Burgundy value

meant to be drunk within a year or two of the ‘The from vintage, they do show good development with OFF-PISTE BURGUNDY: a few additional years of bottle age. St-Bris have a unique Guilhem Goisot, one of the top producers in St-Bris, believes the origins of Sauvignon Blanc VALUE ALTERNATIVES minerality, some almost here can be explained by economics: plant what grows. He explains that, unlike in the The two regional appellations of Coteaux Bourguignons and Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains a lava-like quality’ Côte d’Or, where the vineyards basically face in and the white -only St-Bris take Burgundy beyond the pure and one direction – east-southeast – the vineyards in the Auxerrois are planted on hillsides with Dr Michael Apstein is classics for which it is famed. Michael Apstein explains what lies behind these under-the- varying exposures. The south-facing vineyards a widely published radar styles – and why they could become the more reasonably priced face of Burgundy mandates Sauvignon Blanc – before 2003, are warm enough for Chardonnay and Pinot and awarded wine when it was promoted to AC status, its wines Noir. The north side of the hills are too cool for writer, educator and were labelled as Sauvignon de St-Bris. Second, those grapes but can support Sauvignon Blanc. competition judge, the wines do not taste like Sauvignon Blanc. Why then does Chardonnay thrive on the publishing his work at They have neither the pungent nor tropical north-facing slopes of Chablis, barely 16km www.apsteinonwine. ven serious fans of Burgundy may styles offer distinctive wines at attractive prices. The tiny village of fruitiness characteristic of New World away? Hervé Tucki, the experienced and com. He is also an be unfamiliar with St-Bris, It’s my belief that these wines will increasingly St-Bris-Le-Vineux Sauvignon Blanc. They do not even bear much knowledgeable director of La Chablisienne, assistant professor of Coteaux Bourguignons and begin to appear on retailers’ shelves, in the Auxerrois resemblance to Sancerre, which is also made the excellent cooperative in Chablis, thinks medicine at Harvard Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains. In a especially as the prices of ‘regular’ Burgundy exclusively from Sauvignon Blanc, lies only the difference may be attributable to the Medical School E region famous for its rigid devotion to vineyard continue to escalate – so their names should 128km west in the Loire Valley’s central precise mixture of clay and limestone in the sites identified by Cistercian monks eight be in the lexicon of all Burgundy enthusiasts. vineyards, and whose soil has a similar mix soils, or to a subtle temperature difference centuries ago, these three appellations – and of Kimmeridgian limestone and clay. between the Yonne Valley of Auxerre and the the wide variety of grape varieties they allow – The wines from St-Bris have a unique Serein Valley of Chablis. Indeed, before demonstrate Burgundy’s ability to adapt to the St-Bris minerality, some almost a lava-like quality, with phylloxera ravaged the area in the late 19th subtleties wrought by the passage of time. Taking its name from St-Bris-le-Vineux, a tiny bright acidity and an attractive bite. They are century, St-Bris grew Chardonnay and was Although they may currently be harder to village in the Auxerrois to the southeast of the similar to Muscadet, but with more body and eventually included within the Chablis find than the wines from Burgundy’s long roll town of Auxerre, St-Bris is doubly unique. density, especially in recent vintages as climate appellation. Tucki offers, with a Gallic shrug:

call of better-known appellations, these three First, it’s the only place in Burgundy that St-Bris-Le-Vineux BIVB Photograph: change has enhanced ripening. Although ‘The origin of Sauvignon Blanc in St-Bris is a ➢

