Gender Equality in the Global Garment Industry

Highlights of the Better Work Strategy 2018–2022 “Peace, prosperity and social justice depend on the achievement of substantive equality between women and men.” — GUY RYDER ILO DIRECTOR GENERAL Gender equality: The opportunity The global garment industry has the potential to lift millions of women and men out of poverty worldwide, and can advance gender equality. This can only happen if decent, good quality jobs are available. Our research has demonstrated that when all workers, men and women, are treated fairly and have decent jobs, everyone benefits: the workers themselves, their employers, the industry, and the local and national economies. Good quality jobs catalyze women’s economic empowerment, offer social protection and measures to balance work and family, and operate in an environment free from discrimination and harassment. The absence of these conditions impedes women’s access to decent jobs. Better Work – a collaboration between the United Nation’s International Labour Organization (ILO) and the International Finance Corporation (IFC), a member of the World Bank Group - brings together all levels of the garment industry to improve working conditions and boost the competitiveness of apparel businesses. Since its establishment, the programme has it comes to their wages, conditions of work, impacted three million workers across eight benefits (including maternity protection and garment-producing countries throughout the threat of dismissal upon pregnancy status) world. Of these, the vast majority are young and promotion. women who represent 79 per cent of work- Better Work is committed to working with ers in Better Work factories and dominate partners to address these challenges, helping the workforce throughout the sector. Better ensure quality jobs in the global garment Work has conducted extensive analysis of industry helping advance gender equality the garment industry to learn more about and realize the development potential that these workers. They are typically under the these jobs hold. age of 30, and many migrate to start their first formal job in a garment factory. Women While addressing gender issues has always tend to be employed in unskilled, low-val- been a component of Better Work, our recent ue occupations, such as sewing machine impact assessment showed that empow- operators and helpers in the production ering women is not only a key outcome of process, whereas men are more likely to be the programme, but is also critical for the employed in higher-wage jobs and in lead- achievement of our overall objectives. As ership positions. Because of harmful cultur- a result, Better Work is renewing its strate- al and gender norms, women workers are gic focus on gender equality and women’s often subjected to sexual harassment during economic empowerment by putting women recruitment and at the workplace, and they centre stage in all aspects of our work. are frequently discriminated against when Challenges to gender equality in Better Work factories

Despite our success in improving working Sexual harassment conditions and empowering women in the Due to occupational segregation workplace, several deep-rooted challenges to and incentive systems in factories, sexual harassment is widespread gender equality remain in factories participating in in the global garment industry. the Better Work programme. This reflects trends Because of negative cultural identified in the garment industry at large as well norms, fear on the part of victims, as more broadly in the countries where we operate. the lack of functional reporting mechanisms, and a tendency to view this behaviour as “normal”, Occupational segregation Gender-based sexual harassment is largely Women tend to be concentrated discrimination upon underreported. However, our in certain low-paying, low-skilled recruitment confidential surveys showed sectors such as the garment Although pregnancy tests and that, as Better Work began industry, and within it, are often contraceptives are rarely used as a operations, an average of 36 per stuck in lower paying occupations condition for employment in Better cent of interviewed workers were such as sewing machine Work country programmes, more concerned with sexual harassment operators and helpers. Due to subtle forms of pregnancy-based in their factories. stereotypes regarding women’s discrimination are widespread. In and men’s aspirations, preferences addition, in Cambodia and Jordan, Working hours and capabilities, employers’ we found that men often face Garment production is often perceptions of women’s and men’s discrimination in recruitment due characterized by long working skills and attitudes are affected. to stereotypes, for example, that hours and overtime, putting an This trend has been strengthened garment sector work is women’s extra burden on women who over the last two decades: as work and that men are more likely serve as primary caregivers in their garment production becomes to be ‘troublemakers.’ families and communities. more technology-intensive, occupations become increasingly Gender wage gap Supervisory roles skilled and better paid, employing The difference in pay between Women continue to be significantly a higher proportion of men. women and men for work of under-represented in supervisory equal value is particularly linked roles relative to their share in total to the predominance of working employment in the sector. mothers, who often face additional care responsibilities and therefore suffer from a significantly reduced earning capacity. CONSIDERATIONS

