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Crafting Great Calvados for Three Generations

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Crafting Great Calvados for Three Generations Press release Crafting great calvados for three generations • The story of a passion spanning three generations • Christian Drouin: crafting great calvados • Calvados Christian Drouin: a family company, export-oriented and looking to the future • Calvados Christian Drouin: a tradition of quality • What future for calvados? • Our production: Our vintages Blanche de Normandie Our blends Our limited editions - the ‘Calvados Expressions’ range Pomme Prisonnière (The imprisoned apple) Pommeau de Normandie Cider Christian Drouin’s perry The story of a passion spanning three generations In 1960, Christian Drouin senior Against the background of the became the owner of the Fiefs «coffee and calva» culture, and in Sainte-Anne on the Gonneville a sector still highly regionalized hills, near Honfleur. The farm was and dominated by sales of young planted with cider-apple trees and calvados, Christian envisaged a Christian was soon seized by the quite different future for his spirits. desire to produce his own calvados. He was fascinated by the art of Christian was both rigorous and aging and, with the benefit of the enterprising: with the help of Pierre stocks produced by his father, he Pivet, a licensed distiller well known specialized in the production of the in the northern part of the Pays rarest and oldest calvados that he d’Auge, he spent the first twenty was soon delivering to the world’s years distilling his cider production. great hotels and finest restaurants. The resulting calvados was set aside In 1991-92, to meet the need to age in former sherry, port or for more space generated by the calvados casks stored in the old half- success of the firm, he transferred timbered outbuildings of the farm. production to another 17th-century He also acquired several batches farm in Coudray-Rabut near Pont of very old calvados when the l’Evèque. estates of some reputed producers In January 2004 the third generation Christian Drouin senior were sold. Christian Drouin senior joined the firm. Guillaume Drouin won his first medals in regional trained as an agricultural engineer competitions and in Paris. and wine-maker. He devoted his In 1969 Christian Drouin junior first five years in the business to went into partnership with his developing exports before taking father, but it was only in 1979 that over production management stocks were considered sufficient to and then general management of allow marketing to begin. Christian the company in 2013. Today the Drouin junior had spent almost blends are still created jointly by ten years abroad, so he naturally Guillaume and his father, who also decided to give the business an share responsibility for the export international orientation. markets. « My father inoculated me with the calvados virus » Christian Drouin junior Christian Drouin junior Guillaume Drouin 1/4 Christian Drouin crafting great calvados « Autumn is the most exciting season. You have to look at almost every tree to judge the ripeness of the fruit and plan the cider vintage. The thirty apple varieties in our orchards offer almost infinite variety. » The orchard of standards Natural fermentations and the distillation and their harvesting of ciders of different ages Apples for the production of cider and calvados The ciders produced in the autumn are kept come from two family orchards standing for several months in cider vats and tuns. between Gonneville-sur-Honfleur and Coudray- Distillation of the youngest ciders gives simple, Rabut. Some thirty apple cultivars ranging from fruity spirits that are well suited to sale as very bittersharps (20%) through bittersweets (50%) young calvados. Distillation continues until to sweets (20%) and sharps ((10%) are planted June and sometimes even into the autumn to there, solely in the form of standards. The produce calvados of more robust structure, with orchards are managed according to the rules more clearly-marked acidity. Calvados made in of organic farming. Cows graze the orchards, this way has greater potential for aging and contributing to production by fertilizing the makes it possible to create the more mature soil and eating the wormy apples in September. vintages which are the firm’s speciality. Apples are harvested on the ground when fully ripe, between September and November, and then taken to the press. In addition to the family orchards, apples also come from four farms in Gonneville-sur-Honfleur where soil conditions and production methods are identical. Pressing with moderation Before being crushed the apples are carefully washed and sorted. On emerging from the grater the apple pomace remains for several hours in a stainless-steel hopper. This allows more colour to be extracted, and produces cider with tannins that are softer and less bitter. The apples are then pressed in a pneumatic press specially adapted for the transformation of cider apples, with a moderate champagne-type pressing programme that extracts juice with low yields of only 65%. The resulting must has a frankly fruity fragrance with no tartness or bitterness. 