26 | July 2020 • Decanter Decanter • July 2020 | 27 Burgundy value

ST-BRIS: little mysterious.’ Whatever the reason, I THE FACTS predict we’ll see more of these riveting wines Area 160ha as climate change aids ripening in these Primary grapes northern climes. Sauvignon Blanc, Together, the 2017 and 2018 vintages of Sauvignon Gris St-Bris provide something for everyone. The Soil Portlandian 2017s are racier, while the 2018s are a little bit and Kimmeridgian rounder but maintain an invigorating bite. limestone In addition to Goisot, other domaines I Wines White only recommend include Clotilde Davenne, Félix, Average production Philippe Defrance, PL & JF Bersan, Séverine & Approximately 90,000 Lionel Jacquet, Verret and the cooperative 12-bottle cases Caves Bailly Lapierre. The notable Chablis producers, William Fèvre and Simonnet- COTEAUX Febvre, also make lovely St-Bris. BOURGUIGNONS: THE FACTS WINES TO TRY 1 Area 270ha Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot, Primary grapes La Ronce, St-Bris 2017 94 White Chardonnay, £18.99 Domaine Direct Aligoté, Melon de La Ronce vineyard sits on a hill that has both north Bourgogne, Pinot and south exposures, hence both Sauvignon Blanc Blanc, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay grow there. The soil is a mixture of Red Pinot Noir, , Kimmeridgian limestone and clay, yet there’s more César (a rare variety power here than in Goisot’s other St-Bris. Purity planted in the and a touch of spice complement that power, while Auxerrois) brilliant acidity keeps it fresh and lively. It’s a Soil Diverse, covering big-impact wine without a trace of heaviness. all of Burgundy from Biodynamic. Drink 2020-2024 Alcohol 12.5% the Auxerre in the north Auxerrois. Delicate floral notes grab your attention; two decades. The lower-yielding Sauvignon Gris Coteaux Above: Joseph Drouhin to Domaine Séverine & Lionel Jacquet, St-Bris 2018 93 good depth, impeccable balance and an alluring used for the Corps de Garde is thought to provide vines producing fruit for Wines Red, white or N/A UK www.domaine-jacquet.com minerally bite hold onto it. A persistent finish, with more substance. The wine comes from a variety of Bourguignons Coteaux Bourguignons rosé (which can also be Founded in 2002 with 2.8ha, based in the village of an attractive subtle bitterness, makes it a perfect vineyards composed of Kimmeridgian limestone labelled Coteaux Chitry, near Chablis, and now expanded to 16ha. The choice for shellfish. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 12.5% mixed with clay. This fresh and pure 2017 vintage In 2011, Coteaux Bourguignons replaced Bourguignons Clairet) Jacquets started producing St-Bris in 2011, and they delivers lava-like nuances. Crisp and cutting, it has Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, a category of Average production are clearly fast learners, since this 2018 St-Bris won a Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot, Corps de Garde, remarkable depth. At the same time, its refinement wine rarely exported to either the UK or the Approximately 160,000 gold medal at the 29th Concours des Vins du Grand St-Bris 2017 93 is apparent in its incredible finish. Drink 2020-2023 US (how something can be both grand and 12-bottle cases £23.49 Beckford Bottle Shop, Domaine Direct, Les Caves Alc 12.5% ordinary is beyond me). An all-encompassing de Pyrene, Middle Lane Market, The Crouch End Cellars, appellation, it stretches from Auxerre in the BOURGOGNE Woodhead Shop 2 Bailly Lapierre, St-Bris 2018 92 north to Beaujolais in the south. Wines can be PASSE-TOUT- Goisot, a family-owned estate, makes fabulous wines N/A UK www.bailly-lapierre.fr red, white or rosé and made from a single across its range, and has farmed biodynamically for This cooperative of about 430 growers is best known grape variety or a blend of approved grapes GRAINS: for its Crémant de Bourgogne, but it also makes a (see ‘The facts’, left). In short, the wines can be THE FACTS lovely St-Bris. The 2018 took a silver medal at the made from any grape traditionally grown in Area 232ha 29th Concours des Vins du Grand Auxerrois. any part of Burgundy. Primary grapes 1 2 3 Exhibiting delicate nuances of white flowers, its Part of the motivation for creating this new Pinot Noir (minimum allure is immediate, and it dazzles with its bright appellation was to help growers in economically one-third), Gamay – stony impact. Wonderful acidity, especially given distressed Beaujolais. Coteaux Bourguignons grapes mixed the vintage, makes it a pleasure to drink now – allows them to sell wines with ‘Bourgogne’ on before vinification particularly with sushi. Drink 2020 Alc 12.5% the label. However, notes Axel Joubert, estate Soil Mostly limestone/ manager at Château de Raousset in Chiroubles: clay for Pinot Noir and 3 Domaine PL & JF Bersan, Cuvée Marianne, ‘For the poorer producers, Coteaux Bourguignon granitic for Gamay St-Bris 2018 92 is not a saviour.’ Others see unintended Wines Red, rarely rosé N/A UK www.domainebersan.com consequences. One well-respected producer Average production This father-and-son team’s 2018 Cuvée Marianne is in Morgon, who prefers to remain anonymous Approximately 130,000 from 45-year-old vines planted on both Portlandian so as not to antagonise his neighbours, 12-bottle cases and Kimmeridgian limestone mixed with clay. emphasises with dramatic gestures that make Source: BIVB – area figures as of 2018; average production as five- Dense, but not heavy, it has aromas and flavours of his opinion clear even to those who do not year averages from 2014-2018 wet stones. Invigorating acidity balances the understand French: ‘It will kill Beaujolais.’ ripeness of the vintage and amplifies a steely finish. In contrast, Louis-Fabrice Latour, co-president Guilhem Goisot Photographs: Romain Beaumont; Joseph Drouhin Joseph Beaumont; Romain Photographs: Drink 2020-2022 Alc 12.5% of the BIVB (Bureau Interprofessionnel des ➢

