed fish swimming between our legs. at last found my holy grail of islands. of the many cans of spam on offer. SHIKINEJIMA Grab your tent and bicycle and head to Tokyo’s Takeshiba Pier on a Friday night for a spontaneous long weekend island getaway. The overnight ferry to Shikinejima departs at 11pm, and when you wake, your landscape will have transformed from concrete to jungle. Although it’s still administered by To- kyo, this tiny volcanic island is 160km south of the capital in the Philippine Sea, and is part of the Izu Seven island group. It’s only 3km by 2.5km, with a population of 600, but if you’re the sort who loves camping, barbecuing, snor- keling, kayaking, fishing, cycling, and perhaps dipping in a seaside onsen, you won’t get bored here. The beaches are small and rocky, but this is all the better for tropical fish spotting.

ESSENTIAL INFO

• The ferry needs to be booked in advance and costs around ¥7,000 one way. If you’re pressed for time and don’t mind paying a little extra, you can opt for the high-speed jet ferry instead. More information at www.tokaikisen.co.jp/english • There are two free campsites: Oura is open during Golden Week and summer, while Kamanoshita is available for off-season campers.

SHIMODA A little closer to home, the white sands of Shimoda on the Izu Peninsula can be reached in just 2.5 hours from Tokyo. The charming little town is surrounded by forested moun- tains, and its jagged coastline is dotted with so many beaches WHERE TO STAY that you’ll most likely need to • Retreat Wabi-Sabi offers a taste of return more than once to see traditional Japanese living (think them all. From Izukyu-Shimoda old-style house and futon bedding) Station, the main and most but with modern touches including a popular beach, Shirahama, beautifully kitted out, shared kitchen. lies to the left. Head in the wabisabishimoda.com opposite direction and you’ll • With its white and blue color be mingling with the surfers scheme, White Beach Hotel will give on Tatadohama Beach, and the you that breezy Mediterranean feel. most laid-back of locals on Kis- It has an onsite restaurant and offers ami Ohama Beach. Best way to a variety of outdoor activities. get around? Catch local buses whitebeach-shimoda.com or rent a bicycle – nothing is really too far away. That Outdoor Izakaya Feeling STREET-PUB DINING IS THE BEST WAY TO ENJOY TOKYO’S BALMY SUMMER NIGHTS. SKIP THE CROWDS AND CREATE YOUR VERY OWN BALCONY IZAKAYA DINNER WITH THESE FOUR SIMPLE TRADITIONAL RECIPES

Words by Aleksander Szojer and Anna Jassem, photos by Wiktor Staniecki

Crunchy Vegetables with Miso Dip

This dip is a quick way to turn fresh summer vegetables into a lovely snack that will surprise your summer barbecue guests. It is a versatile condiment for numerous other dishes too. Ingredients • 100g miso (ideally with grains of rice or barley) • 1 tbsp sugar • 1 tbsp sake • 2 tbsp mirin • Vegetables: a selection of crispy fresh vegetables such as cucumber, carrot, radish, and celery, cut into sticks. Method 1. Heat the pan and add sugar, sake, mirin and miso. Simmer for a few minutes, stirring con- stantly with a spatula, to make a thick dip. 2. Let the mixture cool down, then serve together with the vegetables. 3. Any leftovers can be put in a plastic container and preserved for up to a month in the fridge. A hint: The dip can also be used in many other ways: • Miso yaki: a marinade for fish or pork. Spread the dip onto the fish or pork, let marinate for a couple of hours and grill. • Miso dare: a base for stir fried vegetables and meat. Simply add a bit more sake to make the dip smooth and use it in a stir fry. • Miso mayo: mix the dip with mayonnaise (ratio 1:3) and serve with any crispy vegetables.

Recipe courtesy of Atsuko Ikeda, founder of Atsuko’s Kitchen Japanese cooking classes in London

TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST 2017 | 23 Sunomono Salad with Cucumber and Wakame Sunomono Sunomono (literally “vinegary dish”) is a very popular side dish in Japan. Its clean and refreshing flavor makes it a Salad perfect side dish with summer grills. It’s oil free so you don’t need to worry about calories, and you get all the nutritional goodness from the wakame seaweed, which is packed with vitamins and minerals from the sea.

Ingredients (serves 4): • 300g cucumber • 10g dried wakame seaweed • 2 tbsp salt • 4 tbsp rice vinegar • 2 tbsp sugar • 2 tbsp parched white sesame Method 1. Soak the dried wakame seaweed in a bowl of cold water until it softens, for about 10 minutes. Drain and squeeze out excess water. 2. Cut the cucumbers in half lengthwise and slice thinly. Place the cucumber slices in a bowl, sprinkle with salt and massage gently. Set aside for a few minutes. Wash out the salt and squeeze out excess water. 3. Place the vinegar and the sugar in a bowl. Mix well until the sugar is dissolved. Add the wakame, cucumber and sesame. Mix well and serve.

Recipe courtesy of food writer Yukari Elliott

Ikayaki Ikayaki Ikayaki – grilled squid in into even, approx. 1cm sweet sauce – is another sum- rings and the tentacles into mer street dish that you can bite-size pieces. If you are easily recreate at home. In the using frozen squid tubes or original version, the squid is rings, defrost them first. grilled whole, with only diag- 2. Mix all the marinade in- onal cuts in the flesh, but it’s gredients and marinate the easier to eat if cut into rings. squid for approx. 10 min. Rub off the marinade and Ingredients (serves 4): save for later. • 500g of fresh or frozen squid 3. Heat oil in a pan at medium • 1 tbsp sake or white wine heat. Add the squid • 2 tbsp of vegetable oil for and stir-fry until golden frying (approx. 2 minutes), stirring Marinade: often. • 2 tbsp soy sauce 4. Lower the heat, add sake, • 1 tbsp sake cover the pan and let the • 1 tbsp sugar squid steam on low heat for • 1 tbsp mirin a further 2 minutes. • ½ tsp grated ginger 5. Once the squid is cooked • ½ tsp grated garlic through, add the marinade For serving: and cook, stirring constant- • Mayonnaise ly, until it starts to thicken • Shichimi (seven spices) (approx. 2 minutes). 6. Serve immediately. Method 1. If you are using a whole A hint: squid, clean it, discarding Be careful not to over-cook entrails, head and the pur- the squid or it will become plish outside membrane. rubbery. Keep the squid body and tentacles, and rinse under Recipe courtesy of Kohei Yagi running water. Cut the body Yakitori

Yakitori No summer festivity would be complete without yakitori, which is cooked on skewers with a sweet Method tare sauce or simply with salt (shio). With this 1. Soak skewers in water for at least 10 minutes, so simple recipe, you will be able make sweet yakitori that they don’t burn during grilling. even without setting up your barbeque. 2. Cut chicken into roughly 3cm x 3cm pieces. 3. Cut leek into approximately 1cm slices. 4. Thread the chicken and leek pieces alternately on (for 6 skewers) Ingredients the skewers. • 200g chicken thighs – without bones 5. Mix and heat all the sauce ingredients. Remove • 1 leek (white part only) from heat once boiling. • Wooden/ bamboo skewers 6. Grill the chicken for 6-8 minutes on each side, Sauce: either on a grill or in a grill pan. • 100ml soy sauce 7. When both sides are grilled until brown, brush • 50ml mirin the skewers with the sauce and grill for a further These recipes come • 1 tbsp sake or white wine from Anna Jassem and 1-2 min (don’t grill for too long because the meat • 1 tbsp brown sugar Aleksander Szojer’s will get tough). upcoming book on • 1 small garlic clove, crushed 8. Serve immediately. Japanese seasonal foods and traditions Recipe courtesy of Kohei Yagi, Japanese food consultant and author of a Polish blog on Japanese cooking UNIQUE SUMMER CRUISES IN TOKYO Words by Lisa Wallin

