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1st Floor, Ministry of Trade & Tourism, P.O. Box 3106, Accra, Ghana. Tels: (233) (21) 665441 or 665421 Telex: 2143 TORIST GH

2nd September, 1991

Dear Guest and Traveller,

Akwaaba - welcome! - is a term of greeting you will come to hear often during your stay. It is meant sincerely. Ghanaians are fun-loving, cheerful people who are proud of their country, its languages, traditions and standing and are keen that the visitor should understand and appreciate what their country has to offer.

Ghana is a free and independent society where much emphasis is placed on courtesy and politeness. A handshake is the key to everything. Women especially will notice they enjoy a fully emancipated status as free and equal partners in political, professional and economic life. ï * Here are just some of our country's features which we're sure will help to make you feel... "It's Great to be in Ghana!"

Sunshine in plenty Historic forts, castles 0 0 and monuments

rr> Beautiful, unspoilt rnr Fascinating wild life '—' sandy beaches and vegetation

Africa's friendliest [TX A rich and unique '—' '—' culture people

Akwaaba!

Sincerely Yours, The ï Photographs in this book are ® Ghana Tourist Board except where otherwise noted.

' Ghana Tourist Board 1991.

Produced on the Board's behalf by Cambridge Faxbooks Ltd., P.O. Box 209, Mamprobi, Accra, Ghana. Tel: Accra 229612

2 CONTENTS

Page 5 General Introduction

7 Greater Accra Region

17 Eastern Region

25 Central Region

35 Western Region

46 Ashanti Region

51 Brong Ahafo Region

57 Volta Region

61 Northern Region

62 Upper West Region

63 Upper East Region

Inside back cover Map of the Regions and Road Distances

3

INTRODUCTION

Ghana, situated on the west coast of Africa, was VISA once famous for gold, and European traders Ghana Missions and Embassies abroad will assist in therefore called the country "The Gold Coast". issuing individual as well as group visas. Before the Europeans came, trade in such commo¬ Health Requirements dities as gold, ivory, salt and kola nuts was carried Please do not forget to bring your Health Certificate, on with the Western Sudan, an area over which the which shows that you have been recently innocu- ancient Ghana Empire flourished from about 400 lated against cholera and that you have had a yellow AD to the latter part of the tenth century. Ghana fever vaccination. You are also advised to consult today is a modern industrial and agricultural African your doctor well in advance of your visit so that you country covering an area of 239,460 sq km with a may begin the usual malaria treatment. population of about 14 million. You will never feel like a stranger in Ghana. Once ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE FORMALITIES you are in the country, you feel at home. Visitors are always greeted heartily with a warm "akwaaba", On arrival your passport will be examined and which goes beyond a simple "welcome" to "come returned to you by the Immigration Officer. Exten¬ and join us". sions of stay may be granted by the Immigration Ghanaian warmth and hospitality will make your Department in Accra. stay, no matter how long its duration, a memorable and delightful experience. Reconfirming Airline Reservations When This publication "Ghana—a Travel Guide" is meant you are preparing to leave Ghana, please reconfirm your international flight reservations at to help you discover our diverse and ancient least 72 hours in advance. heritage, our time-honoured traditions, our rich and colourful festivals and the natural attractions of the International Flight Check-in Time country. This brochure gives you a glimpse into the Arrive at Kotoka International Airport in Accra at 10 Regions of Ghana and should spur you on to least 2Vè hours in advance of your flight's discover more for yourself, depending on your departure to ensure adequate time for check-in and interests and the time you have available. immigration formalities. Throughout your trips, we invite you to consult the Departure Fees Ghana Tourist Board for any help you may need. We Reserve 10 US dollars per person for the airport have offices in almost every Region with staff who departure fee, which all departing travellers must will be delighted to assist you. With the exception of pay. nominal charges for long-distance telephone calls, our services to individual travellers are free of EXPORTATION OF HANDICRAFTS charge. For our addresses and telephone numbers, If you should decide to purchase a significant please refer to page one of this brochure. quantity of any Ghanaian handicraft items, such as Climate wood carvings, artwork, trading beads etc., please Northern Ghana has a rainy season from about April go to the Museums and Monuments Board in Accra to October. The rest of the year is hot and dry, with to obtain an export permit. The Board also has temperatures up to about 38°C. In southern Ghana offices throughout the country to advise you. the rains last from April to June and again from CURRENCY September to October. Generally temperatures are Ghana's between 21°-32°C. currency is the Cedi ($) which comes in denominations of $50, $100, $200, $500. As of PUNNING A TRIP TO GHANA August, 1991, $1,000 bills will be available. Coins How to get there come in denominations of $10, $20, 5p,1 Op, 20p, Several international airlines, including Ghana Air¬ 50p (pesewas). ways, operate regular scheduled flights to Ghana There is no restriction on the amount of foreign from major cities around the world. Ghana Airways currency you may bring into Ghana. This must, also provides domestic services between Accra and however, be stated on the currency declaration the cities of Kumasi, Sunyani and Tamale. form.

5 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

Area Codes Foreign currency can be freely exchanged at any "Forex Bureaux" in the country. You can make long-distance telephone calls to other parts of the country by dialling the following COMMERCIAL BANKS area codes before the telephone number. Apart from Forex Bureaux, some commercial banks Accra 021 also exchange foreign currency. Banks are normally Akosombo 0251 open from 8.30 a.m. - 2 p.m., Monday through Cape Coast 042 Thursday and until 3 pm on Friday. Ho 091 TRAVELLERS' CHEQUES Koforidua 081 All banks and forex bureaux accept Travellers' Kumasi 051 Sekondi/Takoradi 031 Cheques although the rate of exchange might be slightly lower than for a cash transaction. Sunyani 061 Tamale 071 CREDIT CARDS Tema 0221 The most widely accepted credit cards are Ameri¬ For information on Accra dial 666684. To place a can Express, Diners, and Visa. Your card may be credit card or collect call to the USA direct, dial used for payment at nearly all airlines, leading 0191. hotels, and major supermarkets. Languages HELPFUL HINTS English is widely spoken throughout Ghana. It is the Packing the Right Clothing official language. Other languages spoken, based Since the climate is warm and tropical all year on ethnic groups, are Ga, Akan, Ewe, Dagbani and round, be sure to pack light washable cotton Hansa. clothing and casual wear. Do not forget your sun Religion glasses and comfortable walking shoes. There are There are three main religious groups in Ghana: no restrictions on what men and women may wear. -Traditional : 45% Slacks and shorts for both sexes is permissible. - Christian : 43% of the population.

Electricity - Moslems 12% If you are bringing along any electrical appliances, Churches of most major denominations and mos¬ they should operate on 220 volts. Electric outlets ques can be found in every region. here accept either three-pronged, and sometimes Price Guidelines two-pronged, British or Continental European type Whenever possible, we have listed current (1991) plugs or converters. prices for hotels, restaurants, taxis, and attractions. Tipping These prices are subject to change without notice. Tipping is permitted in hotels, restaurants, etc. It is rarely added to the bill. Whenever it is not added the MARKETS quality of service should dictate your generosity to In Ghana and particularly in Accra, women control the waiter, taxi driver, porter, guide, etc. most of the trading activities. But nowhere has their effectiveness been felt more than in the numerous Use of Cameras local markets scattered all over the country. While you are encouraged to use your camera The typical market scene is exciting. There is an throughout your vacation, there are a few "do's and endless wave of buyers and sellers; women with don'ts" in this area. Where you are in doubt consult babies strapped onto their backs, skillfully balance your guide. loads on their heads; everywhere one hears voices Communications engaged in bargaining and all around in the market are the colourful For your convenience, we have provided the main array of foodstuffs, textiles, and a location of the Post Office in each Region where you wide variety of miscellaneous views. It is a visual feast. can make telephone calls and send international mail. The best times to visit the markets are early in the Most major hotels also have business centres which morning about 8 a.m. Prices are not fixed, one is provide secretarial and courier services. expected to bargain.

6 Ghana - A Travel Guide

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Municipal Buses and "Trotros" New Year's Day January 1 For adventuresome visitors, there are many reliable Independence Day March 6 municipal bus companies (OSA, City Express, City Good Friday Line, King of Kings) or popular "trotros" (mini buses Easter Monday March/April or small wooden trucks) which are less expensive. May Day May 1 The buses or trotros can take you from city centres June 4th Anniversary June 4 to any of the suburbs. Fares generally range from Republic Day July 1 $40 - $120 depending on the distance. Christmas Day December 25 Boxing Day December 26 FESTIVALS Revolution Day December 31 Ghanain festivals commemorate important histori¬ cal events and thanksgiving occasions during which TRANSPORTATION people make merry. Family reunions take place and Car Rental Services they are a time of celebration for the people and Hired cars in Ghana are chauffeur driven. Most visitors are welcome to join in. We encourage you to major hotels have carhire services. participate in a festival ceremony during your visit. Taxis For the actual dates of any festival, please contact GTB in Accra. You should not have any problem finding taxis in Telephone: 665421 Ext. 6574. Ghana. They are easily recognizable by their bright CAMPING yellow fenders. Most operate from city centres to If you plan to camp anywhere in the country, it is suburbs but you can easily hire one for longer trips advisable to approach the chief of the town or village or even by the hour for a sightseeing excursion. and ask permission. Take along a gift when you Taxis in Ghana have no meters, so it is best to check make the request, preferably a bottle of schnapps. the fee before starting out. Depending on your destination, fares for a shared taxi range from $60 MEDICAL SERVICES to

GREATER ACCRA REGION

Let us first take you round Accra, which became The National Museum houses a fascinating collec¬ Ghana's capital in 1877 when the administration tion of Ghana's historical treasures as well as was removed from Cape Coast. Here in the nation's artifacts from other ancient African empires. The capital, you will find, on one hand, a bustling, collections range from pre-historic, archaeological modern metropolis, and on the other, fascinating discoveries, to colonial antiquities and exhibits of monuments to Ghana's relations with the outside contemporary African art. You can see the famous world throughout the country's history. Ashanti gold weights used long ago to determine As an ancient trading post between Africa and the value of goods. There is a collection of traditional Europe, Accra's commercial activities were largely drums used to convey messages between villages centred around two forts - James Fort and Ussher and linguists' staffs with totems of various Ghanaian Fort, from which the surrounding areas derived their tribal clans. names. The Museum is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. The admission fee is $600. There TOURIST ATTRACTIONS is an additional, nominal charge for taking CULTURAL photographs. The National Museum The National Museum is located within walkiing High Street distance of the Novotel Hotel on Barnes Road. It was The main street in one of the commercial areas is established in 1957 and was officially opened by the called High Street, where one will find a wide variety Duchess of Kent on the eve of Ghana's of boutiques, supermarkets and jewellery stores. Independence. Further down High Street, past the banks and the

7 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

his Central Library, are the Supreme Court buildings, wife, Shirley, were transferred to a final resting Parliament House and the old Polo Grounds where place dedicated in their honour, known as the Du Bois Memorial Centre for Pan Ghana's independence was declared on March 6, African Culture. The Centre has become a 1957. These grounds are being renamed in honour great tourist attraction of Ghana's first President Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, who and a source of inspiration to many. Dr. Du Bois led the country to independence in 1957. lived in the house now dedicated to him until his death. It is significant that he died on the eve of the Centre for National Culture (Arts Centre) Martin Luther King's historic march in Washington. Adjacent to this area is the Centre for National The Centre houses a research library and a gallery Culture, which preserves and presents Ghanaian of manuscripts and works of outstanding Pan- arts in various ways, through exhibits, workshops Africanists. There are facilities for lectures, work¬ and art galleries. The Bulletin Board at the entrance shops and video shows. to the Main Hall announces current programmes, University of Ghana plays and other cultural events - one attraction is the Saturday afternoon traditional variety show. 14km north of Accra, on the Airport Road past What interests most visitors, though, is the Centre's Tetteh Quarshie Circle, is Ghana's premier centre of arts and crafts bazaar and traditional textile market. higher education, the University of Ghana, at Legon. Some of the purchases you can make are listed in It was established in 1948. the "Shopping for Handicrafts" section of this guide. The campus has beautiful gardens and tree-lined drives. A walk or drive uphill provides an impressive Independence Square vista of Accra and the Atlantic ocean. The Univer¬ A fifteen minute walk further down High Street, sity's School of Performing Arts offers music and brings you to Independence Square which is the dancing lessons on request. The Balmo Library venue for many national celebrations. There is a war holds a large Africana collection. memorial in the Square dedicated to the unknown soldier and there is also the Independence Arch, Kokrobite Beach Resort especially constructed to commemorate Ghana's Situated in a rustic enclave 25km west of Accra is Independence from British colonial rule on March 6, the 30-room Kokrobite Resort and Academy of 1957. African Music and Arts. The Academy gives short Another monument in the Square reminds Gha¬ courses in drumming and dancing if you give them naians and visitors of the shooting on 28th February advance notice. Please contact P.O. Box 2923, 1948 of some Ghanaian veterans of World War II by Accra for more information. a British Police Officer. The angry protests and Nearby there is a typical fishing community which countrywide demonstrations against this incident designed and developed a United Nations award- strengthened the call for Independence. winning kiln for fish smoking known as the "Chorkor Smoker". It is worth a visit to Kokrobite just to taste Osu Castle delicious fish prepared by this method. Osu Castle, formerly known as Christianborg Castle, was built in 1659 and named after King Christian V FESTIVALS òf Denmark. Throughout its history, the Castle "Asafotufiam" changed hands among foreign competitors several "Asafotufiam" is an annual warrior's festival cele¬ times until the early 1920's. It has served as the brated by the people of Ada from the last Thursday official residence of colonial Governors and visiting of July to the first weekend of August. foreign dignitaries. Today it is the official seat of the It commemorates the victories of the warriors in Government. battle and those who fell on the battlefield. To re- The W.E.B. Du Bois grave and memorial enact these historic events, the "warriors" dress in Near the Castle wall is the former grave site of a traditional battle dress and stage a mock battle. This famous African American scholar, Dr. W.E.B. Du is also a time when the young men are introduced to Bois. Dr. Du Bois was an intellectual and a great warfare. Pan-Africanjst, who spent his last years in Ghana The festival also ushers in the harvest cycle, for working together with Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, the first which special customs and ceremonies are per¬ President of Ghana. Originally his body was interred formed. These include purification ceremonies. The celebration reaches its climax a near the castle; later his remains and the ashes of in durbar of Chiefs,

8

Ghana - A Travel Guide

Upper left: Boti Falls near Koforidua during the rainy season. Photo: M.J. Watson Upper right: Queen Mother and Linguists at the Odwira Kese festival, Eastern Region. Lower left: Initiates at the Dipo festival of the Krobo people. Lower right: Aburi Botanical Gardens, a short drive from Accra.

Ghana - A Travel Guide

HANDICRAFTS a colourful procession of the Chiefs in palanquins with their retinue. They are accompanied by Centre for National Culture (Arts Centre) traditional military groups called "Asafo Companies" Adjacent to the Centre for National Culture there is amidst drumming, singing and dancing through the an open-air arts and crafts bazaar which sells a streets and on to the durbar grounds. At the durbar, variety of interesting souvenirs. These artifacts are greetings are exchanged between the chiefs, crafted in wood, cloth, leather, metal, or beads, and libations are poured and declarations of allegiance are representative of Ghanaian made. workmanship from nearly every region of the country. Listed are some The Homowo Festival of the things you may find especially interesting. This is a harvest festival celebrated by the Gas. It Gold Weights - These are reproductions of the famous originated during a period of great famine which Ashanti weights which were originally made of copper, was eventually followed by a bumper harvest in bronze and brass and were cast from wax models grain and fish. Thus, the word Homowo, literally enclosed in clay which was baked to make the mould. The means "hooting at hunger". weights are in human and animal forms and each form The main highlight of this month-long festival is the tells its own story, rooted in the country's history and special dish prepared from ground corn, steamed culture. and mixed with palm oil and eaten with palm oil Oware Boards - Oware is one of the oldest games of soup. Prayers for a peaceful and prosperous year Ghana. The gameboard is made of wood in which two are offered. Each Ga chief is followed by a retinue parallel sets of six holes have been carved. The playing with drumming, dancing and singing through his pieces are usually seeds from the Mulucca Bean or Nicker area where he sprinkles some of the special dish Nut Tree. It can take hours to play a game. Tradition states called "Kpokpoi" and pours libation. It is merry¬ that a game of oware between a man and a woman lasted making for Gas and visitors in particular are invited so long, they decided to get married so that they would home to join in the feasting. have enough time to finish the game. So the game derived its name from the Akan word which literally means "he MARKETS marries'!

The 31st December Makola Market Textiles & Garments - Gay cotton fabrics always attract The 31st December Makola Market is located on attention with their fascinating designs and brilliant Kojo Thompson Road. It is a large and busy market, colours. They are produced in Ghana at the textile mills in Tema and Akosombo. There are also the equally popular, where traders from surrounding villages bring their but perhaps more expensive, textiles such as batiks, tie- wares every day. and-dye, Kente, Adinkra, and Kyenkyen fabrics. Many of Kaneshie Market the cloths have names like "Adasima Proe" ("half stone, half Located along the Kaneshie-Mallam Road, this is a metal") - so be sure to check if the design you have chosen has a special name. three-storey market built to satisfy the great demands of a growing city. You will find foodstuffs Kente Cloth - Kente is the national cloth of Ghana. This on the ground floor, provisions and household items colourful and distinctive cloth is usually worn on festive and official occasions. A full length Kente up on the first floor and textiles on the second. The cloth is made of small Kente strips by special craftsmen. To learn more Kaneshie Market is open from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. about Kente and its origins, visit the National Museum on Osu Night Market Barnes Road. One of the interesting sights in Accra at night is the Batakari - Produced in northern Ghana, Batakari is Osu Night Market. Hundreds of lanterns illuminate woven from handspun threads of coarse cotton. Batakari mouth-watering local delicacies such as juicy is usually fashioned into loose pullovers, or smock-like roasted meat or fish smothered in hot pepper sauce. tunics worn by men and boys.