28 | July 2020 • Decanter Decanter • July 2020 | 29 Burgundy value

young. For this broad category especially, I recommend following my time-honoured Apstein’s take: the alternative Burgundies advice for selecting Burgundy: producer, ST-BRIS producer, producer. Profile Fruity and minerally; great value; weekday wine More interesting than Sauvignon Blanc WINES TO TRY Food pairing Seafood, though its mineral-infused edginess also allows it to Domaine Fargues, Coteaux Bourguignons 2017 88 balance more substantial fare, such as roast pork or Asian-spiced dishes N/A UK www.domaine-fargues.fr Bénédicte and Bastien Fargues established their COTEAUX BOURGUIGNON BLANC tiny 1.3ha estate in Bligny-lès-Beaune in 2005 and Profile Fruity and zesty; great value; weekday wine are already making notable wines. They limit yields More interesting than Comparably priced New World Chardonnay by debudding and bottle without fining or filtering. Food pairing Seafood, chicken in a cream sauce This 2017 Chardonnay-Aligoté blend demonstrates the virtue of that marriage. A beam of citrus-like COTEAUX BOURGUIGNON ROUGE & PASSE-TOUT-GRAINS acidity supports its fruity and minerally aspects. Profile Fruity and savoury; great value; weekday wine The freshness on the finish amplifies the wine’s More interesting than Comparably priced New World Pinot Noir charms. It would be a good choice for simply grilled Food pairing Quintessential roast chicken wine Frédéric Barnier fish or shellfish. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 12.5%

