JEFFREY PFEIFLE LEAVES J. CREW/2 DVF ON ART AND ADS/8 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily •WEDNESDAY The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • January 23, 2008 • $2.00 Sportswear Schoolgirl Crush Has Karl Lagerfeld been visiting a few tony private schools or, say, catching some key episodes of “Gossip Girl”? Perhaps so, because on Tuesday, he went for the youth vote at Chanel with a spring couture collection of abbreviated looks featuring those fabled jackets. Here, one of his jeunes fi lles in a short, braid-trimmed gray suit. For more on the season, see pages 4 to 7.

Good News at Last: Retail Shares Buck Stock Market’s Fall By WWD Staff hile investors on Wall Street Wdumped stocks Tuesday on fears of a recession, there was renewed optimism about at least one sector: retail. The S&P Retail Index surged 5.4 percent to 394.39 as shares of retailers across all channels responded to the Federal Reserve Board’s emergency — and unprecedented — interest rate cut of 75 basis points. Investors are already banking on another rate cut next week. The much-battered retail area was, ironically, the lone star as the Dow Jones Industrial Average closed down 1.1 percent to 11,971.19, after dropping See Retail, Page 13 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 WWD.COM Jeffrey Pfeifl e Exits J. Crew WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear By David Moin Jeffrey Pfeifl e n a stunning development at J. Crew Group, Jeffrey Pfeifle, president, will leave the com- FASHION I There’s nothing quite like fashion in the round, as the curved shapes in pany on Feb. 1. Pfeifl e has been the number-two executive at 4 Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel and Giorgio Armani’s Privé collections showed. the retailer, reporting to chairman and chief ex- ecutive offi cer Millard “Mickey” Drexler, since GENERAL 2003. He’s been a close associate of Drexler for While investors on Wall Street dumped stocks Tuesday on fears of a even longer. 1 recession, there was renewed optimism about the retail sector. “Jeff and I have had a successful collabora- tion for more than 15 years, with the last fi ve at J. In a stunning development, J. Crew Group’s president and number-two Crew,” Drexler said in a statement Tuesday. “He 2 executive, Jeffrey Pfeifl e, said he will leave the company on Feb. 1. has made signifi cant contributions to our busi- The World Economic Forum is likely to be dominated by concerns that a ness. I very much appreciate our working rela- 2 sharp downturn of the U.S. economy could trigger a global recession. tionship and wish him the best.” “I have been fortunate to work with Mickey Diane von Furstenberg’s fi rst major print ad campaign in a decade is and such a talented team, and I am proud of what 8 meant to defi ne the brand’s DNA and lead to broad product expansion. has been accomplished at J. Crew,” Pfeifl e said. MAINSTREAM: After a diffi cult holiday season, buyers were cautious at Pfeifl e played a critical role in helping Drexler 10 Surf Expo, hoping that bright colors and prints would entice consumers. execute the visions for turnarounds and start- ups, including rebuilding J. Crew and launching Patrick Rabain, executive vice president of L’Oréal’s consumer products Madewell. Mostly, he had executives from the cre- 11 division, will retire at the end of February. ative sides of the teams reporting to him. Drexler WEST: The Hollywood writers’ strike, which scuttled the Golden Globes and the quieter Pfeifl e seemed to revel in the gala, loomed over the Oscar nominations and its red carpet. challenge of a turnaround and in every detail of 15 the business as J. Crew became one of the fastest- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 16-19 growing retailers around. Signifi cantly, the company said there is no near- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. term plan to fi nd a successor and that Pfeifl e’s re- [email protected], using the individual’s name. sponsibilities will be assumed by members of the executive team. Some of them have been gaining in stature, growing in their positions and working WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT closer as partners with Drexler, including Jenna ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Lyons, creative director overseeing women’s de- after being pushed out as ceo of Gap Inc. A week VOLUME 195, NO. 16. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and sign; design of Crewcuts, the children’s chain; cre- after he joined J. Crew, he recruited Pfeifl e from November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division ative development of catalogue and Web. Old Navy, where he served as executive vice pres- of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services Other key players ident and had worked closely with Drexler on provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. are Margot Brunelle, the Old Navy rollout in the Nineties. Prior to Old Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice senior vice president Navy, he worked at Polo Ralph Lauren. President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post of marketing and pub- Another source close to the company said it Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 lic relations for J. Crew, was “a mutual decision” for Pfeifl e to leave, and POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Madewell and Crewcuts; that there wasn’t a specifi c disagreement that trig- Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR Tracy Gardner, presi- gered the departure. J. Crew’s announcement on BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289- dent of retail, direct Pfeifl e’s departure gave few details and did not 0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy and merchandising; use the term resignation to characterize his leav- of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Todd Snyder, senior ing. “I’m wondering if it was a parting of ways,” correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other vice president of men’s said one retail analyst, who requested anonymity. Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list design; John Valdivia, Another retail source said the partnership be- available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. senior vice president, tween Drexler and Pfeifl e after all these years If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA store visual for J.Crew, “was no longer working out. It was time for him 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, Crewcuts and Madewell, to move on. He wasn’t as engaged. At one time, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, and Libby Waddle, ex- Drexler and Pfeifl e were real tight.” BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR ecutive vice president “I was really shocked,” said another retail ana- CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR Millard “Mickey” Drexler of the factory division. lyst, who also requested anonymity. “I believe they DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY Pfeifl e could not be let him go.” A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. reached for further comment on what happened In after-hours trading following the Pfeifl e an- or what his future plans are. nouncement, J. Crew shares fell 30 cents to $39.69, Sources close to the company said Tuesday that or 0.75 percent. they believe Pfeifl e doesn’t have a new job yet and According to a Form 4 fi ling by Pfeifl e in June, may have decided to take it easy for awhile after he owned about 540,000 J. Crew common shares. At In Brief working so hard for several years. the current trading price of almost $40, Pfeifl e’s J. Drexler joined J. Crew in late January 2003, Crew stock would be worth roughly $21.6 million. ● TAHARI DEPARTURE: Husein Jafferjee, Elie Tahari Ltd.’s ex- ecutive vice president and chief operating officer, is leaving the company Feb. 1. Jafferjee has been with Tahari for eight years. The company has started the search for his successor, expected Economic Slowdown to Dominate WEF to be named soon. By John Zarocostas About 27 heads of state and some 113 cabi- ● SHAREHOLDER SUPPORTS KELLWOOD: In the public strug- net ministers from 88 countries, as well as more gle for ownership of Kellwood Co., the St. Louis-based vendor GENEVA — The annual World Economic Forum than 900 chief executives from the top global cor- just got a vote cast for rejecting Sun Capital Securities Group’s that begins today in Davos, Switzerland, is likely porations are slated to take part in the fi ve-day unsolicited $21 a share tender offer. The support came in a let- to be dominated by concerns that the sharp down- meeting, which has the theme, “The Power of ter Friday from Towle & Co., a St. Louis-based portfolio manag- turn of the U.S. economy, the world’s largest, could Collaborative Innovation to Benefi t Us All.” er that controls more than 500,000 shares — or about 2 percent trigger a global recession. “The meeting gives us all a chance to under- — of Kellwood common stock and has for “many years.” Calling The gathering of world business and political stand and shape the global agenda for the year Sun’s bid “low-ball” and “an insult to you and your thousands leaders comes as the Federal Reserve, respond- ahead and beyond,” said Klaus Schwab, WEF of hard-working employees,” president J. Ellwood Towle asked ing to an international stock sell-off on Monday, founder and executive chairman. Kellwood’s board to fi ght the hostile takeover. “It’s simply not took emergency action on Tuesday to reduce the Top offi cials from 74 Fortune 100 companies right to sell Kellwood in 2007 at 1996 prices,” said the letter, U.S. benchmark interest rate by three-quarters of are among the guests. originally dated after Sun’s fi rst offer and resent last week. a percentage point. National leaders include: U.S. Secretary of “Sun strikes when Kellwood is most vulnerable.” Towle’s letter “The risks of a signifi cant slowdown, if not a State Condoleezza Rice, who will deliver a key- follows one last week from Discovery Group, an institutional recession, have been increasing,” said Richard note address on “Climate Change and Terrorism;” money manager that holds a 1.5 percent stake in Kellwood, Samans, WEF managing director and a former U.K. Prime Minister Gordon Brown, Japanese which said it intends to submit its 391,100 shares of Kellwood economic policy adviser to President Bill Clinton. Prime Minister Yasuo Fukuda and Chinese Vice- stock to the Sun offer. Along with concerns over volatility in global Premier Zeng Peiyan. fi nancial and energy markets, the declining dol- A series of high-level meetings are also ex- ● LAUREN’S CANCER CENTER: The Ralph Lauren Center for lar and China’s undervalued yuan, the agenda in- pected to take place on the sidelines between the Cancer Care and Prevention will open a new 2,700-square-foot cludes high oil prices and growing apprehension trade ministers of major trading powers such as endoscopy wing in Manhattan’s Harlem, made possible by a about the rapid growth and clout of sovereign Brazil, India, the European Union, the U.S., Egypt $2.5 million gift from the Polo Ralph Lauren Foundation. The wealth funds. and Japan, on how to advance the stalled Doha wing will be used to perform colonoscopy screenings as well Climate change and terrorism, as well as corpo- global trade talks. as other endoscopic procedures. Ralph Lauren, chairman and rate social responsibility, food and energy supply U.S. Trade Representative Susan Schwab and chief executive officer of Polo, will participate in the dedi- shortages, the emergence of economic powers such World Trade Organization director general Pascal cation ceremony on Jan. 28 from 8:30 to 10 a.m. at the Ralph as China and India, and global trade problems also Lamy are likely to take active roles on how to ad- Lauren Center at 1919 Madison Avenue. are on the table for the 2,500 forum participants. vance the problematic global trade negotiations. co

FEBRUARY 10-12, 2008

The Javits Center, NYC The Show Piers, NYC

9am-7pm Sunday & Monday 9am-4pm Tuesday

ENK International t. 212.759.8055 f. 212.758.3403 [email protected] te [email protected] rie www.enkshows.com/coterie 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 Circular Thinking There’s nothing quite like fashion in the round, as the curved shapes in Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel and Giorgio Armani’s Privé collections showed.

Chanel: Guests arriving at the Chanel couture show at the Grand Palais on Tuesday were hit with a very clear sign: The stage featured a soaring — as in 66 feet high — stone-colored classic jacket complete with double- C buttons and braid trim opened just enough at the bottom for the models to exit. Clearly, this would be a collection that centered on that most glorious of house standards. And indeed it did, as Karl Lagerfeld sent out a bounty. There was another message, too, in the rotating circular stage, because curves and arcs were worked into the clothes in myriad ways. Yet the real news wasn’t about jackets, nor a particular cut to the clothes, but an unmistakable out-with-the- old vibe. Perhaps inspired by a fl ock of new, girlish clients — real ones, such as twentysomethings Jade Lau and Hind Hariri, who is said to be the world’s youngest billionaire [see Class of ’08, page 7] — the show beckoned unabashedly to the sweet bird of youth, her mom’s specs apparently already safely on fi le at the Rue Cambon. The most obvious bait: schoolgirl- short skirts, and ballerina fl ats with everything. The approach made sense, but it also made for mixed results. Certainly it provided some delightful viewing — who doesn’t love an ingenue in a pretty dress? — but too often at the expense of Chanel’s typical aura of haute chic. Still, there were some beautiful clothes including — Chanel Chanel listen up — real day clothes: Chanel a pale tweed coat fastened with a brooch; a charming box-pleated salt-and-pepper halter dress with a matching jacket. Throughout, Lagerfeld worked in several side-draped skirts that made for some of his most womanly looks, if not always his most alluring. As for all of the circular motion, it turned up in seaming, puckering and a skirt crafted from giant white silk roses. When it’s time to hang up her jacket, a girl can slip into any number of party dresses that came feathered, frilled and frothed-out, some utterly charming and others, downright unfl attering: What hope is there for the civilian rich when a shape makes one of these tiny models look rotund? Thankfully, however, Lagerfeld still feels his older customers’ pain, and so he sent out a pair of dazzling allover embroidered gray gowns, perfect for lighting up the most sophisticated of nights. Chanel Chanel WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 5 WWD.COM

Giorgio Armani Privé

Giorgio Armani Privé Giorgio Armani Privé PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY

Giorgio Armani Privé: Long a proponent of megaglamour, in his spring Privé collection Giorgio Armani took it to the outer limits with elements that seemed sourced from a glamazon galaxy far beyond our own. This made for moments of high chic and of confusion alike. Armani loves a shapely silhouette and showed many that featured his skirt du jour, dubbed the “crater skirt,” a precisely constructed modifi ed lantern shape, repeated in multiple incarnations for day and evening. Invariably he paired it with something lean and sensual on top, taking liberties with many of his signature jacket motifs and often heightening the curvy drama with geometric and origami-like details of cut. This core sexy silhouette is one that appeals to a lot of stylish women, and certainly it’s easy to see why many women might swoon over such beauties as the printed plissé jacket in black-and-white silk embroidered with crystals worn over a crater skirt. Yet at times, Armani displayed a fi xation with decorative oddities that sometimes went woefully awry, starting with what looked like broken plastic discs and other geometrics. Compiled into assorted brooches and fastenings, these made for dramatic punctuation; at their most extreme, they blew up into giant paillettes to shingle a dress that could only have resonance for the Jetson set. Elsewhere for evening, Armani sometimes got too wrapped up in demonstrative fabric treatments, namely fan pleating gone wild. Yet when he scaled back only a bit, he ruffl ed, ruched, pleated and swirled with elegant grace. And his closer, a red gem of a Giorgio Armani Privé gown, paid vibrant tribute to his retiring confrere, Valentino. 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008