Pregnancy-related healthcare Few Better Work countries have legislation that allows pregnant workers to access antenatal care without salary deductions. The frequent use of short-term contracts puts pregnant women in a vulnerable position, often missing out on maternity leave benefits. While all Better Work countries have maternity benefits enshrined in their laws, only Bangladesh and Vietnam offer maternity leave beyond the 14 weeks required by ILO Convention 183. Whether or not maternity Two considerations should be taken into leave is paid depends on the account in our work on gender equality: worker’s seniority. Breastfeeding breaks are also guaranteed by First, bringing about change does not rest on the labour law, but are not always paid. shoulders of women alone. Men’s role in breaking barriers and stereotypes, sharing care and other Trade Union responsibilities and actively supporting the voice and representation leadership of women in all aspects of their lives and While women workers are organizations is key. To sustainably change gender increasingly becoming represen- inequalities in societies, the engagement of men and tatives at the factory level, they are boys is crucial. If large numbers of men are to support still not being equally represented. and implement gender equality initiatives in Better Work, Also, leadership positions in union it will be necessary to speak in concrete, positive ways to confederations and federations their concerns, interests, hopes and problems. are still largely dominated by men. Second, we recognize that women and men are not This is partly due to widely-rec- single, homogeneous populations. Women and men ognized gender ideologies, as may face layers of discrimination that overlap based on well as to the reality that women their socioeconomic status, sexual orientation, gender are still expected to assume the identity, ethnicity, religion, disability, migration status, majority of childcare responsi- family responsibility and age. These different social bilities after they return home, categorizations are particularly relevant in certain Better discouraging them from serving as Work country contexts and should be fully integrated in trade union representatives. country programmes’ gender strategies. WHAT HAS WORKED IN ACHIEVING GENDER EQUALITY Better Work has had a measurable positive impact on addressing the challenges outlined above and promoting gender equality. Evidence from surveys of more than 15,000 workers and 2,000 managers across five countries shows that since the programme’s establishment:

Better Work has decreased Improvements in working the gender pay gap by up conditions are more to 17%, reduced sexual significant when harassment concerns women are freely by up to 18%, and increased elected and fairly women’s access to prenatal represented on worker – care by as much as 26%. management committees.

Quality jobs for women have Female supervisors trained knock-on development by Better Work achieved impacts including higher a 22% increase in income, better health productivity on for workers and their family their line. A workplace members and improved free of harassment also education for workers’ children. leads to higher profitability. BUILDING ON SUCCESS: Our vision for achieving gender equality

Better Work aims for a society where women and men have equal and decent work opportunities, are free from gender-based violence and discrimination, and are able to access their rights, fulfil their potential and direct their futures. By the end of 2022, Better Work seeks to more effectively promote gender equality and women’s economic empowerment in the global garment supply chain at the factory level, and by influencing and strengthening policies, institutions and practices at the national, regional and global levels. Toward this vision, Better Work will increase its gender responsiveness through embedding gender equality themes into our factory services, policy engagement activities, research and communications. We will also drive gender responsiveness from within by strengthening our internal training and learning processes to champion gender equality among ourselves.

Our current and future work is structured around the following gender equality themes:

Discrimination Paid Work & Care Voice & Representation Leadership & Preventing sexual Sexual and reproductive Representation of women workers Skill Development harassment; tackling health and rights in factories’ committees (including Career opportunities in contractual discrimination (including pregnancy related Better Work’s worker – management factories (e.g. line supervisors (e.g. recruitment and healthcare and nutrition); committees) and trade unions, and management positions); occupational segregation); maternity protection; union federations, and employer leadership positions in bridging the gender wage gap breastfeeding; childcare organizations; voice in collective governments, trade unions bargaining processes and employers organizations; financial literacy and household budget planning THE BETTER WORK Approach to change Our targeted areas of intervention prioritize Influencing National women’s economic empowerment across all our and Global Policy activities. By focusing on the four gender themes on Gender Equality Given the significance of the gar- in our daily work, we will be able to advance the ment sector in the countries where gender equality agenda and maximize our impact in Better Work operates, the industry improving working conditions and productivity as a provides a strong entry point to build whole in the global garment supply chain. more effective national institutions, strengthen public—private partner- ships and address policy gaps. In-Factory Services Global Supply The heart of Better Work lies in its Chain (GSC) Engagement Better Work is well-positioned interactions with garment work- Our factory-level evidence on the to strengthen public institutions ers, employers, labour inspectors, prevalence of sexual harassment, through partnerships with different manufacturers and brands. Better the dynamics of discrimination stakeholders, including national Work will advance gender equality and career advancement, and at- governments, trade unions and and women’s economic empower- titudes towards maternity protec- employer organizations. Govern- ment by addressing gender norms tion allows us to influence global ments are primarily responsible for through our factory-level services brands and retailers to focus on enforcing and strengthening laws (assessment, advisory and train- women’s economic empowerment and regulations, including through ing). By strengthening the gender and change business cultures and ratification of relevant ILO Conven- focus of our assessments, we will practices in their supply chains. tions; this means they are uniquely improve our ability to identify and Better Work is in a strong position situated to advance gender equality deal with the wide range of gender to work with brands and manufac- and empower women economically. issues in factories, including partic- turers to promote gender-sensitive Trade unions and employer orga- ularly sensitive topics such global supply chain practices. nizations have a key role to play in as workplace sexual harassment. ensuring women’s voices are heard We will continue to address Due to our unique positioning in and that there is a fair representation non-compliance through our advi- the global garment supply chain as in their constituencies and leader- sory services, ensuring visibility and a catalyst for change, Better Work is ships, especially in an industry with fair representation of women in so- also well placed to create synergies such a high female participation cial dialogue. Through advisory ser- and partnerships with other orga- in the labour market. At the global vices and training, we will continue nizations at the local and global level, as the ILO and the World Bank to promote skill development and level who have particular expertise Group will strengthen collaboration expand initiatives to build women’s on the identified gender themes on complementary policies fostering confidence, leadership and career which fall beyond our programme’s decent work and competitiveness, opportunities, such as through our core competencies. We will forge they will contribute to creating an supervisory skills training. new alliances in the supply chain to enabling environment that catalyzes advance our objectives. women’s economic empowerment. Better Work’s unique research PROMOTING GENDER EQUALITY WITHIN THE BETTER WORK TEAM In order to be even more effective in our factory-facing work, we are committed findings and data are used for to strengthening the capacity of our team on gender equality by investing in awareness raising at the factory, training and learning opportunities for our staff. More broadly, we also carry the industry and national levels, as responsibility to contribute to improving the public sector practices in employ- well as for campaigns and other ment of women and men, and creating and guaranteeing decent jobs. As part communications channels con- of a standard-setting organization, Better Work practices what it advocates. tributing to informing the global The Better Work team is addressing gender norms to guarantee a workplace policy dialogue on the Sustainable free of (sexual) harassment. We recognize the challenges of combining paid Development Goals (SDGs). Better work and care and adjust our workplace and working conditions to allow women and men to live equally fulfilling lives as workers and care providers. Work’s unique convening power of In employment, the team is committed to promote the leadership and skills participants in the global garment and career development of women. supply chain will be harnessed to influence gender norms. GENDER EQUALITY THEMES