Try some kenkey (a ball of boiled fermented corn Adinkra - The name of this beautiful Ghanaian cloth dough) with fried or grilled fish and ground pepper, literally means "leave-taking or parting", thus it is primarily or "fufu" (the soft dough-like paste of pounded worn for funerals, It derives its unique qualities from hand- casava and plantain) that is eaten with light/palm or stamped symbols which represent Akan proverbs and ground nut soup with mutton or fish. folklore. The symbols are carved on calabash which is then There is a similar market at the Kwame Nkrumah dipped in a dye made from bark, and printed on plain Circle. cotton cloth.

13 Ghana - A Travel Guide

Ghana Export Promotion Council - Handicraft TRANSPORTATION Emporium Car Rental Services A wide range of artifacts, souvenirs and textile Speedway/Avis Rentals, Sobukwe Road, Tel: products is available at the Handicraft Emporium, 227744 which is located in Republic House on Kwame Vanef Car Rentals, Sobukwe Road, Tel: 229554 Nkrumah Avenue. Tarn Tours Rentals Community 3, in Tema, Tel: The Loom 226439 The Loom is an art gallery which sells carvings, paintings and textiles. It is located near Kwame SELECTED HOTELS Nkrumah Circle, opposite the Pioneer Tobacco Labadi Beach Hotel Company offices. A new 5-star, 104-room hotel, the Labadi Beach BANKS AND FOREX BUREAUX Hotel, under the management of Metropole, will be Here are a few houses that are conveniently located in operation by August 1991. near area hotels: Amenities: Two restaurants, three bars including a First African Forex, Bureau Kwame Nkrumah bridge bar over the lagoon; a swimming pool; Circle conference facilities for 400, business centre, Ghanair Forex Bureau, at the Airport Ladan's Forex Bureau, Post Office Lane sljop| and a one-kilometre beach frontage. Golden ft* Transtrade Forex Bureau, in Building No. 1x78, Tulip Comm. 1, Commercial Area. Formerly the Continental Hotel, this 4-star deluxe airport hotel on completion in August 1991 will offer Commercial Banks 166 rooms and 16 luxury chalets, two restaurants, The Main Branches of leading banks are located on conference facilities for up to 400, a business 28th February Road: centre, swimming pool, tennis courts, casino. Bank of Ghana: Tel: (021) 666902/8 Ghana Commercial Bank: Tel: (021) 664491 Ambassador Hotel Barclays Bank: Tel: (021) 664914 Built in 1956 to celebrate Ghana's independence on Standard Bank: The head office of the Bank for 6th March 1957, the 152-room hotel in a large Housing and Construction is located in Mobil House. garden in the city centre is being refurbished to 4- star HOSPITALS rating for re-opening late in 1991 under Esta Gestão de Hotels, a Portuguese management Körle Bu Teaching Hospital on the west end of Ring Road. group. Facilities will include: three restaurants, conference facilities for up to 500, banquet halls, Ridge Hospital in the Ridge residential area; has a good paediatric ward and dental service. shopping arcade with coffee shop, casino, business centre, two swimming pools, health club, tennis Military Hospital - 37 (National Emergency court etc. _ Hospital) in north Accra on Airport Road; civilians must pay for medical treatment. tti fk* Novotel - Accra Police Hospital near Danquah Circle off Ring The 190-room Novotel is a luxury hotel located in Road; civilians must pay for medical treatment. the centre of the city, about 7km from the airport. ACCRA INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE CENTRE For your convenience, Novotel has an airport A modern conference centre to host the 10th courtesy bus service. However, there are always Ministerial Conference of the Non-Aligned Move¬ plenty of taxis to take you to and from the airport. ment (NAM) scheduled for September 1991. It There are facilities for the handicapped. Rooms consists of a 1,600 capacity main hall, a balcony, have mini bars, colour television with 4 channels multifunctional halls for conferences, congresses, including CNN. folkshows, cinema, theatrical, music and rock Rates: $42,000-(p28,700. shows; a press centre, shopping centre and all Telephone: 667546 modern communication equipment necessary for Amenities: Restaurant, lounges, IDD Telephone, gift the smooth functioning of a modern conference shop, Business Centre, conference rooms, pool, centre. tennis court, Forex Bureau, Car Hire service.

14 Ghana - A Travel Guide

Fissure Lodge Tema. Currently under construction, the hotel will The Fissure Lodge is located in a quiet residential have 14 rooms when it is completed - four are available now. area called Roman Ridge. The hotel has eight luxury suites with mini bars, kitchenettes, colour tele¬ Telephone: 4742/4312. visions and video. Amenities: Outdoor restaurant, pool, wading pool, Rates: $34,200. 18-hole golf course. Telephone: 772190/772235. Sunrise Hotel, North Ridge - Amenities: Restaurant, Business Centre, confer¬ Tel: 224575 222201, 2-star, $13,200-$22,000. ence rooms, Car Hire service. Shangri-La Hotel North Ridge Hotel, North Ridge - Tel: 225809 The Shangri-La is a well-appointed hotel located in 229315, 2-star, $11,000-$16,000. the Airport Residential Area, about five minutes' King David Hotel, Kokomlemle - Tel: 229832 drive from the airport. 225280, 2-star, $13,000-$15,000. It has 44 rooms housed in 11 chalets. With mini bars, colour televisions and video. Penta Hotel, Osu - Tel: 774529, 2-star, Rates: $22,000, $26,000, $29,000. $15,400—$23,100. Telephone: 772128. Granada Hotel, Airport-Tel: 775343/44, Amenities: Restaurant, lounge, pool, tennis court, 2-star, Forex Bureau, horse back riding, conference room, $18,150—$24,200. Business agency, Centre, Car Hire service, travel Sunspot Hotel, Airport - Tel: 773322, 2-star, IDD telephone service, Doctor on call. $12,000—$18,150. Sanaa Lodge Sunlodge Hotel, Tesano - Tel: 220443, 2-star, This small luxury hotel is located in the residential $14,300—$17,000. area of Tesano, which is about 5km. from the airport. It has ten air-conditioned rooms, each with Kingsby Hotel, Achimota - Tel: 223742, 2-star, colour television and a mini bar. $13,200—$17,000. Rates: $14,300 (Single) Marriset Hotel, Airport - Tel: 775922, 2-star, $17,600 (Double) $11,600—$13,760. Telephone: 220443. Amenities: Restaurant, grill bar, IDD telephone Marriset Hotel, Osu - Tel: 774542, 2-star, service, pool, tennis court, Car Hire service, Doctor $11,600—$13,760. on call. Blue Angels Guest House, Dzorwulu - Tel: Coco Beach Resort 772353, $17,580—$19,250. This 10-room beachfront hotel is located off the main Accra-Tema Road, at Teshie Nungua. About Gye Nyame Hotel, Asylum Down - Tel: 223321, twenty minutes' drive from the city centre, this little 1 -star, $8,800—$14,000. resort is constructed in a typically African style. The St. Georges Hotel, Adabraka - Tel: 224699, 1- beach is great for sun seekers and the hotel also has star, $8,800—$14,000. facilities for campers. Rates: $ 8,250 (Double) Maple Leaf, Achimota - Tel: 225185, 1 -star, $10,455 (Double) $8,000—$10,000. $14,300 (Double) $22,000 (Suite) Telephone: 712887/229997. SELECTED RESTAURANTS Amenities: Open-air restaurant, curio shop, Doctor Ghanaian/African cuisine: Tel: on call. Country Kitchen, Osu 229187 Celebrity Golf Club & Holiday Resort The African Touch, East Legon Located outside the city centre, just off the Accra- Edvy, National Museum 229348 Tema Beach Road at Sakumono the hotel is a 30- Afrikiko, independence Avenue 229997 minute drive from Accra or a 10-minute drive from Coco Beach, Nungua

15 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

Continental: Tel: Blue Gate Chez Marie Lou, Osu 774891 Blue Gate is in Nyaniba Estates, Osu, on the Ring Chez Mammie, Osu Road Central, about 2km from the heart of Accra. Restaurant 400, Adabraka 225708 Besides drinks, Blue Gate also serves Ghanaian Anabelle, Adabraka 221413 dishes on request. It is open from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. Ritz, Abossey Okai 220917 daily. Stop Over, Airport Number One Celebrity, Sakumono Number One is a popular spot located at the Aamal, Kokrobite Danquah Circle on Ring Road Central. It has music Oriental: and provides quick meals and a variety of drinks/be¬ Maharaja (Indian), Osu 772137 verages at reasonable prices. Open until 11.30 p.m. Sheilla (Korean), Osu 777968 daily. Korean Restaurant, Tema Com.8 6244 Songaw Lounge Ainlone, (Chinese), Labone 772782 The Songaw Lounge is located in the lobby of the Regal (Chinese), Osu Novotel Hotel. It is open 24 hours a day. Pearl Of The East (Chinese), Osu Bus Stop and Airport 774907 Bus Stop is another popular spot located on Ring Mandarin (Chinese), Osu 775428/776368 Road Central. It is a "sidewalk cafe". Besides Golden Dragon (Chinese), Osu beverages Bus Stop serves hamburgers, dough¬ Golden Lilly (Chinese) nuts, meatpies, sausage rolls, ice cream and quick Trade Fair Site 772081 meals. Open 24 hours a day. SNACK BARS NIGHT CLUBS Le Bistro, Ring Road Central Ginseng Gardens Dollies, Osu 226978 This highly-patronised night club is located in a busy Bus Stop, Ring Road Central 220930 business area on Subokwe Road, Adabraka. Gin¬ Ramec, Ring Road Central, Osu seng Gardens serves meals together with good music. There is a secured car park for patrons. NIGHT LIFE SPOTS Red Onion Nite Club Red Onion Kaneshie Located in one of the oldest areas of The Balm Tavern Kaneshie the city, Fine Style Behind Police Headquarters, Kaneshie, the Red Onion is about 3km from the city Cantonments centre. Its good music attracts many patrons, Max Jazz Club Os especially at weekends, Club Casino Africana Tesano Balm Tavern G 'n' G Stallion Club Osu The Balm Tavern is also located in Kaneshie. The Blow-Up Kwame Nkrumah Circle decor is exotically African and the music is soft. Cave Du Roi Ringway Estates Cave Du Roi Ginseng Gardens Sobukwe Road, Adabraka You will find the Cave du Roi in Ringway Estates - Studio All That Jazz Osu. It is one of the oldest night clubs in the city. The Osu, Pearl of the East Restaurant Cave is busiest at weekends. It has a fully stocked Ghana Film Theatre bar and prices are moderate. Kanda, Liberation Rd near Sankara Circle G 'n' G Stallion Rex Cinema Near Parliament House, Accra Although this is primarily a private club, private Globe Cinema Tudu. patronage is permitted. G 'n' G Stallion is a lively video disco and LOUNGES AND DRINKING SPOTS you will find it on Osu Highway. It is The Creek open daily and serves light snacks. Located about 2km from the city centre, in the Blow-Up residential neighbourhood of North Kaneshie. It is Blow-Up is located near Kwame Nkrumah Circle, easily reached by taxi or bus. Enjoy the soft and cool Adabraka and is easily accessible by taxi from most music along with your choice of beverage. Open parts of the city. It is open throughout the week; daily until midnight. however, weekends are the most popular.

16 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

Cinemas, Video Houses and Theatres * Sleek Fashions, in Nyaniba Estates The Film Theatre at Kanda, just a few metres north * Scooby's Fashions, in Nyaniba Estates of Sankara Circle, shows interesting films and local * Ginatu Exclusives, in North Kaneshie productions. Show times are 6.30 p.m. and 8.30 * Chez Julie, on Cantonments Road p.m. Entrance fees are moderate. Laundry Other recommended cinemas are Rex Cinema near & Dry Cleaning Services Most hotels have laundry services; however, if you Parliament House and A&A Video Club - Osu. have a garment that needs special care and Coiffure attention, contact:

For intricate * braids, "weave-ons", or natural, Wiseway Cleaners, in Adabraka - Osu relaxed hair styles, there are numerous saloons to * Quick Clean, near the Legon Calvary Baptist take care of your special look. They are open Church Monday through Saturday. Communications Fashion Houses Telephone or secretarial services are available at: Fashion Houses in Accra range from traditional to * M & J, in Osu haute couture. Here are a few places that have * ABSC, in Osu styles which will give you that tropical flair: * Gyamfi Garments, on Asafo Nettey Road Should you need to send an urgent message home * Flash, beside the Afrikiko Restaurant or within Ghana, EMS Courier Services are available * Ghana Export Promotion Council at the Centre at the Post Office Cantonments Communications for National Culture (Arts Centre) Centre and DHL on Sobukwe Road.

THE EASTERN REGION

The Eastern region offers a number of Ghana's Company Office at Akosombo (Tel: (0251 ) 697) or in popular tourist attractions, for it has a richly varied Accra (Tel: (021) 665300) can provide the latest landscape of tropical forest, rivers and a great lake. information on schedules. It is also the location for several of Ghana's major An impressive feature of the Lake is the Volta Dam, cultural events. In the Eastern region, the modern which supplies hydro-electric power to several parts blends in with the ancient; it is so close to the of Ghana and to the neighbouring countries of Togo nation's capital at Accra, yet can present such a and Benin. You will enjoy a panoramic view of the contrast. Dam from the balconies of the Volta Hotel.

Aburi Botanical Gardens TOURIST ATTRACTIONS The Gardens were originally as an NATURAL created in 1890 agricultural research station and a habitat for plants The Volta Lake from around the world. Over the years the Botanical The Volta Lake Is one of the largest man-made lakes Gardens have collected together a variety of tropical in the world. Created in 1965 as a result of the flora which attracts scores of birds and butterflies. damming of the Volta River at Akosombo, the Lake Situated in the town of Aburi, which is well-known stretches from Akosombo in the south (at Yapei) to for its healthy climate, the Gardens also have Buipe in the north. Both towns are within an hour's pleasant indoor-outdoor restaurants and facilities drive of Tamale, the Northern Region's capital. for staying overnight. The Lake offers a variety of opportunities for cruises, Butterfly Sanctuary water sports and angling. It also has many fascinating islands and islets, such as Dodi Island, 10km north of Kibi is the magic forest of Atewa- where facilities for excursions are being developed. Atwirebu. This nature lovers' paradise has over 150 With the recent construction of modern ports at different species of ferns and other flora. The forest Akosombo and Buipe, passengers and cargo can Is filled with the enchanting sounds of birds and now move easily by boat to and from the north insects including the "Papillio Antimachus", one of throughout the week. The Volta Lake Transport the largest butterflies in Africa!

