WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 1

Wrangell St. Elias News

“Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty” Volume Sixteen Issue Three May & June 2007 $2.50 Local sights & personalities

WSEN staff photo Photo courtesy Joe Darnell We had to wait a bit to get to the McCarthy’s own Iditarod musher, weather equipment to do an observation Jeremy Keller prepares to start the race. when this young moose wanted to share the trail at the WSEN homestead.

Photos above and right courtesy the Rowland family These awesome views are only available to those willing to go into the backcountry. Above: The towering Mile-High-Cliffs. Right: The group goes boldly to the face of the glacier. PAGE 2 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 A note from the publisher know we are not the only ones Donna, own a beautiful log cabin pringtime in McCarthy who do. One subscriber, whose on Swift Creek which Kenny Sis delightful! It is April name has slipped me, called keeps manicured and decorated 27th and there is only a wanting to know when the spring all summer with beautiful hang- trace of snow to be seen at our break was going to take place. I ing flower baskets—always ready office and home west of the Ken- assumed she wanted to read the for his visiting family members nicott River. The neighborhood Rowlands’ story, but now that I who also love this place. is awakening out of winter mode, think about it, she may have At this time of year, Rick and snowmachines are now stored wanted to join in on the outdoor I must split our time with get- away until next snowfall and the fun! ting the May/June issue written 4-wheelers, our major summer This leads me to thank our and published and the local an- transportation, are now out and regular contributors such as Don nual visitor’s guide called, “A about. Welty, George Cebula, Peggy Visitor’s Guide to Kennicott & New, but not unknown, faces Guntis and frequent story writer, McCarthy.” Both publications are returning to town and coun- Kenny Smith. Every one of these are projects we enjoy making tryside, gearing up for the fresh folks has a valuable stake in the available to those who are inter- season that is on its way in. Many McCarthy area. Don, along with ested in visiting our area. If you folks commented that this re- his wife Lynn, own a home and would like to see what McCarthy cent winter was the quietest one both work locally in the area. and Kennicott are like during they can recall. I have to agree George also calls McCarthy the summer months, please feel with them. Perhaps more neigh- home, works during the busy free to visit our web site at mc- bors are taking up traveling to summer season and, although he carthy-kennicott.com and click far away places. Whatever the is retired from the weather ser- on the Visitor’s Guide link. The case, most begin their reappear- vice (NOAA), he continues to 2007 guide is due to be distrib- ance in March. serve the local community as a uted by May 15th and the online Speaking of March, you will source of weather-related infor- version will be updated shortly enjoy Keith and Laurie mation. Peggy and husband, Jim, thereafter. Rowland’s account of Spring visit their McCarthy summer WSEN welcomes aboard the Break 2007 starting on page 6. home yearly. Jim is an electri- following subscribers: Shelaine For those of you who do not cian and is frequently called up- Williamson, ID; Karl Heinz, AK; know the Rowlands, they live in on for his expertise in these Online subscribers: Elizabeth the McCarthy area year around. areas. He also volunteers time Horan, RI; Judy Richards, CA. They often contribute stories improving historical displays for and articles to WSEN which Rick our McCarthy Kennicott Histori- and I greatly appreciate. We cal Museum. Kenny and his wife,

Wrangell St. Elias News (USPS 011301) VOL. Sixteen, Issue Three, May & June 2007. Published every two months at McCarthy, Alaska. McCarthy, PO Box MXY, Glennallen, AK 99588-8998. Phone (907) 554-4454. FAX (907) 554-4494 E-mail: [email protected] “Copyright © 2007 by Wrangell St. Elias News. No part of this publication may be reproduced by any means without the express permission of the publishers.” Contributors to this issue: Peggy Guntis, George Cebula, Ned Rozell, Don Welty, Keith and Laurie Rowland,Jim Gifford, Sally Gibert, Molly Mylius and Kenny Smith. Subscription price is $14 for one year in the USA. Canada $16. Other countries $23. Advertising rates upon request. Deadline for publication in next issue is June 15. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT GLENNALLEN, AK. 99588. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Wrangell St. Elias News, McCarthy #42, PO Box MXY, Glennallen AK 99588-8998. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 3 Items of Interest

celebrating another year certain- Mike reports seeing a moose Kurt, Peggy and Kelsey ly beats the alternative, Kurt! cow and her calf several times Smith: It’s springtime in the Mc- May you have many more. between Kennicott and McCa- Carthy area. Folks are starting to Ralph and Tyee Lohse: rthy. Samantha (Sammy), Mike’s come out of their winter hiber- Ralph and son Tyee spent a cou- dog, seems to think he is provid- nation and the sounds of prog- ple of weeks in March at their ing her with additional play- ress are once again being heard property on the banks of the mates. Mama moose isn’t in the neighborhood. Lakina River at Long Lake. impressed. Thanks for giving us The Smiths live out near the While there they succeeded in a “heads up,” Mike! Nizina River so their trek — salvaging the second floor of Howard and Chris Haley: about 9-miles one way — into their house which was swept The Haleys recently returned McCarthy proper takes some do- from its foundation during the from a spring break of their own ing. Peggy says Kurt has begun flooding events of last fall. With —a week-long trip to other parts those early seasonal chores on the help of a few neighbors, of the state. Besides taking in an the McCarthy Mercantile’s build- Ralph’s brother Bob, and a Anchorage shopping trip for sup- ing which includes plumbing and piece of heavy equipment, the plies, they attended the funeral carpentry projects while Kelsey, Lohses were able to maneuver of Howard’s hunting partner at 14, and Peggy busy themselves the remains of their home off Moose Pass. While in the area, with cleaning and painting. Lo- the river ice and onto dry land. they stopped at Seward and pur- cals are chomping at the bit for Mike Monroe: It is the third chased a sightseeing package. the town’s only grocery store to week in April and I was curious (Usually those of us who live open its doors. She assured me to know what the conditions here are providing services to they will be open for business by were like at Kennicott. When I those who are visiting the McCa- at least the Memorial Day week- called, Mike was outside working rthy and Kennicott area. Chris end, hopefully sooner. on a newly-acquired 4 wheeler. explained that she had never We can expect to see a new His snowmachine is now ready to been to Kenai or Seward so this smiling face behind the counter be parked for the summer. was a great time to check them this summer, says Peggy. Her He assures me Kennicott is out.) The special package includ- daughter, Katy, 23, is arriving experiencing springlike condi- ed a 4-hour tour boat ride on this week and will be here all tions. Most of the snow is gone Resurrection Bay, viewing the summer, giving an extra helping and he convinced me that he whales and the porpoises. They hand to the Merc’s customers. actually sees green grass sprout- certainly saw a different variety The chomping at the bit ing. He is thoroughly enjoying all of animals than are seen in the phrase made me think of the sunshine. His solar panels McCarthy area. Chris says they Kelsey’s item of interest. She is are making good use of it, too. had a great time and even spent desiring to sell her horse, Lily, to The only problem Mike has these an extra day in Seward, admiring a good home. Lily is 14 years old days is that he has more electric- the unique “setting and charac- and a Registered Haflinger. If ity than he can use. (What a ter” of the town. any of you are interested in con- problem, Mike!) I’m not sure if Now that they are home, it is tacting Kelsey, you may call her Mike wants any more electrical time to return to their unfin- at 554-4488. appliances, but if you have any ished chores. Howard is working We want to say “happy belat- extra lying around you want to on his new generator and battery ed birthday to Kurt” who spent get rid of, you might want to bank, just a few bugs to work out his special day in Fairbanks with give Mike a call. Just maybe he’ll of the system, says Chris. She other family members. He isn’t take them off your hands. was just getting ready to walk telling his age these days, but out the door and tackle outside cleanup chores. Springtime is PAGE 4 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 here and my neighbors are on season. Thanks for staying in would be going home soon. (He the move! touch, Jay! had become very attached to the Neil Darish: Another neigh- Volunteer Trail Work in Pioneer Home and was usually bor making wise moves these Kennecott: The following item is stressed out when he wasn’t days is Neil. He says, “We are an announcement from Stephens there.) The last time he was in busy getting ready for the sea- Harper, Kennecott Area Park the hospital —about a month son, of course! Stripping the Ranger. “Please help out the Na- ago —I stopped by to see how he floors in the Lodge, saloon and tional Park Service and your was doing the day before his re- hotel and refinishing them in community by joining us for a lease and found him in an unusu- time to open. The plant starts day of trail work to fix a flood- al state of mental clarity. We had are looking strong and healthy, damaged section of the Root a wonderful and wide-ranging with about 70 varieties of flowers Glacier Trail at Bonanza Creek. conversation about philosophy, for landscaping. I hope to do a We have a lot of rocks to move religion, the 1980 McCarthy few new flower beds by the hotel and a bridge that can be reused Creek flood and numerous other this spring. This is the easiest but is about 50 feet from the topics that illustrated a sudden, season start so far.” new creek channel. The more we renewed ability to maintain a Brad Grossweiler: Brad, can accomplish at Bonanza complex train of thought for owner of Kennicott River Lodge Creek the more our efforts will many minutes at a time. Our and Hostel, just arrived at his free up the NPS crew to work on unexpected conversation re- place of business after spending the real challenge which will be minded me of all those winter the winter in Florida as a princi- bridging Jumbo Creek. So, pass evening visits in McCarthy when ple caregiver to his mother. He the word and come join us; the we would sit around the wood is busy unboarding windows, the bugs won’t even be biting yet. stove and drink tea and talk. yearly task of spring cleanup, all Where: Meet at the General Back in those days he was always in anticipation of a “good sum- Store in Kennecott. When: stretching my mind with his mer.” Wednesday, May 16th at 9:30 sometimes unusual yet always interesting ideas. So, last month Welcome back, Brad! We a.m. Bring: Lunch and work was like he was suddenly trans- wish you many productive days gloves; NPS will provide tools.” ported back in time about three and good-natured customers. Stephens can be reached at: cell#907-960-1011 or email at: years. He wasn’t as clear-headed Jay Bitely: Many of the Mc- [email protected] as his good old days in McCa- Carthy area folks will remember Sally Gibert shares: WSEN rthy, but he showed abilities I Jay who spent the winter with us ‘knew’ he had lost due to perma- a few years back. He touched subscriber and McCarthy land- owner, Sally, is well-known in our nent brain damage from his suc- base with us recently via email cession of small strokes. letting us know all was well with town and although her home is “We engaged in conversation him. The first of April Jay was in Anchorage, she and her family steadily for an hour and a half on enjoying life in a little surfing visit as often as they can. In a that Saturday afternoon until I village on the northern coast of recent email to friends, she finally had to leave. I saw him Peru. He had spent a long week- shared of the sudden and unex- the next day back at the Pioneer end, he said, in the northern An- pected death of past McCarthy Home and it was like his episode des hiking and playing in the resident, Loy Green. (His obitu- of clarity had never happened. mountains. At the present, Jay ary is included in this issue, Based on my understanding of should be on his way back to the thanks to Sally and husband, the documented condition of his good ole USA and to Chicago to Dick’s efforts.) Included in her brain, his sudden but short-lived spend time with his sister. Then, message was the following ac- revival of true consciousness was as his custom is, he will spend count of her visit with Loy short- seemingly physically impossible, the summer in Curtis, Michigan, ly before his death. yet he was undeniably present helping family run and operate a “Whenever Loy was in the and highly communicative the fishing lodge during the trout hospital, I would try to visit him every day to reassure him that he day before. His steady decline in WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 5 eating and social contact started has big hands and feet and long Our hearts are filled with grat- shortly thereafter. Now that he is fingers and toes.” itude to the Lord for the miracu- gone, I see that, among other Joshua and Sharia lous work of grace He has done in things, this fleeting opportunity (Buckingham) Hale are blessed both of our hearts to prepare us was a precious gift to both of us over the birth of their son, Jere- for this moment in time. “This is —a reminder of all the special miah Victory Hale, who was born the Lord’s doing and it is marvel- experiences and memories we on February 8th at their home in ous in our eyes.” shared over the last 30 years. I Palmer. Jeremiah Victory weighed In His Sovereign love and mer- am very grateful.” 8 lb. 2 oz. and is described by a cy, the Lord brought Elishaba close family member as “very (with her siblings) to live with the Memorial for Ed large, very strong, a healthy baby Buckingham family two years ago. LaChapelle: There will be a me- boy and beautiful.” He has wonderfully transformed morial gathering for Ed her into a woman like the one LaChapelle on Thursday, May 31 Mike McCann and Dorothy Adler are the proud parents of a mentioned in Proverbs 31: “The —his birthday —at 3:30 pm in son —Logan Michael McCann. heart of her husband doth safely the Kennecott Recreation Hall at Logan was born at 3:58 pm on trust in her...” Kennecott. Wednesday, April 18th at Fairbanks The Lord has faithfully used Following will be a potluck Memorial Hospital. Logan weighed these past few years as a time of supper and a more informal cele- 8 lb. 8 oz. and was 21.25 inches. conforming Matthew to the image bration of Ed's life. Local resi- Mike reports, “Mom and baby are of Christ and causing him to dents are asked to bring food doing good!” adopt a mindset to serve God enough to provide for a few out- Joseph and Lolly whole-heartedly. A little more of-town guests. Please spread the (Buckingham) Hale are pleased than one year ago, he came to live word to those who might wish to to share the good news of the with the Buckingham family. As a attend. David, Ananda and Meg birth of their son, Benaiah Faith- result of God’s arrangement, the welcome your presence. ful Hale, who came into the world Hales and the Buckinghams have become like ‘family’ to both Mat- Baby announcements at 1:43 p.m. on Sunday, April 8th. Benaiah Faithful was born at his thew and Elishaba. Editor’s note: The first three Palmer home weighing in at about How many grooms have the baby announcements were inad- 8 lbs. and was 19 ½ inches long. privilege of living in close quarters vertently left out of the March/April “Our hearts are full of grateful- with the bride’s family for a year WSEN. We apologize to the proud ness to the Lord for His great before becoming engaged? This parents who wanted to share their grace towards us all,” says opportunity has given us the good news with you all! (Grandma) Martha Buckingham. chance to see the best of Christ, Matt and Julie Miller of Ken- Psalm 139: 13 & 14: “For You and the worse of the flesh in each nicott are delighted with the birth formed my inward parts; You cov- other. We go into marriage with of their baby girl —Ashley Jayne ered me in my mother’s womb. I the confidence that He has chose —born on January 21st at 9:07 am will praise You, for I am fearfully us for each other... that together, in Palmer at the Mat-Su Regional and wonderfully made; Marvelous He might continue to conforming Medical Center. Ashley Jayne are Your works, And that my soul us to His image. weighed 7 lbs. 2.3 oz. and was knows very well.” We feel that God has brought 20.50" long. Wedding announcement us in part into this place as a re- Tim and Tenley Nelson of Nel- sult of your love and prayers on Matthew Paul Speckels and son Lake at Mile 11 of the McCa- our behalf. Please continue to Elishaba Trust Hale will be unit- rthy Road, announce the birth of pray for us as we start our life ing in marriage on May 12, 2007. their son, Conner Sinclair Nel- together...that our lives might be You are cordially invited to join us son, on January 6th at 7:58 pm. lived in a way that would honor for the wedding ceremony at 2:00 Conner was born in Wasilla and and glorify the Lord Jesus Christ. weighed 7 lb. 7 oz. and measured pm, held at the Lazy Mountain Matthew and Elishaba 20 1/4 inches long. Says Mom: Bible Church in Palmer. “He is cute and very healthy. He Dear Family and Friends, PAGE 6 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 Spring Break 2007

