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NORTHERN BULGARIA a Truly Off-The-Beaten-Track Locale, Northern Bulgariaistheplacetogo

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NORTHERN BULGARIA a Truly Off-The-Beaten-Track Locale, Northern Bulgariaistheplacetogo © Lonely Planet Publications 256 lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN BULGARIA •• Vidin 257 VIDIN ВИДИН 1396, with the Ottoman capture of Bdin %094 / pop 69,400 (subsequently renamed ‘Vidin’). The largest town in northwest Bulgaria, Under the Ottomans an extensive city Northern Bulgaria and a convenient place for travelling to or wall was built, and the Baba Vida Fortress from Romania, Vidin enjoys an impressive strengthened. By the 16th century, Vidin setting above the balmy Danube. Although was the largest town in the Bulgarian part it has just one major attraction, the well- of the Ottoman vilayet (province) of Eastern preserved Baba Vida Roman fortress, Vidin Rumelia, and one of the biggest Danube ports. Although it’s less visited than other parts of the country, Bulgaria’s tranquil north is still well is a relaxing enough place, with most of the In the late 18th century, when the Ottoman worth exploring. It’s a place full of both unexpected surprises and obvious draws – such as riverfront being taken up by little parks; these Empire began disintegrating, local pasha (high the great River Danube, which ribbons along most of the country’s border with Romania. include colourful playgrounds with a certain official) Osman Pazvantoglu declared the Soviet appeal, flowers, shady trees and even Vidin district independent. In 1878, during Northern Bulgaria’s major attractions include the well-preserved Roman castle overlooking a grassy strip for sunbathing above the river. the Russo-Turkish War, Vidin was presented the river at Vidin and the stunning prehistoric rock formations of Belogradchik; both are The parks make Vidin a nice place for kids to the new Bulgarian state by the Romanian only about four hours away from Sofia. to scamper around, and for elders to enjoy a army. Seven years later, the Serbs tried but peaceful evening stroll. A handful of churches failed to take the city. Further on to the east, the enigmatic medieval monasteries at Basarbovo and Ivanovo and museums comprises the town’s cultural peek out of cliffs in the vast Rusenski Lom Nature Park, while serene Lake Srebârna is a offerings. Orientation major refuge for rare species of birds (and the bird-watchers who flock to them). Magnifi- Although Vidin’s erstwhile commercial sig- From the train station and bus station across nificance has diminished drastically since the from it, turn right two blocks to the Danube cent neoclassical architecture and a vibrant café culture characterise the flourishing river 1990s, when UN economic sanctions on neigh- and the Port Authority building (Rechna city of Ruse, the region’s capital, which is also the gateway to Bucharest in Romania, three bouring Serbia caused trade to be rerouted Gara). Following the water north brings you hours to the north. further east to Ruse, a handful of cafés and to the parks, and several restaurants, bars and restaurants keeps up a spark of life. Still, un- hotels. From here the Baba Vida Fortress is a Since tourism has yet to make major inroads in Bulgaria’s northern border region, it also employment is high, and decrepit, communist- 20-minute walk north along the waterfront. remains an area with marvellously authentic and friendly locals, ranging from fishermen in era buildings are plentiful, with the grand, The sprawling town square, pl Bdintsi, one combat fatigues to whole roving brass bands. If you’re looking for a taste of the offbeat in and poorly lit central square and leafy streets block northeast of the train station, features an enormous communist-era monument, a truly off-the-beaten-track locale, northern Bulgaria is the place to go. seeming eerily empty at night. Despite its lonesome feel, however, Vidin is still a unique banks and shops. place and justifies an overnight stay. Information History Foreign exchange offices, banks and sev- Vidin’s location on a bend in the river, east eral ATMs line ul Tsar Simeon Veliki and pl HIGHLIGHTS of the Stara Planina mountain range, has his- Bdintsi. torically made it strategically important. The Cyber Zone (ul Târgovska 3) Step back in time Celts, and perhaps the Thracians before them, Post office (h7am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1.30pm Sat) Explore Vidin’s remarkably well preserved settled there until the 3rd century BC, when Between the square and train station. Baba Vida Museum-Fortress ( opposite ) the Romans built a fortress called Bononia Telephone centre (h7am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, Natural wonders over the Celtic settlement of Dunonia to con- 8am-1.30pm Sat) In the post office. Climb the huge Belogradchik rocks, trol this key Danube crossing. Tourist Information Centre (%601 421; tsviat@abv seamlessly blended with the Roman Kaleto Throughout the Byzantine centuries, the .bg; pl Bdintsi 6; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Lake Srebârna Fortress ( p262 ) Bulgars were chronically at war with the