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Copenhagen Cool 74 THE GUIDE THE GUIDE 75 Copenhagen COOLFounded in the 10th century as a Viking fishing village, Copenhagen became the Danish capital in the 15th century, cementing its status as a regional centre. Gayatri Bhaumik goes north to explore a city where cutting-edge design meets living history with a healthy dash of Scandinavian nonchalance. www.jetsetter.hk www.jetsetter.hk 76 THE GUIDE SLEEP Scandinavians are known for their slick, minimalist designs, and while from outside Hotel Skt. Petri (Krystalgade 22; +45 3345 9100; www.sktpetri.com), a Design Hotels property, looks like an unassuming industrial block, inside it’s a cocoon of Danish cool. Expect clean lines, smooth curves, and quirky light fixtures on a white background, with Danish artist Per Arnoldi’s signature cool blues and vivid reds enlivening the 268 rooms and suites. This former 1930s department store, a favourite of visiting stars like Pharrell Williams, is hot property, so check into the Star Suite – a fully-loaded penthouse with a cozy sitting area, wraparound balcony, and jacuzzi - and leave time for Restaurant Petri’s sumptuous buffet breakfast or a tipple at Bar Rouge. The ideal pied-à-terre for boardroom- brawling visitors, the Radisson Blu Scandinavia Hotel Copenhagen (Amager Boulevard 70; +45 3396 5000; www.radisonblu.com) sits just outside the city centre, and at the heart of its business district. One of the tallest buildings around, the hotel boasts 455 well-appointed rooms ADS that meld modern minimalist aesthetics with natural elements. Gourmet travellers will enjoy international cuisine at the property's three restaurants - European at Mamas & Papas; Japanese at Restaurant Kyoto; and Thai at The Blue Elephant - while punters can roll the dice at Casino Copenhagen, the city’s only gambling den. Top: The bar at Kødbyens Fiskebar. Edging into Tivoli, the fantastical gardens Bottom: The design-savvy lobby at Hotel Skt. Petri. and amusement park that inspired Disneyland, is the Moorish-style palace since being ranked ‘world’s best restaurant,’ (Store Kongensgade 66;+45 3332 3234; that is Nimb Hotel (Bernstorffsgade 5; +45 but skip the months-long waiting list www.madklubben.dk), in the heart of the 8870 0000; hotel.nimb.dk), a sexy, intimate and book a table at the Michelin-starred city, is the original. This unfussy restaurant hotel of just 17 individually-designed suites. Kødbyens Fiskebar (Flæsketorvet features seasonal menus boasting dishes In each, you’ll find antique furnishings, 100; +45 3215 5656; www.fiskebaren. inspired by the Danish kitchen and bursting Geismar linens, Bang & Olufsen technology, dk). The hip, industrial-esque restaurant with fresh, local ingredients. Highlights and luxury AESOP bath products – most in Copenhagen’s meatpacking district include fried langoustines with cauliflower also have open fireplaces. Settle into the is the brainchild of ex-Noma sommelier and lobster soup; deconstructed apple Executive Suite, which boasts 133sqm Anders Selmer, and serves up seriously pie; and The Irresistible, coffee spiked with of unfettered luxury, including a separate fresh seafood and fine wines in a space 23-year-old Ron Zacapa rum served with bedroom and dining area, a sunken lounge, that’s all concrete floors and tiled walls, petit fours. and a private balcony with unique views with a 1,000-litre aquarium as the eye- over Tivoli. Guests are also spoilt with a host catching centrepiece. Quality, sustainable Opened in 1877, Schønnemann of bars and restaurants, including Terasse, ingredients from local producers is the focus (Hauser Plads 16; +45 3312 0785; www. Tivoli’s oldest restaurant, the ever-popular here, so order up a serve of oysters from restaurantschonnemann.dk) is one of Bar'n'Grill, and Vinotek, the understatedly the raw bar, and the Limfjorden mussels Copenhagen’s oldest eateries, and the chic wine bar. steamed in apple cider and garnished with rustic restaurant still features original herbs. wooden ceiling beams, tall oak panels, EAT fustian-upholstered seating, and sand on There are several outposts around the the basement floor. Once a favourite with Noma might be the