infinite varieties and shapes of ice- side hilling, brodies, jumps—you hey began arriving in bergs, some many acres in size. We name it—and Dave Persón had a crossed the pressure ridge, went brand new Summit 800 Skidoo, Tdroves on March 9th and 10th, aliens invading our boldly to the face of the glacier and which was more capable than he peaceful little town, seeking release crawled into its eerie, dark blue in- was. Dave kept us entertained by from their pent up city life. Okay, terior through ominous, gaping climbing up every chute he could actually it was cousins, uncles, cracks in its surface. After explor- find, ‘til it looked like he would kiss aunts, and friends arriving for our ing around the glacier, we returned the rocks at the top. He also kept annual spring break snow sport ex- home. us amused with his Eskimo rolls, travaganza. Wednesday the 14th. We awoke nose plants, tail dives and other an- We had a three day trip to a beautiful day, and by 10:00 am tics, including high-marking trees planned, so Sunday at church we 14 guys on snowmachines pulling with his bumper. All the while, the asked our local weather man, sleds were making tracks for a pri- continuous drone of the Persón and George, when we should go, and he vate cabin in the Chugach Moun- Rowland boys’ under-powered Ski- suggested later in the week. tains, 65 miles away. We traveled Doo Tundras, in their endless at- on the Bush Alaska Freeway—down tempts to keep up with the big ma- Monday the 12th was a beautiful chines, provided an acoustic effect day, so we took a day trip to the the Kennicott River, down the uncannily reminiscent of a hive of Nizina Glacier (90 miles round Nizina River, up the Chitina River, bees in swarm mode. trip). This year any place north of up the Chakina River, up the West the Chitina River received almost no Fork, and up Monahan Creek. By All too soon, the sun began to snow, especially the Nizina drain- then it was afternoon, we had en- sink behind fire-rimmed mountains, age. On top of this, the Nizina val- tered the Chugach Mountains, and and we headed back to the cabins ley has strong winds that strip the there was 4 feet of powdery, un- for dinner and rest. 80 miles for the snow from the gravel bars. We had tracked snow on the ground. We day. a miserable trip bouncing and rico- unhitched our sleds and climbed Later that evening, the guys cheting over endless gravel bars. our way up a small drainage till we voted unanimously to honor Jay Wil- But what the Nizina lacked in snow, topped out at a 6,500 foot plateau liams’ better half with the Nicest it more than made up for in wild known as Steamboat. From here, Wife Award, on account of the deli- and majestic scenery. We stopped magnificent vistas stretch out wher- cious banana bread she sent with under the towering Mile-High Cliffs, ever you look, and you can travel in Jay to share with all of us. We’re feeling awed by their formidably any direction on relatively gentle hoping for some stiff competition in soaring heights. Next, we cruised terrain. The plateau drops off this category next year! up a small side drainage to check abruptly to the north, giving awe- On the other end of the spec- out a summer waterfall that winter’s some views of the Chitina watershed trum, the Worst Vittles Award went freezing temperatures had trans- and the Wrangell-St. Elias peaks to Jeff Green this year when, one formed into a 100-foot icicle. Soon farther back. We didn’t stay long – morning at breakfast, we found him we were at Nizina Lake at the toe of it was about -15°F and there was a choking down a frozen vegetarian the Nizina Glacier. There was no decidedly chilly breeze, so we head- MRE which had only half-thawed lake here when I was a boy, but one ed down. Back at the sleds, we with the chemical heat pack. While has formed as the glacier has re- hitched up and got back on the all the guys were sympathetic with treated, and now it is quite large – Freeway—up the Klu River, down Jeff’s distasteful plight, no one of- over 3 miles long. The glacier the broad, expansive Hanagita Val- fered to trade meals. ley, and arrived at the cabins around calves huge icebergs into the lake Friday morning dawned clear 6:00 pm. 95 miles for the day. during the summer months, but and cold… -25°F. Another nice day. during the winter the glacier move- Thursday morning dawned We chose a different valley and ment slows down (it advanced about bright, clear and cold (-25°F). We played in the high country powder 10 – 15 ft. this winter, judging by went up Sangaina Creek and played until 2:00, then raced back to the the pressure ridge in the lake di- on high glaciers and hanging val- cabins, packed and cleaned up, and rectly in front of the glacier), and leys, surrounded by the raw splen- hit the trail for McCarthy, arriving the lake ice locks the front of the dor and white brilliance of God’s around 7:00 pm. 120 miles for the Glacier into place. We were able to amazing creation. Snow conditions day. explore around the lake and gawk at were excellent for high marking, WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 7 ing places that Sometime after lunch, we ar- were impass- rived at the cabin and unhooked our able. He and sleds, significantly lightening our the boys had machines’ loads. Then we were free scouted the to cruise the last couple miles to route a few the toe of the Lakina Glacier, where weeks before, we buzzed around on our snowma- so Keith came chines, watched Kaleb ski down the prepared with fairly vertical face of the glacier, 1x6’s, a ham- shouted encouragement to those mer, and a whose machines were stuck, and of pocket full of course, feasted our wondering eyes nails. With on the spectacular panorama all these, he made around us. a bridge over a All the boys, ages 7 – 15, had spot where a volunteered to help decongest the Photo courtesy the author creek had small cabin by sleeping outside in Rowland girls having fun in the backcountry formed a steep our tent, the “Arctic Oven” (now, walled gorge there’s a misnomer!). With no heat as it flowed in the tent except that produced by The Fairbanks crew returned to into the Lakina. Bridge construc- their small, boyish bodies, and tem- their various homes over the next tion time: 15 minutes, max. I was peratures dropping to 25° below couple of days with happy memo- impressed. zero that still, moonlit night, I’d say ries, great pictures, and, more im- There were five open-water the Rowland boys deserve the Sam portantly, no emergency room bills! crossings along the way, one of McGee Cold Camper Award for Our next big trip was the Row- which turned out to be Grandpa & 2007. In the morning, chilly boys land Family Lakina Campout, which Grandma’s “Water-loo!” After Rog- began trickling into the cozy cabin, my wife, Laurie, will tell you about. er and Grandpa fished the one by one. But soon we realized Hi—Laurie here. It’s no fair snowmachine—and Grandma—out that not all of them had arrived. that the men get to do all the snow- of the much-too-gleefully chuckling Where was Axel? Roger went out to machine trips, leaving the women stream, they continued on, slightly the tent, opened the flap, and and little ‘uns home, so we Row- damp, but undaunted. peered inside. No Axel. Roger went lands like to take a family-style With 16 people, lots of gear, into the tent and reached his hand snowmachine trip during spring and only seven snowmachines deep down inside Axel’s sleeping break. This year’s destination: a among us all, a few of the kids used bag. There was Axel, curled up in a small, old log cabin near the head- a tow rope and skis or snowboards tight little ball with Tishna, the pup- waters of the Lakina River. There for transportation. This year’s py, in the very bottom of his sleep- were 16 family members on the trip Bronze Legs Tro- this year—Grandpa & Grandma, phy goes to Kaleb Keith & I with our five kids and dog, and Kimberly, who and Roger & Tammy with their five skied at the end kids and new puppy. To get to our of a tow rope, Arc- destination, we snowmachined 15 tic Man style, the miles out the McCarthy Road, then entire trip. They headed north up the Lakina River. each logged 60 Eager enthusiasm mounted as the miles the first day, broad expanse of powder-covered and roughly 75 river bed opened up before us, and miles the second snow-clad mountains reared up on day of our excur- either side. “I will lift up mine eyes sion. And all with- to the hills…” out breaking a Keith took the lead, blazing a sweat or com- trail for those of us who needed it plaining of sore and doing the hard work of bridg- muscles. ing, clearing, and otherwise improv- Photo courtesy the author Rowland family on Lakina Campout. PAGE 8 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 ing bag. Boy and dog were could carry on the backs of our ma- gone farther and done more, but at peacefully sleeping, all snug and chines and headed off into the sun- some point you just have to head warm. rise. The weather was perfection back to the barn, so reluctantly, we I arrived home that evening itself—clear but mild. Putting it in did. As it was, both Don and Roger tired, stiff, hungry, sunburnt, sore… a nutshell, we traversed the ran out of gas about a mile from and happily gratified. It was a fun, Chugach Mountains between the home! exciting, beauty-filled trip, yes, but Hanagita Valley and the Well, the snowmachines, skis, more importantly, I got a reminder Tana/Bremner Valley in a big loop. and snowboards are put away for of just how wonderful each member At the end of the day, we had logged another year, and the kids are all of this family is, and what a blessing 165 miles, of which only about 20 back to their school books. But we each one is to me. were backtracking miles. We trav- thank God for this awesome And now, back to you, Keith… eled on seven rivers and numerous country—the work of His creative creeks and small drainages. We The best trip of the year for me hands—and we thank Him for crossed eleven mountain passes, watching over us while we experi- occurred on March 30th. My broth- ranging in elevation from 2500 feet er, Roger, neighbor Don Welty and I ence (sometimes recklessly, I’ll ad- to 6000 feet. We felt we could have strapped on as much fuel as we mit) His handiwork. 2007 Long Lake ice-fishing derby —another success!

