f C 4i;l, HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF

(( xmr^m. ALBERTA

WHOOP-UP COUNTRY. CHAPTER

Number 1 NEWSLETTER February, 1974

Membership in the Whoop-up Country Chapter, Historical Society of Alberta, including a sub­ scription to the quarterly Alherta Histoviaal Review, newsletters, and'notice of meetings, can be obtained for $4.00 per year. Send membership fees to: Mrs. Lucille Dalke, Treasurer, Whoop-up Country Chapter, P. 0. Box 974, Lethbridge, Alberta TIJ 4A2 SOCIETY OFFICERS FOR 1973-1974 President Al&x Johnston, Marquis Hotel Past President Frank A Russell. Box 326 Vice President Carlton R Stewart, 1005-23rd St N Secretary Dr R A Lacey, 1912 - 14 St So Treasurer Mrs Lucille Dalke, 638-9th St So Council Member (1976) - Clarence Geiger, 1265-5th Av A So Council Member (1976) - Ray Schuler, 2630-22nd Av So Council Member (1975) - Andrew Staysko, 1404-9th St A So Council Member (1975) - R I Baker, Box 14, Coaldale Council Member (1974) - A H L Somerville, 1312-15th St So Council Member (1974) - Vacant Social Convener Mrs Nora Everson, 507 Balmoral Hse Social Convenor Mrs Wyn Myers, 1236 - 5th Av A So

MARCH MEETING The March meeting of the Whoop-up Country Chapter, Historical Society of Alberta, will be held in the Assembly Room of the Sir Alexander Gait Museum on Tuesday, March 26th, at 8:00 p.m. Guest speaker will be Judge L. S. Turcotte who will speak on "The History of the Chinook Club, Lethbridge." Born in Quebec, Judge Turcotte came with his parents to Lethbridge in 1912 and attended St, Basil's School and Bowman High School here. In 1921 he received his BA from the University of Alberta and in 1924 was awarded his bachelor of laws degree at the University. He articled in Edmonton and was admitted to the bar in 1925. He practiced law for several years at Vegreville, then at Cardston until 1936 when he moved to Lethbridge. He served in the Reserve Army during the war becoming a captain in 1945. In 1944 he was elected alderman on the Lethbridge city council and served as both alderman and mayor until 1955 when he was appointed district court judge. He ran as a Liberal candidate in federal elections in 1945 and 1949. He has been active in a number of provincial and southern Alberta councils. Including the water conser­ vation council, and has been appointed to several provincial enquiry commissions. In 1968 Judge Turcotte was elected the first (Chancellor of the University of Lethbridge, an office he held until 1971. In 1969 he was appointed Chief Judge of the District Court of the district of Southern Alberta, succeeding Judge E. B. Felr. The district of southern Alberta extends from Red Deer south and has nine district Judges. New OrRanizatlon Formed "Whoop-up Country", in Indian Battle Park, has been taken_over from the Kinsman Club by a new organization, the Whoop-up Country Historical Society. /We may say in passing that there has already been some confusion of the Whoop-up Country Historical Society and the Whoop-up Country Chapter of the Historical Society of Alberta, with members of the latter thinking that a meeting of the former was of interest to them_^/ "Wl»oop-up Country" operates a mine railroad, the replica of Fort Whoop-up, and various concessions in the riverbottom area. If interested in the recreational and historical aspects of our riverbottom area you can become a member of the new organization upon the payment of $2.00 annual dues. Send to: Whoop-up Country Historical Society, P. 0. Box 1074, Lethbridge, Alberta. Dr. Arnie Locatelll was elected President of the new organlzationj Mrs. M. Lynch-Staunton was elected Secretary, while Directors include Cleve Hill, Rick Patterson, Alex Johnston, and others. A meeting of the Society will be called sometime in March. Watch for notice of meeting in the Herald and over QlEC and CJOC. ******* Annual Meeting of Historical Society Poorly Attended Delegates from the Whoop-up Country Chapter to the Edmonton meeting of the Historical Society of Alberta included Alex Johnston, Carlton Stewart, Miss J, Melnychuk, and James H. Carpenter. The meeting, which was the provincial annual meeting of the Society, was poorly attended with only about 30 persons there. Fortunately, there was nothing of a controversial nature brought forth at the meeting. In fact, there was relatively little business of any sort although the meeting managed to expand to fill the time available for its completion. One never ceases to be amazed at the inane items that some speakers bring up on such occasions. The evening banquet was well attended, with 260 sitting down to an excellent meal. George McClellan, retiring Ombudsman, was the guest speaker and did his usual competent job. He received a well-deserved standing ovation at the completion of his speech. Next year's annual meeting will be held in Calgary. ^ ******* Andy den Otter to Speak at University Andy den Otter, Associate Professor of History, Memorial University, St. John's, Newfoundland, will speak at the University of Lethbridge on March 7th at 8:00 p.m. in C674. Members of the Historical Society have received a cordial invitation from the History Department to go and hear Mr. den Otter. We should explain that Mr. den Otter is a graduate of the History Department, University of Alberta, and only recently accepted the position in Newfoundland. He did his M.A. and Ph.D. theses on the Gait enterprises in southern Alberta and has become an authority on the subject. Since the history of the Gait enterprises and the history of Lethbridge are one and the same up to about 1910, his talk is a must for those interested in the subject. The title of his March 7th talk is "The Two Faces of Lethbridge in the 1880's", a discussion of the unsuccessful efforts by various merchants and mine officials to create a small Ontario town on the banks of the Belly River at Lethbridge. ******* Mounted Police Conference Part of Alberta's 1974 Salute to the Mountles is an historical conference to be held at the University of Lethbridge on May 12-15, 1974. It will be jointly sponsored by the University and the Historical Society of Alberta. Members of the Whoop-up Cpuntry Chapter are in charge of arranging for the conference and will act as the host chapter. Our planning is based on an anticipated attendence of 300-350. About 10 registrations have, already been received. With this newsletter you will receive a brochure, map of the university and Accommodation form. We hope you will look over the brochure carefully and decide to attend. The Program Subcommittee has arranged for a distinguished list of speakers, many of the nationally known historians. Also, Proceedings of the Conference will be made available in book form and you have the opportunity to pre-order these Proceedings at $7.50. The final version will sell for at least $10.00. The Registration Fee of $20.00 covers cost of a Reception, Banquet, and entitles the registrant to attend the various conference functions, including a showing of rare films. ******* Judge Turcotte was elected the first Honourary President of the newly-organized Whoop-up Country Historical Society on February 18th last. ******* From: The Calgary Herald, December 9, 1908; TWO HERALD MEN ON THEIR TRAVELS' How They Were Frozen Out of Lethbridge—A Fine City Whose Board of Trade Wears Skirts and Wants to Keep Them Clean. In the dawn of a wintery morning the Herald railway campaign missionaries pulled into Lethbridge. Have you ever been to Lethbridge? It is a town whose location is "west of the Hat" or "east of Macleod", according to which way you look at it.. Most of the trains pass there at night and they keep steam up while within the city. If a Lethbridge Board of Trade man were on the platform he would freeze the fire in the boiler. He's that, chilly. Indeed he is. Prosperous Town Lethbridge is a prosperous town and it is said there are lots of nice people in it. But they stay at home and let other people run it. Senator de Veber (not Weber who makes pianos or Faber who makes pencils—just_De Veber, an ordinary Sena_tor), he runs it somewhat, assisted by a gentleman named Simmons ^W. C. Simmons, Liberal MLA/. The latter is one of those whom the Herald spoke of the other day, who would rather be in the deadwood at Ottawa than an active three-spot at Edmonton. Now he is neither. He is just big enough to advise the Lethbridge Board of Trade how to "keep its skirts clean". Really, after Medicine Hat, Lethbridge gave one the shivery feeling that doctors tell about. The clerk at the hotel is more overbearing and prldeful than a governor-general. He can hardly interrupt his Intelligent occupation of counting the cigars in his big glass case long enough to take your money; he inspires in all who meet him that blessed virtue of that meekness which may Inherit the entire earth—^with the exception of Lethbridge. For him nothing exists outside his own counter. And in this he only copies the governors of the Board of Trade for whom exists no Interests outside their own town. Someone Smiles "Doesn't anyone ever smile in this place?" asked one frightened missionary of the other after living there for three long hours. "Not that I've seen," replied the other. "Let's try the hotelkeeper. He'll smile if we pay for it, anyhow." And he did. •, The Message to Garcia We took our message to the Secretary of the Beard of Trade—a very decent chap who' ought to be living among friends. He conveyed us to one of his superior officers, by whom we were received with a courtesy which indicated that, in some other relation of life, one might be able to do pleasant business with him. As an officer of the Board, however, he was adamant—polished adamant, but none the less hard on that account. "The Lethbridge Board of Trade," he informed us with a statliness which showed just how big an institution we were up against, "has always kept its skirts clean from politics. For that reason we cannot discuss your proposition." The missionaries humbly explained that they didn't have any politics concealed about their persons but merely wished to discuss provincial railways, a subject in which business men might properly be interested without reference to party strife. It appeared, however, that Senator de Veber had said this and Mr. Simmonds had said that, with the result that the Lethbridge Board couldn't discuss the question. Skirting the Question "We are determined to keep our skirts clean from—" began the officer once more. "Does the Lethbridge Board of Trade wear ..skirts?" asked one missionary mildly, but the question went unanswered. We tackled another prominent member—what his particular office was we did not ascertain—and he threw a gleam of light on the Board's attitude. "As a matter of fact," he sagely remarked, "I can't see why Lethbridge should take any part in your campaign. Lethbridge is doing very well out of the present situation. Farmers at present have to haul their wheat long distances into this town and spend their money here while if they had railways they wouldn't have to come here but would ship from nearer points. I think it is to Lethbridge's Interests that the present situation should continue for some time at least." It Was All Off That settled the matter. There didn't seem to be any use in urging a broad railway policy against such an argument and the missionaries hunted for the next train westward, glad to be permitted to leave town without being arrested for sedition. And the next train was four hours late at that. * * *-* * * * The CPR Viaduct Below are excerpts from "Great Engineering Works on the Canadian Pacific Railway", a paper read by J, E. Schwitzer, Assistant Chief Engineer, Western Lines, C.P.R., at the British Association for the Advancement of Science, Winnipeg, Manitoba, 1909. The article was sub­ titled "The Huge Lethbridge Viaduct in Southern Alberta and the Grade Reduction in the Can­ adian Rockies".. Two great engineering triumphs have been achieved this year by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, in the construction of a huge viaduct_on its Crow's Nest branch, and the reducti£n of the steep grade in the Canadian Rockies. /The latter was the spiral tunnels at Fieldj_/ Both are works.of considerable magnitude, and both have been successfully.completed in a remarkably short length of time. Although only separated by less than 200 miles as the crow flies, these engineering feats are essentially different in every aspect, even in their surroundings and conditions, the one being located in mountain recesses, and the other on the broad plains of a ranching and grain-growing region. The Crow's Nest line of the Canadian Pacific Railway branches off the main transcontinental road at Medicine Hat, and parallels it through the mountains a hundred miles to the south, to give easy access from the east to the rich mining regions of southern British Columbia. The present line between Lethbridge and Macleod is 37 miles in length, the distance from Leth­ bridge, which is situated on a spur track, to Lethbridge Junction is 1.5 miles. The total distance from Lethbridge to Macleod being 38.5 miles. The present line is constructed with curves as sharp as 7° (819 feet radius) and with a grade of 1.2 per cent (63.4 feet per mile). A total of 20 bridges, with a total length of 12,063 feet, or 2.8 miles, 1,450 of this length being Howe fruss spans, varying in length from 100 to 150 feet. In the majority of cases these bridges cross streams and ravines with very steep.cut-banks, which, on account of the nature of the soil, requires constant watching, especially in the spring and during high water. The worst of these crossings are those at St. Mary's and Belly Rivers. On account of, the life of these bridges being nearly expired, they would require, during the present year, heavy repairs, or practically rebuilding. The estimated cost of permanent bridges to replace these wooden bridges is $1,065,000. Owing to the necessity o£ rebuilding these bridges, and to the rapid increase of traffic, and the fact that the original charter for the Crow's Nest Branch required the constructiQp of a line to start from Lethbridge, it was therefore decided to have surveys made and ascertain if it were possible to secure a low grade line with better alignment. With this object in view, extensive surveys were made in 1904 and 1905. The line which was finally adopted gives a maximum grade of 0.4 per cent (21.12 feet per mile) with a maximum curvature of 3° (1,910 feet radius). As already noted, the town of Lethbridge is on a spur track of the Crow's Nest Pass Railway, 1.5 miles long, which necessitates practically all trains running into Lethbridge and backing out, being a loss of 3 miles, which will be saved when the new line is put in operation. The saving affected by the new location as compared with the old is as follows: 5.26 miles of line, 1,735 degrees less curvature, 37 fewer curves, and 401.5 feet less rise and fall, besides securing the 0.4 per cent grade, as compared with a 1.2 per cent grade on the old line. These changes would so reduce operating'expenses that the saving with an increase of 20 per cent in traffic above what it was last year would pay an interest at the rate of 4% on an investment of $3,625,000, besides which it would cost to replace the old wooden bridges with peinnanent structures $1,065,000. The total capital expenditure which would therefore be justified would be $4,690,000, while the estimated cost of the change of the line is $2,048,700. On this new line there are only two bridges, both large viaducts, one over the Belly River at Lethbridge, 5,327.6 feet~ long, 314 feet above the river, and one over the Old Man River, 1,900 feet long and 146 feet in height above the river. ******* HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF ALBERTA

~" WHOOP-UP COUNTRY. CHAPTER

Number 2 NEWSLETTER April, 1974

Membership in the Whoop-up Country Chapter, Historical Society of Alberta, including a sub­ scription to the quartevt^Alberta Historical Review, newsletters, and notice of meetings, can be obtained for $4.00 -per year. Send membership fees to: Mrs. Lucille Dalke, Treasurer, Whoop-up Country Chapter, P. 0. Box 974, Lethbridge, Alberta. TIJ 4A2