17 Ghana - A Travel Guide

Boti Falls HISTORIC In the forest reserve at Huhunya near Koforidua is a Krobo Mountains - Klowem small seasonal waterfall known as Boti Falls. It is fed The Mountains are believed to have been the first by the River Pawnpawn and is best enjoyed between home of the Krobo people when they migrated to June-August, during the rainy season. In the Ghana between the 15th and 16th centuries. These immediate vicinity of the falls are caves, cascades, mountains provided a natural protective barrier and an "umbrella" rock worth exploring. against marauding slave raiders and other invaders. However, in 1852 a 100-man British army forced Kwahu Scarp the Krobos to evacuate their home. Relics, interest¬ Breath-taking in its beauty, this area is home to the ing architectural designs and ruins of buildings have Kwahus (pronunced kwa-woos). On top of the survived, and can be seen on the mountain today. mountain there are a number of well-planned, Tetteh Quarshie's Original Cocoa Farm picturesque communities with beautiful homes. This was the first cocoa farm established in the Further north of the Kwahu Scarp is the Afram Plain, country. The cocoa seeds are believed to have been which is a transitional zone of wooded savanna brought from Fernanda Po Island by Tetteh Quar- land. The Volta River is at its broadest here, and shie, who set up the farm at Mampong-Akwapim in opportunities for boating and angling abound. Trips 1879. The farm was replanted in 1960, but three of into the vast Digya Game Reserve are also possible the original trees still remain to this day. You can see from here. the farm and Tetteh Quarshie's home by contacting Akonedi Shrine, Larteh the Caretaker at the Mampong Chief's Palace. Larteh is 56km north of Accra, on the Akwapim Okomfo Anokye's Shrine Ridge. There you will find the Akonedi Shrine where Okomfo Anokye, a legendary priest, is credited wih herbal medicine as well as psychic healing are founding the great Asante Empire. A shrine is practiced by the fetish. A fee is charged to observe dedicated to his supernatural exploits at Awukugua- religious ceremonies. Akwapim. Scattered throughout the towns on the Diamond Mines Akwapim Ridge (Awukugua, Apirede, Amanokrom, At Akwatia, 2 hours drive from Accra, is the only Brekuso) mysterious phenomena attributed to this 18th diamond mine in the country. This open-cast mine century priest can be found; for example, his hand and foot imprints are permanently etched in is open to tourists. It has recreational facilities and a solid stone. There is also an Oware board which he guest house. reportedly carved from stone. Cocoa Research Institute The Shrine is located at Awukugua 60km from New Tafo, 24km from Koforidua, has a Cocoa Koforidua. Research Institute with arboretums and model Old Basel Missionary Buildings farms. Botanists will find the Institute of particular The Akwapim Ridge has a long history of missionary interest. The Institute also has recreational facilities work, especially in the field of education. Residents including a bar and golf course, can which be of the area warmly welcomed the advent of booked by advance reservation. Christianity in the country, and that Christian Tropical Forest heritage is still strongly evident. You will find several The Eastern Region is noted for its large areas of monuments and buildings constructed by the Basel lush, tropical forests, especially in the Birim district, Missionaries on the Ridge. where you will find the largest tree in West Africa. It FESTIVALS has a girth of 10.37 metres and is 128 metres tall. The "Odwira" Festival of Akwapim This impressive tree is located in the Esen-Epam This festival is celebrated in most Akwapim towns Forest Reserve in Asantemanso, on the Accra-Akim during the months of September to October, with Oda Road. the most colourful festivities taking place at Akro- Slave Market of Abonse pong, Amanokrom and Aburi. During Odwira, the Chiefs sit The town of Abonse was an important slave market in state and receive homage from the in the 17th and 18th centuries. Traces of the people. The ceremonies include purification of the original market can still be seen. stools

18 Ghana - A TraveI Guide and performance of traditional rites. Libations are SELECTED RESTAURANTS poured to the gods for prosperity and the general Royal Botanical Gardens Restaurant, Aburi well-being of the people during the ensuing year. Located in the serene, relaxing setting of the Aburi Drumming and dancing accompany the celebration. Gardens, the restaurant serves delicious Continen¬ tal and Ghanaian cuisine. Buffets are available for Ngmayem This is the annual traditional harvest and thanksgiv¬ special occasions. Meal prices range from $1,000 ing festival of the Krobo people. It is celebrated in to $3,500 per person. Tel: (081) 3055. March-April by the people of Manya and Yilo Krobo Linda Dor Restaurant, Koforidua in the towns of Krobo Odumase and Somanya, Prompt service and good quality meals are the about 80km north of Accra. hallmarks of the Linda Dor. Located close to the For more details on the dates for the festival this Railway Station, Its meal prices range from an year, please contact the Ghana Tourist Board. affordable $900 to $3,000 per person. SELECTED HOTELS Goil Restaurant - Nkawkaw Hotel Eredec, Koforidua This The Hotel Eredec is a bungalow-type hotel with 40 cosy restaurant is located at the Goil Service Station, Nkawkaw on the busy Accra-Kumasi rooms; each has a private shower and toilet. The hotel has a restaurant, conference hall and other Highway. It serves flavoursome Ghanaian dishes. Meal function rooms. It is located on Forces Street, in the prices are from $500 per plate. Link Residential Area, approximately 2km from the Commercial Restaurant, Koforidua town centre. Tel: (081) 3234,3296. Rates: $7,700 The Commercial Restaurant is located in the (Single), $8,800/$11,000 (Twin), $16,500 International Dialing and Telex Office Building in (Executive). Koforidua. It serves simple but tasty local dishes at St. James Hotel, Koforidua reasonable prices starting at $500 a plate. The newest hotel in Koforidua, the St. James has 23 All-ln-One Restaurant, Nkawkaw rooms with private bath/shower and toilet. All rooms A counterpart to the Goil Restaurant at Nkawkaw, are air-conditioned and have a mini-bar, colour T.V. the All-ln-One offers inexpensive meals and rest and hot water. It is located at Densuagya Road, stop facilities to the numerous motorists who travel approximately 3km from the town centre. Tel: (081) the Accra-Kumasi Highway. Prices start from $500 3165. Rates: $16,500 (all rooms). and Ghanaian and Continental dishes are both Partners May Hotel, Koforidua served. Set in elegant gardens with well-manicured lawns, this 11 -room hotel is located close to Hotel Eredec, DRINKING SPOTS approximately 2km from the town centre. All rooms Bobby Spot, Koforidua have private toilet and baths, hot water and Situated at Roman Junction, adjacent to the Prisons telephone. Tel: (081 ) 3138. Rates: $7,700 (Single), $8,800—$11,000 (Double). Park, Bobby Spot has prompt service and a variety of beverages. BUDGET HOTELS Lakeside Motel J.S.P. Bar, Somanya On the Accra-Akosombo Highway, 15 minutes drive A pleasant little drinking spot, J.S.P. Bar is located from Akosombo, the Lakeside Motel is set on a hill at the town centre very close to the Ghana overlooking the Volta Lake. It has 15 rooms, each Commercial Bank. with private bath and toilet, a restaurant, and an Blue Note Bar, Koforidua open-air bar. Tel: range (0251) 310. Room rates Located in the heart of Koforidua, at popular from $4,500 to $6,000 per night. Jackson Park, the Blue Note Bar serves drinks and G.M.E. Hotel snacks. Its smartly-attired servers complement the The G.M.E. has 21 rooms and well-maintained prompt service. facilities. Room rates range between $1,540 and Hill End $3,080. The hotel has a restaurant and a meeting Bar, Mampong Akwapim room, and is located behind the Methodist Church, The Hill End Bar's comfortable garden setting approximately 2km from the town centre. attracts a large number of patrons.

19 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

NIGHT CLUBS Accra), this village is noted for its cane products, such as Bula Matari Night Club shopping baskets, fruit baskets and other raffia-woven items. Carved wooden mortars and This spacious open-air night club is located at the stools are available. Old Estate Junction at Koforidua. Dances are held every weekend. Snacks and a variety of beverages Kwahu are available. Several villages close to Nkawkaw specialize in MARKETS pottery items, including plates, bowls, pots, etc, which are quite inexpensive. The towns of Ofra- Adawso Market mase, Kwahu Nsaba and Mpraeso-Amanfram are The Adawso Market is situated in the foothills of the good places to stop and shop. Akwapim Ridge, midway on the Mamfe-Koforidua Road. Akwapim Ridge It is best to go on market days (Tuesdays and At Aburi and Ahwerease you will find traditional Fridays) when items ranging from foodstuffs and wood carvers with amazing creative ability, They vegetables to handicrafts and fabrics are sold. produce beautiful local drums, masks, decorative stools, fertility dolls and other interesting souvenirs. Agatha Market, Koforidua Located in the regional capital, Koforidua, the market first started on a small scale at the Central CURRENCY EXCHANGE Railway Station. Market days are Mondays and The Region's only foreign exchange office, Green Fridays and prices are, as usual, negotiable. Forex Bureau, has two branches in Koforidua. Asesewa Market HOSPITALS Situated in the Manya Krobo district, very close to Koforidua Central Hospital - the largest hospital Koforidua, this old, popular market specializes-in in the region. foodstuffs. Market days are Mondays and Wednesdays. St. Joseph's Hospital - run by the Roman Catholic Mission, it has an excellent Orthopaedic Nsawam Market Unit. Nsawam, a well-patronized market, is 23km from Accra. Its market days are Mondays and Tuesdays. Vra Hospital, Akosombo - owned and operated Delicious fruits and vegetables are sold here, but by the Volta River Authority. prices tend to be quite high. So be prepared to HERBAL MEDICINE negotiate. Herbal Medicine is practised extensively in the HANDICRAFT Region. Mampong-Akwapim has a Traditional Her¬ Akim Enyiresi bal Medicine Research Centre which conducts On the Accra-Kumasi Highway (about 170km from scientific research and produces herbal remedies.

20

Ghana - A TraveI Guide

Boat building and fishermen at Elmina's busy port. Upper photo: Abbott - Jamieson

23

THE CENTRAL REGION

Cape Coast, the capital of the Central Region, is just West African Historical Museum about a two-hour drive west of Accra. The region is The Museum is located inside Cape Coast Castle famous for its ancient forts and castles, beautiful and contains a growing collection of art and cultural coconut palm shaded beaches and for a peculiar objects from various parts of West Africa, for elegance of attitude which is recorded and cele¬ example ceremonial drums, old muskets, shackles brated in literature. Apart from Cape Coast, Elmina from the slave trade and ancient pottery. The price is the next well-known destination for tourists. of admission is included in your castle entry fee. However, the Region is rich in other fascinating Elmina Castle historic places such as Anomabu, Abandze, Just 10km west of Cape Coast is the township of Komenda and Moree. Elmina, the first point of contact between the THE CASTLES Europeans and the inhabitants of Ghana. A visit to Three of the castles have been designated World Elmina Castle is both memorable and moving, for Heritage Monuments by the World Heritage Founda¬ within these walls significant events took place tion under UNESCO. They are Cape Coast Castle, which contributed to the shaping of the history of the Elmina Castle and Fort St Jago. world. Cape Coast Castle In 1471, a Portuguese expedition arrived, led by Most historians believe that Cape Coast Castle was Don Diego d'Azambuja. Because of the vast amount of originally built as a small trading lodge which was gold and ivory they found here, they called the subsequently added to and enlarged until it became area "Mina de Ouro" - the gold mine. Elmina soon became the centre of a a fortification. In 1637 the lodge was occupied by thriving trade in gold, ivory the Dutch. Then, in 1652, it was captured by the and slaves, which were exchanged for cloth, beads, Swedes, who named it Fort Carolusburg. For a time, brass bracelets and other goods brought by the both the local people and various European powers Portuguese. fought for and gained possession of the fort. Finally, In 1482, the Portuguese built St. George's Castle in 1664, after a four-day battle, the fort was (Elmina Castle). This vast rectangular 97,000 sq ft captured by the British and re-named Cape Coast fortification is the earliest known European structure Castle. The Castle served as the seat of the British in the tropics. administration in the then Gold Coast (Ghana) until As the immensely profitable trade in gold and slaves the administration was moved to Christianborg at Elmina increased, it began to attract the attention Castle in Accra on March 19,1877. of other European nations, and a struggle for control Like most ancient fortifications in Ghana, Cape of the Castle ensued. Finally in 1637, after two Coast Castle played a significant role in the gold and previously unsuccessful attempts, the Dutch cap¬ slave trades. Also, as a result of the European tured Elmina Castle and remained in control for the influence here, two significant contributions were next 274 years. made that are still evident today: the arrival of A guided tour is offered daily. The admission fee is Christianity in the country, and the establishment of the same as that of Cape Coast Castle. The Castle the first formal education system through Castle also has a gift shop for the sale of books and Schools. souvenirs on the history of the castle. A guided tour of the Cape Coast Castle will acquaint Fort St Jago you with its many interesting features including Fort St Jago is within walking distance of Elmina Dalzel Tower, the graves of Governor George Castle. It is from this vantage point that the Dutch Maclean and his wife Leticia Landon, the slave launched their successful land attack on Elmina dungeons, Palaver Hall, and the cannons and Castle. Unlike other area forts, St Jago was not used mortars used in the Castle's defense. for trading activities. Its primary purpose was to Guided tours of Cape Coast are available from 8.30 provide military protection to the Castle and to serve a.m. to noon and 2.00 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. daily. The as a disciplinary institution for European convicts general admission fee, which includes a guided and malcontents. tour, is 4:600 (foreigners) or $100 (Ghanaians). Bring your camera along, for this little Fort and the There is also a nominal charge of $500 for taking hill on which it stands also provides an excellent photographs or $1,000 for using a video camera. view of Elmina township and the Castle.

25 Ghana - A Travel Guide

The Dutch Cemetery environment, then you will appreciate the import¬ In the centre of town, near the "Posuban" Shrine ance of the Kakum and Assin Atandanso Reserve. (you will recognize it by the life-size statues and The development of the area has been deliberately highy-decorated facade) is the Dutch Cemetery. slow and cautious, in the attempt to conserve the Built in the 19th century, it contains the graves of reserve's fragile ecosystem. many former residents of the Castle and of Guided Nature Tours important local citizens. You cannot help but be a little startled by the very young age at which so Trained park guides provide two-hour nature tours, many of these people died. A mausoleum in the on one of several trails, that will acquaint you with centre of the Cemetery was reserved for the tombs more than 40 fascinating plants and trees, such as of the Castle's Governors. the Strangling Fig, that silently embraces its host — to death, or the Otuwere, whose huge thorns were NATURAL ATTRACTIONS removed, then carved and used like rubber stamps Beaches in the past. Beach lovers are assured of a relaxing experience Besides a description of the economic and cultural on the Region's beaches. We have twelve hours of uses of many of these trees, guides also explain sunshine nearly every day (especially from January their medicinal value. The forest provides ingredi¬ - June and October - a December) and surf that ents for treatment of a wide variety of ailments - varies from absolute calm to sizeable waves. The from serious ones like leprosy, small pox or tumours best beaches are listed below: to simpler problems like an upset stomach or a Brenu Beach toothache. Between the villages of Ankwanda and Brenu (For your comfort and protection against minor Akyinim, about 15 minutes by car from Elmina, is a scratches and fire ants, bring along walking shoes, 3km stretch of palm-fringed, virgin beach where the socks and long pants). water is clean and cool and excellent for swimming. Reservations There is also a peaceful lagoon nearby which is the winter home of hundreds of migratory birds. To Guided tours of the reserve are available daily from reach Brenu Beach, travel 10km west of Elmina on 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Since groups are limited to eight the Accra-Takoradi Highway. Turn at the sign, and people each, advance reservations are recom¬ follow the branch road for 5km to its end. mended. Please contact the Ghana Tourist Board Winneba (Tel: (042) 2934) or CEDECOM (Tel: (042) 2288) to confirm availability. A one hour drive west from Accra will take you to Sir Charles Beach Resort. The resort has a hotel and Wildlife Tours restaurant and is a favourite spot among internatio¬ By 1992 there will be additional tours which will nal tourists. The 4km stretch of beach adjacent to take you deeper into the 350 sq km reserve to the hotel has are gentle waters that ideal for discover the habitats of some of the world's rare and swimming. most endangered wildlife species, for example; the Gomoa Fetteh .nearly extinct Mona Monkey, Bongos, Royal Ante¬ Just 30km from Accra, this interesting coastal lopes, Duikers, Forest Elephants, Giant Forest Hogs, settlement Is hidden away at the end of a 13km Honey Badgers, African Civet Cats and Forest branch road off the Accra-Takoradi Highway. Its Buffalos. lovely, undisturbed beach is perfect for picnics and This tour is now being developed; contact the the mild surf is safe for swimming. Kakum-Assin Atandanso Park Headquarters for Kakum and Assin Attandanso Nature Reserve more details. Inquiries are also invited from scien¬ 30km north of Cape Coast, on the Dunkwa-0n-0ffin tific and conservation organisations interested In Road at Abrafo, is the newly-established 350 sq km participating in the work/study programmes which nature park. This reserve was formed to protect one will be available. For further information, call or write of the last vestiges of Ghana's rapidly-vanishing to: Kakum-Assin Atandanso Park Headquarters, c/o tropical rain forest and the rare wildlife it contains. Central Region Development Commission, P.O. Box If you are one of the growing number of people Cape Coast, C.R., Ghana. Telephone: (042) 2288 around the world who are concerned about the (Cape Coast).

26 Ghana - A Travel Guide

FESTIVALS AND CULTURAL EVENTS IN THE reserve, where each tries to catch an antelope live. REGION It is an adventurous event to test the strength, The region's culture is depicted through many bravery, determination and intuition of the two rival interesting and colourful festivals throughout the groups. The winner presents the catch to the year. Paramount Chief who sits in state with the sub- These annual festivals serve a variety of purposes, chiefs and subjects. The antelope is sacrificed as an such as purification of the "stools", cleansing invocation for good harvest and a bountiful fishing communities of evils, ancestral veneration and season. supplications to the deities for prosperity and unity. A durbar and procession of the chiefs and warrior The festivals' major highlights include drumming, groups in their colourful regalia is the highlight of dancing and firing of musketry. Chiefs, adorned in the celebrations. Brass bands, dancing, perfor¬ rich kente cloth and bedecked in gold, are paraded mances of folk lore and parties make this an through the town in "palanquins", shaded by huge unforgettable event. and colourful parasols. "Fetu Afahye" These celebrations attract many visitors."It is It is celebrated annually on the first Saturday of therefore advisable to reserve a hotel at least one September by communities in the Cape Coast month in advance. Some of the most well-known Traditional Area (Fetu). It is characterized by a festivals are: durbar of chiefs and processions of Asafo Compa¬ "Bakatue" nies (traditional warrior groups) and numerous social Literally translated to mean "opening up of the organisations. Every member of the group is adorned in rich and colourful clothes, thus creating Benya Lagoon into the sea", Bakatue symbolises the the beginning of a fishing season, which is the main grandeur of this festival which literally means livelihood of the people of Elmina. "adorning of new clothes". It is celebrated annually in Elmina on the first A procession of the seven Asafo Companies in their Tuesday in July and originated centuries ago, long unique costumes depicts a fusion of the Fante and before the arrival of the Europeans. The splendid European cultures, (typically, Portuguese, Dutch, Swedish and ceremonies include a durbar of chiefs, a colourful British), which has been sustained over regatta of canoes on the Benya Lagoon and many centuries. processions. A solemn "net casting" ceremony Customery rites include the slaughter of a cow to the 77 deities in the area to obtain their blessings. symbolises the beginning of a new fishing season, and the catch is offered to the deities of the "Odambea" traditional area. Odambea is celebrated on the last Saturday of You are invited to take part in the regatta and August by the "Nkusukum" chiefs and people of the merry-making. Saltpond Traditional Area. This event commemor¬ ates the "Edina Buronya" migration of the Nkusukum people centur¬ ies This is the native version of Christmas which is ago from Techiman (500km, away) to their exclusively celebrated by the people of Elmina present settlement. Odambea means "fortified link", a name resulting (Edina) on the first Thursday of the new year. The from the role played by the Nkusukum people in festival was influenced by the Portuguese settlers who celebrated a similar event every January. keeping the migrant groups in touch with each other following their exodus from Techiman. For the people of Edina, it is a period of purification, A sacrifices to the gods, remembrance of the dead, special feature of the festival is the re-enactment of the ancient life styles of the people, which will and the welcoming of a new year. Families pour libations and invite friends to participate in dining, provide you with a unique opportunity to learn more about our and merry-making throughout the town. past. "Aboakyer" OTHER FESTIVALS THROUGHOUT THE YEAR Aboakyer literally means "game hunting". This For a complete list of other cultural events which popular festival is celebrated on the first Saturday of take place throughout the year, please contact the May by the chiefs and people of Winneba. Ghana Tourist Board in the Savoy Hotel in Cape The festival begins with a competitive hunt between Coast. The dates for some festivals vary, so the two traditional warrior groups in a nearby game Tourist Board will be happy to keep you informed.