Ode To Joie Christian Lacroix: In a word, exquisite. Christian Lacroix redeemed a rather lackluster couture season on Tuesday with a collection that sparkled with haute joie de vivre expressed via stunningly beautiful clothes. Lacroix was inspired by his Patou past (he recently spent endless hours in his archives preparing for his exhibit now at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs), in particular the stage costumes he did while at the house, as well as by his beloved la Parisienne. “It’s very French,” Lacroix said of his spring lineup, “but French seen through the American movies of the Fifties.” Perhaps so, but who knows to what fi lms he referred? Edith Head never whipped up anything like this. The show’s festive mood also took a page or two from the circus as Lacroix worked wonders with pastiches of silks, brocades, laces and embroideries. A recurring black ribbon motif lent folkloric charm and daring prints a tribal touch. Yet some time ago Lacroix made the decision to pare down, relatively speaking. Apparently — and happily — he has no intention of veering from that newfound sense of control. For spring, he exercised it masterfully, juxtaposing fl uffy trapeze against saucy curves, pouf descendant against lanky goddess, textural montage against simple chiffon. It was captivating, and all that couture should be. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 7 WWD.COM

Paris source, these include one from Bruni’s fashion friend Karl Lagerfeld. Fashion Scoops Knowing jogging is a favorite activity of the pair, the designer recently THAT SEVENTIES SHOW: Hilary Swank may be dispatched his and hers iPods loaded a high fl yer in Hollywood, but the actress has with the latest music from DJ Michel yet to earn her wings. “I don’t know how to fl y, Gaubert, the source said. but I hope to learn very shortly,” said a sinewy Swank, who was taking time out from fi lming WOOED BY Jennifer Woo “Amelia Earhart” to attend Giorgio Armani’s FASHION: Privé couture show Monday night. “But I can Among the skydive,” she said. new faces Ellen Pompeo of “Grey’s Anatomy” was in couture’s feeling more grounded, to say the least. front row this “I’m a well-paid slave, tied down to ABC,” season is said Pompeo, who plans to tone down her Jennifer Woo, self-described “daredevil” image, due to the Claudia president writers’ strike, on the red carpet at the Screen Cardinale of Hong Actors Guild awards on Sunday. The actress, Kong-based who spent Tuesday going for fi ttings in Paris, fashion said the current climate calls for “less bling.” retailer Lane Her rebellious streak may yet win through, Crawford, though. “Watch me show up in McQueen who just — with a headdress,” she deadpanned. might join Sophia Loren said she was working the ranks of on her musical debut, themed around high-fashion Federico Fellini. “I’m a professional, and all Hilary Swank clients soon. professionals can sing,” she explained. “Maybe. Let’s Attending her fi rst couture show, fast- see,” she rising British actress Rebecca Hall said she demurred. just wrapped up Woody Allen’s “Vicki Cristina Woo and Barcelona,” opposite Scarlett Johansson, and Lane Ron Howard’s “Frost/Nixon.” “That’s good for Crawford’s fashion,” she said of the latter fi lm. “It’s set fashion in the Seventies and so I got to wear a lot of director, Halston replicas. I loved it.” Sarah Rutson, are also here HITS AND RUN: Carla Bruni — the model- to take in the turned-singer and potential new fi rst lady of trends at couture. “It’s the essence, France — has been a no-show at the couture the top, the pinnacle of fashion, and shows this week in a nation obsessed with her we need to make sure that’s kept every move. And, while Europe awaits word if alive,” said Woo, whose adventures at and when she and President Nicolas Sarkozy the couture also are being documented Ellen will wed, gifts are already arriving for the new for a feature in Vogue. Pompeo couple at the Elysée Palace. According to a Sophia Loren For more Fashion Scoops, see page 8 Class of ’08 By WWD Staff PARIS — Couture week may be thin on major celebrities, but the front rows are packed with clients at heady times for high fashion. In addition to plenty of Europeans and regulars from America like Suzanne Saperstein and Becca Cason Thrash, there are a host of fresh faces — some in their 20s and 30s — from emerging high-fashion markets like Russia, the Middle East and Asia. Here, a look at some of the newest members of the couture club:

Yuki Tan, president of Hind Hariri Kirsty Bertarelli Folie Follie Hails from: Lebanon Hails from: Geneva Hails from: Beijing Seen at: Chanel Seen at: Christian Dior, Seen at: Giorgio Armani, Fashion statement: Armani Privé, Chanel Givenchy “Couture for me is for Fashion statement: “It’s Elena Likhach Fashion statement: “What special occasions when I Kassidy Schagrin nice to wear something Hails from: Moscow I love about couture is it’s am representing my Hails from: Washington unique, something that Seen at: Christian Dior, not only about money, it’s family. I’m more into Seen at: Armani Privé, suits your own body type. Chanel a dream, isn’t it? Every prêt-à-porter. I tend to go Chanel, Christian Lacroix Once you have experi- Fashion statement: “My woman should be able to for simple dresses in Fashion statement: enced that, it’s diffi cult style’s classic: Dior, dream and enjoy life, wonderful fabrics.” “Classic with a twist.” not to go back for more.” Chanel, Valentino.” why not?”

Irina Abramovich Jean C. Liu Alexandra Melnichenko Hails from: Moscow Hails from: Dallas Hails from: Moscow Seen at: Chanel, Christian Lacroix Seen at: Armani, Lacroix, Dior, Chanel, Seen at: Chanel, Christian Lacroix, Fashion statement: “I always mix couture Gaultier Givenchy with ready-to-wear pieces by designers Fashion statement: “Everyone in Dallas has the Fashion statement: “In summer, I always love such as Alexander McQueen and Nina same clothes. Couture is a fun way for me to Christian Lacroix because of all the colors. Ricci. One can even mix Ralph Lauren wear something different. I have an apprecia- In the winter, I like Chanel, and if it’s with couture.” tion for the time and work that goes into each dark and cold, Givenchy.” piece. It’s an art I support.” PHOTOS BY DELPHINE ACHARD, THIERRY CHOMEL, STEPHANE GIANNONI FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 WWD.COM DVF Campaign: Separating Brand From Designer By Marc Karimzadeh Meatpacking District fl agship two weeks earlier to make her own wardrobe picks for the shoot. NEW YORK — Over the years, Diane von “We went outside, and just walked around and Furstenberg has posed for artists like Andy Warhol, talked,” Vodianova recalled of the day and a half Francesco Clemente and Anh Duong, and more in Paris. “François-Marie would take pictures of photographers than she probably cares to remem- me and, sometimes, he saw something special, ber. But when it came to her first major foray into he would…say, ‘Don’t move.’ Then he would take print advertising since relaunching her label over the picture.” a decade ago, the designer made a strategic deci- The photos portray Vodianova in powerful sion to stay out of the picture. black-and-white photographs, with Banier add- “I want to differentiate the person from the brand,” ing dashes of color and his free thoughts in his she said. “The person is one thing that is so attached signature handwriting. The images don’t hawk a to the label because I am the founder, but then there certain dress, but convey the spirit of the fashion is also the brand, and I thought it should have another house and its charismatic founder. face. It’s also about the legacy.” “Diane wanted a spirit, and she really asked With the campaign, von Furstenberg is opening me as an artist,” Banier said. ”This is an interpre- a new chapter for her label. The designer’s busi- tation of what I feel about her work. It has soul, ness has expanded rapidly in recent years, and von it’s about femininity, about a feeling, about what Furstenberg now sells her dresses in 56 countries, she wants to do, and my feeling about color and with 22 freestanding boutiques worldwide. It was time, interpretation.” she said, to take it to the next level and brand her line Von Furstenberg hopes the images, which will with a clearly defi ned DNA that could inform future be placed in the magazines as special gate-folds, categories such as beauty, accessories and the home will convey to readers myriad qualities that defi ne for decades to come. her brand. Lipman added, “When you think about This being DVF, though, it wasn’t just going to be Diane von Furstenberg, you think about her. This another campaign featuring the model of the moment is still an expression of her, but it takes it from a in pieces from her most recent collection. She enlisted brand point of view. It’s no longer her in the ads, French artist François-Marie Banier, model Natalia it’s not the Warhol of her or the lips. It’s passing the Vodianova and ad man David Lipman to create the vi- mantle to the brand…so that the brand can go out. suals, which will make their debut in March issues of But it is still everything about the character she select fashion and lifestyle magazines. built her company on.” Von Furstenberg has known Banier for 35 years, On a similar note, von Furstenberg also put having met him with her then-husband, the late Egon together her fi rst brand book fi lled with pho- von Furstenberg, on a trip to Luxor, Egypt. In the tographs of all the things that inform her phi- early stages of his career, Banier became known for losophy of design, from natural environments, his striking photographs of Samuel Beckett, Silvana bazaars, spices, fabrics and colors to women Mangano and Vladimir Horowitz. Later on, he added who inspire her, and her family. The brand book writing to his images, a technique that piqued von juxtaposes some of her quotes, such as “Women Furstenberg’s interest at a recent Banier exhibit in inspire me, I design to inspire them,” with brand Berlin. “When I saw that show, I began to think, and François-Marie Banier’s images of statements. Case in point, “I always wanted to then I had this idea,” she recalled. Natalia Vodianova for Diane von Furstenberg. live a man’s life in a woman’s body” corresponds “I sent David to Paris,” she said. “I wanted to images of Wonder Woman and the com- him to stay in my apartment so he would be pany statement, “We help women to be who around my things and I arranged the ren- they want to be.” dezvous at François-Marie’s atelier and they The designer said cementing her DNA clicked. will serve her company well as it embarks on “Then we had to see who it was going to brand extensions such as accessories, beauty be,” she added. “He either wanted me or do and home. “It shows the emotion and all the a still life, but I said, ‘No, this is fashion.’ layers underneath you never see,” she said. Because he didn’t want a model, I thought, Never short of an anecdote, von who can I use, whose beauty do I respect not Furstenberg drew a parallel — albeit an only from the outside, but also her strength abstract one — with a backstage visit at of character. Natalia is 25 now, she is a top a Kabuki performance on her fi rst trip to model, but also married to an aristocrat and Japan. “It’s supposed to be a young virgin has three kids. She is the head of this huge but, in truth, it is a middle-aged man with foundation, but 10 years ago or even less, a wig,” she said. “This man fi rst puts white she was selling apples in a market outside of things on himself, then they bring him lay- Moscow. I was always inspired by her charac- ers of skirts. One will be green with white ter, her dignity and her strength.” carrots, one is red with blue, and then an- Banier photographed Vodianova on the other one is a plaid — layers and layers of Paris streets on a rainy day, and in a studio different colors and patterns. The top layer in New York. There was no fashion stylist to is black. On stage, nobody knows of all these pick the clothes, hair stylist to prep the hair colors underneath but the actor, and there- or make-up artist — just the model herself, fore it’s all in his behavior. Sometimes the Banier and Lipman were present on the shoot. layers don’t have to be seen, but they create Vodianova had been to von Furstenberg’s the depth and the authenticity.”

she’d just shot the HEATH LEDGER REMEMBERED: Heath Ledger’s American Retro death Tuesday afternoon stunned Hollywood, Fashion Scoops campaign with but it also rattled the New York nightlife and Terry Richardson. fashion communities of which Ledger slowly GIVENCHY GROUPIES: Ricardo Tischi of Givenchy is Freckle-faced had been becoming a part. In September, becoming quite a designer’s designer. Both Yohji Marnay, who stars in the actor was one of the most visible — if Yamamoto and Alessandra Facchinetti showed up to Cédric Klapisch’s new not one of the biggest — celebrities making watch Tischi’s couture show on Tuesday. “He really fi lm, “Paris,” said the rounds during fashion week. He wound respects the clothes,” said Yamamoto. she is also keeping up at Another Magazine’s bash at the Facchinetti said she plans to attend Valentino’s a foot in modeling, Bowery Hotel alongside Chloë Sevigny and swan song today. “I hope I don’t cry,” she said. having just shot a Helena Christensen. The following night, campaign for the he drew stares dressed in a grungy T-shirt TOMB RAIDERS: A decor worthy of a “Harry Potter” French jewelry brand and sandwiched between Vincent Gallo fi lm — including old tomes, skulls, stuffed owls Fred, in which she and rocker Michael Stipe in the front row of

and hunks of mineral — awaited guests at Louis stars with rising Marc Jacobs’ show. Twenty-four hours later, STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Vuitton’s bash Monday night for a new fi ne jewelry French indie actor Delphine Arnault Ledger ditched his grubby downtown look Heath Ledger at Marc Jacobs and Pharrell Williams spring 2008 show.

collection by Pharrell Williams and Camille Miceli. Melvil Poupaud. STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY and arrived at Calvin Klein’s after party at Holding court at a private mansion on Avenue the Gramercy Park Hotel in a natty suit. “I Foch, Williams welcomed the likes of Sofi a Coppola, NIC AT NIGHT: Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière haven’t gotten this dressed up since the Oscars,” said the reticent actor, who Natalia Vodianova, Audrey Marnay and Dita Von Teese. is to receive an award of merit from the French showed up at the intimate dinner with Christensen. Coppola confi rmed she’ll soon be back in action, government. On Tuesday, he will be decorated Upon hearing the news Tuesday, Bungalow 8 owner Amy Sacco told currently working on a script. Elsewhere, French as a Chevalier of Arts and Letters by luxury titan WWD, “I am devastated. He was a sweet, smart and talented young man and thespians Joanna Preiss, Elodie Bouchez and Romain François Pinault, owner of Balenciaga parent PPR, had many friends. My heart goes out to his family.” Duris huddled on an old-fashioned couch discussing in a ceremony at Balenciaga headquarters in Paris. Christensen said, “I am just beyond sad at this point, and shocked…. their precious heirlooms. House regulars such as Charlotte Gainsbourg and I was on my way over to pay him a visit when I found out. I had just left him “It’s from the Twenties and belonged to the Isabelle Huppert are expected to attend a casual a message and heard his voice on the machine….He was such a special and grandmother of my best friend,” said Preiss of a gathering, along with all Balenciaga employees, to genuine person, so extraordinarily talented because he was so raw and honest gold chain bracelet. The actress-cum-model said share in the recognition. with his feelings. He was so full of life, so electric….This is immensely sad.”