Free your mind from the hustle and bustle of the city by setting sail on Tokyo’s waterways

okyo has a long history of waterfront entertainment and offers a plethora of options where conversation and drinks flow. We’ve rounded up some of our favorites to help you T find what kind of tour floats your boat. 1. ENTERTAINMENT EXTRAVAGANZA: SAMURAI SHIP GOZABUNE ATAKEMARU The Gozabune Atakemaru is a replica of a ship commissioned by Iemitsu Tokugawa in 1632. Both the original and its replica display an air of opulence and comfort, but while Tokugawa’s pleasure boat was also used for war, the modern day version is simply for fun. The ship offers a great view of Tokyo Bay at night along with a dinner show featuring performers from the famous Shiki theater company. The stage show is interactive, creating a fun and lively atmosphere for all ages. www.samuraiship.tokyo

2. AN EDO EDUCATION: RIVERBOAT MIZUHA Named for Mizuhanome, a water goddess, Mizuha is a charming little brown boat in a retro style. Owner Miho Sato is the ship’s guide and gives a unique insight into Tokyo and its history in impeccable English, while her husband steers the ship along its course. Sato’s in-depth knowledge coupled with her dry humor make the tours fun, fascinating and a great learning experience for even the most knowledgeable Tokyoite. The boat seats about 10 people and is available for shared or chartered cruises. www.funaasobi-mizuha.jp/english

26 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER 3. GO YOUR OWN WAY: were used for cherry blossom TOKYO WATER TAXI viewing parties and private The idea for Tokyo Water Taxi haiku readings alike. The cruises came about after the Great Toho- offer great views of the Sumida ku Earthquake, when the owners River and Tokyo Bay, but it’s their witnessed how hard it was for epicurean efforts that are their many to walk home through the true claim to fame. Dinners are crowded streets. By freeing up the extravagant offerings of sashimi, waterways, it would be easier to tempura and other seasonal effectively transport those who delights, with some boats needed it most. In more peaceful cooking everything on board. times, visitors can charter the www.yakatabune-kumiai.jp/en boat for a trip down the canals and rivers of Tokyo – and 5. KINETIC KRAFTWERK: even out to Tokyo Bay. Guests KOJO YAKEI TOURS can choose either their own Head out of Tokyo down to harbor custom route, or go with one cities Kawasaki and Yokohama recommended by the captain. and you’ll find a cruise that’ll Top tip: ask about stopping by take you to another world. Kojo a riverside bakery to pick up yakei tours (literally “factory night an extra treat on your trip. view” tours) give visitors an excit- water-taxi.tokyo ing insight into industrial areas traditionally thought of as eye- 4. DINE LIKE A DAIMYO: sores, now appreciated for their TRADITIONAL YAKATABUNE aesthetics. Drift past smokestacks For the ultimate traditional river churning out steam, illuminated experience, look no further than by colossal industrial plants as the classic yakatabune. These they churn away through the tatami-floored boats have been night. These tours are especially a part of Tokyo’s river culture recommended for photographers for hundreds of years, reaching looking to capture beauty in unex- the height of their popularity pected environments. in the Edo period where they www.tabione.com/en/factory_cruise

TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST 2017 | 27 A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A RICKSHAW DRIVER WE CHAT WITH A VETERAN SHAFU ABOUT THE BEST, WORST – AND WEIRDEST – PARTS OF THE JOB

Words and photos by Lisa Wallin

28 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER on the company, but our WHAT’S THE MOST IMPORTANT boss will generally let ASPECT OF BEING A RICKSHAW anyone who seems gen- DRIVER? uinely interested give it Apart from the dedication to the safety of our a try. Fast learners can passengers, I think it’s good to have an open pick it up in a couple and friendly personality. I was told once by of weeks, while others some young women that they wanted to ride take a couple of months. with a good-looking guy and not me. That The training period is hurt! [Laughs] You can attract customers with very rigorous, though. a pretty face, but it’s important to make sure Because we drive on the customer has a great time. A rickshaw public roads it’s imper- ride isn’t just a ride around the area – we give ative that the training full tours with little-known informational tid- reflects the weight of bits about the area and try to create a dialog that responsibility. Our with our clients. By conversing, I can find out boss usually vets poten- a client’s interests and tailor the tour to those. tial drivers himself and I’ve taken a few people to what is now their is very particular about favorite gelato shop, for example. safe driving. We have a strict policy to stop guiding when we can’t guarantee the safety of our passengers. There are a lot of things to consider: the size of the rickshaw, how easily he rickshaw driver: a common we can maneuver it in traffic – in many sight around Asakusa and yet what ways, it’s a lot like driving a car. But, thanks do we know about them, other than to our strict system, our company has had they seem really fit? To learn more, zero accidents to date. we spent a morning with Reiji TKimura, who’s a veteran shafu (rickshaw driver) by day, and a metal band drummer by night. I WAS TOLD BY SOME WHAT DOES A TYPICAL YOUNG WOMEN THAT DAY LOOK LIKE? It depends on the company you work for, THEY WANTED TO RIDE WHAT’S HARDEST ABOUT but I can set my own schedule. I try to start WITH A GOOD-LOOKING THE JOB? as early as I can, especially on weekends and Being dependent on weather conditions. On holidays as it increases the chance of getting GUY AND NOT ME hot summer days, I can down about 2.5 liters more customers. If I go out drinking the of tea and water in just a couple of hours. In night before I may start later the following winter, it gets so cold! Our busiest seasons are day. [Laughs] Basically, if I’ve earned enough Golden Week and the New Year’s holidays, to reach my goal for the day, I head home. when people travel the most. The New Year Sometimes it only takes two hours of work is especially busy, as people come to Asakusa in the morning and I’m done! On an average REIJI’S RICKSHAW TOUR from all over the country throughout January day, though, I’d say I take up to three to four to start their year with a temple visit at Sen- soji. On those days I’m driving all day, from rides, with the most in one day being 10. On MOST POPULAR ROUTE bad days, though, I’ll only get one ride the morning until night. "The Shitamachi route: I take customers whole day. The worst-case scenario – which around and explain about historical has happened once – I’ve gone home with WHAT’S THE BEST PART Showa and Edo period buildings that no rides and nothing to show for it. That was OF THE JOB? still stand in the area for a full-on retro the worst. I love meeting new people every day. People experience." come to Asakusa from all over the world. WHY DID YOU CHOOSE THIS JOB? Most of my customers are Japanese, but I I can schedule my work to fit around my per- FAVORITE SPOT IN ASAKUSA have a lot of Korean and Chinese custom- sonal life. If I decide to take a random Wednes- "Matsuchiya Shoden. It’s one of Sensoji’s ers as well. Then there are of course many day off to hang out with a friend, I can. I’ll lose constituent temples, but is kind of far people from the US, Europe, and Australia as out on any potential earnings that day, but I away from the main temple area, next well. I get to practice my English, too. I start can usually make it up on a weekend. Since to Sumida Park by the river. The temple off a bit rusty, but by the end of the day I feel I’m in a band, it’s important for me to have itself is beautiful and it’s a well-known pretty fluent! a job that’s flexible, and this way I can make power spot. It’s been portrayed a lot in more than I would with a normal full-time or ukiyo-e during the Edo period." WHAT’S THE WEIRDEST THING part-time job. I also get a great workout. I’d say YOU’VE EVER EXPERIENCED I run about 20km on busy days, and about 10 BOOK A RIDE WORKING? to 12km on quieter days. Reiji works for Hidaya, which has 10 driv- I drove one person on four separate occa- ers, three of whom speak good English. sions in the same day. He really got into the To book a driver for a ride or event, send HOW DO YOU BECOME A area and asked me to take him somewhere. a tweet to @Asakusahidaya on Twitter. He’d wander off and explore, or eat, then I’d RICKSHAW DRIVER? Or book directly via Reiji at reiji_k1323@ run into him again and he’d ask me to take The application process differs depending yahoo.co.jp him somewhere else.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST 2017 | 29 How “Asian Boss” is Exploding Cultural Stereotypes Words by Michael Lanigan. Illustrations by Bunny Bissoux

