sign in sign up
<<
Home , Antarctic shag, Blackish cinclodes, Chauna, Common diving petrel, Correndera pipit, Giant petrel

, SOUTH GEORGIA & THE Aboard the Island Sky JANUARY 4–25, 2020

BUENOS AIRES PRE-TRIP JANUARY 2–5, 2020

PENGUINS LEAPING ON ICE IS ALWAYS A WINNER, HERE GENTOOS ESCAPING A © ANDREW WHITTAKER

LEADER: ANDREW WHITTAKER LIST COMPILED BY: ANDREW WHITTAKER

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM By Andrew Whittaker

Without a doubt, our Antarctica cruise was the trip of a lifetime for all! From the incredibly rich sub- Antarctic islands of both the Falklands and South Georgia (the icing on the cake) to the magical White Continent, we were followed by great weather and wildlife galore. No superlative can even come close to describing such a fabulous adventure!

The harsh White Continent and its picturesque scenery, from immense icebergs and glaciers to towering mountains, is a truly inhospitable wilderness. However, the rich and plentiful southern oceans and stops at every port of call including remote islands and beaches, offered an extravaganza of life—all combined to make this voyage as breathtaking as my first-ever trip to this stunning paradise. Vast and vivid turquoise oceans afforded us the opportunity to enjoy some of the world’s best pelagic birding right off our own ship’s decks with early coffee and goodies close by. Above all of these incredible experiences, it was my sheer delight to be able to share all of this amazing voyage alongside a group of wonderful and interesting people. I enjoyed sharing with you my great passion for this mind-boggling place where together we enjoyed the best of the most exceptional mega-rich wilderness left untouched on our planet. Thanks to each and every one of you for making it such an enjoyable trip.

Most of the group on an incredible evening walk on the 7th continent © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Wow—what a complete contrast, beginning our pre-trip in a hot, steamy Buenos Aires from our lovely well-positioned Hilton Hotel. Here, with our local guide Emiliano, we enjoyed an action-packed day and a half as we soaked up the warmth, birding several wonderful marshes and the rich nearby park. We observed more than 100 , most of which we wouldn’t see again as we migrated to the southern tier, our destination the town of Ushuaia and beyond.

We arrived in Ushuaia to lovely sun that luckily seemed to follow us during our entire voyage! Several of you enjoyed exploring the town on our first afternoon from our plush hotel with a magnificent overlook of the gorgeous Beagle Channel. Some even discovered the most-wanted Magellanic Woodpecker on a forest trail behind the hotel. Thanks to Tresa for informing me so that I could go rushing around trying to find folks; thankfully, several of you managed great views of this family party between a wonderful welcome dinner at our hotel.

Our first port of call was the sublime sub-Antarctic Islands. First up were the -rich Falklands and an interesting visit to Port Stanley, from whence we headed south to my favorite of all, the magnificent wildlife-rich South Georgia, the icing on the cake! As predicted, they both provided unrivaled wildlife spectacles at every stop after we had enjoyed fantastic pelagic birding and a few (well, actually many) cetaceans along the way. Spellbound, we were treated to the sights of beaches full of Elephant and Fur seals, countless thousands of eight different species, point-blank views of Wandering off the deck and thousands of Black-browed at nesting colonies. These were just some of the incredible highlights burned into our memories as we navigated these remote and mega-rich islands. After another couple of great days birding at sea, we reached the remote great White Continent—the main reason for many of us to undertake this voyage. The scenery was as sublime as ever; its inhospitable environment combined with such extreme adverse weather conditions (even now in summer) perfectly illustrated the dangers of Antarctica and the bravery the early explorers possessed. Imagine trying to survive in subzero temperatures in winter, plus those famous 100-mile-an-hour katabatic winds in pitch darkness. A Zodiac cruise around the famous Elephant Island which, as usual, was wind-whipped and snowbound, was our first view of Antarctica. I certainly can’t imagine being marooned there for several months (living in super-cramped and appalling conditions, in subzero temperatures under two upturned boats) and hoping the improbable rescue boat would make it all the way across one of the most inhospitable oceans in the world and then locate the tiny outcrop of land that is South Georgia in such an immense ocean, much less mount a rescue mission back. But we all know that it worked! In Antarctica proper, I am proud to say that two of our brave souls tested the icy Antarctic waters in the famous polar plunge! Needless to say, we all enjoyed being surrounded by more immense penguin colonies and having more close-up whale encounters, as well as tabular icebergs and smaller ones, blue and black ice, and some of the world’s most splendid scenery. Finally, after a couple of frantic but delightful weeks, we had to say goodbye to paradise. Sailing north, the sunset illuminated the incredible continent and finally our destination, the infamous , which did not manage to show us why it’s famous for rough seas—this time!

Our adventure began on our pre-trip in Buenos Aires. Its skyscrapers provided a stunning backdrop as we met Emiliano and enjoyed birding our first afternoon in nearby Costanera Sur reserve, a managed wetland that is a fantastic birding locale and right within the city. Lifers were streaming by quickly for many. Monk and lovely Nanday (Black-hooded) parakeets were constantly on the move over the marsh and woodland. A Kite; superb Whistling Heron; stunning waterfowl that included gorgeous male Ringed, Silver, Yellow-billed, and Brazilian teal; Spot-flanked Gallinule; super-close male Rosy-billed Pochards; and White-faced Whistling- were among the highlights. Best, however, was finding several Black-headed Ducks, an unusual rare bird here and the world’s only parasitic !

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

Wonderful male Rosy-billed Pochard © Andrew Whittaker

A well-camouflaged Rufescent Tiger-Heron froze in a pose worthy of a bittern while a Wattled Jacana foraged below on the lily pads. Glittering-bellied Emeralds were abundant at flowering trees, adding some splashes of iridescent color to the list. We began familiarizing ourselves with the odd Guira , Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, strutting Rufous Hornero (the national bird), Black-backed Water- Tyrant, Masked Yellowthroat, Small-billed Elaenia, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Grayish Baywing, Red- crested Cardinal, and our first of many Chimango Caracaras.

Masked Yellowthroat male © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 The next morning, we headed out of the massive sprawl of Buenos Aires to the pampas at Otamendi Reserve. Here we enjoyed excellent birding on a warm sunny morning, with Green Kingfisher, Scarlet- headed Blackbird, Freckle-breasted Thornbird, both Green-barred and Checkered woodpeckers, Gilded , unique Curve-billed Reedhaunter, colorful Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch, Hooded Siskin, and Spectacled Tyrant all brightening up our day.

