exploring the maloti drakensberg route

the maloti drakensberg experience see travel map inside this flap❯❯❯

the maloti drakensberg experience

the maloti drakensberg experience

…the person who practices ecotourism has the opportunity of immersing him or herself in nature in a way that most people cannot enjoy in their routine, urban existences. This person “will eventually acquire a consciousness and knowledge of the natural environment, together with its cultural aspects, that will convert him or her into somebody keenly involved in conservation issues… héctor ceballos-lascuráin

internationally renowned ecotourism expert” travel tips for the maloti drakensberg region

Eastern Cape Tourism Board +27 (0)43 701 9600 www.ectb.co.za, [email protected] lesotho south africa Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife currency Maloti (M), divided into 100 lisente (cents), have currency The Rand (R) is divided into 100 cents. Most +27 (0)33 845 1999 an equivalent value to South African rand which are used traveller’s cheques are accepted at banks and at some shops www.kznwildlife.com; [email protected] interchangeably in Lesotho. Note that Maloti are not accepted and hotels. Major credit cards are accepted in most towns. Free State Tourism Authority in South Africa in place of rand. banks All towns will have at least one bank. Open Mon to Fri: +27 (0)51 411 4300 Traveller’s cheques and major credit cards are generally 09h00–15h30, Sat: 09h00–11h00. Autobanks (or ATMs) are www.dteea.fs.gov.za accepted in Maseru. All foreign currency exchange should be found in most towns and operate on a 24-hour basis. Lesotho Tourism Development Corporation (LTDC) conducted in Maseru. language South Africa has 11 offi cial languages. Most people +266 22 312 238 banks There are three commercial banks – Standard Bank, can speak some English. www.ltdc.org.ls; [email protected] NedBank and Lesotho Bank – offering exchange services telephones All towns have modern telephone services. Tourism KwaZulu-Natal in their Maseru branches. Open Weekdays (excl Wed): Cellular reception is good in most towns and coverage +27 (0)31 366 7500 08h30–15h30, Wed: 08h30–13h00, Sat: 08h30–11h00. extends to many rural areas. Roaming agreements exist www.zulu.org.za; [email protected] or language The offi cial languages are Sesotho and English. Many with international mobile phone companies. To call within South African National Parks Basotho can speak English. South Africa dial the three digit area code (starting with a 0) +27 (0)12 426 5000 telephones Services are available in main towns. Automatic followed by the number. To reach an international number www.sanparks.com trunk services operate between Lesotho and South Africa. dial 00 followed by the country code. South Africa’s country Satellite connections are also available to some countries. code is +27 weather Generally sunny, with cold, dry winters Cell phone roaming is available for South African visitors, but postal services Post services are available in most towns. and hot, wet summers. In high-lying areas not yet with other countries. Cellular reception is good in the Open Mon to Fri: 08h30–16h30, Sat: 08h00–11h30. Some temperatures fl uctuate enormously, even in lowlands. International numbers from Lesotho are dialed with close for lunch from 13:00–14:00. Numerous courier services summer. Snow has been recorded in every 00 followed by the country code. Lesotho’s code is +266. are also available. month of the year. Winters (May to July) can be postal services Post offi ces are open Mon to Fri 08h00–16h30, air travel The national airline is South African Airways (SAA) extremely cold and snowy. Summer (December Sat 08h00–12h00. (website: www.fl ysaa.com). Many other airlines operate in to February) can get very hot. Summer and spring air travel SA Air Link (Tel +266 22 350 418/9) fl ies between South Africa and offer frequent fl ights from all over the world. are characterized by frequent thunder storms. Moshoeshoe I International Airport (Maseru) and OR Tambo OR Tambo International Airport (in Johannesburg) is the main International Airport (Johannesburg). Sun–Fri: 3 fl ights a day; South African airport; connect to Moshoeshoe I International standard time The whole region is 2 hours ahead of Sat: 4 fl ights. Lesotho also has 27 airstrips. Airport in Lesotho, or to Durban, Bloemfontein or East London, Greenwich Mean Time (GMT +2). road travel Most of the gravel roads are in good condition. The among others. extreme topography does mean that most roads, especially in road travel South African roads are mostly tarred, and public holidays the highlands, have sharp bends and steep hills, resulting in generally in good condition. Rural roads may require caution. New Year’s Day 1 Jan slower than anticipated progress. petrol and diesel Petrol and diesel are available in most South Moshoeshoe’s Day (Lesotho) 11 Mar car hire There are car and 4x4 rental companies based in African towns. Human Rights Day (SA) 21 Mar Maseru, including Avis, Budget and Imperial. driving licences International driving permits are recognized Good Friday Variable driving licences International driving permits are recognized in South Africa. Driving licences from most countries are also Easter Monday Variable in Lesotho. Driving licences issued in most countries are also valid for up to twelve months. They should be printed in Ascension Day (Lesotho) Variable valid, up to a period of 6 months. They should be printed in English, or accompanied by a certifi ed translation. Africa/Hero’s Day (Lesotho) 25 May English, or accompanied by a certifi ed translation. car hire To hire a car, travellers must have held a valid driving Freedom Day (SA) 27 Apr petrol and diesel Petrol and diesel are available in larger license for fi ve years. Most airports offer car hire facilities. Worker’s Day 1 May towns. It is advisable to fi ll up when you see a pump, rather National contact numbers for some of the main car rental Youth Day (SA) 16 Jun than waiting until your tank is nearly empty. companies are: Avis: +27 (0)861 021 111, Budget: King’s Birthday (Lesotho) 17 Jul taxis There are a number of private taxi companies operating +27 (0)861 016 622, Hertz: +27 (0)861 600 136, Imperial Car National Women’s Day (SA) 9 Aug in Maseru. Contact the Lesotho Tourism Development Rental: +27 (0)861 131 000, Europcar: +27 (0)860 011 344 Heritage Day (SA) 24 Sep Corporation (LTDC) for more information. visa requirements All foreign visitors are required to carry a Independence Day (Lesotho) 4 Oct visa requirements Non-citizens must carry a passport. Visas are passport. Visas are required unless your country has a visa Christmas Day 25 Dec required unless your country has a visa abolition agreement abolition agreement with South Africa. Please contact your Boxing/Family Day (Lesotho/SA) 26 Dec with Lesotho (contact your Lesotho Embassy). Upon entering nearest South African Embassy. the country you will be granted a one-month stay. Extensions police +27 10111 can be applied for at the Immigration Offi ce in Maseru hospitals Medical facilities are good in urban areas, but more +266 22 323 771. limited elsewhere. Many doctors and hospitals require police Headquarters in Maseru +266 5888 1010 immediate cash payment. Comprehensive health insurance hospitals Q Elizabeth II (Maseru): +266 22 312 501, Maseru is recommended. A leafl et on health precautions is available Private: +266 22 313 260, Leribe: +266 22 400 305, Paray from the South African High Commission. (Thaba Tseka): +266 22 900 256, Mohale Dam Private: +266 22 936 228, Katse Dam Private: +266 22 910 348 exploring the maloti drakensberg route the maloti drakensberg experience the maloti drakensberg experience the maloti and drakensberg mountains in Lesotho and South Africa contain exploring the maloti drakensberg route irreplaceable resources: unique but fragile ecosystems that host a high concentration of First Edition Copyright © 2007 Maloti Drakensberg Transfrontier Project endemic plant species; places of cultural signifi cance; and important wetland systems that are a vital source of freshwater. These features, together with the extremely appealing scenery, give these mountains the potential to become an internationally preferred nature- and culture-based tourism destination.

publishers Maloti Drakensberg Transfrontier Project, www.maloti.org PO Box 1362, Howick, 3290 Jive Media, www.jivemedia.co.za PO Box 22106, Mayor’s Walk, 3208 foreword All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without prior permission of the publishers. Whilst every care has been taken in the compilation of this publication and information is believed to be accurate at It was against this backdrop that South Africa and the Kingdom of Lesotho launched the time of going to print, no liability can be accepted by the publishers for any errors or omissions. Maloti Drakensberg Transfrontier Conservation and Development Project (MDTP) in 2003, The production of this book was made possible through the use of grant funding from the Global Environmental Facility and the Maloti Drakensberg Transfrontier Project. fulfi lling the Memorandum of Understanding signed by the two countries in 2001. The project, funded by the Global Environment Facility (GEF) through the World Bank, has the ISBN 978-0-620-38148-2 conservation of the globally signifi cant biodiversity and cultural heritage of this region as its main objective. Linked to the conservation effort is promoting the sustainable contributors mdtp specialists Brent Corcoran, Elna de Beer, Duncan Heard, Tsepo Lepono, utilization of the many economic opportunities – especially tourism – arising from the Richard Lechmere-Oertel, Thato Parrow, Roger Uys wealth of natural and cultural resources of the region. specialist contributors Bill Bainbridge, Gideon Groenewald, Di Jones, Karen Kohler, Since the preparatory phase of the MDTP in 1999 there has been a strong focus on the Mamoabi Ralebitso (LTDC), Elsa Pooley, Frans Prins, Duncan Pritchard, Leon Tromp, James Wakelin writers need to support the marketing of tourism products, offered both by existing operators and Gail Cornhill, Sharon Grussendorff, Robert Inglis, Hilary Kromberg, Bridget Krone, Patrick Makkink, by new ventures, especially in Lesotho. To this end, a Memorandum of Agreement was Moraig Peden, Timothy Prigge, Monique Salomon directory database signed in Durban in May 2006 by a number of key tourism players in the region: Rob Cairns, Natasha Naidoo ■ Eastern Cape Tourism Board managing editors Leonore Beukes, Chaba Mokuku, Kevan Zunckel ■ Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife editors ■ Free State Tourism Authority Robert Inglis, John Inglis picture editor ■ Lesotho Tourism Development Corporation Hilary Kromberg ■ South African National Parks proofreader Derek Hawkins ■ Tourism KwaZulu-Natal photographs All photographs MDTP (Maloti Drakensberg Transfrontier Project) unless otherwise indicated. BB – Bill Bainbridge, PC – Peter Chadwick, GG – Gideon Groenewald, TH – Trevor Hardaker, The purpose of this MOA is to establish a framework of co-operation and collaboration DJ – Di Jones, AK – Anton Krone, FP – Frans Prins, SP – Stephen Pryke, BR – Brian Radford, based on a shared vision: to develop and position the area as a prime tourist destination. DS – Dirk Schwager, EW – Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife design The Maloti Drakensberg Experience aims to showcase the tourism products of the area, The Nimble Mouse, Kalk Bay, South Africa with its breathtaking scenic beauty, in support of the conservation and development goals layout and typeset John Bertram, Tangerine Design, Pietermaritzburg of the MDTP. It also carries a clear conservation message which we hope will encourage cartography visitors to behave responsibly and to protect the globally signifi cant resources of the Maloti Automobile Association of South Africa, www.aa.co.za and Drakensberg Mountains. icon design Maja Sereda, Bittersweet Studios We trust that you will enjoy your stay in the area and that your experiences will inspire you to return to these mountains for years to come. Any suggestions for improvements or amendments can be sent to [email protected] cover panorama Thundershowers over the foothills of the KwaZulu-Natal Drakensberg. photo: richard lechmere-oertel front cover Bearded vulture: photo: chris van rooyen, Protea Caffra: photo: ew back cover fl ap Sehlabathebe National Park, Lesotho. Chaba Mokuku Kevan Zunckel MDTP Project Co-ordinator MDTP Project Co-ordinator Lesotho South Africa table of contents

8 introduction 22 people of the 36 hiking and 46 pony 56 fl y-fi shing 66 rock art and maps mountains walking trekking

3 to and e 4 places 5 annual festivals

directory

O O

O OOOO

telephone

O OO +27 (0)33 330 7729

+27 (0)39 833 1029 O activities O

+27 (0)45 971 9078 O O

+27 (0)82 829 4978 O rest town establishment O

+27 (0)82 487 5385 Button Birding OOOO O ialized tours Africa Antiqua Cultural Tours O OO Dawn Green Tourist Guide +266 62 200 555 O O

Dinosaur Fossil Hunting Expeditions +27 (0)33 701 1741 O O Elsa Pooley Botanical Tours +27 (0)51 603 0160 O O Lesotho Off-Road Association +27 (0)82 407 9406 O OOO O Pied Piper Expeditions +27 (0)51 633 2263 O O O O +27 (0)51 633 3282 O Senqu Tourism O +27 (0)51 633 3777 OO Aligeo Khaya B&B O +27 (0)45 974 9228 OO OO Badfontein Guest Farm O O Aliwal North +27 (0)45 974 9261 Riverside Lodge O OO O +27 (0)45 971 9078 Thaba Nkulu O +27 (0)82 558 2597 Balloch Cottages OOOO OO dstone Guest Houseist Guide +27 (0)45 974 09260 4370 O O 78 fl oral 88 birding 98 stories in 108 engineering 118 adventure 129 directory splendour stone exploits tourism

8 the maloti drakensberg experience the maloti drakensberg experience 9 introduction the maloti drakensberg

he Maloti Drakensberg Mountains are an exquisite and This book aims to unlock the treasures of the Maloti Drakensberg mysterious living landscape. The formidable cliffs, rocky and promote the development of sustainable community tourism. gorges, rugged mountainsides and wilderness areas contain This is one way of contributing to the livelihoods of the people t an abundance of life and a colourful kaleidoscope of cultures. who are ultimately the custodians of these precious treasures.

8 9 he value of these mountains is recognized internationally the ukhahlamba through the World Heritage status of the uKhahlamba drakensberg t Drakensberg Park and the Ramsar listing of two wetland park – a world areas (namely the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park and the heritage site Lets’eng-la-Letsie wetland complex in Lesotho). This is reinforced nationally by the growing number of parks and conservation areas in This park incorporates 200 km Lesotho and South Africa. (See pages 14-21.) Parts of this region are of the Drakensberg Mountains, also the focus of the Maloti Drakensberg Transfrontier Conservation ranging in altitude from 1 600 Area. Funded by the Global Environment Fund, it has established ways metres to higher than 3 000 in which South Africa and Lesotho can work together for the conserva- metres above sea level. It was tion and sustainable development of the region. declared a world heritage site due to its globally signifi cant biodi- versity, rich cultural and historical culture and history signifi cance, and exceptional The captivating human history of these mountains dates back many natural beauty. An extensive network of trails thousands of years to the Stone Age. Much of the San rock art is still allows the visitor access to a vast intact. Wars and migrations have led to the area being occupied by a vital water source above High-altitude tarn many different people over the centuries, refl ected in the fascinating at Sehlabathebe National wilderness area that is carefully The Maloti Drakensberg Mountains represent one of the most important water managed to ensure protection of and diverse cultures of the people who live in the region today. The Park, Lesotho. photo: ak catchment areas in southern Africa. Presently, the industrialized province of its natural and unspoilt state. It is region is home to 26 different ethnic groups – many of whom still live Gauteng in South Africa has approximately 50 percent of its water needs met from envisaged that the neighbouring a traditional way of life. these mountains. This has been made possible by a transfrontier water transfer Sehlabathebe National Park in The mountains themselves have a pre-history of geological events scheme – The Lesotho Highlands Water Project – which traps water in huge dams Lesotho and the uKhahlamba – spanning more than 300 million years – which formed the southern high in the mountains and delivers it to where it is needed via a series of tunnels why are Drakensberg Park in South Africa Africa we know today. Embedded in the sediments of the geological wetlands will be combined into a transfron- and canals. It is estimated that by the year 2030, 70 percent of the people of the history is a rich fossil record, including dinosaur footprints estimated tier park. region will be reliant on water from these mountains. important? to be more than 200 million years old. The oldest known dinosaur eggs with embryos still intact were discovered in the Golden Gate There is growing below Game Pass Shelter, uKhahlamba Highlands National Park. biodiversity of the region understanding of Drakensberg Park. photo: boyd escott the signifi cance of previous The Drakensberg at sunset The Maloti Drakensberg region is renowned for its rich biodiversity. It contains wetlands, which from Vergelegen, uKhahlamba many species of fauna and fl ora that are found nowhere else in the world. support an amazing Drakensberg Park. photo: pc The lush indigenous forests offer cool respite from a hot day’s hiking. The grass- diversity of life and lands contain an amazing array of fl owering plants and small animals. The grasses play a role in fl ood alone display great diversity, being represented by more than 100 species. attenuation and in Among the larger animals are baboons and antelope such as Eland, Oribi and trapping, cleaning and Rhebuck. If you are lucky you could see Black-backed Jackal, Serval and Caracal. slowly releasing rain- There are at least 24 species of snake. Most are harmless, but you should be alert water. Unfortunately for the poisonous ones: Rinkhals (South African Spitting Cobra), Puffadder and they are under threat Berg Adder. The region is also rich in birdlife, with over 350 recorded species. since the fertility It provides homes for at least 10 internationally threatened bird species and 40 of the soil makes species which are found nowhere else in the world. them attractive for grazing and planting The high-altitude rivers and tarns contain the aquatic larvae of insects including crops. The Ramsar midges, mayfl ies and stonefl ies as well as a number of endemic shrimp species. convention recognizes They also hold the highly endangered Maloti Minnow – until recently thought to wetlands of interna- have been eradicated by the exotic (non-native) trout introduced over a century tional importance. ago.

10 the maloti drakensberg experience introduction and maps 11 right Controlled burning is a grassland management tool, but wildfi res can cause extensive damage. middle A growing number of people depend on the resources of these mountains. photo: ds far right A sample of the biodiversity of the Maloti Drakensberg region. The Wattled Crane is critically endangered. photo: sp

Another exciting feature are the so-called “paleogenic” invertebrates – similar to what does the future hold? ancient fossil species – which are generally limited to high mountain zones. They Unfortunately much of this mountain region is under threat. The threats include include velvet worms, carnivorous slugs, millipedes and centipedes – each of which loss of land to agriculture and housing estate developments, poor agricultural prac- has its role to play in sensitive ecosystems. tices such as overgrazing and uncontrolled burning, alien plant invasion and unwise questions land use decisions. The result is a steady loss in biodiversity. Some areas have been to land- caring for the environment declared “biodiversity hotspots”; they contain globally threatened species faced owners: with extinction. ■ Take nothing but photographs, leave nothing but footprints. do you … Among the biggest threats to the region are the growing numbers of people ■ Avoid walking off the paths, as this quickly leads to soil erosion and enables ■ make use of fi re who depend on these mountains for their survival. Those charged with conserva- alien species to become established. as a grassland tion are faced with the diffi cult task of balancing development needs with the management ■ Uncontrolled wildfi res are dangerous and destructive. Use camping stoves sensitivity of this ecologically important region. tool according rather than open fi res. Make sure matches and cigarette ends are properly Many strategies are being, or could be, applied to try and achieve this balance. greig stewart to a sound extinguished and take them away with you. Landowners are encouraged to consider future implications of their land-use deci- sions. Time and money spent now can safeguard land for the future. Examples scientifi c basis and ■ Baboons and other wild animals can become a danger to people if fed. Don’t include the careful use of fi re as a management tool, eradicating alien plants and understanding? feed any animals, no matter how cute. ■ eradicate alien rehabilitating damaged land (including erosion control and revegetation with indig- ■ Although some snakes are dangerous, they are an important part of the plants and replant enous species). ecosystem. If you see a snake, don’t kill it – stand clear or walk round it. indigenous Developing sustainable tourism is one of the ways in which the people of the ■ species? Flowers are important in the ecosystem. Admire their beauty, but never pick region can derive livelihoods, with limited impact on the environment. them – they may be rare, endangered or endemic. Picking a fl ower could ■ initiate erosion contribute to its extinction as the plant will fail to reseed itself. control measures? the maloti route – partnerships across borders ■ When hiking, remember that others will use the same route as you. So when All these help to re- using the toilet, dig a small hole – well off the path and far from streams – and establish the health The Maloti Route is an exciting example of collaboration to grow tourism across an inter- cover it well afterwards. Avoid using sandstone shelters, as these have become national, and national boundaries. It is an initiative bringing together tourism operators and vigour of natural badly polluted in this way. in South Africa and Lesotho to increase benefi ts to the people of the region. The systems and their route was launched by the Ministers of the Environment for the two countries biodiversity. ■ The rock art is of global importance, irreplaceable and easily damaged. Help to and has grown from strength to strength. The Maloti Route will be extended preserve it by not touching, tracing, wetting or interfering with it in any way. to become the Maloti Drakensberg Route, which will include Lesotho and its neighbouring South African provinces.

12 the maloti drakensberg experience introduction and maps 13 This popular region is easily accessible. It is a great base from which to explore the Maloti Mountains. The region has many craft stores and boasts the highest road pass in southern Africa. There are many sites where dinosaur footprints can be seen.

northern lesotho and eastern free state

getting around the region From Harrismith en route to Lesotho, the picturesque R712 takes you past Sterk- protected fontein Dam and the Basotho Cultural Village. The road goes through the scenic areas QwaQwa and Golden Gate Highlands National Parks to the charming village of ■ Golden Gate and Clarens, with its arts and crafts and many places to eat and stay. From here you QwaQwa Highlands can follow the R711 to Fouriesburg. Enter Lesotho at Caledonspoort gate, and National Park +27 (0)58 255 0012 drive on to Botha Bothe. South African From Botha Bothe one option is to head east along the A1 towards the New National Parks central reservations: Oxbow Lodge, a popular destination offering skiing when there is snow and fl y- +27 (0)12 428 9111 fi shing in the summer. Move on to Mokhotlong in the Eastern Highlands and then ■ Sterkfontein Dam to the beautiful views from the top of Sani Pass, leading into South Africa. This Nature Reserve +27 (0)58 622 3520 spectacular route is the original “Roof of Africa” rally route, taking you through Free State Department rugged mountain passes, with much of the trip at very high altitude (above of Tourism, Environment 3 000 m). and Economic Affairs central information: Alternatively, head west from Botha Bothe along the A1 through Hlotse +27 (0)51 404 9638 (Leribe), Peka, Teya-Teyaneng and on to Maseru. This route is of particular interest ■ Ts’ehlanyane to craft-lovers, with the Leribe Craft Centre at Hlotse and many interesting craft National Park +266 22 444 207 shops in Teya-Teyaneng. You can also travel south on the B27 outside Botha Lesotho Northern Parks Bothe to Ts’ehlanyane National Park, where you can walk, look for birds and central bookings: +266 22 460 723 enjoy the high-altitude fl ora. ■ Bokong Nature Katse Dam, offering unforgettable tours of the dam wall, is also accessed from Reserve this route. Take the B25 southwards from Hlotse. You will pass Bokong Nature +266 22 460 813 Lesotho Northern Parks Reserve on the way. central bookings: +266 22 460 723

14 the maloti drakensberg experience introduction and maps 15 This region abounds with natural and scenic splendour. It is characterized by steep gorges and spectacular waterfalls. It boasts the highest mountains and longest waterfall in southern Africa.

lesotho eastern highlands and kwazulu-natal

getting around the region The key route leading into the southern Drakensberg is the scenic R617 to Under- protected berg, from which you can reach areas like Bushman’s Neck, Garden Castle, areas Drakensberg Gardens and Cobham. If you have a rough-road vehicle you can also ■ The uKhahlamba travel from Himeville up the spectacular Sani Pass to the Lesotho Highlands. The Drakensberg Park route from the top of Sani Pass to Mokhotlong passes Thabana Ntlenyana, the World Heritage Site, including Royal highest peak in southern Africa (3 482 m). Natal National Park From Underberg you can continue on the R617 through Swartberg to the ■ Coleford Nature historic town of Kokstad, then on to Matatiele and into Lesotho at Qacha’s Neck. Reserve From there you can reach Sehlabathebe National Park. ■ Spioenkop Dam Nature Reserve To reach Giant’s Castle take the Mooi River turn-off from the N3, go into Mooi ■ Ntsikeni Vlei Nature River, and follow the Giant’s Castle signs to the reserve. To access the dramatic Reserve central and northern Drakensberg you can take the R74 to Winterton. Follow the ■ Mount Currie Nature R600 from there, and look out for the clear signposts to Cathedral Peak, Cham- Reserve Ezemvelo Wildlife central pagne Castle, Monk’s Cowl and Cathkin. reservations: To reach the northern Drakensberg, continue through Winterton along the R74 +27 (0)33 845 1000 ■ Sehlabathebe to Bergville. Approximately 30 km beyond Bergville you can follow the signs to National Park the unforgettable Royal Natal National Park, with its magnifi cent rocky gorges, National Environmental deep rock pools, and exciting hiking trails. Secretariat of Lesotho: +266 22 311 767 If you are driving along the N3 from the north, the best way to access the northern and central Drakensberg is to take the N5 from Harrismith toward the Free State. Turn left onto the R712, and left again onto the R74 which will take you past Sterkfontein Dam and down the scenic Oliviershoek Pass towards Bergville and Winterton.