Using the street interview interviews across major cities in Japan and Korea, although style, Asian Boss YouTube recently they have veered channel founders Kei Ibaraki towards in-depth one-on-ones and Stephen Park quiz people and panel discussions, while also setting up operations on how they feel about topics in China and India. The as varied as North Korean formula is a simple one, but the product has proven illumi- defectors and Japan’s death- nating, attracting more than 400,000 from-overwork syndrome. subscribers on YouTube. Whereas most content creators who gain traction by in Australia, the earliest videos explored the Here, they tell us about their opining on Asian societies tend towards various facets of dating, but soon thereafter sweeping overviews (“10 Things I Hate successes, their challenges they diversified, before relocating to Korea, About Japan” or “How to Date Asian – and the art of getting where they still reside. From there, Ibaraki Women”), Ibaraki and Park tend towards decided they should expand to Japan. more specified areas, exploring numer- Tokyoites to open up Privacy, he notes, was the initial challenge ous “Asian trends or social issues, ones here. “We get maybe eight interviews per top- where I almost want to fix the problem.” ith what I’m doing, I don’t re- ic. We just want to learn from other perspec- “People gear towards us because ally have days off,” Kei Ibaraki tives, end stereotypes and conflicts,” he adds. they’re used to fragmented bullshit on TV. says, while taking a break. It’s On Japanese streets, however, “asking random Younger generations don’t watch main- close to 10 at night. He’s been people about issues that need to be discussed W stream media. There, people just hear filming all day and is readying himself for … you might get auto-responses. In Australia, what they want to hear, but you need an all-night editing session. Still, there’s people are up for talking. You approach three both sides of a story. It’s just a matter of no sense of being downtrodden. The eight people and you will get one piece of solid listening, which gets rid of bigotry,” says hours of bed he is prepared to pass up will material.” At one point in Tokyo, he recalls Ibaraki. Of course, he is quick to note add to his ideas set to unfold over the next being rejected by “38 people” in a row, while that this was never part of the original three months. on average “it takes seven or eight people to plan. They did not choose video for any It’s not necessarily a shock that he is get just one short response.” specific purpose. “We just started doing it. upbeat. Positivity and YouTube content If anything, that idea of hiding one’s true Through trial and error of trying different creators are synonymous. The main differ- self from the public has been the strength in platforms, we stumbled upon the street ence here is that Ibaraki keeps his personal the Japanese section. While recently the duo interview style.” That was almost four happiness off the screen. Onscreen he’s has amassed an enormous number of hits for years ago. At the time, Ibaraki had been an observer, an active listener who is shy their series on North Korean defectors, one working in retail and eco-architecture. on personal pronouns. A rare quality, it is of the subtler gems has been understanding Park was working as a lawyer. “Funda- part of his and co-founder Stephen Park’s public facades in Japanese society, which in mentally we just wanted to add value to appeal in how they run their social media turn perpetuate such negative cycles like sex- people’s lives, so while working full-time, company Asian Boss. “We just want it as ism and homophobia. Polite, but gutsy, Ibaraki we did videos on weekends.” neutral as possible,” he says. makes asking “why” an engaging spectacle “Then, when we realized this was The pair has made themselves a when handed replies either too presumptive having an impact, things became serious. successful brand by conducting street or general. Critical thinking is his core value. If It wasn’t a clean cut though. I had to somebody says something, why is it that they slowly reduce my retail hours until I believe it to be so? “I mean, look, here’s the could make ends meet.” Initially shooting thing: where do stereotypes come from? They come from not knowing about something. So by getting people to talk you move towards building a greater understanding, you become inclusive.” Here, he reads off a message from a follower: “Because of you, I started learning English. I’m more proactive towards different nationalities. Thank you.” “Man”, he says with awe. “That’s amazing. You can have that impact. That gets me excited.”

Watch the Asian Boss interviews at www.youtube.com/user/askasianboss

30 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER What Do the People Say? Asian Boss is gathering a reputation not only for the interesting – and sometimes controversial – topics covered, but also for being able to encourage people to talk freely on the spot. Here are excerpts from four of their recent Japan-focused interviews…

Is the Japanese Education System Failing? Man: “You had to follow the rules no matter how you felt about it. For example, we couldn’t ever use mechanical pencils.” Kei: “Why?” Man: “I don’t know. Not even the teacher knew when I asked them, but we had to follow it, because it was the rule. That’s how even if we found a particular rule strange, we wouldn’t question it. That’s the type of people the system is creating.”

How Do the Japanese Feel About LGBT? “I do see a lot of gay “You mean it’s almost people on TV shows, but close to 1 out of 10 people I’ve never met anyone in [that are gay in Japanese person that said they were society]? … We’ve only gay. I’m actually a student come this far as a species myself, but even at school, because we had both no one really talks about genders. If either one didn’t these issues.” exist, we’d go extinct.” Why Japanese Die From Overwork (Karoshi) “Most companies take “In other countries, you might employees working be judged on your actual job overtime for granted. performance, but in Japan you They equate working are judged on how hard you overtime with better ‘appear’ to be working. That’s job performance.” what you get evaluated on.”

Are Japanese Girls

Really Dumb? “I don’t know if dumb is the “Japanese women really want right way to express it. It might to get married, so by hiding be just holding their opinions, their true reality [high salary, not like trying to be silly or university education and so anything. Even that they know on], if that can help them get something, they might just into a relationship, then that’s pretend that they don’t know.” an option.”

TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST 2017 | 31 Who is the Greatest Japanese Person Ever? Words by Matthew Hernon OISHI KURANOSUKE On the night of December 14, 1702 WE ASKED 500 TOKYOITES TO NOMI- 22(based on the old Japanese calendar), Oishi Kuranosuke led a group of 47 Ronin (mas- NATE THE DESERVING TITLE WINNER. terless samurai) on a mission to exact revenge on a high-ranking official they held responsible HERE, WE COUNT DOWN THE TOP 25… for the death of their lord. The famous vendetta, which was said to have embodied “the essence of TAKESHI KITANO the samurai,” is often retold in plays, novels, films One of Japan’s “big three” television and other media. 25comedians, a critically acclaimed arthouse director and a highly respected actor, HIBARI MISORA Takeshi Kitano (a.k.a. Beat Takeshi) says his “core The undisputed queen of enka, Hibari activity is trying to avoid being pigeon-holed by 21 Misora was a cultural icon whose mu- the public.” He is also a sculptor, author, present- sic helped to give the public hope after WWII. She er, poet, and columnist. A former manzai artist made her debut as an 11-year-old in 1948 and went who hosted the slapstick gameshow Takeshi’s on to record a total of 1,200 songs. Her final track Castle, Kitano is most well-known abroad for "Kawa no Nagara yo ni" was voted the greatest movies such as Hana-bi, Sonatine and Zatoichi. Japanese song of all time in a poll by NHK.

TOYOTOMI HIDEYOSHI INO TADATAKA Japan’s second great unifier, Toyotomi At the age of 55 Ino Tadataka, a 24was a skilled military leader who 20wealthy sake merchant, embarked ruled the country from 1584 until his death in on a 17-year surveying expedition of Japan. The 1598 (though, he wasn’t bestowed with the title esteemed cartographer reportedly spent 3,736 days of shogun because of his peasant class origins). making coastline and inland measurements (trav- During his reign, he financed the construction eling approximately 34,913km). His magnum opus, of numerous castles and temples, prohibited all a map of the entire coastline of Japan, remained non-samurai from bearing arms, restricted travel unfinished at his death in 1818, but was completed and famously ordered the crucifixion of many by his surveying team three years later. Christians, including the 26 Martyrs of Japan. SAZO IDEMITSU KONOSUKE MATSUSHITA Founder of the petroleum company Founder of the multinational 19 Idemitsu Kosan, Sazo Idemitsu was a 23electronics corporation Panasonic, patriotic industrialist who wasn't afraid to take Konosuke Matsushita was a self-made business ty- on what he called the "international oil cartel." coon who started out in a cramped two-room ten- His watershed moment came in 1953 when he sent ement a century ago. He had ¥100, three employ- a large tanker to purchase oil in Iran, which was ees and just one product: an electric light socket. under a British-led embargo. Paying 30 percent Today Panasonic is a global household name. In less than market prices, he was commended for his 1979, the then 84-year-old launched the Matsush- audaciousness. ita Institute of Government and Management to train future politicians and businesspeople. SOICHIRO HONDA An entrepreneurial giant, Soichiro EMPEROR HIROHITO 18 Honda overcame many obstacles, Japan’s longest reigning monarch, including opposition from the government, to 9Emperor Hirohito presided over the build one of the biggest automotive compa- most tumultuous period in modern Japanese nies in the world. He was a maverick who went history. For some historians, he was an active against the Ministry of International Trade and war leader who escaped justice after WWII, Industry (MITI) when they tried to ban new car while others viewed him as a powerless fig- makers in the country. The first Japanese firm urehead who warned that the attack on Pearl to manufacture automobiles in America, Honda Harbor would be “self-destructive.” After proved very popular overseas. the war Hirohito renounced his divinity and helped to rebuild Japan’s diplomatic image KAZUYOSHI MIURA abroad. Earlier this season 50-year-old 17 Kazuyoshi Miura became the old- PRINCE SHOTOKU est competitive goal scorer in the history Regarded as “the father of Japanese of professional football. The man known 8Buddhism,” Shōtoku Taishi was ap- affectionately as “King Kazu” left school at the and, most famously, Astro Boy. The man who pointed regent by his aunt, Empress Suiko in age of 15 so he could become a footballer in introduced big-eyed characters to manga 593. Influenced by Confucian principles he re- Brazil. He played for a number of clubs there was also qualified to practice medicine. In portedly authored the 17-article constitution, including Pelé’s former side, Santos. He was 1965, he turned down an offer from Stanley established a centralized government, opened also the first Japanese player to sign for an Kubrick to be his art director for 2001: A relations with China, and was allegedly the Italian club. Space Odyssey. first person to coin the name Nihon. Some scholars, including Chubu University profes- YOSHIDA SHOIN EMPEROR AKIHITO sor Oyama Seiichi, have expressed doubt with “To consider oneself different Known as “the people’s emper- regards to the prince’s historicity. 16 from ordinary men is wrong, but 13 or,” Akihito has, for the past three it’s right to hope that one will not remain like decades, tried to modernize the imperial ordinary men.” A distinguished samurai of family, bringing them closer to the public. Not great intellect, Yoshida Shoin was anything afraid to upset nationalists, he has regularly but ordinary. Many of the students at his icon- expressed his remorse for Japan’s actions dur- ic private school Shoka Sonjuku – including ing WWII, acknowledged his ancestors’ Korean heroic figure Takasugi Shinsaku and Japan’s roots and in 1992 became the first Japanese first prime minister Ito Hirobumi – played monarch to visit mainland China. He’s recently instrumental roles in the Meiji Restoration. been given permission to abdicate the throne.

EMPRESS MICHIKO JIRO SHIRASU Eldest daughter of a wealthy flour A principled man who loved his 15 miller, Michiko Shoda became the 12 country, Jiro Shirasu earned first commoner to marry into the imperial the respect of a nation in December 1945. family when she wed Crown Prince Akihito Commissioned to deliver a Christmas present in January 1959. She was reportedly ill-treat- from Emperor Hirohito to General Doug- ed by mother-in-law Empress Nagako and her las MacArthur, he was told to put it on the courtiers, and was rumored to have suffered floor by the latter. Shirasu reprimanded the a nervous breakdown because of the stress. general for his lack of respect and demanded Seen as a dutiful wife and loving mother, she he put it on a table. MacArthur wasn’t used to has earned the respect of the Japanese people. being spoken to like that, but duly obliged.