Vins de Bourgogne) regional body, shows his Maison Fatien Pere & Fils, Coteaux Bourguignons enthusiasm for the appellation when he 2017 88 exclaims: ‘It will give the consumer a chance N/A UK www.maison-fatien.com Below: Maison Louis to drink Burgundy at a reasonable price.’ His In a small vineyard in the commune of Meursault, Bourgogne Latour, Bourgogne venerable, Beaune-based, family-run company, but outside the Bourgogne Blanc appellation, Passetoutgrain 2017 Maison Louis Latour, is taking advantage of it: Fatien Père et Fils has Chardonnay with, as Charles Passe-tout-grains (see p32) having planted Pinot Noir in the southern part Fatien notes, ‘a few rogue Aligoté vines thrown in’. One of the first appellations established in of Beaujolais where there are limestone soils, Previously relegated to the Bourgogne Grand Burgundy, Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains (also Louis Latour is making a unique wine, Les Ordinaire category, it is no ordinary wine. Those frequently seen on labels as ‘Passetoutgrain’) Pierres Dorées (see right), exclusively from that rogue Aligoté grapes add vivacity and amplify the received AC status in 1937. Regulations grape and labelling it under the new appellation. richness and delicate minerality of the Chardonnay. require a blend of Pinot Noir (one-third Although the name sounds as though it This energetic white is a perfect choice for simply minimum) and Gamay, which must be might be the lowest level of Burgundy prepared seafood. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 12.5% combined in the vat before fermentation, appellation – and indeed some supermarkets making it a blend of grapes, not of wines. The in France sell Coteaux Bourguignons for only a Domaine Jean & Gilles Lafouge, Coteaux Pinot Noir comes from anywhere in Burgundy, few euros a bottle – not all the wines fall into Bourguignons 2017 88 while the Gamay usually, but not always, that price or quality category. Coteaux POA Domaine Direct comes from the granitic soils of Beaujolais. Bourguignons from Maison Louis Jadot, This superb grower, based in Auxey-Duresses, used Though Philippe the Bold, Duke of another top Beaune-based négociant, sells for the flexible regulations of Coteaux Bourguignons Nicole Lamarche of Burgundy, banished Gamay from the Côte d’Or as much as 50% more than its Beaujolais- to tweak its usual blend of consistently winsome Domaine Lamarche in 1395, some remained. Historically, Gamay Villages. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier laments Passe-tout-grains. The 2017 contains 70% Gamay was an important grape in Morey-St-Denis, the difficulty of selling it in the US and other and 30% Pinot Noir, both from slopes around the where Stéphane Magnien, a small grower, has countries where customers prefer to see a winery where the limestone-rich soil imparts even 50-year-old Gamay vines from which he grape name or a well-known or easier-to- more acidity to the Gamay than the granitic soil of for Gamay’s red fruit-like profile in this beautifully consistently makes a winsome Passe-tout- pronounce place name on the label. Beaujolais. The two varieties were vinified similarly: balanced wine. Fine tannins allow for immediate grains. Domaine Lamarche in Vosne-Romanée The plethora of grapes allowed for Coteaux no cold soak, no carbonic maceration and little enjoyment and make it easy to recommend for has plots of 45- and 50-year-old Gamay vines Bourguignons and the enormous area from punchdown. The wine’s structure frames and 4 5 everyday enjoyment. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 12.5% and is planting new ones. And in the Côte de which they come make it impossible to supports its fresh and fruity raspberry-like Beaune, Domaine Lafarge has old Gamay vines generalise about the wine’s style. That said, for character beautifully. Its Beaujolais-like charm, 5 Louis Latour, Les Pierres Dorées, Coteaux that add complexity to its Passe-tout-grains. red Coteaux Bourguignons, many producers without sweetness, makes it a good match for Bourguignons 2018 88 Passe-tout-grains presents at least three use a blend of Gamay, which delivers fruitiness, steak-frites. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 12.5% £18.11-£20 The Drink Shop, The Wine Centre, Wine Direct hurdles for producers: winemaking, marketing and Pinot Noir, which adds needed structure. The limestone in the soil of southern Beaujolais and a disappearing name. Harvesting and For the whites, the combination of Chardonnay 4 Louis Jadot, Coteaux Bourguignons 2017 88 gives the name Pierres Dorées (‘golden rocks’) to then fermenting two different varieties and Aligoté makes the wine ideal for current £12-£14 Amersham Wines, Christopher Keiller, Fine Wines the area. A company that knows a thing or two together in mandated proportions is drinking. The former provides richness, while of Mayfield, Globe Wines about Pinot Noir, Maison Latour has planted about challenging. Pinot Noir and Gamay grown in the latter keeps the wine fresh and lively. Jadot combines Pinot Noir grown in Givry in the 20ha of the grape there, and the wine it produces different vineyards ripen at different times. Winemakers are keen on these blends because Côte Chalonnaise with Gamay from Beaujolais and gets better with every vintage. The 2018, the best Getting the harvest date(s) correct takes they can even out the vagaries of a vintage by releases it after an extended time in bottle, which is to date, displays a bright minerality. Ripe yet firm, enormous experience. Jeanne-Marie de adjusting the proportion of the components. why 2017 is the current vintage. Blending 75% it also paradoxically conveys a lovely austerity and Champs, one of Burgundy’s top brokers, thinks Like their white counterparts, red Coteaux Gamay and 25% Pinot Noir in 2017, it shows the even a welcome hint of bitterness in the finish. It’s that these wines offer good value, especially Bourguignons, with their fruity flavour profile virtue of using these two grapes: the spine and another excellent choice for steak and chips or from top growers. ‘We just need to explain the

Photograph: Jon Wyand Jon Photograph: and mild tannins, are meant to be drunk savoury nuances provided by Pinot Noir act as a foil Photograph: Tim Atkin MW similarly simple fare. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 12.5% name and the wine to consumers.’ ➢