Varden trout was the most popular and that, too, received plenty of at- he third annual ice-fishing variety caught. All the above win- tention. Tderby took place on Satur- ners took home new ice-fishing rods Visiting spring breakers from as day, March 24th. Most of and lures supplied by Grand Marshal far away as Dutch Harbor (Roger the 44 folks in attendance arrived and Long Lake resident, Jim Kreb- and Tammy Rowland and family), by snowmachine and sleds. Those lin. Several other participants were Anchorage (Neil O’Donnell, wife that drove their vehicles were eager- treated to puzzles. Margaret, daughter Catherine and ly ferried by the younger set —who Jim decided to add to the ex- their guests from Hawaii), Valdez seemed to enjoy keeping their ma- citement (just in case the fish (Carl Gressel) and Palmer (Ken and chines in good running order. weren’t biting!) by collecting bowl- Nancy Rowland) all joined the local Thanks to Tyee attendees in the yearly Lohse, most of the ice fun-on-the-ice event. holes had been drilled A bon fire was set and awaited the incom- ablaze, food was shared ing fisherfolk by 10 and set out on folding a.m. That’s when the tables while Mark Vail major action began — brought out his annual at least on the side of pot of chili. It’s hard to those wetting a line. As beat Mark’s homemade for the fish...well, they chili after a hard morn- held back on their end ing on the ice! Thanks, of the deal and the Mark, for your handi- catch for the day was work in our annual der- slim compared to previ- bies. Young and older ous years. WSEN staff photo eagerly roasted their The first fish pulled Happy Derby winners. Left-to-right: Cal Ward Jr., Bonnie Kenyon, hot dogs while catching in was by Kaleb Row- Owen Mozen. up on news of family land. Cal Ward, Jr. and friends. hooked the most fish; Owen Mozen Much thanks goes to Jim Kreb- may not have been the youngest ing balls and pins for the creation of lin for keeping the snow shoveled off fisherman, but he certainly qualified an ice bowling lane. Young folk and the bowling lane and coming up as catching the most fish within the adults alike enjoyed the new addi- with such a grand idea in the first younger catagory; and Bonnie Ke- tion to this year’s derby. A volley place. See ya next year! nyon, the largest at 2 ½ lbs. Dolly ball court was also set up on the ice WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 9 DOT’s Northern Region pulls plug on McCarthy Road project

ing the McCarthy Road, and during “That this decision was made epartment of Transpor- his administration the state was with absolutely no prior public no- Dtation and Public Facili- able to obtain a $5 million dollar tice, public meetings or public in- ties’ (DOT&PF) officials appropriation as part of the 2005 put is also very distressing. What announced on April 25 that they SAFETEA-LU transportation appro- was the point of having everyone were officially stopping work on the priation. Normally this money would attend all those meetings when McCarthy Road Improvement Proj- have to be given back to the federal DOT&PF was going to throw in the ect Environmental Impact Study government when a project is can- towel two-thirds of the way through (EIS) “due to a lack of funding for celed. However, DOT&PF officials the EIS? The way the decision was construction.” say they have gotten an exemption handled suggests to some in our “This is a large project and our from the Federal Highway Authority area that the termination of the construction estimates are now well and will be assessing what projects four year EIS process reflects, as above $100 million dollars,” said on the McCarthy Road can be devel- much as anything, a lack of interest Steve Titus, DOT&PF Northern Re- oped from the remaining monies. in the project by DOT&PF’s North- gion Director. He continued, “The Critics say the Northern Region ern Region and a desire by the EIS has been underway since 2002 has taken what has been a long- Northern Region to build roads clos- and will take several more years to term public process and made an er to Fairbanks. If that is indeed a complete.” He added, “We need to arbitrary, in-house decision without motivating factor, it would be a very spend our finite resources on proj- public input. parochial view given the importance ects that will turn dirt, and it’s not “Stakeholders throughout Alas- of the McCarthy Road upgrade to realistic to expect to see construc- ka have participated for over a de- the tourism industry statewide.” tion on this project anytime soon.” cade in various public forums to National Park Service officials Since an EIS normally carries a help define a plan for the McCarthy were surprised and not pleased with wide range of alternatives, from “no- Road upgrade project and, while the the decision. build” to whatever large-scale proj- progress by the state has been slow, According to Jim Stratton, last ect the planners envision, it is not there was nonetheless a feeling that year the NPS reprogrammed fund- clear what process the Northern progress was being made,” said Na- ing within their budget to support Region used to assign the $100 mil- tional Parks and Conservation the construction of four waysides lion dollar figure to the project. Association’s Jim Stratton in a let- along the McCarthy Road, complete Although officials have consis- ter to Governor Palin criticizing the with bathrooms and picnic tables. tently stressed that the work being move. These were to be the first visitor done by the local DOT maintenance “No one had heard that DOT roadside amenities on the road and personnel is of a temporary nature, was planning to pull the plug,” this was being done with the as- that the road bed is that of a pio- wrote Statton. “It was a complete sumption the state was continuing neer road and needs to be recon- surprise.” its part of the overall access im- structed before any lasting In fact, as recently as December provement by looking at road up- improvements are possible, they are of 2005, DOT&PF had written to grade options. now taking a different tact. the Coalition for Access to McCa- “I would like to see the DOT The success of last year’s main- rthy (CAM), stating, “Completion finish the EIS — even if they finish tenance project (primarily the hug- of the EIS remains a priority. We it with a scaled down proposed ac- a-boulder bend project) caused plan to have the public review Draft tion that is fiscally more achiev- highway officials to look more criti- EIS and public hearing in August able,” said Meg Jenson, cally at the larger project. “We were 2006. After that the Final EIS could superintendent of Wrangell-St. Elias able to make significant improve- be ready in January 2007 and the National Park and Preserve. “The ments to this road last year through Record of Decision issued in sum- beauty of an EIS is that the pro- our preventive maintenance pro- mer 2007.” posed action can be retooled at ev- gram.” Said John MacKinnon, The Coalition for Access to Mc- ery step of the process,” she said, DOT&PF Deputy Commissioner for Carthy also wrote the Governor, “and can incorporate a full range of Highways. harshly criticizing the decision. activity between 'no-action'(status Former Governor Murkowski quo) and proposed action.” was an strong supporter of upgrad- PAGE 10 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 CVTC to install new phone system in McCarthy

phone service with options for Inter- Copper Valley has recently opper Valley Telephone net access. All CVTC fixed custom- turned up this network in the Cwill be installing an all ers will receive new equipment this Glennallen/Copper Basin area, Val- new 3G digital wireless summer as the service is transferred dez, Whittier and Prince William telephone and data network in Mc- from the old analog system to the Sound. Customers in these areas Carthy this summer. This all new new CDMA digital network. are now benefiting from greatly im- system will provide voice, data & Wireless customers will enjoy proved voice quality, along with cus- high speed Internet access for both higher quality service, a host of ad- tom calling features, text messaging Copper Valley Telephone fixed wire- ditional calling features, including and voice mail services. Data and less customers and Copper Valley Call Forwarding, Call Waiting, Call- high speed Internet services will Wireless mobile customers. er ID, 3 Way Calling, Call Transfer, also become available later this The new equipment will be in- Do-Not Disturb and access to Voice summer. stalled at both the McCarthy town Mail services, not to mention longer Please stop by the office or visit site and the Sourdough Ridge site, battery life, access to text messag- our website www.cvtc.org to check providing service to all existing Mc- ing, high-speed data and internet out our great selection of phones Carthy area customers. services, and a larger free calling and PDA's, as well as our new state- Fixed wireless customers will area which will include not only Mc- wide and nationwide rate plans. enjoy more reliable high quality Carthy, but all of the State of Alas- ka. McCarthy musher fulfills dream