10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 WWD.COM In the Mainstream Buyers Proved Timid at Surf Expo

By Georgia Lee proven styles from key resources, including Billabong, and geometric print caftans, miniskirts, T-shirts and Volcom and Roxy. He’s zeroing in on swimwear, which of- camisoles by Island Company, Lacoste and Peppermint ORLANDO, Fla. — After a difficult holiday season, buy- fers “more bang for the buck” than apparel, he said. Bay. She scoured the show for new sportswear lines in ers were cautious at Surf Expo, hoping that bright color Skinner will also cast a wider net to add women to breezy cotton, eyelet and gauze fabrics, and accessories and prints would entice consumers this summer. his mostly junior customer base. He bought more swim- of natural shells and tortoise materials. The show ran Jan. 11 to 13 at the Orange County wear from Sunset Separates and Vix, along with T-shirts Contemporary swimwear was the focus for Krista Convention Center here, with 200 new exhibitors from a and dresses, a category that should continue to be strong Landgraf, swimwear buyer for South Moon Under, a total of 1,200, and 10,000 preregistered buyers, offi cials for all ages, he said. Berlin, Md.-based specialty chain with 11 Mid-Atlantic said. Apparel was 70 percent of product, from core surf Increased competition from manufacturers’ expand- stores, from Philadelphia to Richmond, Va. lines to swimwear and “Resort” and “Boutique” areas of ing retail distribution and forays into e-commerce had To distance the store from discounters and depart- sportswear and young contemporary lines. led Skinner to seek new lines at Surf Expo. ment stores, she moved from “commodity brands” to add Women’s surf apparel brands have evolved from men’s “We need new brands that we can count on for on more fashion swimwear lines that complement apparel. spin-offs into complex brands in their own right. The time deliveries and shipping,” he said. Landgraf bought bestseller Trina Turk’s Mayan paisley Surf Industry Manufacturers Association said women’s print and solid colors embellished with apparel sales were $327 million — up 32 percent from gold hardware. She also bought Radio $249 million in 2004 — of the $7.48 billion in surf industry Fiji’s stripes and sophisticated prints sales for 2006, the most recent fi gures available. with leather treatments and a new line, The show refl ected more current retail and economic b. swim, for younger customers. trends. Merchants were careful in their purchases, and “The East Coast is starting to re- several exhibitors were in transition mode, with new spond to mixed media prints and pat- designers, licensees or fi nancial backers, adding to a terns, and layering two tops and bot- sense of uncertainty. toms, a trend that’s been selling on Trends were more classic than cutting-edge. Bright the West Coast for a while,” she said, colors, contrasting with last year’s earth tones, pervad- referring to the store’s e-commerce ed the show, from citrus to jewel tones to neon shades. business, which is 15 percent of total Prints and patterns were big, including mixed versions swimwear sales. of fl orals, abstracts and graphics. Swimwear trends in- Landgraf picked up opening price cluded skimpier triangle and bandeau tops paired with cover-ups for private label brands, boy-leg and hipster bottoms, with more subtle embel- along with fashion-forward beach-to- lishment than last season. street looks, such as dresses by Betsey Some of those attending lamented the “mainstream- Johnson and Vix. ing” of surf apparel and the growth of big surf brands, Travel Traders, a Miami-based hotel which, they said, had homogenized the category. and resort chain with 200 properties in “How can surf be about freedom and counterculture, the U.S. and Caribbean, sent three buy- and still be all over Macy’s?” said Spencer Antle, chief ers to Surf Expo. executive offi cer of Island Company, a West Palm Beach, A swimsuit from the new “We’re looking for special product, Fla., sportswear, swim and apparel exhibitor. “The in- Ed Hardy swimwear collection, not carried in department stores, that dustry needs to redefi ne itself, buyers need to be willing introduced at Surf Expo. guests will wear at the resort and at to take risks again.” home that will remind them of their va- At Surf World, an independent surf shop with loca- cation,” said buyer Christopher Askew. tions in Pompano Beach and Dania, Fla., sales slowed Kathie Orrico, owner of C. Orrico, a Palm Beach spe- For all-inclusive resorts with the goal of keeping this year, with women’s apparel particularly soft during cialty store with fi ve South Florida units, refl ected on guests on the property, Askew bought for a wide range the holidays. the multifaceted direction of Surf Expo, with a store that of ages and sizes, concentrating on casual, tropical-in- Owner Randy Skinner attributed the downturn to combines swimwear, resort and beach lifestyle dressing. spired resort sportswear lines, including bestsellers price pressure from bargain-hunting consumers and in- “No matter what’s going on in fashion, the beach is a Tommy Bahama, Peppermint Bay, Fresh Produce and creased competition from department stores and mall lifestyle, with cute, easy dresses and sandals,” she said. Island Company. chain stores, and more manufacturers, such as Roxy, “It’s a classic, ‘Gidget’-meets-Audrey Hepburn, Palm “When the economy is scary as it is today, we’re hop- which began selling on the Internet. Beach-Nantucket look.” ing that guests will have expendable income,” he said. Predicting a “tricky year,” Skinner is tightening budgets With no traditional surf lines, and Lilly Pulitzer as “We’re looking at a wider range of price points, to offer and inventories, buying narrow and deep and focusing on a primary resource, Orrico bought bold colors, fl oral something for everybody.”