2/4 Christian Drouin crafting great calvados « Each batch of cider is different and needs a properly adapted distillation process. » Guillaume Drouin Three historic stills to produce the finest spirits The use of small stills makes it possible to produce calvados of great refinement Christian Drouin Calvados is all distilled in three small pot-stills: The first distillation, of cider, results in an intermediate two portable stills of 500 and 600 litres, mounted on the product, a light spirit containing about 30% alcohol and same chassis, made in 1946 according to the designs of known as «les petites eaux». The heads and tails of this their former owner, the famous licensed distiller Pierre distillation, which contain unwanted ingredients, are PIVET; and a third 1,00-litre still from the Charentes discarded. The «petites eaux» are distilled in a second region, installed in 1993. distillation, the «bonne chauffe». The heads and tails are once again discarded, with cut-off points varying according to the quality of the cider. The calvados as distilled contains 70% alcohol; it is colourless and gives off a fruity aroma. 3/4 Christian Drouin crafting great calvados The aging of calvados, or how to create style and balance Christian Drouin Calvados ages in oak barrels. The more volatile components responsible for the ardent character of immature spirits are eliminated over time due to evaporation. The calvados extracts various substances from the wood, in particular tannins which give it colour and body. On contact with oxygen the substances from the wood dissolved in the spirit undergo a chemical transformation. This produces new aromas and gives the calvados its «nose». As evaporation proceeds the calvados becomes smoother and more concentrated. « With age, the fruity aroma of calvados evolves from that of fresh apples to ripe apples, cooked apples, stewed apples and then dried fruit. The nose is enriched by floral and spicy notes from the wood. The calvados becomes smoother and more concentrated as the years go by» Guillaume Drouin The cellars where Christian Drouin Calvados ages contain mostly small casks, allowing more exchanges between the wood and the spirit and, though the wood, between the spirit and the air. Consequently evaporation (the «angels’ share») is much more significant (around 4%) than that normally observed in Normandy (close to 2%). Many of the casks are old. It has been observed that these re-used casks (that formerly contained sherry, port, Rivesaltes or Banyuls) limits the uptake of bitter tannins and helps to give a fine colour, body, and great aromatic complexity. Vats of 15 to 25 hectolitres are used for racking, blending and storage of old calvados that has acquired sufficient tannin. Each blend in the range and each of the vintages has its unique aging programme suited to its age and the intended style. Christian Drouin and Guillaume taste all the barrels in the cellar every year before deciding on the use to be made of each one. Calvados acquires greater refinement with each passing year and change of container. 4/4 Christian Drouin crafting great calvados Sherry and port casks in Normandy? When Christian Drouin senior started to distil calvados, the well-known distiller Pierre Pivet advised him to age his spirit in former sherry and port casks. This was easy to do at the time since large quantities of these fortified wines were brought to Le Havre in bulk for bottling. Barrels could be bought very cheaply and the Norman distillers discovered their utility for aging calvados. But bottling in the country of origin soon became the rule, putting an end to this ready source of quality barrels. For practical reasons most calvados producers therefore stopped using them. However Christian Drouin, who judged that these port and sherry casks were an integral part of the style of his production, continued to obtain barrels directly from Portugal and Spain, and later from Banyuls. « Buying a new barrel is always a leap into the unknown: the structure of the tannins and the nature of the aromas vary from one to another. The only way to proceed is to taste the spirit.» Christian Drouin 1/2 Calvados Christian Drouin: a family company, export-oriented and looking to the future Great calvados develops over time and generations It took a visionary spirit like that of apple trees have been or will be Christian Drouin senior, combined planted between 2011 and 2015. with the passion and patience of his After planting, ten years must pass son Christian, to make Calvados before the first fruit can be gathered, Christian Drouin SAS the sixth and fifteen before a significant largest producer of calvados, and harvest. above all the specialist in rare old • The weighted average age of calvados. Drouin is the only firm to calvados sold by the Drouin family offer a range of 35 vintages dating is 14 years.
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