27 Ghana - A Travel Guide

CRAFT VILLAGES Agona Swedru You will enjoy discovering the villages and the 20km north, off the Accra-Takoradi Highway at the craftsmen who produce many of the items you will Winneba Junction, is the bustling, commercial want to take home as souvenirs of your visit to the metropolis of Agona Swedru. A stroll down the main Central Region. street reveals an endless variety of tiny shops and stores full of different types of merchandise. This Winneba town is especially well known for its lively brass Stop at Ekern Ceramics showroom, located on the band groups which perform during community main road to the township. They are famous for their picnics and other celebrations. unusual and beautiful dishes, vases, decorative tiles, ashtrays, dinner sets and much more. Kromantse/Abandze These twin fishing villages, 19km from Cape Coast Gomoa-Otsew-Jukwa on the Accra-Takoradi Highway, were once import¬ About 5km from Winneba towards Cape Coast. A ant trading centres for the English and the Dutch. In village of pottery makers, who produce unglazed Abandze you can visit the site of Fort Amsterdam, black and terracotta pots and bowls, which come in which was built by the Dutch in the 17th century. a wide variety of sizes and shapes. The late, great, jazz musician, Louis Armstrong Enyam Maim traced his ancestry to this settlement, after years of 6km from Mankessim, the highly-skilled craftsmen research. of Enyan Maim produce carved wooden handicrafts Mankessim in the form of fish, animals, fruits, vegetables and Located 44km from Cape Coast, Mankessim was decorative staffs. the birthplace of the Fante nation in Ghana. The Ajumako Oware town's rich history is told in the form of statues and 30km from Mankessim, the village is the home of imaginative folk-art on the facade of the impressive renowned master craftsmen who specialise in Posuban shrine in the centre of town. If you are carved royai regalia - stools, linguistic staffs, interested in learning more about this shrine, just walking sticks, swords of state and clan totems. The ask to see Mr J. F. Baiden, the raconteur. He will tell symbolic, traditional hieroglyphs in these.carvings you all about the art and statues and their are very similar to those of ancient Egypt. meanings. The fee for his services is $300 to $500, Duakwa and Mensah Krom depending on the size of the group. Mankessim is a major commercial centre. Its 10km from Agona Swedru (en route to Akim Oda market, the largest in the Region, sells items where you can see the largest tree in West Africa) ranging from foodstuffs to clothes and traditional are a host of carvers who specialise in making utensils to craft items. The best time to visit is on traditional stools and ceremonial staffs. Depending market days - Tuesday and Thursday. on the size and type of wood used, the prices of If you are planning to stay overnight, the Royal stools range from $1,500 to $8,000. Palace Hotel is a nice, clean, budget hotel which HISTORIC TOWNS AND THEIR ATTRACTIONS charges $1,650 per night for a double room. Winneba Saltpond Traditionally known as 'Simpa' Winneba is 90km Indigenously known as "Akyemfo" this historic from Cape Coast. This historic settlement was once town is located about 30km from Cape Coast. It the country's port during the colonial era and still played an important role in Ghana's move toward remains a fishing harbour today, in fact, if you are independence. hoping to take great close-up pictures of the A lively and colourful "Odambea" festival is traditional fishing boats, the fisherfolk repairing their celebrated in Saltpond on the last Saturday of nets and little stands full of brilliantly coloured fruits August each year. and vegetables, Winneba is the right place. There is also a beautiful beach west of the township, and POSUBAN SHRINES hotel facilities in the area. A unique attraction, peculiar to the Fante communi¬ Make plans to join in celebrating "Aboakyer" in ties along the southern part of Ghana is the May, or' the unique festival of masqueraders in Posuban. "Posuban" is a combination of English January every year. and Fante words; "posu" meaning post and "ban"

28 Ghana - A TraveI Guide meaning fortification. They are the religious centres Rest House offers clean, moderately priced of the Fante military organization of warriors known accommodations. as "ASAFO". "Sa" means war, and the suffix "fo" Rates: $7,700 (Single) combines to mean warriors. $8,800 (Double) Posuban shrines are fanciful buildings, lavishly $9,900 (Suite) decorated with folk-art, emblems, and a remarkable Location: Second Ridge array of life-size statuettes. Each ornament unfolds Telephone: (042) 2594 the history, victories in battle and the general Amenities: Bar, dance floor, air conditioned rooms, military experiences of the Fantes. These shrines fans are usually located on sites where an important Cuisine: Limited food service, Ghanaian/Continental enemy was slain or a famous battle was fought. You may visit any Posuban to learn about its Pedu Holiday Inns - Pedu - This 6-room budget interesting history. It is customary to present libation hotel has a swimming pool and a pleasant outdoor (usually Peppermint Schnapps) and some token fee patio where a live band performs during holidays to the chief of the village or town where the Posuban and special events. is located. Rates: $3,300 (Single) These shrines abound in the Fanteland; there are $4,400 (Double) about a hundred in the region. Apart from those we $6,600 (Twin) have already mentioned, some other important Location: Cape Coast in the Pedu area Posuban are located in: Amenities: Air conditioned rooms, fans, TV room Anomabo, 9km east of Cape Coast Cuisine: Ghanaian/Continental Gomoa Otsew, 90km west of Accra Apam, 96km west of Accra. Oyster Bay Hotel, Elmina - Just five minutes' drive from Elmina Castle, Oyster Bay has 10 cosy, ocean-view bungalows and is known for its HOTEL FACILITIES IN CAPE COAST & ELMINA excel¬ lent seafood and spicy Hot Pot Soup. Sanaa Lodge - This charming four-room Lodge Rates: $7,700 (Double) has well-appointed guest rooms and Continental Location: Follow the on cuisine. Meals are served in the hotel dining room or signs the Accra-Takoradi on the terrace, overlooking the ocean. Highway as you approach Elmina Amenities: Bar, restaurant, beach, pool, fans, dance Rates: $22,000 (Single) floor $24,000 (Double) Cuisine: Seafood specialties, Continental/Ghanaian $28,000 (Suite)

Location: Off Cape Coast - Elmina Elmina Motel - The 67-room Elmina Motel has Telephone: (042) 2570/2391 ocean-view bungalows, and an indoor/outdoor Amenities: air-conditioned rooms, stocked fridge, restaurant where you can enjoy a relaxing view of colour TV, fans the sunset over Elmina Castle. Cuisine: Continental Rates: $9,000 (Double) Location: Old Elmina Road Dans Paradise - This 17-room hotel is located in the heart of Cape Coast, just five minutes' drive Amenities: Bar, restaurant, dance floor, fans from the town centre. Dans Paradise has a spacious Telephone: 20 (Elmina) two-storey indoor/outdoor facility for meetings and Cuisine: Ghanaian/Continental social events. Savoy Hotel - The Savoy is a 20-room budget Rates: $6,600 (Double) hotel just 5 minutes from the heart of Cape Coast. Telephone: (042) 2942 Rates: $6,600 (Double) Amenities: Bar, restaurant, air conditioned rooms, $8,000 (Suite) fans, dance floor Location: Sam Road, Cape Coast Cuisine: Ghanaian/Continental Amenities: Cocktail lounge, restaurant, air con¬ ditioned rooms, room, Catering Rest House - Located just 10 minutes fans, video terrace barTele- from Cape Coast Castle, the 13-room Catering phone: (042) 2805/2868

29 Ghana - A Travel Guide

OTHER HOTELS IN THE REGION Biriwa Beach Restaurant ANOMABU Location: 15 minutes' drive east of Cape Coast Prices: 01,200 Adaano Hotel is a 24-room budget hotel, located (Breakfast) in Anomabu. 02,500 (Lunch/Dinner) Rates: $1,650 (Single) Cuisine: German Specialties/Continental 02,200 (Double) BUDGET RESTAURANTS 03,300 (Twin) New Metropolitan 04,400 (Suite) Location: In Location: Off Accra-Takoradi Highway Cape Coast, opposite the Accra bus terminus Amenities: Bar, restaurant, fans, dance floor Prices: 0500 Cuisine: Ghanaian/Continental (Breakfast) 01,200 (Lunch/Dinner) BIRIWA Cuisine: Ghanaian/Continental Biriwa Beach Hotel is a charming, 10-room, The Hut family-owned hotel overlooking the ocean. The Location: Winneba hotel has a large restaurant, perfect for parties and Prices: $800 social events, excellent "Weiner Schnitzel", and a (Breakfast) nice stretch of private beach. It is only 15 minutes 01,500 (Lunch/Dinner) Cuisine: Ghanaian/Continental from Cape Coast. Rates: 06,000 and 012,000 ENTERTAINMENT SPOTS Location: In Biriwa off the Accra-Takoradi Highway Adam's Apple - Cape Coast - Amenities: Bar, restaurant, fans, air-conditioned This disco, behind the Kingsway Store in the heart of town, is the Telephone: 2062 (Tourist Board) "hottest Cuisine: German/Continental spot" in Cape Coast on weekends. Open at 7.00 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, Adam's Apple WINNEBA has a cocktail bar, dance floor, and plays lively Sir Charles Beach Resort African, Funk and Reggae music. Admission Fee: The Sir Charles is a 62-room beach-front hotel. The 0400. beach has a gentle surf and is popular among Casanova's international tourists. Spot - Cape Coast - This little bar, in a garden-like setting, is located near the Kingsway Rates: 02,550 - 04,000 (Single) Store in the centre of Cape Coast. Everybody loves 05,500 (Double) to dance to the Funk and African music which plays 015,000 (Chalet) Location: Beach Road, just 10 minutes from the daily, and the service is always friendly. Admission is free. Winneba Junction Amenities: Bar, restaurant, air conditioned Solace Spot - Cape Coast - This popular outdoor Cuisine: Ghanaian/Continental drinking spot is located opposite Adisadel College and serves the best Fufu in town. Both alcoholic and RESTAURANTS IN THE CENTRAL REGION non-alcoholic beverages are available, together Oyster Bay with good music. Location: On the premises of the Oyster Bay Hotel in Friends Garden - Cape Coast - A pleasant Elmina outdoor drinking spot next to the soccer stadium. It Prices: 02,500 (Lunch/Dinner) serves a variety of drinks, both with and without Cuisine: Continental/Ghanaian, Seafood Specialties alcohol, as well as snacks. Dans Paradise Location: On the premises of Dans Paradise Hotel, MEDICAL CARE Cape Coast Adequate facilities are available in the Cape Coast Cuisine: Continental/Oriental for non-critical medical attention. • Sanaa Lodge Cape Coast Central Hospital - near St Augus¬ tine's Location: In Cape Coast near St Augustine's College College, about 6 minutes' drive from the town centre. Prices: $1,500 (Breakfast) 02,500 (Lunch/Dinner) • University of Cape Coast Hospital - on campus, Cuisine: Continental about 10 minutes' drive from town.

30

Ghana - A Travel Guide

Upper: The language of the drums.

Lower: The Asantehene in state at the Festival of Adae Kese - a rare occasion when the Golden Stool is shown in public.

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33 Ghana - A Travel Guide

Views from Volta Region Above (left and right): Palm wine tappers and the mountainous scenery near Amedzofe. Photos: M.J. Watson Below: Celebrants at the Hogbetsotso festival.

34 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

CURRENCY EXCHANGE TRANSPORTATION Foreign currency can be exchanged in the following If you are planning to rent a car for the 2-hour drive places throughout the Region: between Accra and the Central Region, it is best to Cape Coast check with the Front Desk at your hotel for current rental fees. Temple Forex Bureau - opening by September, 1991, the Bureau will be located at Tantri under the Both the State Transport Corporation and the Ghana traffic signal, near the Metropolitan restaurant. Private Road Transport Union have scheduled bus Tantre Forex Bureau, near Shell Filling Station, service to the Region. In Accra, go to the Kaneshie opposite Electricity Corporation Offices. Terminus for times and fares; in Takoradi you Barclays Bank, in the heart of Cape Coast also should go to the Cape Coast terminus, which is near exchanges foreign currency. the Pioneer Tobacco Company. Komenda Taxis can be hired everywhere in the Cape Coast There is a Forex Bureau in the Akakyiman Rural and Elmina; however, they are a little difficult to find Bank. on Sunday evenings. So if you arrive at your RECREATION destination by taxi, be sure to ask the driverto return for The University of Cape Coast sports facilities and the you later. sports grounds of several secondary schools Sample fares, in a shared taxi from the centre of (Mfantsipim, Adisadel and St Augustine) have fields Cape Coast: for jogging, soccer, basketball and volleyball. to the University of Cape Coast $80 Facilities for tennis are available at the Hill Top to Elmina Township $150 Tennis Club near the Catering Rest House. Approximate non-shared, hourly rate $1,500

THE WESTERN REGION

On the southwestern shores of Ghana, nestled TOURIST ATTRACTIONS between the Gulf of Guinea and the Ivory Coast (la MANMADE Cote d'Ivoire), in the Western Region and its twin- city capital, Sekondi-Takoradi. The nucleus of this The Mines Since thriving metropolis is a modern harbour from which underground tours are limited to relatively small Ghana's principal exports of cocoa, coffee, bauxite, groups (8-10 people at a time) and special manganese and timber are shipped to world protective gear must be provided, advance reserva¬ markets. tions are necessary. Please contact the Ghana Tourist Board in These same waters which enable the Region's Takoradi for assistance. (Tel: (031) prospering commercial trade today, once, centuries 2357). ago, received European ships which arrived to trade Tarkwa Goldmines with coastal forts for gold and slaves. The Tarkwa Goldmines, 92km northwest of Takor¬ This striking contract contrast between old and new adi, were founded in the 1800's and are among the

- ancient and modern - creates the unique and oldest goldmines in the country. Above ground you interesting charm of the Western Region. It is can see the mills where the gold is extracted from reflected in a variety of unique attractions travellers the gold bearing rocks. Roaring machines grind the may visit: from gold mines to the single gauge rocks into a sand-like substance. Then water and railway to fragrant rubber plantations. chemicals are added and the solution passes over a There are also beautiful beaches, historic forts, conveyor belt. The larger gold particles are popular cultural events, a village on stilts and removed, and the remaining solution is remixed with charmed crocodiles, which will keep adventure- chemicals so that smaller gold particles can be loving travellers busy for quite some time. extracted. If your travel plans include a visit to Cape Coast or After you are fitted with protective gear, you will go Elmina in the Central Region, then you are only one underground in a small cage to one of the branch hour's drive from Takoradi via an excellent highway. tunnels. There you will proceed either on foot or in

35 Ghana - A Travel Guide small rail cars to see where the gold is dynamited Sports Club Beach - Sekondi-Takoradi from the walls of the mine. Just 2km from Takoradi's town centre, behind the After the tour, take a refreshing break at the Tarkwa Atlantic Hotel, is a lovely stretch of palm-fringed Goldmines' Canteen. There is a modest 10 room beach. The beach also has a private club with an Guest House on site and rooms run about 02,500 18-hole golf course, a tennis court, a swimming per night. pool and a club house with catering facilities. The Prestea Goldmines Although the club's facilities are reserved for 40km further north of Tarkwa are the Prestea members, visitors may make reservations in ad¬ Mines. Unlike the Tarkwa Mines, Prestea has two vance by calling: 2229 or by contacting the Ghana Tourist unique departments you will enjoy seeing: the Assay E^rd. Department where the gold is carefully evaluated for Adjua Beach purity, and the Roaster Department where the gold Located about 10km off Takoradi-Tarkwa Road, is smelted in small furnaces and the molten liquid is Adjua Beach is set in a serene atmosphere, poured into moulds to make gold bars. surrounded by lush forests. Beautiful Dadowa If you are interested in recreation, the Prestea Lagoon is within sight, just 200 meters beyond the Goldmines have two lighted tennis courts and a beach. There are also small summer huts where you challenging 18-hole golf course. A canteen, with a can relax and enjoy a picnic lunch or snacks which panoramic view of the area, serves good Continen¬ can be purchased here. tal and Ghanaian cuisine. Princesstown Beach The Nsuta Manganese Mines A 2km stretch of scenic coastline with coconut 20km southeast of Tarkwa, the Nsuta Manganese palms and virgin beaches lies 30km off the Takoradi-Elubo Mines are the third largest in the world. Here you Highway. For a little adventure, take a short walk can see open cast (rather than underground) mining along the path which runs parallel to methods in practice. Your tour will show the the beach. It leads to the Akatekyi Crocodile Pond. The Pond is exposed mineral bearing rocks, which are dyna¬ open to visitors every day except mited and then transported to the crushing plant. Wednesday. After the rock is reduced to smaller pieces it is Miamia Beach washed and foreign particles are removed. The 36km off Takoradi-Elubo Road is a secluded beach resulting manganese ore is then transported to the full of picturesque coves and rocky outcrops. There railyway where it is shipped to Takoradi for export. are three lovely, privately owned chalets (3 bed¬ The mines have a dormitory-type, modern Guest rooms each) available if you would like to stay House, two swimming pools and a 12-hole golf several nights in the area. The Ghana Tourist Board course, all of which can be enjoyed in the cool will be happy to assist you in making reservations. mountain air at Nsuta. (Tel: (031) 2357) NATURAL FORTS AND HISTORIC SITES Beaches Fort Groot Friedrichsburg - Princesstown Busua Pleasure Beach 30km off Takoradi-Elubo Highway, is Fort Groot 25 km off Takoradi-Tarkwa Road at the Agona Friedrichsburg. Built by the Prussians in 1633, it Junction is Busua Pleasure Beach. The wide golden served as the headquarters of the Brandenburg beach attracts travellers from all over the world and Africa Company, whose brief involvement on the the gentle surf makes swimming safe, even for coast lasted from 1682 to 1732. In 1716 the children. Prussians left the affairs of the Fort in the hands of Currently undergoing complete remodelling, the John Conny. He was one of the Company's most resort's chalet-style accommodation is expected to successful merchants and wielded considerable be ready for occupancy in October, 1991. An political power locally and in the interior. outdoor restaurant and bar, serving drinks and light Since the Brandenburg ships rarely visited the Fort, meals, continues to operate while the renovation Conny did a brisk trade with ships of all nations, work is being completed. offering gold and slaves at about 20% less than Why not combine a day at the beach with a quick those at other forts. As a result Groot Friedrichsburg visit to Fort Metal Cross in Dixcove; it's only 5km became the most important smuggling station on away. the Coast.