PRANA BUSY ON REVIEW: Prana may be said Dari Marder, chief merchandising offi cer Fleece project and our relationship with on review by Liz Claiborne Inc., but the of Iconix. “It has such a great history in Thom Browne. The project has been very activewear brand is still aggressively dance, but also great fashion heritage.” With successful for us on many levels. We are only NEWSREEL expanding its business. Following the the tag line “everything you remember and halfway into Thom’s contract and about to winter 2007 men’s launch of Scapegoat, more,” the ads will appear in March issues of deliver the second collection, and it would RYKA & KELLY: After gracing January’s its premium outerwear line, Prana is adding magazines from Self to In Style to Hamptons, be entirely premature to speculate what will cover of Fitness, Kelly Ripa is venturing a women’s collection for fall. Wholesaling said Marder. come next. We will obviously be discussing into activewear design. The sprightly TV from $225 to $325, the line will be sold in this in the coming months and look forward personality just signed a three-year contract specialty outdoor stores and boutiques. Door NHL ENLISTS MILANO TO TOUCH FANS: The to seeing how the project evolves.” with Ryka, an active brand owned by counts and volume estimates are still in the National Hockey League has partnered with American Sporting Goods, to codesign an works. Since Prana was put up for sale by actress Alyssa Milano and G-III Apparel INCA STORE LAUNCH: Resort brand Inca apparel and footwear collection launching for the $4.99 billion Claiborne in July, it has Group for an NHL version of the Touch by has opened its fi rst store at 976 Lexington fall. The working title for the line is the Kelly opened its fi rst freestanding retail doors and Alyssa Milano clothing line. This is the latest Avenue in Ripa Collection for Ryka, and the price range launched Scapegoat. The company is one extension on Milano’s licensed brand, which Manhattan. The Inca’s fi rst store. and distribution are of only four brands left waiting to hear its was introduced last year with Major League 700-square- still to be determined. future, and analysts speculate that when the Baseball and also added National Football foot space sells She’ll also serve as niche active brand’s fate is decided in the League, National Basketball Association chic resort the brand’s offi cial next two months, it will either go for a high and the Collegiate Licensing Co. this year. essentials, like spokeswoman. price or be kept and expanded by Claiborne. Launching in February, the misses’ collection, embroidered Ripa, a runner and targeting the female fan, includes outerwear, and embellished Physique 57 [club ICONIX’S FIRST DANSKIN CAMPAIGN: It’s tops, denim and dresses. Wholesaling for swimwear, and class] devotee been almost a year since Iconix bought $25 to $50, the line will be available at bohemian who received Danskin, and the branding company is Shop.com, NHL.com, NHL arena team stores caftans, luxe Ryka shoes and pumping “seven fi gures” into repositioning and select retailers in the U.S. and Canada. pillows, towels running shorts the dance brand with an ad campaign that To promote her collection, Milano will attend and beach bags, from the company breaks this week. It’s the fi rst ad campaign the 2008 NHL All-Star Weekend celebration from $100 after discussing for Danskin under the Iconix umbrella, and in Atlanta this weekend. for a towel to her fi tness routine on features Matthew $400 for the the air, said she will be “as involved as McConaughey’s A Danskin BLACK FLEECE OR BLACK SHEEP?: Thom most expensive caftan. Stephanie Hirsch humanly possible” in the design process. girlfriend, ad. Browne’s avant-garde Black Fleece collection started the brand 10 years ago, and Stacy “I don’t want to just slap my name on model Camila may be feeling like a bit of a black sheep at Josloff partnered with her in 2004 to launch something,” she said, adding she likely Alves, whose preppy Brooks Brothers, where sources said incagirl.com. “The Upper East Side seemed will wear her line in any fi tness segment on pregnancy was the debut collection may not be receiving to be the ideal place to dip our toes in the “Regis & Kelly.” “I’m also a human guinea just announced. the welcome from customers the retailer had water with our fi rst boutique — the women in pig for the product line. I actually wear it “With the ads, expected. After Browne’s four-season deal this zip code are always jetting off to fabulous and decide what works, what fi ts well and we are trying to ends, Brooks Bros. may rotate the higher- locales,” Josloff said. The store offers a what doesn’t.” The company said it chose encourage people end label to another guest designer, sources made-to-measure program where runway Ripa — who will be appearing in print ad to take a different said. But Lou Amendola, Brooks Bros. chief looks can be customized to ensure a perfect campaigns, online programs and in-store look at Danskin merchandising offi cer, who has run the niche fi t. Next, Inca plans to open its second store point of purchase packages — because of her — it’s fashion and program, said in a statement, “Overall, we in Miami in March. commitment to an active lifestyle. performance,” are very happy with the results with the Black — Whitney Beckett WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 11 WWD.COM Moves Atop L’Oréal as Rabain Retires PARIS — Changes are afoot in the company, which was founded in the buy, when it’s cleared this hair care business. Prior to the upper echelons of L’Oréal. Patrick Franck Provost in Salon Buy 1983, generated around 18 mil- month as expected, will make appointment, George was vice Rabain, executive vice presi- PARIS — Franck Provost Salon lion euros, or $24.7 million at Franck Provost Salon Group president and general manager dent of the company’s consumer Group has agreed to buy the average exchange, in 2007 sales, Europe’s largest hair salon com- of the company’s deodorant products division, will retire at Groupe Saint-Karl hair salon according to industry sources. pany. Provost also said other ac- business. “Kevin George has the end of February, the French chain, sources close to the deal The deal between Franck quisitions are in the cards. been very successful at lead- beauty giant announced Monday. said Tuesday. Provost and Saint-Karl, whose The Franck Provost Salon ing the growth of Unilever’s “Patrick Rabain is clearly one Spokeswomen from the two terms could not be learned, is Group, founded in 1975, gener- U.S. deodorant business,” of the major fi gures in the his- Paris-based expected ated sales of 220 million euros, Kevin Havelock, president of tory of L’Oréal,” said Jean-Paul companies to be fi- or $302 million, last year. Unilever U.S., said in a state- Agon, the fi rm’s chief executive declined to nalized in — Ellen Groves ment. “His appointment to head offi cer, in a statement. “Working comment BEAUTY BEAT April. the combined [antiperspirant, closely from his early days with Tuesday. Franck deodorant and hair care] busi- Lindsay Owen-Jones, he has Privately owned Saint-Karl Provost’s latest buy follows close Unilever Promotes George ness team is well deserved and played a leading role in our com- operates 170 doors, including on the heels of its October acqui- reflects our confidence in his pany’s development throughout 140 in France, of which 35 are sition of the Jean-Louis David NEW YORK — Unilever U.S. leadership, business acumen a career entirely devoted to franchised; 20 in Portugal, of and Saint-Algue operations of has named Kevin B. George and brand-management expe- consumer products, driving its which 12 are franchised, and Regis Corp. At that time, Franck vice president and general rience.” The business unit in- growth tremendously by maxi- four wholly owned salons in Provost, founder and chairman manager of the company’s an- cludes brands like Axe, Degree, mizing the power of its major Spain and Switzerland. The of his namesake fi rm, claimed tiperspirant, deodorant and Suave, Dove and Sunsilk. brands and successfully rolling them out on all continents.” Rabain, who spent 34 years at L’Oréal, has held his current po- sition since 1996. Prior to that, he worked as director of consumer products in France, director of L’Oréal Germany, director of L’Oréal United Kingdom and mar- keting director of L’Oréal Paris. In 1973, he started his career at the company as head of market- ing studies at L’Oréal Paris. Jean-Jacques Lebel, execu- tive vice president of profes- sional products, will succeed Rabain. “The career of Jean-Jacques Lebel has been exceptional,” continued Agon. “In his six years at the professional products divi- sion, he has strongly developed and modernized the division, which, under his leadership, has considerably accelerated its growth, increasing the lead it en- joys over its competitors. L’Oréal is today, more than ever before, world number one. Through his outstanding personal qualities, the richness of his experience and the exemplary success of his career, Jean-Jacques Lebel is a completely legitimate successor to Patrick Rabain.” Lebel became executive vice president of professional prod- ucts in 2001. Before that, he was managing director of the Latin America zone, director of L’Oréal United Kingdom, man- A TASTE OF WHAT’STOCOME... aging director of Laboratoires Garnier France and manag- ing director of L’Oréal Paris in .babee d. • Bianca • By Boe • Crea Concept • Creative Concepts • Great Britain. He joined L’Oréal Crislu • Devon Leigh • Eileen West • Emil Ruttenberg • Finley Shirts in 1981. • Flying Lizard • For Joseph • Lodis • M. Miller • Majorica Jewelry • Marc Nicolas Hiéronimus replaces Lebel as executive vice president Aurel • Nicole Miller Jewelry • Orabella Scarano • People Like Frank • of consumer products. Between Pilgrim • Raviani Handbags • Renato Nucci • Robert Cavalli Watches 2005 and 2007, Hiéronimus • Sita Murt • Sulu Collection • Susanna Mercedes • The Finest headed L’Oréal Mexico. In 2000, he was appointed L’Oréal Paris’ Accessories • Wendy Culpepper • Yansi Fugel fi rst international managing di- rector. He also served as man- aging director of L’Oréal Paris February 1315, 2008 France, managing director of Wednesday 9am6pm • Thursday 9am6pm • Friday 9am5pm Garnier/Maybelline in Great Britain and marketing director of Laboratoires Garnier in France. He began his career at L’Oréal in Garnier and Gemey-Maybelline’s marketing department. “Nicolas Hiéronimus has al- ready had a formidably successful 21-year career at L’Oréal, during The Venetian Hotel Resort LAS VEGAS which he has demonstrated not only outstanding management skills and leadership, but also great Attend: 8666966020 • Exhibit: 2126864412 • Hotel Reservations: 8882836423 qualities of strategic vision and in- novative thinking,” said Agon. In other company news, be- www.accessoriestheshow.com • www.modalasvegas.com tween 2009 and 2013, L’Oréal will renovate its headquarters in AccessoriesTheShow Las Vegas and Moda Las Vegas are properties of Business Journals, Inc. the Paris suburb of Clichy. The 5-acre site is to be designed by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte around a large garden area. — Jennifer Weil 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 WWD.COM Marketing Fashion Antidotes for Frenzied Times By Valerie Seckler reating an “aura of wonder” or a C“transporting” experience will en- able fashion brands to connect with 21st- century shoppers swimming in more in- formation than they can negotiate — in many cases information they themselves are constantly scoping out on cell phones, personal digital assistants and other por- table technologies, forecast brand image developer Cheryl Swanson. “Daydreaming, fantasy and sleeping are things we need more of,” as we move from an information age into an age of imagination, advised Swanson, principal Whisper brands, like Muji (center) and Uniqlo (right), which approach the consumer subtly, are expected to fi nd favor this year, as are high-style, partner in Toniq. Fashions most likely low-cost brands such as H&M (left). to succeed in this environment, she pro- jected, are those that “transcend function from Cadillac to Lego, as evidence. “People are trying to search out things Kiwa Iyobe, independent trend ana- and looking cool, and take you to a new “The plainer brands are going to have a that are authentic — things that refl ect lyst: “Quality versus quantity. Built-to- place, almost like costuming. Not a uni- chance,” said Popcorn, chief executive themselves. Mallifi cation has hit the wall. last, collector editions versus dispos- form. And not all black.” officer of marketing consultant Faith The fact [so many] stores carry the same ables. One good pair of shoes that will Others, including futurist Faith Popcorn’s BrainReserve. thing has started to become tiresome. Has last fi ve years, versus 20 cheap pairs you Popcorn, think it’s apparel and accou- The interest in classics and the onset the day of the 1,500-store chain run its wear a few times. More companies focus- trements that are absent logos and offer of a phenomenon Popcorn calls “life course? Is it time for the 200-store chain? ing on a single product or product cat- clean styling — “things you can wear rage” — a sense things have fallen apart It always has to start with the consumer.” egory, like a high-quality cotton shirt or year-round” — that are most likely to fl y on us suddenly — are underpinning and Drew Neisser, chief executive offi cer, bespoke tuxedos. Pricy, specially pack- with consumers this year and she points foreshadowing what she sees taking Renegade Marketing: “In a slowing econ- aged, collector editions, like Radiohead’s to a renewed interest in classic brands, shape as a “whisper” world view. Against omy, the haves will look for less ostenta- “In Rainbows” CD, vinyl records, art- the backdrop of a roller-coaster stock tious design in which the quality is on work, lyric booklets and hardback book, market, new job woes, a troubled housing the inside, but not as visible on the out- slipcased together for $85. Burberry market and the war in Iraq, she expects side. In other words, it’s time to hide the “So many fashion brands do too brands to fare well by “taking themselves fur. Turn the coat inside out so you know much these days — clothing, fragrance, out of the clutter and noise…and whis- you’ve got fur, but the world doesn’t. beauty, optical. So brands specializing pering in our ears to be heard above the Burberry is among the high-end brands in perfecting one product category are roar of the mediascape.” that might do well, since their signature very appealing. High-quality brands like “Classics are a bridge to that,” Popcorn plaid is often on the inside. Prada bags Patagonia, which makes fairly indestruc- noted. “They have a lot of equity with the that don’t say Prada is another example. tible outdoorsy gear, have benefi ted from consumer and don’t have to yell.” High-style, lower-cost brands like H&M consumers willing to pay more for some- Following are some of the things trend and Uniqlo will continue to do well. thing long lasting (a $175 fl eece jacket) forecasters and marketing executives “Green will move from being a fringe that doesn’t necessarily scream luxury.” think are most likely to infl uence fashion consideration to a priority for many fash- Faith Popcorn, ceo, Faith Popcorn’s consumers this year. ion brands. Brands that are green and BrainReserve: “I expect whisper brands, Irma Zandl, president of trend fore- fashionable will have an advantage over brands that become more subtle and inti- caster The Zandl Group: “I expect women brands that are simply fashionable or mate, to be a growing infl uence, such as to add a luxurious touch to their personal green. If two brands are seen as design Muji, a name that means unbranded [in style, like a luxurious fabric; things that and price equals, the tie will be broken Japanese], and Uniqlo. feel a little richer, nicer in an eclectic by the brand perceived to be greener. “First, brands told us what to do. way. I expect guys to keep getting a lit- Marks & Spencer is offering a 5-pound Second, we made certain brands our tle more dressed up — an Obama effect. [$10] coupon to customers who bring in own. Now, I think we’re going to get sick With the economy not doing so well, they used clothes, which is a great way to get of being a brand person — thinking, ‘I’m may feel they need to put on a little more shoppers back into their stores and to a Nike person’ — and respond to brands professional look. make a brand statement.” that whisper.” Going the Extra Mile to Get the Goods Delivered Keeping the Customer Satisfi ed 77%: Share of people in 10 countries inclined to keep doing he Federal Trade Commission is considering put- Any changes made by the government would follow business with a company that gives them good service. Tting more teeth into the regulations that protect the FTC’s current review of comments on the rule and 57%: Share of U.S. consumers for whom customer service consumers who experience problems with late deliv- the agency’s renewal of the regulation, which was im- is the top factor when seeking a new retailer to shop. eries, deliveries of the wrong items, merchandise or- plemented in 1975 in response to people’s complaints 44%: Portion of people in the U.S. who expect more from ders they have not received and refunds that have not about mail-order merchandise deliveries and refunds. stores, catalogues and online shops than they did fi ve years ago. been made. Also under consideration is whether purchases made 23%: Portion of people in the U.S. who expect more from The National Retail Federation and the Direct with newer forms of payment such as debit cards and stores, catalogues and online shops than they did one year ago. Marketing Association are advocating expansion of the Internet payment services like PayPal should be cov- Mail or Telephone Order Merchandise Rule to regulate ered, and whether refunds should be made to shoppers SOURCE: ACCENTURE 2007 GLOBAL CUSTOMER SERVICE SATISFACTION REPORT, all orders placed online by consumers, a change that by any means other than fi rst-class mail, such as UPS or POLLING 3,500 ADULTS IN 10 COUNTRIES, INCLUDING THE U.S., CANADA, BRAZIL, CHINA, would be chief among those the FTC could implement Federal Express. AUSTRALIA AND THE U.K. to the regulation. Any changes in the regulations are ex- People shopping smaller catalogues, online stores Shoppers’ prospects of resolving delivery problems — a pected to come during the fi rst half of 2008. and telemarketers as well as those purchasing artisanal key aspect of customer service — could improve if the FTC Most big merchants generally are complying with the and one-of-a-kind items are among those most likely to expands its direct order merchandise rule. direct order merchandise rule, government and trade experience problems with deliveries and refunds, ac- association offi cials said. Nonetheless, consumer com- cording to government and trade association offi cials. for penalties that can range as high as $11,000 per viola- plaints about merchandise orders placed by phone, “Delivery often becomes the most important part of tion of the merchandise order rule, said Joel Brewer, an catalogue and online were the second most numerous the online shopping process, given how many people attorney at the FTC’s Bureau of Consumer Protection. ones made to the FTC in 2006, totaling 46,995. They ran are getting their purchases immediately,” said Lauren “Civil penalties have gone up year-by-year since the fi rst a distant second to the most common complaint, identity Freedman, president of consultant The E-tailing Group. year of the rule, 1975,” Brewer said. “Violations are not theft, about which 246,035 were registered. “We’re living in a FedEx culture. It’s like, ‘I’m waiting viewed as forgivingly anymore.” With the rule’s last revision, in 1993, to include goods this long to get it?’ ” In the group’s 10th annual custom- Brewer said a direct order merchandise rule case ordered on the phone, items bought via dial-up Internet er service survey of 100 online stores during the fourth is pending, but he declined to specify. The second-larg- links were also protected by virtue of their phone con- quarter, two delivery glitches popped up: packages est civil penalty ever assessed under the merchandise nections. In the 15 years since then, dial-up connections dropped by third-party shippers at post offi ces, where order regulation, $850,000, was levied in May 2003 have shrunk to represent about 35 percent of the coun- they were delayed until more items destined for the against Staples, when the FTC settled a complaint that try’s online population, while broadband connections same area arrived and could be delivered at the same the offi ce supply chain misled customers on its Web site account for about 65 percent of Internet users in the time, and to a lesser extent, orders placed for goods that about the “real time” availability of its products and the U.S., noted Ken Cassar, vice president of custom ana- were not yet available, unbeknownst to the purchaser. site’s ability to deliver them in the time promised. lytics at Nielsen/NetRatings. The number of broadband It took an average of “slightly over four days,” In speaking of compliance with the merchan- users surpassed those with narrow-band, phone-based Freedman said, for the 100 sites surveyed to deliver the dise order rule, Jerry Cerasale, senior vice presi- access back in May 2004, Cassar said. goods ordered. dent of government affairs at the Direct Marketing “If you want consumers to trust shopping online, Shoppers unable to resolve delivery and refund prob- Association, observed, “The thing that’s most at stake you want them to have the same protections, regardless lems with merchandise ordered can fi le a complaint is the customer relationship. Good word of mouth is of the method [of Internet connection,]” said Mallory with the FTC or their state attorney general, seeking vital for direct marketers — people aren’t holding the Duncan, NRF’s senior vice president and general coun- a consumer injury award or civil penalties. Pursuit of goods in their hands physically as they are in a store. sel. “What you don’t want is for online to become a civil penalties is now the most common route taken, a It’s part of the trust.” haven for bad actors.” combination of federal laws and regulations providing — V.S. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 13 WWD.COM Retail Shows Life in Down Market