A responsive Green-barred Woodpecker gave great views © Andrew Whittaker

A rather gritty looking Curve-billed Reedhaunter © Andrew Whittaker

The sprawling and marsh that make up the pampas provided a great backdrop for Masked Yellowthroat and Masked Gnatcatcher, Long-tailed Reed-Finch, Great Pampa-Finch, White-browed , and Yellow-browed Tyrant. In late afternoon we returned to the wonderful park in Buenos Aires, enjoying its superb light on the likes of Coscoroba , Great and White-tufted , Striated Heron, Red-gartered Coot, and much more before a wonderful, fun Argentine dinner at a famous port side restaurant.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

Our truly memorable Antarctic expedition began (for those of you who were not on the Buenos Aires pre-trip) as we landed amongst snow-capped mountains lining the famous Beagle Channel at one of the southernmost cities in the world, Ushuaia. On our arrival we quickly transferred to the lovely forested Arakur Resort overlooking the city and stunning Beagle Channel. Families of Rufous-collared Sparrows were common, plus some Thorn-tailed Rayaditos, Black-chinned Siskins, and Austral Thrushes in the garden.

The next day I offered a pre-breakfast birding excursion which got great Austral Parakeets but, sadly, no sign of yesterday’s woodpeckers. After breakfast we boarded our bus and enjoyed a day-trip exploring the famous Tierra del Fuego National Park, walking through its magnificent southern beech forests, home to the incomparable Magellanic Woodpecker. This mega woodpecker gave us incredible studies of a male right by the roadside. As a bonus, a super pair of Austral Pygmy- were spotted below the woodpecker.

A stunning male Magellanic Woodpecker is always an Ushuaia highlight© Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Further highlights we enjoyed were carpets of white and yellow orchids and lovely Black-necked and Great Grebes that graced our delightful restaurant overlook, as did a family of cute Upland Geese and Flying Steamer-Ducks. Other cool included noisy Southern Lapwing and Black-faced Ibis, brightly colored Patagonian Sierra-Finch, the striking red eyes of the Fire-eyed Diucon, and the ever- present common but cute Thorn-tailed Rayadito. After a great morning birding, we enjoyed a terrific barbeque meal in the park, and our afternoon started by exploring first the rubbish dump for localized White-throated Caracara and neat Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle. Next up were a rich coastal wetland reserve and the shores of the Beagle Channel. Here, to my surprise, we found the 3rd ever record of White-cheeked Pintail amongst other waterfowl such as Red and Yellow-billed Pintail, as well as our first of many lovely Dolphin . We also had close studies of the true Southern Lapwing and a nice recent split in the form of a cool Magellanic Snipe, as well as handsome Long-tailed Meadowlark and South American before we eventually had to pack it in and start the real adventure by boarding our magnificent ship. Late afternoon saw us boarding our luxury cruise ship, the magnificent Island Sky, and heading south down the calm and bird-rich Beagle Channel.

A cool find by Marcelo was the Magellanic Snipe, another Ushuaia highlight © Andrew Whittaker

Our home for the next 18 days was the plush Island Sky. The final frontier, Antarctica, the Falklands, and South Georgia (the icing on the cake), was as dramatic as ever, from immense tabular icebergs, towering ice-covered mountains, and stunning glaciers to beaches absolutely teeming with wildlife. Daily, our amazing land-based and Zodiac excursions found us all spellbound—simply blown away by the ever- changing beauty of the picturesque surroundings and enthralled by the unique and incredible wildlife spectacles. We quickly fell passionately in love with this sensational White Continent and sub-Antarctic islands, their abundant nature and sheer beauty leaving us all to celebrate and toast to an unforgettable trip of a lifetime that we were so blessed to share. Please let these vast, untouched, pristine wildlife havens and incredibly rich oceans remain untainted by the hand of man…forever!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

Our very own plush Island Sky cruise ship © Andrew Whittaker

Our first day at sea early the next morning found us birding off the wonderful deck facilities the ship offered. During the cruise we had daily opportunities for some of the best world-class pelagic birding one can ever hope for. Multiple species of followed us, allowing great studies of several , , giant-petrels, prions, shearwaters, , , and storm-petrels. There was always something to enjoy, be it working on the complex identification of prions or diving-petrels, trying to age the great albatrosses, improving one’s flying photo techniques, or just marveling at the grace and power of these majestic flying machines. We enjoyed our first pelagic giants, the great albatross, in the form of both Southern Royal and (which reach an unbelievable 12- foot wingspan) as they effortlessly powered past our ship. As we neared our destination, we began to see small flocks of Slender-billed Prions, giant-petrels, and Fuegian Storm-Petrels too.

Many great albatross showing off their massive 3-meter wingspan graced the decks including many Wandering (Snowy) Albatross © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Too many magical moments were spent on deck to recall all; I myself just love the largest of them all, the Wandering (Snowy) Albatross in the sun off South Georgia with the backdrop of snow-capped mountain peaks on a breathtaking sunny afternoon. Another was a rare single and, of course, a favorite for many, the graceful Light Mantled Albatross. Pintado Petrels sometimes hovered so close at the stern we could have touched them, allowing us to see such fine details as salt water drops on the tips of massive of both species of giant-petrels, or just the graceful Wilson’s, Black-bellied, and a few much rarer Gray-backed storm-petrels as they gracefully skimmed along the surface, cutting the waves, feeding unperturbed by the crashing waves. The highlights beyond a doubt were an amazing Antarctic that followed us for an hour and the brief view of a lifer White-headed Petrel for me, that sadly only Tresa was able to pick up as it speeded by in typical Pterodroma style!

Delicate and abundant on this crossing were the lovely Slender-billed Prions but a challenge to photograph © Andrew Whittaker.

Our first stop at the Falkland Islands was at lovely sun-drenched Steeple Jason, which we were very lucky to visit—my first time! One of our many incredible Zodiac landings placed us well on shore. Once ashore it was sensory overload, with new birds all over the place. Highlights were great looks at Striated Caracara, resident race of Black-faced Ground-Tyrant, and a very tame Blackish walking around our feet to our enjoyment.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 9 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

Striated Caracara is a real specialty of the Falklands © Andrew Whittaker

Next up were our first amazing jaw agape visits to a cute mixed colony of tiny Southern Rockhopper amongst countless pairs of huge nesting Black-browed Albatross (largest colony in the world, around 150, 000) with their neat mascara and so cute downy chicks sitting in their odd but neat mud amongst the tussock grass.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 10 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

A trip highlight was our visit to a magical busy Black-browed Albatross colony as they are totally fearlessly getting on with everyday life only meters from us! © Andrew Whittaker

