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OFF-PISTE BURGUNDY: a Few Additional Years of Bottle Age

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OFF-PISTE BURGUNDY: a Few Additional Years of Bottle Age Burgundy value meant to be drunk within a year or two of the ‘The wines from vintage, they do show good development with OFF-PISTE BURGUNDY: a few additional years of bottle age. St-Bris have a unique Guilhem Goisot, one of the top producers in St-Bris, believes the origins of Sauvignon Blanc VALUE ALTERNATIVES minerality, some almost here can be explained by economics: plant what grows. He explains that, unlike in the The two regional appellations of Coteaux Bourguignons and Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains a lava-like quality’ Côte d’Or, where the vineyards basically face in and the white wine-only St-Bris take Burgundy beyond the pure Pinot Noir and Chardonnay one direction – east-southeast – the vineyards in the Auxerrois are planted on hillsides with Dr Michael Apstein is classics for which it is famed. Michael Apstein explains what lies behind these under-the- varying exposures. The south-facing vineyards a widely published radar styles – and why they could become the more reasonably priced face of Burgundy mandates Sauvignon Blanc – before 2003, are warm enough for Chardonnay and Pinot and awarded wine when it was promoted to AC status, its wines Noir. The north side of the hills are too cool for writer, educator and were labelled as Sauvignon de St-Bris. Second, those grapes but can support Sauvignon Blanc. competition judge, the wines do not taste like Sauvignon Blanc. Why then does Chardonnay thrive on the publishing his work at They have neither the pungent nor tropical north-facing slopes of Chablis, barely 16km www.apsteinonwine. ven serious fans of Burgundy may styles offer distinctive wines at attractive prices. The tiny village of fruitiness characteristic of New World away? Hervé Tucki, the experienced and com. He is also an be unfamiliar with St-Bris, It’s my belief that these wines will increasingly St-Bris-Le-Vineux Sauvignon Blanc. They do not even bear much knowledgeable director of La Chablisienne, assistant professor of Coteaux Bourguignons and begin to appear on retailers’ shelves, in the Auxerrois resemblance to Sancerre, which is also made the excellent cooperative in Chablis, thinks medicine at Harvard Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains. In a especially as the prices of ‘regular’ Burgundy exclusively from Sauvignon Blanc, lies only the difference may be attributable to the Medical School E region famous for its rigid devotion to vineyard continue to escalate – so their names should 128km west in the Loire Valley’s central precise mixture of clay and limestone in the sites identified by Cistercian monks eight be in the lexicon of all Burgundy enthusiasts. vineyards, and whose soil has a similar mix soils, or to a subtle temperature difference centuries ago, these three appellations – and of Kimmeridgian limestone and clay. between the Yonne Valley of Auxerre and the the wide variety of grape varieties they allow – The wines from St-Bris have a unique Serein Valley of Chablis. Indeed, before demonstrate Burgundy’s ability to adapt to the St-Bris minerality, some almost a lava-like quality, with phylloxera ravaged the area in the late 19th subtleties wrought by the passage of time. Taking its name from St-Bris-le-Vineux, a tiny bright acidity and an attractive bite. They are century, St-Bris grew Chardonnay and was Although they may currently be harder to village in the Auxerrois to the southeast of the similar to Muscadet, but with more body and eventually included within the Chablis find than the wines from Burgundy’s long roll town of Auxerre, St-Bris is doubly unique. density, especially in recent vintages as climate appellation. Tucki offers, with a Gallic shrug: call of better-known appellations, these three First, it’s the only place in Burgundy that St-Bris-Le-Vineux BIVB Photograph: change has enhanced ripening. Although ‘The origin of Sauvignon Blanc in St-Bris is a ➢ 26 | July 2020 • Decanter Decanter • July 2020 | 27 Burgundy value ST-BRIS: little mysterious.’ Whatever the reason, I THE FACTS predict we’ll see more of these riveting wines Area 160ha as climate change aids ripening in these Primary grapes northern climes. Sauvignon Blanc, Together, the 2017 and 2018 vintages of Sauvignon Gris St-Bris provide something for everyone. The Soil Portlandian 2017s are racier, while the 2018s are a little bit and Kimmeridgian rounder but maintain an invigorating bite. limestone In addition to Goisot, other domaines I Wines White only recommend include Clotilde Davenne, Félix, Average production Philippe Defrance, PL & JF Bersan, Séverine & Approximately 90,000 Lionel Jacquet, Verret and the cooperative 12-bottle cases Caves Bailly Lapierre. The notable Chablis producers, William Fèvre and Simonnet- COTEAUX Febvre, also make lovely St-Bris. BOURGUIGNONS: THE FACTS WINES TO TRY 1 Area 270ha Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot, Primary