hottest eatery in town city, but Madklubben Bistro-de-Luxe local farmers, politicians and high-rolling www.jetsetter.hk 78 THE GUIDE statue; the Opera House; Christiansborg Slot and Amalienborg Slot, the two royal castles currently in use; the Old Stock Exchange; the Royal Danish Playhouse, Our Saviour’s Church; and the National Museum of Denmark, amongst other sights of interest. The most engaging of Copenhagen’s many castles is Rosenborg Slot (Øster Voldgade 4A; +45 3315 3285; www.dkks. dk), an utterly atmospheric, gothic castle built in 1606 as a country summerhouse for King Christian IV. The historic palace now houses a plethora of royal memorabilia, including the kings’ coronation chair, the queens’ throne, and collections of art and artefacts, but the biggest draw lies in the basement, which houses the Crown Jewels, and the Danish Crown Regalia. Make sure to pack a picnic and spend an idyllic afternoon in Kongens Have; the ‘King’s Garden’ is Denmark’s oldest royal Left: One of Copenhagen's fashion-forward clothing boutiques. garden, and one of the most picturesque. Right: The brooding Rosenborg Slot. The magical fairy tales of Denmark’s businessmen now flock here to indulge in that the old bookshelves that line the most famous author were a part of an extensive menu that includes everything walls may just open to reveal hidden many childhoods, and the itinerary by from herring and chicken to eel and tartar, doors leading to other bar areas. Order Copenhagen Walking Tours (+45 4081 although smørrebrød – the traditional the award-winning North Sea Lemonade, 1217; www.copenhagen-walkingtours. Danish open-face sandwich – is the house a tropical, crisp drink bursting with Nordic dk) offers an inside look at the city as special. The restaurant is lunch-only, flavours, and brood over your next killer ad it was when Hans Christian Andersen so book ahead for a lingering meal, and campaign. was resident. Explore 19th century finish with a chilled shot of one of the 130 Copenhagen’s crooked backstreets, quaint schnapps and aquavits on offer. A cozy bar in the city centre, Bar 7 buildings, alleys, and secret courtyards; (Studiestræde 7; +45 3211 1771; www. see old landmarks like the Tivoli Gardens, PLAY barsyv.com) feels like a sophisticated the Cathedral of Copenhagen, and the house party. Creatively divided areas Round Tower; and get inside tips on local A city legend, Jazzhus Montmartre featuring different design aesthetics, old- favourites, all while quickly orientating (Store Renegade 19A; +45 3172 3494; school TVs propped in corners, and an www.jazzhusmontmartre.dk) is an yourself in the city. eclectic mix of furniture somehow come intimate jazz venue where greats like Stan together to make you feel like you’re at Getz, Chet Baker, Miles Davis, and James a friend’s house – although most friends Brown have taken the stage. The room won’t have a glass-top grand piano is dominated by the stage – wreathed or seven-metre bar in gleaming wood by rich, red drapes – and patrons are lying around. Settle into a conversation- seated at tables ideally placed to catch conducive corner, and order a tipple from a the performance. Music lovers can dine drinks list that features innovative cocktails early on ever-changing three-course like The Kester, an indulgent concoction menus inspired by Italian flavours, before of Richard Hennessy Cognac, Gordon's catching the performances at 8pm. Orange Gin, and other rare spirits. Recently reopened, The Jane (Gråbrødretorv 8; +45 2613 4510; www. EXPERIENCE thejane.dk) is a sprawling nightclub and For a different perspective, head to bar where Mad Men’s Don Draper would the famous harbour area of Nyhavn have sipped whiskey had he ever ended and jump aboard one of Canal Tours up in Copenhagen. The dark, sexy space Copenhagen’s (Nyhavn 3; +45 3266 is decked out with leather chesterfields 0000; www.stromma.dk) big sightseeing and dark wood panelling, and boasts a boats to explore the city from the water. fireplace and large wood bar in the main On the one-hour cruise through the room – but adventurous guests will find waterways, you’ll see the Little Mermaid www.jetsetter.hk.
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