16 the maloti drakensberg experience introduction and maps 17 This region offers road trips from Maseru (the capital of Lesotho) through beautiful scenic landscapes with mountain passes, deep valleys and gently undulating hills.

west and central lesotho

getting around the region From Ladybrand in South Africa enter Lesotho at Maseru Bridge. From Maseru protected you can drive to Roma by taking the A2 to Mazenod, the A3 to Mokema, and the areas A5 to Roma. From here you can continue to Ramabanta, and on via a spectacular mountain route to Semonkong – boasting the Maletsunyane Falls, the second ■ Malekgonyane highest in southern Africa. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the historically (Ongeluksnek) Nature Reserve signifi cant Thaba Bosiu mountain fortress, birthplace of the Basotho nation, not Eastern Cape Parks Board far from Maseru. central information: +27 (0)43 742 4450 Alternatively, drive along the A3 to Likalaneng, next to the Mohale Dam, and on to Thaba Tseka via the breathtaking Molimo Nthuse Pass. This route takes you past the Basotho Pony Trekking Centre. From Thaba Tseka you could continue east on the A3 through the Senqu valley to Mokhotlong, and then to Sani Pass on the A1, or you could travel north on the A8 to Katse Dam, then on to Hlotse and Ficksburg. With a rough-road vehicle you could drive the rugged and picturesque route to Sehlabathebe via Sehonghong by following the A3 to Taung, the A4 to Matebeng, and the B34 to Sehlabathebe. The A2 from Maseru heads south to the historical Morija village, and on to Motsekuoa. From here one option is to head south-east on the B25 towards Malealea, with its stunning gorge, rock pools, hiking and pony trails and rock art. Alternatively, stay on the A2 south towards Mafeteng, through the scenic corridor of Mohale’s Hoek, and on to the historically fascinating southern route which passes through the Quthing region, past Moorosi, and on to Qacha’s Neck. Another route from Maseru heads north on the A1 towards Botha Bothe. This route is known for its exciting craft shops, particularly at Teya-Teyaneng and Hlotse.

18 the maloti drakensberg experience introduction and maps 19 This region is fascinating not only for its historical and prehistoric relics, with numerous rock art and fossil sites, but also for its scenic drives through beautiful green valleys with crystal clear streams and crisp, clean air. The region is known for its wildwater fl y-fi shing, and is an excellent spot for fl owers in the right season.

southern lesotho and north-eastern cape

getting around the region From Maclear you can take a scenic round trip, starting on the R56 through the protected quiet, picturesque towns of Ugie and Elliot, then along the R58 to Barkly East, areas and fi nally the R396 which will take you through the quaint hamlet of Rhodes, ■ Malekgonyane and back to Maclear via the stunning Naude’s Nek Mountain Pass. This route (Ongeluksnek) offers various rock art sites, dinosaur footprints, and some of the country’s best Nature Reserve fl y-fi shing streams. You can also drive north from Rhodes to the Tiffi ndell ski Eastern Cape Parks Board central information: resort for exciting winter sport options. +27 (0)43 742 4450 Another option from Maclear is to follow the R56 north-east to Mount Fletcher, and on to Matatiele. From here you can enter Lesotho at Qacha’s Neck and head west along the A4 through Moorosi, with its historical San paintings and the mountain fortress of Chief Moorosi, dating back to 1879. From here the A4 route takes you through some of the most remote and unspoilt terrain in Lesotho, and on to Moyeni (Quthing). This region contains many historical and prehistoric remains, including San rock art and dinosaur tracks. Another option from Qacha’s Neck is to travel east along the B45 to the rugged and beautiful Sehlabathebe National Park. From Aliwal North you could follow the R58 to Lady Grey, and drive along the R392 via the scenic rural town of Sterkspruit to the Lesotho border post at Tele Bridge. From here you could follow the northern A2 route to Maseru through Mohale’s Hoek and Mafeteng, or the eastern A4 route to Moyeni, Moorosi and Qacha’s Neck.

20 the maloti drakensberg experience introduction and maps 21 chapter 1 people of the mountains

he dramatic landscape of the Maloti Drakensberg art galleries created, of people worshipping, of people in hiding, Mountains has witnessed exciting, sometimes tragic and of people fleeing and people returning – following secret paths sometimes romantic, stories of peoples through the ages to sacred places. The people and their interwoven histories have – stories of the earliest humans (Homo erectus), of wars created a complex tapestry. Become immersed in layer upon layer t lost and won, of nations built and broken, of outdoor of their interlinked experiences as you visit these sites today.

22 23 left The Morija Museum and Archives is an excellent source of information on Lesotho and Basotho culture. photo: ds middle The Basotho Cultural Village gives visitors a glimpse into the daily lives of traditional Sotho people, both past and present. photo: sp far left The grave of Moshoeshoe I on the fl at- topped Thaba Bosiu. Chiefs and important leaders of the Basotho nation are also buried here. photo: ds

Harrismith Clarens FREE STATE Bergville Botha Bothe key attractions people Ficksburg

Maseru Katse Mokhotlong 1 morija village (western 2 in the footsteps of 3 the basotho cultural village lesotho) moshoeshoe (northern (free state) Sani Pass This is Lesotho’s earliest mission founded in lesotho) Take a stroll through the history of the South LESOTHO Underberg 1833, when Moshoeshoe invited French missionaries A tour of Botha Bothe and Thaba Bosiu brings Sotho people from the sixteenth century to the present to educate his people. Morija has the oldest house to life the history of the Basotho people. Moshoeshoe (many similar cultural villages portray only a fi xed Qacha’s Nek Smithfield and printing works in the country, and a church built was born around 1786 near Botha Bothe where he built historical period). Their lifestyle, design and architecture KWAZULU- in the 1850s. The Museum has displays on Basotho are accurately displayed. The village offers a cultural Ongeluksnek his fi rst mountain fortress. He later moved to Thaba Quthing NATAL culture, the country’s history, Stone and Iron Age relics Bosiu from where he founded the Basotho Nation. experience for all the senses; taste traditionally-brewed Kokstad and dinosaur fossils. Highlights include a San Bushman The mountain is of special signifi cance to the Basotho beer and other food items, gaze at the colourful outfi ts Aliwal North girdle of eggshell beads, called “moletsa”, and people and is the burial site of Moshoeshoe, Kings and and décor, listen to the sounds of the rangoon and lesiba, specimens of San rock art. Dinosaur footprints can be and enjoy a game of morabaraba. The village includes EASTERN CAPE principal Chiefs of Lesotho. The Thaba Bosiu Information seen on a short but steep guided walk. The annual Arts Offi ce offers short tours to the ruins and courtyard of an art gallery and craft centre. Traditional Basotho meals & Cultural festival is held at the end of September. are served in the sandstone amphitheatre. Self-catering Elliot Moshoeshoe’s Citadel, the gravesite and natural springs. Getting there: Travel on the A2 from Maseru Enjoy the beautiful view of the Basotho hat-shaped accommodation and campsites are available at Golden For more detailed information see the full 45 km south or from Mafeteng 35 km north. The Qilaone Mountain. A similar tour at Botha Bothe is being Gate Highlands National Park. size regional maps on pages 14-21 exit to Morija is marked. At the post offi ce turn right developed. Getting there: From N3 at Harrismith turn off on the R712 and follow the signs past the historic church to the Getting there: From Maseru follow the B21 to Thaba to Phuthaditjhaba. Follow signs to Clarens/Golden Gate museum. Bosiu. Highlands National Park, turn off to the Basotho Cultural Contact: Village before Golden Gate. +266 22 360 308, www.morijafest.com Contact: +266 22 357 207, www.seelesotho.com Notes: Walking shoes are required for the fossil hike. Contact: Basotho Cultural Village: +27 (0)58 721 0300; Notes: Book the tour a few days ahead and wear walking Golden Gate Highlands National Park: shoes. +27 (0)58 255 1000, www.sanparks.org previous Women gather at Morijafest. The Basotho blanket is worn with pride. photo: br continued overleaf

24 the maloti drakensberg experience people of the mountains 25 right A traditional home at the amaNgwane/ Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre. far right The cave house at Masitise Mission, built in 1866. Dinosaur footprints can be seen on the roof of the cave house. photo: ds

key attractions people

4 amangwane/mnweni 5 kokstad town and museum 6 fort nottingham (kwazulu- 7 mission stations in south cultural and hiking centre (kwazulu-natal) natal) africa and lesotho Established as a sustainable community-based Kokstad is named after Adam Kok III, who was a leader In response to the raids on Voortrekker and later The missionary stations of the 1800s played a eco-tourism venture, the Centre celebrates the culture of the Griqua people. He was originally based in British farms by the Drakensberg Bushmen, the colonial signifi cant role in the history of the region. Many are of the amaNgwane people. Set in a beautiful and Transorangia (Griqualand West). After land disputes British government set up a military outpost and village still functioning, and offer insight into this fascinating remote part of the Drakensberg, it provides an authentic with the Boer Republic of the Orange Free State and at Fort Nottingham. The garrison was not very successful, period. Among the stations to be visited are Centocow, experience of local food and accommodation, as well as the British colonial government, Kok and his followers and was soon withdrawn. The fort has since been made Reichenau, and Mariazell missions, all founded as cultural activities such as a consultation with a sangoma, decided to trek over the Drakensberg in 1861, and into a museum which not only recounts this period of satellite missions of the Roman Catholic Marianhill traditional dancing and a visit to local homesteads. You founded Griqualand East and its capital, Kokstad. The history, but also richly captures the social dynamic of the Monastery. Hermannsburg and the Emmaus missions will see the unique art of Zulu beer-making, basket- Kokstad Museum takes you through the history of the region at the time. were founded by German Lutherans. weaving, beadwork, wood-carving and other traditional Griqua people. The Museum, Griqua Church and old Town Getting there: From the N3 take the R103 to Nottingham The Masitise Cave House Museum and mission has crafts. Trained guides from the local community, familiar Hall in Main Street are national monuments. Other points Rd. Pass under the rail bridge and follow signs to Fort recently been restored and is well worth a visit. Built with the fauna and fl ora of the region, can guide you on of interest in Kokstad include the Cathedral, with its tall Nottingham and the museum. in 1866 by the mission founder, DF Ellenberger, it now a hike to the escarpment. Self-catering accommodation twin steeples, Adam Kok’s Memorial commemorating provides insight into local culture, Basotho history and Contact: +27 (0)33 266 6482, and camping is available. his leadership, and Adam Kok’s Laager monument in the Lesotho’s prehistory. www.fortnottingham.netfi rms.com Getting there: From the N3 take the Bergville off-ramp Mount Currie Nature Reserve. Getting there: Reichenau (near Underberg) and Centocow onto the R74. At Bergville take the fi rst turn-off to the Getting there: The Museum is found at 104 Main Street, (near Creighton) are signposted from the R617. Mariazell left. From this road follow the signs to amaNgwane Kokstad. is near Matatiele. Emmaus is near Cathedral Peak. The Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre. Contact: +27 (0)39 797 6610 Masitise Cave House Museum is 8 km from Quthing on Contact: Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre: the Mohale’s Hoek Road. +27 (0)72 712 2401; Bergwatch: +27 (0)33 394 4064 Contact: Reichenau: +27 (0)33 701 1735; Centocow: www.mnwenicc.co.za +27 (0)39 833 0033; Masitise: +266 58 794 167

for more attractions consult the directory at the back of the book

photo: sp

26 the maloti drakensberg experience people of the mountains 27 he dramatic landscape of the Maloti and Drakensberg Mountains is matched by the drama of its people’s history. The story of the mountain people is a t story of the making and breaking of nations. Those who live here now are the descendants of those who, through interwoven circumstances and events, came to this region over the centuries and have made it their home.

the basotho When you enter the Kingdom of Lesotho, you become aware of men on horse- back, adorned with beautiful woven blankets and wearing woven grass hats. These are people of the welcoming Basotho Nation, a nation born out of extreme hardship and war and brought together by a young visionary named Moshoe- shoe. During the early 1800s, with the rise of Shaka, King of the Zulu, and the impact of encroaching colonial rule, central southern Africa was thrown into a state of turmoil and bloodshed, sometimes known as the Lifi qane or Mfecane. Previously peaceful communities living quiet pastoral lives in the region were forced into brutal warfare over scarce resources. The land and all the creatures on it were decimated. Many of the Nguni-speaking and Sotho-speaking peoples A testimony to Moshoeshoe’s stature as a great peacemaker was his treatment above Young Basotho sought refuge in the rugged and harsh Maloti Drakensberg Mountains. of the cannibals whom he captured and, instead of putting to death, assured of dancers performing at It was during this time that Moshoeshoe strategically gathered the various his forgiveness. These people later became extremely loyal subjects of Moshoe- Morijafest. photo: br splinter groups of Sotho-speaking people together on a steep slope of the Maloti shoe. Mountains called Botha Bothe, and later on a fl at mountaintop called Thaba Moshoeshoe’s strategizing also resulted in the British annexing Lesotho in Bosiu. This provided a natural fortress for these peoples to defend themselves, 1869, ending a three-year siege by the Boers. Lesotho fi nally regained independ- and to grow into a consolidated nation known as the Basotho. Visiting Thaba ence from the British in 1966 and is now under the leadership of King Letsie lll. Bosiu can be a moving experience as you recall or hear about the courageous below The inhabitants of Many Basotho still live as subsistence agriculturalists keeping livestock birth of this nation. Ha Kome caves welcome including cattle, sheep and goats. An industry of fi ne weaving contributes signifi - visitors. The region was It was also in this time of turmoil that scattered groups, who had survived cantly to the local economy. once notorious for its Shaka’s military exploits, turned to banditry and cannibalism as a means of cannibals. photo: ds survival. Moshoeshoe’s own grandfather Peete fell prey to the cannibals. The Basotho blanket, as it has become known, has rich traditional signifi cance, each motif having a very specifi c meaning and status. Starting with the early contacts between European missionaries, traders and Basotho people, the blanket gradually replaced the traditional animal skin garment, the kaross. With the rise in status of the blanket, so too the quality, colours and motifs improved. The British companies producing these blankets rose to the market demand, and produced more varied and beautiful blankets specifi cally for the Basotho. Different blankets are worn by different groupings and for different purposes. But almost always, the blanket is worn with dignity. It has a high photo: br wool content, and is suitable for the harsh weather conditions of Lesotho. It sheds rainwater, and keeps the wearer dry and warm in the cold.

The Basotho hat or Mokorotlo with its distinctive cone shape, woven out of grasses, is a national symbol for the Basotho nation. It is said to represent the shape of the Qiloane Mountain near Thaba Bosiu. This hat has become the most familiar souvenir sold to tourists visiting Lesotho. photo: br

28 the maloti drakensberg experience people of the mountains 29 the signifi cance of cattle for the nguni people

Cattle are central to the identity, culture, language and rituals of the Nguni people. Traditional homesteads are set up around a cattle byre. The number of cattle one owns is a measure of one’s wealth. In marriage rituals, cattle are the currency for “lobolo”, a dowry in Zulu tradi- tion. Cattle are usually sacrifi ced for important ancestral rituals – not slaughtered simply for food. However, cattle do provide a regular food source: amasi or soured milk. Cattle skins are signifi cant in tribal dress for traditional occasions. Warriors carried shields which were made of the tough hides of cattle. guy stubbs/independent contributors/africanpictures.net

Other Nguni-speaking peoples in the region are the ama- Ngwane – living in the Mnweni area – and the amaZizi – living in the area adjacent to the Royal Natal National Park above amaNgwane the nguni-speaking peoples of the – and expressing their culture in the most beautiful beading women and men mountains and weaving. The amaZizi were the fi rst pastoralists to adorn themselves with settle in this region before Shaka’s reign. Together with the This region holds a rich cultural tapestry of Nguni-speaking peoples. Exquisite traditional items of Baphuti – a clan that formed when the amaZizi intermarried clothing to mark special beadwork, grass-weaving and thatched homesteads welcome the traveller to the with the Sotho of the Eastern Free State – they were the occasions. photo: frank jolles Drakensberg Mountains. last protectors of the San in this region. Many of these communities have lived here since before Shaka’s time. Others The Baphuti are famous for their chief, Moorosi. In 1879 came as refugees of the time of turmoil and, although some speak isiZulu, were he led the Baphuti, aided by the San, in fi ghting off the never formally part of Shaka’s Zulu state. Yet others were settled here by Lord British army for eight months from a spectacular summit Shepstone, “Native Administrator” of Natal, in the borderlands between Natal and now named Mount Moorosi in southern Lesotho. the mountains, as a “buffer community” to shield the white farmers from the San In the Mount Frere region and around Bulwer live the and their cattle raids. descendants of the amaBhaca, meaning “those who hide” (from the Zulu). Their language, isiBhaca, is one of the unof- fi cial South African languages that could become extinct Famous in this region is the courageous and defi ant chief of the amaHlubi clan, above One of many portraits painted by Langalibalele. The amaHlubi were the biggest Nguni clan before Shaka’s time – an inde- in the next 50 years. The amaNtlangwini, neighbours of internationally-acclaimed artist Gerard Bhengu. pendent chiefdom with a Paramount Chief. They suffered severely during the time of the amaBhaca, were crucial to the ivory trade. They acted source: tatham art gallery, pietermaritzburg turmoil, enabling Shepstone later to settle them in the Giant’s Castle area. as brokers between the San, who hunted the elephant, In 1873 the British ordered the amaHlubi to register guns they had acquired at the and the British who bought the ivory. The internationally- diamond diggings. After resisting this order, and fl eeing to Lesotho, Chief Langalibalele was acclaimed artist, Gerard Bhengu, hails from the amaBhaca In 2006 South Africa named a new subma- captured and tried for treason. During the hunt for Langalibalele many amaHlubi villages and was born at Centocow Mission near Bulwer. rine the “SAS Manthatisi” after the fearsome were razed to the ground, and many women and children killed or captured for slave labour. Further south are the Mpondomise, also known as the Batlokwa “Warrior Queen”, leader of a commu- nity of 25 000 in the early 1800s known as Langalibalele was found guilty by Sir Benjamin Pine and sentenced to life imprisonment on Robben Island. “red blanket people”. (The traditional blankets of these the “Wild Cat People”. Manthatisi, it is said, However, protests in England exposed the trial as a travesty of justice. Queen Victoria overturned the sentence people are actually coloured using ochre.) They too had a headed northwards from the Drakens berg and the Chief was set free. Pine was recalled to England, with Shepstone unscathed by the scandal. The British very close relationship with the San of this region, often region with her followers, raiding and looting had, however, succeeded in severely damaging the strength and wealth of the amaHlubi. Their descendants employing them as rainmakers and ritual experts. all the way as far as present-day Botswana, still live in the Giant’s Castle area, and are set apart from other Nguni peoples in that sheep are ritually impor- before eventually returning to settle near tant to them. photo source: campbell collections of the university of kwazulu-natal present-day Ficksburg.

30 the maloti drakensberg experience people of the mountains 31 the missionaries left Mrs deBeer, of the Griqua National Church in Kokstad. Beautiful abbeys and churches built in European architectural style are photo: sp located at various places in the region. Missionaries from different European far left (top to bottom) Christian traditions settled in the area in the1800s, and became extremely St Andrews at Reichenau Mission; infl uential in the lives of the inhabitants. The sanctuary of St Andrews, The French Protestant missionaries established their mission at Morija Reichenau photos: sp; Centocow Mission; Our Lady of in Lesotho in 1833, and became highly-valued strategic advisors and close Czestochowa confi dants of Moshoeshoe. The high levels of literacy found in Lesotho are source: centocow mission often attributed to these missionaries. The Morija Museum houses this rich history and is well worth a visit. The Roman Catholic missions at Centecow, Mariazell, and Reichenau were set up as satellite missions of Marianhill by Trappist monks, a contem- plative religious order where work and prayer are carried out mostly in silence. Trappists follow the Rule of St. Benedict, living “by the work of their own hands.” These monasteries, set up in the 1800s, were self-suffi cient, producing and selling goods such as cheese and bread. German Lutheran missionaries began work in KwaZulu-Natal in 1841, setting up Emmaus Mission in 1847 and opening the way for the Hermanns- burg Mission to be established in KZN. Many of the mission churches still operate today, as do associated schools and hospitals. They are now run largely by local priests and religious communities. All are worth visiting, to be surrounded by their beautiful the griqua architecture and fascinating histories. preserving our The Griqua are a people with a rich multi-cultural heritage rooted in the heritage Khoi, European missionary, Boer and San communities, amongst others, of the Cape Colony of the 1700s. As the white settlers’ power increased in the british All places of habitation and that area, so this multi-racial community became increasingly victimized. material artefacts more than The British involvement in this area is interwoven with these histories. Most Dispossessed of their land and dignity, they often resorted to banditry and 60 years old are protected signifi cant is the major role played by the British in the annexure of Lesotho raiding. under the South African at the request of Moshoeshoe and in the establishment of the border In 1861, under the leadership of Adam Kok III, the Griqua community National Heritage Resources communities, placed by Shepstone to stop the San from raiding cattle from trekked over the Maloti Drakensberg Mountains, suffering many tragedies Act. Many sites still remain the new British farms in the Natal midlands. and deaths along the way. They passed through Ongeluksnek, a treach- undocumented. Included The cattle raids, Giant’s Castle being the entry point, had become so erous descent, often having to dismantle their wagons to negotiate the in these are many of the severe that in 1856 the British sent the 1st Sherwood Foresters, the 45th diffi cult terrain. (There is now a nature reserve at Ongeluksnek Pass, and so-called “living heritage” foot regiment from Nottingham in England, to establish Fort Nottingham. the place where Adam Kok carved his name into the rock is still visible sites – sacred pools, moun- tains and rock art sites still But the raids continued – partly, it seems, because the garrison was small today.) Adam Kok III then founded Kokstad and established a government used by people of the region. and on unfamiliar terrain, and partly because much alcohol was brewed and to rule over Griqualand East. However, the Griqua continued to suffer Many of the known sites, and consumed on site. The garrison was withdrawn and the fort sold to a private extreme hardship in the severe climate, and after many of them had sold especially the rock art sites, family, the Cloustons, in 1875. The fort is now a museum which recounts their land to the settlers, the British succeeded in annexing the region in are under threat of damage this story. 1874. And so, once again, the Griqua lost their prime land. Many returned by visitors. Heritage sites The ongoing involvement in Natal by the British was not unrelated to the to the Cape. However, there is still a small community living in the area. must not be disturbed in thriving trade in ivory that involved the San and many Nguni communities any way and undocumented – and decimated the elephants of this area. sites should be reported to Descendants of both the British and the Voortrekkers are still living in heritage agencies. this region today.