ridiculous/dangerous/not fun, etc.), down, and then the rest of them put cCarthy: —Jeremy and the final 300-plus miles were my their heads down and marched the MKeller, local contractor, challenge as the fog came over the rest of the way. It was the hardest run McCarthy resident and team. They began to break down phys- for me, and it was the most impres- “for- fun” musher, real- ically and mentally. The trust between sive.” Needless to say, Sugar won the ized his dream when he crossed the us began to weaken as they wondered Most Valuable Dog award. “I would finish line at Nome at 6:56 a.m. on if this was ever going to end.” not have made it to Nome without her,” said a pleased and grateful Jere- Tuesday, March 20th —the end of the It did end for six of Jeremy’s team 2007 Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race. as they were dropped with sore shoul- my. In fact, Jeremy was proud of all Allie, Jeremy’s wife and grandest sup- ders at checkpoints along the way. his dogs. porter, was on hand to give him the Three of those dogs were lead dogs. On March 26th, Jeremy, Allie, 2- best welcome of all, a big warm hug. In an interview with The Boston year old son Bjorn and their “family” His supporters back home —Team Globe Jeremy described the run from of dogs returned to their McCarthy McCarthy —were with him in spirit. Shaktoolik to Koyuk: “I was having home —the “comfortable world of Since the 1,122-mile race began trouble filling the lead spot. It was man,” as Jeremy put it. He is promis- ing to put together a synopsis of the on March 4th, Jeremy and Allie’s starting to come unraveled, and, not friends and neighbors were glued to having the experience, I didn’t really more interesting legs of the journey their radios, the Iditarod’s website know where the edge was... we had a so that we may fill in some of the and word of mouth for any news of 40-mph headwind for eight hours. We blanks and tell the more dramatic “their” musher and his team of 13 got into patches of glare ice where stories of the race. Alaskan huskies. the dogs just had no traction at all.” “Iditarod 2007 was a much larger Of the 27 rookies in this year’s Eight year old, Sugar, the remain- experience than I could have imag- race, Jeremy was one of 20 to make it ing lead dog kept the team from fal- ined before we began. I am truly hum- to Nome. He was one of 82 mushers tering but she certainly had her work bled by how much so many of you to start the race with 58 finishing. cut out for her. “She dragged us enjoyed and lived it as the extended Jeremy was number 54. across for that entire run. There was Team. Allie, Bjorn, the dogs and I ap- preciate all your prayers,” writes a In Jeremy’s own words: “I can tell one point I thought they were going thankful Jeremy. you that the first 700 miles were 90% to turn around and head back to super fun (with the exception of the Shaktoolik, and there was nothing I Congratulations, Jeremy, and run from Don’s Cabin to could do about it... But after that 15 dogs! Welcome home! Iditarod...which was utterly minutes, Sugar just put her head WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 11 McCarthy Kennicott Historical Museum news Spring cleaning (Sept.). We can offer bush-style ac- The Museum is a much warmer Please mark your calendar and commodations (a small furnished dry and brighter place now. After finish- plan to turn out for the Museum's cabin) and a small expense stipend. ing the monumental task of cleaning spring work party: FRIDAY MAY 4, Volunteers are expected to be on site up this mess, John made repairs, in- beginning after mail, and continuing at the Museum from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. stalled paneling, and painted the SATURDAY, MAY 5. This year we have four days a week, to meet the public walls, ceilings and floor. The building much more to do than usual, because as needed, and do many and varied hasn’t looked so good since the rail- we had to move everything into the maintenance and cataloging tasks. way left town! Thank you, John, for all reading room so that John Adams We would love to hear from interested your hard work. could work on the interior. Now we people!! If you or anyone you know The interior marks the comple- have to put it all back. Come when would be interested in being a volun- tion of our two-year grant for struc- you can, lend a hand for a couple of teer, please contact Neil Darish at tural repairs and improvements from hours or whatever you can spare. 554-4402. the Rasmuson Foundation for this Please bring work gloves if you have Museum remodel completed grant and the National Park Service them. Bring food if you can, others John Adams got a dirtier job than for the donation of construction ma- will if you can't. Questions? Meg Hunt, he bargained for when he agreed to terials. 907-554-4408 We look forward to see- help remodel the Museum’s interior Special thanks goes to Meg Hunt ing you! "Many hands make light this last fall. Venturing up into the for taking on the difficult and often work." attic to clean it before adding insula- thankless job of writing and adminis- Summer volunteers needed tion, he found the space covered with tering the grant. Your efforts and gen- As is the case each summer, the mounds of coal dust from the old days erosity have given the old CR&NW Museum is looking for one or two of the CR&NW railroad. The coal dust Depot a new lease on life. good volunteers to act as constantly drifting down through the Be sure and check out our new caretaker/curators between Memorial cracks in the ceiling is probably one look this summer! Day (end of May) and Labor Day of the main reasons that the building has always been so dim and dusty. Kennecott Flood Repair Plans an interim footbridge just above this currently. Residents and visitors should he NPS has been working crossing. It’s anticipated that this foot- expect to encounter construction on Tdiligently over the winter to bridge will be in use for the summer these trails throughout the summer, acquire necessary funding season. In order to repair the trestle, it especially in the beginning of the sea- for repairs needed in Kennecott result- will have to be dismantled. This could son that hiking will be more strenuous. ing from the flood in October. This begin in late July or earlier. Visitors Stephens Harper, the Kennecott flood caused damage to the trestle over and local residents should expect to Area Ranger, will be coordinating vol- National Creek, the structures border- encounter construction related to tres- unteers that have expressed interest in ing the Creek and to Root Glacier, Bo- tle repair both this summer and next. helping with repairs. nanza Mine and Jumbo Mine Trails. Vehicles will be limited to the low wa- The Assay Building was severely The Wrangell St. Elias NP&P has re- ter crossing until repairs are complete. damaged in this last flood event and a ceived some emergency funding from After a footbridge is in place final decision on how to address the the Alaska Regional Office to begin to across National Creek, the NPS will building has not been made. repair the trail system and we have a address repairs to the Root Glacier Alternatives that are being evaluat- commitment from Federal Highway Trail. The main problem with the trail ed include relocating what remains of Administration that we will receive is the stream crossings, particularly at the structure, as well as, building a rep- funding to repair the trestle. Addition- Jumbo Creek. The NPS plans to install lica of the structure. We will keep you ally, other flood repair funding for this a temporary crossing as possible after informed of this planning effort as it park was included in a Congressional snow melt. It’s probable that a tempo- progresses. request for assistance for all the parks rary crossing at Jumbo will be in place We will do our best to keep you affected by related storm events such for a good part of the summer while a informed of upcoming repairs as we as Olympic and Mount Rainer. We are more permanent solution is designed. continue planning and gathering more still awaiting word on the status of this After the Root Glacier trail is passable, information. We appreciate everyone’s request. the Trail Crew will move on to the Bo- interest and support and hope that nanza Mine Trail and the Jumbo Mine Before winter set in, the Park was you’ll contact us if you want to volun- Trail. This initial effort on these trails able to work with a local contractor teer or if you have any questions or will be to ensure pedestrian passage and re-established the low water cross- concerns. It will definitely be a busy and then vehicular traffic. If it’s possi- ing just above the trestle. As soon as summer trying to catch up and move ble these repairs will be addressed con- possible this spring the NPS will place ahead at the same time. PAGE 12 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 Loy Millard Green November 7, 1928 – April 7, 2007 oy Green, age 78, died began spending winters in Anchor- Loy and his brother Curtis lived LSaturday, April 7, 2007 at age with Bernd and Christy Hoff- many winters and some summers at Elmendorf Hospital in mann. During this period he was a remote cabin in upper McCarthy Anchorage of heart failure. adopted as surrogate grandfather by Creek. After floods destroyed the A celebration of Loy’s life will take their son Andre’. In April 2000 he road up the creek in 1980, Loy es- place this summer in McCarthy, moved to the Anchorage Pioneer tablished an elaborate system of Alaska. His ashes will be spread in Home, where he resided until his pulley-operated ferries and stashed the McCarthy Creek valley. death. several trail bikes along the route to Loy was born November 7, 1928 Loy enjoyed painting, playing get to his cabin. Later floods fur- in Monte Vista, Colorado to Grover trumpet, reading (particularly phi- ther limited access to air travel in and Mildred Green. Loy spent his losophy), meditation and cooking. the summer and snowmachines in childhood in Colorado. In his teens, He also enjoyed philosophizing, and the winter. Loy built a small “Avid he moved to California where he never seemed to be in a hurry. He Flyer” airplane to fly from McCarthy worked in various sales jobs. He was an expert at keeping old vehi- to his cabin, although after two en- enlisted in the US Army from 1950 cles and equipment running. In the gine failures he abandoned this ef- to 1953, serving in Korea and Ger- 1970s he masterminded the rebuild- fort. Remnants of his plane sit many. He was honorably discharged ing of the severely-deteriorated outside his art gallery near the Old as a corporal after earning a Korean foundation of the Old Hardware Hardware Store in McCarthy. service medal with 2 bronze service Store in McCarthy, and was proud Loy is survived by his sister Mar- stars. to have squared-up the building tha Berg of Ashland, Oregon. He Loy and his brother Curtis without breaking a single window. leaves behind many friends in McCa- moved to Alaska in 1963, first living Today the building is the home of rthy, Anchorage and the lower 48, in Valdez, then in Chitina. He often the Wrangell Mountains Center, an including the Hoffmann family; Sally told the story of how the logs in institution dedicated to environ- Gibert and Dick Mylius; Ben Shaine their Chitina cabin acted like an mental education and the arts. Loy and Marci Thurston; and his devoted accordion during the 1964 earth- was also a founder and for several caregivers in the Pioneer Home. He quake. He later moved to McCa- years the live-in curator of the Mc- was preceded in death by his broth- rthy, where he worked occasionally Carthy-Kennicott Historical Muse- er Curtis Green and sister Ruth as a Kennecott caretaker and as a um. He lived a very frugal lifestyle, Hawkins. cook for mining exploration compa- making his living working on small Memorial donations may be nies in the area, including a sum- local construction projects in McCa- made to the McCarthy-Kennicott mer spent underground in the old rthy by selling his oil paintings. Historical Museum, PO Box MXY, Kennecott mines. Loy lived in ei- Much of Loy’s artwork remains Glennallen, AK 99588-8998. ther Chitina or in the McCarthy ar- in a small art gallery in McCarthy. ea until September 1998 when he Eccentric Pioneer

Editor’s Note: Molly Mylius is a senior at East Anchorage High School. She wrote this essay last fall for her school literature class. “It was supposed to be a caricature piece and we needed to choose someone to describe,” said Molly. “I have known Loy since I was young and always found him to be a fascinating person and McCarthy has always been a special place to me, so I choose him as my subject.”

lived and breathed practicality. He she wanted this "new" trinket. is shirt was an eternal never replaced items that were still "Don't you need a watch yourself?" Hsnap-button plaid, worn usable; he also kept items that were "Oh, well... I don't really have and matted like a time- not usable at all. Once, he gave any use for it; time doesn't matter worn teddy bear but still quite wear- away a large old watch to a girl much around here 'n McCarthy," he able. His perpetually dirty trousers named Molly. said, shrugging. "Some of the but- were held up by a worn leather belt "Why do you want to get rid of tons don't work, but it's a sturdy that interrupted the faded red and it?" she asked uncertainly, not sure thing. Take care of it," he said, blue stripes of his flannel shirt. Loy WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 13 flashing her one of his gleaming place. Loy offered to head the reno- ed a moose for Molly once, a strong grins full of neglected teeth. vation effort if she let him stay in brown bull with a whimsical yellow- Molly looked down at her own one of the upstairs rooms. He was and-pink star-burst background. fluorescent Mickey Mouse watch, already staying in the Hardware Loy also loved playing the trumpet. the one she had had for just about Store as a sort of unobtrusive squat- Every Fourth of July he played in forever, and replaced the unit with ter, and he wanted to make certain the town parade. An idle stroller this big, clunky digital version. Lat- that he was a part of the fixing-up could sometimes hear him practice er, on the playground, her peers process. She agreed, and that deci- through the thin walls of his little sneered at the size of her new wrist sion in 1976 was a very good one— cabin, bellowing out various tunes adornment. Then she showed them his practical knowledge sparked a for as long as his diaphragm could all the high-tech features and they work effort with dozens of people hold out the notes. ambled away, frustrated that their that, in a few summers, resulted in a Loy was a true pioneer. He ven- teasing had no affect on her mood. rejuvenated building that still tured to Alaska from Colorado in She did not take the watch off until stands today. Sally claims that buy- the early 1960s, and the wilderness all of the functions stopped work- ing the Hardware Store was the became his home. He was the mu- ing, and even then she left the most foolish, naive, and best deci- seum curator, the town mechanic, watch on for a day or two more, sion she ever made, and if Loy had the town foundation expert, and the hoping that maybe the batteries not helped she does not know what town grandpa. Loy learned how to were just "resting." would have happened. fly a small plane at 14. Later he A worn charcoal fedora always When the Hardware Store was purchased an airplane kit and as- covered Loy's head, the felt so ex- sold in 1989, Loy moved into a run- sembled one himself, one of his few hausted that the material was quite down, boarded up house nearby. He valuable possessions. He flew his thin, not unlike the wispy gray adopted this lopsided shelter as his little Avid Flyer around McCarthy, strands that resided underneath. own, turning one side into his home even though he never bothered reg- One always experienced a slight and the other into an art gallery. istering for a pilot's license. shock upon seeing the hat removed Similar to his arrangement with Sal- As one of the oldest residents in for the first time because the stray ly, Loy contacted the owners and town, Loy had many stories. Some hairs poking out from under the they agreed Loy could stay if he were perhaps stretched, but the brim gave the illusion of much more kept the cabin in decent condition. amazing true stories always rivaled hair. His balding speckled skin That was fine with Loy. He needed a the exaggerated tales. He no longer hinted at a long life under the sun house, here was an empty one, and lives in McCarthy, but his presence in his younger days. what did property ownership matter still lingers whenever there is a sto- He loved fixing things, and most if no one stayed at the house any- rytelling session, accompanied by a people admired how he could work way? To the town of McCarthy, the sadness that Loy himself is not pres- wonders with even the simplest asymmetrical house on the corner ent to tell the adventure. tools. Duct tape and bailing wire, in will always be "Loy's Place"! Loy suffers from stroke-related his mind, could heal just about any- Loy was eccentric. He loved oil dementia and can no longer live the thing. "Junk" surrounded his life. painting, always trying new tech- independent life of which he was Loy never knew when an old bed niques with colors and layering. "I once so capable. His mind wanders frame or an empty fuel can would like to mix the landscape with and his stories and accomplish- come in handy to build a sled or scenes from my imagination," he ments are gradually slipping away, repair a roof. said. Most of the locals have at along with a part of history. His Years before Molly was born, her least one piece of his unique art- house still sits in all its muddled mother, Sally, met Loy right before work. Sometimes he would produce brilliance, next to what is left of his she moved to McCarthy. In her ear- a particularly nice painting and peo- plane, which has since been ly twenties, Sally was interested in ple would encourage him to paint stripped of its value to cover living buying the large, decrepit Hardware that scene again, but he would re- expenses. The abandoned house Store building built in 1913 during fuse; Loy thought that repetition still waits attentively, reeking of rot- the mining days, but she had no was terribly boring; he did it for ting wood and bygone memories. idea how to go about fixing up the pleasure instead of show. He paint- PAGE 14 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 The World Around Us