Continued from page one Italy’s S&P/MIB Index closed up Tuesday for the fi rst mately 1 percent of the gross domestic product, or about more than 460 points earlier in the day. The S&P 500 slid time in six days following the Fed cut. The index gained $140 billion to $150 billion. Bush met with Congressional 1.1 percent to close at 1,310.50. The New York market de- 1.2 percent to 34,302. On Monday, it slumped 5.2 percent, leaders Tuesday to discuss an economic plan. clines Tuesday followed steep falls Monday on Asian and the most since Sept. 11, 2001. On Capitol Hill, the Senate Finance Committee European markets. Italian luxury goods and fashion stocks have been called on Peter Orszag, director of the Congressional American investors rallying to retail were betting feeling the effects of the U.S. downturn this year. Shares Budget Offi ce, to present economic stimulus options at that an economic stimulus package from the Bush ad- in Benetton Group SpA lost more than a third of their the fi rst of two hearings the committee will hold this ministration — as well as lower rates on variable inter- value earlier this month, prompting the Benetton family week as it shapes its own economic plan. Orszag warned est debt such as home equity loans, credit cards and to add to its controlling stake in the clothing company lawmakers that enacting policies that have longer-term adjustable rate mortgages — would put more cash in last week. The Benetton family bought 5.5 million euros, effects, such as a cash infusion for highway and bridge consumers’ hands. or $7.98 million at current exchange, of shares through improvements — a measure lawmakers are considering American Eagle Outfi tters Inc. was one of the top an investment vehicle, which holds about 67 percent of to boost employment in the fl agging construction sec- gainers on the New York Stock Exchange, soaring 11 the company. tor — could be counterproductive and exacerbate the percent to $21.86. Women’s apparel retailer Chico’s FAS Benetton chairman Luciano Benetton and chief ex- budget imbalance. Inc. also rose sharply, up 13.1 percent to $7.95, while ecutive Gerolamo Caccia Dominioni also bought a com- “The thing that [provides] the largest bang for the Talbots Inc. increased 7.6 percent to close at $7.51. bined 380,000 shares to counter the slump. Benetton buck is getting cash into households that spend money, Valuations also jumped for depart- quickly, including rebates for such households ment stores. After unveiling a structural and expanded unemployment benefi ts and overhaul of its business, Sears Holdings food stamps,” said Orszag, adding that busi- Corp. swelled 11.7 percent to close at ness incentives, such as a cut in corporate tax $99.85. Macy’s Inc. increased 5.2 percent rates or incentives for new investment, could to $24.25, J.C. Penney Co. Inc. rose 6.1 per- have a positive effect. cent to $43.42 and Kohl’s Corp. jumped From a trade fi nance perspective, an eco- 6.8 percent to close at $42.71. High-end nomic downturn in the U.S. is bad news for retailer Nordstrom Inc. rose 8.9 percent overseas vendors and manufacturers who to $32.52. are already feeling pressure from a tighter Shares of discounter Target Corp. in- credit market. creased 6.9 percent to $29.63, even though “When the United States sneezes economi- the company on Monday said January cally the world catches a cold and that is be- sales are trending at the low end of its re- ginning to be felt in the international trade duced forecast. Wal-Mart Stores Inc. also marketplace,” said Tony Brown, international jumped 3.3 percent to $49.13. managing director at First Capital, whose cli- On Wednesday, analysts and econo- entele typically consists of foreign suppliers. mists set aside the debate of whether Brown said, “There are some very plausi- the U.S. was in a recession or not and ble grounds to believe that we are approach- replaced it with questions on improving ing a recessionary environment. This is partly economic conditions. Infl ationary prices due to real estate problems, partly due to the on consumer goods, a poor job outlook, dollar and partly due to the fact that people low-wage growth and overall uncertainty in a presidential election year seemed to have sapped consumer confidence and spending, which drives two-thirds of the country’s economic engine. One economist said the focus should be on Investors have been the housing market. fl eeing the stock market “What we really want to do is stabilize on fears of a recession. housing by the peak spring selling season. Perhaps the most effi cient way to do that is getting mortgage yields as low as we can,” said John gained 3.4 percent to 8.50 euros, or $12.34, at Lonski, chief economist at Moody’s Investor Services. the end of trading on Tuesday. “Lower mortgage yields fi rm up home prices.” Armando Branchini, deputy chairman A mortgage yield is a measure of yield on a mortgage- of Milan-based luxury goods consultancy backed bond. Lonski said in the past when mortgage Intercorporate, said the downturn in the U.S. rates plunged, prices shot up, which contributed to the economy was not the only threat to European current housing crisis. But he said this is what’s needed luxury goods companies this year. The poor to stabilize the housing market. state of the Japanese economy over the last two Regarding the fi nancial stimulus efforts currently years, and the high value of the euro against being employed, which should benefi t the economy, the dollar and the yen were also worries. Lonski said such moves “won’t prevent recession, but it In Paris, PPR, the French retailer that should shorten its stay and lessen its severity.” owns Gucci Group, saw its stock tumble from “In the fi nal analysis, subpar consumer spending will a high of 118 euros, or $172.52, on Dec. 11 persist,” Lonski said. to 83.66 euros, or $122.31, on Monday, when From a broader Wall Street perspective, the Fed’s stocks across the Continent fell deep into the red. For are uncertain and they’re starting to keep money in rate cut may have been too little too late. At Tuesday’s its part, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s stock has their pocket rather than spend it. We are in a caution- opening, investors were keyed into declining indices in slid from above 84 euros, or $122.81, on Dec. 11 to 65.41 ary environment.” the major fi nancial markets on Monday, a trading holi- euros, or $95.63, on Monday. To add to the effect of reluctant consumerism, “there day in the U.S. On Tuesday, the Japanese Hang Seng Both stocks have been hit by the specter of slowdown is no more fat, we are into lean profi t margins and lean Index plummeted 8.7 percent to 21,757,63, reaching its as well as the rising value of the euro against the dollar manufacturing, and vendors are relying on buyers’ or- lowest point since Sept. 11, 2001. Components of the and the yen. PPR will report its yearly sales on Thursday, ders to be honored,” said Brown. index include contemporary apparel retailer Esprit while LVMH will report results in early February. Brown said overseas vendors are experiencing the Holdings Ltd., which fell 5.7 percent, and Li & Fung Ltd., Retailers equally have been hurt by signs of a slow- same credit crunch that is occurring in the U.S., es- which tumbled 7.2 percent. The Nikkei 225 dropped 5.7 ing economy in Europe, with most stores reporting weak pecially in the rapidly expanding China market. As a percent to 12,573.05, a new 52-week low. holiday sales and forecasting more diffi culty ahead. result, factories and exporters in China are struggling When the Fed made the rate cut announcement Most luxury and retail stocks in Europe rebounded to obtain the fi nancing they need to support the orders early Tuesday morning, investors initially shrugged on Tuesday on news of the U.S. rate cut. PPR bounded from American buyers. off the news. The sell-off continued but slowed as 5.3 percent to close at 88.07 euros, or $128.76, in trading Meanwhile, Kevin Sullivan, executive vice president trading progressed and investors weighed the emer- on the Paris Bourse, while LVMH gained 3.4 percent to at fi nancial services fi rm Wells Fargo, said more fash- gency measure. 67.60 euros, or $98.83. ion-focused segments will likely be at a greater risk dur- The London Stock Exchange’s FTSE 100 declined on The Fed’s action Tuesday was further evidence of ing an economic downturn. “If somebody is doing more Monday, losing 20 percent of its value compared with the growing concern over the health of the American of a fashion-oriented item, and it gets canceled, we’re the summer, but it rose Tuesday, closing up 2.9 per- economy. In Washington, the Bush administration and much more concerned about that,” Sullivan said, adding cent, while retail stocks showed some signs of recov- Congress continued to chip away at a compromise eco- that nonfashion related items aren’t as trend-driven and ery. Burberry Group plc shares closed up 2.2 percent at nomic stimulus package on Tuesday. Treasury Secretary seasonal, so pushing these types of orders back doesn’t 4.05 pounds, or $7.94, while Marks and Spencer Group Henry Paulson Jr. touted the outlines of the President’s affect either of the parties involved as drastically. plc rose 5.8 percent to 4.32 pounds, or $8.47. French proposed growth package in an address at the U.S. Sullivan said stylized garments are most diffi cult to Connection Group plc rose 1 percent to 99 pence, or Chamber of Commerce. sell in a subsequent season. In response to this, his cli- $1.94, while Mulberry Group plc was down 1.3 percent “Specifi cally, the President called for a robust package ents are making “more basic products.” to 1.71 pounds, or $3.35. that is large enough to have a real impact on our economy For Gary Wassner, president of factoring fi rm Hilldun British shoppers seem spooked from spending by a and will bolster consumer spending and business invest- Corp., the tightening credit market is more of a cash slowdown in house prices, higher food and energy costs ment this year,” said Paulson. “We know from experience fl ow issue than a bottom line issue. and the Bank of England’s decision earlier this month that both immediate tax relief for income tax payers and Wassner said he is hearing “that stores are pushing to leave interest rates unchanged. incentives for businesses to invest and hire are effective deliveries ahead by 30 or 60 days from when they origi- On Friday, the British Retail Consortium trade asso- in creating growth and jobs in the short term.” nally committed, but that’s a timing issue, it’s not a bot- ciation called the Christmas season “grim” for retailers, Bush unveiled a stimulus blueprint last Friday that tom line issue in the long run.” with year-on-year sales growth in December at 0.3 per- would include tax cuts for individuals and businesses. Later deliveries means cash fl ow woes for vendors. cent — its slowest rate in three years. He said any package would need to represent approxi- But is also means merchandise will eventually ship. 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 WWD.COM

GOT HER!: Hillary Clinton was careful enough to sidestep the pages of Vogue, but not enough WTO Calls for Pakistan to Increase to avoid Harper’s Bazaar. The senator pulled MEMO PAD out of a photo shoot with Vogue in the fall for fear of appearing too feminine, causing Transparency of Export Subsidies that magazine’s editor in chief, Anna Wintour, to write an editor’s letter voicing her disappointment. But Clinton appears alongside a model wearing a miniskirt and platform heels in a spread called “The Politics of By John Zarocostas Fashion” in Bazaar’s February issue. The spread also includes Mitt Romney, Fred Thompson (who dropped out of the race on Tuesday), Barack Obama, John Edwards, John McCain, Rudy Giuliani and Michael Bloomberg. GENEVA — Pakistan’s continued use of export subsidies for prod- So how did Bazaar get all those fast-traveling presidential candidates to stand around and pose with ucts such as textiles and apparel “opens the possibility of distorting models? Easy: the camera lies. Photographer Peter Lindbergh shot model Nadja Auermann near life-size cutouts competition, trade and production patterns,” according to a World of the candidates. The magazine bought the images for the cutouts from a photo agency. The lifelike shots Trade Organization report. look real enough at a quick glance, even the shot with Romney snacking on a doughnut as he answers Since the end of the global quota regime in 2005, the textiles and questions from a reporter (Auermann). apparel subsidies “have received priority” to help meet competi- And does Bazaar admit the shoot is a fake? Not really, although a spokeswoman for the magazine tion from other developing countries such as China and Vietnam, pointed out that a teaser under the story headline should tip the reader off. It reads: “They’re smart and the study said. savvy and have made for TV smiles, but can you believe everything you see?” Clinton is wearing a white The subsidies were also criticized by trading partners during pantsuit in the photos, an outfi t similar to a “niftily tailored white silk pantsuit by Francisco Costa for Calvin a WTO session that examined Pakistan’s trade regime. The South Klein” that Wintour suggests for Clinton in her editor’s note. Clinton’s camp had no comment on the Bazaar Korean delegation said the increase in export subsidy measures in photographs. — Stephanie D. Smith recent years “could complicate Pakistan’s trade regime and under- mine fair trade.” TOMMY’S BACK: Tommy Hilfi ger is returning to “The Oprah Winfrey Show” today, but it shouldn’t be as “We would like to request Pakistan to notify its export subsidies controversial as his fi rst appearance last year when he fi rmly defended his brand and its stance on racism. to the WTO in order to enhance the transparency of the scheme,” This time should be somewhat easier: The designer is part of a show themed “What Makes America, South Korean offi cials said. “This Pakistan has failed to do since its America.” Hilfi ger will be talking about inspirations for his recent book, “Iconic America” — a celebration of last review’’ in 2002. quintessential American iconography released in the fall. — S.D.S. The report said exporters of apparel, home textiles and footwear receive research and development subsidies of 3, 5 or 6 percent of CITY’S NEW RESIDENTS: Longtime creative director Fabrice Frere has moved on from City magazine to start his the value of the goods, but this will be reduced to a uniform 3 per- own agency, but City editorial director and publisher John McDonald — also the restaurateur responsible for cent rate this year. the newly refurbished 44 at the Royalton — has already found a successor. Eddie Brannan, who was until The review highlights that in 2006 textiles and apparel accounted 2006 creative director at BlackBook and was a founding editor of Trace, will have big shoes to fi ll: last for 66.4 percent of Pakistan’s total merchandise exports of $16.5 bil- year, the comparatively tiny City beat Vogue, W and Details for the ASME Award for Photo Portfolio, and lion. Between 2002 and 2006, about $6 billion was spent to modern- it also won for photography in 2004. McDonald has also added a fashion director, Julie Ragolia, who has ize and restructure much of Pakistan’s textiles and apparel sector, styled editorial for international editions of W and Vogue, among others, and who founded a fashion and art the WTO said, which included the importation of machinery, espe- publishing project called Playground. Frere will stay on the masthead as editor at large. — Irin Carmon cially for spinning and weaving. Under the current development plan, the study said the government is looking at another $20 billion ANOTHER HIRE: Teen Vogue associate publisher Alison Adler Matz was a favorite to be named publisher of the to $23 billion in investments for textiles and apparel. teen title, after a corporate reshuffl ing left the position vacant. But Glamour vice president and publisher WTO experts believe Pakistan stands to benefi t in the new Bill Wackermann, who this month was promoted to senior vice president, publishing director with additional quota-free era. While textile production is likely to expand, the oversight of the Bridal Group, roped Matz into Glamour’s sales force instead. Matz will become that apparel segment “may contract as it faces greater competition,” magazine’s associate publisher, and will help oversee the day-to-day sales operations. Prior to Teen Vogue, the report said. Matz was associate publisher at House & Garden and associate publisher at Wenner Media’s Us Weekly. A “So far, Pakistan has been unable to benefi t from the quota aboli- publisher, and now an associate publisher, for Teen Vogue have yet to be named. Meanwhile, Jamie Engel tion due to its high costs, low productivity and ineffi cient produc- has been named associate publisher of Details, replacing Marc Berger, who was named publisher of Men’s tion processes,” the study said. Vogue. — S.D.S. The government has launched an initiative to establish tex- tile and apparel centers in cites such as Karachi, Lahore and Faisalabad, where a public-private partnership aims to improve the infrastructure and attract foreign investment. Shahzada Alam Mannoo, Pakistan’s Minister for Commerce & Textiles, told WTO delegates that the economy has grown in the De la Renta Shop to Open in Atlanta in ’09 last fi ve years an annual rate in excess of 7 percent. Since 2002, Pakistan’s total trade has expanded annually by 18 percent and the scar de la Renta has set his sights on Atlanta California’s Orange average applied tariff rate is 14.5 percent, down from 20.4 percent Ofor his eighth freestanding store. Oscar de County, Atlanta is in 2001-2002. The designer said Tuesday that he plans to open la Renta a burgeoning area. Peter Allgeier, deputy U.S. trade representative, said Pakistan’s a two-level store in The Streets of Buckhead in fall Alex Bolen, chief growth “is in large part the result of improved economic policy 2009. The Streets of Buckhead is a $1.5 billion de- executive offi cer of making.” But he said “Pakistan could do even better” and urged velopment that will consist of 80 luxury boutiques, Oscar de la Renta, the country to enhance investor protection. The U.S. is the big- as well as three world-class hotels, up to 1,000 up- said, “As the fastest gest investor in Pakistan with about $1.2 billion in foreign direct scale residential units, restaurants, sidewalk cafes growing city in the investment, he said. Last year, bilateral trade between the U.S. and and 300,000 square feet of offi ce space. country, Atlanta is Pakistan totalled $5.9 billion, imports from Pakistan increased to De la Renta has secured a 2,850-square-foot a prime market for $3.6 billion and U.S. exports to $2.3 billion. space near the intersection of Buckhead Avenue our continued re- and Bolling Way. The designer’s clothing and ac- tail expansion.” cessories will be sold in the Atlanta store. Hermès, Etro, The decor, which will feature Dominican Bottega Veneta coral stone and high-gloss white anigre wood, and Loro Piana are will be in line with the interiors of his existing among the retail- Mizrahi in Fur Licensing Deal stores. A plaster palms mirror, dolphin center ers that will have table and ivory trellised chairs will be inter- boutiques in The iz Claiborne isn’t the only Claiborne tapped Mizrahi as spersed throughout. Streets of Buckhead, a site that will occupy Lapparel resource that has creative director last week. The designer plans to open his seventh eight acres wooed Isaac Mizrahi — the In an interview Tuesday, store next month in Costa Mesa, Calif. Like — Rosemary Feitelberg designer on Tuesday unveiled Goodman said Mizrahi’s new a fur licensing deal with collection will offer a fun take David Goodman, president of on fur instead of the serious Goodman Couture. tone that many designers have Mizrahi and Goodman have opted for. A few of his fur de- Europe, Russia Lead Aeffe Sales Rise collaborated in recent seasons signs will be shown on the and share a similar philoso- runway Feb. 6 when Mizrahi By Andrew Roberts percent to 22.1 million euros, or STAR segment for small compa- phy, according to the designer. stages his fashion show. $30.3 million, compensating for nies in July, closed down 3.2 per- Goodman learned the ropes Goodman has developed a fol- MILAN — Sales at Italian fash- declines in Japan and the United cent Monday to 1.85 euros, or $2.70 from his late father, Gus, who lowing for his featherweight ion group Aeffe SpA grew 10.2 States. Moschino continued as at current exchange — less than was known as the “Furrier to furs that can be worn on their percent in 2007 thanks largely to Aeffe’s mainstay with sales of half of their initial IPO price. the Designers,” and worked own or as layering pieces. He advances in Europe and Russia. 136.9 million euros, or $187.6 mil- Also Monday, Aeffe said it had with Norman Norell, Bonnie has also come up with such Aeffe, which operates the lion — a 9 percent hike — while signed a seven-year licensing Cashin, Adele Simpson, Oscar unlikely combinations as fur Alberta Ferretti, Moschino and Alberta Ferretti was the best per- deal with Elite Group SpA for de la Renta and Pauline and chiffon. Goodman said of Pollini brands, and produces col- former, leaping 19.4 percent to 63 the production and distribution Trigère, among others. In fact, Mizrahi, “They say nothing lections for Jean Paul Gaultier, million euros, or $86.4 million. of eyewear for Alberta Ferretti. the younger Goodman started is ever totally new in fash- on Monday reported 2007 full- The company did not break Elite already has a license out in the industry at the age ion but he is coming up with year sales of 293.2 million euros, down geographically sales fi g- for the Pollini brand. Alberta of 11 or 12 working summers ideas that have never been or $401.9 million at average ex- ures by brand. Ferretti’s fi rst collection of 16 for his father, running deliv- seen in furs.” change rates for the period. The “We are extremely satisfi ed eyeglasses and six sunglasses eries to various designers. The 24 fi ne furs and fur ac- fi gure excludes revenues from a with these results that comply will be unveiled at the Mido eye- In the early Nineties, Gus cessories pieces will launch stake in the Narciso Rodriguez with all our objectives at the be- wear fair in Milan in May. Goodman provided fur trims for fall 2008 in department brand, which Aeffe sold to Liz ginning of the year, despite the “The focus of the collection is for Mizrahi’s signature collec- stores, speciality stores and Claiborne Inc. in May. actual uncertainty of the global on shape, material and color, but tion. Over the years Mizrahi select fur salons. Wholesale Aeffe’s sales in Europe were economy,” said Aeffe chairman it’s quite minimal because I fi nd has had various fur licenses. prices will range from about up 11.2 percent on 2006 to 182.7 Massimo Ferretti. that excessive primping has had Mizrahi and Goodman $500 to $75,000. million euros, or $250.5 million. Shares in Aeffe, which listed its time,” the designer Alberta were in talks long before Liz — R.F. In Russia, they increased 68.8 on the Milan Stock Exchange Ferretti said. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 15 WWD.COM WWD West