SOCIETY OFFICERS FOR'1973-1974 President Alex Johnston, Marquis Hotel Past president Frank A Russell, Box 326 Vice president Carlton R Stewart, 1005-23 St N Secretary Dr R A Laicey, 1912 - 14 St So Treasurer Mrs Lucille Dalke, 638-9 St So Council Member (1976) Clarence Geiger, 1265-5 St A So Council Member (1976) Ray Schuler, 2630 - 22 Av So Council Member (1975) Andrew Staysko, 625 - 12 St So Council Member (1975) R I Baker, Box 14, Coaldale Council Member (1974) A H L Somerville, 1312 - 15 St So Council Member^(1974) Vacant Social Convenor Mrs Nora Everson,'507 Balmoral Hse Social Convenor Mrs Wyn Myers, 1236 - 5 Av A'So

A. E. Cross Commeratlon May 23. 1974 At 4:00 p.m. The Minister of the Department of Indian Affairs and Northern Development has agreed with the reconmendatlon of the Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada that Mr. A.E.Cross was an eminent C£inadlan and .will be so recognized by the erection of a plaque in his honour. An official ceremony will take place on Timber Ridge, located in about the center of the a7 Ratiche, on Thursday. rJMay 23, 1974 at 4:00 p.m., when the plaque will be unveiled. Of special interest will be the attendance of the entire Historic Sites and Monuments Board. The Board is holdings its 8pi;lng meeting in Alberta and will include the unveiling on its agenda. The ceremony will feature the presence of the five children of A. E. Cross and their families. Dr. L. H. Thomas, Alberta representative of the Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada will be Chairman. Jim, Mary, Marmo, Sandy and John Cross, along with the Minister or his representative will unveil the plaque. ******* MOUNTED POLICE CONFERENCE May 12-15, 1974 A Mounted Police Conference, co-sponsored by the Historical Society of Alberta and the University of Lethbridge, will be held at the university from May 12-15. 1974. We urge that you forward your $20 registration to Box 974, Lethbridge, Alberta TlJ 4A2. We ar£ the hosts. ]{(****** •^^'^•r..ff y-lf'^V •^Jj^:" '•' 1 •.' l/'-'AW-i ".--'' K)-.- •' •'l V -^ < •-

')i ?>* - . 4 " c ClaresKolm^ K T?^(VI Uri V^o-:>, ^'^'... :..'7V. .^....^'""'N.!. % v'J •'',! ; |<.-i.i..iiM.ii.i'! A. E. CROSS AND THE A7 RANCHE Alfred Ernest Cross came west well equipped to play an Important part in the ranching industry. Bom in Montreal in 1861, he received his., early education at Harleybury, England, then attended the Montreal Business College, Guelph Agricultural College, and Montreal Vet­ erinary College. In 1884 he was engaged by Senator M. H. Cochrane of Hillhurst Farms, Compton, Quebec, as bookkeeper and veterinarian on the Cochrane (Big Hill) Ranch, near modern Calgary. After about two years he decided to start ranching on his own. That summer, he started out in a fairly big way by homesteading the SW quarter of section 12, township 16, range 29, west of the 4th meridian, bordering Sheep Creek, four miles from Trollinger's stopping house on Mosquito Creek, Also, he secured a 50,000-acre lease on the Little Bow near its junction with Mosquito Creek. He borrowed enough money to buy about 400 head of cattle. On his homestead he built a house, stable and corrals and, with a herd of wild British Columbia horses and half broken saddle horses, was in business. Because of his background, Mr. Cross fitted in well with the ranching community. He was one of the fraternity that gave western ranching its distinctive Canadian character. And he was himself a "public school old boy" who could appreciate what his English colleagues so often considered comic phenomena. His congenial manner and formal training placed him well above the average rancher of the time.

aMn^^ He had an early set-back during the severe winter of 1886-87 when he lost 60 percent of his herd. But many of his neighbors lost more so "A. E.". as he was familiarly known, figured that he was fairly lucky. He began at once to improve his holdings and to expand his operation. He Imported pedigree stock, mostly Shorthorn, but also Hereford and Galloway, from Ontario and Great Britain to Improve his herd, which generally brought the highest prices on the market. A Cleveland Bay sire gave body and size to colts, which were prized later as remounts. He produced a Thoroughbred cross for polo ponies. He was a keen sportsman, enjoyed a good, polo game and kept hounds to chase coyotes. He raised game cocks and was involved in the introd­ uction of Hungarian partridge and Ring-necked pheasants into Alberta. He was one of the "Big Four" who founded the modem Calgary Stampede in 1912. Mr. Cross noticed at an early date that the Porcupine Hils to the west of his holdings offered more shelter and better grazing for livestock. About 1890 he bought a quarter section from his brother, W. H. Cross, moved to what is still the A7 headquarters and began to concent­ rate his interests in that area. In 1901 George Greig acquired the original homestead quarter and his home became a regular stopping place for settlers journeying back and forth from the western hills. Mr. Greig built a large stone house on this property in 1908. /r\ By 1900, Mr. Cross was a well-established cattleman, and as founder and majority share­ holder in the Calgary Brewing and Malting Company, also was one of the city's more prominent businessmen. Like all ranchers who were faced with a flood of homesteaders after the turn of the century he saw that control of the land was essential for survival. He organized ranchers and personally began to buy up land, mostly from the government and railway but after 1910 from homesteaders who desired to move elsewhere. His management skills and influence helped him to survive the decline after 1900 when many large and small ranch operations went out of business. The medium sized ranches proved to have the best chance of survival. After the bad winter of 1906-07, Mr. Cross gave up his eastern range and reduced his herd to a size that could be accommodated on the home range. While Mr. Cross generally received top regional prices for his well-bred cattle, like all stock growers of the district, he found it difficult to escape the Burns/Gordon & Ironsides network and their monopoly on cattle buying and shipping. In 1905, unsatisfied with local prices, he attempted to ship directly overseas only to find that Gordon & Ironsides had all available bookings. Within hours of an embargo being lifted on shipment of cattle to the United States, he was preparing to bypass local buyers and ship directly to Chicago. He had the business, political, and financial strength to keep ahead of competition. When John M. Cross, youngest son of A. E. Cross, resigned as president of the Western Stock Growers' Association in February, 1959, it was acknowledged that the Cross name (father and sons Jim and John) had appeared on the Directorate for sixty consecutive years. (John Cross now operates the A7 and is still active in the Western Stock Growers' Association.) Ranching and brewing were by no means the Extent of the interests of A. E. Cross. He had great enthusiasm for nearly everything around him, particularly in regard to development of the country's natural resources, and served as a director or eXcutlve on a multitude of associations and boards. In 1898 he was elected Conservative member from East Cal,gary to the North West Territorial Legislature. However, ranching and polo were his greatest pleasures. An expert horseman and keen polo player, he was for some time president of both the Calgary and Western Canada Polo Associations. On June 8, 1899, A. E. Cross married Helen Rothhey, daughter of Colonel James F. Macleod, giving the family very close association with the North-West Mounted Police, now the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. Mr. Cross died on March 10, 1932, at Montreal and was burled in Calgary. Three sons, J. B. (Jim). A. R. (Sandy), and J. M. (John), and two daughters, Mrs. M. V. (Marmo) Shakespeare and Mrs. M. J. (Mary) Dover and some forty other descendants survive. ******* Timber Ridge.—Timber Ridge, where the unveiling ceremony will be conducted, was so named because it supported a stand of commercial timber in the early days of settlement. The Ridge is part of a dissected plateau known as the Porcupine Hills. THe Hills extend from the north bank of the Oldman River, west of Fort Macleod. to the headwaters of Mosquito Creek, a distance of 55 miles in a NNW direction. The Hog's Back, south of the OLdman, is part of the same range while to the north it is continued by more or less isolated areas of high plateau, to the Bow River and beyond that stream by the Nose Hill. The hills are highest near the southern end, where they rise about 2,000 feet above the plains to the ea^t. To the north they become much lower, and near the Hlghwood River are only 400 feet above the general level of the country. The surface of the hills is very rough and is generally cut up by the deep and wide valleys, with grassy slopes, of the many small streams. The principal drainage is to the south and east. Viewed broadly, their surface is composed of the broken remnants of a wide plateau with an eastward Inclination. THe slopes of the hills oh both sides are open grassed land. It is only on some of the higher western points that any areas of continuous woodlands occur. This description was written by George Mercer Dawson in 1882. Trees have increased greatly because of control of prairie fires during the'past 90 or so years. *******

'i-^v:;,: L;O.;'.

P't'"---:,''''- 'A -G ?'v HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF ALBERTA

"- WHOOP-UP COUNTRY, CHAPTER

Number 3 NEWSLETTER July, 1974

Membership in the Whoop-up Country Chapter, Historical Society of Alberta, including a sub­ scription to the quarterly Alberta Historical Review, newsletters, and notice of meetings, can be obtained for $4.00 per year. Send membership fees to: Mrs. Lucille Dalke, Treasurer, Whoop-up Country Chapter, P. 0. Box 974, Lethbridge, Alberta TIJ 4A2

SOCIETY OFFICERS FOR 1973-1974 President - Alex Johnston. Marquis Hotel Past President - Frank A Russell, Box 326 Vice President - Carlton R Stewart, 1005 - 23 St N Secretary - Dr R A Lacey, 1912 - 14 St So Treasurer - Mrs Lucille Dalke, 638 - 9 St So Council Member (1976) - Clarence Geiger, 1265 - 5 Av A So Council Member (1976) - Ray Schuler, 2630 - 22 Av So Council Member (1975) - Andrew Staysko, 625 - 12 St So Council Member (1975) - R I Baker, Box 14, Coaldale Council Member (1974) - A L H Somerville, 1312 - 15 St So Council Member (1974) - Vacant Social Convenor - Mrs Nora Everson. 507 Balmoral Hse Social Convenor - Mrs Wyn Myers, 1236 - 5 Av A So