32 the maloti drakensberg experience people of the mountains 33 photo: ds

what has become of the san living heritage sites kerrick ntusi communities? To this day various groupings make regular pilgrimages to their signifi cant places: – drakensberg The history of the San people (also known as the Bushmen) is both inspir- Centecow Mission: Devotees gather to pray at the “Black Madonna” of this above An exciting weaving bushman ingly beautiful and tragically sad. A treasure of the mountains is the San Roman Catholic mission near Underberg. industry gives expression Tekwaan’s Hill, Cobham: Thousands of scarlet-clad women and men of the to the traditional lifestyle “First these mountains rock art, created by the San communities who have lived in this area for Mabidia sect gather each year on this hill where the founding member had a vision practised by many belonged to the Bushmen, over 20 000 years, and were still painting until as recently as the begin- from God in 1910. Basotho. photo: tjarda murray then came the black people, ning of the 20th century. (Refer to the Rock art chapter of this book for far left Kerrick Ntusi is Kerkenberg: At this mountain, also called Retiefklip, close to Sterkfontein Dam, followed by the white people. more about the history of the San.) The rock art also tells of the rising thought to be the last Everybody fought against the turmoil in the region during these years, when King Shaka was consoli- the Voortrekkers held a church service before descending the escarpment into Drakensberg Bushman Bushmen, then they turned dating his power base, followed soon after by the arrival of Europeans. Natal. Piet Retief’s daughter painted her father’s initials on a rock here. This place who has living memory around and fought against These events ultimately resulted in the demise of the Drakensberg San has special signifi cance for the Afrikaner people. of rock art being created. photo: fp each other. In the time of my as a cultural grouping – having been killed or driven out by the various Mantsopa’s Grave: Mantsopa, a prophetess and advisor to Moshoeshoe, is

grandfather these mountains invading communities. buried near Ladybrand. Her grave, with the surrounding missionary sites and rock used to be happy and full of Some of the San descendants of this region, sometimes referred to as art, is considered a site of international importance. game; one can still hear the the “Secret San”, have been absorbed into other cultural communities and Game Pass Shelter: The Duma clan, descendents of the Drakensberg San, songs and laughter of the old are still living in the area today. gather at this shelter each year to interact with their ancestors. ones at some of the caves, Botha Bothe: Members of the Sotho royal lineage frequent the royal graveyard but even these voices are on this mountain, which is signifi cant in the history of the formation of the Basotho fading now. the voortrekkers nation. We need to reinstate the The Voortrekkers, or Dutch settlers, arrived in the region in search of new colour and power at these farming land where they would not be answerable to the British powers. places; we need to go back They established farms and homesteads and later fought battles with the where we come from. Only further information and resources British in an attempt to retain their independence. then will the war be over and At Retief’s Pass, visible from Oliviershoek Pass, grooves in the rock show ■ The Natal Museum, Pietermaritzburg, +27 (0)33 345 1404, www.nmsa.org.za the old ones will be happy where ox wagons were pulled over the mountain as the Voortrekkers again.” ■ Morija Museum and Archives, +266 22 360 308, www.morijafest.com descended into present-day KwaZulu-Natal. Soon after arriving they were ■ Alan Paton Centre, University of KwaZulu-Natal, +27 (0)33 260 5926 attacked by the Zulu King Dingane. The graves of some of those who died can be seen at Bloukrans, near Ladysmith. ■ South African History Online, www.sahistory.org.za

34 the maloti drakensberg experience people of the mountains 35 chapter 2 hiking and walking

rom short rambles to overnight hikes, from leisurely towering peaks, deep valleys and clear streams; in strolling along valley walks to strenuous high-altitude treks – peaceful grassy slopes, exploring narrow gorges and swimming in the allure of hiking in the Maloti Drakensberg enticing mountain pools; in the desire to escape the noise of everyday f Mountains lies in the soul-building scenery of life and to be immersed in a world of awe-inspiring natural beauty.

36 37 left Machokeng overnight hut on the Mehloding Adventure Trail. far left Looking south from the escarpment at Cathkin Peak, KwaZulu-Natal stretches out before you.

Harrismith Clarens FREE STATE  Bergville Botha Bothe key attractions hiking & walking Ficksburg   Maseru Katse Mokhotlong Contact: Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife +27 (0)33 845 1000, 3 mehloding adventure trail  www.kznwildlife.co.za (southern drakensberg and Sani Pass Notes: Book this popular trail in advance. Minimum three LESOTHO  people per group. eastern lesotho) Underberg    On this community-owned trail you can experience Qacha’s Nek the lesser-known far south of the Drakensberg Smithfield 2 semonkong and malealea KWAZULU- Mountains. Mehloding offers tailor-made guided hikes Ongeluksnek Quthing NATAL (western lesotho) that can take up to four days and fi ve nights. The route meanders through the foothills of the Drakensberg  This remote area of Lesotho is well-known for Kokstad from the Ongeluksnek region to Qacha’s Nek region. On Aliwal North photo: sp its spectacular waterfalls and high mountain passes. the way you pass through rural villages. Expect to see A three-day guided hike between Semonkong and ancient rock art, sparkling streams, indigenous trees, EASTERN CAPE 1 giant’s cup trail (southern Malealea takes you to the Ketane, Ribaneng and and medicinal plants. The walking is not strenuous, and Maletsunyane Falls. Malealea Lodge also offers a four- to drakensberg, kwazulu- accommodation is in chalets with catering provided. Elliot fi ve-day guided hike to Moorosi Chalets, and several day natal) Masakala Guesthouse (near Mariazell Mission in the hikes. Semonkong Lodge has tailor-made hikes and a For more detailed information see the full Ongeluksnek region) is the fi rst overnight on the trail and The Giant’s Cup Trail winds its way over the four- to fi ve-day guided hike from Semonkong to Christ size regional maps on pages 14-21 is a comfortable base for any visitor to the area. foothills of the Drakensberg from the famous Sani the King Mission, crossing the Senqunyane and Senqu Pass to Bushman’s Nek, offering fi ve days of splendid Rivers. Getting there: From Qacha’s Nek follow the road to Matatiele, situated on the R56 to Kokstad. mountain views, refreshing pools and rock art. You Getting there: From the Maseru-Mafeteng road, take cover an average of 12 km per day on moderate the turn-off to Roma and continue beyond Roma for Contact: Mehloding Community Trust: terrain, allowing reasonably fi t adults and children to another 18 km. At the T-junction turn off to Semonkong +27 (0)39 737 3289, www.mehloding.co.za complete each day with relative ease. The trail is well- via Ramabanta. From Maseru, follow the A2, turn left at Notes: Book ahead to arrange safe parking in Matatiele and marked and backpacker’s accommodation is provided Motsekua onto the B25 and follow the signs to Malealea. a transfer to the start of the trail. previous Camping on the Inner Horn. “The Bell”, Getting there: From the N3 take the R617 to Underberg Contact: Semonkong: +266 27 006 037, Cathedral Peak and the Outer Horn can be seen behind via Himeville to Sani Pass. The starting point is past the www.placeofsmoke.co.ls; Malealea: +27 (0)51 436 6766, the campers. Sani Pass Hotel, signposted on the left. www.malealea.com continued overleaf

38 the maloti drakensberg experience hiking and walking 39 right Hikes at Sehlabathebe National Park in Lesotho take you past dramatic sandstone formations and stone huts built into overhangs by shepherds. middle Hikers enjoy views of Cathedral Peak in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park. photo: ew far right The chain ladders accessible from Sentinel Car Park take hikers onto the escarpment and into the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, with breathtaking views into KwaZulu-Natal. photo: sp

key attractions hiking & walking

4 ukhahlamba drakensberg 5 the sentinel and 6 mnweni cultural centre 7 ts’ehlanyane to bokong park hiking trails amphitheatre (qwaqwa, (northern drakensberg, Ts’ehlanyane National Park comprises more than The uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park is a World eastern free state) kwazulu-natal) 5 600 ha of protected rugged mountain terrain. This park Heritage Site which encompasses the grandeur of the is tranquil and beautiful, with abundant high altitude For the visitor without much time to spare, this The rugged and intensely beautiful Mnweni Amphitheatre in the north, Cathedral Peak and Giant’s fl ora and a fantastic range of birdlife. There are a number moderate fi ve-hour return hike from the Sentinel Car area, on community land between the Amphitheatre Castle in the centre, and the legendary Sani Pass and of walks and trails of varying diffi culties in the park itself. Park to the top of the Amphitheatre (in the uKhahlamba and Cathedral Peak, falls outside the boundary of the Rhino Peak in the south. The uKhahlamba Drakensberg These are either self-guided or with a local guide. One of Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site) is a truly uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site. Park offers vast areas of magnifi cent mountain territory the most beautiful walks is a four hour mountain trail to exhilarating experience. You can stand high on the This area has now been made more accessible by the on well-maintained paths. This network of trails, for Matsa-mararo waterfall and pools. soaring heights of the Drakensberg and look out over creation of the Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre, a which a series of maps is available, makes the region an For those looking for a longer hike, there is a spectacular the countryside stretching into the distance far below. community project that offers secure parking, rustic self- internationally-known hiking destination. two to three day trail along the scenic alpine plateau An added bonus is to stand at the top of the Tugela Falls, catering accommodation and qualifi ed guides. There are between Ts’ehlanyane National Park and Bokong Nature Getting there: There are numerous access points the second-highest waterfall in the world! Once you’ve many hikes in this area, including the Rockeries, Mnweni Reserve. A number of walks are also available in the which are clearly marked on most tourist maps of the scaled the chain ladder and reached the summit, you Cutback, the Fangs, Ntonjelana River and Ifi di Pass. Hikes Bokong Nature Reserve. area. More specifi c information can be obtained from enter the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage in this area tend to be quite challenging. Getting there: ts’ehlanyane: From Botha Bothe the route Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s head offi ce or from the offi ces Site. This is also the place to start the very challenging Getting there: From the N3 take the Bergville off-ramp is well sign-posted, initially west along the A1, followed in the Park. Drakensberg Grand Traverse – a hike along the whole onto the R74. At Bergville take the fi rst turn-off to the by a left turn onto the Pela-Tsoeu road. Contact: Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife: +27 (0)33 845 1000, length of the Drakensberg escarpment from Mont-aux- left. From this road follow the signs to amaNgwane bokong: From Hlotse follow signs to Katse Dam for www.kznwildlife.co.za Sources in the north to Sehlabathebe in the south. Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre. 65 km. Notes: Always tell someone where you are going and fi ll in Getting there: From Harrismith, take the R712 to Contact: Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre: Contact: +266 22 460 813; www.lhwp.org.ls the mountain rescue register, even on a short hike. Phuthaditjhaba past Sterkfontein Dam. Follow the signs +27 (0)72 712 2401; Bergwatch: +27 (0)33 394 4064, through Phuthaditjhaba, and follow a brick paved road, www.mnwenicc.co.za keeping right to the Sentinel Car Park. Notes: Trails are not marked. Have a good map and hike Contact: Sentinel Car Park: +27 (0)58 713 5071 with a guide. for more attractions consult the Notes: The 30-m chain ladder is not diffi cult to climb, but directory at the back of the book not recommended for those afraid of heights.

40 the maloti drakensberg experience hiking and walking 41 essential his magnifi cent mountain wilderness is celebrated for its natural hiking gear beauty and diverse plant and animal life. It offers a great range of hikes, from the gentle to the extreme – day hikes, overnight hikes, ■ A strong, comfortable t backpack summit hikes, high-altitude traverses. Whether you come for the tranquillity ■ A good pair of hiking of the valleys or the challenge of the high escarpment, you will fi nd it here. boots The Drakensberg has an extensive network of well-maintained foot- paths. An exciting development in recent years is that of community-owned ■ Enough clothing for protection from rain, sun trails, which benefi t the local rural communities directly. Local guides, food and severe cold and accommodation are usually part of the package, as well as the opportu- nity to experience the culture of rural village life. ■ A warm sleeping bag In Lesotho the villages are connected by a criss-cross of paths, making ■ A sleeping mat it easy to get from one point to another with the aid of a good map. Keep ■ A sun-hat and sunglasses in mind that you will be hiking through rural farmland rather than a formally ■ A mountain tent protected area. You are likely to meet shepherds and local villagers. Be above Community land near Loteni, ■ A camping stove friendly and treat them with respect – remember that you are a visitor in what is the best time of year for hiking? in the KwaZulu-Natal Drakensberg. ■ Hiking can be enjoyed all year round. Choose times which suit your own Camping lights their land. You may also encounter dogs which are bred and trained to guard photo: sp ■ Eating utensils the sheep. Stay well clear of sheep to avoid provoking the dogs’ protective preferences and level of experience. instincts. The summer months (October to March) are generally warm to ■ A water bottle Tibetan-style trekking, where you carry a minimum of supplies and depend hot in the daytime. This is the rainy season, so expect humid conditions how to enjoy the ■ A fi rst aid kit on small villages along the way to buy food and accommodation, is an option and regular afternoon thunderstorms. The key to hiking at this time of year environment ■ Water purifi cation tablets for the more adventurous. When seeking accommodation in a village, speak is to start off as early as possible in the morning. Periods of continuous responsibly fi rst to the village chief and ask his permission. If you are unsure about tack- rain and mist, lasting several days at a time, can also occur in summer. ■ Stay on the paths to avoid below In the Drakensberg and ling such a hike, rather entrust yourself to the care of a good guide. Remember that the rain causes rivers to swell, making them diffi cult or damaging plants. Don’t pick on high ground in Lesotho the Remember that Lesotho is an independent country. All visitors, including dangerous to cross. Never camp in a stream bed – hikers have been swept any fl owers. water is clean and pure and South Africans, must have their passports with them with an entry stamp away by fl ash fl oods in the past. safe to drink. Purify water if it is ■ Use only portable stoves, to below the living areas of people from a designated entry point. The winter months (May to August) tend to be dry with warm, avoid fi res. sunny days, but the nights are extremely cold. Snow is likely at higher or their livestock. ■ Carry all litter out with you. altitudes. The winters in Lesotho are very harsh. ■ Don’t disfi gure, touch or No matter what the season, always be prepared for sudden weather pour water on rock paint- changes and sub-zero temperatures. The Maloti and Drakensberg ranges ings. have been known to get snow at any time of the year, including mid- ■ Don’t write or carve graffi ti summer! of any kind anywhere. ■ Leave all archaeological or a precious and vulnerable environment fossil material where you The Maloti and Drakensberg Mountains are home to a great wealth of fi nd it for others to discover. plants and animals adapted to survive in often harsh conditions – rocky, ■ Observe any wild animals with thin soil and extremes of temperature. If plants or animals are you fi nd, but don’t disturb harmed, or when conditions change because of our intervention, these them and never feed them. species become vulnerable to extinction. ■ Don’t harm or kill any The mountains contain wealth in other forms – cultural treasures left by animals, including snakes the people who have lived here; and ancient fossils and minerals which – this is their home, not unlock for us the mysteries of our origins. These assets belong to us all, to yours. enjoy but not destroy, to respect and protect, and to preserve for all who ■ Leave pets at home. will follow us in the days and generations that lie ahead.

42 the maloti drakensberg experience hiking and walking 43 right A traditional homestead near Cathedral Peak. Make contact with the local chief to visit or to arrange accommodation. photo: sp middle Hikers take a break for tea at the foot of Cathkin Peak in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site. Fires are not allowed, hence the portable cooker. photo: sp far right The view is spectacular from the top of Organ Pipes Pass in the Cathedral Peak region. uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site. photo: gg

how can I ensure the safety of myself ■ If caught in thick mist, stay where you are, if possible, until the mist clears, “If your feet are snakebite do’s and my group? while keeping as warm and dry as possible. Otherwise carefully follow a path cold, cover your ■ or stream downwards to try to fi nd help. Remain as calm as Remember that the wildness which draws us to the mountains also holds head.” ■ possible. many hazards. If trapped by snow, get out of the wind and keep as warm and dry as possible. To attract the attention of an air search, mark your position with as - Hikers’ saying, ■ Reduce blood ■ When planning a hike, select routes and set a pace according to the abili- much brightly-coloured material (backpacks, etc.) as possible. based on the fact that fl ow by applying a ties of the weakest or youngest members of your group. Always keep the ■ most body heat is pressure bandage and group together. If overtaken by a fast-moving wildfi re, get into a grove of live trees if possible. In open country, burn a fi re-break around you. As a last resort, face lost from the head. immobilizing the limb. ■ Inform family or friends of your exact route and your planned starting the speeding fi re and try to run through it. ■ Get professional and return times. Complete the Mountain Rescue Register at your starting medical help as quickly point. Stick to your planned route. Have a good map of the area and know as possible. how to read it. further information and resources ■ Never hike alone – preferably remain in groups of at least three. where to get good maps ■ Make sure you are properly equipped for all weather conditions, even if snakebite ■ kzn drakensberg: Ezemvelo KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife: +27 (0)33 845 1999; www.kznwildlife.co.za the weather forecast is favourable. In case of an emergency, take some don'ts ■ lesotho: Map Offi ce, PO Box 876, Maseru, 100, Lesotho. Phone: +266 22 322 818 extra food and carry a tent and a fi rst aid kit. ■ Don’t cut into the bite ■ It is also wise to have a whistle to help attract attention, as well as a cell- contacts area. phone and a list of emergency numbers. Cellphone reception is available ■ general emergency: 082 911; mcsa rescue team: Rob Thomas +27 (0)82 652 1490 ■ ■ Don’t try to suck the in some areas. mountain backpackers club: www.mountainbackpackers.co.za venom out. ■ mountain club of south africa: www.mcsa.org.za ■ Never camp in a stream bed – hikers have been swept away by fl ash ■ south african weather bureau: 082 231 1600 ■ Anti-venom serum is fl oods in the past. not recommended. ■ Keep alert for snakes and take care to avoid them. There are three additional reading extremely dangerous species in the region – the Puff Adder, the Spitting ■ Drakensberg Walks – 120 graded hikes and trails in the ‘Berg, by David Bristow Cobra or Rinkhals, and the Berg Adder. ■ A Backpacker’s Guide to Lesotho, by Russel Suchet ■ Dragon’s Wrath, by James Byrom and R.O. Pearse ■ In a lightning storm, stay on lower, fl at ground, away from water, ■ Hiking trails of Southern Africa, by Willie and Sandra Olivier trees, fences, horses and cattle. Don’t stand up, but don’t lie fl at – sit down ■ The Complete Guide to Walks and Trails in Southern Africa, by Jaynee Levy and draw your knees close to your chest.

44 the maloti drakensberg experience hiking and walking 45 chapter 3 pony trekking

ony trekking is a fantastic way to experience into the heart of this rugged, majestic terrain. There the beauty of the Maloti Drakensberg region. is a range of day trails and overnight rides to choose Lesotho is particularly famous for its sure- from, enabling you to experience traditional cultures p first-hand through your local guides and hosts. footed, robust ponies, which take you deep

46 47 left The Basotho pony and these woollen blankets are part of the cultural identity of the Basotho. photo: ds far left Chief Mafa and his wife above the Makhaleng River near Malealea Lodge. This gorge is famous for its San rock art. photo: dj

Harrismith Clarens FREE STATE Bergville Botha Bothe key attractions pony trekking Ficksburg

Maseru Katse Mokhotlong 1 southern drakensberg and 2 lesotho highlands 3 khohlo-ntso pony trekking eastern lesotho The Basotho Pony Trekking Centre, located on the co-op Sani Pass There are a number of trails that take you into Molimo Nthuse Pass (which means “God Help Me” Pass), A variety of pony trails for all ages and experience- LESOTHO Underberg Lesotho on horseback. Drakensberg Adventures was set up in 1983 to help preserve the Basotho pony. levels are available at this community-based pony organizes three- to four-day trails beginning at Sani The Centre offers pony trails in the magnifi cent Lesotho trekking co-op. These trails take you into rugged and Qacha’s Nek Highlands region varying from one hour to fi ve days. You Smithfield Lodge, either over Black Mountain Pass to Molumong scenic terrain, through rare bird habitats and remote KWAZULU- in the Lesotho Highlands, or via Ramatseliso’s Gate and will encounter high mountain peaks, picturesque gorges, rural villages. You could choose to visit the nearby San Ongeluksnek Quthing NATAL along the escarpment to the magnifi cent Sehlabathebe and numerous streams and waterfalls. rock paintings or Chief Katse’s former home on some of Kokstad National Park. Khotso Trails offers guided trails ranging Getting there: From Maseru take the A5 to Roma, turn off the shorter trails, or you could explore the surrounding Aliwal North from three to fi ve days, taking you to Sehlabathebe onto the A3 to Thaba Tseka. The Basotho Pony Trekking waterfalls and mountains, which offer spectacular views, National Park. Overnight in remote Basotho villages Centre is on the Molimo Nthuse Pass (55 km from on some of the longer rides. For overnight trails you EASTERN CAPE with warm beds and hot water. The trails leave from Maseru). will stay in local villages, where you can experience Bushman’s Nek in KwaZulu-Natal. Contact: Basotho Pony Trekking Centre: +266 22 317 284 traditional Basotho singing, dancing, and meals. Elliot Getting there: From the N3 take the R617 to Notes: The Lesotho Highlands are extremely cold and Getting there: From Katse Dam take the A8 to Thaba- For more detailed information see the full Underberg, and via Himeville to Sani Pass. Sani Lodge snowy in winter, so bring appropriate clothing. Tseka. Khohlo-Ntso is 3 km beyond Makhoabeng village. size regional maps on pages 14-21 is at the base of the pass. The Bushman’s Nek turn-off Once at the village you will need to ask for Ntate is clearly signposted on the R617 from Underberg to Selebalo Ntsekele, who organizes the pony trails. Swartberg. Contact: +266 63 193 683; www.geocities.com/ Contact: Drakensberg Adventures: +27 (0)33 702 0330, katseponytreks www.sanilodge.co.za Notes: You will need to arrange accommodation at Katse Khotso Trails: +27 (0)33 701 1502, Lodge (+266 22 910 202). For overnight trails, take your +27 (0)82 412 5540, www.khotsotrails.co.za own toilet paper. Notes: Bring your passport when crossing the border. previous Pony trekking from Malealea Lodge – an unforgettable experience. photo: dj

continued overleaf photo: dj

48 the maloti drakensberg experience pony trekking 49 right Horse trails can take you deep into untouched wilderness areas. Take only photographs. Leave nothing but footprints. photo: ew far right Red-hot pokers can be seen in wetlands between Ketane and Sekoting near Malealea Lodge in late January and early February. photo: dj

key attractions pony trekking

4 southern lesotho (quthing) Malealea Lodge and Pony Trek Centre is one of Phasemane Pony Trails, in Ramabanta, is run by Lesotho’s main pony trekking bases. the village association offering day trips and overnight A partnership between a community organization, the Getting there: Take the main road south from Maseru stays in Hajoel village. Traditional food is served. Quthing Wildlife Development Trust and Malealea Lodge towards Mafeteng. At the Motsekuoa junction turn Bookings are made through the Trading Post Lodge. has opened opportunities for pony trekking, hiking and left and drive for 10 km along the tarred road, then Getting there: From Maseru take the A5 via Roma, at birding in this area. take the right fork and drive for 15 km. Turn left at the Moitsupeli turn left onto a dirt road to Ramabanta. Moorosi Chalets offers short and long pony treks up Malealea sign and proceed to the lodge. Contact: Phasemane Pony Trails: +266 22 340 202, Mount Moorosi with panoramic views and fascinating Contact: Malealea Lodge and Pony Trek Centre: www.tradingpost.co.za historical relics from the Moorosi war of 1879. +27 (0)51 436 6766, www.malealea.com Ha Liphaphang and Ha Tlhaku villages offer Semonkong Lodge works closely with the local accommodation in huts, and guided trails that are among community to organize ponies, guides and overnight the most beautiful in the region. Waterfalls, rock art, wild other horse-riding options accommodation for the trails in this region. The lodge bamboo forests, vulture colonies, and various antelope is near the Maletsunyane Falls. Besides the pony treks offered in Lesotho, many species can be seen. resorts and tourism operators in the region also offer Getting there: From the Maseru-Mafeteng road take Getting there: moorosi chalets: From Maseru take the other horse-riding activities. For more information, photo: dj the turn-off to Roma. Continue through Roma and keep A2 past Quthing (Moyeni) towards Qacha’s Nek. About 5 refer to the directory at the back of this book. going for a further 18 km. At the T-junction turn left km after Mt Moorosi take the signposted turn-off to the 5 western lesotho and travel along this dirt road for approximately 65 km chalets. From South Africa, take the Telebridge border to reach Semonkong. You will pass through Ramabanta crossing to Quthing and proceed as above. Ribaneng, Ketane and Maletsunyane Waterfalls on the way. ha liphaphang and ha tlhaku: Contact Malealea for are all situated in this region of Lesotho. The accurate directions to the villages. Maletsunyane Falls are the second highest in southern Contact: Semonkong Lodge: +266 27 006 037, www.placeofsmoke.co.ls Contact: Malealea Lodge: +27 (0)51 436 6766, Africa, with a straight vertical drop of 196 m. There are www.malealea.com a number of lodges in the area which offer pony trails in partnership with local communities ranging from a few hours to six days. for more attractions consult the directory at the back of the book