Another great meal followed onboard before another exciting afternoon landing on Saunders Island. Here we were met by the delightful owners. Our target was a walk up to the huge penguin colonies which enthralled us; our first small but very majestic group of Kings were surrounded by a much larger Gentoo colony. While observing their fascinating antics, we also had Magellanic Penguins going into their burrows on a nearby hilly grassy slope. The colony provided us with mesmerizing antics from more lovely Rockhoppers in their colony, and we enjoyed mega close-up studies of the neat endemic Falkland Island Steamer-Ducks and our first too. Arriving back at the beach, we enjoyed a perfect barbeque set up by Russ’s family, with great meats, barbeque sauce, and homemade sausage to die for!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 11 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

The ever so cute Rockhoppers were extremely popular too © Andrew Whittaker

The following morning we visited the famous capital of Port Stanley, where we had a very enjoyable nature walk along the lovely, rich Gypsy Cove area. Many highlights included peering out of burrows at us; stunning White-browed (Canary-winged) finches; Black-chinned Siskin; cute Two-banded ; the endemic of Sedge (Grass) Wren, most certainly a good split; the Rock or Magellanic and Black-crowned Night-Heron colonies; and even a neat terrestrial orchid!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 12 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

A gorgeous male White-browed (Canary-winged) Finch, Falklands © Andrew Whittaker

Following our enjoyable stroll, we were able to explore the fascinating town with its British links and interesting history, finding a wonderful UK favorite, & chips. Many visited its interesting museum and the lovely church and grounds with its truly incredible show of lupines (the finest I have ever seen) with every color in the rainbow. All too soon we were lifting anchor and heading west, sailing on to our encounter that for me was the icing on the cake, the unparalleled wildlife spectacle that is found at South Georgia!

A molting male flightless Falkland Steamer-Duck on the beach is one of many Falkland endemics © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 13 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Our two sea days were filled not just with amazing birding on deck but wonderful cuisine, excellent lectures by many talented folks (covering history, geology, and marine life), plus film shows at night with popcorn (if you could pull yourself off the decks). We observed our first Humpback Whales; we slowed down and loitered with these spectacular leviathans as they fed near us.

Humpback tail fluke; each individual can be identified by its unique fingerprint (see happywhale.com)! © Andrew Whittaker

Finally, as if out of nowhere, those who awoke early were graced to see the spectacular glacier-covered mountains of my favorite place in the world, South Georgia. Here we enjoyed four action-packed days of Zodiac excursions to the “paradise island” of South Georgia where, I must admit, I was always confused as to what to do—photos, binoculars, or just stand in one spot with jaw agape observing the intricate behaviors of such a plethora of wildlife from the birds to great sea mammals!

Wildlife-packed beaches were normal here on the incredible, rich South Georgia. Here Antarctic Fur Seals shared the beaches with loads of King Penguins © Andrew Whittaker

First and foremost, after an early breakfast we boarded the Zodiacs and suddenly, as if by magic, we were observing the incredible sight of animal-packed beaches and seabirds off Elsehul. Entering the

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 14 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Zodiacs, we were greeted by stunning Gray-headed Albatross bathing and later observed them nesting in the tussocks of the hilly coves. All the beaches were littered with Antarctic Fur Seals and their noisy but ever so cute pups. Overhead, Light-mantled Albatross circled the cliffs calling while we enjoyed the antics of the cool-looking Macaroni Penguins leaping out of the water onto slippery almost impossible rocks with ease—followed by a mountaineering feat using their ancient highways to get up to their colonies high above on the slopes, a real highlight. Our Zodiac was even lucky enough to spot a rare white-morph Southern Giant-Petrel on the water, allowing superb views and comparison with Northern.

Macaroni Penguins leaving the water onto rocks and using their highway up to their colonies was certainly another major highlight © Andrew Whittaker

Our excursions got better and better. Next up: the famous Salisbury Plains on a glorious sunny day, which was truly awesome. What a sight to greet us: a massive colony of +200,000 pairs covering the plains and hills, practically crowding out the Antarctic Fur Seals! We marveled at their inquisitive behavior as each and every one of us experienced a close encounter of the King kind! Seeing for the first time in years many and so many of the endemic South Georgia (the southernmost breeding ) was again another wonderful reminder of how successful the de- ratting program has been.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 15 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

The most southern breeding passerine in the world, the endemic South Georgia Pipit © Andrew Whittaker

Glorious almost balmy weather continued. Sadly, our planned visit to Prion Island had to be cancelled due to incredible numbers of Fur Seals on the beach and boardwalk; it was decided to be unsafe to land!

However, Plan B was offered, and we gladly landed and visited the impressive Saint Andrews Bay King colony, the largest in the world at around 400,000 pairs strong and growing with young—more than a MILLION birds! Truly a mind-blowing sight and experience enjoyed by all and an action-packed start to this magical isle!

We awoke to yet another glorious day, this time in picturesque Fortuna Bay. We enjoyed countless King Penguins while beaches provided our first up-close encounters with Antarctic Fur Seals, watching their hungry pups being fed by devoted mums. Several of you took to the hills to enjoy, with Tom, part of the famous Shackleton Hike on this beautiful day.

An immense King Penguin colony at Salisbury Plain, South Georgia © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 16 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 After a short ship trip to Stromness in the early afternoon, we picked up the adventurous hikers while the rest of us were on deck following the awe-inspiring scenery of this magical island. Finally, we arrived at Grytviken into its secluded bay. After a great film show on the isle and hearing about its wonderful conservation work, we landed. As always, it’s a very touching stop at the boss’s grave, with an emotional toast after a speech by Ingrid about the special blended Scottish whisky named in honor of the great Boss Shackleton! We followed with a walking tour through the ghostly town; the Petrel’s rusty harpoon was a sad reminder of the slaughter of countless millions of whales in these rich seas. The spectacular newly refurbished museum was really enlightening, covering both history and interesting fauna. The , many touchable specimens, and info here are truly tremendous! The replica of the tiny James Caird, Shackleton’s craft in which he initiated the amazing rescue of his men five months later, was not to be missed. Finally, we all enjoyed the antics of a pair of Antarctic that had a recently fledged youngster, and we laughed at the noises emitted by several molting Elephant Seals (how rude)! We also enjoyed the incredibly well thought out museum and, of course, getting some post cards and buying some gifts at the shop to help out the wildlife conservation on the isle.