On the Carpet, Maybe Cate Blanchett

Laura By Marcy Medina Linney LOS ANGELES — It’s usually the shot heard around the fashion world. But the writers’ strike, which scuttled the Golden Globes gala, loomed over the Oscar nominations and its red carpet on Tuesday. Despite the walkout and world economic upheaval, fashion houses, with fi n- gers crossed, began readying samples and sketches. In the midst of the couture shows in Paris and the upcoming ready-to-wear shows, most were noncommittal on the record. “If [the Oscars’ red carpet] is canceled, being one of the most important global events of the year, there will be less important red-carpet visibility for all designers,” said Donatella Versace, who usually dresses several major stars on the big day. “Of course, there will be more opportuni- ties to show Versace on celebrities, but the most important thing is that the problems are resolved and the movie industry can go back to work.” With this year’s crop of nominees, there also were rum- blings that presenters could be better fashion targets, along with nominees’ dates, such as Penélope Cruz, the girlfriend of best supporting actor nominee Javier Bardem. “We look at nominees and presenters as equal op- portunities for celebrity dressing,” said Malcolm Carfrae, Calvin Klein Inc.’s senior vice president of global communications. A spokesman for Michael Kors said, “We have been approached by people who plan to attend, and are actively pursuing several of the nominees. We are also anxious to see who will be presenting.” As pressure mounts to resolve the 12-week-old writ- ers’ strike that has crippled movie and television pro- duction, the Academy of Motion Picture Art and Sciences is moving forward with mapping out the awards show, to be broadcast live by ABC on Feb. 24. However, the academy is circumspect on contingency plans if the stars don’t appear be- cause of a picket line. The Writers Guild of America has waived picketing at Sunday’s Screen Actors Guild awards presentation. “I am very hopeful that a solution will be found because the evening has become a must for the movie business, but also for the fashion industry, which has an opportunity to show itself at its best, both on the red carpet and during the parties later in the evening,” Alberta Ferretti said. For YSL, the Oscars represent “an opportunity, but it doesn’t make or break us,’’ a spokesman said. “Yves Saint Laurent has never been that house that takes racks of clothing to an event to dress everyone. It’s about focused relationships,” such as the one the fashion house has with Julianne Moore. Double nominee Cate Blanchett has strong ties to Giorgio Armani, whom she wore last year as a presenter. Her stylist, Elizabeth Stewart, likely has a look in mind, but Blanchett is known for mixing it up with Givenchy, Rodarte, Valentino, Versace, Alexander McQueen and YSL. Apart from Blanchett, a best supporting actress winner for ▼

▲ “The Aviator” in 2005, the fi eld is open with new faces and Ellen Page fresh fashion choices. Best actress nominee Marion Cotillard, Best Actress who doesn’t work with a stylist, has worn her fair share of Chanel, a Cate Blanchett, “Elizabeth: The Julie house known for locking down actresses early in the game. But she was Golden Age” Christie in Nina Ricci at the recent Critics’ Choice awards here and wore Giorgio Julie Christie, “Away From Her” Armani to the European Film Awards in Berlin. Expect to see her in a Marion Cotillard, “La Vie en Rose” couture creation from a French design house. Laura Linney, “The Savages” Julie Christie, another best actress nominee who dresses herself, is a bit of Ellen Page, “Juno” an enigma because she hasn’t been a red-carpet regular of late, but she looked elegant and timeless at the National Board of Review awards in Manhattan. Best Supporting Actress Red-carpet regular and best actress nominee Laura Linney, who has Cate Blanchett, “I’m Not There” favored simple black, red and navy gowns from Prada and Valentino, Ruby Dee, “American Gangster” might look to change things this year. Saoirse Ronan, “Atonement” “The Oscars this year is the perfect place for her to look like the intel- Amy Ryan, “Gone Baby Gone” ligent, talented woman that she is,’’ said Linney’s longtime stylist Jane Tilda Swinton, “Michael Clayton” Ross. “Because it’s been an interrupted season, maybe this year is the time to have some fun and be a little irreverent. The best part about fabu- Best Costume Design lous clothes and Hollywood coming together is that it’s about having a “Across the Universe,” Albert Wolsky good time and not taking it so seriously. That’s how Laura feels, and that “Atonement,” Jacqueline Durran is what we are going to do.” “Elizabeth: The Golden Age,” Perhaps the biggest question mark is the fi fth and youngest best ac- Alexandra Byrne tress nominee, Ellen Page, 20. She recently started working with stylist “La Vie en Rose,” Marit Allen Samantha McMillen, who also dresses Charlize Theron. Page has worn “Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber Derek Lam and Dolce & Gabbana at the awards show rounds, but has yet of Fleet Street,” Colleen Atwood to step out in anything more than a simple knee-length gray or black cock- tail dress. Page has said she’s not much of a clotheshorse, so this could be Best Makeup her big opportunity to surprise. “La Vie en Rose,” Didier Lavergne In the supporting actress category, Blanchett is joined by fashion and Jan Archibald unknowns: Ruby Dee, 13-year-old Saoirse Ronan and Amy Ryan. Only “Norbit,” Rick Baker and Kazuhiro Tilda Swinton, who has a longtime relationship with Viktor & Rolf, is Tsuji almost sure to make a fashion-forward statement. Ryan will be working “Pirates of the Caribbean: At World’s with stylist Annabel Tollman, who has dressed Scarlett Johansson for the End,” Ve Neill and Martin Samuel Oscars and is known for adventurous choices that show off her clients’ best attributes. But as much as designers woo and prepare, and as much as everyone would like a crystal ball this instant, the choices that matter are made by the actresses at the 11th hour. Christian Lacroix, who dressed last year’s best actress winner Helen Mirren, said the house generally starts working with stylists the week of the Oscars. Stars are, after all, privy to whims. “It’s the stars who decide what they want to wear, not us who we want to dress,’’ Lacroix said. Marion Cotillard — With contributions from Allesandra Ilari and Luisa Zargani, Milan; Katya Foreman, Paris, and Marc Karimzadeh, New York BLANCHETT PHOTO BY DANIELE VENTURELLI/WIREIMAGE; CHRISTIE BY JIM SPELLMAN/WIREIMAGE;BLANCHETT TODD WILLIAMSON/WIREIMAGE; COTILLARD DANIELE VENTURELLI/WIREIMAGE; CHRISTIE BY BY PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER BY DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/WIREIMAGE; PAGE LINNEY BY 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

Creative Director- Director of Swim Design Established LA Women’s St. John Knits, a leading designer and manufacturer of luxury Ladies Accessories Swimwear design company is Sr. Technical Designer & Technical Designer women’s apparel, has immediate need for highly skilled Established accessories co. is seeking a qualified Director of PATTERNMAKERS in their headquarters located in Irvine, CA. seeking a talented and motivated Swim Design in our LA area office. Crosstown Traders, Creative Director to be based out a national leader in the direct mail catalog industry, Individuals will be responsible for First Design prototype pat- This position oversees the creative located in beautiful Tucson, AZ, has openings in Technical Design. of LA or NY. Oversees creative development of the swimwear terns as well as finalizing patterns for production. Must be development of the ladies belts & This exciting opportunity is for the individual who has a successful track adept at draping and be extremely detail oriented. Must also collection & maintains operational accessories seasonal collections excellence. record insuring consistent fit for product categories, anticipating and work well with others in a fast paced environment. Must have & maintains operational excellence. resolving pre-production and production problems, aptitude to fit and inter- proven experience in working directly with Designers. Must Ensures that product lines are Must have a Degree in Fashion pret fit and construction. Must have 3+ years experience in technical be able to instruct sewers in the making of the first sample. brought to market in a timely and Design or related field, 10+ design positions in women’s fashion apparel retailing or merchandising Candidates must have a minimum of seven years previous profitable manner. years exp in the apparel design industry leaders. Working knowledge of pattern making, garment experience in high quality products. Basic knowledge of com- field, Women’s swimwear or construction, exposure to garment manufacturing. Excellent computer puterized pattern making a plus, but not required. Must have 5 years exp. in lingerie experience, international & skills including PDM, AutoCad or other on-line specification packages. design/development & line building domestic production background, Our benefit package is competitive in the industry, including of ladies belts, handbags, and Visit www.Charming.com for more information. Vacation, 401(k) Plan, Employee Discount, Medical, Dental, and brand development, strong accessories. Exp. working with: leadership & management exp. Please submit resume to: Life Insurance and Relocation Allowance. Visit our website at both man-made materials and [email protected] or fax to: 520-750-0812 www.stjohnknits.com for more information. leather, overseas factories, all We offer a competitive Salary commensurate with experience. aspects of dev. including product compensation package and full Submit resume, salary history and requirements to: costing, must be strong leader, benefits. E-mail resumes to Garey Chambliss 2722 Michelson Dr., Irvine, CA 92612 Send resume to: [email protected] FAX: 949-266-0343 or E-mail: [email protected] [email protected]

PRODUCTION MGR $85-125K DENIM, KNITS, CASHMERE Growing Domestic Contemp Private Label Intimate and Sleepwear Sportswear Mfr in LA seeks Individual w/ Strong Experience. manufacturer group is seeking LA office based: E-mail: [email protected] KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS National Sales Manager For subscriptions, call 800-289-0273 or visit our website Min. 5 yrs exp & strong relationships with major retailers. Excellent communication skills & self-motivation & team working.