50 the maloti drakensberg experience pony trekking 51 he Maloti Drakensberg region is renowned for its incredible views and breathtaking scenery. On horseback you can reach some of the most t remote and scenic areas without the slog of hiking. The trails take you through peaceful grassy valleys and alongside tumbling rivers into the heart of these majestic mountains. You can see some of southern Africa’s most spectac- ular waterfalls, and ride through deep, rugged gorges. Some of the trails lead you up steep passes to high mountain peaks. On most of the trails you stay overnight in village huts, and experience the local food and friendly culture fi rst-hand. Pony trekking through this region is an unforgettable experience.

what is the history of the basotho ponies? The fi rst ponies in Lesotho are said to have been captured from the roaming Griqua tribes in the early 1800s. In 1829 Chief Moorosi gave a pony as a gift to King Moshoeshoe, who was so taken with his pony that he brought many more into the country. Pony riding rapidly took off as the main form of transport in Lesotho. The Basotho pony is a cross-breed between the full-size European horse and below Keeping to the shorter Javanese pony. These ponies are widely known for their strength and established tracks helps to minimize impacts on sure-footedness, which make them ideal for trails through rugged mountainous sensitive grasslands. terrain. photo: ew

involving the whole family above Pony trekking can be enjoyed by children Pony trails are an ideal venture for the whole family, as you don’t have to be an and adults alike. Malealea experienced rider to feel secure in the saddle. Most of the ponies are extremely Valley. photo: ds tame and well-trained, and are used to being ridden by a wide variety of riders. You are always accompanied by a guide who is very familiar with the terrain and the ponies. Overnight rides may be too demanding for young children, but there are many short trails available which can be enjoyed by the whole family.

what is the best time of year for pony trekking? Riding is excellent through most of the year, but remember that the winter months can be harsh in this region, with extremely volatile weather patterns. For this reason, all rides are subject to change due to bad weather.

52 exploring the maloti drakensberg experiencemountains pony trekking 53 right A lone rider navigates the spectacular “Gates of Paradise” Pass at sunset. photo: dj middle picture Pony trekking allows you to stay overnight in village huts where you experience the local culture fi rst-hand. photo: dj far right Red-hot pokers near the Ribaneng Waterfall. photo: dj

preparing for a pony trek what to take a sustainable with you: All trails are accompanied by an experienced guide, and all horse-riding equipment is provided. The weather in winter is cold and snowy, so bring source of ■ a wide-brimmed appropriate clothing, including long pants to protect you from the riding gear. income sun-hat Bear in mind that the weather throughout the year is very changeable, so ■ Ponies are rented from ■ warm clothing have rain gear with you, and make sure that you are always prepared for the communities ■ rain gear sub-zero temperatures as most of the trails are at high altitudes. how can you support the local Although most of the water on the trails is suitable for drinking, it is safest ■ ■ strong riding pants or community? Local guides are used jeans to purify it beforehand. Ultraviolet radiation is high in the thin atmosphere Pony trekking in Lesotho is a unique tourist activity, in that the local commu- ■ Accommodation, and in ■ sturdy closed shoes of the Drakensberg and Maloti Mountains, so make sure that you have sun nities are closely involved with its organization. Most of the ponies belong some cases, meals, are ■ low-temperature protection. to them, and your guides are local people. Pony trekking therefore provides provided in rural villages sleeping bag Depending on the village in which you will stay, you may need to bring sustainable income to the communities. ■ sleeping mat your own food, and utensils for cooking and eating. Check with your travel Keep trails pristine and Most of the overnight stops are in villages, where you have the opportu- ■ sun protection cream guide beforehand to make sure that you have all the equipment you need for encourage operators and nity of engaging in the culture and life-style of Lesotho in a truly authentic ■ water bottle and water- the overnight trips. On some trips a packhorse is used to carry your overnight other visitors to do likewise; way, at the same time knowing that you are contributing to the economic purifying tablets luggage. It is therefore a good idea to have a small day-pack in which you contribute to sustainable development of the community. In addition, the villagers are encouraged to ■ skin-balm (for chafed keep items that you may need during the day. livelihoods through tourism. protect the natural environment to ensure the appeal of these areas to tour- limbs and buttocks) Some of the overnight trips are strenuous, as they involve six or seven ists. This results in a mutually benefi cial and sustainable relationship. ■ a torch and batteries hours of riding each day. If you are not used to riding, your body will be quite ■ a day-pack sore at the end of the day, so be prepared for a bit of character-building discomfort! You may fi nd it useful to have some kind of soothing balm for ■ food and cooking uten- further information and resources sils for self-catering chafed skin. trails the malealea website has a wealth of information about the region, including Basotho ponies, Sotho cultural traditions and tourism opportunities; www.malealea.com information on pony trekking and related activities can be found on the Lesotho Tourism Development Corporation website; www.ltdc.org.ls

54 the maloti drakensberg experience pony trekking 55 chapter 4 fl y- fi shing

eautiful scenery, undiscovered fishing spots The region still offers the possibility of undiscovered fishing and plenty of strong, wild fish. When the sites, with fish that are exceptional in size and condition, and conditions are right, the Maloti Drakensberg some of the country’s best sight-fishing locations for Smallmouth Mountains are a fly-fisher’s dream. The clean, and Largemouth Yellowfish. Step out into the beautiful waters b cold mountain streams and dams ensure of these mountains and try your hand at an age-old pastime ideal conditions for yellowfish and trout. that is creating new opportunities in community tourism.

56 57 left The rivers of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park offer idyllic fi shing opportunities. Contact Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. photo: sp far left The Bokong River feeding into Katse Dam is a great spot for trout. photo: bb

Harrismith Clarens FREE STATE Bergville Botha Bothe key attractions FLY-FISHING Ficksburg

Maseru Katse Mokhotlong 1 sterkfontein dam (eastern 2 katse dam (lesotho 3 ha liphaphang village free state) highlands) (quthing, southern lesotho) Sani Pass This is considered the best still-water sight-fi shing Katse Dam offers the intrepid fl y-fi sher the challenge Ha Liphaphang village is a destination for fl y-fi shers LESOTHO Underberg location in the country for Smallmouth and Largemouth of discovering the best fi shing areas for yellowfi sh and who want to try an undiscovered location. It is part of the Yellowfi sh. Bass, carp, catfi sh and some Rainbow Trout trout. Some of the areas around the dam have very Quthing Wildlife Development Trust ecotourism initiative. Qacha’s Nek Smithfield are also resident in this dam. Fishing conditions are steep valley sides, making shore-fi shing diffi cult and This rugged mountain area has two very clean rivers KWAZULU- usually very good, as the water is crystal clear, fresh dangerous. It is worth exploring the inlets of the Bokong which are home to a large Rainbow Trout population. Ongeluksnek Quthing NATAL and clean. It is primarily a summer fi shing venue, as and Malibamatso rivers which contain large numbers of The area has diverse fauna and fl ora, and boasts nine Kokstad the yellowfi sh remain in the deep waters in winter, trout. A boat is useful to reach less accessible parts of recorded sites of well-preserved San rock art. There are Aliwal North feeding off the underwater plant life. Self-catering the dam. guides, a basic campsite and traditional huts. accommodation and campsites are available. Getting there: From Maseru follow the A1 to Leribe. Getting there: From Maseru take the A2 through Quthing EASTERN CAPE Getting there: From Harrismith take the N5 turning Follow signs for 122 km to Katse Dam. Alternatively, (Moyeni) to Mount Moorosi. Follow the signs to Tsatsane onto the R74. From Bergville take the R74 to reach the follow the Mountain Road from Maseru towards the east Bushman paintings. From South Africa, take the Tele Elliot reserve. via Molimo Nthuse Pass to Thaba Tseka. Bridge border crossing to Quthing and proceed as above. For more detailed information see the full Contact: +27 (0)58 622 1093 Contact: +266 22 910 805 Contact: Malealea Lodge: +27 (0)51 436 6766, size regional maps on pages 14-21 Notes: A boat is useful to get to the best fi shing areas. Notes: Motorized boats are not allowed on the dam. www.malealea.com See www.fosaf.co.za Notes: Pay a fi shing fee of M50 to the Ha Liphaphang Tourist Offi ce. A high-clearance or 4×4 vehicle is needed. “The best fl y to use is the one that you have just caught a fi sh with.” Wolf Avni

previous Build up a selection of fl ies – you’ll soon discover your favourites. photo: ew continued overleaf photo: bb

58 the maloti drakensberg experience fly-fishing 59 right Peace and solitude attract fl y-fi shers to the Eastern Cape. Upper Bell River near Rhodes. photo: mario geldenhuys far right The Mzimkhulu River at Garden Castle in the southern Drakensberg offers a magnifi cent setting for trout- fi shing. Fishing permits are available from the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife offi ce. photo: bb

key attractions FLY-FISHING

4 mokhotlong (eastern 6 rivers of the kwazulu-natal 7 north-eastern cape lesotho) drakensberg This beautiful region in the northern part of the Eastern Cape has many clean, accessible streams. Yellowfi sh and Mokhotlong is a destination for those who appreciate The cold, clean streams coming off the top of the wild-bred trout are available in abundance. The main solitude and stark beauty. This still largely unexplored fl y- Drakensberg are considered the heartland of South fi shing rivers are: Bell River (near Rhodes), Rifl e Spruit fi shers’ heaven has many streams with abundant small African trout-fi shing. Some of the best fi shing rivers are: (near Barkly East), Bok Spruit (near Rhodes), Sterk Spruit yellowfi sh, as well as Rainbow and Brown Trout. Some of Southern Drakensberg: Mzimkhulu River (Underberg); (near Lady Grey), Joggem Spruit (between New England the recognized fi shing sites are the Mokhotlong River, the Pholela River (Himeville); Ngwangwane River (Coleford and Rhodes), Langkloof River (between Barkly East and Khubelu River, the Soloane River and the De Beers Dam. Nature Reserve/Umgano Project area). Lady Grey), Saalboom Spruit (between Barkly East and Mokhotlong is one of the most remote areas of Lesotho. Central Drakensberg: Bushman’s River (Giant’s Castle – photo: sp Lady Grey) and Karringmelk Spruit (between Barkly East Other rivers in eastern Lesotho, which you can reach via one of the best sites); Mooi River (Kamberg); Loteni River and Lady Grey). The association recommends that fi sh be Sani Pass, are the Sani, Linakeng and Sehonghong rivers. (Loteni). 5 clarens (eastern free state) released to ensure that the supply remains strong. The The MDTP District offi ce is working to open up nature and Northern Drakensberg: uThukela River (Royal Natal best fi shing is in April and May. Most of the waters here culture-based tourism opportunities in the area. There are numerous fi shing opportunities for National Park). are administered by the Wild Trout Association (WTA). Getting there: Take the A1 from Botha Bothe via Oxbow yellowfi sh, Brown Trout and Rainbow Trout near the Parts of the rivers fl ow through community-owned land. Getting there: The area is reached from the R58 between to Mokhotlong, or take the R617 to Underberg, then go picturesque town of Clarens, in dams and on the Ash and The uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site is Aliwal North and Barkly East, or the R56 from Molteno on to Himeville and drive up to Sani Pass. Small Caledon rivers. The South African record Rainbow administered by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. Trout (8,25 kg) was caught in the Mitsei Matso Dam near through Ugie to Maclear. Contact: MDTP Mokhotlong District offi ce: +266 22 920 338 Contact: KZN Wildlife: +27 (0)33 845 1000, QwaQwa. Excellent trout-fi shing is available at private www.kznwildlife.com, www.drakensberg-tourism.com, Contact: Wild Trout Association: +27 (0)45 974 9290, Notes: Be sure to get permission from the Chief before farms. Contact the local fi shing club to fi nd the best sites. or www.drakensberg.org www.wildtrout.co.za fi shing. You need a 4×4 vehicle for Sani Pass. You can also visit the Caledon Flies factory, a job creation Notes: Fishing is closed in the spawning season (31 May to project employing local women who tie fl ies for export. Getting there: All areas can be reached from the N3. southern drakensberg take the R617 at Howick to 31 August). Getting there: Clarens can be reached from the N5 Underberg. central drakensberg follow signs from between Harrismith and Bethlehem. the highway at Estcourt and Mooi River. Take the R74 to Contact: Trouthunter Fly Club +27 (0)58 256 1742, Winterton and Bergville for the northern drakensberg. www.trouthunter.co.za, www.caledonfl ies.com for more attractions consult the Notes: Always get permission from the landowners. directory at the back of the book

60 the maloti drakensberg experience fly-fishing 61 “I have found outhern African still-water fi sh are comparatively large and strong. There that fi sh at is a growing interest in South Africa and internationally towards fl y- s fi shing for indigenous fi sh. In the Maloti Drakensberg region yellowfi sh Sterkfontein are favoured, as these are strong, wild fi sh which offer rewarding angling. There are most are ten species of yellowfi sh in South Africa. Two of these are common in the likely to take Maloti Drakensberg region. The Eastern Cape and Lesotho are home to the Small- a dry line with mouth Yellowfi sh. The Natal Yellowfi sh (“Natal Scaly”) occurs in KwaZulu-Natal waters. small nymphs Skilled fl y-fi shers may have the rare thrill of hooking the endangered Large- between the mouth Yellowfi sh in areas of the Eastern Free State such as Sterkfontein Dam. sizes of 12 and This species can reach sizes of more than 5 kg. Considering its endangered status, 14. A dry fl y you should always return this fi sh to the water immediately. is especially Rainbow and Brown Trout are abundant in the many mountain streams and dams of the region. Trout are not indigenous to southern Africa. Brown Trout effective during were introduced from Scotland over 100 years ago, and Rainbow Trout about a evening hours.” decade later. Alien fi sh introductions worldwide have had a negative impact on aquatic fauna, and once introduced they are diffi cult to eradicate. Dr Mike Birkett Trout do, however, bring advantages to local communities, as many fl y- what fl y should I use? Fly-fi shing is opening economic fi shing rivers run through community-owned land. This creates opportunities for opportunities for local The fl ies which are mainly taken by yellowfi sh and trout represent communities. economic development in these areas. Trout are now considered to be a part of mayfl ies, caddis fl ies, midges and stonefl ies. Yellowfi sh are omnivorous, left Mhlobo Mbane is an Eastern below A fl y-fi sherman the cold river systems of South Africa, but you should never introduce them into and supplement their diet with aquatic plants and algae, particularly Cape river guide. demonstrates the water where they do not yet occur. This is because they prey on the indigenous photo: brenda molentske correct way to hold the in the winter months. Most yellowfi sh are caught on the riverbed, so species, including the critically endangered Maloti Minnow which now occurs right Caledon Flies in Clarens Natal Yellowfi sh at the depth is important. During the early morning and evening, however, dry employs 84 women in a job Malibomotso River entering only in the higher reaches of mountain streams and was at one time thought to fl ies have proven productive. creation project. photo: garth brook Katse Dam. have become extinct. Because of the wide variety of fl ies and other insects on which the fi sh in this region feed, there is no one particular fl y which is more successful than any other. The best fl y to use is one that you feel confi - practical and dent with. safety tips:

which seasons are best for fl y-fi shing? ■ Always have warm clothing and rain gear with Summer, if the rivers are not fl owing too strongly, is the best time for you, as temperatures can yellowfi sh. While they prefer warm water, at the end of summer they fl uctuate enormously, even swim upstream into the cooler mountain waters to spawn. The best in summer. seasons for trout-fi shing are spring and autumn. Autumn is particularly ■ Use high-factor sunblock, productive, since the fi sh are pregnant and need food. They therefore sun-hats, long trousers and take the fl y easily. Note that trout in Lesotho spawn earlier than those long-sleeved shirts. in South Africa. Summer is not as rewarding, as the rivers are often too ■ Take cover in your car high and “in spate” with unclear water. In winter the rivers are low, and during thunderstorms. many waters are closed to fi shing from June to August. Stand away from trees and During summer the fi sh are often most active at fi rst light, although tall structures. the larger, deeper lakes can fi sh well throughout the day. In winter the ■ Don’t leave valuables nights are bitterly cold and the days bright and clear. Best fi shing during unattended. this period is often at last light, when the water is at its warmest. ■ Be alert for snakes.

62 exploring the maloti drakensberg experiencemountains fly-fishing 63 left Revenues from fi shing in the Umgano project area in KwaZulu- Natal contribute directly to the community. photo: bb far left Finding just the right spot might mean getting your feet wet. photo: ew

fun for the family If you want to fi sh on a stretch of privately owned river, ask the land-owner for catch and permission in return for a fee. The land-owner should be able to give you hints The golden release tips: Fly-fi shing is great fun for everyone – you can learn as you go, spend some time with an experienced angler or join one of the many fl y-fi shing clubs and ideas for fi shing in these rivers. If the river that you want to fi sh is on commu- rule is: nity-owned land, you will need to approach the community leader for permission Return the fi sh to the water and have a few lessons before you hit the big time. Remember, if you are Find out in return for a fee. with as little trauma as letting small children participate it is a good idea to make sure that they who is in possible. wear a life jacket at all times. Learning to tie fl ies is an art form in itself and charge of the should carry a reward for the younger participants producing the best fl ies. fi shing regulations in lesotho ■ Use barbless hooks. ■ The licence fee is M5.00. Licences are obtainable from: The Ministry of Agricul- area where ■ Use a net, and take the you want to how can I be an eco-friendly fl y-fi sher? ture, Livestock Division, Private Bag A82, Maseru 100. Tel: (+266) 22 323 986 fi sh off the hook under ■ Closed season for trout-fi shing is between 1st June and 31st August. fi sh, and get Part of the attraction of southern African fl y-fi shing waters is the unspoilt water. ■ Fishing tackle for trout: only rod and line and artifi cial non-spinning fl ies may ecology of the locations, the wilderness experience and the good condition permission ■ Don’t touch the fi sh with be used. Landing net and gaff are not permitted. of the fi sh. These conditions are only sustainable if fl y-fi shers practise sensi- before you dry hands. ■ Bag limit for trout: twelve trout over 10 inches (25 centimetres) in length. tive, eco-friendly fi shing. If you are fi shing for your evening meal, keep only fi sh there! ■ Hold the fi sh under its Other trout must be returned to the water. one or two trout – any other fi sh, including all yellowfi sh, should be released throat and tail – don’t put immediately. Keep to established tracks and trails wherever possible. Carry your fi ngers into the gills. out whatever you have brought in and any litter you may fi nd. Encourage ■ Don’t keep the fi sh out of landowners to keep their streams free of alien plants which reduce the water longer than neces- water fl ow and impact on the aquatic plants and animals. further information and resources sary. (Try holding your breath for as long as the do I need permission to fi sh? ■ For fi shing clubs in South Africa contact the Federation of Southern African Fly-fi shers, www.fosaf.co.za fi sh is out of water!) ■ Lesotho: The Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock Division, Private Bag A82, Maseru 100. +266 22 323 986 Gone are the days when you could wander up to any piece of water and ■ Have your camera ready, simply cast your line. You should make sure that you have permission to fi sh ■ For more information on yellowfi sh: www.yellowsonfl y.com and take your photo in the river or dam that you are interested in. ■ quickly. additional reading: Favoured Flies and Techniques of the Experts, Vol 2, Edited by Malcolm Meintjes It is a good idea to get in touch with the local fi shing club, where you will and Murray Pedder, distributed by FoSAF ■ Return the fi sh to the be able to get a temporary fi shing permit at reasonable cost. They will fi ll ■ The Nedbank Guide to Flyfi shing in Southern Africa (5th Edition), edited by Louis water as gently as you in on their rules and guidelines, and will also be able to give you good Wolhuter, The Federation of Southern African Fly-fi shers (FoSAF) possible. tips on the area, and ideas of where the best fi shing locations are.

64 the maloti drakensberg experience fly-fishing 65 chapter 5 rock art

he unique and inspiring rock art of the Maloti – some 45 000 images in 2 000 sites – is unrivalled Drakensberg makes this region one of the finest anywhere in the world. This immense wealth of spellbinding outdoor art galleries in the world. The range of imagery provides us with fascinating insights into the lives t colours and skilful techniques is seldom seen in rock and beliefs of the people who painted them; some many paintings elsewhere, while the sheer concentration thousands of years ago, others within living memory.