South Georgia Pintail numbers have risen greatly, a true conservation success © Andrew Whittaker

Our final day on this magical island was even more of a grand finale, with an early landing to see Gold Harbor with its stunning amphitheater of hanging glaciers and vertical cliffs in perfect early morning sunlight as dawn broke. Southern Elephant Seals lined the beaches, greeting us with young males learning how to spar in between Kings and Gentoos, with Fur Seals in amongst the tussocks. From my first trip here to this paradise, the King Penguin colony of around 3,000 has now grown to an estimated 100,000 in less than 20 years! Some watched the sad demise of an injured King killed by a hungry Northern Giant-Petrel (that had narrowly missed an adult Chinstrap earlier). In the afternoon we sailed up the coast and explored the narrow but awesome Drygalski Fjord with amazing hanging glaciers, steep sided gorges, and unique rock formations, enjoying our first superb Snow Petrels!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 17 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

An emblem of pure beauty and peace, an immaculate , and what can be better than a slick Snow Petrel in a snow storm © Andrew Whittaker

As usual, for me the “icing on the cake of the tour” was the superb wildlife spectacle that is South Georgia, and may it long remain! We can all be so proud to have helped raise thousands of dollars in the auction for the continued monitoring of the incredibly successful de-ratting project on this island paradise. This is an incredible achievement for the UK Restoration fund, whose amazing enthusiasm has managed over the years, following a big grant from the UK, to raise around 6 million pound sterling total through many kind donations like ours to rid the island of these introduced pests, saving hundreds of millions of birds!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 18 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

Young male Southern Elephant Seals learning to spar on Gold Harbor beach © Andrew Whittaker

We continued cruising southwest to avoid a storm, with an excellent evening of pelagics with superb light allowing everyone to see both South Georgia and Common diving-petrels well, and a few Gray- backed Storm-Petrels too. An excellent two days at sea with many highlights such as Light-mantled Albatross, and this year, sadly, just a couple of distant Kerguelan Petrels, but masses of Blue and nice numbers of Soft-plumaged Petrel showing well.

A graceful Light-mantled Albatross performed off the stern © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 19 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

Blue Petrels were seen well off the decks © Andrew Whittaker

After two days, finally, in the haze, we had our first glimpse of the islands of Antarctica, the South Shetlands. Very luckily, we enjoyed a rare chance to get in close to look at and enjoy the history of the famous Elephant Island on a superb Zodiac tour. This island was, of course, made famous by Sir Ernest Shackleton, who made it here from Antarctica (after losing the Endurance in ice in the Weddell Sea), landing and overwintering his crew here at Point Wild. Incredibly, they survived the bleakest of winters by living under their upturned boat for months before making their epic journey onto land in South Georgia! I still cannot imagine how incredibly hardy these sailors were to survive such an ordeal. I guess you could maybe compare this to the tiny storm-petrels that in huge winter storms can survive gale force winds with 50–60-foot waves at sea for days! Both are to be greatly admired for sure. We also enjoyed our first nice Chinstrap colony, and some managed to see a Wilson’s Storm-Petrel entering its nesting cavity in a rock outcrop.

Fantastic policeman of the Antarctic, the immaculate © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 20 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 This night we sailed farther south into the Antarctic Sound and Weddell Sea, and my gamble paid off. Waking at 2:30 and going on deck for a vigil, I was lucky enough to find the bird of the trip at 5:40 in the form of an immature Emperor—gladly on an ice flow—and I managed with Dan’s help to stop the ship for all to enjoy close looks! We also had our first sighting of the true White Continent’s rugged and snow-covered mountains, glaciers, sea ice, and spectacular tabular icebergs surrounding us. Our first exciting stop was the lovely Paulet Island. Here Captain Larsen, of the Nordenskjold expedition, wintered with 21 men in 1903 after losing his ship to ice. The stone remains have been taken over by the ever so cute Adelies. We enjoyed their antics and the island’s incredible amphitheater around a lake of this 100, 000 strong penguin colony!

Antarctica trip highlight for many was the immature Emperor Penguin I found on fast ice © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 21 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Next we visited Brown Bluff where we made our first memorable continental landing on this, “our planet’s final frontier,” Antarctica. As we approached, we entered the realm of the inquisitive Adelie Penguins, peering at us off ice flows and odd blue icebergs, which we all enjoyed greatly. They certainly are always a favorite of many.

Adorable Adelie Penguin © Andrew Whittaker

Our Zodiacs this year thankfully got us into Brown Bluff (last year it was impossible) with little ice, and what a show and stink from the massive Adelie colony. The continual comings and goings along the beach of hundreds of penguins maneuvering through and even over blocks of ice were mesmerizing. We also enjoyed the cutest of all, young Gentoos! Breeding Gulls were dotted around too.

After a very early wakeup, this morning found us steaming into Deception Island bay just after dawn, where we could see volcanic steam rising! Sadly, due to weather, we were unable to land here; instead, we steamed on to land at Half Moon Island where we enjoyed its lovely scenic Chinstrap colony and incredible scenery on yet again another glorious, sunny, cloudless morning. Here each of us could relax and enjoy the drama unraveling before our eyes that such an abundant source of food brings during these short summer months. Some Antarctic Shags gave excellent views and South Polar Skuas were ever-present. Humpbacks and Crabeater Seals were observed closely as well.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 22 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 We steamed on to Bellinghausen Station for an emergency medical evacuation, but also to visit the Russian base with its church and offer of a hike over the island too. We were lucky to find a migrant Arctic Tern here side by side with breeding Antarctic Terns feeding on ! Many enjoyed a hike over the island with Tom. Heading again south overnight.

A rare find was this migrant Arctic Tern alongside breeding Antarctic Terns feeding on krill! © Andrew Whittaker

Our final most southern destination here was the incredibly narrow and picturesque Lemaire Channel (ice allowed us through most of it), and what a great sunny day again—exactly what was required for a magnificent onboard barbeque on the open lido deck while enjoying the breathtaking scenery! The afternoon was followed by a truly spectacular Antarctic evening walking through the snow at Portal Point, another Antarctic Continental landing, and wow—what a sunset! We soaked up close-up studies of Weddell Seals and Crabeaters as ever so often they cleaned themselves with their cute furry flippers, unaware of many close, excited onlookers.

WOW, what a grand finale, with our last morning Zodiac cruise in Cierva Cove, Trinity Island graveyard for icebergs, with incredible penguins on ice, a Leopard Seal show, and superb, feeding, in your face Humpacks too! We were blessed with crazy ice and snow from amazing colors of snow algae to wondrous icicles hanging off the snow front above the rocks. Gentoo Penguins were in flocks everywhere; we enjoyed watching them porpoising as well as diving off high icebergs, almost trying to

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 23 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 —some of them better divers than others! Some lucky folks even observed a Leopard Seal trying to catch a swimming Gentoo! Beginning to head north, we stopped in mid-channel for the long awaited Antarctic plunge! A mighty well done to Laura and John for entering these freezing cold waters; gladly, it was dead calm today, so the chill factor was much less than the norm! Several sightings of more Killer Whales were phenomenal as we followed a large pod. Heading north, sadly, to get to the Drake, even more pods of Orcas showed off on the way (c type) with several small calves!