Please email resume & salary requirements to: [email protected] WWD.COM WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 17 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

SEEKING GROWTH? Serious Investor: good education, business experience, and ready financing, is eager to invest in a small, est’d. business in a hands-on capacity. Send inquiries to: JOBBER/EXPORTER P.O. Box 3626, New Hyde Park, NY 11040 We buy better goods. All categories, including fabrics. Immediate $$. Please call 212-279-1902

Proven Skin Care Product Seeking an Angel Investor. Please con- tact Melody Appleton at (510)823-6072 or [email protected]

CELEBRITY BOOKER Our agency is at the forefront of global brand strategy, model management and talent discovery, and expertly oversees the careers of the world’s top models, celebrities and brands. • Must have Model/Talent booking exp. Has moved to 1400 B’way (28th • Knowledge of the industry including fl) 19,000 sq ft and we are expand- advertising agency and contacts at brands, knowledge of the celebrity ing in the following areas: 1407 BROADWAY market and relationships with industry. SALES SHOWROOMS/OFFICES • Work to drive and build upon current TREBOR MGMT celebrity activities and opportunities Jr Bottoms Sales Exec. Must have Bob Forman 212-944-6094 x 314 Deal directly with celebrity clients and strong Dept Store contacts. corporate customers on a daily basis. 2K SQ. FT. BASEMENT / $3K PER MO. Coordinating travel, hotel arrangements Private label Sales Exec for Jrs, 38th Between 7th & 8th; Ideal for storage; and logistics for clients and establish Missy, and Kids. Merchandiser hi-ceilings; freight elevator; secure bldg. marketing and promotional pieces, up- Accessable Mon. - Fri.; 9am - 5pm dating and maintaining division materials. DESIGNERS LAGOS a luxury designer jewelry brand, has a NY based opportunity Call: 212-944-7040 x 303 Position is based in NY office. Junior and Missy Denim designer. for an experienced Merchandiser. Responsibilities include in-store E-mail or fax resumes to: New Jersey - Share Space Available [email protected] / 646 432 7512 3-5 years exp in related field. Ex- merchandising, store management relations, sales associate training. Clean/Safe/lots of Windows Execute trunk shows, communicate store needs to AE. Track sales and +/- 500 sq’ office +/- 500 sq’ warehouse cellent Illustrator and Photoshop skills. inventory levels. Required travel NY metro to North Carolina territory. + common areas - $1,500.00 mo. Send resumes with SALARY REQUIREMENTS to Call Tom: 732-715-3525 PRODUCTION COORDINATOR [email protected] or FAX to 215.925.0831. Customer Service/ Must have 2-3 years exp in denim, No phone calls please. Admin Asst/ Billing Must be organized & detailed. Rapidly growing designer co.seeks E-mail or fax your resume and well spoken indv with mgmt capability. DESIGNER PRODUCT DEVELOPERS Job resp incl order entry, credit approval, salary requirements to: Target/Federated/Victorias Secret Accounts Receivable shipping docs, customer svc, liaison w/ [email protected] or 212-382-3047 and *Product Execution Sr Director $250K INTIMATE APPAREL Midtown apparel co. seeks person salesperson. Candidate must have ASSOCIATE/ASSISTANT *Product Execution Sr Manger $125-180K experienced with Factoring, C/B reso- prev.apparel exp with all facets Midtown * Product Execution Manager $60-90K SHOWROOM NEEDED lution, assignments, collections, post- loc. Exc.salary & growth oppty. DESIGNER Major Vertical Mass Merchant ing cash and credit card transactions. Reply:[email protected] Starting Up New Division International intimate apparel Data entry and weekly/monthly report Private Label Sportswear Importer [email protected] 212-947-3400 manufacturer looking to lease reconciliations are also required. Com- First Patternmaker seeks professionals to expand our puter literacy is a must and communi- Ladies’ Apparel Co. seeks 1st Pattern company. space on Madison Ave. Requires cation skills, both written and verbal maker w/exp. in jackets, pants, skirts, We welcome independent, organized, Production Assistant are essential. and tops in both woven & knit. Draping self-motivated & highly responsible Garment Importer from India/China, reception area and showroom knowledge req’d. Fax to: 212-768-1065 or candidates who are good team players based on 1407 Broadway, looking for Please send resume to: with strong communications skills. plus stock area. Immediate oppor- [email protected] Design E-mail: [email protected] an energetic, qualified, exp’d & team Email resumes and salary history to work oriented individual for Knits & tunity. Call: (718) 482-0100 x249 Assist Tech Manager [email protected] with position Woven. To input orders, send out sam- Well established fast growing title in subject. pling & tech packages, follow up pro- Administrative Assistant Sweater/Knit Vertical Private Label duction approvals. Must be computer Leading Girls Dress manufacturer Producer seeks Asst. to Tech Manager. literate and willing to work with com- seeks self motivated and well organ- Must have strong organizational and Fit Model/Admin. Asst. mitment. Reference req’d. Fax or E-mail ized person to assist Exec Sales Person. comm skills, self motivated, can multi- CACHE, seeks an in-house Fit Model / resume to: 212-398-2562 Strong customer service and follow-up task/function in fast paced environment, Administrative Assistant to handle fittings PATTERNMAKER [email protected] skills required. Must feel comfortable open minded to learn new things. Must & light paper work. Previous experience Major apparel company seeks individual speaking with buyers on a daily basis. be computer literate/Excel. 1-2 yrs preferred but not necessary. Req’d. strong in garment construction and Computer skills are a must. tech design preferred but not essen- measurements are: MISSY: Size 8; with knowledge of draping for girls 7-16 Production Assistant Please fax resume to: (212) 967-4915 tial. Ideal for person looking to Height - 5’8"; Chest - 36"; Waist - 28"; pattern making position. Must be able further their career. Please fax or Hip - 38½". Please forward resume to Well organized individual. 2-5 yrs exp. to make first pattern from design communicate w/factory, issue cut e-mail resume to: 212-242-4418 / Racula at: [email protected] or sketch and also production pattern. Admin Since 1967 [email protected] contact: 646-366-6482 tickets, order & follow up on Gerber Grading Machine Must have exp. with Lectra Modaris fabric/trim and garment flow. Strong 2006 make, rarely used, all reasonable W-I-N-S-T-O-N and ability to work in fast-paced envi- computer skills a must. Please fax offers will be considered. ronment. E-mail resumes to: resume to 212-768-3680 or email Contact: Michael 212-246-7955 APPAREL STAFFING DESIGNER...... $100-15OK [email protected] [email protected]. DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Intimates H/W Gap Body * JOBS *JOBS *JOBS * ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 *Artist Girls- Boys-Jrs. - Mens- $HI [email protected] *Artist Girls N-I-T Soft Hands - Prints www.srisearch.com Planner/Inventory PRODUCTION *Designer Boy I-20 Sportswear Luxury home textile company is look- Canine Accessories Co. seeks individual *Designer Girl I-16 Sportswear ing for a Planner to manage wholesale w/ 3-4 years production experience. *Designer yg Men/8-20 Denim Bottoms inventory levels and perform in-depth Follow up w/ Target & Wal-mart accts. Contemporary Knitwear *Designer Assistant-Tech Packs- Kids sales analysis and reporting. Issue all Experience with BV & CTL testing Designer/Producer w/office in Shanghai ASSISTANT DESIGNER DESIGNERS *Designer-Assist-Assoc Boy-Girl-Jr. PO’s and work with production and labs preferred. Overseas travel exp has beautiful collection ready to sell. Designer w/strong tech skills for *Designer-Jr Swimwear $65-75K *Designer Jr. Urban i.e Miss Sixty-Roxy import dept to insure timely ship required. Must have excellent commu- Would like to start a new div. w/est’d. co. Childrens mfr. Must have ability to *Dsgnr Asst-Runway.Bi-ling Ital a +$45K *Graphic Mgr- kids sports- CS3 In Design dates. Min 5yrs planning experience nication skills, be detail oriented and Please call Lou Nardi at: 646-248-1193 create Illustrator flats, tech packs, *Designer Assist-Swimwear $30-35K *Merchandising Assistant 1+ Yrs Exp and extremely proficient in Excel. Ex- highly organized. Excel a must. Fax or E-mail: [email protected] specs, track samples, update charts, & *Calif Designers-Better Contemp $$$$$ *Production MGR-Assist-Coordinators-$HI perience with GreatPlains, Crystal a Email resume & salary req. to: comm. daily w/fctys. 30-35k. Email resume [email protected] 212-947-3400 *Production Coords or Asst-Biling Chinese major+. $75k+bonus, full benefits. 646-486-1336 / [email protected] [email protected] *Product Assist or Coord Lab Dips Submit to [email protected] *Sales Sr. Exec-Kids Licensing Mid Tier $HI *Technical Designers & Assistants $HI DESIGNER Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 Asst. Tech Designer / Seeking exp. contemporary Sweater Production Coord. Asst. Designer in all aspects of line develop- Men’s & boyswear Co. seeking individ- Fit Model ment: sketching, illustration, tech uals with 2-3 years exp. to assist with all CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING Must fit women’s size 8-10 garments. pack, and CADs. Must be detail oriented GMT production needs. Review samples U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 Proficiency in Outlook, Word, and Excel w/strong sense of color/trend. E-mail Marker Maker/Grader for fit & qlty. Some tech. knowledge rqd. www.sanodesignservices.com required, along with the ability to handle resume to: [email protected] Major apparel co seeks individual with Fax resume to: (212) 629-3506 or E-mail: multiple tasks simultaneously and stay experience using the Lectra Diamino P.R. Execs $50-150K [email protected] Attn Mr. W PATTERNS, SAMPLES calm under pressure. E-mail resume to: marker maker and grader. Must know Acct. Execs $40-150K AND PRODUCTION [email protected] garment construction and fabric. Fast Human Resource Mgrs. $80-100K Cut & Sew TD , Knits/woven. USA & DSGNR SR - INF ACCESS TO 90 K paced environment and excellent benefits. Designers (many areas) $40-150K overseas China. Call Brenda @ Est’d access co seeks exp’d individ for E-mail resumes: [email protected] e-Commerce Mgrs. $60-125K Production Coordinator (718) 539-2475 or Infants gift sets, diaper bags. Major apparel co seeks Production Email: [email protected] BUYER - Multi-Store Freelance and Fulltime positions coordinator with knowledge Wal-mart A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. available!!! CTL testing procedures. Responsibilities Patterns/Samples/Production & Assistant BUYER 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 212-268-6123 include pre-production tracking, creating Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening A Nose For Clothes, FL/GA retail chain, Please email resumes to: seasonal design books, and providing Gowns custom made & wholesale. seeks Buyer to work at Miami HQ. [email protected] administrative support to team. Candidate MERCHANDISERS for freelance opportunities: Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Must have 5+ yrs. exp. as a multi-store Target/Federated/Victorias Secret must be proficient in excel, detail oriented, Buyer of upscale contemp. women’s [email protected] and posses excellent communication * Merchandise Director $250K www.fourthfloorfashion.com fashions; travel to U.S. markets. Please * Merchandise Senior $125-180K skills. E-mail resumes to: Patterns/Samples/Production Fax resumes to: 305-253-8949 or E-mail * Merchandise Manager $60-90K [email protected] Full Service, Fine, Fast Work. to: [email protected] Major Vertical Mass Merchant Any Style Starting Up New Division Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 FASHION CAREER OPPORTUNITIES [email protected] 212-947-3400 Ileen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Buyer’s Assistant Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386 El Corte Inglés New York, Inc., wholly Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 PRODUCTIONS owned subsidiary of El Corte Ingles, S.A., All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Spain, the largest Department Store in [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Spain is looking for a Buyer’s Assistant www.raskinexecsearch.com for our New York Office. Candidate must PATTERNS, SAMPLES, have 2-3 years of experience in the Fashion/Apparel industry with emphasis Operations Manager PRODUCTIONS on Apparel. Bilingual Spanish/English a Contemporary Sportswear co. seeks Mgr Full service shop to the trade. must. Computer skills req’d. Competitive FASHION RECRUITER $$$$$$$ w/3-5 yrs exp. in operations/ distribution Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Salary & Benefits. Please send resume Apparel background a must. Must have & allocation, Pick tkts, Factoring, In- to: [email protected] Fashion Recruiting exp. Wholesale /Retail. voicing. UPC’s/EDI, System is Visual [email protected] 212-947-3400 2000. [email protected] 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008