HARD TIMES It is difficult to realize that no-one under the age of about 50-55 can have any real memories of the Great Depression of the 1930's. A re-reading of the newspapers of the day would lead one to believe that the Depression never occurred. They are full of optimism and super-critical of all the unfortunates who were forced by circumstances to ride the rods or apply for relief. Only in recent years have books such as James H. Gray's "The Winter Years" or Barry Broadfoot's "Ten Lost Years 1929-1939" begun to shed a little objective light on the period. THe Depression years were particularly difficult ones in the Palliser Triangle of western Canada. There economic depression coincided with prolonged drought, rust, and seemingly endless plagues of grasshoppers and many saw the end of a viable agriculture in the region. One woman's attempt to bring a little cheer into the lives of her neighbors is brought out below. Seven Persons, Alberta October 8th, 1935 Dr. W. H. Fairfield, Superintendent. Lethbridge Experimental Station Dear Dr. Fairfield: I am writing to you, as per our recent conversation, in regards to trying to get a government grant to assist me in carrying on the work which I have been doing along horticultural lines. As you probably know, I have been doing this work of acclimatizing, selecting and developing perennial and other varieties of flowers, with the object of sending seeds mostly to the outlying districts and to those who find it Impossible to spend much money to satisfy their love of flowers. I tried for many years to grow flowers with absolutely no results, and it was not until I received some home grown seeds that I was able to have any success. Since then I can grow many kinds that absolutely failed for me before that time. I believe this is true with many amateurs, and in my work I am trying to reach this class of people and convince them that it is possible to grow flowers on the prairies. Once they succeed they pass out of our class and become patrons of the regular seed houses where they buy named and special kinds. I want to catch those who have little or even no money to satisfy this love of beauty we all possess. We have a correspondence club, of which I am the originator and leader, and we save our home grown seeds for distribution. The members may purchase seeds at a nominal price, or send in their own home grown seeds and exchange it for packages from our lists. Of late years my work has consisted mainly, as far as the club goes, of exchange or donation to those who have lost their flowers during the past few years of drought, grasshoppers, and kindred "visitations of Providence". This all means that I must pay postage, in every case, out of my own funds, and also pay for gas, oil, help, etc., and donate my time and services gratis. I have been told the Government has no money for grants for seed distribution, but I think the few letters enclosed with this will show that the work is well worthwhile, and I can show many more like this every year. The late Prof. Macoun of Ottawa, Prof. Leslie of Morden, Man., P. A. Tavemer, the Dominion Ornithologist, and many other Gevemment men, including our own Dr. Clarke of the Manyberries Range Station, have all spoken highly of my work, and seem to think it worthwhile. Surely, if the Government can grant Jack Miner funds for the wonderful work he is doing of keeping up the morale of the wild fowl it should be possible to assist in the keeping up of the morale of the people too. I might say that when we have a surplus of seed over what our club needs. I get help and we put these seeds up in packets, then into parcels of 12 varieties, which I offer through the papers to any one sending in 15?. In many cases these packets go for less, and I have sent as many as a hundred of them to districts for distribution, where the people have lost everything through no fault of their own. I find that many people will do without many things rather than ask for them, but even a small price, although it may not cover expenses, seems to make it easier for them to ask for the seeds. So I think I am reaching a class of people that cannot afford seeds at regular prices and who will not beg for charity. I will enclose some letters about my work, and hope yoii can help me to obtain the help to carry on. I believe it is good work. Cordially yours Ethel M. Webster ******* Here are-some of the letters that Mrs. Webster enclosed; Jordon River. Sask February 27, 1935 Dear Mrs. Webster: Enclosed please find 15$. Will you kindly forward a pkg of your flower seed to the above address. Many farmers have cause, and do thank you for your work. Your reward will be great. S. Hyde * * * Kelvington. Sask March 11, 1933 Dear Mrs. Webster: I am enclosing fifteen cents for which please send me pkgs of your selection of flower seeds. Thank you for the opportunity of getting these seeds, which I could not otherwise afford. Alma J. Drummond * * * Tate, Sask April 3, 1933 Dear Mrs. Webster: Please find enclosed the sum of 15$, for which please send me your 10 pkgs of acclimatized flower seeds. Thanking you most sincerely for your efforts to give flower lovers a chance to have flowers in spite of hard times. (Mrs.) Mildred Perratt * * * Mullingar, Sask March 26, 1933 Dear Mrs. Webster: Please find enclosed 150 for the package of seeds. I am not a new flower grower but owing to present circumstances am forced to start over again. I am on a homestead and do not know just how to begin as without finances it is going to be some job. But my flower and vegetable garden come first. . . . I am batching here now but expect to mo\^ my family in as soon as I get the house finished. I built it of logs this winter and have just the roofing aind floor to complete before plastering with mud. ... The seeds will be a welcome package here this year as I have spent almost everything on a few vegetable seeds.. . . Would like to move my perennial^ here from Saskatoon but expense prohibits. G. E. Gagl * * * Bagley^ Seatk March 26, 1934 Dear Mrs. Webster: Please find enclosed 15c silver for which send me your 10 pkgs of flower seeds. I am from the prairie and have been dried, hailed, and frozen for 6 years. Moved up here to Carrot River 2 years ago, and altho it is so hard to get a start I am glad we came. It is lovely here and you can raise such lovely gardens, if you have seed. I love flowers but I have been saving a long time to get 15$ cash and feel rather guilty sending for flowers but I love them. Mrs. E. J. Griffin * * * , Crutwell P.O., Sask September 11. 1933 Dear Mrs. Webster: Some time ago I got some seeds from you but this last summer our gardens got all hailed out so that what flowers grew after the hall did not seed. Our crops are all hailed so that we are in a poor way. I love flowers so much am sending you 15$ for'some seeds for next year. Maybe I will not have the money in the spring so thought I woulg make sure of them. I would so like to join your club but cannot spare the money now. Mrs. Richard Harris * * * McAuley, Manitoba April 4. 1933 Dear Mrs. Webster: Spring is just around the comer and out thoughts turn to our gardens and so I'm asking you to send me the 15$ packet of seeds. I'm wondering if you are still able to carry on financially. I have noticed your name in the papers, and your seed offer, so I know you are still carrying on the good work of trying to brighten up the dull spots with flowers. ... I am sorry I cannot send In my membership fee but later on, if I have the cash, I'll send it to you. . . . We in this part had crop failure, and we've had to buy all our feed and seed, so money is very scarce. But we're not so badly off as In the dried out area, so have a lot to be thankful for. . . . Most of my flowers died last year. What did bloom were nice but the hot dry winds withered them up in no time, but I'll try again and maybe we'll have lots of moisture this year. . . . Water is very serious on this farm, as we have to haul for stock and house, so we seldom can spare much for the garden. ... I read the little booklet you enclosed and felt very proud to know that others had such a high opinion of your good work. Any praise that comes your way regarding your unselfishness and untiring efforts to make Canada blossom like a rose is well deserved, and I always feiel proud that I can count on you as a pen friend.^ Jean Rogerson * * * Lenvele, Sask February 19, 1935 Dear Mrs. Webster: You will find enclosed 15 cents for the flower seed, as I am a great lover of flowers and not much money to spend. 1 want to be sure the flowers will grow, that's why I am sending for them from you. I have read all your Garden Charts in the Western Producer. ... We have just come here. I will tell you, as funny as it seems, it took me three months to save this 15 cents, so you see what these seeds will mean to me. Mrs. Edward Aasen ******* THE MARQUIS HOTEL The "Marquis" was built as a community hotel in 1927-28 and was designed to attract convention and other business to the small city of Lethbridge. Here is a news report about the new hotel: 78-ROOM HOTEL: BAALIM NAMED MANAGING DIRECTOR OF COMPANY Architect Submits Tentative Drawings—Expect Ground Will Be Broken About October 1ST—Plans Call For Complete in Every Particular. August 23, 1927.—Directors of the Lethbridge Community Hotel Ltd. at their first meeting on Monday, picked the Short Stop comer, comer 4th Avenue and 7th Street, opposite the Post Office as the site for the new structure. Organization of the new directorate resulted as follows: President and MaViaging Director, Arthur G. Baalim; Vice-president, Dr. Galbraith; Secretary-Treasurer, A. B. Hogg. Assistants to the Secretary-Treasurer were named as follows: Assistant to the Secretary, R. J. Richie Paterson; Assistant to the Treasurer, James Rose. The meeting lasted from about four o'clock on Monday afternoon until after midnight, and a great many details were settled, and other matters put under way. E. T. Brown, formerly architect for the Saskatchewan government, and now located at Kamloops, where he is directing the building of a community hotel there, was engaged as architect for the building of the hotel here, and tentative plans were placed before the directors by him. The site chosen is 100 by 150 feet, with 100-foot frontage on 4th Avenue South. It is protected on the rear by a 25-foot lane which is being provided over and above the 150-foot depth on 7th Street South. The site purchase represents $35,000, of which $25,000 is in cash and $10,000 in stock in the hotel company. President Baalim and the architect, Mr. Brown, left on Monday afternoon for Moose Jaw, where they will look into construction problems in connection with the community hotel being built there, and on Monday next another meeting of the Directors will be held when details of the plans will be settled upon, and definite instructions given the architect. Mr. Brown will open an office in Lethbridge immediately in order to superintend the construction of the hotel. According to the tentative plans discussed by the Directors on Monday, the hotel will occupy ground space of 100 by 123 feet. On this a 78-room hotel will be erected, the building to be four storeys and basement. The ground floor will comprise the rotunda and hotel offices, coffee shop, club and banquet room, main dining room, and four storeys facing 4th Avenue. lUe main dining room and club banquet room will be available as one for large banquets and will rit about 250 in that case. It will also be available as a ball room. A mezzanine floor, which will be approached by a broad flight of stairs from the-rotunda will provide a palm room, lounge, and tea room for the ladies and will be available in connection with social events centering around the hotel. Bedrooms will occupy the three top floors, and it is hoped to provide most of these with baths. There will be 78 bedrooms, but with the unoccupied ground space at the back of the building, it is considered that, when business warrants, it will be possible to add another 75 rooms. Something different In •arcbitectoral design is being considered. In order to get away from the stereotyped block style of construction, a proposal has been made to introduce something in the way of Spanish architecture which Mr. Brown believes would fit in very well with the surroundings. The hotel will be equipped with six sample rooms in the basement, according to present plans. It is expected that it will be four or five weeks before the plans can be drawn in detail and tenders for construction called for, and It will therefore be about the first of October before ground for the structure can be broken. ******* HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF ALBERTA

— WHOOP-UP COUNTRY, CHAPTER

Number 4 NEWSLETTER October, 1974

Membership in the Whoop-up Country Chapter, Historical Society of Alberta, including a subscription to the quarterly Alberta Historical Review, newsletters, and notice of meetings, can be obtained for $4,00 per year. Send membership fees to: Mrs. Lucille Dalke, Treasurer, Whoop-up Country Chapter, P. 0. Box 974, Lethbridge, Alberta, TIJ 4A2

SOCIETY OFFICERS FOR 1973-1974

President Alex Johnston, Marquis Hotel Past President Frank A. Russell, Box 326" Vice President Carlton R. Stewart, 1005 - 23 St No Secretary Dr. R. A, Lacey, 1912 - 14 St So Treasurer Mrs. Lucille Dalke, 638 - 9 St So Council Member (1976) Clarence Geiger, 1265 - 5 Ave A So Council Member (1976) Ray Schuler, 2630 - 22 Ave So Council Member (1975) Andrew Staysko, 625 - 12 St So Council Member (1975) R. I. Baker, Box 14, Coaldale Council Member (1974) A, L, H. Somerville, 1312 - 15 St So Council Member (1974) Vacant Social Convenor Mrs. Nora Everson, 507 Balmoral Hse Social Convenor Mrs. Wyn Myers, 1236 - 5 Ave A So

OCTOBER MEETING The first monthly meeting of the season will be held on Tuesday, October 22nd, in the Assembly Room of the Sir Alexander Gait Museum. The meeting will start at 8:00 p.m.

Guest speaker will be Mr. Robert Gardner, Lethbridge Iron Works, who will talk to us about the CPR High Level Bridge. Mr. Gardner is very familiar with this well-known Lethbridge landmark and has a number of early engineering journal reports on its construction. Also, he has obtained pictures/Of the construction of the bridge and will show these as well, ************

THE ANIMAL DISEASES RESEARCH INSTITUTE (WESTERN), LETHBRIDGE, ALBERTA

by R. Connell

/The following history of the Animal Diseases Research Institute (Western) was written in 1958 by Dr. Robert Connell, then Officer-in-charge. Dr. Connell was transferred to Saskatoon and was succeeded by Dr. R. J, Avery, Dr. Avery, in turn, was succeeded by Dr. Stewart Magwood, the present Director.

The Institute is better known among oldtimers as "The Quarantine" and was for many years called the Veterinary Research Station. Because they work with rather serious diseases, personnel have maintained a low profile throughout the years and the institution is not well known to the general public. ^ Dr. Duncan McEachran, founder of the McGill Ve'terinary School (1866), Chief Veterinary Inspector for Canada (1844), manager of the Waldron Ranch, Lundbreck (1844), was responsible for the first quarantine stations in the west. These included a large "Quarantine" at Coutts, consisting of a string of several townships strung along the border there. Object of the quarantine, or isolation of incoming stock, was to prevent the entry into Canada of the many animal diseases that plagued Europe and other parts_of the world. The present health of our livestock industry is proof of the success of those early endeavors^ * * * Prior to 1905, the areas that were to become the provinces Alberta and Saskatchewan, were part of the Northwest Territories. Immigrants were pouring into the areas destined to become Alberta and Saskatchewan and veterinary policing in connection with entering the country was established early under the jurisdiction of the R,N,W.M.P,, with headquarters at Regina. Veterinary staff comprised one Inspector and 14 veterinary staff sergeants. These in part were stationed at the following points: Fort Macleod (Inspector Burnet), Regina (Mitchell), Wood Mountain (Perry), North Portal (Richard), Maple Creek (Coristine), Coutts (Johnstone), Cardston (Oliver), Calgary (Hobbs), Edmonton (Sweetapple), and Prince Albert (Mountford). Lastly, Dr, J, C, Hargrave who was located at Medicine Hat, reported to the Police, although he was not a staff sergeant attached to the force.

In March 1904, word reached Inspector Burnet at Fort Macleod, who was the closest veterinary officer, that some unusual disease was present in horses on the property of Mr. W, T, (Tom) McCaugherty of Lethbridge. Inspector Burnet made an investigation and concluded that the disease was dourine. He reported his suspicion to Regina, where it was relayed to Ottawa, In 1904, the Health of Animals Branch was just two years old. In the 1900 federal election, Rutherford, the sitting parliamentary member for Portage la Prairie, Manitoba, was defeated and it was necessary to find a place for him. First he was taken on as an officer in the department and sent to England, In 1902 Rutherford superceded McEachern as Chief Veterinary Inspector with the title Veterinary Director General, Rutherford's first report came on October 31st, 1903. In this and subsequent reports, McEacherns name was not mentioned although he was the founder of the whole federal veterinary activity and had been Chief Veterinary Inspector since 1884. In taking over as Veterinary Director General, Rutherford eventually inherited the veterinary sanitary policing organization in western Canada, which was turned entirely over to the Health of Animals Division in 1907. When word about dourine at Lethbridge reached Rutherford the ball began to roll. The V,D,G, visited Lethbridge April 12th, 1904, Rutherford agreed, or semi-agreed with Burnet, but with an eye to his political fortifications asked Dr, Salmon, Chief of the U.S.B.A.I, to send a "specialist", Dr, Salmon sent Dr, Davidsoni of Nebraska, who concluded that Burnet's diagnosis was correct. At the time in both Canada and United States,' dourine was diagnosed on clinical evidence alone without any attempt at scientific confirmation. It was decided that something had to be done. At first the McCaugherty ranch through agreement with the owner was utilized as a quarantine area for suspected cases of dourine found in the district. This was temporarily convenient because the McCaugherty property was fenced. At the same time procedures were started to secure 1800 acres of Hudson Bay Co, land about two miles up-river from the McCaugherty ranch to be established as a Quarantine Station, This land was fenced and corrals were built. In 1905 an H. of A. officer (staff Sergeant M. V. Gallivan, R.N.W.M.P.) was established at Lethbridge. In the same year Rutherford had come to the conclusion that scientific investigation of dourine might be worthwhile and arranged to have Dr. Seymour Hadwen, who had been in the Biological Laboratory in Ottawa, but who at the time was in Nelson, B.C. go to Lethbridge as a veterinary officer, Hadwen arrived in Lethbridge, For his first night on the station he was supplied with a military tent. It was a stormy night with a raging wind blowing. Any thought of sleep was precluded because military property--the tent—had to be kept from blowing away and being lost, and this required an all night battle with the wind. Under Hadwen's supervision, the police built a house on the station. One of the downstairs rooms was the first laboratory, Hadwen's instructions were to investigate--in reality, to try and find--the trypanosome, Hadwen soon found an organism, not a trypanosome, that captivated his imagination and diverted his effort from the task at hand. Into this matter was precipitated Dr, Higgins of Ottawa, "Pathologist" to the Department of Agriculture, Higgins had no jurisdiction over Hadwen or any control over the course that dourine investiga­ tions should take, all of which were entirely in Rutherford's hands. Nevertheless, Higgins as Pathologist found support in Hadwen's activities for proposing a laboratory approach to dourine at the Quarantine Station at Lethbridge. From this meagre beginning, the history of the Veterinary Research Station traces. Hadwen resigned and E, A, Watson arrived in Lethbridge from the Ottawa Biological Laboratory in October, 1906, to take over dourine investigation. A small laboratory was built. This building was torn down in 1952. For several years it served as the laboratory, "after which it became in turn the inspectors' quarters", the guinea pig house, a pig pen, and finally in the years before it was torn down, a chicken house. Watson settled down in his little laboratory, heated with coal stove, with a coal oil lamp for light, to look for the trypanosome of dourine. He made and examined thousands of sections. In late fall of 1906 he observed trypanosomes in the blood of cottontail rabbits and field mice. These were the first obser­ vations of trypanosomes in any species of mammalian host in Canada. Finally his tenacity was rewarded in February, 1907, with the first observation of the dourine trypanosome ever made in North America.