Cute Crabeater Seal resting on the cold snow gave us a great show in front of this iceberg © Andrew Whittaker

My mammal trip highlights certainly were our close encounters from our Zodiac with feeding Humpbacks—so close that I could almost touch—that we followed in the spectacular surrounds of an iceberg graveyard, and the underwater views of Gentoos and also them leaping onto the icebergs. Incredible!

We all wished a very fond farewell to one of the most magical spots on our planet and sadly headed north, homebound for two days of sailing through the Drake. Leaving, we had numerous Humpbacks wishing us all bon voyage! This sea crossing provided us with many great sea birding highlights as they followed the ship. Fortunately, the Drake experience for us all was a walk in the park, and nobody got sick on this voyage, but there were fewer birds than normal due to little wind. Although, as always, watching great albatross, petrels, skuas, and cetaceans is so much fun! An early sight of Cape Cod was

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 24 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 greeted by my spotting of an amazing Barn here! Most incredible, however, was that it had come onboard overnight in the dreaded Drake! Lord knows what he was thinking or doing as it’s not even migration time!

As we entered the Beagle Channel, we were greeted by a large raft of Sooty Shearwaters and a playful pod of Dusky Dolphins around us showing off their acrobatic nature. We enjoyed further birding off deck with Magellanic Diving-Petrels, but the best bird by far I missed (packing), an incredible record of a Red- footed (an adult white morph) seen by some lucky folks: Tresa (who got photos) and Dean and Barb, plus Mark ! Possibly a country first! Later that evening we were alongside tying up to the docks in Ushuaia.

Dusky Dolphin played alongside in the Beagle Channel © Andrew Whittaker

All told, it was an incredible mind-blowing expedition to the unrivaled seventh continent, made luxurious and safe by the ship’s superb captain and his crew who looked after us all, providing both comfort and fine daily cuisine. The executive chef and hotel staff were truly tremendous. A special thanks must go to all the wonderful Zegrahm naturalists on board who so enthusiastically shared their incredible knowledge. Also, to Dan and Kelsey for their incredible talents of making this amazing experience the best! Certainly, we are all taking back with us many amazing memories and thousands of photos/videos to remember this classic voyage into the far-flung sub-Antarctic Islands and magical untouched White Continent! A truly unforgettable voyage!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 25 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Thanks to all of you again for an incredible time on this cruise of a lifetime. I’m already looking forward to my return to this extreme wilderness. Long may it be kept this way for our children and following generations to be able to enjoy and marvel at in the same way we all did!

I look forward to meeting and birding with you all again in another spectacular and exciting VENT destination, be it in another wonderful country, my homeland UK, Finland, Nepal, or observing the world-famous spring migration in lovely Israel in 2020!

Meanwhile, take care, and as always, HAPPY BIRDING!

Mesmerizing iceberg thousands of years old © Andrew Whittaker Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands cruise aboard the Island Sky

ITINERARY:

January 5: Flying down to via Buenos Aires to Ushuaia. For some a little evening birding around Arakur Resort in Ushuaia. Welcome dinner & introductions at our plus Arakur hotel.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 26 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 January 6: An excellent day birding Tierra del Fuego National Park with a great barbeque, then on to the rubbish tip & Bahia Lapataia reserve before boarding our lovely ship midafternoon, the Island Sky. Birding the famous Beagle Channel late evening and into the ocean.

January 7: At Sea on our way to the Falklands with excellent sea watching with our first Great Albatross and Prions, Shearwaters & Petrels off the ship decks.

January 8: landing am at Steeple Jason (world’s largest Black-browed Albatross colony) with Southern Rockhoppers too. Afternoon landing at Saunders Island neck, and hike to and observed four species of penguins and more albatross and other specialties.

January 9: Port Stanley, Falkland Islands nature trek to Gypsy Cove and after an exploration of Stanley. Midafternoon leave en route to South Georgia, the icing on the cake of this cruise.

January 10-11: Sea watching for albatross, petrels, skuas & cetaceans.

January 12: Action-packed day at South Georgia, first a Zodiac tour of Elsehul then incredible Salisbury Plains for the immense 200 thousand plus pairs of King Penguins on a sunny glorious day. Sadly our planned Prion Island landing for the nesting Wandering Albatross failed due to too many Fur Seals! Instead we visited Saint Andrews, the world’s largest King colony with around a million birds, in spectacular weather!

January 13: landing at lovely Fortuna Bay with its impressive glaciers and King Penguin colony. Later landing at old whaling station of Stromness and our first Southern Elephant Seals. Some took the famous Shackleton Hike and were picked up later! Afternoon landing at the famous Grytviken old whaling station and a wee dram saluting the boss, Ernest Shackleton, then we enjoyed exploring the abandoned whaling station, fantastic museum, and post office.

January 14: Gold Harbor (my favorite spot on the planet), afternoon cruising up to the end of the amazing Drygalski Fjord with its incredible rock faces, cliffs, and hanging glaciers. Then we headed for Antarctica with excellent sea watching this evening the best of the trip.

January 15-16: Sea watching for albatross, petrels, skuas & cetaceans on our way south.

January 17: Approach Elephant Island Point Wild South Shetlands whale watching in area, then a rare close in cruise at Point Wild made famous by Shackleton and crew for spending 4 months under their upturned boat! Zodiac cruise around Cape Lookout, Elephant Island with those incredible icicles and flying penguins off icebergs! Onwards towards the White Continent of Antarctica.

January 18: WAKE UP CALL EARLY for my EMPEREOR I found on ice in the Weddell Sea at 05:40 before a wonderful stop at lovely Paulet Island, then on to Brown Bluff, Antarctic Sound, and our first White Continental stop! Visiting its huge active Adelie Penguin colony etc.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 27 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 January 19: Early wake up as we steamed into Deception Island bay where we could see volcanic steam rising! Visiting Half Moon Island and its lovely scenic Chinstrap colony. We steamed onto Bellinghausen Station visiting the Russian base. Heading south overnight.

January 20: Heading south through the picturesque Lemaire Channel with a magnificent onboard barbeque with a spectacular Antarctic evening walking through the snow at Portal Point, another Antarctic Continental landing.