66 67 right Liphofung shelter is the smallest reserve managed by the Lesotho Highlands Development Authority. photo: ds middle San people are depicted in a diorama at Giant’s Castle Main Caves in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park. photo: sp far right The procession of eland at Game Pass Shelter is one of the best-preserved rock art panels. Community custodians will accompany you to the shelter. photo: sp

Harrismith Clarens FREE STATE Bergville Botha Bothe key attractions rock art Ficksburg

Maseru Katse Mokhotlong 1 liphofung (eastern 2 ha baroana (western 3 sehlabathebe national park lesotho) lesotho) (south-eastern lesotho) Sani Pass Stand in hushed awe beneath the magnifi cent In this massive overhang the San have left a This high mountain wonderland of amazing rock LESOTHO Underberg sandstone overhang of Liphofung – “the place of the magnifi cent gallery – paintings of animals and birds such formations, small lakes and massive rock overhangs has eland” – and experience a deep sense of ages past. as leopard, eland, blue crane and guinea fowl; and of San some of the last paintings made by the San. You can Qacha’s Nek Smithfield This was the domain of the San before herdsmen hunting and dancing. hire a guide to lead you to the best rock art sites in this KWAZULU- sheltered their fl ocks here or before King Moshoeshoe, remote wilderness. Ongeluksnek Getting there: From Maseru travel 39 km east on the Quthing NATAL founder of the Basotho nation, hid here from his main Mountain Road, then turn left for 5,5 km on a Getting there: Enter Lesotho via Ramatseliso’s Gate or Kokstad enemies. The art includes splendid depictions of gravel road. A trail winds down to the Liphiring Stream Qacha’s Nek border posts and continue to Sehlabathebe. Aliwal North human fi gures and of eland superimposed on older which you cross to enter the shelter. Alternatively, it is a two- to three-hour hike or horse ride paintings. Guides and overnight accommodation are Contact: Ministry of Tourism, Environment and Culture: from Bushman’s Nek near Underberg. EASTERN CAPE available at the Liphofung Cultural Village. +266 22 313 034 Contact: Sehlabathebe National Park: +266 22 311 767 Getting there: Enter Lesotho at the Caledonspoort Elliot Notes: You need your passport. If you travel by road, border post and drive to Botha Bothe. From there, a 4×4 vehicle is a must. There is no fuel available at For more detailed information see the full take the Oxbow road for about 30 km, then turn left to Sehlabathebe. size regional maps on pages 14-21 Liphofung. Contact: Liphofung Bookings: +266 22 460 273

previous Game Pass Shelter. uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site, considered one of the 10 best rock art sites in the world. In 1916 it became the fi rst internationally-recorded rock art site in South Africa. continued overleaf photo: sp photo: ds

68 the maloti drakensberg experience rock art 69 right Main Caves at Giant’s Castle, uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park. The region is full of these sandstone shelters in which the San made homes for themselves. photo: ew far right Eland superimposed (painted on top of earlier paintings) at Dunorbin Shelter in the Eastern Cape.

key attractions rock art

4 ukhahlamba drakensberg 5 clarens (eastern free state) 6 north-eastern cape park world heritage site Caves abound in the unique landscape of golden The inevitable meeting of cultures with the Kamberg Rock Art Centre is the gateway to Game sandstone cliffs in the Clarens area, making it a arrival of Europeans is captivatingly recorded in some Pass Shelter, famous for its vivid and well-preserved rock wonderful place to drive from site to site in search of of the caves of the picturesque North-eastern Cape. art. A DVD presentation gives insight into the history of fascinating artistic imagery. Noteworthy sites in the area Contemplate astonishing paintings of ox wagons the rock art and its creators. A 1½-hr walk takes you to include Koerland, Allandale, Basotho Cultural Village and people on horseback, side by side with more the shelter where you can see the renowned “Rosetta and St Fort. The famous Schaapplaats site has intriguing traditional paintings. Many sites have stunning examples renditions of half-human, half-antelope fi gures and of polychrome-shaded antelope in a wide variety Panel”, considered by some as the key to interpreting photo: sp San rock art. Giant’s Castle Main Caves is one of the most Dassie Rock at Kiara Lodge boasts the only known San of stances. Accessible and impressive sites include painting of a dassie, or rock hyrax. Dunorbin, Chamisso, the Prentjiesberg hiking trail, Getting there: From Nottingham Road or Rosetta, near accessible rock art sites. The 2-km walk is well Getting there: Kalkoenkrans and Craigmore. Mooi River, follow the signs to Kamberg Nature Reserve. signposted from the main camp. A custodian will meet Clarens is about 40 km south of you at the caves. Bethlehem; it can be reached on the R712 or R711. Getting there: The sites are in the areas surrounding the Contact: Kamberg Rock Art Centre: +27 (0)33 267 7282 Getting there: From the N3, at either Estcourt or Mooi Contact: Clarens Tourism: +27 (0)58 256 1542 towns of Maclear, Rhodes and Ugie. Notes: The centre is open seven days a week, but you River, follow the sign to Giant’s Castle. Notes: Contact: Eastern Cape Tourism: +27 (0)51 633 3567 must phone ahead to book a guide. Most sites in this area are on private land and many Contact: Giant’s Castle: +27 (0)36 353 3718 require prior booking. You can contact Clarens Tourism for Notes: These rock art sites are all on private land and Didima Rock Art Centre has innovative displays and more information. require prior booking. a mesmerizing audiovisual show about the Drakensberg Injasuthi, Battle Cave shows the confl ict between two rock art. Vivid paintings can be seen at Lower San groups among hundreds of other images. There Mushroom Shelter, Brotherton and Procession Shelter. are beautiful paintings of eland and rare paintings of a Knowledgeable community custodians can be hired at mongoose and an aardvark. The walk is not diffi cult and Didima Camp. will take 2½ hours each way. Getting there: From Winterton, follow signs to Didima. Getting there: From the N3 take the Loskop Rd and The Centre is just before the Cathedral Peak Hotel. follow signs to Injasuthi. for more attractions consult the Contact: Didima Rock Art Centre: +27 (0)36 488 8025; Contact: Injasuthi: +27 (0)36 431 7848 directory at the back of the book Didima Camp: +27 (0)36 488 1332 Notes: You must book in advance for a custodian to accompany you. photo: sp

70 the maloti drakensberg experience rock art 71 right Eland and San huts he Maloti Drakensberg region is a treasure trove of some of the most at Eland Cave. outstanding rock art to be found anywhere in the world. The unique style photo: pc t of the paintings is instantly recognizable, by children and adults alike, and the techniques that the San used to achieve this visual distinctiveness are far right Eland are by far the dominant truly remarkable. Even if you have seen examples of some of this rock art in animal depicted in the museums, or in photographs, nothing can quite prepare you for the wonder and rock art of the region. excitement of seeing the real thing close-up. The fat and blood of the There is something deeply spiritual about standing in the very spot where the eland are considered to original artist stood as he painted a majestic eland, skilfully using black, white have potency and were sometimes used in the and different shades of red, yellow, and brown to defi ne its form and to make paint. photo: pc its muscles ripple under the surface of its skin. Marvel at the way the magnifi - cent animal is shown in a three-dimensional pose, looking backwards over its shoulder at the hunters who are closing in on it. Puzzle over mystical-looking creatures and strange markings painted near them – then turn and gaze over the beautiful grassy hills and valleys, as the artist might have done.

what did they use for paint? what do the paintings show? talk the talk ■ Red, orange and yellow paint were made from rock or soil rich in iron oxide. Until recently people saw the rock paintings as scenes taken from San – sound like a ■ daily life: quaint depictions of hunting, fi ghting, food collecting and Black pigment was usually made from black clay or soils rich in manganese, rock art expert! and occasionally from burnt bone or charcoal. strange rituals. But in the 1970s researchers came to believe that the ■ paintings relate to the religious beliefs of the San and are refl ections of White pigment, the least durable, was made from fi ne clay and perhaps shaded polychrome: Skilful below The “Rosetta Panel” sometimes from bird droppings. the spirit world. at Game Pass Shelter is use of colours and shading to A popular view is that the paintings were probably created by shamans considered by many rock Sometimes binders such as melted fat, egg white or eland blood were used in give the painting a distinctive – healers or medicine people. According to this view, a shaman would go art researchers as the key the paint. Earlier paintings have survived better than those done more recently, visual realism. to interpreting San rock suggesting that artists in more recent times had lost the knowledge about into a hallucinatory trance, enter the spirit realm and interact with the foreshortening: Relative art. photo: ew binding paints. spirits. The paintings are a record of what was revealed in that altered sizing of an image to give it state of consciousness. a 3D look by making areas As such, the paintings are believed to be imbued with a special power. of the painting that should So much so that some African izangoma (diviners) scrape pigment off the appear to be closer to the paintings to use in making particularly powerful muti (medicine). Others viewer proportionally larger use these powerfully sacred places as venues to train their students, and than areas that are further some rock art sites are still visited in secret by people of San descent. away. Many of the paintings show fantastical spirit creatures such as rain animals (often eland) and therianthropes (partly human, partly animal therianthropes: Depictions forms). These suggest that the medicine person has taken on the power of part-human, part-animal of the animal. A shaman in a trance would experience nasal bleeding forms (often part-eland); like a wounded eland and this blood was sometimes rubbed onto other believed to have held great participants of the ritual to ward off bad luck and sickness. spiritual signifi cance. Eland are the most frequently-painted animal subjects and are the superimposition: New most elaborately-treated of all the images. Depictions of eland have artwork painted over existing multiple meanings – related to rainmaking and puberty ceremonies; used images; believed to have as a symbol of group identity or a metaphor for the trance state; or an been done sometimes to attempt to capture the spirit of selected animals to ensure a successful “recharge” the site with spir- hunt. itual potency.

72 exploring the maloti drakensberg experiencemountains rock art 73 left One of the very few photographs of Drakensberg Bushmen taken in 1884 at a time when they were still hunting in the region. source: frans prins above Rock art at Ha Sekonyela. photo: dj right The “rain animal” is often depicted being pulled across the sky in the spirit realm, to bring rain. photo: dj far right The annual ceremony of the Duma clan in which they pay homage to their Bushman ancestors. photo: fp

what do we know about the san of the living heritage of the secret san what makes this this area? the changing names rock art unique? By the 1920s popular opinion held that the San of the Maloti Drak- of a timeless people The San have lived in this region for many thousands of years. ensberg were extinct. Then in 1928 a farmer found a perfect bow ■ An uncommonly wide range of Carbon dating suggests that the oldest remaining paintings were and arrow set in Eland Cave in the Didima area, giving rise to much The exotic clicking sounds of the San colours created about 4 000 years ago. Other archaeological evidence indi- speculation that there were still pockets of San living deep in the languages often prove too much for ■ Foreshortening and shading used cates that the San people were already here thousands of years mountains. This did not prove to be the case, but it is certainly true most European tongues to cope with. to give 3D realism – rare in rock art before that. that the descendants of the San have secretly continued to visit Linguists use various symbols to repre- ■ Animals depicted in a wide variety The themes and styles of the rock art over the centuries appear signifi cant sites. sent these clicks. The original name of stances to be relatively consistent, but there is evidence that stone tools, Now that popular opinion toward the San is no longer hateful, of the San in the Giant’s Castle and ■ Many paintings are very detailed social networks, and even economic strategies changed over the the exciting truth is more readily announced: the San were not Kamberg area was //xegwi. Those in with exquisitely fi ne lines the Tsolo, Ugie and Maclear area were ■ last 18 000 years. The San remained hunter gatherers and foragers totally annihilated – many intermarried with their African neigh- Interesting and varied subject !ga !ne, and the groupings in Lesotho until the arrival of other immigrant groups. bours, changing their names and taking on new cultural identi- matter – including hunter gatherer were known as baroa, a Sotho term. life, mystical imagery and the That has changed dramatically over the last few hundred years, ties. Some kept aspects of their culture alive, visiting each other arrival of other peoples with the arrival of the black Nguni tribes, followed later by white in secret, frequenting their rock art sites under cover of darkness bushman is the English form of the ■ Expression of the religious hunters and farmers of the European colonial period. Some of the and still performing healing and rainmaking ceremonies for their old Dutch term Bosjesman, meaning and mythological world of the rock art shows these intruders as seen by the San – in fascinating African neighbours as their ancestors had for centuries. Today about people of the bushes. Although Mountain San paintings of black herdsmen and their cattle, of men on horseback, 600 people in the area are proud to regard themselves ethnically regarded by some as derogatory, other ■ The vast number of images and as San, and have adopted the Nguni term Abathwa – meaning groups prefer the term. sites covered wagons and soldiers carrying rifl es. These images testify “fi rst people” – for themselves. ■ Painted over a time span of 4 000 to what must have been fearful times for the short-statured and Recently the San descendants in the years relatively peaceable San. They could no longer roam freely in the This includes the Duma clan in the Kamberg area, who have Drakensberg area agreed to adopt ■ Many images in extremely good area between the coast and the Drakensberg. They withdrew to recently been granted the right to perform their annual sacred the term abathwa for themselves. condition the relative safety of the mountains, from where they raided the eland ceremonies at Game Pass Shelter. abathwa is an Nguni term referring to ■ Some shelters are living heritage intruders’ cattle in the surrounding countryside. This led to a British The last known painters were Lindiso Majola, from the Maclear all “fi rst people” throughout Africa. sites – they are still visited by garrison being stationed at Fort Nottingham to halt such raids and area, and Kerrick Ntusi, who is still alive, living in the southern KZN San descendants and others who san, a Khoikhoi word meaning pursue the San raiders. The retribution of the farmers was merci- Drakensberg. Both painted around 1920. regard the paintings as sacred and Outsider, is still the most commonly less and by the dawn of the twentieth century there was almost no containing potency. used term. trace of the many San who had lived in the area.

74 the maloti drakensberg experience rock art 75 right Confl ict between two San Bushman groups is depicted at Battle Cave at Injasuthi in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site. middle Depictions of cattle and a lion. Note the foreshortening of one of the cows. photo: pc far right Details from depictions of people and animals in various rock art panels. photos: pc, ew, fp

rock art etiquette enjoying rock art with children protecting rock Rock art is of immense archaeological and cultural worth – and it is irre- Most children love tales of long ago and are enchanted by the idea that people art placeable. It is protected by law. Observing the following basic rules will lived in these caves and overhangs, in the heart of the beautiful mountains. ensure that you uphold the spirit of the law and help to preserve this Before entering a rock art site, be sure that your children understand the do’s Rock art is easily damaged. Treat rock art sites with respect wonderful heritage for future generations. and don’ts of how to behave around rock art. The challenge with younger children and don’t do anything that ■ Rock art sites must only be visited with a guide. Get permission in is sure to be that they naturally want to touch the paintings, so you will need to could harm the art in any way, advance from the relevant authorities or landowner. keep your eyes on them at all times. either directly or indirectly. If An easy way to include them in the experience is to ask them to tell you what ■ Never touch or lean on the paintings – fats and oils from your skin you notice recent damage or animals they can see in the paintings and also what the people are doing, carrying damage the paint. alteration to a site, inform the or wearing. They usually thoroughly enjoy piecing together stories from pictures, ■ local heritage agency. Also Never wet the art with water, saliva, or any other liquid, not even “just so stand back and enjoy a stream of highly imaginative interpretations! contact them if you fi nd what to make the colours stand out”. Older children will be able to appreciate some of the fi ner details of the history appears to be an unknown ■ Avoid stirring up dust – some of it settles on the art and hardens into a and interpretations of the art – if you don’t have a guide with you, be prepared to site. crust which obscures the paintings. give them some of the background information yourself. ■ In Lesotho, contact the local ■ Never trace the art – it is easily damaged. After the outing, give your budding artists some paints and paper, and watch museum or Ministry of ■ Don’t interfere with the paintings in any way. Don’t scrape them, high- them produce their very own “rock art” – at this stage a reminder to “never draw Culture: light the outlines or add your own drawings. The damage is irreversible on walls” would probably be a good idea! +266 22 311 767 and graffi ti anywhere within 50 m of a rock art site could cost you a fi ne ■ In KwaZulu-Natal, contact of up to a million rand and/or imprisonment for up to fi ve years. further information and resources Amafa: +27 (0)33 394 6543 ■ Never remove stone tools, pottery, bones or other objects from a site. ■ You can also contact the ■ Basotho Cultural Village: +27 (0)58 721 0300 ■ If you see anybody damaging the art, please report the incident. local museums or the South ■ The Natal Museum, Pietermaritzburg: +27 (0)33 345 1404 African Heritage Resources ■ Never make fi res in shelters containing rock art. Agency (SAHRA): additional reading ■ In the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site you may not +27 (0)21 462 4502 ■ Nqabayo’s Nomansland, San Rock Art and the Somatic Past. Geoffrey Blundell, Rock Art Research Institute, overnight in shelters where there is rock art. ■ In the UDPWHS contact the University of the Witwatersrand. Biodiversity conservationist: In addition, remember that for some the rock art sites are sacred places ■ Images of Mystery: Rock Art of the Drakensberg. Lewis-Williams J.D., Double Story Books. worthy of reverence. Behave respectfully and speak quietly, especially +27 (0)33 239 1508 ■ Bushman Rock Art. Gavin Anderson & John Hone, Art Publishers. when accompanied by descendants of the San.

76 the maloti drakensberg experience rock art 77 chapter 6 fl oral splendour

he Maloti Drakensberg is a world of botanical opulence; more than 10 percent of the plant diversity of southern Africa. an Eden of beautiful and rare plants, many with spectacular This is more than the native flora of Switzerland or Germany flowers, at least 16 percent of which occur nowhere else and double that of Britain. In the right season you can step t in the world. Its wooded valleys, grassy slopes and high out into any part of this floral wonderland and find yourself summits harbour in excess of 3 000 species of flora – fascinated and enchanted by the treasures that await you.

78 79 right Gladiolus longicollis (Honey fl ower), Eastern Buttress, uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site (UDPWHS). middle Glumicalyx goseloides, a Maloti Drakensberg endemic at Sani Pass in the UDPWHS. far right Erica creeping over rock on Cathkin Peak, UDPWHS.

Harrismith Clarens FREE STATE

Bergville splendour oral fl Botha Bothe key attractions Ficksburg Maseru Katse Mokhotlong 1 sani pass, black mountain 2 naude’s nek (north-eastern 3 lady grey – joubert’s pass pass and the sehonghong cape) (north-eastern cape) Sani Pass valley, lesotho At an altitude of 2 623 m, this is the highest dirt road This pass in the southernmost extension of the LESOTHO Underberg mountain pass in South Africa. Around Rhodes, Tiffi ndell Drakensberg – the Witteberg – and opened in 1914, Travelling by 4×4 vehicle (with a driver who is and Wartrail you fi nd alpine and sub-alpine fl ower genera takes you into Karoo sandstone and basalt peaks with Qacha’s Nek prepared to make lots of stops) is the best way to Smithfield see the plants of the spectacular Sani Pass. Crossing such as Lachenalia, Harveya, Jamesbrittenia, Cyrtanthus, succulents and high-altitude plants. You fi nd the scarlet KWAZULU- Erica, Dierama and Gladiolus. In November, January and Phygelius capensis (Cape fuchsia), purple geraniums and Ongeluksnek the different altitude zones enables you to see an Quthing NATAL exceptionally rich range of species. Allow a few hours February you can fi nd fi elds blooming with large lilac a wide variety of daisy fl owers and bushes endemic to Kokstad to continue travelling to the top of the Black Mountain daisy fl owers of Berkheya purpurea, the white-fl owering the high mountain region. Take the scenic route over the Aliwal North Pass where you will fi nd some wonderful alpine grey-leaved Eumorphia sericea, a low-growing shrub, pass to Barkly East to see the Gladiolus oppositifl orus in the tall yellow iris Moraea alticola, and Giant Pokers season and unusual species of Zaluzianskya (Drumsticks). EASTERN CAPE specials. Proceed on the road to Mokhotlong winding down into the Sehonghong Valley and along the river Kniphofi a northiae. Don’t miss the wild orchids in The Lady Grey area, rich in fossil beds and rock art, Maclear. The region is also famous for its wild trout, rock offers bird-watching, hiking and fl y-fi shing. Historical and Elliot for a few kilometres – the scenery, plants and birds will reward your time. art, and dinosaur fossils. botanical tours are available. Getting there: Getting there: For more detailed information see the full Getting there: From the N3 at Howick take the R617 Naude’s Nek is on the R396 between From Lesotho take the Tele Bridge border size regional maps on pages 14-21 to Underberg. Travel via Himeville to Sani Pass. In Rhodes and Maclear, off the R56 in the Eastern Cape crossing outside Quthing (Moyeni) to Sterkspruit, and Lesotho, follow the A1 from Botha Bothe via Oxbow to Drakensberg. turn left to Lady Grey. The town is off the R58 between Mokhotlong. Contact: uKhahlamba Tour Guide Association: Aliwal North and Barkly East. Contact: Contact: Underberg Tourism Offi ce: +27 (0)33 701 1471, +27 (0)45 971 9078, www.senqutourism.co.za Lady Grey Tourism: +27 (0)51 603 0176, www.drakensberg.org; Notes: A 4×4 vehicle is recommended, especially after www.ladygreytourism.co.za Mokhotlong MDTP District offi ce: +266 22 920 338 heavy rains. Check road conditions before attempting Notes: The road is rough, but passable to cars except after Notes: Bring your passport. The South African border post Naude’s Nek. rain. opens at 08h00 and closes at 16h00. previous Brunsvigia grandifl ora (Giant candelabra fl ower), Prentjiesberg, Eastern Cape. continued overleaf

80 the maloti drakensberg experience floral splendour 81 left Yellowwood forest at Giant’s Castle, uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site. photo: sp middle Glumicalyx montanus on the Sentinel in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site. This fl ower is endemic to the region. far left Aloe polyphylla, Spiral Aloe at Katse Botanical Gardens, a Lesotho endemic. oral splendour oral key attractions fl

4 the sentinel (northern 5 bokong nature reserve 6 montane forests of the 7 katse botanical gardens drakensberg) (northern lesotho) ukhahlamba drakensberg Most of Lesotho’s major ecosystems are This important area for alpine plants is one of Good examples of Afro-alpine wetlands containing park world heritage site represented in this unique living collection of fl ora. the easiest high-altitude sites to reach. A moderate fi ve- endemic plant species can be found in this high-altitude (kwazulu-natal) Enjoy the beautiful and rare fl owers in fascinating areas hour return walk from the Sentinel Car Park allows you reserve, which reaches an altitude of up to 3 090 m. such as the Rock garden, the Medicinal garden and the to see a myriad of fl owers. Highlights include a large Entirely in the alpine zone, this is one of the highest The Drakensberg montane forests are found at the Aquatic garden. One of the aims here is the conservation of threatened species, with the current focus being on form of Nerine bowdenii, Eucomis bicolor and Galtonia nature reserves in Africa. It is the source of the Bokong mid- to upper elevations of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg the endangered Spiral Aloe ( regalis (endemic) on the basalt cliffs, Crocosmia pearsii, River and Lepaqoa Stream, with its spectacular waterfall Park, and can be easily reached on most of the walks Aloe polyphylla) and Berg a northern Drakensberg endemic, Gladiolus microcarpus, that can be seen from the visitors’ centre. A small in the park. Here you will fi nd lush, cool forests with Bamboo (Thamnocalamus tessellatus). The gardens the Lesotho Carnation Dianthus basuticus and the yellow museum and restaurant round off the visit. trees such as Yellowwood, Mountain Hard Pear, Cape contribute to education, horticulture and income Chestnut, Cape Holly and White Stinkwood. In the generation for local communities. They also propagate Sebaea thomasii. A relatively easy climb up a 30-m long Getting there: From Maseru or Botha Bothe via Leribe, shelter of these forests you can also fi nd small plants medicinal plants and offer support for traditional healers. chain ladder takes you onto the escarpment and into the take the turn-off towards Katse Dam and continue for such as the wild Orange Begonia, the striking purple Getting there: uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site. another 65 km to reach Bokong Nature Reserve at the From Leribe follow the B25 to Ha Lejone, Streptocarpus gardenii, and the orchid Disperis fanniniae. Getting there: From Harrismith, take the R712 to top of the Mafi ka Lisiu Pass. then travel on to Mphorosane, and follow the B31 to Good examples of these forests are found on the walk Phuthaditjhaba. Follow the signs through Phuthaditjhaba, Katse. Contact: Lesotho Northern Parks: +266 22 460 723 up the Tugela Gorge at Royal Natal National Park, and follow a brick paved road, and keep right to the Sentinel Contact: +266 22 910 311 the Rainbow Gorge walk that is accessed from Didima at Car Park. Cathedral Peak. Contact: Sentinel Car Park: +27 (0)58 713 5071 Getting there: All areas can be reached from the N3. Notes: Be prepared for all weather as storms and mist can Southern Drakensberg: take the R617 to Underberg. come up quickly, making conditions dangerous. Central Drakensberg and Northern Drakensberg can be reached via Mooi River and Estcourt or by following signs from the R74 to Winterton and Bergville. Contact: Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife: +27 (0)33 845 1000 for more attractions consult the directory at the back of the book photo: sp