36 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

By 1718 the Dutch tried to dislodge Conny from wife. Unfortunately, he was standing on the balcony "his" Fort, but failed. In 1722 they tried negotiating when he saw the ship on the horizon which was with him, but those efforts failed too. Finally in 1724 carrying his new bride. In his excitement, he the Dutch successfully attacked and captured the accidentally lost his footing and fell - unmarried - to Fort and renamed .it Fort Hoilandia. However, the his death. Fort never regained the commercial significance it If you would like to visit nearby Bobo Ewusi Island in had enjoyed during Conny's heyday. a traditional Ghanaian fishing canoe, arrangements The Caretaker will be happy to show you the can easily be made through the Fort's Caretaker. dungeons, the Governor'? apartments and other Fort Metal Cross - Dixcove interesting aspects of the Fort. He is usually there Dixcove is only 35km from Takoradi via the every day from 8.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. There is no Takoradi-Tarkwa Highway. (Turn left at Agona formal charge for the tour. Junction). There, you will find Fort Metal Cross If you would like to take a refreshing swim after your which was built by the English to tap the flow of gold tour, follow the path from the Fort to a small foot in the Ahanta area. Construction began in 1692, but path which runs parallel to the beach. The waters proceeded slowly because the local people refused near the rocks should be avoided, because there is to assist in building it. Four years later, still usually a strong undertow. However, further down, unfinished, the Fort was attacked by the Ahanta. near the lagoon, the waters are calmer and safe for Even though the English won the battle, the victory good swimmers. did not result in the long-term rewards they had Fort St. Sebastian - Shama expected. In Shama, 20km east of Takoradi, Fort St. Sebastian The Fort remained in British hands until 1867, when was built by the Portuguese in 1562. However the it was exchanged with the Dutch as a result of an Fort never really became an important trading post. agreement between the two nations regarding the When it was captured by the Dutch in 1640 it was levy of uniform import duties. virtually in ruins. The Dutch reconstructed it and The Fort has inexpensive, dormitory-style accom¬ gave it its present form. To shore up the perpetually modations, in case you would like to spend the night sagging walls, elaborate buttresses were built here. around the structure. The tallest of these buttresses Fort Appolonia - Beyin was made into a long flight of semi-circular steps This small Fort is located 90km west of Takoradi in leading to the entrance nearest the sea, which Beyin. It was built by the English Committee of became the Fort's most characteristic feature. Merchants in 1756 and was named after the cape Although Shama was never important in the gold on which it is sited. From 1868-1872 Appolonia trade, it was well known for its trade in elaborate came under Dutch control and was renamed Fort sea-going canoes. These canoes were purchased William. by European captains who put them aboard their There are two inexpensive guest rooms in the Fort in ships to use along other less accessible parts of the case you would like to spend the night and visit the Guinean Coast. lake settlement of Nzulezo in the morning. The The Caretaker will be pleased to show you the Caretaker can make all the arrangements for you. underground passages, storerooms and the monu¬ Also in this region are Batenstein Fort in Butri, 38km ment to Dr. William Anthony Amo, Ghana's first west of Takoradi, and Fort Orange in Sekondi, 7 km philosopher. east of Takoradi, but they are not as well preserved Fort St. Anthony - Axim as those listed above. Located in Axim, 63km west of Takoradi, Fort St. Anthony was built in 1515 by the Portuguese. OTHER ATTRACTIONS Throughout its history, it was also occupied by the Dr. Kwame Nkrumah's Mausoleum - Nkroful Dutch and the British, who reconstructed it for slave 83km west of Takoradi (4km from Esiama on trading. The most interesting aspects of the Fort Takoradi-Elubo Road), is the birth place of Dr. include the dungeons, ancient mortars and pestles Kwame Nkrumah, the first President of Ghana. used to grind grains, and the Governor's tomb. A garden and monument is located in the centre of The story goes that this Governor was a bachelor town and marks the site of Dr. Nkrumah's childhood who sent word back to Portugal that he needed a home.

37 Ghana - A Travel Guide

The new Nkroful Hotel has good accommodation, Kumasi in a more exciting way, then take the train. A including a lounge and restaurant - all at very trip by train from Takoradi to Tarkwa takes two moderate prices. hours, Dunkwa takes five and Kumasi eight. The train has both First Class and Second Class seating, The Village on Stilts - Nzulezo a Bar Car and First Class and Second Class 90km west of Takoradi, and 5km north of Beyin, is Sleeping Coaches. Nzulezo, which means "surface of water". This You settlement is located on one side of Lake Tandane may buy a ticket at the railway terminal which is located near the Harbour in Takoradi. which is fed by two nearby rivers. Inhabitants of the village are said to have migrated Schedule and Fares here from Walata, a city in the ancient Ghana Takoradi to Tarkwa Empire. According to legend their ancestors were Fares: $480 (Second Class) guided to this particular spot by a snail. $670 (First Class) Nearly everything in this village on stilts takes place Departure Arrival 6.00 a.m. a.m. on or just above the water - cooking, schooling, 8.00 recreation, etc. Whenever a new baby is born, it is Noon 2.00 p.m. baptised in the lake, which is believed to be a 8.00 p.m. 10.00 p.m. protection against drowning. To protect the ecology, Takoradi to Dunkwa the local people use traditional bamboo hooks Fares: $790 (Second Class) instead of lead ones for fishing. $1,180 (First Class) The best time to visit the settlement is during the $1,780 (Sleeping/Second) rainy season (April to September). During the rest of $2,380 (Sleeping/First) the year, as the parts of the lake bed dry out, you will Departure Arrival have to walk some distance before taking a canoe to 6.00 a.m. 11.00 a.m. the village. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes that Noon 5.00 p.m. you do not mind getting wet. Nzulezo welcomes 8.00 p.m. 1.00 a.m. visitors every day except Thursday, which is a Takoradi to Kumasi sacred day. Fares: $1,310 (Second Class) The price for a canoe and oarsmen varies, but $1,900 (First Class) should be about 1,500-2,000. $2,200 (Sleeping/Second) Akatekyi Crocodile Pond $3,000 (Sleeping/First) 30km west of Takoradi, at the Akatekyi Lagoon, you Departure Arrival will find a pond where crocodiles are enticed from 6.00 a.m. 2.00 p.m. the water by the incantations of a fetish priest and Noon 8.00 p.m. the protests of a live fowl. You can observe this ritual 8.00 p.m. 5.00 a.m. every day except Wednesday (a sacred day). RECOMMENDED HOTELS

Although there is no formal admission fee, you Hotel Animens - Takoradi should bring a bottle of Schnapps for the libation Rates: $10,000-15,000 ceremony and some cedis for the cost of the fowl, Amenities: Lounge, garden bar, fridge, air condi¬ tioning, video, TV FESTIVALS Cuisine: Continential/Oriental Kundum Location: Off Dixcove Hill Round-About Kundum is celebrated from August to November by Telephone: (031)4676 the Region's coastal tribes, the Ahantas and Atlantic Hotel - Takoradi Nzemas. Beginning in August, the festival moves Rates: $8,800 (Double) west from Takoradi to town after town at weekly $11,000 (Suite) intervals. Rituals include purification of the stools Amenities: Lounge, terrace bar, restaurant, and prayers to the ancestors for a good harvest. fridge, TV, Disco, conference facilities, air Traditional drumming and dancing feature conditioning prominently. Cuisine: Continental TAKING A TRAIN Location: On Beach Road overlooking ocean If you are interested in visiting Tarkwa, Dunkwa or Telephone: (031)3300-9

38 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

Ahenfie Hotel - Takoradi Apollo "11" Hotel - Takoradi Rates: $4,450-015,500 Rates: $1,800 - $2,200 Amenities: Bar, restaurant, air conditioning, TV, Amenities: Bar Disco Location: At Apprendok, off the Takoradi- Cuisine: Continental/Ghanaian —Tarkwa Road Location: Opposite Star of the Sea Cathedral on Telephone: (031) 3771 Takoradi-Sekondi Road Valley Motel - Sekondi Telephone: (031) 2966 Rates: $1,650 - 3,300 Amenities: Bar Western Palace Hotel - Takoradi Location: At Baka Ekyir, near St. John's School Rates: $4,400 - $11,000 Amenities: Bar, restaurant, air conditioning, TV, Telephone: (031) 6666 conference facilities RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS Location: Off Dixcove Hill Round-About Shalimar Restaurant - Takoradi Telephone: (031)3601 Cuisine: Indian/Continental Prices: $2,000 (Lunch) Westline Guest House - Takoradi Hours: 11 a.m. - 11 Rates: $12,000 (Double) p.m. Location: On Dixcove Hill $15,000 (Suite) Amenities: Bar, restaurant, air conditioning, TV, Telephone: (031)4707 radio Twin City Chinese Restaurant - Takoradi Cuisine: Continental Cuisine: Chinese Location: At Tadisco Down Prices: $2,000 (Lunch, Dinner) Hours: Noon-10 Telephone: (031)4488 p.m. Location: Near Timbod BUDGET HOTELS Telephone: (031)2516 Harbour View Restaurant - Takoradi Beachway Hotel - Takoradi Cuisine: Continental/Seafood Rates: $1,500 - $2,500 Amenities: Bar, restaurant Prices: $1,800 (Lunch, Dinner) Cuisine: Continental/Ghanaian Hours: 11 a.m. -11 p.m. Location: Off Beachway Road near the ocean Location: At Takoradi Harbour Road Telephone: (031) 3576 Alor Hotel - Takoradi Carousel Restaurant - Takoradi Rates: $1,650 - $4,400 Cuisine: Continental/Ghanaian Amenities: Bar, restaurant, air conditioning, Prices: $2,500 (Lunch, Dinner) Video, conference facilities Hours: 10 a.m. - Cuisine: Continental/Ghanaian Midnight Location: Princess Cinema (First Floor) Location: At Effia, a suburb of Takoradi Siwdo Restaurant - Takoradi Telephone: (031)6985 Cuisine: Ghanaian Morning Star Guesthouse - Tarkwa Prices: $600 Rates: $3,500 - $5,500 Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Amenities: Bar, air conditioning Location: At Effia Kuma Location: Off the New Town Road Harlem Restaurant - Takoradi Telephone: Ghana Tourist Board Cuisine: Ghanaian Grace Villa Hotel - Prestea Prices: $700 (Lunch, Dinner) Rates: $1,100-$1,500 Hours: 11a.m.-9 p.m. Location: At the town centre, near the main lorry Location: Near the Bureau of African Industries station DRINKING SPOTS - SEKONDI Nkrotul Motel There are a number of drinking spots in Sekondi-

Rates: $2,500 - $3,000 Takoradi, which are normally open from 8 a.m. to Amenities: Bar, restaurant, fans 11 p.m. on weekdays. All have music that will keep Cuisine: Meals on request you on your feet. We have listed a few you may Location: In Nkroful, 4km from Esiama enjoy.

39 Ghana - A Travel Guide

Sphinx Tavern Takoradi Hospital Located 0.5km from the town centre close to Poase Provides a full range of medical services. Road. Spacious, indoor and outdoor seating, Tel No: (031) 2501 stocked with a full range of beverages. Distance from town centre - 2km The Score MARKETS AND MARKET DAYS Located in the town centre. Open to 1 a.m. on weekends. Market Circle - Takoradi Market Circle is open every day and is well Club Safari stocked with a variety of items: foodstuffs, utensils, cloth Close to the lagoon in Sekondi on Poase Road. It and household goods. Be prepared to use your stocks a variety of drinks, both domestic and bargaining power. imported. Sekondi Market Cool Spot Near Gyandu Park on Adiembra Road. Snacks Every day is market day in Sekondi. You will find a wide provided on request. range of items from foodstuffs to clothing. Agona DRINKING SPOTS - TAKORADI Market 25km north of Takoradi at Agona Junction, Ango- Harbour View Stomach Care na's market days are Wednesday and Saturday. The A spacious terrace bar overlooking Takoradi market Harbour, Stomach Care has spicey kebabs and primarily sells foodstuffs and clothing. "cool" music. The Harbour View Restaurant upstairs Bargaining ensures moderate prices. also has a bar and outdoor seating. Beposo Market Peacock Snacks Market days are Tuesday and Friday. Located on the Harbour Road near the market circle. Shopping Centre Harlem Paradise Near the Market Circle in Takoradi, prices are Located at the round-about near the main Commer¬ negotiable. cial Bank on the Harbour Road. Offers of both domestic and imported drinks. HANDICRAFTS Trade Fair Handicraft Bureau - Takoradi NIGHT CLUBS AND DISCOS Located at the Harbour Round-About near Market Ampezoo Circle, the shop has a variety of handicrafts, most of Opposite the main Commercial Bank in Takoradi on which depict Ghanaian and African culture. There is the Harbour Road. The club has good music and a also a selection of raffia furniture, carved wood wide variety of beverages. Open daily from 11 a.m. items and masks. to midnight. Entry fee: $500. Atlantic Hotel Handicrafts Ahenfie Disco Located in the Atlantic Hotel, the Handicrafts Shop Located on the premises of the Ahenfie Hotel, sells regional souvenirs. opposite the Catholic Mission on Sekondi Road. Intimate atmosphere, great mix of music. Open Yenok Handicrafts Thursday to Sunday from 8.00 p.m. to 3.00 a.m. Yenok is located on Sekondi-Takoradi Road off the Entry fee: $500. Paper Conversion Company Road, and offers a Pelican Disco variety of unique items including lampstands and Located in the Atlantic Hotel, 1.5km from the town shades, key holders and other wooden crafts. centre, the disco offers good music and your choice African Curio Handicrafts of beverages. Entry fee: $500. Open Wednesday to Located opposite the Graphic Corporation Offices, Sunday 8.00 p.m. to 3.00 a.m. about 600m from the Market Circle, African Curio HOSPITALS AND CLINICS Handicrafts sells many interesting regional souvenirs. Effia Nkwanta Hospital - Sekondi The third largest hospital in the country, provides a BANKS - TAKORADI full range of medical services. Tel No: (031)3151 National Bank of Ghana on Harbour Road in the main Commercial Bank Distance from town centre — 4km Building.