January 21: WOW, what a grand finale, with a morning Zodiac in Cierva Cove, Trinity Island graveyard for icebergs with incredible penguins and Leopard Seals show and superb feeding, in your face Humpbacks too! Antarctic plunge well done to Laura & John, followed by swim in Whalers Bay in an active volcano and a hike to the old rim of the volcano overlooking Antarctica on another incredibly gorgeous clear sunny day with outstanding visibility. Heading north sadly to get to the Drake with pods of Orcas showing off on the way.

January 22-23: At Sea, Drake Passage sea watching for albatross, petrels, skuas & cetaceans. Afternoon sight of Cape Cod and an amazing Barn Owl before entering the Beagle Channel. Arrived Ushuaia late pm.

January 24: Several explore Ushuaia on a glorious sunny day and all finally flying northbound onto Buenos Aires and connections homebound after an unbelievable TRIP OF A LIFETIME!

January 25: Arrive home with amazing photos and memories!

TOP SEVEN (as picked by all the group)

1- WANDERING ALBATROSS

2- ADELIE PENGUIN

3- CAPE (PINTADO) PETREL

4- LIGHT-MANTLED ALBATROSS & EMPEROR PENGUIN

5-

6- STRIATED CARACARA

7- AUSTRAL PYGMY-OWL & MAGELLANIC WOODPECKER

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 28 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

The top pelagic seen by all the rare Antarctic Petrel © Andrew Whittaker

BIRDS:

KEY

ANT = Antarctica F = Falklands

SG = South Georgia

BC = Beagle Channel

E = Endemic TDFNP = Tierra del Fuego National Park

Antarctica, South Georgia, & The Falkland Islands

Ducks, Geese & Waterfowl Black-necked Swan Cygnus melancoryphus Tierra del Fuego National Park (TDFNP) a pair Upland Goose Chloephaga picta Common in TDFNP & Falklands Kelp Goose Chloephaga hybrida Falklands & Ushuaia waterfront Flying Steamer-Duck Tachyeres patachonicus In the park Flightless Steamer-Duck Tachyeres pteneres Seafront with young

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 29 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Falkland Steamer-Duck (E) Tachyeres brachypterus Falklands at Saunders Island & West Point Island Crested Duck Lophonetta specularioides TDFNP Bahia Lapataia & Bahia Encerrada in Ushuaia Red Shoveler Anas platalea Dozens at Bahia Encerrada Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica A few at Bahia Encerrada White-cheeked Pintail Anas bahamensis A rare find 3rd record for Ushuaia! Yellow-billed (Speckled) Teal Anas flavirostris A few at Bahia Encerrada Grebes Podicipedidae White-tufted Rollandia rolland Leader only the exciting nominate form outside Port Stanley Great Grebe major TDFNP Rio Lapataia Sheathbills Chionidae Snowy Chionis albus First seen in the Falklands, then seen at most major colonies, even in Antarctica. Oystercatchers Haematopodidae Blackish Oystercatcher Haematopus ater Falklands common Magellanic Oystercatcher Haematopus leucopodus On the Falklands with young & Lapwings Charadriidae Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Ushuaia and TDFNP Two-banded Plover Charadrius falklandicus Falklands & Allies Scolopacidae White-rumped fuscicollis Beagle Channel Magellanic Snipe (paraguaiae) magellanica Bahia Encerrada in Ushuaia, seen well Skuas & Jaegers Stercorariidae Chilean Stercorarius chilensis Beagle Channel and Cape Horn South Polar Skua Stercorarius maccormicki Portal Point our first Antarctic mainland landing, then all colonies in Antarctica S. antarcticus antarcticus This subspecies was common in the Falklands S. antarcticus lonnbergi This subspecies was common in South Georgia and Antarctica (Sub-Antarctic Skua) Parasitic Jaeger (Arctic Skua) Stercorarius parasiticus Amazingly one seen on way to Falklands Gulls, Terns & Skimmers Laridae Brown-hooded Chroicocephalus maculipennis Bahia Encerrada in Ushuaia Dolphin Gull Leucophaeus scoresbii Ushuaia, Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Common along the Ushuaia waterfront, TDFNP at Bahia Lapataia Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea Two in Bellinhausen station Antarctica! South American Tern Sterna hirundinacea Ushuaia, Beagle Channel Antarctic Tern Sterna vittata South Georgia & Antarctica Penguins Spheniscidae King Penguin Aptenodytes patagonicus Falklands first but spectacular colonies in South Georgia Emperor Penguin Aptenodytes forsteri Amazing luck find one imm Weddell Sea on ice! Adelie Penguin Pygoscelis adeliae Antarctica Pygoscelis papua Falklands at Saunders Island where thousands

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 30 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 were nesting, South Georgia & Antarctica too Chinstrap Penguin Pygoscelis antarcticus Magellanic Penguin Spheniscus magellanicus Falklands where we saw many at the entrance to their nesting burrows Eudyptes chrysolophus South Shetlands mostly Southern Rockhopper Penguin Eudyptes chrysocome Falklands at Saunders and West Point Islands Albatrosses Diomedeidae Gray-headed Albatross Thalassarche chrysostoma Black-browed Albatross Thalassarche melanophris The common albatross seen from the Beagle Channel and daily while at sea Light-mantled Albatross palpebrata Royal Albatross Diomedea epomophora Most numerous our first morning sailing towards the Falklands (Northern Royal Albatross) (D. epomophora sanfordi) One seen only an adult at sea () (D. epomophora The vast majority of our Royal sightings were epomophora) Southern’s Wandering (Snowy) Albatross Diomedea exulans Regularly at sea and around South Georgia including on the Southern Storm-Petrels Oceanitidae Wilson's Storm-Petrel Oceanites oceanicus Seen almost every day, we even saw some entering nest crevices and burrows in Antarctica (Fuegian Storm-Petrel) (Oceanites oceanicus Undoubtedly we saw this form near the South chilensis) American Mainland (inseparable in field) Gray-backed Storm-Petrel Garrodia nereis Seen just 2 days near the Falklands rare this year Black-bellied Storm-Petrel Fregetta tropica More numerous that the prior species, seen on 7 days, first on the route to South Georgia Shearwaters & Petrels Southern Giant-Petrel Macronectes giganteus Seen nearly every day except around South Georgia Northern Giant-Petrel Macronectes halli First seen at sea as we left the Falklands, then seen most days except around Antarctica Southern Fulmarus glacialoides Antarctic Petrel Thalassoica antarctica A great find a molting first year bird! Cape (Pintado) Petrel Daption capense Common, first seen around Shag Rocks the almost daily thereafter Snow Petrel Pagodroma nivea Stunning! Kerguelen Petrel Aphrodroma brevirostris Rare only one bird! Soft-plumaged Petrel Pterodroma mollis White-headed Petrel Pterodroma lessonii An amazing top find at sea a lifer for me! Atlantic (Schlegel’s) Petrel Pterodroma incerta Two distant leader only! Blue Petrel Halobaena caerulea Antarctic (Dove) Prion Pachyptila desolata Commonest south of the Convergence Slender-billed Prion Pachyptila belcheri The common Prion north of the Convergence (near the Falklands and northern Drake Passage) White-chinned Petrel aequinoctialis Common seen most days while at sea Great Shearwater Ardenna gravis Seen three days around the Falklands while at sea Sooty Shearwater Ardenna grisea Common to abundant, mostly north of the