82 the maloti drakensberg experience floral splendour 83 he Maloti Drakensberg region supports an amazing diversity of plants, know your many of them found nowhere else in the world. zones t There is something to be seen everywhere, but it is often the alpine plants of the remote higher altitudes that offer the most rewarding and remark- the montane zone able experiences. These plants are often small, but exquisite. Although rare (1 300 – 1 800 m): in distribution, they can be locally abundant. For example, the Basotho use Warmer, with high rainfall. Lush vegetation includes Helichrysum trilineatum, amongst others, as fuel, collecting large bundles and grasslands of Red Grass transporting it home by donkey. These plants, although endemic to the high and numerous Protea mountain region, are widespread in that habitat. trees, and forests of Interesting plants can be seen at any time of the year, but the peak fl owering Yellowwood and other months are November to February. indigenous trees. the sub-alpine zone fl owers: north and south, high and low (1 800 – 2 800 m): Cooler temperatures. It is worth noting that the types of fl owers you can expect to fi nd at any location depend mainly on two things – the aspect (which way a slope faces) and the Mainly grasslands. No above Helichrysum fl owers forests. Many bulbous altitude (height above sea level). enjoy magical montane forests at Highmoor, uKhahlamba plants fl ower each spring. North-facing slopes are exposed to more direct sunlight, so plants growing Drakensberg Park World Heritage To stumble from a hot grassland walk into a cool forest, in a sheltered the alpine zone there must withstand drier and hotter conditions than plants growing on the Site. gorge or on a south-facing slope, is a dramatic and refreshing experience. (2 800 – 3 482 m): south-facing slopes. Here you will fi nd forests of Yellowwood trees (Podocarpus latifolius, Low rainfall and cold Also, the higher you go, the harsher the climate, resulting in three fl oral zones P. henkelii, P. falcatus), renowned for their fi ne yellow timber. Other trees tips for temperatures. No trees. linked to altitude. The lowest is the montane zone, with grasslands, shrubs and Grass is short and tough. include the Mountain Hard Pear (Olinia emarginata) with bright red berries, forests. Next is the sub-alpine zone, consisting mainly of grasslands, followed conservation Helichrysums and Ericas the Cape Chestnut (Calodendrum capense) with stunning pink fl owers, the by the unforgiving alpine zone at the summit, where only the hardiest of plants and enjoyment are the most common Cape Holly (Ilex mitis) and the White Stinkwood (Celtis africana). can thrive, adapted to strong winds, heat in summer, snow and ice in winter. fl owering plants. There In this sheltered world you will also fi nd small plants such as the wild ■ Stay on the paths – this are numerous remarkable The interplay of aspect and altitude means that two sites with the same Orange Begonia and the striking purple Streptocarpus gardenii, a relative prevents soil erosion and and rare fl owers. altitude, but different aspects, will have different plants; and two sites with the of the African violet, growing on damp rocks, and the little white granny other damage to the envi- same aspect, but different altitudes, will also have different plants. This means ronment. bonnet orchids Disperis fanniniae. you may fi nd a wide variety of species within a relatively small area, simply by ■ Don’t pick fl owers. Leave below Leonotus leonurus (Wild changing altitude or moving horizontally along the mountainside. them for others to enjoy Dagga). appreciate the wonders of the and allow them to produce grasslands seeds. At fi rst the wide expanses of open grassland, beautifully coloured in ■ Don’t trample or damage season, may seem monotonous. But step out of your vehicle and start the plants. walking: within this sea of grass the plant variety is enormous. Throughout ■ Don’t dig up plants or spring and summer different plants come into fl ower. Shorter fl owers like bulbs. This is illegal. the lovely lilac cushions of Barleria monticola emerge in spring when the ■ Invest in a botanical fi eld grass is short, while late summer fl owers are taller in order to compete guide – this will make the with the grass. The high season for orchids is January/February. experience all the more Some of the grasslands are scattered with a variety of Protea species rewarding. such as the widespread Common Sugarbush (Protea caffra) and Silver ■ Take good walking shoes, Sugarbush (Protea roupelliae), forming Protea savannas. a sun-hat, warm clothes and raingear for highly Keep a lookout for brilliant orange or pink Watsonias, magnifi cent changeable weather. Brunsvigias (tumbleweeds) and the delicate dangling pink or purple ■ Take sun-block and fl owers of the Hairbells (Dierama). Deep blue Agapanthus cluster on cool, drinking water. damp rocky slopes and white arum lilies thrive in marshy areas.

84 exploring the maloti drakensberg experiencemountains floral splendour 85 above Hesperantha schelpeana is a Maloti Drakensberg endemic. Oxbow, Lesotho. right Montane forest, KZN. photo: pc opposite page: left Kniphofi a at Sehlabathebe National Park in Lesotho. photo: ak middle Phygelius capensis (Cape fuchsia), high-altitude medicinal herb. photo: ds right (top to bottom) Aponogeton ranunculifl orus. photo: neil crouch; Greyia sutherlandii (Natal Bottlebrush). photo: ew; Helichrysum trilineatum; Disa oreophila.

discover high-altitude treasures Traditionally many plants have medicinal or spiritual uses. In the past, harvesting by discover your roots The most widespread fl owering plants gracing the alpine zone are traditional healers for local use was sustainable, but now large-scale harvesting is Erica (heather) and Helichrysum (everlasting daisies). causing a decline in many species. You may be surprised to see that Spring (September to November) is a good time to see wild The hope of ecotourism, and of community-owned ventures in particular, is some of the wild fl owers look like irises (Moraea spp.), including the large yellow Moraea huttonii that they will contribute to the livelihoods of rural communities, and in so doing, popular European garden fl owers. encourage rural communities to preserve the fl oral asset in their care. The truth is that as far back as the found along streams. In summer, wetlands are lined with glowing Plants may not be collected and removed from the region without a collecting 1600s collectors from Europe have patches of red-hot pokers, including the Lesotho Poker (Kniphofi a permit. Take only photographs. been taking samples of magnifi cent caulescens) – a traditional charm against lightning. southern African fl owers back to The red Suicide Gladiolus (Gladiolus fl anaganii) clings to the Finally, we can grow a love for the beauty and value of our rich fl oral wealth by their horticulturists in Europe for rocky basalt cliffs where it is pollinated by the malachite sunbird, encouraging children to look for the special features of these fl owers, such as their cultivation. Some examples are while the Lesotho lily (Gladiolus saundersii), an alpine endemic, is smell or shape or the fact that they’re not found anywhere else on this planet! Agapanthus, Rhodohypoxis, Gladi- traditionally used as a remedy for diarrhoea. olus and Chincherinchee. The rare Cloud Protea (P. nubigens) is found in a single site at Royal While Natal National Park. The magnifi cent Spiral Aloe (Aloe polyphylla), further information and resources Christmas Bells which is close to extinction due to excessive harvesting, is found (Sandersonia only in Lesotho. You can see them in the Katse Botanic Gardens. ■ Botanical Society of South Africa: +27 (0)33 394 0210 or +27 (0)31 201 5111 aurantiaca) are High-altitude tarns around Sehlabathebe are home to the Sehla- ■ endangered in Wildlife and Environment Society of South Africa: +27 (0)31 201 3126 or +27 (0)33 330 3931 bathebe “water lily” (Aponogeton ranunculifl orus) which is found the wild, they ■ Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife for all nature reserves in the KZN Drakensberg: +27 (0)33 845 1000 here and nowhere else in the world. have been ■ Lesotho Ministry of Tourism Environment and Culture, Maseru: +266 22 313 767 propagated for export. The understand the issues additional reading Streptocarpus ■ Mountain Flowers: A Field Guide to the Flora of the Drakensberg and Lesotho. Pooley, E. 2003. The Flora Sadly, the fl oral wealth of this region is under threat. There are too species, a relative of the African Publications Trust, Durban. violet, is a popular container plant in many domesticated animals to be supported on the present grazing ■ Grasses of the Eastern Free State, Their Description and Uses. Rodney Moffett. 1997. Uniqwa. Europe. land and livestock are being herded into previously untouched ■ Grasses, Sedges, Restiads & Rushes of the Drakensberg. uKhahlamba Series No. 2. Hilliard, O.M. (1996). areas, causing grassland degradation, soil erosion and damage to University of Natal Press. alpine wetlands.

86 the maloti drakensberg experience floral splendour 87 chapter 7 birding

rom majestic raptors to exquisite little thrushes and of micro-habitats – from high-altitude alpine sites pipits, there are over 350 bird species for which the to grassy ridges and forested rivers in the foothills – Maloti Drakensberg is home – some of them found giving rise to a great diversity of birdlife. There is a nowhere else in the world. This spectacular mountain growing network of experienced local bird guides at f region and its dramatic escarpment contain a myriad many key sites who can assist you in finding them.

88 89 right Scientists predict that the critically endangered Bearded Vulture will become extinct within 50 years unless drastic steps are taken to ensure its survival. photo: albert froneman far right The Vulture hide at Giant’s Castle. photo: pc

Harrismith Clarens FREE STATE Bergville Botha Bothe key attractions birding Ficksburg Maseru Katse Mokhotlong 1 sani pass and lesotho 2 giant’s castle game reserve 3 sehlabathebe national park highlands (ukhahlamba drakensberg (lesotho) Sani Pass This route takes you through habitats rising rapidly park – kwazulu-natal) The fi rst national park established in Lesotho is LESOTHO Underberg from 1 600 m to 3 240 m. Along Sani Pass you can The birding in Giant’s Castle Game Reserve, with remote, rugged and beautiful. It is well-known for its see Gurney’s Sugarbird in the protea veld on the birdlife, with high-altitude birds such as Drakensberg Qacha’s Nek over 100 species, is tremendously rewarding, even on Smithfield lower slopes, Buffstreaked Chat, Cape Eagle Owl, short walks. You may see Bearded Vulture, Verreaux`s Siskin, Mountain Pipit, Yellow-breasted Pipit, Orange- KWAZULU- Mountain and Rock Pipits, Bush Blackcap, Barratt’s breasted Rockjumper and Bearded Vulture, and Karoo Ongeluksnek (Black) Eagle, Jackal Buzzard, Lanner Falcon and Cape Quthing NATAL Warbler, Swee Waxbill, Sharp-billed Honeyguide and Griffon (Cape Vulture). Smaller birds include Ground species such as Sickle-wing Chat. Egyptian Vultures have Kokstad Ground Woodpecker. Sought-after species at the top Woodpecker, Yellow Warbler, Broad-tailed Warbler, been seen, as has Rudd’s Lark on rare occasions. Aliwal North include Drakensberg Siskin, Sentinel Rock Thrush, Grassbird, Spotted Prinia and Fairy Flycatcher. Deeper into Getting there: Follow the R56 via Matatiele to Qacha’s Mountain Pipit, Fairy Flycatcher, Mountain Chat and Nek. Continue for two hours on a gravel road. You need EASTERN CAPE the mountains you could see Grey-wing Francolin, Blue Malachite Sunbird. Between Sani Top and Mokhotlong Crane and Yellow-breasted Pipit. Near the top you should a 4×4 vehicle for the last stretch into the park. From is Black Mountain Pass, a Bearded Vulture nesting site. Maseru or Leribe you take the A4 and B46. You can also Elliot see Orange-breasted Rockjumper and Drakensberg Mokhotlong is known for its Bald Ibis breeding colonies Siskin, amongst others. The vulture hide at Giant’s Castle hike the 10 km up the escarpment from Bushman’s Nek For more detailed information see the full in the gorges of the Senqu River. Black Stork and Cape offers spectacular close-up sightings of the vultures and in KwaZulu-Natal. Griffon (Cape Vulture) can also be seen. size regional maps on pages 14-21 buzzards. Contact: Book at Parks Department: +266 22 311 767 Getting there: From the N3 take the R617 to Getting there: From the N3, turn off and pass through Notes: You need a 4×4 vehicle to drive in the park. The Underberg, and via Himeville to Sani Pass. In Lesotho Mooi River, travel another 64 km following the signs to park has self-catering accommodation. Bring your follow the A1 to Mokhotlong. Giant’s Castle. passport when hiking from Bushman’s Nek. Be prepared Contact: Book a birding guide at Underberg Tourism: Contact: Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife – Central Reservations: for all sorts of weather. Thick mist is common in summer. +27 (0)33 701 1471, www.drakensberg.org or +27 (0)33 845 1000. Book the vulture hide with the Mokhotlong +266 22 920 338 camp manager: +27 (0)36 353 3718, Notes: A 4×4 vehicle is essential. You will need your www.kznwildlife.com passport. previous Drakensberg Prinia. photo: th Notes: The hide is very popular and bookings must be made in advance. continued overleaf

90 the maloti drakensberg experience birding 91 right Gurney’s Sugarbird. photo: th middle Plaque at the entrance to Ntsikeni Vlei Nature Reserve. far right An injured Wattled Crane recovers at the Hlatikulu Crane and Wetland Sanctuary. photo: pc

key attractions birding

4 quthing (southern lesotho) 5 bokong nature reserve 6 ntsikeni vlei nature reserve 7 hlatikulu crane and The Upper Quthing Valley supports two “nucleus” (lesotho) (east griqualand, kwazulu- wetland sanctuary breeding colonies of Cape Griffon (Cape Vulture). The Bokong Nature Reserve, in the upper catchment of natal) (kwazulu-natal) Bearded Vulture found here is protected by the Quthing the Bokong River and the Lepaqoa Stream, contains Wildlife Development Trust. Other key species which you Ntsikeni Vlei is a large wetland with an impressive All three species of southern African crane are found alpine wetlands, grasslands and heathlands. It is probably waterfall. Among the birds that can be spotted here here, including the critically endangered Wattled and can see in the area are Bald Ibis, Ground Woodpecker, the most accessible site for birders to see high-altitude Layard’s Warbler, Orange-breasted Rockjumper, Sickle- are Wattled Crane, Cape Griffon and Bearded Vulture, Blue Cranes. You can see African Spoonbill, a wide endemic species such as Drakensberg Siskin, Mountain Yellow-breasted Pipit, African Marsh Harrier, Black Harrier, variety of ducks, three ibis species, Stanley’s Bustard, wing Chat, Mountain Pipit and Drakensberg Siskin. Pipit and Orange-breasted Rockjumper. Other birds seen White-necked Raven, Booted Eagle, Rameron Pigeon and Montagu’s Harrier and the rare Western Marsh Harrier. Cape Griffon and Bearded Vulture, Verreaux`s (Black) in the reserve and its surrounds are Bearded Vulture, This is probably the best site to see the elusive Great Eagle, Lanner Falcon, Great Bittern, African Marsh Harrier, Cape Batis have also been spotted here. Quthing Wildlife Alpine Swift, Lanner Falcon, Ground Woodpecker, Grey- Development Trust with Malealea Lodge offers hikes Bittern. Self-catering family chalets are available. Black Harrier, Secretary Bird and Cape Eagle Owl. wing Falcon, Malachite Sunbird, White-necked Raven, In the grasslands you fi nd Buff-streaked Chat and Striped up to Mount Moorosi and along the Senqu and Quthing Sentinel Rock Thrush, Rock Kestrel and Black Stork. Walks Getting there: The turn-off to Ntsikeni Vlei Nature Rivers. Reserve is on the dirt road between Creighton and Flufftail, and on higher ground Redwing Francolin, Ground to view the Bearded Vultures are available from the Woodpecker, Sentinel Rock Thrush and Cape and Rock Getting there: Quthing (Moyeni) is easily reached by Franklin off the R612. visitors’ centre. You can book guides, short pony trails, Buntings. Malachite Sunbird and Gurney’s Sugarbird are tarred road from Maseru via Mohale’s Hoek, and from Contact: +27 (0)39 833 1029, www.buttonbirding.com and accommodation in rondavels. attracted to the proteas. There are short interpreted trails South Africa via Tele Bridge border crossing. Getting there: From Leribe follow the signs to Katse Dam Notes: The critically endangered Cape Parrot can be seen in on horseback, and a self-catering cottage for fi ve. Contact: Malealea Lodge: +27 (0)51 436 6766, the Xumeni Forest, a protected area which you can visit for 65 km. Bokong Nature Reserve is on the left at the Getting there: From the N3 in KwaZulu-Natal turn off at www.malealea.com with a guide, and from the Marutswa Forest Boardwalk top of Mafi ka Lisiu Pass. Nottingham Road, take the R103 to Rosetta and turn left near Bulwer. Contact: +266 22 460 723 to Kamberg Valley. Follow this road for about 35 km and turn left onto the D11. Contact: +27 (0)33 263 2441, www.enviroed.co.za

for more attractions consult the directory at the back of the book

Drakensberg Siskin photo: th

92 the maloti drakensberg experience birding 93 he range of habitats in the Maloti Drakensberg region ensures a wide variety of birds. There are mountain streams, wetlands, steep grassy t slopes, sandstone cliffs, basalt precipices and buttresses. The conserva- tion laws governing many of the areas in this region seek to protect globally endangered species such as the Bearded Vulture, the Cape Griffon (formerly Cape Vulture) and the Wattled Crane. There are a number of species which are endemic to the region, such as the Orangebreasted Rockjumper, the Draken- sberg Siskin and the Mountain Pipit.

some endangered species in the region globally The much-maligned Bearded Vulture (commonly but mistakenly known endangered as the lammergeier, from the German for “lamb-hunter”) has been persecuted species: to near extinction in North Africa. Although breeding sites are still found in ■ Bearded Vulture the Ethiopian Highlands, the second most important African breeding site for these magnifi cent birds is the Maloti Drakensberg. There are approximately 200 ■ Cape Griffon breeding pairs of Bearded Vultures remaining in the Maloti Drakensberg Moun- ■ Wattled Crane tains and currently none of the breeding sites are in protected areas. The Wattled Crane is a very large, conspicuous bird with a white neck, grey above Mountain Pipit. The Bearded Vulture is primarily a scavenger, but prefers bone marrow critically back and black belly. It has two whitish wattles beneath its chin. Its habitat photo: th over fl esh and will drop bones from great heights onto fl at rocks (known as endangered: ranges from midland to highland wetlands and moist grasslands. These cranes, ossuaries) to shatter them, then extract the marrow or swallow and digest the ■ of which there are only about 70 nesting pairs in South Africa, are severely Cape Parrot pieces. They are easily recognizable in fl ight by the long, narrow wings and endangered due to the loss of their spongy wetland habitats, and deaths caused wedge-shaped tail. The bird’s striking colours – black wings, ferric chest, white- by power line collisions and consumption of poisoned grain left for other problem feathered head and black mask and beard decoration – make it exceptionally animals. They have the slowest reproductive rate of the three South African crane handsome. Legend has it that the rust-coloured feathers on the chest were species. caused by the bird rubbing white feathers against oxidized rocks to smooth and In terms of global conservation, the Cape Griffon (formerly known as the below Cape Griffon. photo: sp condition them. Cape Vulture), a southern African endemic, is also extremely important. Once common in the region, the Cape Griffon has fallen prey to poisoned bait and is regarded as vermin by many farmers, despite the fact that it rarely kills. Its decline is also attributed to electrocution on power lines, and to reduced breeding fun for the success resulting from juvenile mortality. Estimates put the numbers of the Cape family Griffon at between 8 000 and 10 000. About 10-15% of these nest within the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, foraging beyond the borders of the park during Birding is a great family the daytime. Groups roost and nest on precipitous cliffs which are white with activity. Compact fi eld their droppings. They prefer mountainous country or open country with insel- guides are available bergs and escarpments. They are late risers, soaring out between two and three which are easy to use, hours after sunrise. Their tongues are serrated, enabling them to feed rapidly on listing birds endemic the soft tissue of carcasses. to the regions. Let The Cape Parrot lives in and near evergreen mist belt forests along the one of the younger eastern escarpments of the region. They can be seen actively clambering around members of your in search of fruits and berries, or fl ying high overhead in pairs or larger groups group be responsible with their loud screeches resounding between clumps of remaining forest. This for marking off all the is a critically endangered species, primarily due to loss of habitat. Good places to birds identifi ed on your see them include the Marutswa Forest Boardwalk near Bulwer, and the Xumeni trip. Forest near Creighton.

94 the maloti drakensberg experience birding 95 right Drakensberg Rockjumper. photo: th middle Bush Blackcap in its nest. photo: pc far right (top to bottom) Fairy Flycatcher. photo: th; Ground Woodpeckers. photo: th; Sentinel Rock Thrush. photo: th; Eggs of Grey-wing Francolin; Jackal Buzzard. photo: ew

other interesting bird species in the The near-endemic Bush Blackcap is an uncommon resident in the Lesotho when to go region Highlands and the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, with its status listed as near- birding threatened. This small bird (slightly bigger than a sparrow) is jet black from the The Bald Ibis is notable for its naked red-domed crown, with red bill, top of its head to its mantle, with a pale throat and belly. It enjoys evergreen Birding in the higher iris and legs, and glossy green plumage. It enjoys foraging in short grass- mistbelts and montane forests as well as adjacent scrubby hillsides. It is quite an areas is at its best in the lands at mid- to high altitude (especially after burning) and is often found on inquisitive bird, and creeps around the middle layers of the forest edge or low summer months (October overgrazed pastures and cultivated lands. It breeds in communal roosts, the down in the scrub with slow, deliberate movements. Its diet consists largely of to April) when the areas nests precariously perched on ledges against high cliffs such as those in the fruit. are accessible and not Mokhotlong area. The word Mokhotlong means the “place of the Bald Ibis”. Birds in this region which are endemic to southern Africa include Jackal blanketed by snow. Make The Orange-breasted Rockjumper (sometimes called the Draken- Buzzard, Buff-streaked and Sickle-wing Chats, Fairy Flycatcher, Rudd’s Lark, Yellow- sure that you take warm sberg Rockjumper) is found on the steeper rocky slopes and low cliffs of the breasted, Rock and Long-billed Pipits, Gurney’s Sugarbird, Cape and Sentinel Rock clothing and rain gear – region. These birds are often found in pairs or family groups, leaping from Thrushes, Grey-wing Francolin, Ground Woodpecker, Barratt’s Warbler, Spotted there are regular afternoon rock to rock with little wing action, although they do fl y and glide well. They Prinia and Layard’s Tit-babbler. thunderstorms in summer also run fast, sometimes with their tails cocked. If you approach their nest Some other birds of interest in the region are Black-headed Canary, Lanner and the weather can turn or their young, they become very wary and vocal, running to and fro, disap- Falcon, Alpine Swift, Cape Eagle Owl, Yellow-throated Warbler, Verreaux`s (Black) suddenly to freezing mist at pearing and reappearing at different places. Eagle and Half-collared Kingfi sher. any time of the year. The Drakensberg Siskin is a well camoufl aged small bird, endemic to the Drakensberg, which sings all day long. It is found in montane scrub and what to take in Afro-alpine grasslands. Its diet consists mainly of seeds and insects, and it ■ Binoculars forages on the ground amongst rocks and low vegetation, or in bushes and ■ Birding fi eld guide trees. The nest, made of grass and lined with animal hair, is built in a hollow rock or in a bush among rocks. further information and resources ■ Notebook, pencil/pen The endemic and rare Mountain Pipit breeds at altitudes above ■ Birdlife South Africa: www.birdlife.co.za ■ Good walking shoes 2 000 m. It is very similar to the Grassveld Pipit, although somewhat larger. ■ Warm clothing Its habitat is short montane grassland and the eastern slopes of the escarp- additional reading ■ ■ Rain gear ment. The Mountain Pipit has very recently been awarded full status as a Roberts’ Birds of Southern Africa, Austin Roberts, revised by Gordon Lindsay Maclean species, having previously been considered a race of the Grassveld Pipit. ■ Newman’s Birds of Southern Africa, Kenneth Newman

96 the maloti drakensberg experience birding 97 chapter 8 stories in stone

he dramatic escarpment, valley walls and mountain events that built these mountains over 260 million years, and passes of the Maloti Drakensberg reveal layer upon of the life that thrived here: dinosaurs with their eggs; the very layer of rock – successive pages in the geological history first mammals and the trees and ferns that surrounded them. t of this region. Each layer tells us more of the dramatic These mountains abound with treasures etched in stone.