There followed a great deal of jockeying for position in relationship to this discovery, Watson was suspicious that Higgins would attempt to steal his discovery. Higgins seems to have been asked to "con­ firm" the findings, but Watson refused to show his slides until he had assurance that his priority was safe. He insisted to Rutherford that Gallivan be given joint credit, because he was along the night the discovery occurred. Rutherford must have agreed to something of this kind because it seems unlikely that he would have otherwise paid it the attention he did. At any rate Gallivan was given junior credit by Rutherford and Rutherford's 1909 report states "by Drs, Watson and Gallivan",

With a diagnostic method available the next step was to apply it, but conditions in the little old laboratory were impossible for the examination of many samples, and in 1912-13 a new brick laboratory was put up. It included many "modern" features such as water pressure, acetylene gas for lighting, and gasoline motor- driven centrifuge and water pump. In this new laboratory Watson commenced the wholesale testing of blood samples.

It would seem that the disease regulatory authority was somewhat "surprised" when Watson personally wasn't happy about settling down to a blood testing routine. He tried to use veterinary inspectors in getting the routine work done, keeping himself free for research on dourine and other diseases (swamp fever, loco disease, etc.). A procession of inspectors--Brusselle, Monroe, V. V. Christie, Hilliard, Wickware, A, E. Cameron, Cowan, W. L. Hawke and others--went in and out of the laboratory,

Watson improved the complement fixation test by adapting his agglutination antigen to the test in place of the German spleen antigen. For this piece of work he received his D,V,Sc. from Toronto.

Watson's tenure of office as Officer in Charge extended from 1906 to 1920. Hawke was -acting officer-in-charge for 18 months (1914-1916'5) due to Watson's enlistment for World War I service. From 1916% to 1920, Dr. C. A. Mitchell was officer-in-charge, carrying out the dourine testing along with research on swamp fever and other diseases. For a period after 1920, the station was vacated except for maintenance staff comprising the farm foreman, Mr, W, E. Lewis and a technician. Dr. A. E, Cameron then became officer- in-charge and served in this position until 1925, working mostly on mange and tuberculosis in buffalo, Dr, Lionel Heath then became officer-in-charge and served in the position until 1938. In the period 1920-1938 the capital structure was added to. Two more dwellings were put up. The "buffalo barn" was built. An addition to the laboratory was made by Heath.

Dr, Heath's time was devoted largely to work on tuberculin. It was in the period when he was officer-in-charge that pullorum disease rose to importance and the agglutination test for pullorum disease came into use. At first, the pullorum testing was done on the station but in 1937, a pullorum testing laboratory was opened in the Lethbridge Post Office. Dr. J, C, Phillips was to take over the Post Office Laboratory but due to his sudden death, Dr, I. W, Moynihan took over the work.

The author due to lack of knowledge is unable to list the names of all the veterinarians who served under Dr. Heath but the list includes Dr. Macdonald, Dr. Isa, now of Winnipeg, Dr. Holloway and others.

Dr, Ronald Gwatkin became officer-in-charge in 1938. The pullorum lab. in the Post Office was closed at the onset of World War II and Dr, Moynihan moved out to the station, Dr, Gwatkin with the help of Dr, Moynihan carried out important work on diseases of swine and pullorum disease. In 1939 the guinea pig house was built. Dr. Gwatkin moved to Ottawa in 1945. For a time officer-in-charge duties were carried out jointly by Drs. Bankier and Moynihan, then Dr. R. C. Duthie was appointed Officer-in-Charge.

In the 10 years (1945-1955) that Dr, Duthie was officer-in-charge rapid improvements in the station property, capital structure and equipment were made. The research tempo was stepped up and diversified. Numerous projects were undertaken. The author came on staff in 1949 following the resignation of Dr, W, B. Davidson and Dr. E, V. Langford was added to laboratory staff in 1951. In 1955 Dr. Duthie retired. In the same year Mr. Edgar Lewis also retired after serving 43 years as farm foreman on the station. Dr, C, le Q. Darcel was added to staff, and the author was appointed Officer-in-Charge,

Dr, Alex Robertson served on staff for six months in 1956 before proceeding east to undertake post­ graduate work. In early 1957 Dr. Langford resigned to accept a position in the Provincial Veterinary Laboratory in Vancouv^er, and Drs. T, Kramer and L. Niilo were added to staff.

Much of the activity of recent years is not as yet history in the strict sense, and is best left for recording and discussing at a later time. Since the night Hadwen held his tent over his head steady progress has been made. ************ PLACE-NAMES OF ALBERTA ADEN: after Aden, seaport, Arabia; the first postmaster, H, E, Anderson, had been a sailor. BELLY: river, Oldman river; on Palliser map, 1865; steemuk ske piskon signifying bull-head on David Thompson's^^ map, 1814; after the Atsina,:a detached branch of the Arapaho, now on a reserve in Montana; are ^^ known to the other Arapaho as Hitunena, "beggars" or ''spongers" whence the tribal sign, commonly, but incorrectly, rendered "belly people" or "big bellies;" the "Gros Ventres" of the French Canadians and now their vulgar name; the river was, formerly, called "Mokowanis," also "Mokomans;" mokowanis is Blackfoot for "belly,"

BURDETT: village, after Baroness Burdett Coutts, (1814-1906), shareholder in North West Coal and Navigation Co., Ltd. CARDSTON: town, after Charles Ora Card, son-in-law of Brigham Young, under whose guidance Mormon families came here from Utah. Mr. Card was the first mayor of the town, CARMANGAY: town, after C, W, Carman and his wife nee Gay, former residents. COALHURST: village, coal is mined here; Colliery is the railway station name; the official name of present Lethbridge prior to 1885, was Coalhurst. COWLEY: village, named by a rancher, F. W, Godsal; watching his cattle wandering across the prairie, he was reminded of Gray's "lowing herd winds slowly o'er the lea." KANANASKIS: railway station, pass, mountain range, lakes and rtver, tributary to Bow riverl Palliser says he named Kananaskis pass after "an Indian of whom there is a legend, giving an account of his most wonderful recovery from the blow of an axe, which had stunned but failed to kill him, and the river which flows through this gorge also bears his name," MASINASIN: Post Office, Cree name meaning "writing on stone," referring to figures and writing cut in the sandstone banks of Milk river. MEDICINE HAT: city, the site of the present city is so called in the Report of the Northwest Mounted Police for 1882 and about this year the first house was erected. Medicine Hat is a translation of the Blackfoot Indian name "saamis" meaning "head-dress of medicine man," One explanation connects the name with a fight between the Cree and Blackfoot tribes, when the Cree medicine man lost his war bonnet in the river.*-*-Another connects it with the slaughter of a party of white settlers and the appropriation by the Indian medicine man of a fancy hat worn by one of the victims. One explanation is that the name was applied originally to a hill east of the town, from its resemblance to the hat of an Indian medicine man. This hill is styled Medicine Hat on a map of the Department of the Interior dated 1883. Another, with the rescue of a squaw from the South Saskatchewan river by an Indian brave, upon whose head a well known medicine man placed his own hat as a token of admiration of the act of the rescuer. Still another story says the name was given to the locality because an Indian chief saw in a vision an Indian rising out of the South Saskatchewan wearing the plumed hat of a medicine man,

PORCUPINE: hills, on Palliser map, 1865; from resemblance of one of the hills, in outline, to a porcupine; the Blackfoot name ky-es-kaghp-ogh-suy-iss, means porcupine tail. VULCAN: town, in Roman mythology, Vulcan was the god of fire. ************ HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF ALBERJA

•~ WHOOP-UP COUNTRY, CHAPTER

Number 5 NEWSLETTER November, 1974

Membership in the Whoop-up Country Chapter, Historical Society of Alberta, including a subscription to the quarterly Alberta Historical Review, newsletters, and notice of meetings, can be obtained for $4.00 per year. Send membership fees to: Mrs. Lucille Dalke, Treasurer, Whoop-up Country Chapter, P. 0. Box 974, Lethbridge, Alberta, TIJ 4A2

SOCIETY OFFICERS FOR 1973-1974

President Alex Johnston, Marquis Hotel Past President Frank A. Russell, Box 326 Vice President Carlton R. Stewart, 1005 - 23 St No Secretary Dr. R. A. Lacey, 1912 - 14 St So. Treasurer Mrs. Lucille Dalke, 638 - 9 St So Council Member (1976) Clarence Geiger, 1265 - 5 Ave A So Council Member (1976) Ray Schuler, 2630 - 22 Ave So Council Member (1975) Andrew Staysko, 625 - 12 St So Council Member (1975) R. I. Baker, Box 14, Coaldale Council Member (1974) A. L. H. Somerville, 1312 - 15 St So Council Member (1974) Vacant Social Convenor Mrs. Nora Everson, 507 Balmoral Hse Social Convenor Mrs. Wyn Myers, 1236 - 5 Ave A So

NOVEMBER MEETING

The November Meeting of the Whoop-up Country Chapter, Historical Society of Alberta, will be held on Tuesday, November 26th, at 8:00 p.m., in the Assembly Room of the Sir Alexander Gait Museum.

The program will consist of the showing of a film on the Mounted Police. The title is UNTIL THEY GET ME and it may have been filmed in Lethbridge about 1916. It was obtained from the Public Archives of Canada, Ottawa, and is worth seeing.

Also, the meeting will feature election of officers for the coming year. **********

THE TURKEY TRAIL

by

Patrick Webb and Duane Olson

Ir a short period in the Canadian northwest a little known 300 mile system of narrow gauge railroad flour- ;hed, laying the foundation for an enormous coal industry and opening up the country for settlement. Briefly it would supply all of the Canadian Pacific's coal burned between Winnipeg and Vancouver as well as much of the Great Northern's in Montana and Dakota. In addition, it served the increasing heating demands of settle­ ment in both the United States and the Canadian West particularly. It could boast of a number of firsts: the North West Coal and Navigation Company was the first railway other than the Canadian Pacific to be built west of Winnipeg and also the first to cross the border west of the territorial capital. It was in revenue operation two months before the last spike was driven at Craigellachie, Like the Canadian Pacific, it was directly responsible for the founding of a host of towns and a city in the area it served, doing all this in a seven-year period. Ultimately, the entire 350 miles was absorbed by Van Home in his scramble to beat Hill to the riches of the Crowsnest and Kootenays, and by Hill in his effort to monopolize "Big G" territory. Much of the roadbed can still be seen today as integral parts of the Burlington Northern and CP Rail systems, in Montana and Alberta.

Had you been standing at 14 Mile Tank, Northwest Territories, on August 29, 1885, you would have been witness to history. It was on that date that a mogul with twenty loaded gondolas labored away over the three foot line to Dunmore (junction), east of Medicine Hat and in so doing delivered the first trainload of coal to the Canadian Pacific. All of this goes unremarked in the development of the West but at the time it signified the end to a critical period for the directors of the North West Coal and Navigation Company. The tank itself was no different from Woodpecker, 77 Tank, Grassy Lake, Winnifred, or Seven Persons, stops trackside (and little more) on the 109 mile line to Dunmore. Man-made construction such as a tank or shed seemed to be an intrusion on a landscape neatly dissected and balanced by a treeless prairie below and a limitless sky above. The line carefully pushed its way around coulees, past sloughs, and ducked minor swells and rolls in the prairie with all the finesse of a transcontinental finding its way through the Rockies them­ selves. It was aptly named the Turkey Trail, But this is to get ahead of the story, for the train marked the end of the steamboat era, the beginnings of narrow gauge, and brought prosperity in the best Colorado tradition, though in an area slightly less imposing in grandeur.

In 1882 Sir Alexander Gait (of certain fame back east) had directed that a mine be brought into production at a point called Coalbanks on the Belly River, Northwest Territories (now Lethbridge on the renamed Oldman River, the south tributary of the South Saskatchewan), Coal was widely known in this entire region, from Fort Benton, Montana Territory, as far north as Blackfoot Crossing on the Bow. Gait's superintendent wisely chose Coalbanks' coal for its quality. The first production went to the Mounted Police at Fort Macleod for fifteen dollars a ton; some was also teamed by oxen to Fort Benton where it sold for twenty-two dollars a ton. However, better transportation was necessary to feed both Canadian Pacific rails being driven west and the settlement to follow and with incorporation of the company in 1883, it was decided to attempt 3,000 tons a year by barge to Medicine Hat,

The concept was fantastic by virtue of the logistics alone involved in getting the craft built. Everything had to be bulled from Swift Current, the end of track, 260 miles away, except the lumber which came from the Porcupine Hills, 60 miles westward. Skilled shipbuilders were brought to the Coalbanks shipyard from the United States via the Missouri. By June 1, 1883, the Baroness was ready and was floated down river to Medicine Hat to receive her machinery. In 1884, the shipyard launched two more ships and sixteen new barges to bring the Company's total to three ships and twenty-five barges. That year, despite a myriad of problems, the Northwest Coal and Navigation Company delivered 3,000 tons of coal to the 'Hat, but the demands were straining the equipment and it was clear that the short high water period had placed absolute limits on this mode of transportation. A crisis was at hand.