40 Ghana - A Travel Guide

Ghana - A TraveI Guide

Barclay's Bank on Harbour Road near the Main SAMPLE LORRY FARES FROM TAKORADI Post Office. to Tarkwa $500 to Elubo $950 FOREIGN CURRENCY EXCHANGE - TAKORADI to Half Assini $1,000 Esam Forex Bureau Transport Road to Axim $300 MacBab Forex Bureau near Sekondi Trotro to Shama Station $150 to Cape Coast $450 Barclays Forex Bureau Harbour Branch to Accra $950 Standard Forex Bureau Harbour Branch to Kumasi $1, 500 Social Security Bank at Mankessim House UPCOMING TOURIST ATTRACTIONS National Investment Bank near the YMCA on This is one of the only regions in the country where Harbour Road you can see tobacco being processed into cigar¬ Elubo Forex Bureau at the Lorry Station in Elubo ettes, fragrant rubber trees being tapped for their latex, huge logs being milled into boards or raw RELIGIOUS SITES - TAKORADI cocoa beans being pulverized into powder. Star of the Sea Catholic Sekondi Road opposite So the Ghana Tourist Board is in the process of Ahenfie Hotel developing some unusual and exciting plantation and factory tours we know you will really enjoy. We Trinity Presbyterian near Market Circle have listed a few of the upcoming attractions below, Bethel Methodist opposite the Police Barracks just to give you an idea of what is in store for the future. To find out more about these and other All Saints Anglican near Market Circle (also tours, located in most other towns in the Region) please contact the Ghana Tourist Board. Central Mosque behind Tarkwa Station, Cocoa Processing Takoradi Two cocoa processing factories are located in Takoradi: Cocoa Processing Company, Takoradi, Egyam Grotto in Egyam, 10km off Takoradi- and the West African Mills, where you can see how Agona-Nkwanta Road. Reportedly the site was raw cocoa beans are processed into powder and visited by angels, and their footprints still remain. A cocoa butter. grotto marks this special spot. Wood Nawule Sanctuary This Catholic sanctuary Processing There are a number of about 90km off Takoradi-Half Assini Road. It is also modern wood processing factories: John said to be the site of the apparition of the Virgin Bitar, Hardwood, WVLC and Pri- Mary. mewood, where you can see the drying and milling processes.

SAMPLE TAXI FARES FROM TAKORADI TOWN Rubber Plantation CENTRE About 28km from Takoradi, Ghana Rubber Estates These rates represent shared fares, chartered taxi Limited manages a vast rubber plantation. This fares will be higher. To hire your own taxi for 1 hour, plantation supplies 60% of the latex required locally the rate will be around $1,500. for the production of tyres and plastics. You will see to Railway Station $60 thousands of trees wearing small black cups to tap the to Sekondi $100 sap, you may learn the tapping process and how latex becomes rubber. to Effia Kuma $70 to Kwesimintsim $70 Coconut Plantation Coconut to Apremdo $80 farming is a major occupation among the Ahantas' and the Nzemas in the Region. Their to Beach Road $80 coconut palm groves stretch along the Takoradi- to New Takoradi $60 Elubo Highway and along the coast. You will to Apowa $100 discover how the local women process "copra",

45 Ghana - /I Travel Guide which is supplied to the Essiama Oil Mills for the raw materials required for the manufacture of production of coconut oil. inner tubes and tyres are produced at local rubber Oil Palm Plantation plantations. The vast 1,000 sq km Benso Oil Palm Plantation Pioneer Tobacco Company processes the fruit of the oil palm into oil, right on Pioneer is the largest cigarette factory in the the plantation premises. This oil is then sold to soap country. They produce a variety of brands like factories and local consumers. "555", Embassy, Durbar, Sandowner, and Tusker Bonsa Tyre Factory from flue or dry-cured tobacco leaf which is This is the only tyre factory in Ghana. Almost all of cultivated locally.

ASHANTI REGION

The Ashanti Region occupies a central spot on the The museum is open from 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday map of Ghana. It is a land of ancient royalty and through Friday and 2 p.m.-5 p.m. on Monday. centuries-old traditions. The capital, Kumasi, was Admission fee: $100. once the nucleus of the Asante kingdom and was the geographic meeting point of two powerful Cultural Crafts Centre trading systems - the Sudanic empires across the A visit to the Crafts Centre is a special experience. Sahara to the north, and the gold mining Kwaman One will see local carvers, brass smiths, kente forest region which traded to the south with weavers, sculptors, basket weavers, adinkra textile Europeans on the Coast. Established by King Osei printers, and potters at work and even take lessons Tutu in 1695, Kumasi was connected by royal roads in these crafts at the Centre for a modest fee, and paths to all the leading provinces beyond the For souvenirs, the Gift Shop has a vast selection of "Kingdom of Gold". leather-work, carvings, handmade kente and Named after the Garden City because of its tree- adinkra cloth, raffia items and artwork to choose lined streets and public flower gardens, Kumasi has from. a special attraction for tourists because of its martial history and culture of the gold trade. One can reach "Anokyekrom" Kumasi from Accra and other cities by air, but it is This Is a weekly cultural spectacle which includes preferable to come by car, bus or rail in order to drumming, dancing, drama, poetry recitals, gospel enjoy the tropical forests and picturesque villages and choral music. Anokyekrom is a popular week¬ along the way. end diversion for everyone. You are expected to join in the dancing. The hours are 2 p.m.-7 p.m, TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Saturdays only. The admission fee is $200. CULTURAL Resident Folkloric Troupe The Cultural Centre With advance reservation, the Centre's Folkloric The Centre is located In the heart of the city and Troupe will entertain you with a variety of Ghanaian offers a variety of special historic and cultural music and dance. The troupe also includes a attractions. resident fetish priest. Prempeh II Jubilee Museum Lessons In drumming, dancing, cloth draping, This is a museum of Ashanti royalty and history, pottery making, textile weaving, brass-smithing and basket where you will be brought face to face with royal weaving are available. For reservations call: paraphernalia crafted in gold, and mementoes of 2825, 5558, 2421. the wars that created the extensive Ashanti king¬ Model Ashanti dom, including the Golden Stool, the Brass Pan of Village Independence which caused the 1697-1699 war Visit a model Ashanti village complete with an between the Ashantis and their Denkyira overlords, authentic fetish house, "nkwankwanua" shade tree, famous royal battle garb, and an outstanding cocoa farm, rural traps and a palm wine bar, The collection of historic photographs. palm wine is least potent from 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

46 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

Other Services If you are looking for hand-made or machine-made - Drinking Bar and Tea Shop textiles, beads, herbal preparations, food, or cos¬ - Camping facilities metics, then you have come to the right place. The - The Ashanti Library market is open throughout the week from 6 a.m.-6 - Tourist Information Office p.m.

- Offices of the National Archives Manhyia Palace

- Offices of the Museums & Monuments Board Manhyia Palace, the residence of the Kings of (to certify souvenir cultural items to be taken Ashanti since 1924, is also nearby. The palace out of Ghana) complex consists of the old palace, the new palace Kumasi Zoo (1970), the King's courts, the Queen Mother's Adjacent to the Cultural Centre is the Kumasi Zoo. Palace, Secretariats and an Institute of Ashanti The atmosphere is relaxing and there is a good Studies. It is open throughout the week and can be variety of animals, including: lions, elephants, toured with the permission of the Public Relations primates, reptiles and birds. Admission fee: $100. Officer. Okomfo Anokye Sword Site Once every six weeks, there is "Adae" festival at the Just behind the Okomfo Anokye Hospital one will palace when the King turns out in all his golden find the Okomfo Anokye Sword. It is named after a regalia. famous traditional priest who, in the 17th century, University of Science and Technology was said to have conjured the Golden Stool from the Visit the University of Science and Technology, a sky. beautiful seven square-mile campus housing some Legend states that as high priest of the Akan four thousand students of both sexes. Interesting kingdoms, he drove his sword into the ground with places on campus include the College of Art, the such force that it has remained there ever since, Swimming Pool and the adjoining University Botan¬ marking the site of the new imperial city, Kumasi, ical Garden. The Olympic-size Swimming pool which unified the Akan kingdoms. The site is opens at 2 p.m.-5 p.m. daily. revered by all as a sacred shrine. Admission fee: $500.00. Kumasi Fort and the Armed Forces Museum Streetside Native Sandal Makers A red brick fortress, opposite the Central Post Office Along the Northern perimeter of the Central Market marks the former site of the palace of the Ashanti on the way to Manhyia Palace, you can observe kings, which was sacked and destroyed in 1896, Ashanti Craftsmen producing exquisite and colour¬ when Kumasi was burned to the ground. ful Ashanti native sandals. You are welcome to try Shortly thereafter, stones from the palace walls some of them on. were used to construct Fort George, Ghana's only Kumasi Magazine inland fort, Today this fort serves as a military At Suame can be found Kumasi Magazine, a vast museum with exhibits from the Ashanti wars, the area for auto mechanical workshops where Ashanti two World Wars, the Congo crisis of the early 60's, engineering ingenuity can be found at its best. Here, and Ghana's post-independence military history. every conceivable mechanical fault on all makes of Exhibits include antique guns of various makes, vehicles are fixed through perfect improvisation that photographs and paintings, flags and uniforms. baffles modern engineers. The museum is open from 9 a.m.-2 p.m. every day except Sunday. Pankronu Admission fee: $200. Four kilometres north of Kumasi on Mampong Road, Pankronu is the home of Kumasi Central Market pottery. Women turn out Not far from Kumasi Fort, through the bustling exquisite clay pots, earthenware bowls, and water commercial centre of Adum, you will find the Central jugs, without resorting to the use of a potter's wheel. All their wares are fired in traditional kilns. Market. The largest in West Africa, this market is enlivened by the din of traders advertising their (The village of Atari, 12km on Nkawie Road also has wares and the colourful mix of merchandise. You good potters). can buy everything and anything through lively Ahwiaa bargaining with market women, whose straw hats Eight kilometres further on Mampong Road is are a metre wide. Ahwiaa, where the famous Ashanti stools and

47 Ghana - A Travel Guide fertility dolls are produced. At the carving sheds, deal of the mining activities take place above ground one can observe craftsmen creating impressive and thus can be easily observed. Underground tours carvings from solid blocks of wood. These skilful can also be arranged with advance reservation. carvers also produce masks, symbolic figures, bone Contact the Ghana Tourist Board for assistance, Tel: and ivory beads and walking sticks. There are (051) 6243. Public Relations manager, Ashanti several shops stocked to the brim with carvings, Goldfelds Co., Obuasi: (0582) 265,503,405. presenting a wide selection of gift items. (Ofoase on Note: Good quality gold can be legally purchased at Trabuom Road is also noted for carvings). Diamond House, Accra.

Ntonso NATURAL Proceeding another 10km on the Mampong Road, Owabi Bird Sanctuary the visitor will find Ntonso, where the hand-printed The Owabi Bird Sanctuary is just 15km from "adinkra" cloth is produced. It is very interesting to Kumasi. It is a winter home for a variety of migratory see the various stages that go into the production of birds as well as tropical birds who live there year an adinkra cloth. These processes include the round. brewing of dyes from the roots and barks of the Lake Bosomtwe "badie" tree, special dyeing procedures, needle If you are looking for peace and serenity, you will be embroidery and the actual printing of "adinkra delighted with Lake Bosomtwe. Believed to have symbols" onto the fabric with adinkra stamps. The been formed by a falling meteorite, this large, end result is quite breathtaking. circular lake nestles in a crater 364 feet above sea While generally the adinkra cloth is used for level, which is surrounded by mountains. One can funerals, the white, yellow, blue and green types descend into the crater by road to visit the fishing may be used for social occasions. You can buy villages around the Lake and it's also fun just to sit adinkra cloths from the craftsmen themselves and watch the fisherfolk paddling their carved through the same lively bargaining that leaves both "plank" boats with palm oars. If you are planning to buyer and seller satisfied. spend the day at Lake Bosomtwe, be sure to pack a Bonwire picnic lunch. The Lake is accessible from Abonu and can be Twenty kilometres northeast of Kumasi is Bonwire, reached by taking a bus or taxi from the Asafo the home of Kente, where the colourful, world- Market in Kumasi. famous kente cloth is woven on traditional Ashanti looms. Bonwire can be reached by bus or taxi from Traditional Shrines the station in Kumasi near the Manhyia Palace. Traditional shrines are the provinces of fetish priests When you arrive at the village the first thing you will and priestesses. These places of worship and hear are the musical sounds of the looms, comple¬ religious rituals can be found in any of the following mented by the lusty singing of the craftsmen. villages: Thread spinners, hundreds of colourful shuttles and Abirem 12km on Kumasi-Bonwire Road sturdy looms clutter the homes and spill out onto Ejisu Besease 20km on the Kumasi Accra Road verandas and open spaces of the village. Kentinkronu near Kumasi University Kente comes in two distinct textures: single-weave Patakro 35km on Obuasi Road (light) and double-weave (thick and heavy). Simple, During "Adae" festivals there are religious observ¬ single weave pieces are less expensive. There are a ances at all shrines in Ashanti. You are welcome to wide range of designs, from simple to very complex. visit the shrines but be sure to take along a Kente is worn for ceremonial occasions. traditional gift for the priest or priestess. (A bottle of The weavers sell their own kente and there are also Peppermint Schnapps is the libation preferred by several shops which offer a good selection of cloth. our ancestors). All prices are, of course, subject to bargaining. FESTIVALS Obuasi Adae and Akwasidae Look for the world's single richest gold mine, in the The pomp and pageantry of the Ashanti kingdom is town of Obuasi, 50km southwest of Kumasi. This most vividly brought to life during beautiful Adae "level and shaft" mine can be toured on foot. A great festivals which are held at the palace once every six Ghana - A TraveI Guide

weeks. These are occasions when the King, riding in Rose's Guest House a palanquin and adorned with all his gold orna¬ Rates: $15,500 ments, comes out to receive the homage of his sub- Location: Ridge on the Nhyiaeso Road chiefs and people. It is a spectacular sight to watch Amenities: Restaurant, bar, Forex Bureau the colourful canopies and umbrellas, the skillful Cuisine: Continental/Ghanaian drummers, dancers, horn-blowers and praise- Telephone: (051) 4072 singers at these regular festivals, held in honour of Cicero Guest House our ancestral spirits. Rates: $16,500—$18,700 Time your visit to coincide with an Akwasidae Location: Ahodwo festival, (Sunday Adae). You can determine the Amenities: Restaurant, bars Akwasidae dates by counting six weeks down the Telephone: (051) 4473 calendar from one Adae. For example, in 1991 the Hotel La Sab dates are: January 6, February 17, March 31, May Rates: $5,500—$11,000 12, June 23, August 4, September 15, October 27, Location: Kwadaso Agricultural College December 8. Amenities: Restaurant, bar, open air garden Cuisine: Continental/Ghanaian FUNERALS BUDGET HOTELS IN KUMASI Ashantis celebrate funerais on Saturday afternoons. Justice Hotel After the burial, there is a large gathering of Rates: $2,750—$4,400 mourners and sympathizers dressed in the red and Location: Amakom (traffic light) black garb of mourning. There is always lively Amenities: Bar, Restaurant drumming and dancing to "adowa", "kete" (the Telephone: (051)2525 royal dance) and "nwomkro" chorais. Confidence Hotel At large funerals, Adosoa is a display of special Rates: $3,000 respect for the dead, consisting of a procession of Location: Asokwa nine-year-old girls ornately dressed in masses of Amenities: Bar, Dining Room gold and aggrey beads and silk loin cloths. They are Timber Hotel followed by adolescent young women, equally richly Rates: $2,200 dressed in kente cloth, gold and aggrey beads. Location: Asokwa Behind them come female carriers bearing gifts of Amenities: Garden Bar textiles, drinks, gold beads and breastplates, Telephone: 4803 sandals and, occasionally, a live sheep. A band of Ashford Court Hotel kete drummers follow the maidens who dance the Rates: $4,850—$6,600 graceful kete steps as the procession goes round Location: Bantama the funeral grounds. Amenities: Restaurant, Bar Telephone: 2217, 2919 SELECTED HOTELS - KUMAS! Ducor Palace Hotel City Hotel Rates: $2,750-$3,500 Rates: $16,170-1(11,220 Location: Abrepo Junction Amenities: Location: Ridge Restaurant, Bar Amenities: Restaurant, bar, gift shop, supermarket, Telephone: 5576, 4667 disco, travel agency Hotel De Kingsway Telephone: (051)2393-8 Rates: $3,819—$5,182 Location: Adum Hotel Georgia Amenities: Restaurant, Bar Rates: $13,400-18,500 Stadium Hotel Location: Adiebeba Rates: $3,960—$6,600 Amenities: Restaurant, bar Location: Asokwa, near Sports Stadium Telephone: (051)3911,3915, 4154 Amenities: Bar, Restaurant Telex: (2480) Telephone: 3647, 6374

49 Ghana - A Travel Guide

Kings Hotel Drinking Spot: Timber Gardens Rates: $3,300, 05,500, 06,600, 08,800 Location: Timber Hotel, Asokwa Location: Ahodwo Drinking Spot: Cultural Centre Bar Amenities: Restaurant, Bar, Meeting Hall Location: Cultural Centre Telephone: 4490 Drinking Spot: Catering Rest House Hotel La Belle Location: Ridge Rates: 03,300, 04,400, 05,500 Drinking Spot: The Sphinx Location: Asokwa Location: Adum, opposite Hotel De Kingsway Amenities: Bar, Restaurant Drinking Spot: Justice Hotel Bar Ask Guest House Location: Justice Hotel, Amakom Rates: 07,700, 09,900 LEADING NIGHT CLUBS Location: North Kwadaso Hotel De Kingsway Club - "Old Timers' Club" Telephone: (051) 6011 Located on the hotel premises. Specializes in old SELECTED RESTAURANTS IN KUMASI highlife and western tunes on Saturday evenings. Restaurant: Chopsticks Fox Trap Night Club Location: Nhyiaeso Located at the Amakom Round-About. Cuisine: Chinese Maxima Night Club Located in Ayigya on the premises Restaurant: Roses Guest House of the Maxima Guest House. Location: Nhyiaso Cuisine: Continental Palm Spring Restaurant & Night Club This open-air club is located in the Prempeh Restaurant: Cicero Guest House Assembly Hall. Location: Ahodwo Nsadwase Disco Cuisine: Continental Located on the premises of the City Hotel. Restaurant: OTS Club Oma-Ra OTS Club Oma-Ra Location: Adum The club is located in Adum, opposite UTC. Cuisine: Ghanaian/Continental Dim-Lite Restaurant: Family Restaurants Located in Adum. Location: Adum MAJOR BANKS IN KUMASI Cuisine: Lebanese Ghana Commercial Bank, Adum, opposite High BUDGET RESTAURANTS IN KUMASI Court. Restaurant: Jofel Barclays Bank, Prempeh II Street. Location: Asokwa Standard Chartered Bank, Harper Road, Adum. Cuisine: Ghanaian/Continental FOREIGN CURRENCY EXCHANGE Restaurant: Cameo Johnson's Forex Bureau, Amakrom Round-About. Location: Adum Keurose Forex Bureau, Rose's Guest House. Cuisine: Continental Yapo Forex Bureau, Prempeh II Street, Adum Sweat Restaurant: Abotare Ye Money Forex Bureau, Manhyia, near Manhyia Palace. Location: Adum WestPac Forex Bureau, in Adum, opposite the Cuisine: Ghanaian Railway Shed. Restaurant: Date-In MAJOR HOSPITALS/CLINICS IN KUMASI Location: Amakom Komfo Cuisine: Ghanaian/Continental Anokye Teaching Hospital, Bantama, Tel: (051) 2301 DRINKING SPOTS - KUMASI Bomso Clinic, in Bomso near the University. These are only a few of the many spots in Kumasi Kuffuor Clinic, Prempeh II Street, Adum, Tel: (051) where you can stop and enjoy a drink and join in a 2270 lively atmosphere of high-life music and friendly University Hospital, University of Science & conversation. Technology.