Discrimination Paid Work Voice & Leadership & & Care Representation Skill Development

AREAS OF Business Practices in Policy and Practice at National, INTERVENTION Global Garment Supply Chain Regional and Global Level

In Factory Influencing National Global Services GSC actors level level

OUTPUTS Awareness raising for all Partnerships with Partnerships with Advocacy campaign workers on gender equality global brands and national stakeholders for gender responsive Women trained to retailers to scale and advocacy policies and practices, increase career advance- up initiatives for campaign for gender especially on gender- ment opportunities gender equality in responsive policies based violence the garment GSC and practices Women trained to play proactive roles in worker – management committees and trade unions

OUTCOMES Reduced gender Gender-responsive Stronger women’s Evidence-based discrimination violations, policies and practices voice and global policy making e.g. decrease in gender adopted in the supply representation on gender equality wage gap and in work- chain beyond Better Strengthened legal ILO standard on place sexual harassment Work factories, incl. frameworks to gender-based More women in leadership on care, SRHR, nutrition combat forms violence adopted positions in factories and pre/post-natal care of discrimination More women trained and Global supply chain empowered to play actor commitment proactive roles in trade to support national unions and worker – and global policy level management committees discussions

IMPACT A workplace free of discrimination, including of violence and harassment Improved health awareness and stronger agency for women workers Stronger women’s voice and representation in social dialogue mechanisms at factory, sector and national levels Women in leadership positions in factories and among tripartite constituents OPERATIONALIZING THE STRATEGY

RESEARCH, COMMUNICATIONS INTERNAL IN-FACTORY & POLICY PROCESSES SERVICES INFLUENCE PARTNERSHIPS

Staff Scale up of sexual Research on Collaboration with national training harassment gender equality governments on gender responsive prevention training impacts policy and legal frameworks Internal awareness- Scale up of supervisory Advocacy Capacity building for trade raising skills training for campaign unions and employer organizations campaign women supervisors on gender responsiveness Informing Quotas for women ILO and Leverage of brands’ priorites and representation in IFC/World Bank access to drive change for gender advisory and PICCs policies equality in their supply chains

Deeper investigation Collaboration with global and of discrimination in local NGOs on SRHR, nutrition, assessments breastfeeding and pre/post-natal healthcare, financial literacy

A more equitable workplace is within our grasp While serious challenges remain to achieving full gender equality in the world’s garment factories, significant progress has been made. The success of our model for improving working conditions through women’s empowerment has been validated by third-party research. Now we are leveraging this success, and our learnings from the research, to scale up positive impact on gender equality and achieve lasting change. We will report back to all stakeholders on our progress as we continue to refine our vision and implement this strategy. For regular updates, case studies and new research findings, visit our website and follow us on social media. betterwork.org @Better_Work BetterWorkProgramme ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The gender strategy was written by Nyske Janssen and Arianna Rossi with contributions by Yuki Kobayashi, Kaitlyn Swain and Inthira Tirangkura. Additional comments and guidance were provided by Better Work staff at ILO, IFC and country teams. We gratefully acknowledge comments by colleagues in the ILO Gender, Equality and Diversity team (Shauna Olney, Eric Carlson, Raphael Crowe and Joni Simpson), and members of the Better Work Global Advisory Committee. Claire Anholt Duthuit edited the document and oversaw its design. The photos are by Marcel Crozet. Research findings cited in the report come from Brown, DK et al. (2016) “Impact evaluation of Better Work: A Report from Tufts University,” unless otherwise stated. The Better Work Global programme is supported by participating brands and factories, and the following key donor partners (in alphabetical order): Australia (Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, DFAT) Denmark (Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Danida) Germany (Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development, BMZ) Netherlands (Ministry of Foreign Affairs, MFA) Switzerland (State Secretariat for Economic Affairs, SECO) United States (US Department of Labor, USDOL)