Meanwhile Canadian Pacific superintendents discovered that the coal was an excellent steaming fuel, con­ sequently the infant company was offered a contract of such tonnage that a railway became a necessity. The directors immediately applied for and received a charter to build a narrow gauge railway; with it went a land grant of 3,480 acres per mile to be paid for at the price of $1.10 per acre, a price which the Company couldn't raise; renegotiated, the company received 1,920 acres per mile at 10(t per acre. The recapitalized Alberta Railway and Coal Company issued construction contracts in April, 1885, only to be delayed by the ominous rebellion hanging over the West. The crews flatly refused to go without protection, so that it was May before work got underway but with armed lookouts scanning the horizon, and wild rumors circulating through the construction camp. The official opening took place on September 24, 1885, a little less than a month after the line had been completed and was attended by Canada's Governor General, the Marquis of Landsdowne, Sir Alexander Gait, Saskatchewan Jack McLean--the Anglican Bishop of Saskatchewan—and CP's General Superintendent, J. M. Eagan. The special train's arrival at the newly named hamlet of Lethbridge was electric. Real estate values briefly soared to heights something akin to Winnipeg's and nothing but great things were forecast, if we can believe the Company's advertising. In the grand style an opera house was immediately discussed, and as it turned out, one was built which became the largest and most grandiose west of Winnipeg. That coal assured Lethbridge's future was without doubt, A former Coal Company river captain told of a test he witnessed soon after the first delivery to the Canadian Pacific at Dunmore. Seven tons of Lethbridge coal and seven tons of Pennsylvania hard coal were used to power steam locomotives on the newly completed Medicine Hat-Calgary run; the locomotive with the Pennsylvania coal barely reached Calgary while the engine powered by the Lethbridge product made the return trip.

The line was hardly impressive by today's standards as pictures testify. Extremely light rail was used, apparently 28 pounds, yet the road had all the acoutrement in the best railroad tradition, A massive coal, dock was constructed at Dunmore for narrow-standard gauge interchange and a roundhouse and wye were built at Lethbridge in the shadow of the tipple, the center of the road's operations.- Interestingly, the amalgamation of the Northwest Coal and Navigation Company and the A.R. & C. Company, authorized in 1883 was not affected until 1890 when the A.R. & C. Company acquired outright the interests of the founding company. (Thus during this period the rolling stock continued to show the parent company's name.) As a result of completion of the line, the A.R. & C. Company received 414,200 acres of land and it immediately undertook extensive advertising through a land sales department. Soon it v/as to consider an extension to the Crowsnest in anti­ cipation of even greater things. Through its telegraph line to Dunmore, Lethbridge was brought into contact with Winnipeg, and the west's first hot line (fifteen posts to the mile) had been established with the Lethbridge newspaper carrying as next-day news, happenings from the wide world.

Rolling stock was typical of narrow gauge railroads everywhere. Link and pin couplers were used and loco­ motives were without air brakes. A cord connected the cab with the crummy; in the event of a broken train the bell rang in the cab to notify the engineer of the problem. The road preferred the Baldwin product and over the years owned as many as thirteen 2-6-0's, most of which were new. A Baldwin 0-6-0 was also used for a time as was a Hinkley (0-4-0), purchased from the Canadian Pacific. Baldwin was also the road's favorite for her consolidations, six or seven of which carried the A.R. & C. Company logo. As well, Canadian Locomotive and Brooks supplied two or three moguls. Water along the line was terrible, the engineers being required to keep at least an inch of water in the glass at all times to prevent foaming, and after each trip engines were washed out and the tenders emptied; this procedure was to continue until the introduction of a neutralizer allowing the engines to go unserviced for a week.

Operations were entirely by train order and the summer season was always heavy with traffic as coal was stock­ piled at Dunmore in anticipation of the heavy demands to be made upon it during the cold prairie winters. Rarely was snow itself a hazard to the line but the constant chinook winds commonly above fifty miles per hour could pack it into the cuts and lees of hills so that it was almost impossible to move. The road did not own a plow when it began operations but depended on enormous wedge plows fitted to the engine pilots at Lethbridge just prior to winter operations; later a wing plow was purchased. A flat car was also tried but proved too light for dependable operations. On only one occasion was the line severely blocked when for a period of two weeks in 1887 nothing could move.

Major repairs were done at Lethbridge where a twelve stall roundhouse and a wye, later a turntable were used, the old pit being visible today immediately behind the CP Rail facility. Thirty-five car freights were maxi­ mum tonnage, each car carrying thirteen tons of the Lethbridge product eastward. By today's standards, where an SDP 40 alone drags 60 loaded cars out of Dunmore, the capacity of the three-footers was miniscule but the limitation was imposed by the braking required. Oaken clubs were standard issue to the brakeys on the Turkey Trail. One of the last survivors of the A.R. & C. Company claimed that the brakemen could bring the train to a stop with the engine at the station door. Despite limitations of terrain, track, and equipment, the

Company was moving 90,000 .tons annually by 1890.. • r.H - *.

Most of the rolling stock consisted of gondolas, of which the road at one point had 135, with some boxes and flats for other revenue service. A number of passenger cars were owned, one being frequently tied onto the end of a trainload of coal which at times of a strong chinook, must have kept the car cleaners busy. Regular passenger service was operated over the line making connections with the Canadian Pacific through-trains at Dunmore. Another first for the road had to be its "union station" at Coutts, certainly the only union station in the West for some years. Here one building was later to serve both A.R. & C. Company as well as G.F. & C. trains and passengers--the- international boundary ran across the platform. For a time, the Lethbridge station also enjoyed some unusual railroad operations. After Canadian Pacific took over the Lethbridge-Dunmore line both standard gauge and narrow gauge equipment could be seen beside the platforms, a situation believed to exist until 1912. By 1889 the A.R. & C. was enjoying modestly prosperous times, however the carrier was still subservient to coal operations. At Lethbridge the mines on the river flats were unable to keep up with the market demands and the inclined tramway to the railway 300 feet above was overtaxed. Consequently a number of shafts had been driven down from the prairie in proximity to the new town, the tipples grotesquely breaking the monotonous horizon. Moreover, the company directors were eyeing the Great Falls market and the Great Northern's needs. Ultimately, Ottawa approved the expansion so that in 1890, track crews were completing the 64.5 miles southeastward over the Milk River Ridge to the unmarked border at Coutts, The junction at Ghent, now known as Montana Junction, is today a crossover and a switch on the eastern side of Lethbridge, immediately adjacent to number 3 highway. Simultaneously the Great Falls and Canada Railway was chartered in Montana and construction begun north and west heading for Coutts,

The line to the border from Lethbridge struck out at first over flat prairie but was forced into a series of tight curves as it began its climb up the low height of land separating the two continental water sheds, the Milk River Ridge. The right of way severed the Old Whoop-Up Trail, the ruts of which can still be seen in a number of places. At the time of construction no settlement existed and the only stops were beside the numerous tanks containing the brakish liquid. The year 1900 saw more construction, that of the St. Mary's River Railway Company. The Mormon-settled area south and west of Lethbridge was clamoring for transportation and a third three-foot line was begun from St. Mary's Junction (now Stirling) on the Coutts line, heading straight westward toward Cardston following the newly-constructed main canal of the Alberta Irrigation Company. The track was completed to Spring Coulee then extended into Cardston in 1904 with a branch running twelve miles south to Kimball near Whiskey Gap. Unlike the Dunmore-Lethbridge-Coutts lines, this 66-mile extension was not built primarily as a coal hauler, in fact aside from fuel for domestic use coming in from Lethbridge, it hauled none. Rather, it was built to serve an expanding community and move the general produce of an agricultural area. It never did own its own rolling stock but used that of the parent company. In 1912, all A.R, & I. operations ceased, to be taken over by Canadian Pacific. On April 1st, all crews were given orders that "incoming engines were to go to the C.P.R, roundhouse, Lethbridge." On that date narrow gauge operations became history as the standard gauge company immediately broadened the guage by removing the middle rail.

The aspect of three rail operations is worthy of note. By 1892, the Lethbridge-Dunmore line was the center of the stage of Van Home's ambition to beat Jim Hill to the minerals of the Kootenays through the Crowsnest Pass, Though no money was involved he obtained the line and standard gauged it in six weeks' time so that by 1893 Canadian Pacific was in Lethbridge and Van Home was chomping at the bit to move westward. The Lethbridge Yard was then three railed until the total takeover in 1912. During that time, motive power could be seen at Lethbridge with both knuckle couplers and link and pin, moving both kinds of rolling stock--the lone Hinkley product reportedly being one of these engines. In the same year run-throughs to Virden, Montana, were discontinued and Canadian crews stopped at Coutts, (this line had been standard gauged in late 1902) leaving three rails between Lethbridge and Raymond with narrow gauge from Raymond to Cardston.

The lines in the area today for the most part follow the original locations. In fact little has changed; grain elevators mark many of the original towns but the frequent water tanks are gone and only the concrete foundations mark the sites of the lineside coaling facilities. Gone too are most of the Canadian Pacific stations as passenger service has long since disappeared from the area. By contrast, the area is now the stamping ground of the last of Canadian Pacific's first-generation diesels as well as a number of leased PNC units. Nevertheless the wandering "Turkey Trail", the three-foot line, continues to impose speed and tonnage restrictions just as it has for the last ninety years. **********

THE TEA KETTLE LINE

The Great Falls and Canada Railroad

by Patrick Webb and Duane Olson About the time in Ottawa, when Sir John A. Macdonald was becoming serious about the Pacific Railroad, a problem of a far different nature faced Canada in the foothills of the Rockies, The plains country north and west of the Missouri headwaters in Montana was rapidly leading to problems so serious that a police force was to be organized to bring law to the territory and assert Canada's right to a land which in a number of locations was flying the U.S. flag. One such establishment was Fort Whoop-Up, just south of the present City of Lethbridge, Here a stockade had been built and a roaring trade was going on, the chief product being the screech brought in by bull train from Fort Benton on the Missouri. All this ended with the arrival of the North-West Mounted Police in 1874. The area did have more promising economic prospects however, the coal found along the Oldman River, and it wasn't long before the bull trains were heading south, heavily loaded with the black fuel instead. Fort Benton had by this time been eclipsed by Great Falls, where ore reduction works were being considered and the arrival of railroads, the measure of growth, were being talked about in boundless terms, despite the develop­ ments going on at the new town of Lethbridge. Here economic ties remained strong with the booming city on the Missouri and its potential was quickly recognized and was being watched with interest by the Directors of the A.R. & C. Co. However it wasn't until October 3, 1889 that Gait's newest charter was approved, the Great Falls and Canada Railway. Capitalized at $2,000,000 with equipment costs at $4,000,000, the road's directorate appeared to be an interlocking directorate with the A.R. & C. Co's—Gait, Grant, Grant, Kinsmen, and Barr. The G.F. & C. was of course to be the Montana subsidiary of the Canadian narrow gauge line.

Five months later, while equipment was being gathered at Lethbridge to extend the line the sixty five miles to the border, a similar construction camp appeared at Willard, two miles west of Great Falls. In March, 1890, led by five hundred men, a plow, a pair of engines, and thirty cars, construction began and crept for­ ward at a pace of three or four miles a day following the water courses leading generally north westward and paralleling the deeply-rutted Whoop-Up Trail most of the way. Actual distance was 134.37 miles to the bor­ der, requiring innumerable timber bridges as well as two Howe Truss spans across the Teton and Marias Rivers. Though the land is relatively flat it is occasionally severed and cut deeply by the rivers, coulees, and creeks, while buttes and low rolling hills break the horizon. Like its parent road, the G.F. & C. took the least expensive route so that grades ran at 1,25 percent while curvatures of 10 degrees were common. In order to handle the anticipated tonnage, more than five miles of sidings were built and water tanks would dot the dry country until diesels took over 60 years later. Progress was steady so that by midsummer it was at Conrad and heading for the Marias, However it was briefly interrupted by unseasonable weather. The Helena Journal reported on the first Wednesday in September that E. T. Gait had visited the city and was interviewed by the paper's reporters. "He said that the contractors have completed 135 miles of the line and have only about 35 miles of track to lay. The work has been stopped by the hard storm that has just passed over the southern portion of Alberta, the snow being about six inches in depth along the level." At that point the G.F. & C. crew would have been north of Shelby with the flat, easy, country through Rocky Springs ahead of them.

Exactly 108 days after construction began the A.R. & C. Co. and G.F. & C. rails met at the unmarked border and regular traffic was immediately initiated over the 35 lb. rail, the first coal train leaving Lethbridge the day following, October 2, 1890. Great Falls reacted in much the same way as had Lethbridge. The papers heralded the event and a magnificent dinner honouring the G.F, & C. officials was given by Phil Gibson at the Hotel Bristol. On October 20, a special one week excursion fare was inaugurated to augment-passenger service. For a fare of 10 dollars a passenger could depart Great Falls for Banff via Lethbridge and Dunmore, a round (and circuitous) trip of 900 miles. To the lover of the wide open spaces, the meandering trains must have been sheer ecstasy if he could stand the pitching, rolling, winding 300 miles of narrow gauge.

The run from Great Falls to Lethbridge was hardly a Turbo Train schedule. Departing Great Falls in mid evening, the mixed train made Lethbridge just after lunch the next day. Today it can be travelled by car easily in less than four hours. An 1894 timetable gives an interesting picture of the plodding mixed train's schedule between the two centers.

Tuesdays and Fridays only Lethbridge to Shelby: daily Shelby to Great Falls: #1 South and #2 North: 7:30 a.m. Iv Lethbridge ar 1:30 p.m. 3:50 p.m. ar Shelby Jc. Iv 4:40 a.m. (read up) 4:10 p,m. Iv Shelby Jc. ar 4:05 a.m. 11:50 p.m. ar Great Falls Iv 8:45 p.m. By 1901 service had been increased to three times weekly from Shelby to Lethbridge. Prior to 1896 as many as four freights a day were working 200 to 300 tons per train southward. At Great Falls, parallel to G.N. trackage, a massive thousand-foot long, 26 foot high, interchange ore dock had been constructed for the G.F. & C. self-dumping cars. Lethbridge coal was almost the only source of revenue for the road and little effort was made to attract other kinds of freight, (a shortcoming which became all too apparent to the Hill interests).