OSAMU TEZUKA YUKICHI FUKUZAWA Dubbed the “god of manga” and Founder of the newspaper Jiji 14 “father of anime,” Osamu Tezuka 11 Shinpo and Keio University (Ja- HAYAO MIYAZAKI was a phenomenal artist and storyteller who pan’s first private university), Yukichi Fukuza- Director of some of the most imagina- created more than 700 volumes of work, wa was a progressive thinker who challenged 7tive animated films ever made, Hayao including Black Jack, Kimba the White Lion the notion that all people had a fixed role in a Miyazki has a godlike status in Japan. His hierarchical society. He encouraged people to most popular smash hits include Howl’s think for themselves through his philosophy Moving Castle, Princess Mononoke, Ponyo and of dokuritsu-jison (independence and self- Spirited Away – the highest grossing movie respect), which was a revolutionary concept at in Japanese history. It won an Oscar for Best the time. He is the face of the ¥10,000 note. Animated feature in 2002, but the co-founder of Studio Ghibli didn’t turn up to receive the AKIRA KUROSAWA award in protest o Described by Steven Spielberg the war in Iraq. 10 as “the pictorial Shakespeare of our time,” Akira Kurosawa was the one of ODA NOBUNAGA the most influential directors of the 20th Viewed as both a hero and villain, Oda century. George Lucas borrowed ideas from 6Nobunaga was so ruthless he had his his 1958 classic Hidden Forest for Star Wars, maid executed after she left a stem of fruit while The Magnificent Seven and A Fistful of on his floor. The first of Japan’s great three Dollars were effectively remakes of Seven unifiers, Nobunaga was the man that laid Samurai and Yojimbo. “Let me say it simply,” the foundations for Toyotomi Hideyoshi and said Martin Scorsese, “Kurosawa was my Tokugawa Ieyasu. Known as the “Demon master.” Daimyo,” he managed to consolidate the ma- jority of what had been a fractured country.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST 2017 | 33 ICHIRO SUZUKI accused of unethical human experimenta- A baseball legend tion, having allegedly injected children with 4 who’s usually re- a syphilis extract, lutein, while trying to ferred to mononymously, develop a skin test for syphilis. Ichiro is arguably Japan’s His most significant scientific contribu- greatest ever sporting tion came in 1913 when he demonstrated export. the presence of the bacterium Treponema pallidum – the causative agent of syphilis – in Playing for Miami Mar- the brain of a progressive paralysis patient, lins in July, the 43-year- proving it was the cause of the disease. old outfielder surpassed Much of Noguchi’s later research was Panamanian “batting discredited, however, including his claim champion” Rod Carew that yellow fever was caused by spirochete as the record-holder for bacteria. He had seemingly confused yellow hits by a foreigner in the fever with leptospirosis. Major League. Remark- He died of the former while working ably, he only made his in Accra, Gold Coast (modern-day Ghana) MLB debut at the age aged 51. of 27. Before moving to TOKUGAWA IEYASU America, Ichiro played for Orix Blue Wave in A patient and shrewd general who Japan where he recorded 1,278 hits in nine 5 waited for the right time to take con- seasons. Combining his totals from the two trol, Ieyasu was the founder of the Tokugawa countries he’s had more hits than any player Shogunate, a dynasty that ruled Japan for in the history of top-tier baseball. more than 250 years. In 2001, he signed for the Seattle Mar- iners, where he was handed the 51 jersey Along with Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi previously worn by Randy Johnson. Ichiro Hideyoshi, Ieyasu was one of the three great sent the legendary pitcher a letter promising leaders who helped to unify the country to- not to bring shame to the number. He needn’t wards the end of the Sengoku (Warring States) have worried. The Japanese star became the period. A master tactician on the battlefield first player to achieve 10 consecutive 200-hit and calculating off it, he was careful when it seasons and won 10 Golden Glove awards came to forming and changing allegiances. over the same period. He’s broken too many He remained loyal to Nobunaga and even records to mention and plans to continue ordered the execution of his own wife and son playing until he’s 50. (by forced seppuku) when they were accused of conspiring against the ruthless warrior. Five years after Nobunaga was killed, Ieyasu joined forces wih Hideyoshi, who sent SAKAMOTO RYOMA him to govern lands in East Japan. Following “Although I was born a mere Hideyoshi's death, civil war broke out and potato digger in Tosa, a nobody, I’m in 1600 Ieyasu’s troops defeated the Western 2 destined to bring about big changes in the army at the Battle of Sekigahara. Three years nation,” wrote the legendary samurai in later he received the title of shogun and then one of many letters he sent to his sister. consolidated his power at the Siege of Osaka in 1615, eliminating the remnants of the True to his word, Sakamoto Ryoma was a Toyotomi clan. key player in the movement to overthrow Japan’s last military feudal government: the Tokugawa Shogunate. In 1862, he illegally abandoned his home domain in Tosa and headed to Edo where he met Katsu Kaishu, a high-ranking official, who Sakamoto had originally planned to assas- sinate. Katsu convinced him they would be better off working together to develop a long-term plan to increase Japan’s military strength. DR. HIDEYO NOGUCHI Sakamoto remarkably managed to broker a peace deal between the warring The face of the ¥1,000 note, Dr. Hideyo provinces of Satsuma (Kagoshima Prefec- Noguchi was a renowned bacteriologist 3 ture) and Choshu (Yamaguchi Prefecture) who dedicated his life to medical research. to help them conquer the Shogunate. As a toddler Noguchi burned his left hand, Along with Katsu, he also modernized the resulting in his fingers being fused together. navy and established Japan’s first modern He passed his medical exams at the age of 20, company known as Kaientai, which but struggled to find work in Japan due to his was initially used to transport guns for disability. At the start of the 20th century he revolutionaries. Sakamoto was murdered moved to America where he was nicknamed in Kyoto in 1867. The identity of his killer “the human dynamo.” In 1911 Noguchi was remains a mystery.

34 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER managed to track him down after trying un- successfully through the ministry of foreign AND THE GREATEST affairs numerous times. Nishri informed us that many others had escaped. My father never really displayed his emotions, but that was pleasing for him to hear because he had JAPANESE PERSON no idea what had happened to them.” For decades, little was known about Sugihara. Things started to change in the EVER IS... years leading up to his death, and in 1985, a year before his passing, he was recognized in Israel as Righteous Among the Nations, a title given to non-Jews who showed great courage during the Holocaust to help keep Jewish people alive. Interest in the former diplomat has continued to grow since. He's had streets, museums and an aster- oid named in his honor. Numerous books, documentaries and films have been written about him, including the 2015 movie Perso- na Non Grata. “It’s good that people know about what he did and I believe his story will be included in Japanese textbooks, but I’m concerned the truth is being distorted,” Nobuki tells us. “I’ve listened to his recordings and he doesn’t mention throwing visas from a train, which was written in a biography and has been repeated many times. It’s often been said that he was born in Yaotsu when in fact his birthplace was Mino City. I feel the movie has lots Photos courtesy of Nobuki Sugihara of inaccuracies too, and Toshiaki Karasawa’s character was nothing like my father. Also, the female Russian spy didn’t exist.” Persona Non Grata director Cellin Gluck, Chiune Sugihara a man of Japanese and Jewish descent, de- A man who defied the Japanese government and risked his fended the film to Weekender. “Every story needs a certain amount of romance,” he career to save the lives of thousands of Jewish people (mainly says. “The character of Irina is based on an from Poland) who were living in Lithuania during WWII. actual person but since she didn’t come back into his life in Kaunas, we decided to fic- n July 18, 1940, a crowd of tionalize her. We took great care to portray Jewish refugees gathered Chiune Sugihara as a man of compassion outside the Japanese consulate MY FATHER JUST DID and intelligence who did what he did guided building in Kaunas, Lithuania. by his own moral compass.” With Nazi Germany rapidly WHAT HE FELT WAS RIGHT “We did all we could to honor Mr. Sugiha- Oadvancing east, their only hope of survival ra without turning him into a cartoon super- EVEN IF THERE WERE it seemed was to obtain a transit visa for Ja- hero, which would have been unacceptable. pan. Acting consul from the Netherlands Jan REPERCUSSIONS It’s an important story about an individual Zwartendijk had issued them with permits who did what he believed was right regard- for Curaçao, a Dutch colonial territory in the less of the consequences. I hope people that West Indies where visas weren’t required. watch it can feel that one person, no matter To get through the Soviet Union, however, Japanese foreign office asked Sugihara the odds, can truly make a difference.” they required transit visas for a third coun- to resign in 1947. try. That’s where Chiune Sugihara came in. “My father just did Aside from Zwartendijk, he was the only what he felt was right remaining foreign consul in the city. Though even if there were reper- sympathetic to their cause, Sugihara first cussions,” says Sugihara’s wanted to get approval from the Japanese youngest and only surviv- foreign ministry before issuing any visas. ing son, Nobuki Sugihara. Three times he wired a request; three times “He would never think of he was refused. himself as a hero and rarely With the situation becoming more talked about what he did desperate, Sugihara decided to ignore his in Kaunas. I knew nothing government and take matters into his own about it until I was 19. He got hands. Despite knowing that his career and a call from the Israeli em- life were at stake, he worked 18 to 20 hours bassy in Japan and we went a day issuing more than 2,000 visas, many there together. Commercial of which included dependents. It’s estimat- attaché Jehoshua Nishri, ed that between 6,000 and 10,000 people whose family had been saved escaped because of his selflessness. The by a visa [my father] issued,