98 99 right Waterfall Cave in the Kamberg section of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site. photo: sp far right The Brandwag rock in the Golden Gate Highlands National Park, formed of Clarens Sandstone. photo: sp

Harrismith Clarens FREE STATE Bergville Botha Bothe key attractions in stone stories Ficksburg Maseru Katse Mokhotlong 1 lets’eng diamond mine 2 golden gate highlands and 3 waterfall cave, ukhahlamba This diamond mine, the highest above sea level in qwaqwa national parks drakensberg park world Sani Pass the world, produces diamonds of exquisite beauty and (north-eastern free state) heritage site LESOTHO Underberg quality. The cretaceous diamond pipe (70 million years old) is one of many in Lesotho. You can enjoy a guided These two parks boast some of the most important fi nds Fossilized plants can be seen in the light stones of Qacha’s Nek tour to view the kimberlite pipe where a privately run of dinosaur remains in the world. With a guide you can Waterfall Cave at Kamberg section of the UDPWHS. This Smithfield explore the famous site where fossilized Massospondylus is one of relatively few sites where trained community KWAZULU- concern earns royalties for the government of Lesotho. Ongeluksnek eggs were discovered in 1978 – the oldest known custodians are available to show the fossils to visitors. Quthing NATAL The mine also boasts a nature reserve with exquisite fl owers. dinosaur eggs with embryos. You can also see dinosaur The cave can be seen en route to the spectacular Game Kokstad footprints, fossilized ferns and the fossilized burrows of Pass Shelter, one of the top rock art sites in the world. Aliwal North Accommodation is available at a fully-catered community-based lodge administered by the Lets’eng the world’s oldest mammal-like reptiles. The impressive Getting there: From Nottingham Road or Rosetta, near EASTERN CAPE Diamond Company. A guided 4×4 trail and fl y-fi shing Brandwag rock is the best-known view of the golden Mooi River, follow the signs to Kamberg. Clarens Sandstone cliffs which abound throughout the in the Khubelu River are added attractions in this Contact: Kamberg Rock Art Centre: +27 (0)33 267 7282 Elliot Northern Lesotho paradise. Golden Gate and QwaQwa Parks. Hikes and motor trails enable you to explore the area on foot or by car. Notes: The centre is open seven days a week, but you Getting there: Enter Lesotho at Caledonspoort Border For more detailed information see the full must phone ahead to book a guide. Post and follow the Botha Bothe road towards Getting there: From Harrismith take the N5, then the size regional maps on pages 14-21 Mokhotlong, past the Oxbow Lodge and Mahlasela Ski R74 towards Bergville. Follow the R712 to Clarens – it Resort. will take you right through the National Park. From Bethlehem drive via Clarens along the R711 and the Contact: Manager of Lets’eng Diamond Mine, Ntate R712. Moruti Mphatsoe: +266 62 776 288 Dr Gideon Groenewald, Community Facilitator: Contact: Golden Gate Highlands National Park; QwaQwa +27 (0)82 829 4978 National Park: +27 (0)58 255 0012 previous Massospondylus embryo from the clutch of For tours: Dr Gideon Groenewald: +27 (0)82 829 4978 fossilized eggs discovered in the Golden Gate Highlands Notes: Visits to fossil sites must be undertaken with a National Park. source: bernard price institute of palaeontological guide. research, university of the witwatersrand; photo: diane scott continued overleaf

100 the maloti drakensberg experience stories in stone 101 right Moteng Pass in eastern Lesotho provides the opportunity to see the many rock layers making up the region. photo: gg far right Maletsunyane Falls. photo: ds

key attractions in stone stories

4 quthing dinosaur trackway 5 barkly pass (north-eastern 6 moteng pass – botha bothe 7 maletsunyane falls site cape) to oxbow (lesotho) An impressive collection of dinosaur tracks can The Barkly Pass between Elliot and Barkly East The Moteng Mountain Pass is a gateway to the When the supercontinent of Gondwanaland be found at Quthing, in Lesotho. The tracks are very represents one of the most complete sections through northern alpine region in Lesotho. The route passes broke apart approximately 180 million years ago, the obviously those of a bird-foot dinosaur, most probably the geology of the Upper Karoo Sequence. The pass cuts through some of the most pristine vegetation zones in consequent volcanic eruptions deposited thick layers of Massospondylus, known from Golden Gate in South through the coarse-grained sandstones of the Molteno the Lesotho Highlands, whilst also cutting through all the liquid basalt over southern Africa. Although much of this Africa and Mount Moorosi in Lesotho. There is an Formation, the red mudstone-rich Elliot Formation, and signifi cant geological layers. has been weathered away, most of Lesotho still stands interpretive centre open to the public. Guides are being the prominent creamy-coloured sandstone known as This high mountain pass is well worth the visit for on this layer of basaltic rock. The Maletsunyane Falls trained, but visitors are presently required to do their the Clarens Formation. One of the most exciting fi nds in its unique geological features, as well as beautiful are a spectacular cut-back into this very thick lava layer, own guiding. this formation is that of very small bivalves that were views towards the lowlands of Lesotho and the vistas and provide unique insight into the various levels of Getting there: Travel on the main highway from Maseru probably blown from South America during the Jurassic of the Eastern Free State. Of particular interest is the basaltic deposits. This waterfall, which is situated near to Quthing. Be on the lookout for a prominent sandstone period (140-200 million years ago). About halfway up red siltstone of the Elliot Formation, creamy coloured the Semonkong Lodge in Lesotho, is the second highest building, situated on the sandstone outcrops some the pass is one of the most exciting exposures of a sandstone of the Clarens Formation and the spectacular waterfall in southern Africa, with a straight vertical drop kilometres west of Quthing. dolerite dyke in South Africa, which produces a constant Lesotho Formation laval outcrops, including a well of 196 m. stream of clear drinking water to travellers on the pass. defi ned pillow lava deposit. Contact: Dr Gideon Groenewald, Dinosaur Fossil Hunting Getting there: From the Maseru-Mafeteng road take The top of Barkly Pass enters the new world of the Expeditions: +27 (0)82 829 4978 Getting there: Enter Lesotho at the Caledonspoort border the turn-off to Roma. Continue through Roma and keep Drakensberg Lava Formation, with amygdales and quartz Lesotho Tourism Development Corporation: Information post and drive through Botha Bothe. Moteng Pass is going for a further 18 km. At the T-junction turn left and crystals, pillow lavas and other unique and exciting Offi ce: +266 22 312 427 about 30 km from Botha Bothe on the way to Oxbow travel along this dirt road for approximately 65 km to geological features. and is an easy drive from South Africa. reach Semonkong. Notes: Fossil remains are protected by law. Do not attempt Getting there: Drive from Barkly East to Elliot on the R58. to remove any of the traces in this museum. It is Notes: Moteng Pass is a landmark pass in Lesotho and the Contact: Semonkong Lodge: +266 27 006 037; advisable to inform the chief of the village of your visit Contact: Barkly East Community Tourism Association (PRO): environment is very rural. Greet the local people with www.placeofsmoke.co.ls and acknowledge any offer for guiding from the local Joey Jordaan: +27 (0)82 900 8362 dignity and respect. community. for more attractions consult the directory at the back of the book

102 the maloti drakensberg experience stories in stone 103 s you travel up the mountain passes in this dramatic landscape, rising from the river valleys to the high peaks, you pass through a succession of a very distinct layers in the rock. The impressive Drakensberg escarpment and the deep gorges of Lesotho expose these rock layers. In so doing they reveal fossils of the numerous plants, reptiles (including a number of dinosaur species) and mammals that lived here, and the traces that they left behind.

why was this region so full of life? To help us understand what this region was like so long ago, geologists encourage us to look for similar landscapes in our present world. The eastern part of present- day southern Africa was once largely covered by giant marshes. Sediments settled there over many millions of years, forming the rocks of the Beaufort Group. The continents then were not separate as they are now, but still joined together as a vast landmass called Gondwanaland. At that time the area where the Maloti Drakensberg Mountains now stand was very far from the sea. This area would have been very dry had it not been for the presence of huge snow-covered mountains in the south and east of Gondwanaland.

The melt-water from these mountains fed the huge inland marshes, sustaining above The basalt cliffs Rock layer formations plant and animal life over a period of approximately 60 million years. The fossil of the Amphitheatre are evidence of this is abundant. There are numerous places where dinosaurs and seen towering beyond a cliff of Clarens sandstone. The mountains are capped by the very thick basaltic lava other animals walked across mudfl ats and left their footprints. Where marshes Most of its surface has of the Drakensberg/Lesotho Formation. This volcanic rock was dried up, as they did from time to time, the remains of literally thousands of crea- been darkened by water formed from magma which erupted from huge cracks in the tures were buried in the mud and turned into the fossils that we now discover running down it over the

Basalt earth’s crust 180-135 million years ago, when Gondwanaland in the mudstones. years. photo: sp was breaking up. The region would have looked like this modern-day volcanic lava fl ow. what fossils can be seen? bruno bambas/panapress/africanpictures.net The fossils of two reptiles, Dicynodont and Lystrosaurus, occur repeatedly in the Beneath the basalt is the thick cream-coloured Clarens Beaufort rocks. Their presence in these sediments tells of widespread marshy Sandstone. This was deposited as extensive sand dunes conditions. Trirachodon, a mammal-like reptile, survived harsh conditions by over a very dry period, about 190-180 million years ago. burrowing. The remains of these burrows were preserved in the red rocks of the

Clarens Sandstone Clarens upper Beaufort Group. Above this, in the Molteno Formation, fossilized ferns are found. Around 200 million years ago the water supply from the mountains dimin-

Elliot Beneath the Clarens Sandstone lie three distinct layers karin duthie/panapress/africanpictures.net ished and the region became far less hospitable. Silt was still carried down the of sandstones and mudstones, formed from gravel rivers into the marshes, but there was much less water – resulting in the red rocks and mud deposited in vast marshes over a long of the Elliot Formation. As the climate became drier still, the whole area was period from about 260-190 million years ago: Molteno covered by sand dunes, still visible today in the yellow sandstone of the Clarens Elliot Formation: red-orange mudstones Formation. The fossil record shows, however, that many animals still inhabited Molteno Formation: glittering sandstones, the region, including two dinosaurs, Massospondylus and Lesothosaurus. rich in fossil ferns Fossils of Massospondylus have been found throughout the region. This was Beaufort Group: green and grey a bird-like reptile approximately six metres long which lived near water and laid

mudstones, topped with red mudstones. karin duthie/panapress/africanpictures.net

Beaufort Group Beaufort eggs in the sand – much as crocodiles do today. One of the most dramatic fossil

104 the maloti drakensberg experience stories in stone 105 right Fossil leaves of Dicroidium and Ginkgoites. photo: c s macrae middle Reconstruction of Massospondylus embryo ready to emerge from its egg. illustrator: kevin dupuis far right (top to bottom) Dicroidium fossil. photo: sp; Dinosaur bone fossils in Golden Gate Highlands National Park. photo: gg; Fossilized dinosaur footprints in mudstone near Quthing. photo: ds

fi nds was a cluster of six eggs found in the Golden Gate Highlands National Park in the Golden Gate area, where the dolerite has been exposed by the by Professor James Kitching in 1978. Just as the Massospondylus babies were weathering of the surrounding rock. It is interesting that the Lets’eng la about to hatch they must have been buried by a sandstorm. They are believed to Terai diamond pipe erupted only about 75 million years ago, thus indi- be the oldest known fossilized embryos in the world. cating the continuation of intermittent volcanic activity. Lesothosaurus, a small meat-eating dinosaur, was better adapted to this By 135 million years ago, due to plate tectonics and continental drift, desert. Its fossilized remains are known mostly from Lesotho. Also living in the Antarctica and India had split from Africa. A very high escarpment was region throughout this period was a shrew-like creature, Megazostrodon, consid- formed where the African coastline is today. Ever since then the escarp- ered one of the earliest mammals. Its burrows and fossilized remains are found ment has been weathered by the relentless effects of sun, rain and occasionally in the Elliot and Clarens rocks. snow, which have eroded it back to where the Drakensberg escarpment is now, far inland. This process continues to this day, causing the edge of the escarpment to recede about 3 cm every 100 years. The same the formation of the maloti and weathering forces continue to carve the myriad valleys of Lesotho ever Conservation legisla- drakensberg mountains tion in both South deeper into the rock. Africa and Lesotho About 180 million years ago a new era began. The supercontinent of Gondwa- contains restric- naland began to break apart. Molten magma from beneath the earth’s crust tions governing the erupted through fi ssures stretching for hundreds of kilometres across southern study and collection Africa. These eruptions continued intermittently over 45 million years, layer upon of fossils. There are further information and resources layer of liquid basalt oozing out and covering the surrounding earth. The erup- serious penalties tions ended 135 million years ago, leaving a layer of basalt up to 3 km thick for tampering with ■ Tours to fossil sites – Dr Gideon Groenewald: +27 (0)82 829 4978 fossil sites, and covering much of what is now southern Africa. After the weathering which has ■ Bernard Price Institute of Palaeontological Research, University of the Witwatersrand: +27 (0)11 717 6682 visits should only be taken place through all the millenia since then, the thickest layers remain now undertaken with a as the high mountain land of Lesotho. additional reading certifi ed guide. Report In places the magma forced its way through cracks and between layers of the ■ The Story of Earth and Life, by T. McCarthy and B. Rubidge fossil fi nds to local sedimentary rock, but solidifi ed before it reached the surface. These vertical and ■ Life Etched in Stone, by C. MacRae museums or conser- horizontal intrusions of hard dolerite rock are known as dykes and sills. Some ■ Geological Journeys, by N. Norman and G. Whitfi eld vation agencies. very good examples can be seen in the Impendle area of KwaZulu-Natal, and

106 the maloti drakensberg experience stories in stone 107 chapter 9 engineering exploits

tanding among these mountains, we are overwhelmed by their ever-increasing needs for water, power, land and trade. sheer scale and power. For the longest time the mountains shaped The engineering exploits of this region tell stories of human the lives of the people who lived here – but in recent history endeavour in the face of great odds – but they also stand as s people have begun to shape the mountains – to meet humanity’s a stark reminder of humanity’s ability to create or destroy.

108 109 right Part of the hydropower system at ‘Muela. photo: ds far right Katse Dam as viewed from the tourist information centre.

Harrismith Clarens FREE STATE Bergville Botha Bothe key attractions engineering Ficksburg Maseru Katse Mokhotlong 1 katse dam 2 ‘muela dam and power 3 mohale dam The Katse Dam boasts an elegant 185 metre-high station The Mohale Dam is the highest rock-fi ll dam in Africa, Sani Pass double-curvature concrete arch wall with a crest With a double-curvature concrete arch construction with a wall which is 145 m high, 620 m along the LESOTHO Underberg 710 m long. It has a storage capacity of 1 950 million 55 m high, and with a storage capacity of 6 million cubic crest, and holds 958 million cubic metres. It is the cubic metres and is one of the ten largest concrete metres, the ‘Muela Dam is a must-see for visitors to tunnel connecting the Mohale and Katse dams – 31 km Qacha’s Nek arch dams in the world. It is little wonder that this long and 3,4 m in diameter – that makes this site well Smithfield this area, especially since there is the added attraction KWAZULU- magnifi cent structure confi dently lays claim to being of dinosaur footprints and San paintings in the region. worth visiting. This tunnel is unusual in that it operates Ongeluksnek Quthing NATAL both the heart and focal point of the Lesotho Highlands The ‘Muela Hydropower Project, which is driven by as an automatic pressure tunnel, allowing water to Water Project. Guided tours of the wall of the dam can water from the ‘Muela Dam, generates 72 MW of fl ow to Katse to augment the level of the Katse Dam. Kokstad be arranged at the information centre. Katse Lodge Accommodation is available at Mohale Lodge and a Aliwal North electrical power. During the summer months this is offers accommodation and spectacular views of the suffi cient power not only to meet Lesotho’s national “high-altitude training facility” is soon to be opened. EASTERN CAPE dam. energy requirements, but also for export to South Africa. Getting there: Take the A1 south from Maseru to the Getting there: From Maseru follow the A1 to Leribe, Tours of the underground powerhouse that drives this Roma-Mohale intersection. Turn left and follow the road Elliot then follow the signs for 122 km past Pitseng and Ha hydroelectric power station can be arranged at the over the Bushman’s, Molimo Nthuse and Blue Mountain Lejone to Katse Dam. Katse Village is on your right, Passes to Mohale Village. Drive past the village to the For more detailed information see the full Information Centre. past the dam wall. Operations Building. size regional maps on pages 14-21 Getting there: Take the tarred road from Botha Bothe Contact: Visitors’ Information Centre: +266 22 910 377; towards Mokhotlong and drive for approximately Contact: Visitors’ Information Centre: +266 22 936 217; www.lhwp.org.ls; Katse Lodge: +266 22 910 202 30 km. Turn right at the junction to ‘Muela. The www.lhwp.org.ls; Mohale Lodge: +266 22 936 432 Operations Building is on the right-hand side of the road Notes: Tours should be booked in advance. The LHDA against the hillside. facilities were designed to be used as tourism Contact: Visitors’ Information Centre: +266 22 481 212/21 accommodation. previous Mohale Dam wall is most simply described as a huge pile of crushed rock, the upstream side of which is coated with concrete. photo: ds continued overleaf

110 the maloti drakensberg experience engineering exploits 111 right Steep zigzags in the top section of the Sani Pass. photo: ak far right Sterkfontein Dam adjoins the Driekloof Dam, which forms the upper reservoir of the Drakensberg Pumped Storage Scheme. photo: sp

key attractions engineering

4 ash river outfall 5 drakensberg pumped 6 ma fi ka lisiu pass and 7 sani pass Huge volumes of water pour into the Ash River storage scheme malibamatso bridge This spectacular pass is the only direct road route watercourse from Katse, via the ‘Muela Hydropower If you are interested in hydropower, the This high-altitude pass (3 090 m) was built as part of through the Drakensberg between KwaZulu-Natal and Station. This caused serious soil erosion problems Drakensberg Pumped Storage Scheme is a fascinating the Lesotho Highlands Water Project to provide access Lesotho. It provides exhilarating views, and culminates downstream between Clarens and Bethlehem in the facility to visit. This scheme is unique in that the for the construction of Katse Dam. There are 204 major in a summit which is 2 865 m above sea level. Sani Pass eastern Free State. The Ash River Outfall was developed hydroelectric power station has been built inside the bends on this 53-km stretch of road which was built was once only a rough bridle path for Basotho ponies as a solution to this problem. This consists of a concrete mountain. Water from the Kilburn Dam in the Tukhela between 1987 and 1991 at a cost of about R3 million per carrying provisions. It was fi rst ascended by a vehicle in channel with an uphill gradient, which decreases the rate catchment area is pumped up more than 470 metres kilometre. This route is of interest from an engineering 1948, when a former World War 2 Royal Air Force pilot, of the water fl ow by forcing it uphill. In addition, a series during off-peak hours into the high-altitude Driekloof point of view as it has received a construction award Godfrey Edmonds, negotiated it in his Willy’s Jeep. In of weirs has been constructed downstream of the outfall Dam, which adjoins the Sterkfontein Dam. At peak from the SA Institute of Civil Engineers. Most fascinating 1955 David Alexander founded the Mokhotlong Mountain to further reduce the energy and fl ow rate of the water. demand hours, the water is allowed to fl ow back down, is the 465 m-long Malibamatso Bridge, which is built Transport Company which arranged tours into Lesotho via The increased water fl ow in the Ash River resulting from driving turbines that generate up to 1 000 MW of over a deep water-fi lled valley, 86 m below, about this pass. This company is still operating today under the the Lesotho Highlands Water Project has made it an electrical power. The visitors’ centre offers a photographic halfway up the Malibamatso leg of the Katse Dam. This name Sani Pass Tours. exciting destination for white-water kayaking. exhibition, a presentation and slide show, and a tour of bridge received the Fulton Award from the Concrete Getting there: From the N3 take the R617 to Underberg, Getting there: 9 km outside Clarens on the tarred road to the power station. Society of Southern Africa. The Visitors’ Information turn right to Himeville and follow the signs to Sani Pass. Bethlehem, turn left at the LHWP sign. The road leads to Getting there: From Harrismith: Take the N5 towards Centre at Katse Dam can provide you with further In Lesotho follow the A1 to Sani Pass via Mokhotlong. the visitors’ parking. Bloemfontein, turn off onto the R74 and follow it information. Contact: Sani Pass Tours +27 (0)33 701 1064; Contact: Guided tour: contact TCTA offi ce in Caledon: towards Bergville. The visitors’ centre is at the bottom Getting there: Follow the A8 from Hlotse (Leribe) to www.sanitours.co.za +27 (0)76 989 9329 of Oliviershoek Pass. Coming from Estcourt: From the N3 Katse. This route takes you over the Mafi ka Lisiu Pass and Notes: A 4×4 vehicle is essential. You will need your turn onto the R74 towards Winterton and carry on past the Malibamatso Bridge. passport. Bergville. Contact: Visitors’ Information Centre: +266 22 910 377; Contact: Visitors’ Centre: +27 (0)36 438 6046 www.lhwp.org.ls Notes: The visitors’ centre is closed on weekends and public holidays. for more attractions consult the directory at the back of the book

112 the maloti drakensberg experience engineering exploits 113 right The Malibamatso he village of Mokhotlong, high in the Eastern Highlands of Lesotho, was Bridge can be seen behind once referred to by the British as the “remotest outpost of the colonial the intake tower, seen when service”. It was reached by the British using horses and mules, following construction was almost t complete. The tower feeds the route of the now world-famous Sani Pass. The story of its construction is water into the transfer wonderfully told by David Alexander in his book “Sani Pass – Riding the Dragon”. tunnel to ‘Muela. He recalls the moment when the fi rst vehicle topped the pass – an ordeal that All the buildings in the involved many people and “plenty of rope”. While the road has developed since valley have now been those early days, Sani is still an exhilaratingly rugged pass, sometimes closed covered by the waters of Katse Dam. during winter due to snowfalls. Going up the pass requires the use of 4-wheel photo: dj – circa 1990 drive vehicles. The road link is an important one, especially for the Basotho, who come into South Africa to repair the road when parts of the pass are washed away by heavy rains

water for export While trade spurred on the development of Sani Pass, there was another commodity that gave rise to massive investment and infrastructure – water! what is the lhwp? Southern Africa is on average a dry region, with most of its rain falling over the “largest a relatively small land area. The Maloti Drakensberg Mountains are one of just The Lesotho Highlands Water Project makes use of the rivers and catchment water areas of the Lesotho Highlands to deliver high quality water into two massive four areas where rainfall signifi cantly exceeds evaporation. For a long time transfer Gauteng, the industrial centre of southern Africa, has been unable to meet reservoirs – Katse Dam, which holds 1 950 million cubic metres of water, and Mohale Dam, holding 950 million cubic metres. Water from these dams is deliv- project in its demand for water from its own rivers and has relied on water transfers africa” from rivers and dams in other areas. In 1986 a treaty was signed between ered into the South African water distribution system. This water earns royalties for Lesotho and generates hydropower at the ‘Muela Power Station. the governments of South Africa and Lesotho paving the way for the Lesotho The advent of the Highlands Water Project. This would allow Lesotho to export its water to South Lesotho Highlands below Sani Pass in winter. Africa. The Maloti Drakensberg region presently supplies approximately 50 per roads Water Project (LHWP) photo: sp cent of Gauteng’s water. Before work could begin on the dams it was necessary to build the roads and brought about a other facilities that would be required for the construction activities. Lesotho fl urry of activity and would benefi t from these new roads, which could be paid off over time with the investment in Lesotho. revenues derived from selling the water. To date the project The challenge in building the access roads was not only the ruggedness and has constructed three remoteness of the terrain, but also sensitivities regarding community-owned land major dams, built and through which the roads were planned. On numerous occasions the proposed upgraded more than route was changed to accommodate community wishes. 200 km of roads and The Mafi ka Lisiu Pass is a dramatic section of access road. This road crosses mountain passes, and Katse Dam about halfway up its length via the famous Malibamatso Bridge. This opened up the central bridge, soaring 86 metres above the valley fl oor when it was built, now passes region of Lesotho – just above the waters of Katse Dam. both for tourism and for the development of the area. dams The LHWP comprises 3 major dams and a large weir (the Matsoku Weir). Katse Dam is by far the largest, built in the valley of the Malibamatso River just below its confl uence with the Bokong River. The massive dam wall is built of 2¼ million cubic metres of reinforced concrete, laid between 1993 and 1997.