Apparently Canadian crews and motive power worked the A.R. & C. Co.-G.F. & C. line just over 90 miles from Lethbridge where the U.S. crews and engines took over, though frequently engines were used interchangeably. This was Shelby Junction—actually Virden three miles west of Shelby—the junction of the newly constructed main line of the Great Northern.where a boxcar did duty as a station. - (Shelby was General Manager of Montana Lines for the Great Northern and the town was named after him by Manvel, General Manager of the Great Northern. When Shelby heard of the honor he made a cryptic remark reflecting his impressions of Whoop-Up country: "I don't know what that man was thinking of when he named that mudhole God-forsaken place after me. It will never amount to a damn.") Like the facilities at Lethbridge, a wye was used on the prairie to turn the engines and a small roundhouse was constructed with minimal maintenance facilities. The road's roster shows eight engines being lettered G.F. & C, six of which were new Baldwin moguls with two consolidations of unknown ancestry. Probably because of their mint condition the engines were good steamers but handbombing Lethbridge nuggets was no easy job on the twisting uneven roadbed, and at least one fireman sheepishly admitted that his broken ankle was the result of an unexpected trip from the cab.

The Tea Kettle Line, though never showing large dividends, certainly had its shining moments. At the Great Falls end a roundhouse and turntable did duty for the road's engines. In July, 1894, surveyors were locating grade for a branch to the Boston and Montana smelter and the citizens of Bynum were clamoring for a 16 mile branch. Plans had been started for a new $5000 depot which was to be located just west of the Montana Brewing Co. plant. The tract of land was to have been about nine acres consisting of a yard 2000 feet long and 200 feet wide: the right of way was to have been 50 feet by two miles long, coming in from Willard, The enthu­ siasm had been engendered by the discovery of anthracite in the Crowsnest Pass and vastly increased tonnage was anticipated, Pennsylvania coal was $18,00 a ton; the Alberta fuel would sell at $10.00 in Great Falls. The climate of Whoop-Up country is not severe, nevertheless the elements could on occasion create havoc with the road's operations. In buffalo grass country, fires were a constant danger during the dry summers and the labouring locomotives frequently were the cause of blackened patches along the right-of-way. The Canadian Pacific had resorted to ploughing strips on either side of the track, however the G.F. & C. was faced with high winds in all seasons and it became impossible to prevent sparks from igniting the tinder dry sage, tumble weed, and grass. When one vast area of almost 600 square miles burned over in 1894, the G.F. & C. found itself the target of ugly rumors, ill will it hardly needed with the woes it already had.

The winds commonly howl at better than 60 miles per hour in the open country and under such conditions re­ turning empties from the south were in constant danger of derailment. At such times schedules went by the board as train speeds were reduced from a walk to a crawl. As more land went under the plow, top soil driven by the winds, made operations a nightmare when visibility went down to a few feet on the winding track. During winters with heavy snowfall, the large herds of antelope found a convenient path along the narrow- guage track and on these occasions the Baldwins were inevitably the bloodied winners. More often however the train would grind to a halt while a crew member banged away at some fresh game. Financially, the road was never more than marginal in the account books. In 1895, The State Board of Equali­ zation assessed the railroad at $2500 per mile; the company's requested reduction was refused. On December 17, a derailment occurred followed by the destruction of the car by fire. The road claimed the wind as the cause however the plaintiff in the resulting $60,000 suit, a Mrs. James Pierce and her three children, charged that the track, not the wind, was responsible. The net profit for that year hit a new low of $1269 and with settlement of another suit the year's operations ended in the red with a $6447 deficit.

The following year was more disastrous for the three footer. The Sand Coulee, Montana, mines went into full production in May--their product arrived in Great Falls delivered to the house at $2.50 a ton while the cost of Gait coal was double that. The market for the Canadian product was gone. The road's future was gloomy so that it was no surprise that it began to look for alternatives. Consequently in 1897 and 1898 it filed application to become a bonded road and there was speculation it was to be brought standard guage. Almost immediately it was rumored to have disposed of 80 miles of rails and four locomotives. More rumors followed in 1901, probably started by Gait's application in February to Ottawa, to lease its remaining Canadian and U.S, holdings to the Canadian Pacific. This was followed by a trip to England where he attempted to convince the shareholders to standard gauge the line. The threat to the Great Northern monopoly had long been recognized by Hill who was not about to allow another Soo line fiasco in Big G territory. He therefore moved quickly to have the Montana and Great Northern Rail­ way incorporated to purchase the G.F. & C, and four months later was successful. The Tribune duly reported the occasion: "The recently incorporated Montana and Great Northern will enable the Great Northern to shut out all competition in Northern Montana, unless other systems desire to build parallel lines. The announce­ ment of the purchase seems to have come as a surprise to some of the high officials of the Great Falls and Canada." What may have surprised them was the price. Apparently Hill paid only $750,000 for his acquisition but also undertook indebtedness of two million dollars most of which was held by a New York Bank.

While the M & G.N. was not to assume control until October 30, 1902, giving the G.F. & C. time to standard gauge, the elements were to deal a final hand to the narrow gauge. Almost as soon as the agreement was signed, a third rail was laid and business went on as usual until May, 1902, It was then that the line was closed because of severe flooding and innumerable washouts, and several bridges had to be totally replaced. Heavier rails, reduced curvature, lowered grades, and rebuilt bridges were immediately instituted under M & G.N, direction. In 1907 the G.N. officially took over the rebuilt line to Sweetgrass across the border from Coutts. While narrow gauge had at first appeared as a viable concept to the Directors, it had some obvious weaknesses from the outset. At a time when the transcontinentals were building to 4'8V the Gait interests had chosen to build to the less expensive 3' gauge, necessitating expensive interchange facilities and handling. As well, it had been built primarily as a coal hauler and had made little effort to diversify its operations into general merchandise until too late. Finally the Sand Coulee product had cut deeply into revenue and, to economize, the road had stopped maintenance which began a quick deterioration that rising profits couldn't forestall. At the peak of operations the G.F. & C. claimed ownership of eight engines, seven passengers, 2 cars, an express car, and 157 freight cars, mostly gondolas. Some of the equipment went to the Kaslo and Slocan while other pieces went to various lumber roads in the north west, the final disposition however, being un­ certain. When Canadian Pacific took over the Canadian line, the lines meeting at the border became two branches to nowhere with interchange as an afterthought. Today B.N. Geeps rattle their way through Dutton, Conrad and Sunburst to Sweetgrass, still following the Whoop-Up Trail and running over much of the G.F. & C. roadbed. But aside from the occasional relic, there is little to indicate that a three-foot Canadian sub­ sidiary, in the short span of 11 years, opened up so much of Montana along the Rockies' eastern slope.

A BRIEF NARROW GAUGE HISTORY 1882 North West Coal and Navigation Company, incorporated in England. 1884 North West Coal and Navigation Company incorporated in Canada. Alberta Railway and Coal Company incorporated same year with charter to build on to Crowsnest Pass and beyond. 1885 First train over N.W.C. & N. Co. tracks Dunmore to Lethbridge. 1890 G.F. & C. (affiliate of A.R. & C. Co.) line completed and first train runs southward to Great Falls. 1891 A.R. & C. Co. exercises option purchasing all interests of the N.W.C, & N, Co, 1893 Canadian Pacific standard gauges line from Dunmore to Ghent, third rails Ghent into Lethbridge under lease arrangement, 1897 Canadian Pacific purchases Dunmore to Lethbridge line, A,R, & C. Co. retrains running rights into Lethbridge. 1900 St, Mary's River Railway incorporated. Construction of narrow gauge completed to Spring Coulee. 1902 Standard gauging completed between border and Great Falls on G.F". & C; M, & G.N. takes over purchased line. Standard gauging completed Lethbridge to Coutts. 1903 St. Mary's River Railway extended to Cardston with branch to Kimball.

1904 Alberta Railway and Irrigation Company formed from amalgamation of A.R. & C, Co. and St. M.R. Rwy, Co, and Canadian Northwest Irrigation Company, 1912 All narrow gauge converted to standard gauge as Canadian Pacific takes over A,R. & I. lines on per­ petual lease. Raley to Kimball abandoned, ************

PEMMICAN The word, pemmican, comes from the Cree terms, pimii, meaning fat or grease, and kaan, meaning prepared. It consisted of beaten or pounded meat mixed with melted animal fat and, sometimes, berries, the preparation being sewn in a skin bag to form a hard, compact mass that would keep for a long time under almost any condi­ tions, Pemmican was known to and used by the plains Indian tribes long before white-traders entered their territory. It was Peter Pond who discovered its usefulness to the fur companies. Pond was a North-Wester, a member of the North-West Company, which was based in Montreal, Supplies had to be brought by canoe over 2,500 miles of waterways and simply could not include provisions. Therefore, the traders had to live off the country. An economic system developed whereby buffalo meat from the southern grasslands was used to provision the fur traders of the northern forests. Provision posts were set up along the edge of the prairies, from modern Winnipeg to Edmonton, to carry on the trade. And to these posts the Indians of the plains brought dried meat and pemmican, David Thompson once described the making of pemmican and said this: ",,. a wholesome well-tasted nutritious food, upon which all the persons engaged in the fur trade mostly depend for their subsistence during the open season. It is made of the lean and flesh parts of the bison dried, smoked, and pounded fine. In this state it is called "beat meat". The fat of the bison is of two qualities, called hard and soft. The former is from the inside o,f the animal, which when melted is called hard fat (properly grease), the latter is made from the large flakes of fat that lie on each side of the back bone, covering the ribs, which is readily separated, and when carefully melted resembles butter in softness and sweetness. Pemmican is made up in bags of ninety pounds weight, made of the parchment hide of the bison with the hair on. The proportion of pemmican when best made for keeping is twenty pounds of soft and the same of hard fat, slowly melted together, and at low warmth poured on fifty pounds of Beat Meat; well mixed together, and closely packed in a bag of about thirty inches in length, by near twenty inches in breadth, and about four inches in thickness which makes them flat, the best shape for stowage and carriage,"

One pound of pemmican was thought to be equal in nutritive value to four pounds of ordinary meat. Leaves of the wild mint were frequently added for flavor, as were pounded chokecherries (including the stones, which gave the pemmican a sand-like texture), or pounded saskatoon berries. And one gathers from comments by explorers that hair, soil, sticks, and stones were common adulterants. ************ HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF ALBERTA

7— WHOOP-UP COUNTRY, CHAPTER

Number 6 NEWSLETTER December, 1974

Membership in the Whoop-up Country Chapter, Historical Society of Alberta, Including a subscription to the quarterly Alberta Historical Review, newsletters, and notice of meetings, can be obtained for $4.00 per year. Send membership dues to: Mrs. Lucille Dalke, Treasurer, Whoop-up Country Chapter, P. 0. Box 974, Lethbridge, Alberta TIJ 4A2

SOCIETY OFFICERS FOR 1974-1975 extend Christmas Greetings

and all good wishes for a Happy New Year

CAPTAIN JOHN PALLISER

The famous Palliser Expedition explored western Canada in the years 1857, 1858, 1859, and 1860. One of Its most significant findings was the delineation of "Palliser's Triangle" (as it became known in later years) and the "Fertile Belt". The former corresponded roughly to the Brown Soil Zone and the latter to the Dark Brown and Black Soil zones of western Canada. Dr. James Hector, a doctor-geologist-natural 1st with the Expedition, Identified the three Prairie Steppes, which we have always thought was quite a feat.

Captain John Palliser, the leader of the Expedition, was in southern Alberta on a couple of occasions. He didn't think much of the country.

On the first occasion. In July, 1858, Palliser was In camp near modern Calgary and decided that he should have a look at the region along the boundary line in the vicinity of Chief Mountain.

|re are excerpts about the trip from his diary:

"July 31st, 1858.—Our camp, which we have called Slaughter Camp, is situated on the banks of a small tribu­ tary to the South Saskatchewan, In latitude 51° 21'; longitude 113^50'. Here we enjoyed a magnificent view of the Rocky Mountains as the sun set behind their snowy peaks. /Slaughter Camp, where Palliser's men dressed out 17 buffalo cows, was located a few miles northeast of modern Calgary./ >,%^^ ••" "••••''•«-4r3<<.or.

n»"'»^ ;

^ ' *-*.,-/ /*•-•«• • •«»«»r .r^ i#^ Afl^ «(«W HnylliU:

T iJ A'J ^ It !•: AT /> 'J. A i >V S Th^nm,! ScCl' poor, H.ir-ba.'jB scaa/y. no woo

»'j' ;wA- I Siln of '

AvOr^Jv^

>>* ...... -, .- j '>s:::li-^:i.:£>i.':ssiy^.r-:rz:.;.:

2?'*iSr.,2?--'.:!i'"^-:'*-'

Portion of Palliser'i mp, showing .southern Albprta. ^X;-...^lihfijttap'Jis a copy of "•^^^^j. a copy and is not "very" clear in plac^es. A "August 1st.--Men occupied in slicing and drying the meat and I in organizing the different branch expedi­ tions. Remained here until the 3rd of August.