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 31 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Convergence but a few south Manx Shearwater Puffinus puffinus One only on way to Falklands! Common Diving-Petrel Pelecanoides urinatrix Diving-Petrel ID is challenging, but we had super views and photos confirmed well for correct ID near South Georgia but very few this cruise! South Georgia Diving-Petrel Pelecanoides georgicus We saw only one sadly ID from a photographed bird. Magellanic Diving-Petrel Pelecanoides magellani One in Beagle Channel Red-footed Booby Sula sula Amazing record a first for Argentina seen by Tresa, Dean & Barb only! & Shags Phalacrocoracidae Magellanic (Rock) Cormorant magellanicus TDFNP, the Falklands and Ushuaia waterfront Phalacrocorax georgianus South Georgia & Shag Rocks Imperial Cormorant Phalacrocorax atriceps Imperial Cormorant (King) P. atriceps albiventer Falklands subspecies Imperial Cormorant (Blue-eyed) P. atriceps atriceps Mainland subspecies seen in the Beagle Channel (E) Phalacrocorax bransfieldensis Antarctica only Herons, Egrets & Bitterns Ardeidae Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Stanley in the Falklands and along the Ushuaia waterfront Ibises & Spoonbills Threskiornithidae Black-faced Ibis Theristicus melanopis Ushuaia New World Vultures Cathartidae Vulture Cathartes aura Falklands Hawks, Eagles & Kites Accipitridae Variable Hawk Geranoaetus melanoleucus Ushuaia Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus A few folks saw one in TDFNP, others had them at Arakur resort above Ushuaia & tip Owls Strigidae Barn Owl Tyto alba What an incredible bird to see in the Drake passage! I had a wandering Albatross in my binos with it!!!! Austral Pygmy-Owl* Glaucidium nana TDFNP seen very well good spotting of this pair! Woodpeckers Picidae Magellanic Woodpecker Campephilus magellanicus Holy Mackerel! Foraging in front of us all so close. An excellent find! Falcons & Caracaras Falconidae White-throated Caracara Phalcoboenus albogularis A few at tip for some Plus flying over the Arakur Striated Caracara Phalcoboenus australis The Falklands landings were enlivened by these comical scavenger-predators Southern Caracara Caracara plancus Ushuaia area Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango Ushuaia area and TDFNP, a common sight New World and African Psittacidae Austral Parakeet Enicognathus ferrugineus A few flocks in TDFNP racing around

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 32 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Furnariidae Ovenbirds & Woodcreepers

Blackish Cinclodes (Tussockbird) Cinclodes antarcticus Some saw at Ushuaia Dark-bellied Cinclodes Cinclodes patagonicus Thorn-tailed Rayadito Aphrastura spinicauda TDFNP Tyrant Flycatchers Tyrannidae Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus (Chilean) White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps One of the more common birds in TDFNP during our woodpecker hunt Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola maclovianus We saw both the larger nominate in the Falklands) as well as mentalis (a migrant here) Fire-eyed Diucon Xolmis pyrope One only in TDFNP Swallows Hirundinidae Chilean Swallow Tachycineta meyeni TDFNP, fairly common Wrens Troglodytidae House Wren Troglodytes aedon TDFNP Sedge’s (Grass) Wren Cistothorus platensis Falkland endemic this subspecies is falklandicus several splits on the way! Thrushes & Allies Turdidae Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii TDFNP and the Falklands race is nominate and endemic and smaller than South American magellanicus Wagtails & Pipits Correndera Pipit Anthus correndera In the pastures just outside of Stanley in the Falklands, very obliging birds. This again is a distinct endemic subspecies grayi which is larger than mainland subspecies. Several splits on the way! South Georgia Pipit (E) Anthus antarcticus Excellent sightings at Fortuna Bay and Gold Harbor, a huge change due thankfully to the Eradication Program, what a change for the better Finches, Euphonias & Allies Fringillidae Black-chinned Siskin Spinus barbatus Fairly common in TDFNP, also seen at West Point Island and near Stanley in the Falklands New World Sparrows Passerellidae Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Arakur Resort and TDFNP Troupials & Allies Icteridae Long-tailed Meadowlark loyca Bahia Encerrada in Ushuaia and a couple landings in the Falklands Austral Blackbird Curaeus curaeus TDFNP Tanagers & Allies Thraupidae Patagonian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus patagonicus Arakur Resort and TDFNP White-bridled Finch Melanodera melanodera Falklands Patagonian Yellow-Finch Sicalis lebruni TDFNP Old World Sparrows Passeridae House Sparrow (I) Passer domesticus Ushuaia and Stanley

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 33 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

MAMMALS

Eared Seals (Sealions) Otariidae South American Fur Seal Arctocephalus australis Beagle Channel and Cape Horn Antarctic Fur Seal Arctocephalus gazella South Georgia and Antarctic waters in the region South American Sea Lion Otaria flavescens Seen by a few folks in the Falklands Seals Phocidae Leopard Seal Hydrurga leptonyx Several sightings in Antarctic waters Weddell Seal Leptonychotes weddellii Many Antarctic mainland landing hosted a loafing seal, several others thereafter Crabeater Seal Lobodon carcinophaga Southern Elephant Seal Mirounga leonine South Georgia landings and Hannah Point in Antarctica Rorquals Balaenopteridae Minke Whale Balaenoptera These sneaky whales were seen just a couple acutorostrata times at sea near South Georgia and near Antarctica. Split as Antarctic Minke now! Sei Whale Balaenoptera borealis Seen several times at Sea on the Falklands and South Georgia crossings Fin Whale Balaenoptera physalus The most numerous whales seen at sea in deep water Humpback Whale Megaptera novaeangliae The most numerous whale seen in coastal Antarctic waters Marine Dolphins Delphinidae Dusky Dolphin Lagenorhynchus obscurus Excellent number great studies of this highly acrobatic species in the Beagle Channel Killer Whale (Orca) Orcinus orca Two great sightings in Antarctic waters, all seemed to be type C

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 34 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