bate on the possibilities of life being Even this circumstellar habit- ince the last article, I common throughout the universe. able zone is highly dependent on Shope you had an opportu- However, as the new science of as- another factor, it must be around nity to do some research trobiology (study of life in outer the proper type and size star. Our on the incomprehensible size of our space) develops, a very different sun is called a spectral type G2 known universe, and consider the view of our planet and our place in dwarf main sequence star, an ideal majesty of its creator. the cosmos is being unveiled. type and size for life on earth. This Our small planet, amidst the The search for other habitable particular type of star produces an expanse of the universe can lead planets has led to increased re- abundant supply of the narrow spec- some to conclude that our planet search of our own planet, and the trum of light that just happens to earth is an insignificant speck, or as conditions and location that allow be the type able to penetrate the late astronomer Carl Sagan put it, life to survive, especially "complex earth’s atmosphere and be useful to “...a pale blue dot....our planet is a life" such as animals (if you caught living organisms. In fact, this nar- lonely speck in the great enveloping my first article you will remember row band is less than a trillionth of cosmic dark.” This idea of the insig- that there is no such thing as "non- a trillionth of the total of naturally nificance of the earth was an out- complex life"). The list of conditions produced electromagnetic emis- growth of the discoveries of considered essential, all at one time sions. The star must also be of the Nicholas Copernicus in 1543. Co- and place, continues to grow, but right mass. Too small, like 90% of pernicus was the first astronomer to we'll look at the list so far. the stars in our galaxy, and the hab- discover the correct relationship of The most universally accepted itable zone ends up so close to the the sun and its planets in orbit requirement for complex life is liq- star that the increased gravitational around it. The common theory, pre- uid water. Although often taken for force would synchronize its rotation vious to his discovery, was the geo- granted by us earthlings, it is the and orbit. This results in the same centric view that the earth was basis for carbon based life. Water is side of the planet always facing to- stationary, with the sun, moon, and essential for dissolving and trans- wards the star, exposing the star planets orbiting the earth itself. porting chemical nutrients vital for side to increased radiation from so- lar flares and freezing perpetually With the technological advance- the life processes of living creatures. the opposite side. Too large and ments in telescopes and the launch- It also is critical in regulating the they radiate too much ultraviolet ing of the Hubble space telescope, earth’s surface temperature with its light. Wow, ours is just right. the huge expanse of the universe unparalleled ability to absorb heat was seen in more intricate detail from the sun. A whole book could The shielding of our planet from than ever before. With this new in- be written on the life-giving proper- comet impacts, by the giant gas sight into the size of our known uni- ties of water, but as we shall see, planets such Jupiter, is also critical verse, came a reinterpretation of water on its own is not near enough. to sustain life for any period of the Copernicus discovery called the Another factor, intimately relat- time. "Copernicus Principle." This is the ed to liquid water, is that the planet Our moon, large for a planet idea that the earth occupies no pre- has to be within a certain distance our size, being 1/4th the size of the ferred place in the universe. from its home star, in a zone called earth, is essential also. The moon’s This thinking seemingly leads to the “circumstellar habitable zone.” gravitational pull stabilizes the the conclusion of a lack of purpose This zone is defined by the zone or earth’s axis at 23 degrees and helps or design, an idea not shared by the distance from its star where the to circulate the ocean waters due to man the principle was named after. temperature parameters allow liq- tidal currents. This ensures relative- Copernicus himself said his search uid water to be present. Too close ly temperate seasonal changes and was for "the mechanism of the uni- and a runaway greenhouse effect is mild climates. verse wrought for us by a supremely caused by the intense solar heating A habitable planet also needs a good and orderly creator.....the sys- not allowing water to condense, nearly circular orbit in conjunction tem the best and most orderly artist eventually ending up like Venus with a moderate rate of rotation so of all framed for our sake." with surface temperatures 900 de- that seasonal and daily tempera- The Copernicus Principle cou- grees F. Too far and CO2 clouds tures remain moderated. pled with the belief that life evolved form and the fate is that of the fro- An inhabited planet needs to from non-living chemicals on our zen surface of Mars. have a surface, referred to as a ter- planet, has given rise to intense de- restrial planet, with a surface crust WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 15 thin enough to allow for plate tec- there seems to be a sweet spot great cosmic lottery or suggests di- tonics. This helps temperature regu- called the "Galactic habitable zone," vine conspiracy. And, if you're of the lation of the interior, recycles where a planet/star would need to lottery thinking, factor in the carbon, mixes chemical elements, be positioned to be able to support chances of all the constants and and produces and shapes landforms. life. Too close to the center and their exact coordinated tuning and Our planet has an essential pro- dangerous black holes, supernovas, the impossibility of life from non-life tective magnetic field produced by and intense radiation would sterilize on such a planet, if it did win the its liquid iron core. Without this the planet. Too far and the lack of lottery. Most astrobiologists expect type core and resultant protective heavy elements would prevent ter- this list of essentials for life to grow magnetic shield of the proper restrial planet formation. as we research and understand our strength, the solar wind would strip These above parameters not own planet better. our atmosphere, leaving it like only have to exist individually but As I consider all these things Mars. also in conjunction with all the oth- that have to be—all at once—to al- An atmosphere like our own ers at the same time. low me to be here, I am struck with appears to be the perfect combina- Another consideration is that awe at God’s majesty and power. tion for life to exist. The 78% nitro- without all the basic fundamental Isaiah 45:18 For thus says the gen, 21% oxygen, 1% carbon mix is constants, laws and forces such as LORD, Who created the heavens, just right for protection from solar atomic mass, electromagnetic force, Who is God, Who formed the earth radiation, providing a temperate speed of light, gravitational force, and made it, Who has established it, climate, and sustaining liquid water. strong nuclear force, cosmological Who did not create it in vain, Who It also allows the, above mentioned, constant, mass of universe, proton formed it to be inhabited: I am the minuscule spectrum of light and electron mass, all of which are LORD, and there is no other. through that is useful for life pro- finely calibrated within tight param- cesses, while protecting us from eters, not only would life not exist, References: Brownlee, Donald & most of the harmful spectrum. but even the universe itself. Ward, Peter D.;2004, Rare Earth; The right ratio of landmass and An estimate of the probability, Copernicus Books water must be present to maintain of only the known habitable necessi- Moore, Patrick; 2002, Astrono- an active biosphere. ties, coming about by chance to- my Encyclopedia; Oxford University Another important aspect to gether all at the same time using Press consider is our position in the gal- very conservative values, came up Richards, Jay & Gonzales, axy and the universe itself. Most of with the number Guillermo; 2004, The Priviledged the universe is believed to contain 1/1,000,000,000,000,000. A num- Planet, Regnery Pub. insufficient amounts of heavy ele- ber, even when considering the stag- ments needed to form terrestrial gering number of known stars, planets. Even in our home galaxy makes us the winner of either the Glacier Bay ORV Plan Open for Comment

in national parks and preserves, the goes forward, would require special draft environmental 1980 Alaska Lands Act authorized use regulations to implement. Aassessment for the Dry of vehicles in support of commercial The environmental assessment Bay Off-Road Vehicle fishing. Over the years, the ORV trail proposes three alternatives, including Use Management Plan network has expanded to about 83.5 a no-action option. The alternative has been released for public comment miles of trail and has resulted in du- preferred by the NPS would authorize by Glacier Bay National Park and Pre- plicate trails and an increase in dam- 58.7 miles of trails and routes, and serve. The park is accepting public age to park resources. close 24.8 miles. This option would comment through May 18, 2007. The National Park Service is pro- allow about 34 acres to revegetate. The Dry Bay area of the preserve posing to authorize ORV use on sever- Copies of the document and op- is at the outlet of the Alsek River, al specific, designated trails and portunities to comment are available southeast of Yakutat. It is accessible routes in support of commercial fish- on-line at the following address: only by boats and aircraft, and off- ing and other activities, and to close http://www.nps.gov/glba/parkmgmt/ road vehicles are the main mode of some trails and routes that either du- planning.htm. Copies of the docu- transportation for commercial fisher- plicate access or are causing extensive ment may also be requested by mail men, lodge owners and their guests. resource damage. The proposal, if it from the park, P.O. Box 140, Gusta- While ORV use is generally prohibited vus, AK 99826-0140. PAGE 16 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 THE CHITINA LEADER May 1915 June

OF INTEREST TO ALASKANS ground. It required several years of that Representative Tansey took a trip This afternoon there is copper ore hard work to open up this section and to California but that he expects to lying on the wharf at Cordova to the put in the necessary machinery but he return the latter part of this month value of over half a million dollars. has been getting substantial results for and resume his duties at Kennecott. Twenty five cars had been brought a couple of years past. It is expected Archie Cloninger came down from from Kennecott on Sunday and this that the present season, if water condi- Chitina yesterday and has taken a posi- afternoon 14 more cars were received. tions are favorable, will permit of a tion at the Mecca. With the exception of one car from the quarter million dollars being cleaned The Hazelet trail from McCarthy Mother Lode Copper Mines Company up. to the Chisana, which was built during the ore is from the Bonanza and Jum- McCarthy, April 26, 1915 — the winter of 1913 cost considerable bo mines. It runs about 67 per cent McCarthy is again showing signs of more money than was subscribed for copper, making 1,360 pounds of cop- considerable building activity. Fred that purpose. As a consequence there per in the 2,000 pounds to the ton. Cope has commenced the erection of has been a deficit of over $2,100 which The 39 cars average 50 tons to the car, a two-story addition to his hotel. A has not been adjusted. An effort is now or a total of 1,950 tons. As each ton large refrigerator will be built into it being made to liquidate this indebted- has a value of $270, at 19 3/4 cents which will enable him to supply his ness. Vice President Baxter of the Alas- per pound, the total value of the entire restaurant and the community with ka Steamship Company months ago shipment is $526,500. As the insur- good meats during the summer agreed to contribute $1,000, if the ance on the copper ore only allows ore months. balance were taken care of. Now an shipped on any vessel to reach the W. W. Harvey & Co. are erecting a effort is to be made to raise the bal- value of $250,000, it is not permissible store building on Front Street which ance necessary to wipe out the obliga- for any steamer to carry more than they have already leased to Mrs. Marie tion. A large part of it was secured on 1,000 tons. When the steamer Alame- Hendrickson. money borrowed from the bank, on a da reaches Cordova tonight from the A. E. Todd lately received a large note signed by various businessmen. westward she will take aboard nearly shipment of men’s furnishing includ- The trail was only used the first winter 1,000 tons of the ore now here and ing Filson’s waterproof clothing, Dry but there is a feeling that the obliga- convey it to the Tacoma smelter. Sox and Olympic shoes, U. S. White tion ought to be wiped out. OF GENERAL INFORMATION boots and pacs. His motto is “Good Rex Creek, May 6 —For nearly a Cordova, April 30 —The coming of Goods” and his stock shows that. He week we have had a touch of winter George Max Esterley to this northland says McCarthy is in the coming Butte again, with snow nearly every day. But every season is like the blooming of the City of Alaska and he intends to stay it is warm again and likely to continue flowers in the springtime. Both are as with it. on. certain and as welcome. Since last fall Messrs. Ed. Lindig and Sam Rog- C. S. F. Cole, the Shushanna mail he has spent considerable time with his ers, proprietors of the Hotel Golden, carrier, has landed the Nizina mail family at Seattle, when not otherwise gave a very pleasant party at their hotel contract. entertaining his scores of northern last Saturday evening. Dancing was Art Powell, it is understood, has friends who have been in the Queen City indulged in until midnight and it was lined up some pay on Fly Gulch. during the past few months. He finally the unanimous expression of all who The Andrus camp will this year set sail from Seattle on the 24th, on the attended that they had a most enjoy- steamer Alameda, accompanied by Mrs. have luxuries for the men, that will able evening. Everyone is pleased to include spring beds and mattresses. Esterley. They arrived at Cordova last see this popular hotel again open to night and the big mining operator ex- On White Creek —One of the op- the public. pects to leave on the train tomorrow erators recently completed a smoke morning for McCarthy. From there he MAY 4 house on the creek and will prepare will cross over Sourdough hill, the OF GENERAL INFORMATION rabbits for the heat of summer. If suc- Nizina river and hit the trail for his large Cordova, May 12 —Thos. P. Hol- cessful, it may be the fore runner of and comfortable camp on Chittitu land of Chitina, a member of the re- larger packing houses, as rabbits are creek, where he expects to find every- cent Territorial Legislature, was a quite plentiful in most of the districts. thing in readiness for a big season’s passenger from Juneau on the steamer The Toubie boys have their work. Mr. Esterley has a big hydraulic Mariposa and will take the train for his summer’s wood cut and dead work plant there and is working in some rich home tomorrow morning. He states done, as much as the ice will permit. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 17 Mr. Bodies of the Kiser bench visit- park and there are some ball players needs and will have a paper in the ed McCarthy recently on business. headed for Chitina. John is already Leader that will do all in its power to MAY 18 laughing to himself at the way he is advance the best interests of one of the OF GENERAL INFORMATION going to clean up the country around richest mineral belts in the world. for about 60 miles north and, say 131 The reports that there is danger in As soon as business conditions miles south. He was somewhat disap- the vicinity of Strelna from forest fires warrant it is our intention to improve pointed last year because a certain are not warranted. Eight or ten miles the Leader and make it in every way a town on the coast was scared to cross back of Strelna and near the Kotsina newspaper that will be a credit to the bats with him. He hopes their courage river, fires have been raging for some Copper River Valley. has improved some this year. days past, but other than dense clouds HARRY G. STEEL of smoke that at times have been waft- MAY 25 Joe Feaster, the United States ed from the north there has been no OF GENERAL INFORMATION Deputy Marshal, at Chitina, broke his annoyance in the immediate vicinity of Cordova, May 28. E. A. Hegg made collar bone by running his motor cycle Strelna. a trip to Anchorage and returned last into an obstruction on the baseball Paul B. Coe, who was formerly night. He found conditions lively at the field at Chitina. freight clerk on the steamer Alameda, white tented city and predicts consid- CHITINA ROUTE FASTEST WAY left on Thursday’s train for Kennecott. erable activity so soon as the perma- TO OUTSIDE nent town is located. He took a There he will act as secretary to Super- Again it has been demonstrated number of good views of the new rail- intendent Seagraves of the Kennecott that the Cordova, Chitina, Fairbanks road terminus. Mines Company, succeeding Mr. Erick- route to the interior of Alaska is the son, who in turn will take the place of JUNE 1 quickest way to travel. Mrs. Ringwald Larry Bitner, recently resigned as TO OUR PATRONS Blix, wife of the commissioner at Cop- storekeeper. With this issue the Chitina Leader per Center on the Fairbanks trail, left CHITINA OBSERVATIONS — will be temporarily suspended. Busi- her home last night in an auto, and left Alaska Road Building ness reasons make it necessary that on this morning’s train from Chitina, While Chitina will not have a gov- the editor spend a couple of months in reaching Cordova this afternoon. She ernment railroad at present —of the states, and as he has not succeeded will be a passenger on the Mariposa course she will sometime —there are in securing a satisfactory man to run tonight for Seattle, and will therefore signs of a greatly improved auto road his newspaper interests in the Copper reach Seattle in a trifle over five days to Fairbanks. The work of preceding River region he has decided to lock up from the time she left Copper Center. years makes the work of each succeed- for the present. In view of the quiet Mrs. Blix is going to visit relatives in ing year much more efficient. Through summer times, this can be done at a Montana and Idaho, and will be joined ditching and the removal of the tundra financial profit. With the coming of later by her husband. the ground is dry and the frost out of renewed business activity in the early EPIDEMIC AMONG NATIVES AT it earlier each year. fall this paper will expect to again TONSINA The Alaska Road Commission has greet its patrons. Dr. W. H. Chase, has been notified just completed a warehouse in Chitina June 22 that a throat disease has become epi- 100'x45' for the storage of equipment LEADER IN THE FIELD TO STAY demic among the natives at lower Ton- and supplies. This, with their barn and The Chitina Leader will continue sina, about 30 miles from Chitina. other buildings, gives them a very well to be published regularly as the writer From what slight information the doc- finished plant for the business of road takes a pardonable pride in the fact tor has received he believes the trouble building. that he founded Chitina’s first and only to be diphtheria. Dr. Chase has wired There is at present a crew of about newspaper, and does not propose that to Mr. Miller, a government teacher at 30 men working at Tonsina where they the people of the Copper River valley Copper Center, to visit the scene of are extending the bridge across the shall be compelled to miss a single the trouble and expects to hear from river. When completed it will be about issue. him today and unless he wires that it is unnecessary, the doctor will leave on 1,000 feet in length. They have begun From the best information obtain- the train tomorrow for Tonsina. He has the work of putting a surface of gravel able the outlook for this section is been attempting to secure diphtheria on the road which it is intended will most encouraging. The financial inter- anti-toxin from the various settlements eventually extend over the entire ests in New York, which own and oper- around the sound, and from Juneau length. ate the Copper River & Northwestern and has managed to receive a small Base Ball —The Ball Park at Chi- Railway and the famous producing cop- amount from Fort Liscum. One death tina looked like a grading camp last per mines at Kennecott, recently sold has occurred so far among the natives Sunday. Every able bodied man in town $10,000,000 worth of bonds, the mon- and four or five in another family are was there with a shovel or a team and ey to be used in operating their proper- already sick. under the able and enthusiastic direc- ties in Alaska, acquiring new copper tion of John M. S. Nelson, the manager mines and the possible extension of June 29 and promoter, they accomplished won- our local railroad. This should mean ders. That is getting to be some ball big development work and Chitina PAGE 18 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 Backyard glaciers on the wane in Alaska

