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A Day in the Life of a Rickshaw Driver, Summer Cruises in Tokyo, and Who Is the Greatest Japanese Person Ever?

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A Day in the Life of a Rickshaw Driver, Summer Cruises in Tokyo, and Who Is the Greatest Japanese Person Ever? AUGUST 2017 Japan’s number one English language magazine CRAVING AN ISLAND GETAWAY? IT'S CLOSER THAN YOU THINK... PLUS: A Day in the Life of a Rickshaw Driver, Summer Cruises in Tokyo, and Who is the Greatest Japanese Person Ever? 20 14 23 28 AUGUST 2017 radar in-depth 30 HOW "ASIAN BOSS" IS EXPLODING CULTURAL STEREOTYPES THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS COFFEE-BREAK READS And getting Tokyoites to open up. 8 AREA GUIDE: KURAMAE 20 SEEKING WHITE SAND How this Edo period neighborhood has sus- Craving an island getaway? Here are three 32 WHO IS THE GREATEST JAPANESE tained its relevance through craftsmanship. destinations in Japan that should be on the PERSON EVER? list of “Asia’s best beaches.” The results are in: we count down the top 15. 10 STYLE Get the vacation look with chic items for 23 THAT OUTDOOR IZAKAYA FEELING beach getaways and summer sundowners. Street-pub dining is the best way to enjoy Tokyo’s balmy summer nights. Create your guide 12 TRENDS own balcony izakaya dinner with these four CULTURE ROUNDUP Rooftops, pools, cocktails and beers: find simple traditional recipes. 37 ART & EVENTS your perfect outdoor drinks spot. Yokohama Triennale, Arcimboldo, and 26 FIVE UNIQUE SUMMER CRUISES stretching the bounds of possibility. 14 TRAVEL Free your mind from the hectic city by Meet some of Japan's top artisans in one of setting sail on Tokyo’s waterways. 40 AGENDA the world's most famous industrial regions. Awaodori, samba, ghosts, and the all-night 28 A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A concert of Sonic Mania. 18 THE CONCIERGE RICKSHAW DRIVER Editor's picks from our roundup of top res- We chat with a veteran "shafu" about the 42 SOCIETY taurants, salons, and services in the city. best, worst, and weirdest parts of the job. Tokyo's longest-running social column. AUGUST 2017 Publisher ENGAWA Co., Ltd. President Takanobu Ushiyama Executive Producer Naoya Takahashi Editor in Chief Annemarie Luck Senior Editors Alec Jordan Lisa Wallin Creative Director Liam Ramshaw Features Writer Matthew Hernon Contributors Vivian Morelli Bill Hersey Bunny Bissoux Sales Director Takaaki Murai Sales Executives Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Ayane Sugawara Azusa Yoshida Marketing Director Jessica Yumi Idomoto Media Consultant Mary Rudow Media Producers Claudia Sun Yuda Chou Cover photo by Yumi Idomoto EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku Tokyo, Japan 151-0051 (03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax) [email protected] To subscribe to Tokyo Weekender, please visit www.tokyoweekender.com/subscribe For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6432-9948 or email: [email protected] 広告に関するお問い合わせ先 電話：(03) 6432-9948 メール：[email protected] Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 4 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER @bapawn: I have to admit, after reading Matthew genki even when he’s running tourists around Asakusa Hernon’s survey of the greatest Japanese people in for hours on end! I really enjoyed reading about him history [page 32], I was truly surprised by the winner. [page 28]. @mizrama: I think everyone in the office was. It’s @mizrama: That is one of Japan’s charms, isn’t it. The always refreshing when people don’t just vote for the ability to stay, or at least appear, genki no matter what usual suspects. Who would you nominate? kind of customer you’re dealing with. @bapawn: Probably someone like Tokugawa, who @bapawn: And if that’s one standard for greatness, ended up truly shaping the direction of Japanese history, I think that there need to be a lot more Number Ones or Murasaki Shikibu, the author of The Tale of Genji. handed out! Depending on whom you ask, it’s one of the first novels in history. But I might be a little old-fashioned. @mizrama: Absolutely! When I visited Tokashiki Island [page 20], I was so bowled over by the warmth of the @mizrama: Well, it makes sense that people look to the guesthouse owner. In the first hour we were there, she past and to dramatic historical events for this kind of basically told us her life story, and by the time we left, I subject. But there are also so many unsung heroes who felt almost like part of her family. deserve a mention. In this month’s Niigata travel feature [page 14], for example, we met an 85-year-old craftsman who has been working as a blacksmith since he was @bapawn: Did that end up swaying your vote for best 15. He is undoubtedly one of Japan’s most dedicated beach in Japan? artisans. @mizrama: I think it might have swayed my vote for @bapawn: Or the rickshaw driver who manages to stay best beach in the world! VISIT OUR WEBSITE JOIN US ON FACEBOOK FOLLOW US ON TWITTER FIND US ON INSTAGRAM WWW.TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM FACEBOOK.COM/TOKYO.WEEKENDER @TOKYO_WEEKENDER TOKYOWEEKENDER TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST 2017 | 5 Where to find Door to Door Pickup Service TOKYO WEEKENDER MAGAZINE 24 Hour Staff Supervision One daycare visit available Open 365 Days No Cages WANT TO MAKE SURE YOU PICK UP A COPY EVERY MONTH? HERE’S WHERE TO GET YOUR HANDS ON THE MAG DOWNLOAD VENUES AROUND TOKYO SUBSCRIBE Athletic Dog Club co., Ltd. 1F 1-8-18 Akatsutsumi, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 156-0044 !"