50 BRONG AHAFO REGION

The Brong Ahafo Region is divided into two major village of Nsuta. There a type of coarse jute-like climatic zones: the southwest sector, which lies in cloth called Kyenkyen is produced from the bark of a the rain belt, and the northeast sector situated in the tree by the same name. It is fascinating to watch the savanna belt. cloth-making process of this special fabric that was People in this region are Akans. They are principally worn in ancient times, long before the introduction farmers and raise important cash crops such as of machine-made textiles. cocoa, yams and maize. It rains about nine months The Boabeng-Fiema Monkey Sanctuary year hence the soil is rich and during the productive. Plan a visit to the Monkey Sanctuary at Fiema, Brong Ahafo is therefore often referred to as the which is just 22km north of Nkoransa. Colobus "Bread Basket" of Ghana. monkeys with black silky fur, cute white noses and SUNYANI - THE CAPITAL long curly tails are everywhere, as well as the light Sunyani is a well-planned city with an idyllic brown, mischievous Mona monkeys. They are an environment. It is a pleasant change from the hustle enchanting sight. and bustle of larger, more congested cities like Held sacred by the people of Boabeng and Fiema, it Accra and Kumasi. Once a week, Ghana Airways is a taboo to kill a monkey. The Government has also provides a scheduled air service from Accra to taken steps to protect their habitat and to guard Sunyani. against poachers. (The Mona is a worldwide If you have planned a visit to the Ashanti Region, endangered species.) then Brong Ahafo would be an easy addition on your Try to arrive in the villages before 9.00 a.m., when travel circuit. Sunyani is just one and one-half you will find the monkeys arriving for breakfast. hours' drive from Kumasi via one of the country's Then they go to the school yard to play! This highways. phenomenon happens every day. For many gener¬ The Fiema Monkey Sanctuary, Kintampo Waterfalls ations the villagers have encouraged this har¬ and Techiman, the birthplace of the Akan civiliza¬ monious blend between man and nature by giving tion, are located along the main highway leading the monkeys access to ali parts of the village. They into Brong Ahafo. have even planted fruit-bearing trees the monkeys Techiman enjoy. When one dies, it is buried in a coffin and special funeral rites are performed. Techiman is 60km northeast of Sunyani by way of a Entry to the sanctuary is free for tourists. However, somewhat bumpy, yet passable, road. It is believed there is a small fee charged for taking pictures. that this was the birthplace of the Akan. The legend Those who intend to observe and study these is supported by pre-historic evidence discovered in primates are also charged a fee. the area. These relics are now preserved in the Chief's palace. Kintampo Waterfalls Take the The town comes alive on market days (Wednesday highway from Techiman, 75km north to through Friday), when people arrive to sell their Kintampo. There you will find the beautiful waterfalls where the water flows from the falls and then wares. You will enjoy this typical market scene. The Tano River flows through Techiman, and you disappears underground and resurfaces 200 metres may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of one of away. the river's large sacred fish, which are said to have Yeji Port golden crowns. Yeji is one of the many beautiful scenic attractions in About 6km beyond the city is the town of Ghana. It is a small fishing port located on the banks Tuobodom. The Catholic Monastery is the only one of the Volta Lake and is accessible by road as well of its kind in Ghana, and may be visited by as by boat from Akosombo. appointment. The Catholic Church also has a grotto Kwaku Fri Shrine at Asuoeye (about 6km from Techiman). The shrine is located in Nwoase, a village some 6km TOURIST ATTRACTIONS from Wenchi. Right in the centre of Nwoase is a Traditional Cloth-making in Boama mighty Odum tree. This marks the shrine, which is About 20km from Techiman, on the Sunyani- only accessible on Wednesdays and Sundays. On Techiman Road, is the traditional cloth-making those days the traditional priest performs cures for

51 Ghana - A Travel Guide ailments, divinations and pours libation. People who in the courtyard. The Dormaas are reputed to have are not cured on the spot are admitted to a native brought fire to Ghana and this legend is symbolically hospital, equipped with wards and consulting remembered through this bonfire. A durbar is also rooms. The best time to visit the shrine is held, during which homage is paid to the Paramount November, when the Apoo festival is celebrated. Chief by his sub-chiefs and subjects. It is a Hani Archaeological Site period when all descendants of the original Dormaas away 50km from Wenchi is Hani, one of the best (who broke from the Akwamus and documented archaeological sites in Ghana. Accord¬ migrated here) come home to a grand reunion. Like ing to experts from the University of Ghana who Apoo, this festival fosters a spirit of unity among the have been conducting research here, this site is people. believed to have been inhabited by the Beghos in Highlights of the activities include a pageant of the 1200 B.C. One can still see the ancient caves as royal courts with drumming, dancing and a display of the rich well as Stone Age tools such as hammers, cutting paraphernalia of the Chiefs. blades and grinding stones. HOTELS IN SUNYANI Mim Catering Rest House The only industrial centre in the entire Region is Rates: from $7,000, double located in Mim, some 50km southwest of Sunyani. Cuisine: Continental Mim is situated in the heart of a dense tropical forest Location: On the Airport Road which provides trees for one of Ghana's largest Telephone: 7280 timber firms, the Mim Timber Company. Besides its value as an export, the timber from the forest Tropical Hotel provides raw materials for another important com¬ Rates: $500 upwards pany, Scanstyle Mim, which exports collapsible Location: On the Kumasi-Sunyani Road furniture. Telephone: 7179 When visiting Mim you will notice two rocky hills Comments: Meals available called Mim Buor. They are a fetish to the people at Atekyem Buor and Mim. On a nearby hill is a private South Ridge Hotel resort complex. It has lovely gardens, an orchard Rates: $6,000 to $8,000 swimming pool, and a bar. From the siimmit you Amenities: Video, refrigerator available have a panoramic view of the plantation and Location: On Fiapre Road opposite the Forestry surrounding areas. School FESTIVALS Telephone: 7077 Apoo Comments: Meals available on request

Apoo is celebrated in Techlman and Wenchi in RESTAURANTS IN SUNYANI November. It is a festival for the purification of the people to rid them of social evil. The festival lasts Tata Restaurant Prices: $600 to $1,000 one week and includes a variety of traditional Cuisine: Ghanaian cultural activity. It ends on the sixth day with the Location: Near Apoo procession, when insinuations are cast about Sunyani Central Hospital the evil doings of some of the citizens. Even the Alleb Catering Services Chief is not spared. This period is a time for family Prices: $300 to $2,000 reunions and unity among the people. You are Cuisine: Continental/Ghanaian welcome to join in the festivities. Location: Sunyani Airport Kwafie The people of Dormaa Ahenkro, Berekum and NIGHT LIFE IN SUNYANI Nsuatre celebrate the Kwafie festival between Red Top November and December. This event is celebrated For night life we recommend a visit to Red Top. This in remembrance of the ancestors and it is also large night club provides live music for dancing. The meant as purification. Among the many activities club is open from 8.00 p.m. to midnight on Saturday the most interesting is the burning of a large bonfire only. Admission fee: $200.

52 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

Above: The Paga Crocodile Pond, Upper East Region.

Below: Mole National Park, Damongo, Northern Region.

53 Ghana - A Travel Guide

Above: Mole National Park. Antelope, leopard, lion, elephant and monkeys are among the animals to be seen in their natural habitat.

Below: Lush, exotic, tropical vegetation.

54 Ghana - A Travel Guide

55 Ghana - A Travel Guide Ghana - A Travel Guide

Tropical hotel Disco Nyame Nnae Lodge If you feel like dancing on a Friday night, try the Rates: $1,500 to $2,500 Tropical Hotel Disco, It is open from 8.00 p.m. to Location: Opposite the Agricultural Development midnight. Admission fee: $200. Bank on Kintampo Road HOTELS IN TECHIMAN Comments: Meals on request Agyeiwaa Memorial Hotel Rates: $3,000 to $5,000 MEDICAL SERVICES Cuisine: Continental/Ghanaian Sunyani Location: In the city centre opposite the lorry park The Regional Hospital located in the centre of Comments: a good base if you plan to visit nearby town. attractions The Police Clinic on Airport Road. St. Michael's Lodge Rates: $1,500 to $2,500 Techiman Location: Behind the District Assembly Holy Family Hospital on Kintampo Road.

VOLTA REGION

The Volta Region with its Capital, Ho, lies to the east flock here on weekends and holidays to catch Large of Ghana, sharing borders with the Republic of Mouth Bass, Barracuda, Tarpon and Horse Mack¬ Togo. It is named after the Volta River. Known as the erel. Swimming, water skiing and yachting are also region of contrasts, the Volta Region has the lowest popular pastimes. point in Ghana - the Keta Lagoon basin - lying Beaches below sea level — and the highest point - Mount The Volta Region has an extensive 60km coastline Afadjato, 2905 ft above sea level. The Region which reaches from the Estuary to Aflao, on the extends from the Atlantic Coast to the fringes of the eastern border with Togo. Coconut palms shade the Savanna grassland northwards. sandy beaches; however, the sea is generally rough. Swimming is safe in the shallow waters of TOURIST ATTRACTIONS the estuary or at Woe NATURAL Cape St. Paul Beach, (near Keta), Dzelukopoe and Denu (near Aflao). Please Volta Lake bring your own picnic lunch as restaurant facilities The Volta Lake is one of the largest artificial lakes in are not yet available. the world. Rich in fresh water fish, like the Nile Keta Perch, the Lake offers challenging opportunities for Lagoon Keta anglers. Lagoon, the largest lagoon in Ghana, is a For those who wish to cruise, the Volta Lake, with its geographical miracle. Its brackish waters provide conditions for surroundings of verdant landscape and rolling hills, angling, and its tiny islands have become bird sanctuaries is an ideal vacation spot. From the southern port of ("Xevikpodzi"). This is a Akosombo, where the Volta Dam is located, to the special attraction for bird watchers and ornithologists. northern port of Buipe, the cruise passes pictures¬ que islands and numerous fishing and farming Avatime Hills villages. The Avatime Hills are located about 240km north¬ east of Accra. Here Lower Volta Estuary you can enjoy a cool climate and a panoramic view of the Volta Lake. The Estuary is an area of great scenic beauty. In the Estuary proper, where the river enters the sea Tafl Monkey Village (between Azizanya and Azizanu), extensive sand About 220km northeast of Accra, near the bars have formed and have become the nesting Avantime Hills, are sacred monkey sanctuaries. grounds of numerous sea birds. Hundreds of species of monkeys, including the Due to the abundance of plankton, the estuary is nearly extinct Mona, make the dense tropical forest always teeming with fish. Anglers and fisherfolk around Tafi Atome their home. The monkeys are

57 Ghana - A Travel Guide friendly and playful and venture into the village daily. Limestone features of Nyagbo and Logba Tradition does not permit people to kill or harm These two towns are about 30 minutes from Hohoe. them. There you will find some interesting limestone formations, including underground caves which are Afadjato Mountain full of stalagmites and stalactites. The highest mountain in Ghana is Afadjato, which Ancestral Caves of rises 2,905 feet above sea levei. Located along the Likpe The east border with Togo, some 40km east of Hohoe, it is an Likpe Traditional Area lies 15km of Hohoe. attraction for climbers. The inhabitants claim their ancestors lived in caves in the area, and archaeological discoveries such as Tagbo Falls broken pots, grinding stones and beads have been At Liati Wote, in a dense tropical forest, is a unearthed, which support their claims. These perennial waterfall called Tagbo. There is a beautiful ancestral caves are a must for the adventurous cave at the base of the falls, where the waters tourist. plunge into a pool. The Grottos at Kpando two Wii Waterfalls Kpando has grottos. The first belongs to the Catholic Church and is located at Agbenohoe, Wli Falls are situated in the heart of a tropical forest, where there is a huge statue of the Virgin Mary. 20km from Hohoe. Wli is the highest waterfall in Many Christians, especially Catholics, go to this Ghana and is fed year-round by the waters of the shrine on pilgrimages. Agumatsa River. Reaching the falls is fun and The second grotto is a Kpando Aziavi, which is one adventure-filled. You must cross eleven log bridges and a half kilometres east of Kpando. it is a non- which span the meandering river before arriving at denominational shrine and is administered by the the falls. Besides the spectacular view, your reward Blue Uzs Society. is the brisk, refreshing water which is great for Both grottos are open to visitors all year round. swimming and makes an excellent natural cooler for Tsatsadu Waterfall your beer. Thousands of bats make their home in Alavanyo Abehenease, only 10km from Hohoe, is among the cliffs which surround the falls. If you are the extremely beautiful Tsatsadu Waterfall which, coming from Accra, the drive to Wii takes about unlike other falls in the Region, cascades down a three hours. hill.

Kalakpe Game Production Reserve Ancient Guan Civilizations - Likpe, Nyagbo, At Abutia Kloe, about 15km from Ho, the Kalakpa Avatime, Akpafa, Lolobi, Nchumuru These Game Production Reserve has been described as groups of people all belong to the Guan the last habitat of wildlife in the Volta Region. The language group and were reportedly the original inhabitants of Ghana. The Guan civilization area is rich in birds, including francolins, kingfishers pre¬ dates the and swallows and others which migrate from Akan, Ewe, Ga and the various tribes of the Western Europe during the winter. The primary Northern, Upper East and Upper West Regions. animal species include buffalo, kob, bush-bucks They have their own distinct languages, festivals and cultures and are and monkeys. Snails and bees, known for the great traditionalists, if you would like an delicious honey they produce, also abound in the impression of the ancient civilization, a area. trip to these villages near the hills of Hohoe would be worthwhile. The Reserve is currently under development and Dr. Naomesi's Herbal camping sites are planned for the future. From Treatment and Research Centre Juanpong (on the Ho-Accra Road), you can reach This Centre the Reserve by taking a short cut through Kokode. specialises in the use of herbal remedies which are scientifically prepared and The Akpafu Iron Works tested in the Centre's Laboratory. The Centre is The people of Akpafu undertake the extraction of recognized by UNESCO, OAU, the University of iron, using traditional methods which have been Science and Technology in Kumasi and the Univer¬ carefully passed down through the ages. They are sity of Cape Coast. It has a consulting pharmacolo¬ skilful iron-smiths and produce very good quality gist and sample preparations are sent to Geneva for guns. laboratory testing.