grapes La Ronce, St-Bris 2017 94 White Chardonnay, £18.99 Domaine Direct Aligoté, Melon de La Ronce vineyard sits on a hill that has both north Bourgogne, Pinot and south exposures, hence both Sauvignon Blanc Blanc, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay grow there. The soil is a mixture of Red Pinot Noir, Gamay, Kimmeridgian limestone and clay, yet there’s more César (a rare variety power here than in Goisot’s other St-Bris. Purity planted in the and a touch of spice complement that power, while Auxerrois) brilliant acidity keeps it fresh and lively. It’s a Soil Diverse, covering big-impact wine without a trace of heaviness. all of Burgundy from Biodynamic. Drink 2020-2024 Alcohol 12.5% the Auxerre in the north Auxerrois. Delicate floral notes grab your attention; two decades. The lower-yielding Sauvignon Gris Coteaux Above: Joseph Drouhin to Beaujolais Domaine Séverine & Lionel Jacquet, St-Bris 2018 93 good depth, impeccable balance and an alluring used for the Corps de Garde is thought to provide vines producing fruit for Wines Red, white or N/A UK www.domaine-jacquet.com minerally bite hold onto it. A persistent finish, with more substance. The wine comes from a variety of Bourguignons Coteaux Bourguignons rosé (which can also be Founded in 2002 with 2.8ha, based in the village of an attractive subtle bitterness, makes it a perfect vineyards composed of Kimmeridgian limestone labelled Coteaux Chitry, near Chablis, and now expanded to 16ha. The choice for shellfish. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 12.5% mixed with clay. This fresh and pure 2017 vintage In 2011, Coteaux Bourguignons replaced Bourguignons Clairet) Jacquets started producing St-Bris in 2011, and they delivers lava-like nuances. Crisp and cutting, it has Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, a category of Average production are clearly fast learners, since this 2018 St-Bris won a Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot, Corps de Garde, remarkable depth. At the same time, its refinement wine rarely exported to either the UK or the Approximately 160,000 gold medal at the 29th Concours des Vins du Grand St-Bris 2017 93 is apparent in its incredible finish. Drink 2020-2023 US (how something can be both grand and 12-bottle cases £23.49 Beckford Bottle Shop, Domaine Direct, Les Caves Alc 12.5% ordinary is beyond me). An all-encompassing de Pyrene, Middle Lane Market, The Crouch End Cellars, appellation, it stretches from Auxerre in the BOURGOGNE Woodhead Shop 2 Bailly Lapierre, St-Bris 2018 92 north to Beaujolais in the south. Wines can be PASSE-TOUT- Goisot, a family-owned estate, makes fabulous wines N/A UK www.bailly-lapierre.fr red, white or rosé and made from a single across its range, and has farmed biodynamically for This cooperative of about 430 growers is best known grape variety or a blend of approved grapes GRAINS: for its Crémant de Bourgogne, but it also makes a (see ‘The facts’, left). In short, the wines can be THE FACTS lovely St-Bris. The 2018 took a silver medal at the made from any grape traditionally grown in Area 232ha 29th Concours des Vins du Grand Auxerrois. any part of Burgundy. Primary grapes 1 2 3 Exhibiting delicate nuances of white flowers, its Part of the motivation for creating this new Pinot Noir (minimum allure is immediate, and it dazzles with its bright appellation was to help growers in economically one-third), Gamay – stony impact. Wonderful acidity, especially given distressed Beaujolais. Coteaux Bourguignons grapes mixed the vintage, makes it a pleasure to drink now – allows them to sell wines with ‘Bourgogne’ on before vinification particularly with sushi. Drink 2020 Alc 12.5% the label. However, notes Axel Joubert, estate Soil Mostly limestone/ manager at Château de Raousset in Chiroubles: clay for Pinot Noir and 3 Domaine PL & JF Bersan, Cuvée Marianne, ‘For the poorer producers, Coteaux Bourguignon granitic for Gamay St-Bris 2018 92 is not a saviour.’ Others see unintended Wines Red, rarely rosé N/A UK www.domainebersan.com consequences. One well-respected producer Average production This father-and-son team’s 2018 Cuvée Marianne is in Morgon, who prefers to remain anonymous Approximately 130,000 from 45-year-old vines planted on both Portlandian so as not to antagonise his neighbours, 12-bottle cases and Kimmeridgian limestone mixed with clay. emphasises with dramatic gestures that make Source: BIVB – area figures as of 2018; average production as five- Dense, but not heavy, it has aromas and flavours of his opinion clear even to those who do not year averages from 2014-2018 wet stones. Invigorating acidity balances the understand French: ‘It will kill Beaujolais.’ ripeness of the vintage and amplifies a steely finish. In contrast, Louis-Fabrice Latour, co-president Guilhem Goisot Photographs: Romain Beaumont; Joseph Drouhin Joseph Beaumont; Romain Photographs: Drink 2020-2022 Alc 12.5% of the BIVB (Bureau Interprofessionnel des ➢ 28 | July 2020 • Decanter Decanter • July 2020 | 29 Burgundy value young.
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