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Museo de la Real Academia Bellas Artes San Fernando Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Spring, 1563, oil on oak wood, Madrid,

COMING UP ROSES Whether you believe Giuseppe Arcimboldo's imaginative paintings to be a sign of mental instability or a whimsical spirit, they're enough to keep you inspired all month long...

YOKOHAMA TRIENNALE 2017: ISLANDS, CONSTELLATIONS & GALAPAGOS

For the Yokohama Triennale’s sixth edition, curators have gathered together the work of more than 40 artists, whose pieces explore themes of isolation and connectivity, imagination and guidance, and distinctness and diversity. Among large scale works that turn art museums themselves into artistic canvases and more intimate pieces that invite museumgoers to reflect quietly on the Triennale’s themes, museumgoers will find surprises, challenging images, and plenty of aesthetic food for thought. Yokohama Museum of Art, Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse No. 1, Yokohama Port Opening Memorial Hall Until November 5 www.yokohamatriennale.jp/english THE ART WORLD OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS

Compiled by Alec Jordan Numen/For Use, “Tape Tokyo 02” (Photo: Keizo Kioku)

GRAND PROJECTS: HOW FAR WILL YOU GO? For their piece, Floating Piers, Christo and Jeanne-Claude used 220,000 polyethylene cubes and some 100,000 square meters of yellow fabric in or- der to allow 1.2 million people to walk on the waters of Lake Iseo in Italy over the course of a few weeks. This is just one example of the lengths to which artists will go when they are bringing their most extravagant creations to life. How Far Will You Go delves into the processes behind pieces that stretch the bounds of possibility. 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT Until October 1 www.2121designsight.jp/en

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KIKUCHI Tomoko, Guimei at the mirror, Chongquing from serie s I and I, 2011, Ink-jet Print

I SUMMER ILLUMINATIONS

Dispelling the idea that illuminations are a winter-only affair, Lisa Wallin shares three places in and around Tokyo that will SCROLLING THROUGH HEISEI PART 2: COMMUNICATION light up your nights this summer AND SOLITUDE The Heisei period (1989-present) has been a time when digital innovations have transformed the way we communicate and interact. Email, social media, and TOKYO TOWER always-on connections are convenient, but they bring with them a new kind of MILKY WAY distance, and sometimes a greater feeling of separation. This exhibition draws ILLUMINATION from the Tokyo Photographic Art Museum’s 34,000-work collection, and looks In the spirit of the at the way in which changing relationships between artists and subjects and recent Tanabata between artists and viewers play out in the medium of photography. holiday, Tokyo Tokyo Photographic Art Museum Until September 18 topmuseum.jp Tower is making sure that lovers Orihime and Hikoboshi have a chance to meet all summer long by recreating a

starry night — complete with Milky Way — on the

Museo de la Real Academia Bellas Artes San Fernando Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Spring, 1563, oil on oak wood, Madrid, first floor of the main observatory deck. The outer staircase, usually only open on weekends, is open daily and has its own illumination starting around sunset. Until September 3

TOKYO MIDTOWN'S SUMMER LIGHT GARDEN Tokyo Midtown will be ablaze with "light fireworks" on a big screen this summer, with fireworks shows scheduled three times an hour. The light shows will feature programs from each of the three grand fireworks festivals in Japan: Nagaoka, Omagari, and Tsuchiura. For four days, August 10 to August 13, there will be a special performance featuring 300 real fireworks in combination with the light show, in celebration of Tokyo Midtown's 10th anniversary. Until August 31

ENOSHIMA TORO LANTERN FESTIVAL ARCIMBOLDO: NATURE INTO ART Down in Kanaga- wa, they take a Once you see a piece by Giuseppe Arcimboldo, you’ll never forget it. The 16th century more traditional Milanese painter uses vegetables, fruits, flowers, and other objects to make up the approach to summer illuminations, lighting up features of his portrait subjects – an approach that is both witty and a little disturbing. Enoshima island with traditional paper lanterns. Recognized by his contemporaries as a unique talent, Arcimboldo also found favor It's the largest illumination event in the area, fea- among the Surrealists of the 20th century. This exhibition includes about 100 works, turing over 1,000 paper lanterns lining the streets including some 30 oil paintings and drawings; it also marks the first time that a col- of the island. Until August 31 lection of Arcimboldo’s pieces will be exhibited in Japan. The National Museum of Western Art Until September 24 arcimboldo2017.jp/english

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AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN AUGUST

1 AUG 18-19 2 AUG 26 3 AUG 1-27 4 AUG 12 SHIMOKITAZAWA ASAKUSA SAMBA CARNIVAL SPECTERS BY TSUKIOKA ASAKUSA TORO NAGASHI AWAODORI FESTIVAL Celebrating Brazil’s rich links with YOSHITOSHI An event with glowing paper Watch awaodori dancers and Japan and the exciting world of samba, Ota Memorial Museum of Art opens lanterns floating along the Sumida taiko drummers glide through the Asakusa’s annual samba carnival is an exhibition displaying a series of River. Participants decorate their narrow streets as they wind past both a colorful, entertaining parade yokai (monsters, ghosts, specters) lanterns, then send them off as stalls offering snacks and beer. and a serious dance contest. by the last great ukiyo-e master, they make a wish. Where: Around Shimokitazawa Where: Kaminarimon Dori Tsukioka Yoshitoshi. Where: Sumida Park Station How much: Free Where: Ota Memorial Museum of Art How much: Free How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com How much: ¥700-¥1,000 More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com