"August 3rd.--Being unwilling to cross the mountains without previously knowing something further of the British territory to the south, and also being anxious to see what kind of land or what the quality of the land was in the neighbourhood of the international line from the base of the Rocky Mountains towards the east, I determined to make a rapid journey to the boundary line, distant about 170 miles. I arranged that Dr. Hector should ascend into the mountains in any direction which he thought most conducive to the interests of geological and geographical science; that Captain Blackiston should explore the two passes generally used by the Coutanies, crossing the mountains by the more northerly pass and returning by the more southerly one. I gave Mons. Bourgeau instructions to penetrate into the mountains as far as he thought conducive to the interests of botanical science. And to myself I resumed the exploration of a pass, the existence of which I had heard of when in the American Indian country in jthe year 1848, from Mr. James Sinclair, a very intelli­ gent half-breed, well known and deeply regretted,^ /He was shot unintentionally in an Indian row with the Americans at the Cascades on the Columbia River_^

"Having made the above arrangements, I purposed, when I had visited the country in the neighbourhood of the boundary line, to return to the northward, and to meet the men and horses not appointed for the several branch trips. I had ordered these men to await Mons. Bourgeau's return from_the mountains and also my re­ turn from the boundary line, our place of meeting to be the Old Bow Fort, /Old Bow Fort, known also as Peigan Post, was located nearjnodern Morley. It was built by the Hudson's Bay Company in 1833 but was abandoned within five months_^ situated in latitude 51° 9'; longitude 115° 4'. From this neighbourhood the buffalo were then not far off (as we had met them at Slaughter Camp), and I desired the hunters to kill, cut up, dry meat, and make "caches" for each party, who would find their shares buried for them as they arrived in succession from the mountain branch, with the several branch parties under their command. I well knew that none of us would find much game in the mountains, and each would be glad to avail himself of the pro­ visions by-and-bye which I was then organizing for them.

"Having made the best arrangements in my power for fitting out and providing for the several branch parties, conducted severally by Dr. Hector, Lieut, (now Captain) Blackiston, and Monsieur Bourgeau, I prepared for my trip to the western extremity of the English boundary line, accompanied by my secretary Mr. Sullivan, our servant James Beads, Batiste Gabriel, and two more men, and 13 horses in all. "We started from the Slaughter Camp, in long, 113° 50', lat. 51° 21', at noon. On the 3rd of August our course was due south. We knew we had but arid plain to cross, with little hopes of water, save what a chance swamp might afford, until we fell on the South Saskatchewan River, Rode fast, and at about 6 p,m. arrived on the borders of a lake about two miles long, and more than a quarter of a mile wide. Found its watei^s salt, rested the horses for a short while, and, resuming once more our southern course, travelled till long after dark; camped without either wood or water. "August 4th.—When we awoke this morning we found_ourselves abou_t two miles distant from the river, saddled up and hurried down there as fast as possible. /Jhe Bow River^ The river banks were about 120 feet high, and the river valley about one mile in breadth, bearing a fair growth of willow^poplar, and berry-bearing bushes. One rough bark poplar there measured 9 ft. 7 in. in circumference, and we saw a fine hummock of spruce fir about two miles higher up the stream. We found the river about 200 yeards wide, and its channel deep. Latitude where we crossed 50° 55', Crossed our saddles, guns, and other effects, which were neither numerous nor heavy, in the leather tent, folding it up in a round shape and wrapping the edges round a rope which confined it all round. We swam the horses across, and hauled our tent leather boat after us by cords . attached to it, and found the stream bitterly cold, owing to our proximity to the mountains, in consequence of which the temperature of the water was not much higher than that of the glacier from which it emanated. On resuming our course to the southward, we found ourselves once more within the fertile belt; the land was good, and rolling in character, though frequently covered with boulders, which impeded our progress. The feeders to the south branch contained considerable growths of timber of a fair size. The valley and the country adjoining, which was undulating, contained fertile land and willow and poplar brush on its northern exposures. We crossed Pine Creek and Sheep River; the latter was a stream about 90 yards wide, and three feet deep, its valley about half a mile wide and well wooded, and here we camped for the night, after having travelled about 17 miles on a south course,

"August 5th.—Had a very heavy thunderstorm and rain during the night, and in the morning we found that snow had fallen on the mountains, which now presented quite a wintry aspect. It was cold and wet, we did not get off till eight o'clock. Stopped to breakfast at 11,15, made 12 miles, easy travelling. The coulees were not so abrupt as yesterday, the timber was better generally, although none of it could be called valuable. Measured a balsam poplar, 9h feet in girth at the height of my shoulder. Saw plenty of spruce fir on two insignificant tributaries which we crossed. I could not obtain a noon observation, but guessed the latitude of where we crossed the second creek and breakfasted, to be 50° 30'. Started off again at 1, and soon after saw a single buffalo cow. Changed my saddle on to Pharaoh, who was running light. He took me a long run to the east, almost to the edge of the plains. Again I carried off as much meat as I could stow away, and came up at seven in the evening with the rest of my party at the north-west extremity of a high hill. This hill I climbed, and found a spring near the top, from which trickled a beautifully clear spring, half choked with buffalo bones; these lay in masses around. Probably a large band had perished there, rolled one over the other in a snow drift. Got lat. Polaris 50° 6!,

"August 6th.--Started at seven, found we were now riding along the western flank of the Porcupine Hills. Crossed a tributary to Bow River of considerable size, name unknown. Proposed to the men to call it Arrow River, as it belonged to Bow River. The proposition was highly approved of, and this stream is now Riviere de la Fleche; /There is some question about this stream as the name "Arrow River" was not accepted. On Palliser's map of routes of the Expedition the river is marked "Old Man or Arrow River" and seems to refer to the modern Oldman River north of Lundbreck, But the location he gives would have put him on the North Fork o.f Willow Creek, west of modern Stavely. His description of the region also seems to favor the North Fork_^ Arrived at Montagne des Porque epique, or Porcupine Hills, and camped at a considerable elevation. Saw some very old stunted cedars; was disappointed at the timber. The whole place was more or less destroyed by fires,

"August 7th,--Started early from Porcupine Hills, preserving still (as much as the inequalities of the ground permitted) a south course; arrived at U^s at Little Belly River, crossed it in lat, 49° 32', During the whole of the forenoon travelled over poor flinty and sandy country; during our ride this afternoon the land greatly improved in character, and was, in some places, rich; travelled about 14 miles since noon,

"August 8th,--Started at 9, travelled till llJj, took observation, lat, 49° 5', and camped about six miles and in full view of the Chief Mountain, thus accomplishing our journey of over 180 miles in five days. "Leaving Mr, Sullivan in charge of the camp, about 5 miles from the boundary line, I took with me Batiste Gabriel, a first rate rider and smart little hunter. We were both mounted on the best buffalo runners, and started for the boundary line in a E.S.E. direction; these horses had done no work, but had been trotting free during our journey from Slaughter Camp, so that I had means for getting over a good deal of ground, and making the best use of my time on the only day I could spare for examining the western extremity of the British boundary line on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains. I was, most probably, the only white man that had ever been there. After a sharp ride of about 15 miles we ascended a conical hill, about 16 or 18 hundred feet above the. plain, which I called Observation Mountain, situated from Chief Mountain a little to the north of east. /Local tradition has it that Palliser's "Observation Mountain" is the present Lookout Butte. But Birdseye Butte, a little to the northwest, is higher and must have been the first high hill to be encountered by Palliser. We are inclined to the belief that Birdseye Butte, rather than Lookout Butte, is the Observation Mountain of Captain John Palliser_^ This hill is a portion of a range of rocky spur running at right angles from the chain of which Chief Mountain forms so prominent a feature. Ascending Observation Hill we rode through forest to a considerable height; before emerging from the trees the hill became grassy and very steep. Dismounting, we attached our horses to two trees and climbed to the top of the hill. The very great extent of view from this high hill top well rewarded the exertion. I could now trace the feeders of the South Saskatchewan by their fringes of poplar and willow, or by their banks along the sandy waste, as they rose from their reservoirs in the mountains, taking first an eastern course, and then bending away to the northward. In the N.E., almost at our feet, lay the Gros Ventre Lake, from which I could trace the Belly River running to the eastward, and finally sweeping away to the north, to pour its waters into the South Saskatchewan, I saw, however, no tributary from that point of observation likely to prove a feeder to the Missouri; all waters after running a few miles to the eastward bore away to the north­ ward. As far as the eye could reach to the north and east was an apparently boundless sandy plain. The sun set gloriously behind the Chief Mountain just as I would have given anything for one half-hour's longer light, /My view to the_southward was limited by high broken land jutting into the plain behind me as I stood facing the north^/ A splendid moose then stepped out of the woods about three-quarters of a mile be­ low us, displaying his gigantic though somewhat grotesque proportions. Batiste lamented the approach of night, on account of the proximity of the moose. But we had no time to lose, we had a long ride before us, so hurried down to our horses, and reached the plains as twilight ceased; we then started for our camp, but what with the numerous lakes, and the quantity of woods through which we had to force our way, we had to give it up, unsaddle and hobble the horses, lighted a fire, and waited till day-break,

"August 9th,'--We found the horses at daylight, and found ourselves not more than three miles from camp, rode in and found them all asleep, got breakfast, rested, and got away on our journey north again at 2% p,m, "August 10th,--Started early, travelled along the track we had made on our way to the boundary line, passed our camp where we had slept on the night of the 7th, breakfasted where we had breakfasted on the morning of the 7th; after breakfast diverged from our former track, as we were bound for the Old Bow Fort, which was both considerably to the westward and southward of Slaughter Camp, from whence we had started, we therefore crossed Belly River a little nearer the mountains, in lat. 49° 34'; here were exposed some remarkably fine sections of sandstone on the banks of the river, some of them nearly 200 feet high and in curious fantastic shapes, and varying in their colour, which sometimes was that of rusty iron, and in other places bright red, "August nth.--Our provisions quite exhausted. Stopped at 11; while in the act of dismounting a deer jumped out of the bush quite close to me and I shot it. Took latitude 40° 57', "In the afternoon fell on an Indian trail, which took us along a narrow ledge of land elevated some 20 or 30 feet from the lands on our west, and more than 200 feet higher than the prairie which dipped suddenly into a great basin. The plateau we were riding along was never more than 200 yards wide, and in some places not more than half that number of feet across; this singular strip of table-land extended for four miles, due north and south, and in the bottom of the basin were three long lakes divided the one from the other by narrow rushy swamps, indeed the third lake was more a swamp than a lake. /These were the Chain Lakes, The valley in which the three lakes lay has been dammed at both ends and maae into a single reservoir. The region surrounding the former Chain Lakes is now a Provincial Park, much used by people from Calgary^ Batiste and I descended the plateau into the basin with great difficulty, on account of its steepness, in order to hunt an elk at the west side of the swamp, in which we were uncommonly near leaving our horses, who sank to their bellies; we had considerable trouble to get them out, and had to climb the plateau again, along the top of which we had to continue, and after dark caught sight of my party's camp fire. On the second occasion, the Expedition arrived at the Cypress Hills in late July, 1859, Palliser described the Hills, which he called the Cypress Mountains, as being about 1600 feet above the plain, covered in fine timber, abounding in excellent grass, well watered, and fairly though not abundantly stocked with game. The party remained for some days in the Hills to hunt and make provisions as their own supplies were low. On August 3rd, having converted the red deer (elk) and buffalo they had killed into pemmican, they broke camp, Palliser and his secretary, Mr. Sullivan, proceeded westward from the Hills toward the Kootenay Pass (just south of the Crowsnest Pass). The trip brought him quite close to the present site of Lethbridge, He was not impressed with the country and reported in a letter to England that, "It would be needless to occupy your time with a minute description of the country traversed. It is a level, sandy, arid plain, the very insignifi­ cant tributaries to the South Saskatchewan were nearly dried up, appearing here and there as pools of water. The few swamps (sloughs) on which we were almost wholly dependent for water, with a few exceptions, were brackish and impregnated with sulphates, and the grass barely sufficed to feed the horses," Palliser's map of the route followed shows him passing a few miles south of the present site of Lethbridge. One supposes that he adopted the common practice of staying far enough back from the river to avoid the many coulees that ran into it. He does not show the St, Mary River on his map but does indicate the Waterton and Belly Rivers, Also, he shows the "U-shape" of the Oldman River at Lethbridge, where the river swings south, then northward again. He has the junction of the Belly and Oldman Rivers at this point, rather than a few miles upstream.