On late winter nights in the warmth of spring finally began er and pinches off normal channels, Goldstream Valley north of Fair- shrinking it. The change of seasons forcing water to the surface. banks this past winter, a woman saved her woodpile from the ice. “It’s common on the North named Hilary went for walks on the Overflow ice, also known as au- Slope,” said Larry Rundquist of the snow-covered trail outside her feis (German for “on ice”) formed Alaska-Pacific River Forecast Center house. During a time of year when on many small creeks this winter, in Anchorage. “Springs that flow up silence dominates, she heard some- according to National Weather Ser- there can cause sheets of aufeis that thing strange. vice hydrologist Ed Plumb. He visit- are tens of feet thick.” Water was percolating up ed Hilary recently to see her glacier On a larger scale, river and lake through the ice of nearby Gold- and interpret the scene. He said the ice in Alaska is breaking up gently stream Creek, and flowing in fan- recent winter was a prime season so far this year. Because of Alaska’s like channels over the ice. Not long for creating aufeis in the Interior. warm spring, the recent trend of after it hit the surface, the water “We didn’t get much snow this easy river breakups looks like it may froze. Ice accumulated over the days year and it was cold early,” he said. continue, Rundquist said. until it created a small glacier that “November was the fourth cold- “The Yukon has a pretty deep crept to within a few feet of a wood- est on record, we got about an inch snowpack in its headwaters in Cana- pile on Hilary’s porch. At about the of snow, and it really drove the frost da,” Rundquist said. “If it sends same time, water began seeping in- line down. We saw a lot of icing this snowmelt down before the ice rots to the first story of her house. year.” out, it could be a concern for the “I’m someone who appreciates Aufeis often shows up on Interi- upper river. But most of Alaska at nature, but there’s a certain line or roadways where roadcuts inter- this point is looking pretty good. If where what’s beautiful and awesome sect the water table. Groundwater the temperature stays above aver- becomes a threat,” Hilary said. seeps out and covers the road, freez- age, we could have a really easy Hilary and her landlord installed ing into small glaciers before crews breakup, but it’s still a little too a plastic pipeline to divert the water with graders can scrape it away. early to say for sure.” from her house. It flowed like a river Overflow ice occurs anywhere in For the most current forecast back to the frozen creek and even- Alaska, and is more prevalent in of the spring flood potential in Alas- tually slowed to a trickle. Her little colder temperatures and in years of ka, go to http://aprfc.arh.noaa.gov. glacier continued to grow until the low snowfall where ice freezes thick-

This column is provided as a public service by the Geophysical Institute, University of Alaska Fairbanks, in cooperation with the UAF research community. Ned Rozell is a science writer at the institute. Scholarship Opportunity for Young Alaskan Women

The essay contest is a joint effort network with political leaders from en. Bettye Davis (D – Anchor- between the NFWL and the National around the nation. Sage) is inviting all female Rifle Association. The contest asks col- Senator Davis encourages all female high school juniors and se- lege bound young women to write a high school juniors and seniors to enter niors to participate in a unique essay 400-600 word essay about a woman or a the essay contest. For more informa- contest that will award seven young group of women and their experiences tion, check out the National Foundation women from across the country a three and influence on the formation of the for Women Legislators webpage at thousand dollar academic scholarship United States of America during the http://www.womenlegislators.org/ or and a free trip to the National Founda- American Revolutionary Era of 1754- call Senator Davis’ office at (907) 465- tion for Women Legislators (NFWL) an- 1791. 3822. nual conference. The winners will travel to the annu- The application deadline is Tues- al NFWL conference with a female legis- day, June 19, 2007. lator to learn leadership skills and to CLASSIFIED WATER WELL??? Looking to put together a list of folks interested in having a well drilled next summer, in order to entice a driller to make the trip. Must have road access for a sizeable rig. Contact Todd Bureau @ 907- 782-3730 or [email protected] WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 19 Hale attempts to change plea to “not-guilty”

purposes, for the families, I plead no est date for a trial would be the begin- obert Hale, formerly known contest for all this. I think I understand ning of next year. Ras Papa Pilgrim, now wants with a clear mind that this is what’s Hale had been represented by to change his no-contest best for my family and me,” he said in Palmer public defender Lee de Grazia, plea on charges of rape, kidnapping 2006. who worked out the plea agreement and incest, and instead face trial. Just Under the plea agreement, prose- last December. His case has now been before the sentencing date of April 30, cutors say Hale would likely have got- turned over to the state’s Office of Pub- Hale said he has changed his mind and ten a 14-year prison sentence. lic Advocacy (OPA), whose mission wants to go to trial. statement reads, “To protect the rights “When I got this case, it was full Hale now asserts that medication of vulnerable Alaskans by providing ex- bore. We were not going to make any was responsible for clouding his mind cellent, cost-effective legal and guard- offers —- no offers — because the be- when he entered the no-contest pleas ian representation to abused and havior was egregious, horrible behavior. on the day after Christmas, 2006. neglected children, incapacitated And after about a year and a half, and I adults, and others.” OPA only repre- “I spent Christmas Day in the hos- give my wife most of the credit, my pital and they found some blood clots sents clients when the agency is ap- heart got a little soft because I don’t pointed by the court. in my knee. Doctors this morning gave want this girl to have to go in front of In addition to the alleged misbe- me months to live, so I’m not really cameras and tell what happened. What havior of the elder Hale, the family has concerned, but for my family,” Hale happened is awful and horrible,” said also been involved in a legal struggle said. assistant district attorney Richard with the National Park Service over ac- Apparently now that he is feeling Payne. cess to their property near McCarthy. better, his concern has shifted focus The court has set a date of Sep- Rulings by a district court and the 9th away from the well-being of the family tember 13 to consider Hale’s attempt and back onto himself. Circuit have not been favorable. Their to withdraw his plea. Payne said he attorney, Jim Burling, says the Pacific “I want to make it clear that I nev- plans to oppose the plea-change. If the Legal Foundation hopes to have the er in any kind of way ever sexually as- court grants Hale’s request, the earli- U.S. Supreme Court appeal done by saulted anyone but for all counts and May.