5 AUG 20 6 AUG 1-31 7 AUG 18 8 AUG 11-27 PAINT, WINE AND HANABI FUERZA BRUTA: WA! SONIC MANIA 2017 HAKKIYOI KITTE Talented artist and instructor WONDER EXPERIENCE This all-night concert kicks off the Held at the Marunouchi KITTE Sachiko will guide you on how to Argentinian postmodern theater Summer Sonic festival weekend building, this event lets visitors paint Japanese-style fireworks show Fuerza Bruta is back, and this with a Friday night loaded with EDM, discover and experience the culture while you enjoy hors d’oeuvres time with an injection of Japanese electro, disco punk, pop and plenty of Japan’s national sport, sumo. and wine. inspiration. of rock. Where: KITTE Where: ArtBar Where: Shinagawa Prince Hotel Where: Makuhari Messe How much: Free How much: ¥6,000-¥7,000 How much: ¥7,600-¥12,000 How much: ¥11,500-¥20,000 More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com

40 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST 2017 | 41 Society TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIAL COLUMN WITH BILL HERSEY

really hope it’s cooled down by the time you read this, but Second Harvest website at 2hj.org/english/. Now let’s move on to the I don’t have my hopes up too high. If you’ve lived here any many happenings around Old Edo time at all, you know that it can be hot and humid well into September. We can’t really complain though, as Tokyo has more than its share of air-conditioned public transportation, OPENING FESTIVAL – SAISEIKAI’S NEW BUILDING Ishopping malls, museums, restaurants, coffee shops, convenience Time as we all know really flies. It’s been three years and four months stores, and more. Anyway, it’ll be autumn, a really nice season here in since I had to spend six weeks in Saiseikai Hospital. I really thank my Japan, before we know it. doctor Kempei Matsuoka. He’s the man who recommended the hos- With lots of people traveling abroad, always busy Tokyo has pital, and one of the many staff there who helped me through what slowed down a bit. Even so, there are always all kinds of happenings could have been some rough times. all over Japan. For me, these included an American production of one In May, I had the privilege of joining him, his wife Yasue, his of my all-time favorite Broadway musicals, West Side Story, as well as daughter Sachiko, who’s also a diabetes specialist, and her two daugh- the super Drum Tao show. ters Sakura and Aoi at the opening Unfortunately, schedule mix ups festival of the hospital’s new big super and other commitments kept me TOKYO FLASHBACK modern facilities. Bill and cinematic bad boy Johnny Depp from several important events. These In 1911, Emperor Meiji do- included the 119th anniversary cele- nated ¥1.5 million for the establish- bration for the Philippines, a country ment of a public medical institution. I love, which was hosted by new Am- Now they have 41 branch offices (hos- bassador Jose C. Laurel and his wife pitals, clinics, etc.) in 37 prefectures. Milagros. The reception and fashion This includes a clinic ship, the Saisei show was held in the Fuji Room at Maru, which visits 68 islands in the the Imperial Hotel. From all reports it Japanese Inland Sea. I don’t have the was a very exciting, colorful celebra- space or technical knowhow to list tion. all their hospitals, clinics, schools for I was out of Tokyo on July 15, so nursing welfare and everything, but I didn’t get to the Makuhari Messe all together they total 331 with a staff Convention Center for the Abu Dhabi of about 35,000. Grand Slam Jiu Jitsu World Tour To- The new building behind kyo 2017. My thanks to United Arab Tokyo Tower has the latest medical Emirates Ambassador Khaled Omran equipment from all over the world Alamen for the invitation to this very and the nurses’ stations, the oper- special sports event. Kudos to the ating rooms, and doctors’ consulta- many who participated in what had to tion rooms are really the ultimate in be a great international sports event. high tech. They’ve also gone all out to Sorry to say I’m not traveling as much make it as pleasant and comfortable as I used to, but it seems like our cra- for patients, and for their visitors as zy old world with its terrorism, travel possible. The hospital staff look great bans, rules, regulations and occasion- in their new uniforms and go all out al flaky passengers make traveling to make their patients’ stay as com- more difficult and often more expen- fortable as a hospital stay can be. sive than before. Hopefully this will Language can be a problem, but with all get better in the future. more and more foreign patients and In closing this part of the column – how about helping our friends the Olympics coming up, more of the at the Franciscan Chapel help others? Here’s information Father staff are learning basic English. Most of the doctors studied abroad Grimm gave me on some of the chapel’s current projects: Have you as well as here, and many do speak English. If you need any more in- noticed that though shopping centers may be crowded, relatively few formation on Saiseikai, call 03-3451-8211 and ask for Yoshihara-san. people are carrying shopping bags? It’s a sign that all is not well with She really knows her work. I should add she was the interpreter for the economy. Donald Trump when he visited Japan about 35 years ago. Another sign is the recent declaration by the welfare ministry that the situation of poor children has “improved” so that now only one ISRAEL’S INDEPENDENCE DAY CELEBRATION in every seven kids lives below the poverty level in a household that Israeli Ambassador Ruth Kahanoff hosted a big reception for her struggles to make ends meet. country’s Independence Day celebration at the New Otani Hotel. The To help struggling families, the Second Harvest Japan food bank program opened with a very informative speech by Ruth emphasizing gathers surplus food from retailers, manufacturers and individuals Israel’s long and good relationship with Japan. This was followed by and makes it available to those in need. If you want to learn more or a group of beautiful kids from Tohoku who sang several Israeli songs. help with contributions of food, money or time as a volunteer, see the They really put their hearts and voices into their performance.

42 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER THE ISMAYILZADES’ AZERBAIJAN NATIONAL DAY 1. Photographer Hiroyuki Suzuki, his wife fashion designer Junko Koshino and Masahiro Imamura 2. The host’s son Nursel with Nareiz Talibova and her daughter Arzu and Aydan 3. Hiroyuki, Rana, the host Amb. Ismayilzade, Diet member Akira Amari, Junko Koshino, Dewi Sukarno, Miss Sake Kanagawa 2017 4. Leila Masamoto, her mother Dinara, Rana, Junko 5. Panama Amb. Ritter Diaz, the host Amb. Gursel Ismayilzade 6. Yamamoto-san sang Azerbaijan’s national anthem 1 2

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11 13 MIN-ON 7. New Min-On Concert Assoc. President Kazuto Ito and opera stars Li Shengsu, Yu Kuizhi 8. Soka Gakkai Int’l liaison officer Joan M. Anderson and opera cast member 9. Cast beauty and outgoing Singapore Amb. & Mrs. Chin Siat Yoon 10. Bill and opera cast member

THAI FESTIVAL 11. New Indonesian Amb. Arifin Tasrif and his wife, outgoing Singaporean Amb. Chin Siat Yoon 12. Two former Japanese ambassadors to Thailand (Seiji Kojima, left, Hiroyuki Yoshita, right) flanking 14 the current Thai ambassador Bansarn Bunnag 13. Bill with Thai Deputy Prime Minister, General Thanasak Patimapragorn 14. Thai puppeteers putting on a show

TOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDERWEEKENDER || AUGUSTAUGUST 2017 | 43 ISRAELI INDEPENDENCE DAY RECEPTION AT NEW OTANI 1. Israeli Amb. Ruth Kahanoff, Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry Hiroshige Seko 2. Kyoko Spector, Yoyogi Int’l School’s Founding Director Yuko Muir 3. Japan Aerospace Pres. Dr. Naoki Okumura, US Embassy’s Jason P. Hyland 4. Gaimusho’s Takahashi-san and his wife Mami with Ruth 5. The great kids from Tohoku 6. Purity Co. Pres. Jay Dunkelman, Gaetno K.K. Pres. Guy Totaro, Ruth, Celia Dunkelman 1 2