58 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

The Centre's preparations are used to treat a variety part still remains to testify to the role it played in the of ailments including: infertility in both men and days of the slave trade. women, jaundice, diabetes, snake bites, baldness, etc. Cape St. Paul Light House - Woe Anyone in need of nature's own medicines, which There is an 18th century lighthouse at Cape St. have no side effects, should visit this interesting Paul, just west of Keta. The lighthouse guides ships Centre. sailing along the west coast of Ghana, and helps Kente-Krachi Settlement them to avoid what is believed to be a massive underwater mountain Kente-Krachi, located on the northern reaches of ridge just a few kilometres off shore. the Volta Lake, is a town steeped in history. It was once the main terminus of the caravan route which carried goods and slaves from the north. From there FESTIVALS the slaves were transported by boat down the then Hogbetsotso Festival free-flowing Volta River. The Anlo Ewes, an ethnic group on the eastern due to the creation of the Volta Lake, Unfortunately, coast of Ghana, are believed to have settled in only three original buildings remain of this ancient Notsie in Togo when they first migrated from town. The works of Alhaji Oumarou Titibrika, southern Sudan. Legend has it that they escaped founder of one of the oldest Moslem Universities in from the tyrannical ruler of Notsie, Ago-Koli, by the West African sub-region, have been recovered walking backwards. and are now on museum, display in the in Ho. His In order to commemorate the exodus and the translation of the Holy Koran into Hausa has also bravery of their traditional rulers who led them on been preserved. the journey, the people created this annual "Festival In Kente-Krachi you will also find Krachi-Dente, a of the Exodus". powerful deity. Those afflicted with all types of There are many ceremonies associated with the diseases used to consult the deity for solutions to festival, including a peace-making period where all their problems. A shrine to Krachi-Dente is still open outstanding problems are supposed to be resolved. to those who are interested. This is a purification ceremony of the traditional Do not forget that the Volta Lake Transport has stool and a period of general cleaning when the weekly cruises on the River from Akosombo to villages are swept and rubbish burnt. This cleaning Kente-Krachi. ceremony begins at the Volta Estuary and goes on for days until it finally reaches the Mono River in the HISTORIC Republic of Benin. Ancient German Relics An essential aspect of the festival is a durbar of The Germans once ruled the northern half of what is Chiefs and the people. Chiefs dress in very colourful now known as the Volta Region. Their rule ended regalia and sit in state to receive homage from their with the conclusion of World War II in 1945. Many subjects. Dancing, singing and general merry¬ German relics may still be found in Kpando, Adaklu, making go on throughout the festival. The main Kete-Krachi and Ho, the former seat of the German durbar always takes place on the first Saturday of Colonial Administration. November in Anloga, 15km west of Keta, a two and In Kpando there is a massive stone house on a hill a half hour drive from Accra. top, which is now a private residence. There is a mud building at Abutia Agove which was once used Agumatsa Waterfalls Festival as a retreat by the former Governor-General. And at This festival is celebrated in November by the Kete-Krachi there is a military camp site made of people of the Wli Traditional Area. They give thanks metamorphic rocks. to God for giving them the Wli Waterfalls, since its Fort Prinzenstein waters are used for practically all domestic Although there are numerous forts and castles purposes. along the coast of Ghana, Fort Prinzenstein in Keta There is dancing during the durbar, which usually is the only fort east of the Volta River. Though this starts at mid-day and officially ends around 5.00 massive structure is partially in ruins, a significant p.m.

59 Ghana - A Travel Guide

MARKETS Matvin Hotel - Hohoe Here is a list of interesting markets you will enjoy. On the eastern bank of the Dayi River, one and a half Prices as usual are subject to bargaining. kilometres from the centre of Hohoe town, is the Matvin Hotel. It has 25 Town Agbozume rooms, including two chalets, each with private bath and toilet. There is a Market Days Every 5 days well-landscaped, relaxing waterfront area which Specialties Kente, foodstuffs hotel guests will enjoy. Rates: $3,300 (Single), Town Akatsi $4,400 (Double) and $8,000 (Chalet). Tel: (091) Market Days Every 5 days 210 Specialties Foodstuffs Woezor Hotel - Ho Town Ho The Woezor Hotel has 38 rooms including 12 Market Days Every 5 days chalets. The hotel operates a good restaurant which Specialties Foodstuffs serves Ghanaian and Continental cuisine. Rates: $5,000 or $7,000 Town Hohoe (Chalets). Tel: (091) 534. Market Days Daily BUDGET ACCOMMODATIONS Specialties Food, assorted goods E.P. Social Centre - Ho Town Kpando Tokor This hotel is located at the eastern end of Ho. The Market Days Every 5 days complex has a restaurant noted for excellent Specialties Fish, foodstuffs Ghanaian and Continental cuisine. The 12-room hotel has well-appointed rooms with private bath HANDICRAFT VILLAGES and toilet. It also has a hostel that can accommo¬ Town Agbozume date 15 people. Rates: $3,500.

Specialties Kente (beautiful hand-woven cloth) Makavo Hotel - Aflao Town Alavanyo The Makavo has 20 rooms, each with private bath and toilet and hot and cold Specialties Gun-smithing. The villagers are running water. Rates: expert gun makers and once manufactured wea¬ $3,500 (Single), $5,000 (Double). Tel: (0962) 409, pons for Word War II. Aflao. Town Kpetoe RESTAURANTS

Specialties Kente E.P. Social Centre Restaurant - Ho Town Ve-Koloenu The restaurant specialises in both Ghanaian and Continental Specialties Pottery and ceramics dishes. The restaurant operates daily and meals range from $1,000 - $2,500, Buffets for Town Vume 20 people are approximately $50,000. Specialties Pottery and ceramics Lord Restaurant - Ho SELECTED HOTELS Located in the centre of town, the Lord Restaurant serves Continental and Ghanaian food. It is open Hotel Cisneros - Sogakofe from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Meals range of The Cisneros is a modern resort in a rural setting. It $1,000 to $2,000. is located on the banks of the Volta River at Green Pastures - Ho Sogakofe, midway on the Accra-Lome International Green Pastures is in the VORADEP Offices area of Highway. The hotel has 40 rooms, including five Ho. It serves beautiful chalets, each with private bath and toilet. primarily Ghanaian food; however, Continental and Oriental dishes are available on Other facilities include a swimming pool, an open- request. It a.m. p.m. air theatre, a conference hall, a lawn tennis court, operates from 9 to 4 daily. an intimate bar and a restaurant that specialises in Auntie Rose's Spot - Kpando Ghanaian, Continental and Oriental dishes. Rates Located in the centre of Kpando town, Auntie Rose's $4,500 (Double) and $7,500 (Chalet). Please Spot is noted for tasty Ghanaian and Continental contact the Ghana Tourist Board for reservations dishes ranging from $1,000 to $2,000. The until the Hotel's telephone is installed. restaurant is open from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

60 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

DRINKING SPOTS Volta Premier Forex Bureau - Near the Border

Goil Rest Stop - Ho is open from 10 a.m. to 11 Post, Aflao. p.m. daily. La Forex Bureau Global Ltd. - Near the Border Sylka Spot - Kpando located at the centre of Post, Aflao. Kpando, near the Post office; serves beer, soft drinks and spirits. Sweat Money Forex Bureau - Near the Border

The Club - Hohoe located at the town centre, Post, Aflao. serves beer, soft drinks and spirits.

Coconut Grove - Aflao located near the Sanaa HOSPITALS Hotel in Aflao. Ho Government Hospital CURRENCY EXCHANGE Keta Government Hospital Pacific Forex Bureau - Hohoe, near the town centre. Kpando Margaret Morquah Hospital

NORTHERN REGION

The Capital Mystery Stone - Larabanga Tamale, the Capital, has a population of nearly half a According to the local legend this mysterious million people. Situated in savanna-type terrain, boulder has defied being moved to another site to Tamale has a pronounced rainy season and dry make way for road construction. As a result, one season. The city has a delightful mixture of different finds the road now by going to the side of the rock. cultures and religions, which co-exist harmoniously. Hand-Made Textiles and Salt Pond — Daboya Tamale is easily reached by road from Accra, and is 55km west of Tamale is Daboya, an ancient 16th linked to other parts of the country by regular air century town of the Gonja kingdom. It was built by service on Ghana Airways. The Volta Lake Transport Ndewura Jakpa as one of the command posts of the a to Company also has boat service from Akosombo kingdom. There you will find the best local fabrics Buipe Port. From there, passengers and cargo are made from hand-spun cotton. These fabrics are moved to Tamale by road. It takes 8 hours to reach woven, dyed and sewn into beautiful indigenous Tamale by car from Accra and 22 hours by boat. garments in soft, muted colours. TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Granulated salt, used in the processing of these NATURAL AND MAN-MADE fabrics, is mined from the White Volta by collecting Mole National Park the sand and heating it over a perforated pot or Mole National Park is 160km west of Tamale, and calabash. The salt resulting from this process is can be conveniently reached by Stage Transport naturally granulated. and City Express Buses. The park has a rich HISTORIC population of elephants, lions, leopards, roan The Nalerigu Defence Wall was built in the 16th bucks, antelopes, duikers, hartebeest, kob, and all Century as a protection against raiders. It is said that types of monkeys and birds. The optimum time to Naa Dzaringa (named after the African Viper) visit is between November and March, when the ordered that any lazy worker be added to the wall. grass is low and visibility is at its best. The entire structure was said to have been built with There is a 35 room motel inside the Park. milk and honey. Parts of the wall still stand in Larabanga Mosque Nalerigu, 120km from Bolga. Larabanga Mosque is believed to have been built by German Colonial Cemetery - Yendi Moorish traders, during the time of the trans- Yendi was part of a 19th century German settle¬ Saharan trade in the 13th century. A copy of the ment. Before German rule was firmly established, a Holy Koran (Islamic Holy Book) is believed to have pitched battle was fought against the Dagombas. descended from heaven and is still preserved in the The Germans who died during the battle were mosque. This unusual and widely-photographed buried in this cemetery. Yendi is 96km east of mosque is an example of Sudanese architecture. Tamale.

61 Ghana - A Travel Guide

Terra Cotta Site - Yipabongo calendar too. It commemorates the flight of Nabiyul- The area of the ancient 9th century Koma civilization Lah Mohammed from Mecca into exile in Medina in stretches from Yipabongo in the Sandema area AD 658. The festival is celebrated in Dagbon, Gonja, through the Fumbisi Valley to Kubore. Archaeologi¬ Mamprusdi and Nanumba. cal excavation work has yielded valuable terra cotta The events begin with processions from neighbour¬ artifacts, some of which are believed to be older ing villages. By nightfall, all the villagers converge at than the Koma civilization itself. You can reach the Chiefs palace with lighted torches. Following Yipabongo via Walewale. special invocations by the Chief, the ceremonial torch is Salaga Slave Market lit, and hundreds of sparkling torches illuminate the streets. Festive This is the famous trans-Saharan slave market drumming and danc¬ ing continue until the where slaves were bought in exchange for kola and early hours of the morning. gold. Leg pegs used to restrain the slaves can still SELECTED HOTELS be seen in the market place. Salaga is about 60km south west of Tamale. Catering Rest House - Tamale Rates: $4,500 - $14,000 FESTIVALS Location: Residency Road Damba Festival Telephone: 2978 Originally linked with Islam to mark the birth of Las Hotel - Tamale Mohammed, the festival has gradually taken on a traditional rather than Islamic tone. The two-day Rates: $1,500 - $4,500 festival is full of pageantry and showmanship and is Location: Fiospital Road celebrated in the towns of Dagbon, Gonjaland, Telephone: 2217/072 Mamprusiland and Nanumbaland. Mole Motel - Damongo (Budget Hotel) Bugum Festival (Fire Carnival) Rates: $1,870 - 2,200 Although the Bugum Festival was also linked with Location: National Park Islam, it has become a major event on the traditional Telephone: 2563/072

UPPER WEST REGION

The capital of the Upper West Region, Wa, lies HISTORIC within a vast savanna grassland. It can be reached Wa Naa's Palace by road from Accra through Kumasi. This 19th century palace skilfully blends Sudanese Although there are no taxi services in town, buses and Moorish architecture and still stands as stately link the various towns and villages within the and beautiful as the day it was built. The palace has region's various districts. If you are looking for a many compounds which accommodate the numer¬ more interesting, enjoyable way to explore Wa, hire ous clans who have occupied the throne. It is the bicycles at a cost of about $60 an hour. official residence of the Wa Naa, Paramount Chief of the Walas. In front of the palace you will see the TOURIST ATTRACTIONS graves of past Wa Naas. NATURAL George Ekern Ferguson's Grave Gbelle Game Reserve A Ghanaian colonial agent from Anomabu, George The reserve is located about 17km south of Tu mu. It Ekern was instrumental in convincing the local is a sanctuary for many endangered species of chiefs in the North to sign treaties of friendship with wildlife like hippos, and water bucks, elephants and the British. In 1897, a few years before the entire birds of spectacular plumage. The Reserve's spe¬ North (including Upper East and West) became a cialized activities are devoted primarily to conser¬ British Protectorate, he was captured by Samory, vation and reproduction in an effort to protect and the famous slave raider, and was beheaded for increase the animal population. aiding the white men. His grave is preserved in Wa.

62 Ghana - A TraveI Guide

The Gbollu Defence Wall Dagbon, Gonjaland, Mamprusiland and Built by Gbollu Koro Liman in the latter part of the Nanumbaland. 19th century as a defence against Samory's slave raids, parts of the wall and its foundation are still SELECTED HOTELS visible. Gbollu is located 70km north of Wa, near the Upland Hotel - Wa Burkina Faso border. Rates: 05,500 - 07,700 Location: Kpanguri FESTIVALS Telephone: 180 Kobine Lims Hotel This post-harvest festival gives thanks to the gods -Tumu Rates: for a bountiful harvest. It is normally celebrated in 0770 Location: the month of September by the Dagaaba. The three- Stadium Road day festival culminates in feasting and dancing. Kunateh Hotel Damba Rates: 01,500 - 03,300 Location: Originally linked with Islam to mark the birth of Mohammed, the two-day festival has gradually Sawaba Hotel taken on a traditional rather than Islamic tone, with Rates: 01,200-02,200 pageantry and showmanship. It is celebrated in Location: Lawra Road

UPPER EAST REGION

The Upper East Region, located in the savanna The Paga Crocodile Pond grassland of Ghana, is rich in indigenous architec¬ Paga is located at the northeast border between ture and natural attractions. Ghana and Burkina Faso. The Paga Crocodile Pond is the sacred sanctuary for crocodiles, which are NATURAL TOURIST ATTRACTIONS said to be the totems of the Kasenas who reside in Bolga Market Paga and surrounding villages. At the Crocodile Pond, these reptiles can be enticed Bolga is the meeting point of the ancient trans- out of the water by the whistling of the caretaker and Saharan trade routes from Mali, which passed the brandishing of a chicken which the crocodile will through Burkina Faso down to Tamale and southern snatch with its long snout. If you are fearless Ghana. A second route, from northern Nigeria enough, you can hold the beast's tail and pose for through Bawku, converges at Bolga and then joins pictures. There is a small the main route from the south. charge for the chicken and a token fee to the caretaker. Dawadawa (spice used in preparing soup) and handwoven cotton fabrics were exchanged for kola Naa Gbewaa's Shrine and salt from the south. Today, Bolga is famous for Legend has it that Naa Gbewaa, the founder of the its handicraft industries, which include leather Mole-Dagbon tribes, finally settled at Pusiga in the goods, local northern attire, straw-baskets, hats, Upper East Region in the 13th century. His fans, and metal jewellery. descendants continue to worship at the shrine. (The Mole-Dagbon tribal area extends from northern Tongo Rocks Ghana into Burkina Faso.) Just 10km from Bolga is Tongo, a town built on Kulugungu Bomb Site granite rocks which rise dramatically from the In August, 1962 Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, the first terrain. These ancient rocks have interesting geo¬ President of Ghana, visited Kulugungu, a village in metric shapes and are naturally perched precar¬ the Bawku district of the Upper East Region. In his iously on top of one another. During the cold, dry honour, a reception was held near a local school, "Harmattan", which blows across the Sahara from but the event was marred by a bomb blast which November to March, the persistent wind forces its killed a young child and injured many others, way through the rocks, producing an eerie whistling including the President. A memorial has been built sound. on the spot where this event occurred.

63 Ghana - A Travel Guide

FESTIVALS Gologo Festival This festival is celebrated in March by the Talensis of Tong-Zug just before the planting of grain. During the three-day festival, sacrifices are offered to the gods for plentiful rain and good harvest.

The Fiok Festival The annual Fiok Festival is celebrated by the Builsas of Sandema in December. This is a war festival which re-enacts the ancient heroic exploits of the Builsas. Amid drumming and dancing, the gods are invoked for protection and for a bountiful harvest.

HOTELS IN BOLGATANGA Catering Rest House

Rates: ((4,400 - $5,500 Location: Bukere Telephone: 2399

Sand Garden Hotel

Rates: $1,750 - $3,300 Location: Daporentindongo Telephone: 3464

Black Star Hotel

Rates: $1,880 - $2,200 Location: Bolga Central

Royal Hotel

Rates: $1,550 - $2,200 Location: Tamale Road Road distances BURKINA FASO Paga Crocodili Accra - Koforidua 85kms

Accra - Cape Coast 144kms UPPER EAST Accra - Ho 185kms REGION ✓ Accra - Sekondi 218kms Hippopotamus Sanctuary ( Bolgatanga Accra - Kumasi 270kms

Accra - Sunyani 400kms UPPER WEST REGION, Accra - Tamale 640kms

Accra - Bolgatanga 810kms

Accra - Wa 895kms

NORTHERN REGION

# Tamale Larabanga Mosque

Mole National Park

VOLTA REGIO!

BRONG AHAFO TOGO

Kintampo Falls

Sunyani #

ASHANTI REGION •/ Wii Falls

J Kumasi # ObuasfGoldmines 0

Lake Bosumtwi Koforidua

WESTERN £ Alfosombo Dam ( Aflao Border EASTERN REGION Aburi Botantcái uacdens REGION • / JL LOME

VTER __ m CENTRAL ACC> ' REGION 'T 1 Elubo Border Ada-Volta Estuary Watersports Sekondi

Takoradi

Cape Coast Castle GULF OF GUINEA

Elmina Castle For detailed informa¬ Ghana Tourist Board, tion, travel brochures, 1st Floor, maps, hotel lists and Ministry of Trade & Tourism, suggestions for tour P.O. Box 3106, itineraries, events and Accra, Ghana.

sightseeing for groups Tels: (233) (21)665441 or 665421 and individuals please Telex: 2143 TORIST GH contact: mmi TEUHisT mmi