Palliser describes the river valley at Lethbridge as a "Grassy valley, steep banks". He crossed the Belly River southwest of Lethbridge and noted, "Crossing place, stream deep and swift". The plain about Lethbridge was described as "Dead level & \/ery arid". Southeast of the present site of Lethbridge he showed on his map "Cabre Camp" and drew an outline of a tipi. (The "cabre" was the antelope of the plains.) Here are excerpts about the trip from Palliser's diary: "August 3rd, 1859:--0n this day our party broke up: Captain Brisco and Mr. Mitchell started for the south, en route to Fort Benton on the Upper Missouri. Doctor Hector shortly afterwards started for the Old Bow Fort, accompanied by our servant Beads, Burnham, M'L and Oliver, and the Stoney hunter. Dr. Hector's ob­ ject was to connect the passes which he had previously explored across the Rocky Mountains with the Forks of Frazer's and Thompson's Rivers in British Columbia by a northerly route, avoiding the valley of the Columbia. . "August 4th.--Travelled along a sandy plain, interspersed by a few insignificant swamps and pools, most of which were salt. Passed to the northward of the three remarkable American hills, known in the maps by the name of "Trois Buttes;" they were about 40 miles to our south. Owing to the level nature of the intervening country and the detached structure of these hills, they appeared like the tops of three distinct rocks seen over a sea horizon. Here our well-worn carts, so often previously patched up, began to give way altogether, and the first total smash occurred; the cart was actually crushed beyond hope or any efforts to repair. Made about 24 miles. In the night we had heavy rain, and consequently enjoyed good water,

"August 5th,--Started early, pursuing our course along the boundary line. Another cart broke down, and we had to distribute its load among the others; we were now reduced to five carts, I cut off the shafts, and took away other portions which might prove useful in repairing future accidents. At noon we came upon a large perfectly dry river-bed, about 500 or 600 yeards across; my Blackfoot half-breed assured me there had been no water in it since the time of the. flood, and it was in consequence of a different order of things, that the Missouri now flowed instead, /^Likely this was Chin Coulee, Palliser was probably south of Seven Persons and Forty Mile Coulees at the time. The latitude given in the diary (49025') would have put the party o.n Etzikom Coulee, just at the north end of Pakowki Lake. However, Etzikom Coulee is quite shallow there_^ I did not argue the point, but agreed with him that the waters from this singular river once flowed into the Missouri, We had great difficulty to descend into this ravine, and had to follow along the crest of the left bank for several miles, before we could effect a descent, where the general height of the banks was from 180 to 240 feet. We travelled along this river-bed back to the southward. Found a cluster of small springs, containing excellent water. Breakfasted a little before 12, in latitude 49°25' N.: made 17 miles,

"August 6th,--Made 12 miles before breakfast over an arid plain, A violent thunderstorm came on, which lasted till 1,30 p.m. After this it cleared up, and we still saw the "Trois Buttes" bearing to the E. of S, of us, looking wonderfully clear considering their great distance. We were travelling over a_n arid prairie, so level as to be devoid of any points by which we could continue our direction unvaried. /Jhe level land was undoubtedly the old glacial lake beds, of the Taber-Lethbridge region, the area that now makes up part of the irrigated lands of southern Alberta_^ The sun became overcast, and we had frequent recourse to our com­ passes. The day was very cold, accompanied by wind. We camped without water, but it fortunately came on to rain in the night. "August 7th,--We were in sight of the Rocky Mountains. We now guarded the horses no more; from the point where we all separated the dangers arising from horse-thieves were daily diminishing as we progressed to the westward. Started a little after 6; stopped at 11, where there was a little water, both brackish and sul­ phureous. Killed an antelope while the others were camping, not expecting to find water; the pursuit of the animal took Felix and me over some miles of country, in crossing which we came upon a fresh-water swamp. Fe.lix returned to camp to apprise the men, who came up with me a little after dark. Latitude 49° 47' N. /Jhis was the location of "Cabre Camp", shown on the accompanying map. At this time the party was in the Lethbridge region, probably a few miles southeast of the prese^nt location of the city, "Cabre" was the French-Canadien hunters' name for the antelope of the plains^

"August 8th,--Started at 7; made 10 miles; arrived at Belly River and had some difficulty in finding a crossing-place; the men had proposed deferring the crossing till to-morrow, as it was now late, I overruled this however, and promised to serve out tea and sugar if the crossing was effected that evening. All worked hard, we rolled up the tents into the form of bowls, used them as boats to transport the baggage, and swam the horses across. I preferred doing this late in the evening, as we not only gained time, but were enabled to go into the water at a higher temperature than if we had waited till morning. Our tea and sugar were now rare luxuries, which we enjoyed only on Sundays and particular occasions.

"August 9th,--Started for the Porcupine Hills, which we had visited about this time last year, when on our branch trip from Slaughter Camp to the boundary line. We had now traversed the level arid plain through which the 49th parallel runs, and had suffered a good deal from scarcity of good water and grass. The few small swamps and marshes on which we were forced to depend, were all more or less impregnated with sulphates, and the grass in their neighbourhood scarcely sufficed to feed our horses. In the evening of this date we arrived on a tributary of Belly River, where we killed some deer. Lat, at noon, 49° 44' N. **********

THE GEOLOGICAL HISTORY OF THE CANADIAN PRAIRIES The geological history of the Canadian prairies since mid-Cretaceous time begins about 90 million years ago. At that time the region that is now the Canadian prairies was beneath the water of a great inland sea (called the Colorado Sea), which stretched from the Arctic to the Gulf of Mexico, and lapped on the west over much of the area now occupied by the Rocky Mountains. To find uplands in those days one would have had to go to what are now the Selkirk Mountains and other interior ranges of British Columbia. This sea was muddy, and in it a _great thickness of sediments accumulated, which today constitutes the widespread Alberta shale and related formations. These carry the fossils of sea shells and the occasional bone of a marine reptile or fish, but dinosaur remains are absent as these animals were of a terrestial ..or aquatic habitat, but never,.as. far as we know, marine.

Eventually this interior sea was broken in the region that is now central and northern Alberta, probably by gentle upwarping or tilting of the land. The same movement drove back the western margin, so as to establish a broad coastal plain, with deltas, lakes, and lagoons. This kind of country, probably something like parts of Florida or the Mississippi River Delta today, was a favorite with the dinosaurs, and they moved in large numbers. The carcasses of those that died may have been devoured by flesh-eaters, or destroyed by decomposi­ tion, but some were buried in the sands and clays that were accumulating in the flood plains and estuaries. Here they were reduced to skeletons which gradually became mineralized. The sea margin advanced and retreated, producing alterations of marine or freshwater deposits, but the coastal plain persisted, sometimes restricted to what is now the foothills belt of Alberta, sometimes spreading far into the future areas of southern Saskatchewan. The final withdrawal of the sea from the Canadian plains region dates from late in the Cretaceous period, just before the extinction of the dinosaurs. But conditions on the land did not change much at first; the subtropical, well-watered lowlands persisted for millions of years into the Tertiary period, or Age of Mammals. Toward the end of the Eocene epoch, about 45 million years ago, the land began to rise, and as a result of compressive forces, great blocks of the earth's crust buckled and overrode each other. In this way the Rocky Mountains, as we know than today, were formed. Swift rivers from the new mountains carried coarse gravel eastwards to be deposited as thick accumulations over the Cretaceous and early Tertiary sediments. New levels of land surface were established, to be eroded in turn as the result of further evolu­ tion, and renewed gravel accumulation. The final great geological event was the Ice Age, 'Massive sheets of ice advanced from the northeast; valley glaciers came down from the mountains. The plains were deeply eroded in places, while elsewhere thick deposits of glacial debris were deposited on the older sediments. Finally the ice withdrew for the last time, and streams re-established themselves, sometimes in their pre-glacial channels, sometimes in valleys newly cut. The climate became drier, and the vegetation sparse. The lack of protection permitted erosion to cut down through the glacial deposits and expose the Cretaceous rocks, and those that were soft and clayey were readily weathered into the intricate forms of landscape that we call badlands. Patches of badlands occur in Saskatchewan, in Big Muddy and Willowbunch valleys, along the Frenchman River, and in an area south of Wood Mountain. In Alberta almost all of the major streams of the south, from Battle River to Milk River, have stretches of valley where the sides have been eroded into badlands. It is along the Red Deer River valley, however, that such areas are most extensive and most spectacular. Northeast of Brooks is the famous Steveville-Deadlodge Canyon area, now incorporated into Dinosaur Provincial Park. The rocks exposed here be­ long to the Oldman formation, or as they are known in the older publications, the Belly River series. Above these Oldman sandstones and clays, and forming the valley walls from Steveville to Rosebud, are the dark marine shales of the Bearpaw formation. These contain fossil sea shells and the occasional bone of sea reptiles. Above the Bearpaw shales, and appearing in the northern area of the badlands from Rosebud to beyond Big Valley, is the Edmonton formation. The rocks of this formation resemble those of the Oldman formation, but contain numerous coal seams, which are mined at various centers, especially Drumheller, Dinosaur fossils occur in the Edmonton rocks, but are not as numerous or as varied as in the Oldman formation.

********** PRONG-HORNED ANTELOPE The pronghorn, or prairie antelope, is the only surviving member of a host of former species and is a true native of North America. It is found nowhere else on earth. The French-Canadien hunters called them "Cabree", a word that seemed to be Indian in origin. Cabri, Saskatchewan, was named because of the presence of pronghorn antelope in the district.

The Cree Indians called them MY-ATTEHK while the Blackfoot knew them as SAUKI-OWAKASS, literally "prairie deer". Both groups hunted antelope primarily for their soft skins, which were made into clothing, rather than the limited amount of meat that they carry.

The pronghorn is not a member of the antelope family of Europe, Asia, or Africa. Rather, it seems to occupy an intermediate position between the goat and the deer. Its horns are hollow, like those of cattle or goats, yet it sheds the outer horn sheath and renews it annually, somewhat like the deer. It has the caution and timidity of the deer and the curiosity of the goat. It is a prairie animal adapted for speed, and the foot is so far modified by evolution for this that the dew claws have disappeared. It is more closely related to cattle than to deer in skeletal characteristics. At one time the pronghorn ranged in Alberta from the North Saskatchewan River to the International Boundary but now is confined mostly to the open plains south of Brooks, The pronghorn is well suited to the plains environment. Its sense of sight is such that it can see danger from a great distance. The antelope is equipped with a signal system which enables it to communicate danger at great distances. This is the white patch on the rump, which can become a flare of white by the constric­ tion of muscles under the skin. These signals can be seen farther than the animal itself, and flash in the sun like a tin pan. It is probably the world's fastest mammal, and many Alberta residents have paced antelope at 40-45 mph with an automobile. It can maintain a high rate of speed for miles, running with the mouth wide open and the tongue protruding, literally gulping air through its throat, which is about twice the diameter of any animal of comparable size. (Strangely enough, they do not always run from a car, but may race alongside it, or sometimes gallop on a converging route and then cross in front of the automobile.) They have never learned to jump and cross fences, not by jumping over them, but by crawling through them. Even at full speed an antelope hardly seems to pause when it comes to a fence but slides through or under it and continues on its way. It is a very curious animal, wants to observe any unusual object or activity, and this makes it an easy mark for hunters. Until comparatively recently, they were not alarmed by the sound of a gun and were attracted by the dust made by the bullet striking the ground. At one time they were as numerous as the buffalo but the population has been drastically reduced by cultiva­ tion of the prairie and over-hunting. They nearly became extinct in Alberta around the turn of the century but protection and game management brought them back from the brink. Now there are about 4,000 head in the southern part of the province. **********

THE CYPRESS HILLS Located on the boundary between Alberta and Saskatchewan, the Cypress Hills are a kind of geological joke. Fossils of figs and three-toed horses have been found there and, south of the hills, scorpions and horned toads appear. They stretch for 100 miles from east to west, crossing the Alberta-Saskatchewan border about 50 miles north of Montana, The north slopes and higher elevations of the hills are forested. And hills they are, reaching elevations of from 4,000 to 4,500 feet above sea level. The Cree Indians called them "Mun-a-tuh-gow", or Beautiful Upland, a singularly appropriate name. The Blackfoot knew them as "Ai-ekum-ekwe", a term that means "Earth over earth". The early French hunters called all evergreen trees "le cypres" and, therefore, called the hills "Les montagnes des cypres". The English Anglicized the name to "The Cypress Hills", Geologists believe the hills were formed about 40 million years ago when a great river flowed eastward from the forerunner of the present Rocky Mountains. When the river dried up it left a wide expanse of cobble­ stone and gravel, called the Saskatchewan gravels, which included the bones of three-toed horses and other buried remains. The surrounding country eroded away over millions of years and left the former riverbed sitting high and dry as the Cypress Hills, Many think the vegetation of the hills is tropical in nature. This is not true. Rather, the vegetation is the same as that of the Rocky Mountains 150 miles to the west. Fifteen thousand years ago this vegetation grew in a narrow band in front of the advancing Continental ice sheet. As the ice sheet melted the dry and arid plains crept northward, eventually cutting off such features as the Sweetgrass Hills and the Cypress Hills, The forest vegetation persists only at high elevations, where the climate is similar to that of the Rocky Mountains.

********** MILK RIVER The Milk River is unique in Canada in that it is part of the Mississippi River drainage system. And because that part of Alberta is located in the upper reaches of the Mississippi drainage basin, it contains animals and plants not found anywhere else in the country. These include the western painted turtle, a particular kind of fish, scorpions, homed toads or lizards, the Pronuba moth, and the Yucca plant. "The name. Milk River, comes from an incident that happened during the exploration of the northern United States by the Lewis and Clark Expedition of 1804-1806. On Wednesday, May 8th, 1805, the expedition, then ascending the Missouri River, passed the mouth of a smaller river. Lewis wrote this in his diary: "We nooned it above the entrance of a large river that disimbogues on the starboard side. The water of this river possesses a peculiar whiteness, being about the color of a cup of tea with the admixture of a table­ spoon of milk. From the color of its waters we called it Milk River,"

The Indians knew the Milk River as "Ki-nock-sis-sah-ti", or "Little River", in contrast to Missouri, which meant "Big South River". The town of Milk River boasts that the region has been under eight flags, again caused by the locality being part of the Mississippi-Missouri watershed. The flags were: 1682--France, land claimed by LaSalle; 1762--land obtained by Spain from France; 1800--Spain ceded the region to Napoleon; 1803--Louisiana purchased by the United States from France; 1818--Britain and the United States established the 49th parallel of latitude as the International boundary, the Canadian portion of the Mississippi-Missouri drainage being administered by the Hudson's Bay Company; 1870—the region was turned over to the new Dominion of Canada by the Hudson's Bay Company and the British government; 1945--the Red Ensign became the official Canadian flag; and in 1965, the present Canadian flag was designed and adopted. The townspeople of Milk River could add the trading flag of the whiskey traders, who were in the region from about 1869 to 1874, **********

SIGN LANGUAGE An interesting adaptation to the plains environment was the development of a universal sign language by the Indians of the region. Although there are different versions as to why it was invented, the concensus seems to be that it was a response to the need to communicate over vast prairie distances and, second, to the need to observe silence during hunting or war. One supposes that the idea came originally from observations of the prong-horned antelope, which is equipped with a signal system that enables it to communicate danger at great distances. This is the white patch on the rump, lighter in color than the remainder of the body. When frightened or interested in anything unusual the antelope contracts its muscles and the patch becomes a flare of white. This signal can be seen farther than the antelope itself, early explorers telling how the signal flashed in the sun "like a tin pan". An added bonus of the sign language was that it permitted communication among the various tribes, or between the tribes and some whitemen, even when the language among them differed, **********