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12 13 AT GRACE SAITO’S MEMORIAL CONCERT 7. Itsumi Sano, Akiko Yamanaka, Tokiko To, Lynn Lai 8. Kyoko Spector, Mary Katayama, Takako Asaka, Daniele Yoshikoshi 9. Keiko Sugiyama, Wided Darragi (Tunisia), Fumiko Tottori, Djibouti Amb. Ahmed Araita Ali, Syrian Amb., Madeline Umewaka 10. Homat Homes’ pres. Tani-san, Syrian Amb. Warif Halabi 11.Wided Darragi (Tunisia), Madeline Umewaka 12. HIH Princess Takamado 13. Brigitte Sekine, 14 Tokyo Women’s Club Pres. Jill Sinclair- Ito 14. Djibouti Amb. Ali, his daughter Emely

44 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER 44 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Ruth is an excellent ambassador and has made many friends for I received an invitation to a charity concert for the eradication of both herself and for Israel. I, along with others there, was happy to try polio dedicated to Grace Michiko Saito. the Israeli food as well as Japanese favorites. The laid-back ambiance It was a full house at Sogetsu Kaikan for this truly wonderful lady. of the evening really brought back some great memories of my two HIH Princess Takamado, a friend and fan of Grace, was the guest of trips to Israel – and the many dynamic people I met there. honor. The performance by seven top classical musicians and singers was excellent. The closing – when everyone there was asked to join them in singing “Amazing Grace” – was an outstanding finale for the THAI FESTIVAL IN YOYOGI PARK occasion. Our thanks and congratulation to Rotary International for I was up early on Saturday, May 13, and joined Thai Ambassador Ban- this much-deserved evening. sarn Bunnag, his wife and many Japanese and Thai VIP visitors at the 18th festival opening ceremony. The Thai Festival is always one of the most popular and this year was a celebration of the 130th anniversa- MIN-ON GALA-CHINA NATIONAL PEKING OPERA ry of Thailand-Japan diplomatic relations. First, my sincerest thanks to Min-On’s outgoing President Hiroyasu Unfortunately it was raining that day, but it was still crowded Kobayashi for the many invitations over the years to so many won- and everyone really seemed to be enjoying themselves. My thanks derful cultural exchanges from all over the world. He will keep work- to Ambassador and Mrs. Bunnag who sat me next to the new Indo- ing with the new President Kazuto Ito as adviser. I’m sure they will nesian Ambassador and Mrs. Arifin Tasrif who kindly shared their continue to bring great song and dance performers to tour and per- umbrellas. This also gave me the opportunity to meet and talk with form all over Japan. the guest of honor: Thai Deputy Prime Minister, General Thanasak Hiroyasu ended his super successful time as president with the Patimapragorn. He, the ambassador, and several Japanese made China National Peking Opera Company’s colorful shows in 28 venues short meaningful speeches to officially open the colorful and inter- across Japan. The special occasion that featured 58 cast members and esting event. After the speeches, there was a dynamic show featuring crew celebrated the 45th anniversary of the normalization of diplo- Thai musicians, dancers and traditional puppets. After the show, VIP matic relations between Japan and the People’s Republic of China. It guests moved to a big building that had been set up for the festival was a kaleidoscope of song, dance, speech, combat and acrobatics. where they could check out the photo history of Thailand and many The sets, costumes and makeup were spectacular. (Jackie Chan, by of the lifetime accomplishments of their late great, highly respected, the way, came from a Peking Opera background.) much loved king Bhumibol. Everyone enjoyed the bountiful Thai After the show guests had the opportunity to meet, mix and enjoy buffet, and mixing and meeting with the many high powered guests a lavish buffet with the cast. Many didn’t speak English, but those there that day. who did helped us communicate. It was great and I feel that if I get to Happy to say the weather cleared up on Sunday and Yoyogi was Beijing, I will have some great new friends there. packed with people enjoying the food, shows by top Thai entertainers, At the party I met Soka Gakkai liaison officer Joan M. Anderson, a kick boxing exhibition, the “Thai village” and the warm happy am- and she told me a long-time friend, jazz musician Herbie Hancock, biance of the truly great Thai happening. recently published a book he wrote together with the head of the Our Thai and friends from other members of the Association of religious group, Daisaku Ikeda. I also had the privilege of meeting Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN), which was founded in Bangkok and getting to know another great showbiz personality, Tina Turner, August 8, 1967, are celebrating their 50th anniversary. The many ac- who’s also a member of Soka Gakkai. She was doing concerts in Ma- tivities to celebrate included an exhibition of photographs portraying nila when I was visiting there. ASEAN’s busy calendar of all kinds of worthwhile projects. The exhibition of photos by her Royal Highness Princess Maria Chakri Sirind- ham portraying ASEAN activities over the years was a big success at AZERBAIJAN NATIONAL DAY RECEPTION the Thai festival 2017. Our congratulations to all concerned. In the Okura Hotel’s luxurious Orchard Room, Azerbaijan Ambassa- dor Gursel Ismayilzade and his lovely wife Rana hosted a reception ROTARY CLUB MEMORIAL CONCERT on the occasion of their Republic Day and 25th anniversary of the FOR GRACE SAITO establishment of diplomatic relations between Azerbaijan and Japan. I enjoyed a superb Japanese lunch at the Peninsula recently The program opened with a lady from Azerbaijan dressed in with Saitama business tycoon Tsukasa Shiga and Rotary Club national costume singing the national anthems of the hosting coun- International director Hiroaki Kobayashi. I’ve known Shiga since he try and Japan. This was followed by a very informative welcoming was a student at St. Mary’s and Hiroaki since his days as a leading speech by the host. It was a colorful gathering with several of the exec at several top hotels. In between the many courses I had children there wearing national costumes. Azerbaijani women, as the opportunity to bring up the possibility of a charity concert in you can see by the photos, are wonderfully fashionable – at another memory of the late and great Grace Saito. A true philanthropist, she recent party Rana wore a dynamic dress by Issey Miyake, and for her had over the years supported some of the Rotary’s many projects national day reception, she wore an original Italian creation. The by donating the proceeds from the many classical concerts she Ismayilzades are a very popular couple, and it was wall to wall sponsored. Kobayashi liked the idea and a few months later interesting people enjoying the relaxing special celebration.

Tokyo Weekender Editor Alec Jordan, Le Monde’s World renowned diabetics doctor Kempei Charo and Bill Ireton, Natsuko Toda, actress Diane Philippe Mesmer, Kit Nagamura, and Imperial Hotel Matsuoka, his daughter Sachiko Yuasa, Lane, Teruyo Nogami, and Eleanor Coppola President Hideya Sadayasu at the Imperial Hotel’s Frank her daughters Sakura and Aoi, and his wife Lloyd Wright 150th Anniversary Exhibition Yasue at Saiseikai’s reopening festival

TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST 2017 | 45

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