Vidin Ruse Vetren Urban sophistication empire, and Vidin (known then as Bdin) Sights Belogradchik was much contested due to its strategic BABA VIDA MUSEUM-FORTRESS Enjoy the Austro-Hungarian architecture and Rusenski Lom vibrant café society of Ruse ( p267 ) Nature Park importance. By 1185, when Byzantium was The marvellously intact Baba Vida Museum- declining, Bulgarian brothers Peter and Asen Fortress (%601 705; admission 2 lv, guided tour in Bulgarian Get spiritual revolted, wresting this river garrison away or Russian 5 lv; h8.30am-5pm summer, 10am-5pm winter) NORTHERN BULGARIA Marvel at the frescoed cave churches of from Constantinople’s control and beginning stands on the riverside park’s northern end, Basarbovo and Ivanovo in the Rusenski Lom the Second Bulgarian Empire. A succession overlooking the Danube. Between the 10th Nature Park ( p273 ) of notable Bulgar leaders followed, including and 14th centuries, the Bulgars fortified the Eco-escape Shishman in 1280 and his son Michail, who ruined walls of the 3rd-century Roman citadel Gaze out on the tranquil waters of Lake became tsar in 1323. During this (literally) of Bononia. What you will see today dates Srebârna ( p274 ), home of rare bird species, golden period, contemporary sources attest, from the 17th century, when the Ottomans and fish the Danube at nearby Vetren the imperial coffers were bursting with lucre. upgraded its fortifications and made it an The Second Bulgarian Empire finally fell in arsenal. Baba Vida escaped destruction during NORTHERN BULGARIA 258 NORTHERN BULGARIA •• Vidin lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels NORTHERN BULGARIA •• Vidin 259 050 km NORTHERN BULGARIA 0 30 miles To Bucharest Lake Srebârna Kulurash Rosiori Bregovo ROMANIA de Vede ROMANIA Oltenitsa Vetren Silistra Caracas Srebârna Turtakan Danube Srebârna Vidin Nature Calafat Reserve Alexandria Alfatar Zajecar Giurgiu Vrushka Doulovo Chouka D Ruse Lom anub Turnu Koubrat Kardam e Magurele See Rusenski Kozlodui Lom Nature Isperih Tervel General Basarbovo Rock Toshevo Park Map (p273) Monastery Durankulak Gara Broussartsi Cherkovitsa Zimnich Ivanovo Pisanets Belogradchik Oreshets Rusenski Lom Dobrich Svishtov Tsar Kaloyan Kaolinovo Belogradchik Goulyantsi Dve Mogili Nature Park Shabla Rocks Cherven Razgrad Samuil Chiprovtsi Knezha Kavarna Prevala Monastery Obrochishte Borovan Pleven Byala Opaka Montana Byala Chiprovtsi Slatina Balchik Levski Polski Montana Popovo Souvorovo Kopilovtsi Lopushanski Reserve Trumbesh Golden Sands Monastery (Zlanti Pyasâtsi) Cherven Bryag Shumen Aksakovo Pavlikeni Nikyup Berkovitsa Turgovishte Vratsa Devnya Varna Zgorigrad Loukovit Kochovo Pirot Mezdra Lovech Vrachanski Balkan Gorna Veliki Nature Park Roman Oryakhovitsa Antonovo Cherepish Veliko Preslav Târnovo Lyaskovets Omourtag Kalotina Gara Lakatnik Zverino Monastery Yablanitsa SERBIA Sevlievo Staro Oryahovo S Kilifarevo t Svoge a Botevgrad Dryanovo Dragoman r a Troyan Oreshak Elena Kotel Slivnitsa Iskâr Gorge Tryavna Trun Apriltsi Gabrovo Obzor Strezimirovtsi Novi Iskâr P l a r a P l a n i n a Breznik n i n a S t a Anton Mt Botev Aitos (2376m) Shipka Sliven Kableshkovo Sunny Beach (Slanchev Bryag) B L A C K Pirdop Shipka Pass SOFIA Karlovo Koprivshtitsa Kazanlâk Karnobat Aheloi Nesebâr Vitosha Cherno S E A More Pomorie Pernik Nature Park Hisar Tulovo Nova Mt Cherni Lake (Hisarya) Burgas Zemen Vrâh (2290m) Iskâr Panagyurishte Zagora Yambol the Russo-Turkish War of 1877–78, remain- Museum (%624 421; ul Tsar Simeon Veliki 12; h9am- artists. It’s housed in a stately white neoclassi- raised-tile bathrooms. The eye-catching ing today as Bulgaria’s best-preserved medi- noon & 1-6pm Tue-Sun), situated northwest of the cal mansion adjacent to the Hotel Bononia. apartments have lofty ceilings and mottled eval stone fortress. square, displays Thracian and Roman jew- painted cupolas. Despite its immensity (70m-long walls, ellery and statues, plus exhibits from the Sleeping Hotel Zora (%606 330; www.hotelzora.hit.bg in with some remaining outer walls continuing Bulgarian National Revival period. The mu- Hotel Dunav (%/fax 600 177; ul Edelvais 3; s/d 30/50 lv, Bulgarian; ul Naycho Tsanov 3a; s/d/apt 55/72/90 lv; a) several hundred metres further south), the seum building was once an Ottoman konak with shared bathroom 18/36 lv) The Dunav is cen- Overlooking the Sveti Velikomachenik Baba Vida is relatively empty, collected weap- (police station). trally located and offers Vidin’s cheapest rates. Dimitâr church, Hotel Zora is a well-kept onry and a waxen prisoner ensconced in the An unusual monument decrying totalitar- Some rooms have a lived-in, musty feel, while and friendly place. All rooms have balcony, dungeon being the only inhabitants. Notice ian repression stands near the Hotel Dunav – others have slightly upgraded furnishings. minibar, TV and even bathtubs. boards (in French) present the history and the post-Soviet Victims of Communism Memorial. Hotel Bononia (%606 031; moira_bg200@yahoo uses of the fortress’s sections. A deep moat Further north along the river, before the for- .com; ul Bdin 2; s/d 43/65 lv; a) Wedged between Eating & Drinking surrounds the structure.
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