#$%&'('')*(+&&'%%%%[email protected] Tel: 03-3327-1003 I Fax: 03-3327-7407 | E: [email protected] MORE INFORMATION AT WWW.TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM ,-.$%&'('))*(*/&* www4.ocn.ne.jp/~adc www.pethoteltokyo.com (Japanese) | http://adc.pipi.cc (English) 6 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... Poolside cocktails and rooftop beer gardens, a crafty neighborhood guide, and a journey to Niigata to meet some of Japan's top metalworking artisans. TOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDERWEEKENDER || AUGUSTAUGUST 2017 | 7 AREA GUIDE CRAFT A STRATEGY FOR KURAMAE Words and photographs by Luca Eandi This Edo period neighborhood on the Sumida River made its name as a storage site for rice but has sustained relevance into the present through craftsmanship AGAINST THE GRAIN Located on the Sumida River, Kuramae was once a hub for rice granaries, and that’s where it gets its name – kura is “storage houses” and mae is “in front of.” A couple centu- ries ago, rice was a currency, so Kuramae was a banking district of sorts. As rice downshifted to a commodity and distribution centers disseminated, artisans and craftsmen moved into the neighborhood, taking over warehouses and turning them into workspaces and shops. The proximity to the river still makes this area highly attractive, as in-town- ers relish the opportunity to stroll or jog along the Sumida River Terrace and enjoy the open space. Kuramae Shrine, established at the nexus of the neighborhood’s economic boom in 1694, is also a hallowed landmark. SHE’S CRAFTY There’s a whole slew of showrooms to admire the best that Kuramae has to offer in the way of crafts and artisanal products. Yuichiro Murakami’s shop, M+, deals in leather goods, a trade he spent years in Italy learning and whose mastery is manifested in a variety of beautiful bags, wallets and func- tional accessories. Kakimori is a stationery store that carries the tools needed to keep the art of letter-writing alive and well. For fabrics, Maito ex- clusively sells products dyed using the kusaki-zome technique – extracting liquids from flowers, roots and leaves. Mokuba specializes in ribbons and offers endless options for wrapping gifts in style. For trendy homewares look for Koncent, curated by renowned design consulting group, H Concept. 8 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER POUR SOME SUGAR ON ME No reputable Tokyo neighborhood is com- plete without its share of coffee shops and intimate cafés, and Kuramae has both in heaps. Camera has good coffee and food, as well as a nice showroom of leather goods to peruse while you wait. Sol’s Coffee also does double duty, operating out of the Koncent homewares store. Square Café, Coffee Nova and Splendor Coffee round out the list of the neighborhood’s notable roasted bean breweries. For sweets, you won’t be let down by Dandelion Chocolate Factory & Café, a recent San Francisco transplant dealing in boutique chocolate, cookies and even booze. For more traditional Japanese confectioner- ies, Eikyudo has a variety of wagashi sweets they’ve been selling since 1887. ALL NIGHT THING TOYS IN THE ATTIC From grabbing a quick lunch to settling in In addition to crafts, Kuramae is also home for dinner all the way to downing late-night to a number of notable toy stores. Yoshichi drinks, Kuramae has you covered. Genraku Kimura has a variety of traditional kites, hand Sohonten is a good ramen spot, specializ- fans and wooden kokeshi dolls. Yamagata and ing in the tonkotsu variety. For a sandwich, Isobe Mitsuru are both stocked to the gills McLean Old Burger Shack serves up with vintage Super Robots, model trains and satisfying meaty fare. Further south towards toy cars. Gun Mall has almost-too-realistic Asakusabashi, Hapa is the rare Tokyo restau- replicas of firearms and all-too-real airsoft rant that caters to the gluten-free crowd with weapons for cosplayers and enthusiasts generous portions of celiac-friendly pasta and alike. Mainstays Bandai and Epoch have their soba noodles. Elegant Cielo y Rio lets you headquarters in the neighborhood as well. On dine with a great view of the river on multi- the decorating side, Saiga and Kishi’s Party ple levels. If you want to make it an all-night- Store offers banners, balloons and ornaments er, Nui Hostel and Bar Lounge has a great to suit any special occasion and holiday, while bar on the ground level, and after you’ve had Hanabiya and Matsuki will supply festive and one too many, you can go upstairs and sleep colorful ordnance for summertime fireworks.
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