30 | July 2020 • Decanter Decanter • July 2020 | 31 Burgundy value

Unintentionally, Coteaux Bourguignons may be replacing Passe-tout-grains. Louis ‘Maison Louis Latour has been Jadot ceased production of Passe-tout-grains in 2011 with the introduction of the flexible making Passe-tout-grains “forever”, regulations of Coteaux Bourguignons. With the 2017 vintage, Magnien began doing the same and intends to keep doing so’ for the same reason. Gilles Lafouge, a top Auxey-Duresses-based grower with an excellent track record for Passe-tout-grains, says he has stopped using the appellation planted to Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains (two- because it’s ‘from the 1950s’, whereas Coteaux thirds Gamay, one-third Pinot Noir) in three Bourguignons is ‘au courant’. lieux-dits nearby. It takes as much care with it as Others push on enthusiastically. Bernard with the far nobler, and more expensive, premiers Retornaz, president of Louis Latour, notes that crus. Suave and seamless, black fruit-like flavours the company has been making Passe-tout- meld with savoury, almost peppery notes. Lively grains ‘forever’, and intends to keep doing so. acidity keeps it fresh. Fine tannins permit Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains, similar to red immediate enjoyment. A great introduction to the Coteaux Bourguignons, can seamlessly talents of this producer. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 12.5% combine the upfront fruity aspect of Gamay with a backbone provided by Pinot Noir. Either 8 Domaine Trapet, A Minima, Bourgogne will transform a take-out rotisserie chicken. Passetoutgrain 2017 91 £18.50 (2014) Corney & Barrow WINES TO TRY Trapet Père et Fils, a stellar producer based in 6 Domaine Michel Lafarge, L’Exception, Gevrey-Chambertin, blends equal parts Pinot Noir Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2017 93 and Gamay grown in Grand Champs, a vineyard in Above: producer Gilles £13 (ib)-£21.75 Bowes, Corney & Barrow, Handford, Hic that village, for its Passe-tout-grains. It takes its Lafouge exemplifies a Aptly named, as this leading Volnay-based estate name from the philosophy of minimal intervention, trend away from using has 1ha of vines, almost 10% of its estate, planted to which in this case means biodynamic farming, the Passe-tout-grains Passe-tout-grains, some older than 90 years. This indigenous yeasts and the addition of only a hint of label in favour of the organic, biodynamic domaine typically uses equal sulphur at bottling. The result is a delicious blend of more ‘au courant’ amounts of Pinot Noir and Gamay with wild yeast to juicy red fruit and spicy, herbal, earthy notes. Coteaux Bourguignons make this truly exceptional wine. More substantial Tannins are suave, which makes it fine for drinking and complex than you’d expect of this appellation, now. Its acidity keeps it fresh and lively throughout it delivers raspberry-like nuances with spicy a meal. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 13% savoury notes. It fits my definition of Burgundy: flavour without weight. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 12.5% Domaine Bernard Moreau, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2017 89 7 Robert Chevillon, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain N/A UK [email protected] 2016 93 Brothers Alexandre and Benôit Moreau have run this £16.68 Justerini & Brooks top-notch Chassagne-Montrachet-based estate Chevillon, one of the top producers in Nuits-St- since 1999. Through their diligence in the vineyards Georges, has a little more than half a hectare and care in the winery, all of their wines – even from this lowly appellation – shine. A lighter-weight, forward wine that reflects the vintage, this conveys bright red fruit flavours with a perfect balance of 6 7 8 tannins providing structure without astringency. Its finesse shows how this appellation can punch above its weight. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 12.5%

Louis Latour, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2017 88 POA Louis Latour Agencies The traditional blend of two-thirds Gamay, one-third Pinot Noir makes this classically framed and easy-to-like Passe-tout-grains. The Pinot Noir comes from the Mâconnais and provides backbone, while Gamay from Beaujolais delivers upfront fruitiness. The lack of oak allows the fruit to shine, resulting in a ready-to-drink, mid-weight wine with charming rusticity and vivacity. It’s the French version of a pizza wine. Drink 2020-2021 Alc 13% D

32 | July 2020 • Decanter