PRODUCTION MGR $125K Bettr Contemp Runway Dsgnr. Strong Technical Designer DOM & Int’l Prod’n Sourcing & Costing. Knitwear PRODUCTION MGR $100K+ Fast growing Missy Contemp Knitwear Mail Order. Work w/ India & China. Co. seeks TD w/ 3+ yrs exp w/ both Cost, Source & T&A Sweaters and Cut & Sew knits. [email protected] 212 947-3400 Respon include creating first spec thru to prod, full fitting w/ comments. Must be detail oriented able to work fast- ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE paced environment. Excellent computer Recognized as a global leader of women’s contemporary fashion, BCBG Max Azria PRODUCTION PATTERNMAKER skills, emphasis on Photo-shop, Illust, Group continues to grow and diversify. With an international vision of Bon Chic, Bon Exciting opportunity to head a new Evening/Bridal Mfr. seeks highly skilled Excel, Web PDM. Good written & verbal F/T Patternmaker w/min. 5 years exp. skills. Great atmosphere & benefits! Genre (French for Good Style, Good Attitude), BCBG Max Azria Group maintains the men’s robe & loungewear division. and extensive technical knowledge, Fax resume to: 212-221-1353 highest standards in creativity, quality and innovation - in its product offering, operations Candidate must have min. 5-10 including construction. Benefits. Fax or E-mail resume w/salary requirements to: and staff. The Group’s vast portfolio of over 15 brands encompasses a retail and whole- years experience in men’s apparel 212-971-8682 / [email protected] Technical Designer sale network of more than 9,000 points of sale in over 45 countries on 5 continents. With and established strong relation- Missy apparel Co. seeking 5yrs+ expe- more than 10 offices around the globe, our worldwide team is integral to the company’s RECEPTIONIST/ rience in Technical Design. Both fully ships with key department and fashion knits and woven. Excellent successful expansion. We are currently seeking creative, talented and dynamic individu- mid-tier stores. Must be self- SALES ASSISTANT working atmosphere, 401K and medi- als to join our growing workforce of over 10,000 employees. Major Apparel company seeks full cal ins. Bilingual/Chinese would be motivated and goal orientated with time receptionist/sales assistant. Indi- helpful. Salary commesurate with exp. vidual must be poised with excellent Please email resumes to: great communication and organiza- communication skills as well as pre- [email protected] THE FOLLOWING EXCITING OPPORTUNITIES ARE AVAILABLE, tional skills. sentation appropriate for a showroom. LOCATED AT OUR GLOBAL HEADQUARTERS IN LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA: Must be able to work in fast paced TECHNICAL DESIGN Please respond by email to: environment and able to provide Private label and branded knitwear co. prompt customer service as necessa- seeks Asst. Tech designer w/ 2-3 years [email protected] ry. Receptionist will manage front exp. Duties incl: specs, lab dips, CORPORATE MERCHANDISER - desk as well as provide assistance to fittings, follow-up. Excel, Photoshop a sales people. Excellent benefits! must. Good benefits/401K. Send re- PLEASE E-MAIL RESUMES TO: sume: [email protected] DRESSES OR ACCESSORIES [email protected] TECH SPEC ASSIST Great Opportunity! Leading Women’s Must participate in design concept meetings; communicate design/brand vision; analyze Active Wear Knit Co seeks organized data and deliver suggested sku contents, color history and category plans. Must have mini- SAMPLEMAKERS Spec Tech to assist with fittings, daily mum 5 years related merchandise buying or planning experience and working knowledge Midtown Evening/Bridal Mfr. seeks high- communication with overseas fty, cre- National Sales Manager ly skilled F/T Samplemakers w/exp. in ate tech packs, generate fit comments, of the women’s contemporary market in dresses or accessories; intimate knowledge of National sales manager for Velvet, Bridal/Eveningwear. We offer a great must possess tech knowledge. brand vision, market pulse, fashion forecasting, competitors/designers, store content and work environment & competitive salary Bilingual/Chinese a plus. Great co. & high-volume t-shirt line, to grow w/benefits. Call: 212-971-0170 ext. 44 or pkg. Pls fax res & sal req.212-354-3051 selling. Job code - Dresses: 07-862, Accessories: 07-867. Fax resumes to Sylvia at: 212-971-8682 sales regionally and with major stores. Based in NY, with travel to Seamstress Textile Cad Artist TO APPLY: Qualified candidates, please submit your resume to Expert in Photoshop 2 + years LA. Min. 5 yr industry experience, exp, textile design skills a must. Sal + ben. Fax resume 212-947-4501 [email protected] must have deptartment store exp. Fitter/Seamstress/Tailor Email: [email protected] Resumes to: Seeking a senior couture fitter/ seam- BCBG Max Azria Group is an equal opportunity employer. To view all of our current career [email protected] stress. Must have 5 years experience fitting high-end couture garments and VP Int’l Sourcing opportunities, please visit our company’s career section at www.bcbg.com. have great communication skills with Live In Hong Kong - Paid Relo clients. Fax resume to: (212) 869-5795 or *VP Int’l Sourcing-Better Mkt $150-200K E-mail: [email protected] *VP Int’l Sourcing-Childrens $150-200K with subject: FITTER *VP Int’l Sourcing-Lingerie $150-200K [email protected] 212-947-3400

Spec Tech Assistant Spec Tech Assistant needed to help with pre-production process, with 1-2 yrs experience, to help with T/P, fittings, and taking accurate specs. Must have Selling Specialist knowledge of garment construction and grading. We are looking for a LAGOS, a luxury jewelry brand has an exciting opportunity for a PT team player that must have strong Selling Specialist representing our collection at Bloomingdales 59th communication, computer & excel skills. Street and Lexington Avenue, in New York. Ideal candidate will have Email resume to: experience in sales with luxury or upscale retailers or boutiques. Must [email protected] Subject header: Spec Tech provide full service selling and develop repeat business by maintaining a client file. Outstanding customer service and merchandising skills SPEC TECH required. Experience in fine jewelry preferred. Must be friendly, Great opportunity! Great company! professional and able to work a flexible PT schedule to include Leading Intimate Apparel Mfg. seeks nights and weekends. exp’d & highly organized Spec Tech for Interested candidates should send their resumes with Ladies, Men’s & Kids products. Resp incl. daily communication w/ overseas SALARY REQUIREMENTS to [email protected] or fax to office & factories. Runs fittings w/ the 215.925.0831. No phone calls please. ability to translate changes necessary to specifications. Must possess technical knowledge, flat sketching and be com- puter literate. Strong follow-up and analytical skills, along w/ bra exp man- datory. Knowledge of spec/design pkgs SPECIALTY STORE SALES ACCOUNT EXEC mandatory. Exp with Wal-Mart, JCP & Kmart a plus. Email your resume This opportunity is available for results driven, self- to: [email protected] or Fax Attn: motivated sales executives that have 3-5 years experience in R. Farrell (212) 842-4032. EOE specialty store sales. Must have established relationships Spec Tech and developed contact lists in at least one territory of the Major apparel co seeks spec tech with United States in better contemporary/designer sportswear men’s, children’s and athletic experience. and dresses . Strong organizational, and computer skills are req’d. Ideal candidate will have garment con- struction & technical design exp. Will be working with design & production EMAIL RESUME TO : teams when necessary. Must be profi- cient in excel and technical sketches. [email protected] Wal-mart experience a plus. E-mail resumes to: [email protected] SPEC TECHNICIAN/ TECH DESIGNER SALES EXECUTIVE Established Active Sportswear and Jr. Sportswear Co. seeking Outerwear Co. seeking an experienced individual to evaluate sample develop- Director of Sales aggressive, highly motivated, ment through final production. Must Seeking motivated individual with results driven self-starters have fitting, grading, garment construc- with positive work attitude tion, specing, overseas communication 10+ yrs related experience. Must skills and sewing knowledge. Team and proven track record of oriented environment excellent have strong following with better growing biz & opening new compensation & benefits package. Dept & Specialty stores. Detail- accts. Salary commensurate Fax resume w/ salary requirements to: 646-364-9750 oriented & extremely organized. w/exp. Amazing opportunity Please email resumes to: for gifted sellers looking to TDs-WOVENS/KNITS/SWEATERS grow in a Co. with unlimited * TD-Full Fashion Knits $80-125K [email protected] * TD-Jeans/Denims $75K potential. E-mail resume to * TD-Cut & Sew Knits $70K [email protected] or Fax * TD-Wovens $55-85K * Spec Techs $38-52K resume to: 212-768-7261 * TDs Freelance Wovens/Knits NY/NJ $30-50/hr [email protected] 212-947-3400 TECH DESIGNER DENIM - SALES DIRECTOR Major blouse importer seeks indiv to DL1961 Premium Denim is looking assist head mdse with design. Must to appoint Sales Director to build flat sketch, create tech pac. for 1st International Sales sample, and communicate with orient. and lead a team of Sales Agents. Dwellstudio, a luxury home and de- Computer skills are necessary (PDM, Must have 3-5 years experience in sign brand, is looking for an experi- Illustrator, Photoshop). Salary based enced int’l sales exec to manage cur- on exp. Fax resume: (212) 768-7973 similar position. E-mail resume & rent and procure new distributors for salary history: [email protected] home, baby and private label. Candi- date must have strong exp selling Technical Designer design-oriented product and min 7yrs Candidate must be organized & detail wholesale sales exp. Must have strong oriented, and have min. 3 years sweater communication skills, initiative and be exp. with strong knowledge of sweater results oriented. Base+commission, construction. Fax or E-mail resumes to: EXPERIENCED full benefits. Submit resume to: 212-921-0082 / [email protected] [email protected] SALESPERSON Technical Designer Denim Sportswear company looking for expe- To $75K. Min 5 years exp w/ Pattern rienced sales person with 5 years or Making & garment construction. Con- more following in sweaters, novelty duct Fittings, spec comments & Orient jackets and outerwear. Department Communication. Some dom travel. and Specialty Store following a must. Mackage is seeking an Account Executive Denim bottoms & knit tops exp + Fast growing company. with a minimum of 2 years experience. MS Office req’d. Illus is a plus. E-mail resume to Send your resume to [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] For more information on the collec- KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS or fax 212-302-5184 tion, visit www.mackage.com WWD, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2008 19

TOP NOTCH SALES Search hundreds of positions in Missy Better Sweater Co. seeks highly aggressive & highly motivated individual w/Dept./Chain Store following. Complete fashion, retail and beauty. knowledge of running roadforce is a plus. E-mail resume: [email protected], or call Charman at: 212-302-0444 UNITED FABRICS INT’L FABRIC SALES PRO L.A. based importer-converter of sol- ids, yarn dyed, novelties and prints seeks sales professionals. If you are aggressive and have prior textile sales exp., please fax resume to(213) 749-8300 or E-mail at [email protected]

VP of Sales - T-shirts T-shirt Mfr. seeks dynamic, results driven VP of Sales. Qualified candidate must have strong relationships with Dept. & Chain Stores. Min. 10 years experience. E-mail resume & expected salary to: [email protected]

Children’s Wear Exp’d. Sales Rep wanted for New Child- ren’s Mod/Better Line Girls: 4-6X, 7-14. E-mail us at: [email protected]

Independent Sales Reps L.A. based Ladies Apparel Co., Devine Junior Sportswear & Outerwear, is seek- ing Independent Sales Reps throughout U.S.A. Must have experience and direct contacts w/Dept., National Chain, and Specialty Stores. Fax or Email resumes to: 626-588-2292 / [email protected]

Sales Rep Women’s moderate update sportswear seeks commissioned Salesperson with strong Dept./Chain Store contacts. Also seeking Rep with same contacts for novelty, promo-priced tee shirt line. Fax resume to: 212-730-7481 Retail Sales Work RETAIL SALES PEOPLE, HOSTS, STOCK PERSONNEL & CASHIERS Prestigious, upscale retail client MUST be reliable, dedicated, & friendly Retail experience preferred Open Interviews @ The Source Mon through Fri 10am to 1pm SALES EXECUTIVE Sales / Admin. Asst. New York based moderate missy 295 Madison Ave. 16th Fl. Est’d. East Side Carriage Trade Jeweler Contact Janet or Russell 212-949-8287 blouse line is seeking a strong, experi- seeks organized person w/strong whole- enced sales executive. Must have sale / retail exp. Call Ta: 212-921-9452 x 15 strong relationships with department and chain store retailers. Must also be able to pioneer new accounts, and be a Dynamic Accessory self starter. Great growth potential. SALES e-mail:[email protected] Please email or fax resume to: President: Retail Director/Jewelry exp $100-130k [email protected] or 212-768-8018 Well Connected at Headquarter Level Key Holder/Hi-French design $35k+ Mid Tier & Mass: Call: 609 519 0209

PATTERNMAKER / TECH DESIGNER Production Coordinator Sales Help Wanted Very experienced; ladies sportswear / Hi-end accessory co. seeks very exp’d SALES EXECUTIVE dresses / denim & catalogue production Production Coordinator. Candidate Established NYC based Growing branded and Private Label Sportswear and Dress Co. seeks Sales- patterns / draping / table & computer. mustbe extremely organized with a Importer of hosiery, lingerie, slippers NY Cell: 646-217-2590 Home: 212-689-1840 min. of 6 yrs exp. in the apparel or & flip flops seeks creative, energetic person with contacts and 1 Sales Asst. accessory industry. Job requires daily Salesperson. Must have a following with minnimum of 2 years experience. correspondence with overseas factories, with chain stores & discounters. E-mail: [email protected] issuing P.O.s, tracking & consolidating Please fax Resume to: 212.239.1448 imports from India & Asia. Candidate Sales Manager...... $150- 200K must have excellent computer, Intimates to Mass Merchants communication and problem solving SALES EXECUTIVE Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 skills. Excellent opportunity & [email protected] compensation for a highly organized Great Opportunity!!! www.srisearch.com person with a great attitude. Please Est print/textile company seeks an send resumes to: E - m a i l : exp’d motivated sales exec. must have [email protected] / fax: (212) 695-8803. existing contacts in the apparel industry . Salesperson Minimum of 5 yrs experience, salary Sportswear / Denim Mfr Seeks dynamic, commensurate w/experience. E-mail highly motivated individual w/Good For subscriptions, call 800-289-0273 or visit our website Sales Account Executive resume and salary requirements to: Communication skills, client base and [email protected] follow-up in Junior, Missy, and Large ADRIENNE LANDAU Sizes. 3 - 10 yrs exp in ladies apparel pref- Leading designer company seeking erable. Salary commensurate w/exp, SALES EXECUTIVE. Must have Email resume to [email protected] strong, established retail relationships SALES EXECUTIVE with specialty and department stores. High-profile designer eveningwear co. Must be organized, detailed, motivated, looking for exp’d account executive. Sales Rep experienced and enthusiastic. Must have active account list and estab- WWD.COM lished contacts in designer domestic and Infant clothing co. is seeking showroom E-mail resume & salary requirements to: overseas market. E-mail resume to: sales rep. Good benefits, good future. [email protected] [email protected] E-mail resume: [email protected]