www.PropertyRightsResearch.org Valdez Realty “The Dirt Merchant” Julie Smithson, Researcher WALTER M. WOOD Cor. EGAN & HAZLET 213 Thorn Locust Lane BROKER P.O. BOX 868 (907)835-2408 VALDEZ, AK 99686 London, Ohio 43140-8844 Fax (907)835-5462 [email protected] [email protected] Recreational lots at Chokosna River Tracts—approx. 740-857-1239 (voice/no fax) Mi. 27 McCarthy Hwy. 1 ¼ acre and up—some / hwy frontage, some / Chokosna River frontage. Land for sale For Sale: Two parcels of land. 2-3 COPPER RIVER miles south-west of McCarthy. RECORD Swift Creek Bluffs Subdivision Add. #1. —Tract L, 10.02 acres $70,000. Community Newspaper —Tract T plus Lot 1, 11.39 acres $81,000. for the Copper Valley Subscribe * Advertise * Contribute! Terms available. P.O. Box 277 Glennallen, AK 99588 907-562-4924 or 554-4403. 907-822-3727 phone and fax [email protected] PAGE 20 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 Ahtna Museum to be constructed this summer

tember. The museum building will priority for Ahtna. Denver Service Cen- contract has been award- blend with the style of other buildings ter will manage the contract, with assis- “Aed for construction of the in the complex, such as the visitor cen- tance from a regional representative in Ahtna Museum this sum- ter and theater. The structure will in- Anchorage. Wrangell-St. Elias employ- mer at Wrangell-St. Elias National Park clude space for exhibits, presentations, ees Will Tipton and Wayne Challoner and Preserve Headquarters,” announced and curatorial storage. will serve as Project Inspectors. Superintendent Meg Jensen today. Ahtna Heritage Foundation and Visitors to Wrangell-St. Elias head- “Blazy Construction of Soldotna was Wrangell-St. Elias, partners in the proj- quarters complex this summer should chosen to build the 2,400 square foot ect, are presently finalizing an agree- expect the same high level of services as structure,” continued Jensen. ment for operation of the museum. in the past. However, construction Ground-breaking for the approxi- Availability of curatorial storage opens noise and congestion will be present mately one million dollar project is the doors to repatriation of historical throughout the summer. For further scheduled for May, with the building artifacts; bringing back home signifi- information, call Smitty Parratt at slated for completion by the end of Sep- cant archeological resources is a high (907) 822-7223. Collection Features Klondike Gold Rush, Skagway History

support of the Rasmuson Foundation is in the northern communities. The Arc- n extraordinary, one of a kind providing a fabulous opportunity to tic Brotherhood Hall is owned by the Acollection of artifacts encom- share with both visitors and Alaskans an City of Skagway, now operating as visi- passing the Klondike Gold important part of our nation’s history tor center for Skagway’s 900,000 visi- through authentic objects in their origi- tors each year. Rush and early 20th Century life in his- toric Skagway will be protected and nal location.” · Numerous objects representing made available for public viewing and Among the stunning number of Native Alaskan stories including Tlingit research through the collaboration of items in the collection are these: carvings and baskets and a unique the owner and four Alaska partner orga- · The 1897 parlor that belonged to “Native Packers for Hire” sign from the nizations. the famed Jefferson "Soapy” Smith. Af- gold rush. The collection also holds The George and Edna Rapuzzi Col- ter the gunfight which caused his death scores of photographs, hotel registers lection, which was started a century ago in 1898, the saloon became a restaurant and ship manifests that add depth, tex- by a Klondike Gold Rush stampeder, was and then the home of the Skagway Hook ture, and personality to the story al- purchased this week for $1 million by and Ladder Company. Martin Itjen ac- ready told by Skagway's historic the Rasmuson Foundation. The Founda- quired the building around 1935, re- architecture. tion will develop a plan to distribute the modeled it, and re-opened it as Jeff The collection will be managed by collection to the City of Skagway, the Smith’s Parlor Museum. This landmark the three Skagway partners, with a com- Alaska Natural History Association, and structure retains much of its 1898 ap- prehensive inventory being the group’s the National Park Service. pearance as Soapy Smith’s headquar- first priority. The plan is that the Na- The collection, which includes an ters. tional Park Service, which has orches- estimated 450,000 items and five histor- · The 1900 YMCA Gymnasium and trated the partners’ purchase from Ms. ic buildings, was started by Martin Itjen, Reading Room and Meyers Meat Market Brown, will preserve and display items a stampeder who later led Skagway’s complex, later used as an automotive related to the Gold Rush era. The City developing tourist trade. His longtime garage and still holding many automo- of Skagway is contributing $100,000 friend, George Rapuzzi, was a tourism tive artifacts from the 1930s. toward the purchase, and will add to its promoter and tour guide, as well as a · Martin Itjen’s famous “Skagway museum collection those items that tell consummate collector in his own right. Streetcar,” a home-converted 1906 other city stories, including those of Together their collections came to be Packard, used in early Skagway tours Native Alaskans, tourism, and its port. owned by Phyllis Brown, Rapuzzi’s niece, and still emblazoned with his marketing The Alaska Natural History Association who sold it this week. slogan “Nothing Like It In the World.” will restore the Collection’s World War II Commissary building and focus its “This is an amazing accumulation · The original silk banner of the Skagway operations there and partner of Alaska’s history,” said Klondike Gold Arctic Brotherhood, formed in 1899 by with the City in exhibiting Skagway’s Rush National Historical Park Superin- stampeders to provide mutual assis- WWII history. tendent Jim Corless. “The generous tance, friendship, and social interaction WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 21 New book releases

laska Northwest Books Nowhere: The Story behind the Arctic Hilarious, disturbing and packed Aannounces the release of Educational Miracle. The author, with surprises at every turn, The Kids the 30th edition of The George Guthridge, set out with his from Nowhere, is a powerful, poignant Alaska Almanac. This handy fact wife and two daughters to a small story that will make you want to cry and cheer at the same time. They had been book continues to be an invaluable village on the edge of remote bliz- labeled “uneducable.” They were the reference on Alaska answers to your zard-swept St. Lawrence Island in children of whale and walrus hunters. questions on all things Alaskan — the Bering Sea. It is one of the They had no computers and almost no history, geography, biology, park- harshest and most remote places in books. They spoke English as a second lands, population and more. Alaska. He was there to teach at a language. They had little world knowl- This affordable guide provides al- Siberian-Yupik school so troubled it edge. And their teacher was ill. Togeth- phabetically organized, enlightening was under threat of closure, but er, however, they achieved what others entries making it the premier reference George didn’t know that. Like many called impossible. book for travelers, students and anyone other teachers hired to work in The 328-page softbound book sells curious about the 49th state. Did you Alaskan villages, he had accepted for $16.95. The royalties the author re- know that Barrow, Alaska, has 0 hours the position thinking about adven- ceives from this book will go toward of daylight for 67 days, November 18 building a school in the earthquake-rav- ture and about the great pay. through January 24, and 84 days of day- aged area overseas. It will be dedicated light from May 10 to August 2. Another George tells the story of his own to the Kids from Nowhere. amazing fact: the Trans-Alaska oil pipe- transformation and that of his students George Guthridge is now Professor line is 800 miles long, 48 inches in di- when they are entered into one of the of English at the University of Alaska ameter and crosses 834 rivers and most difficult academic competitions in Fairbanks, Bristol Bay, in Dillingham, streams, three major mountain ranges the nation. Working with few resources Alaska, where he is currently creating a and an earthquake fault line. and with a group of students who are DVD and workbook series about his rev- Included is completely up-to-date bright but lack focus and training, olutionary approaches to teaching writ- information on cost of living, commer- George adapts, motivates and coaches. ing and grammar. He has been cial fish catches, sports records, accom- The students face emotional and aca- nationally honored four times as an edu- panied by new photographs, illustrations demic difficulties that stagger the imag- cator for his work with Alaska Native and sidebars. Plus, Anchorage celebrity, ination. In their quest to win, they youth. Using his methods, his rural-Alas- Mr. Whitekeys, once again shares his overcome fire, personal tragedy and ka students have graduated from such comical wisdom. prejudice. They must compete against places at MIT, Harvard, Dartmouth, teams from schools of the gifted on sub- The latest edition of The Alaska Al- West Point, Yale Law School, to name a jects that the Eskimo students have nev- few. manac is in softcover, contains 240 pag- er heard of before. They study while es with 50 black and white photos, 12 hauling water and hunting whales, even George is a former technical writer maps and costs $12.95. Be sure to go three days without sleep after being and science magazine editor-in-chief check your favorite bookstore or visit exhausted from the spring walrus hunt. and has published five novels and more Graphic Arts Center Publishing But they prevail; they become the only than seventy short stories and novel- Company’s web site at: www.gacpc.com. team of Native Americans in U. S. histo- ettes. Three times he has been a finalist nother recent release ry ever to win a national championship for the Hugo and Nebula Awards for sci- Afrom Alaska Northwest in academics. And they do so twice! ence fiction and fantasy. Books is The Kids from

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McCarthy McCarthy Bed & Breakfast Building Cozy, quiet cabins, all with private bathrooms & showers. Pull into our conveniently located homestead on the Services McCarthy Road, ½ mile from the Kennicott Owners John & Carmen River footbridge. 907-554-4433 Continental breakfast & fresh coffee Private baths Local bonded and insured busi- Gazebo kitchen ness specializing in frame cabin Picnic area building. · Tire repair Contact us for your building needs. [email protected] PO Box MXY Glennallen, AK 99588-8998 (907) 554-4433 PAGE 28 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 Cooking with Peggy We’re coming into the season in Fish Tacos appy Summer Everyone. Alaska when we’re thinking about 1 pound fresh or frozen skinless HI just realized the other fresh halibut and salmon. I would cod, orange roughy, or other fish day how little time there love to share a few of the recipes fillets (I’ll use halibut) is before we head north — 54 days from the Better Homes and Garden 2 tablespoons butter or margarine, to be exact. I can hardly wait to see for your fresh fish. Hope they don’t melted all our friends in McCarthy, our mind. ¼ teaspoon ground cumin granddaughter in Valdez and our Dijon Mustard Fillets 1/8 teaspoon garlic powder daughter and her husband in Hom- 1 pound fresh or frozen fish fillets, 3 tablespoons mayonnaise or salad er! ½ to 1" thick dressing First item on the agenda— ½ teaspoon lemon-pepper seasoning 1 teaspoon lime juice please look back to the last issue at ¼ cup dairy sour cream 1 ½ cups packaged shredded cab- the recipe for Pasta con Broccoli. I 1 tablespoon milk bage with carrot (coleslaw mix) tried it a couple of times and just 1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard or shredded cabbage for fun added ½ to 1 cup of Velveeta 2 teaspoons snipped fresh chives or 8 corn taco shells, warmed accord- to the mixture and it was great. Try chopped green onion tops ing to package directions it—you’ll like it. 2 to 3 teaspoons capers, drained 1 recipe Mango Salsa (optional) rec- Next, let me tell you about a (optional) ipe follows special cookbook I bought. A friend 1. Thaw fish, if frozen. Rinse 1. Thaw fish, if frozen. Rinse was visiting from out of town and we fish; pat dry with paper towels. Cut fish and pat dry with paper towels. went to a very special new shopping into 4 serving-size pieces, if neces- Cut fish crosswise into ¾” slices. plaza here in Tucson that neither of sary. Measure thickness of fish. Place fish in single layer in greased us had ever been to. She wanted to Place fish on the greased unheated shallow baking pan. Combine but- shop in one of the clothing stores, rack of a broiler pan. Turn any thin ter, cumin, and garlic powder. but knowing that I was heading to portions under to make uniform Brush over fish. Bake in a 450 de- the wonderful land where I can wear thickness. Sprinkle with lemon-pep- gree oven for 4 to 6 minutes or until jeans everyday, I just kind of per seasoning. fish flakes easily when tested with a browsed. Right there in Coldwater fork. Creek surrounded by lovely clothes I 2. Broil 4 inches from the heat 2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl found one book (books draw me to until fish flakes easily when tested stir together mayonnaise and lime them like bees to honey). It was the with a fork (allow 4 to 6 minutes juice. Add cabbage; toss to coat. Special Edition New Cook Book by per ½” thickness of fish). (If fillets Spoon some of the coleslaw mixture Better Homes and Gardens. It’s the are 1" thick, turn once halfway into each taco shell; add fish slices. one with the pink ribbon on the through broiling.) Top with Mango Salsa or your favor- front and the pink section of 32 3. Meanwhile, in a small sauce- ite topping. pages of stories and recipes from pan stir together sour cream, milk, those touched by breast cancer. mustard, and chives. Cook and stir Makes 4 servings When I found out it was only $20 over low heat until heated through For Mango Salsa: In a medium (the new paperback novels are $15) (do not boil). Spoon sauce over fish bowl combine 1 ½ cups chopped, and that 10% went to the Susan G. to serve. Sprinkle with capers, if peeled mangoes or peaches; 1 medi- Komen Breast Cancer Foundation, I desired. um red sweet pepper, seeded and bought it immediately. Of course I Makes 4 servings finely chopped; ¼ cup thinly sliced took a lot of kidding when the hus- Note: The book gives you some green onions; 1 jalapeno chile pep- bands met us coming out of a dress hints on selecting fish —one of the per, seeded and finely chopped (be shop and my friend had bags of things I love was that they should sure to wear plastic or rubber gloves clothes and I had a recipe book! have “clear, bright bulging eyes and wash hands with soap and water This book is filled with wonderful with black pupils.” Guess I never if they touch the pepper); 1 table- recipes, cooking hints, canning and thought about the color of their spoon olive oil; ½ teaspoon finely freezing ideas and much more; plus eyes! Shows you how much I don’t shredded lime peel; 1 tablespoon for me a great bonus — nutritional know. lime juice; 1 tablespoon vinegar; ¼ teaspoon salt; and ¼ teaspoon black information after every recipe. How about some pepper. Makes 2 cups WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 29 I can tell I’m running out of 1 15 ½ -ounce can salmon, drained, gurt, and flour. Add yogurt mixture space but first how about some broken into large chunks, and to saucepan. Cook and stir until Salmon-Sauced Mostaccioli skin and bone removed (I’m go- thickened and bubbly. Cook and stir ing to try the equivalent amount for 1 minute more. Gently stir in 8 ounces dried mostaccioli or riga- with chunks of fresh salmon.) salmon; heat through. Serve sauce toni (about 3 cups) 2 tablespoons snipped fresh parsley over hot pasta. Sprinkle with pars- 1 small green or red sweet pepper, ley. cut into bite-size strips 1. Cook pasta according to Makes 4 servings ½ cup chopped onion (1 medium) package directions. Drain; keep warm. 2 tablespoons butter or margarine I’m planning to use these reci- 1 ½ cups chicken broth 2. Meanwhile, for sauce, in a pes and other from the Pink Special 2 teaspoons snapped fresh dill or ½ medium saucepan cook sweet pep- Edition New Cook Book from Better teaspoon dried dill per and onion in hot butter until Homes and Gardens all summer while in McCarthy. ½ cup plain low-fat yogurt tender but not brown. Stir in 1 cup of the broth and the dill. Bring to 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour Enjoy! boiling; reduce heat. Stir together the remaining ½ cup broth, the yo-