Buenos Aires Pre-trip

Screamers Anhimidae Southern * torquata Otamendi Nature Reserve (ONR) Ducks, Geese & Waterfowl Anatidae White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata Costanera Sur Reserve in Buenos Aires (CSR) Fulvous Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna bicolor Black-necked Swan Cygnus melancoryphus Coscoroba Swan Coscoroba coscoroba Ringed Teal Callonetta leucophrys CSR Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis CSR Silver Teal Anas versicolor CSR Red Shoveler platalea Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica CSR Yellow-billed (Speckled) Teal Anas flavirostris Rosy-billed Pochard Netta peposaca CSR Black-headed Duck Heteronetta atricapilla A good find! Lake Duck Oxyura vittata Grebes Podicipedidae White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps Great Grebe Podiceps major Pigeons & Doves Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro Common in Buenos Aires, CSR & ONR White-tipped Dove* Leptotila verreauxi A few around ONR, heard commonly Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Abundant at CSR & ONR Cuculidae Guira Cuckoo Guira guira This comical cuckoo was seen at CSR & ONR Trochilidae Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon lucidus CSR & ONR, the common hummer in Buenos Aires Gilded Hummingbird Hylocharis chrysura We saw a few at ONR feeding on roadside Erythrina Rails, Gallinules & Coots Rallidae Gray-cowled Wood-* Aramides cajaneus Spot-flanked Gallinule Porphyriops melanops Nice looks Common Gallinule Gallinula galeata Common at CSR, some with young Red-fronted Coot Fulica rufifrons Red-gartered Coot Fulica armilata White-winged Coot Fulica leucoptera Limpkin Aramidae Limpkin Aramus guarauna Nice looks at a very cooperative couple at CSR Plovers & Lapwings Charadriidae Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Common around Buenos Aires and CSR

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 35 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Jacanas Jacanidae Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Common at CSR & ONR Gulls, Terns & Skimmers Laridae Brown-hooded Gull Chroicocephalus maculipennis Cormorants & Shags Phalacrocoracidae Phalacrocorax brasilianus CSR Herons, Egrets & Bitterns Ardeidae Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum CSR Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi The southern equivalent of our Great Blue was fairly common at CSR Great Egret Ardea (Egretta) alba CSR Snowy Egret Egretta thula Bubulcus ibis ONR Striated Heron Butorides striata CSR and ONR Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix A stunner as always! Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Leader only in flight at CSR Ibises & Spoonbills Threskiornithidae White-faced Ibis Plegadis chihi A couple flybys at ONR New World Vultures Cathartidae Black Vulture Coragyps atratus A couple soaring birds at ONR Hawks, Eagles & Kites Accipitridae Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis A few distant birds scoped at ONR

Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris A couple soaring over ONR Harris's Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus A couple soaring over CSR Kingfishers Alcedinidae Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana ONR Woodpeckers Picidae Checkered Woodpecker Dryobates mixtus Nice! Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros A couple cooperative birds at CSR, also seen at ONR Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris Leader only. Falcons & Caracaras Falconidae Southern Caracara Caracara plancus Seen both days but better looks at ONR Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango Common in Buenos Aires and ONR American Kestrel Falco sparverius Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus ONR one flying over New World and African Parrots Psittacidae Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus Common both days, massive communal nests seen at ONR headquarters Nanday Parakeet Aratinga nenday Alas flybys mostly this year White-eyed Parakeet Psittacara leucophthalma Ovenbirds & Woodcreepers Furnariidae Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris Fantastic looks! Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Common at CSR & ONR headquarters

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 36 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Curve-billed Reedhaunter Limnornis curvirostris Great looks by all Freckle-breasted Thornbird Phacellodomus striaticollis A couple cooperative pairs along the road at ONR Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomeus ONR Spix’s (Chicli) Spinetail (E) Synallaxis spixi Tityras & Allies Tityridae White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus CSR Tyrant Flycatchers Tyrannidae Small-billed Elaenia Elaenia parvirostris White-creted Tyrannulet Serpophaga subcristata Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus Blue-billed Black-Tyrant Knipolegus cyanirostris Nice find Spectacled Tyrant Hymenops perspicillatus ONR in the marsh along the road, cool bird! Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys Black-backed Water-Tyrant Fluvicola albiventer CSR Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus CSR and ONR Streaked Flycatcher Myodynastes maculatus Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus CSR and ONR Vireos, Shrike-Babblers & Erpornis Vireonidae Chivi Vireo Vireo chivi Martins & Swallows Hirundinidae Blue-and-white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea CSR and ONR Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera CSR and ONR White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa CSR Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Gnatcatchers Polioptilidae Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola Great looks in the Chaco Wrens Troglodytidae House Wren Troglodytes aedon CSR and ONR Starlings Sturnidae European Starling (I) Sturnus vulgaris Buenos Aires Mockingbirds & Thrashers Mimidae Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus Common along roadsides and open areas, both days Thrushes & Allies Turdidae Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris Seen both days, but more common at ONR Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus Seen both days, but more common at ONR Old World Sparrows Passeridae House Sparrow (I) Passer domesticus Common around Buenos Aires Finches, Euphonias & Allies Fringillidae Hooded Siskin Spinus magellanicus CSR and perhaps more numerous at ONR New World Sparrows Emberizidae Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Common in and around Buenos Aires Troupials & Allies Icteridae White-browed Meadowlark Leistes superciliaris Solitary Black Cacique Cacicus solitarius CSR

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 37 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020 Variable Oriole Icterus pyrrhopterus Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis Seen both days Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus A few individuals of this gorgeous creature in holosericeus the reeds at ONR Grayish Baywing Agelaioides badius Seen both days, one was tending a nest at Talas Asadero, not a like the following bird Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelasticus thilius Mostly flyovers at ONR Chestnut-capped Blackbird Chrysomus ruficapillus CSR Brown-and-yellow Marshbird Pseudoleistes virescens This meadowlark-like blackbird was seen at ONR, a great bird of the pampas New World Warblers Parulidae Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis A few seen well at ONR Golden-crowned Warbler* Basileuterus culicivorus Tanagers & Allies Thraupidae Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata CSR one immature this year Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca ONR Long-tailed Reed Finch Donacospiza albifrons ONR great find Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch Poospiza nigrorufa ONR great look for everybody Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola A couple seen in the courtyard at ONR headquarters Great Pampa-Finch Embernagra platensis Fairly common in the pampas of ONR Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens CSR Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens ONR

MAMMALS

Nutria (Coypu) Myocaster coypus Seen at CSR

LIZARDS

Argentine Black-and-white Tegu Salvator merianae CSR, several of these very large lizards seen along the trail

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 38 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020

Great Grebe © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 39 Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands, 2020