Mar. 17, ‘06 and -5 on Mar. 21, ‘05). of 65.1 inches and a snow depth of ebruary and March were The average March temperature at 27 inches. The greatest snow fall Fwell below average in both McCarthy was 4.2 compared to 10.0 was 110.6 inches in ‘03-‘04 ( 99.9 temperature and precipi- in Mar. ‘06, 28.7 in Mar. ‘05 and inches in ‘90-‘91) and the lowest tation. 21.0 in Mar. ‘04. The high reached was 27.3 inches in ‘86-‘87. The The high temperature for Feb- 40 or higher on 2 days and the low greatest snow depth was 42 inches was -30 or below on 4 days. ‘03-‘04 (39 inches in ‘90-‘91) and ruary was 30 on the 3rd (44 on Feb. 10, ‘06 and 41 on Feb. 05, ‘05). The This will give you an idea of how the lowest was 16 inches in ‘86-‘87 lowest temperature recorded at Mc- cold it was. The average tempera- and ‘98-‘99. Carthy in February was -42 on the ture between February 21st and The first 15 days of April have 23rd (-26 on Feb. 25, ‘06 and -40 on March 20th was -7.2. The high was seen a gradual warming of tempera- Feb. 5, ‘05). The high was 20 or only 28 on March 20th and the low tures and only a trace of snow. The above on only 5 days and the low was -42 on February 23rd. The high high has been 56 and the low -4. was -30 or lower on 7 days. The aver- was 20 or higher on only 2 days. The The highs have been in the 40's and age February temperature was 1.7 low was -30 or below on 11 days and 50's, except for a 38 on the 3rd. By (11.6 in ‘05, 12.3 in ‘05 and 14.9 in -40 or below on 3 days. the 30th we should be seeing lows ‘04). This is still warm compared to March liquid precipitation was near 30 and highs close to 60. -5.9 in ‘99. 0.21 inches (trace in Mar. ‘06, 0.12 There is about 5 inches of snow left. The February precipitation was in Mar. ‘05 and 0.67 in Mar. ‘04) The snow should be gone by the end 0.05 inches of liquid (1.72 in ‘06 and snowfall was 3.7 inches (0.1 in of the month, but I’m afraid that and 1.17 in ‘05). Total snowfall was Mar. ‘06, 0.8 in Mar. ‘05 and 10.1 in there will be ice on the rivers and 2.5 inches (8.6 in ‘06 and 16.4 in Mar. ‘04). March started the month lakes until mid May. ‘05). McCarthy began February with with 18 inches of snow on the May should see a rapid increase 19 inches of snow on the ground ground, increased to 20 inches on in temperatures with highs in the and ended the month with 18 inch- the 13th and ended the month with 60's by mid month. Precipitation is es. 17 inches. usually on the light side with an av- March was a continuation of the The total snowfall for ‘06-‘07 erage amount of less than an inch. cold and dry February. was 43.7 inches, thru 4/15 (84.0 in June is usually the warmest The high temperature for ‘05-‘06, 79.4 in ‘04-‘05, 110.6 in month at McCarthy with an average ‘03-‘04, 44.5 in ‘02-‘03, and 67.1 in temperature in the mid 50's, highs March was 40 on the 21st and 22nd (48 on Mar.20, ‘06 and 51 on Mar. ‘01-‘02 ). The greatest snow depth in the 70's and about 2 inches of 11, ‘05). The low temperature for was 21 inches on January 26th. This rain. compares with an average (‘80-‘06) March was -40 on the 3rd (-31 on PAGE 30 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION

The “Coalition For Access To uate several alternatives—on the ere we go again! Once McCarthy” (CAM) has written the ground that one of the alternatives Hmore our major upgrade governor and our district legislative (the full, paved upgrade for the en- aspirations for improve- delegation requesting a logical ex- tire road) is now estimated to cost ment on the McCarthy Road have planation for this abrupt termina- “above $100 million”? We have been been derailed by the recent action tion of our upgrade. The repeatedly told by DOT&PF that the of the Alaska Department of Trans- Environmental Impact Study (EIS) road improvements would likely be portation &Public Facilities portion of the project began in accomplished in phases. Why not (DOT&PF). Gone is our State Trans- 2002 and was over two thirds com- finish the EIS and then consider portation Improvement Program pleted. CAM told the governor: implementing the upgrade in phas- (STIP) funding. This means, federal “That this decision was made es as originally planned?” allocations will not be available for with absolutely no prior public no- Proponents of a decent road to any work on our road in the future. tice, public meetings or public in- McCarthy have been at this for a All funding must now come exclu- put is very distressing. What was the long time. They began way back in sively from state tax or other reve- point of having everyone attend all 1941, when our Territorial Legisla- nues. Governor William A. Egan those meetings when DOT&PF was ture convinced the US Congress to must be rolling over in his grave. going to throw in the towel two- preserve, for highway purposes, a Why is this a problem? thirds of the way through the EIS? right-of-way along the abandoned Alaska’s General Fund is where The way the decision was handled railroad center line. After that, our much of Alaska’s state income reve- suggests to some in our area that brand new state and its first govern- nue is deposited, if that money is the termination of the four-year EIS mental body, in 1961, authorized going to be spent. The General process reflects, as much as any- work to commence upon a modern Fund is the funding source for the thing, a lack of interest in the proj- highway bridge across the Copper State Capital Budget and the State ect by DOT&PF’s Northern Region River at Chitina. Diamond drilling Operating Budget. Appropriations and a desire by the Northern Region the subsurface strata for the bridge for conducting the state’s business to build roads closer to Fairbanks. If took place that year. A happening are made each session by the Legis- that is indeed a motivating factor, it occurring simultaneous with the lature into those budgets. If reve- would be a very parochial view given beginning of the major upgrade on nues are not spent, they can be the importance of the McCarthy the connecting Edgerton Highway. placed into interest earning reserve Road upgrade to the tourism indus- This bridge was dedicated in 1971 accounts like the Alaska Permanent try statewide.” at the same time the final phase of Fund or the Constitutional Budget CAM also pointed out to the Edgerton upgrade was completed. Reserve Fund. governor that many concerned indi- In November 1973 a pioneer road was completed between Chitina and The beauty of having a project viduals, both within and outside of McCarthy. Since then, federal funds in the STIP means that the federal CAM, have questioned the method- have been used to restore the government matches state funds ological bizarreness of this action: Kuskalana Bridge and improve a since federal highway and airport “Why not finish the EIS with the thousand feet or so of sloughing trust funds are used to match state technical staff that is already famil- roadway at Long Lake. In addition, funds in the Capital Budget. The iar with the road and this EIS effort state funds were used last summer ratio is sometimes as great as 94% rather than having to reinvent the for safety improvements at Hug-a- federal and 6% state. It is no wonder wheel several years down the line? Boulder Bend. Over the years, the then that legislators prefer to allo- We have also been repeatedly told good efforts of the tiny highway cate funds into the Capital Budget that the EIS will address several al- maintenance crew at Chitina have only when they will be used to pro- ternatives from “no build” all the also contributed to measured im- cure federal matching funds. Histor- way up to a full developed and paved provements along the route. Gener- ically it has been pretty much a rare road. Why not finish the EIS and ally speaking though, since 1974, occurrence when the Legislature then consider the evaluated alterna- major improvements to the road goes along with funding capital con- tives in light of the then applicable have pretty much been stymied by struction type work with only state fiscal constraints? Isn’t that one of an endless series of “stop and start” funds. the purposes of the EIS? Why cancel the EIS—which is supposed to eval- assessments, scoping programs, public hearings, roundtables, meet- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007 PAGE 31 ings and comment periods. (I’m Murkowski was able to achieve the na almost washes out. Other similar leaving out a lot of stuff here, like last couple of years. comparisons can be found along the the three phases of the Alaska Land I suggest Northern Region’s as- route. Most of us look with pride at Managers Forum study, or the Sce- pirations here to be delusional. The the Kuskalana Bridge, which was a nic Corridor study and Plan, or the reason I feel this way is that I be- federally-funded reconstruction and EIS, if you are still with me here, lieve their argument totally relies won a national achievement of ex- you should be happy I am.) upon an unusual funding scenario. cellence award. At the Copper River Bridge Murkowski’s recent use of general A few years ago, the Attorney opening ceremony in September funds for state maintenance crew General’s office woke the DOT&PF 1971, Governor Egan used words capital projects hasn’t been viewed up to the fact that it didn’t have pretty much to the effect: “This and approved as practical by past much legal right-of-way on the Mc- Bridge will usher in an era of conve- legislatures very often in our state’s Carthy Road. In order to make any nient vehicle access to an area of history. It is unrealistic to believe significant improvements to the immense scenic beauty and recre- that any future legislature will re- road, additional right-of-way must ational opportunity.” Egan was tell- verse past policy by making this the be purchased. At hug-a-boulder ing Alaska then, that this road is norm. bend last year the DOT&PF got important for the whole state. To- Maybe even more important for their first taste of this. They day, many state visitor attractions us to consider here is an argument couldn’t afford to purchase the ad- are at or near capacity. Reasonable of the Associated General Contrac- ditional right- of-way necessary for a access to the largest national park tors of Alaska. Their contention is quality fix, therefore they downsized in the country is the logical next that major modifications on Alaska the project. Only through the STIP step to facilitate growth in Alaska’s roads, using small government labor is the State going to be able to af- visitor industry. forces, often results in doing the job ford to acquire more right-of-way. Where do we go from here? “on the cheap.” You must admit, Strict reliance on maintenance DOT&PF Northern Region represen- they do have a point; for example, crews to keep the road functional tatives suggest that future improve- compare the bridge across the Cop- may prove to be a big mistake. ments upon the road be made by per at Chitina with the Lakina Without a major upgrade of the salaried maintenance crews funded Bridge. The Chitina Bridge was ac- road Alaskans can probably forget through their annual operating bud- complished with federal funds under about using the Nation’s largest na- get. They can only promise strict engineering design standards tional park for economic enhance- “occasional grading and some cul- using professional labor. The Lakina ment and growth of Alaska’s visitor vert replacement.” However, if the Bridge used only state funds and a industry. CAM has asked the gover- administration is able to strong arm hodge podge of labor, put together nor to somehow get our road back the legislature into enhancing fund- in a hurry up fashion under the into the STIP where federal funds ing increments for the Chitina overview of managers with question- will once again be available. maintenance crew, then larger as- able, at best, engineering expertise. So, that is my viewpoint. What signments might be undertaken. Today, the Copper River bridge do you think? Perhaps something similar to the stands magnificent, while every oth- maintenance effort Governor er year, it seems, the too-short Laki- WSEN B&B

w Private cabins for 2 to 4. w Convenient access by automobile. w Historic homestead setting. w Quiet location away from the crowds! Your hosts, long-time residents Phone (907)554-4454 or Email [email protected] Rick & Bonnie Kenyon. See us on the WEB at http://mccarthy-kennicott.com/WSENBB.htm PAGE 32 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2007

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