114 exploring the maloti drakensberg experiencemountains engineering exploits 115 right The mighty Katse Dam wall holds back the Malibamatso and Bokong Rivers. The Bokong River fl ows in from the left. photo: ds middle Dwellings on the steep slopes above Katse Dam. photo: br far right The Ash River Outfall slows down the water as it exits the transfer tunnel from ‘Muela. photo: ds

tunnels Mohale Dam is a rock-fi ll dam with a concrete lining on the upstream side However, many people were removed from their homes and land to make way the of the wall. It is connected to Katse Dam by a 31 km tunnel which allows for the dams. This has left people feeling destitute and hopeless, and some feel challenge of A major part of the project water to fl ow from Mohale to Katse. The ‘Muela Hydropower Station, fed that compensation has been inadequate and delayed. The Lesotho Highlands development was the construction of the from Katse Dam, empties into the ‘Muela “tailpond” dam, a reservoir which Development Authority is challenged with the ongoing development needed in and transfer and delivery tunnels. holds the water before it fi nally fl ows into the Ash River in South Africa. the affected communities. Local people who worked on the project need training conservation Most of the tunnelling was to apply these skills elsewhere. Income-generating development initiatives are done using giant tunnel-boring power stations being pursued and the LHDA provides training in sustainable agriculture. The challenge for every machines capable of boring engineering project is A magnifi cent feature of high dams is the potential they have to generate a 5 m diameter hole through to balance the social electricity. When released in a controlled manner the energy of a large environmental impact solid rock at up to 1,3 km benefi ts against the body of water can be used to drive large turbines which turn electricity The fl ooding of valleys to create huge dams had obvious environmental impacts. per month. The tunnels were social and environmental generators. ‘Muela’s hydro-electric power station has three turbines which As part of its compensation to Lesotho, the LHWP has funded the development lined with reinforced concrete impacts. No develop- together generate 72 MW of power. This is almost enough power to meet of a number of conservation areas: Katse Botanical Gardens, Bokong Nature to prevent collapse. The inlet ment is possible without Lesotho’s electricity demand year-round – and in summer months more Reserve, Ts’ehlanyane National Park and ‘Muela Reserve, as well as the Lipho- tower at Katse Dam (visible some impact. Informed than enough, allowing the extra power to be exported. fung Cave and Cultural Historic Site. from the Malibamatso Bridge) and creative planning In addition to the LHWP, South Africa’s water and electrical power needs The Maloti Drakensberg region forms a key water catchment area, and good feeds clean water into the can minimize negative are boosted by Sterkfontein Dam and the Drakensberg Pumped Storage vegetation cover is important in trapping and slowly releasing the rainwater. 45 km tunnel to ‘Muela power impacts and secure the Scheme. Water at the top of the escarpment is used to generate power Local communities must be empowered to take responsibility for and maintain station at a rate of about long-term conservation of as it fl ows down to a holding dam at the bottom. When there is spare the integrity of the catchment area. This involves training people in land care and 39 million cubic metres per the environment. capacity on the power grid, this is used to pump the water up again. The effective farming methods, and developing awareness of environmental threats month. system can be thought of as a rechargeable battery for storing excess such as pollution and soil erosion. electrical power. further information and resources impact on the people ■ The LHWP has, as one of its goals, to “promote the general development of Lesotho Highlands Development Authority (LHDA): +266 22 311 280, www.lhwp.org.ls; the remote and underdeveloped mountain regions of Lesotho”. Improved Public Relations Division: +266 22 312 442 roads and infrastructure have provided many people with better transport, additional reading education and health facilities. In addition, tourism has been given a major ■ Sani Pass – Riding the Dragon, David Alexander boost. The project has undoubtedly been of huge benefi t to Lesotho’s source: trans caledon tunnel ■ The Saga of the Sani Pass and Mokhotlong, Mike Clark authority economy.

116 the maloti drakensberg experience engineering exploits 117 chapter 10 adventure tourism

he sheer ruggedness of the Maloti Drakensberg attracts The adventures and challenges offered by rock, water, a special type of adventurer. They need to test their ice and air, together with the elation you feel in this own limits – of skill, experience, strength, endurance magnificent scenery, enable your spirit to reconnect with t and nerve – against the extreme demands of this the wildness of nature – and allow you to return to your beautiful but challenging mountain wilderness. home and workplace refreshed and invigorated.

118 119 right Ice-climbing requires the right equipment, and lots of determination. photo: gareth frost far right The highest commercial abseil in the world at Maletsunyane Falls, Semonkong. photo: ds

Harrismith Clarens FREE STATE Bergville Botha Bothe key attractions adventure Ficksburg Maseru Katse Mokhotlong 1 abseiling – maletsunyane 2 rock-climbing – 3 ice-climbing – giant’s castle falls (southern lesotho) ukhahlamba drakensberg area (kwazulu-natal) Sani Pass Lesotho holds the Guinness record for the park (kwazulu-natal) Climbs are generally accessed from the top of Giant’s LESOTHO Underberg highest commercial abseil in the world, at 204 The following are just a few sites selected from the very Castle and reached by either abseiling or scrambling metres – defi nitely not for the faint of heart – situated down to the beginning of the icefall. The top of Makaza Qacha’s Nek many available all over the Drakensberg. Smithfield in the gorge of the Maletsunyane Falls. The abseil is is the normal base camp. Grades are explained on page KWAZULU- organized by Semonkong Lodge, who provide initial Sentinel Peak North Face Route: This peak is 125. Ongeluksnek Quthing NATAL 3 166 m in altitude. The North Face Route is 6 pitches training, as well as transport to the top of the falls. Eastern Gully long and carries a grade of 14 (UK 4a, US 5.7). Grade: II, 2: It takes 6 hours from Giant’s Kokstad Maletsunyane Falls is the highest single-drop waterfall Hut to the summit. Be cautious of a small waterfall at the Aliwal North in southern Africa, and is a hike of 1½ hours from Sentinel Peak Standard Route: An easy climb, often used as an introduction to Drakensberg climbing beginning which can be awkward. Semonkong. There is a camp site at the bottom of Makaza Grade: III, WI 4: A long icefall in a series of drops EASTERN CAPE the gorge. The falls are at their most spectacular in for beginners. It consists of one pitch followed by scrambling. totalling 300 m running over the south escarpment edge summer. of Giant’s Castle. Time: 4 hours of actual climbing. Elliot Monk’s Cowl Standard Route: Another classic climb Getting there: Main Event From the Maseru-Mafeteng road take on a major free-standing peak (3 234 m). The hardest Grade: III, WI 4: From the top of Giant’s For more detailed information see the full the turn-off to Roma. Continue through Roma and keep pitch is grade 16 (approx. UK 4c, US 5,8). A six-hour hike Pass, walk straight south to the escarpment edge and size regional maps on pages 14-21 going for a further 18 km. At the T-junction turn left gets to the campsite (day 1). The climb takes place the a few hundred metres west. This huge 150 m icefall and travel along this dirt road for approximately 65 km next day and then a third day is spent walking out. Best has several possible climbable lines. Abseil to the start. to reach Semonkong. climbed during the months April to October. Belays at the top are hard to fi nd. Some grass pitons can Notes: be useful. Time: 3 hours of actual climbing. Booking is essential. Getting there: Sentinel – From Harrismith, take the R712 Getting there: Contact: Semonkong Lodge: +266 27 006 037; to Phuthaditjhaba and follow the signs to the Sentinel From the N3 take the Mooi River turn-off. www.placeofsmoke.co.ls Car Park. Monk’s Cowl – From the N3 take the R74 to From the town follow the signs to Giant’s Castle. Winterton, then the R600 to the Central Drakensberg. Contact: Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife: +27 (0)33 845 1000, Follow the signs to Monk’s Cowl. www.kznwildlife.com; Mountain Club of South Africa: previous Paddling the rivers of the Drakensberg. Contact: Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife: +27 (0)33 845 1000; www.mcsa.org.za photo: pc www.kznwildlife.com; ClimbZA: www.climb.co.za; Mountain Club of South Africa: www.mcsa.org.za continued overleaf

120 the maloti drakensberg experience adventure tourism 121 right Mountain biking in the foothills of the KwaZulu-Natal Drakensberg. photo: ew far right A well-earned rest at the top of Sani Pass. photo: ak

key attractions adventure

4 skiing – tiffi ndell ski resort 5 water adventures – lesotho- 6 4×4 and quad trails (central 7 mountain biking – trading (north-eastern cape) durham link (maseru) lesotho and drakensberg) post guest house and Situated at high altitude on the south-facing slopes The Lesotho-Durham Link is a community Baboon’s Pass between Ramabanta and Semonkong. ramabanta lodge (lesotho) of Ben McDhui, the resort experiences snowfalls and development NGO. A number of water sports, such as This challenging tour has been described as a “mud, The Trading Post Guest House in Roma and the low temperatures in winter. There are snow machines to canoeing, sailing and wind-surfi ng, are on offer at the sweat and tears” expedition. Ramabanta Lodge, situated 40 km further on, offer ensure that visitors can ski throughout the winter months Lesotho-Durham Link campsite on the banks of the Contact: Ramabanta Lodge: +266 22 340 202 numerous mountain biking trails in the region. These – in fact, they guarantee 100 days of snow per season. Maqalika Dam in Maseru. Additional activities such as Sani Pass between Himeville in South Africa and Sani Top trails take you through spectacular, rugged terrain, and The main slope is about 1 km long. The slopes cater for abseiling, rock-climbing and archery are available. The in Lesotho. This is a fairly challenging 4×4 route which into traditional rural villages. You will have a trained about 300 skiers per day. After good snowfalls guests project also offers river trips down the Senqu (Orange) reaches the top of the Drakensberg escarpment at guide from the local community, and you have the can ski off-piste for up to 1,5 km. Snowboarding is also River in open Canadian canoes, either from Mokhotlong 2 873 m. This is one of the only points where the high option of over-nighting in local villages, where you can a popular activity. Lessons are available for beginners. to Thaba Tseka, or from Qacha’s Nek to Mount Moorosi. Drakensberg can be directly accessed by vehicle. This experience Basotho culture fi rst-hand. In this way you Equipment can be hired at the resort and there is also a The Senqu trip is particularly exciting for its white-water route was originally developed as a trade route with can contribute to the economy of the local communities. child-minding service. rapids. Mokhotlong. Getting there: Trading Post: From Maseru take the Main Getting there: From Barkly East head towards Rhodes, Getting there: From Moshoeshoe Road in Maseru turn Ramatseliso’s Gate border post is reached from South Road and turn left onto the A3 to Roma. After and from there follow the signs northward to Tiffi ndell. into Old Airport Road, then left into Agric Road. The Matatiele by a road which is best tackled in a 4×4 15 km look for the signs to the Trading Post. There is a landing strip just 25 km from the resort if you turning to Lesotho-Durham Link is on the right, and is and takes you high into the southern Drakensberg. On Ramabanta Lodge: From Roma continue on the A5 for choose to fl y in. clearly marked. the Lesotho side of the border the track goes east to 40 km. Contact: Contact: Tiffi ndell: +27 (0)45 974 9004; www.snow.co.za Lesotho-Durham Link: +266 22 325 166; Sehlabathebe National Park. Contact: Ramabanta Lodge and Trading Post Guest House: Notes: Remember to take warm clothes as daytime www.durham-lesotholink.org.uk +266 22 340 202 temperatures can remain as low as -6ºC on some days. Notes: The campsite is electrifi ed, and has ablution facilities There is also a ski resort in Lesotho – the Mahlasela with hot and cold running water. Caravans can be Ski Resort near Oxbow – developed as Afri-Ski Leisure accommodated. Kingdom. The main objective of this initiative is for the local communities to benefi t from the ski resort for more attractions consult the development. Contact: +27 (0)12 347 7215; directory at the back of the book www.afriski.co.za

122 the maloti drakensberg experience adventure tourism 123 rock-climbing safety fi rst With more peaks per square kilometre than any other country in Africa, ■ If you are a “beginner”, do and spectacular cliff faces, ridges and chimneys, the Maloti Drakensberg initial climbs with an experi- Mountains attract climbers from all over the world. There are operators enced person. (see Directory at the back of this book) who can inform you of the many ■ Always remain aware of available routes and local conditions. where your nearest descent Climbs in the high Drakensberg are on volcanic rock, often consisting route is, particularly once of successive rock faces separated by narrow grass ledges. The rock you reach the top, as mist also forms rounded overhangs, blocks and gullies, often making the and snow can obscure the climbing quite awkward. The rock quality varies considerably. Two “rules route. of thumb” are relevant: ■ Before setting out ensure (i) The lower rock is generally the worst, while that near the summits that you have all your is often quite good. climbing equipment and (ii) The higher the technical grade, the greater the likelihood of good test it – make sure your rock. ropes are in good condition, Protection: The following are recommended: a selection of wired and that you have good stoppers and small hexes; self-adjusting cams (“friends”); a selection of climbing boots and gloves. knife-blade and channel pegs. above Nothing beats the feeling of standing at the top, Always keep your equip- Rescue: Medical emergencies in the KwaZulu-Natal Drakensberg are ice-climbing Lesotho Highlands. managed by the provincial EMRS (Emergency Medical Rescue Services). ment in good repair – your This spectacular sport has been growing in the Maloti Drakensberg region. The photo: gareth frost life could depend on it. Rescues are carried out in conjunction with the Mountain Club of South Giant’s Castle area has been known to ice-climbers for some years. Recently the ■ Find out about rescue Africa, supported by helicopters. Sani Pass and Lesotho areas have been explored, and several new ice-climbing options in your area, inform routes have been opened. A grading system enables climbers to match the are you fi t Further information: enough? people where you are going ■ ClimbZA: www.climb.co.za climb to their skills levels. and fi ll in the mountain ■ Mountain Club of South Africa: www.mcsa.org.za There is ice on the high cliffs from late May to late August. The best time to Grades for ice- rescue register. ■ SA Climbing Info Network: www.saclimb.co.za climb is from mid- to late July. climbing: the commitment grade – in roman numerals I-III below Learning rock-climbing skills skiing – indicates the diffi culty of – safety is a priority. photo: gg Skiing is a recent development among the tourism offerings of the Maloti the approach and descent, Drakensberg region. There are ski resorts available in Lesotho and the Eastern the availability of escape Cape. They vary in the quantity and reliability of snowfalls, and some use snow routes, and how sustained machines to supplement the natural snow. Some resorts offer skiing lessons the climbing will be (how and equipment rental. The ski slopes at present vary in length between 500 m many pitches), with I and 1 000 m, sometimes served by ski lifts. Out of the skiing season the resorts being the easiest. generally also offer other activities such as golf, fl y-fi shing, kayaking and hiking. the technical grade – Up-to-date details and directions can be obtained from each resort. ranging from 1 to 6 Notes: Remember to put antifreeze into your car radiator and window bottle. – indicates how hard Further information: any single section of ■ Afri-ski Leisure Kingdom – Mahlasela Ski Resort (Northern Lesotho): climbing is likely to be +27 (0)12 347 7215; www.afriski.co.za under average conditions. ■ Club Maluti (Northern Lesotho): www.clubmaluti.co.za Pitches that normally take ■ Tiffi ndell Ski Resort (North-eastern Cape): see key attractions: place on water-ice are +27 (0)45 974 9004/5; www.snow.co.za prefi xed by WI.

124 the maloti drakensberg experience adventure tourism 125 abseiling white-water rafting what to bring Towards the end of the twentieth century abseiling, (and the closely associ- Southern Africa, despite being relatively dry, has some challenging rivers in ated rappelling), became a sport in its own right – before then it was simply the rainy summer months. The mighty rivers that form high in the Maloti and ■ gloves a method used to get off a mountain! Abseiling is the art of lowering yourself Drakensberg Mountains offer many opportunities to the adventure seeker: ■ swimming costume down a rope to which you are attached by means of a harness. Supported by rivers that fl ow and cascade through mountain, grassland and bush, then and/or light shorts the rope you “walk” backwards off the cliff face, controlling the rate as you go. meander through straight, quiet stretches before bursting into life again in a ■ light shirt (to prevent Once you get over the initial shock, abseiling is great fun – you can even stop series of plunging waterfalls and churning rapids. These are powerful water- sunburn) yourself and enjoy the scenery. ways, begging to be tamed by raft, canoe, kayak or tube. ■ strong sun lotion If this sounds tame to you, consider rapp jumping, which is abseiling with Rapids are graded from 1 to 6, Grade 1 being quiet-moving water with no ■ hat the ropes attached to your back instead of in front, which means you go down obstacles while Grade 6 offers extreme excitement and challenge. ■ face fi rst! secure fastening for Some white-water trips: sunglasses, etc. photo: gg Further information: 1 ash river (north-eastern free state): The Ash River, near Clarens, is prob- Commercial operators will ■ Maletsunyane Falls: see key attractions ably South Africa’s most dependable white-water rafting spot, thanks to the supply all paddling equip- ■ Semonkong Lodge: +266 27 006 037; www.placeofsmoke.co.ls Lesotho Highlands Water Project which releases water on a continual basis. ment such as life jackets, 2 central drakensberg rivers: Daily river trips are offered (subject to river helmets and paddles. mountain biking conditions) on the four main rivers in the area: Injasuti, Mlambonja, Bushman’s and Thukela. The Thukela River trip is the most popular and includes a Grade 5 The Southern Drakensberg is one of the best mountain biking destinations rapid, the strongest rapid allowed to be run commercially. Two-person infl atable in South Africa. It offers a wide range of self-guided mountain bike trails for rafts and all the equipment are provided. Trips are led by experienced guides. both the competitive and the casual rider. Trails range from gentle gradients 3 senqu river (lesotho): see key attractions. to the challenge of the Sani Pass – an ascent and descent of 900 m between the South African and Lesotho border posts – amidst the magnifi cent mountain Further information: ■ scenery of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site. Lesotho-Durham Link: +266 22 325 166; www.durham-lesotholink.org.uk ■ Many of the mountain trails are suitable for exploring on bikes and this is See directory for other operators. photo: ak becoming an increasingly popular activity. You are asked to keep to recognized trails to avoid damaging the fl ora and fauna. 4×4 driving and quad bike experiences don’t forget! Some MTB events: The Maloti Drakensberg region is a 4×4 driver’s paradise. However, bear in the sani pass transfrontier mountain bike epic: 72-km single-day endurance mind that these areas have great environmental importance, so take care to ■ Fill up water bottles MTB event in early December, involving a climb of 1 674 m, from the Sani Pass avoid damaging the environment. Keep to established trails at all times. before setting off. photo: ds Hotel via Sani Pass to the top of Black Mountain Pass and back. There are two Quad biking is also fast gaining popularity and when enjoyed responsibly is ■ Use a high protection shorter events (42 km and 27 km) on the same day. a fantastic way to experience the region. Unfortunately it has the potential to sun lotion. drakXperience: similar event in early May. destroy rare species and damage sensitive ecosystems as even just one trip off ■ Wear a helmet. sani2c: 3-day race from Underberg via back roads and tracks to Scottburgh on the established path can cause irreversible damage. Please respect this ancient ■ Complete the moun- the KwaZulu-Natal south coast. landscape so that it can be enjoyed by future generations. lesotho thin air challenge: 4-day trail in south-eastern Lesotho tain register where 4×4 routes: relevant, or make sure Further information: 1 sani pass: The legendary Sani Pass is one of the better-known 4×4 and quad that you inform others ■ The Sani Pass Transfrontier Mountain Bike Epic and DrakXperience: bike routes. The steep zigzag pass climbs to 2 874 m. Sani Top Chalet offers a of your intended route. Drakensberg Mountain Bike Club: www.drakensbergmtb.co.za pub, hearty meals and accommodation. ■ ■ Stay on recognized Lesotho Thin Air Challenge: www.lesothothinair.co.za; 2 lesotho highland routes: From Sani Top a 4×4 is the best way to travel ■ trails. sani2c: www.sani2c.co.za the gravel roads and dramatic passes which give access to the majestic scenery of the highland areas. Possible destinations are Mokhotlong, Oxbow, Katse Dam, (the base for the Lesotho Highlands Water Project), Thaba Tseka and Semonkong. Notable passes include the Moteng Pass and Molimo Nthuse Pass (“God Help Me Pass”). photo: sp

126 the maloti drakensberg experience adventure tourism 127 mountain running 1 activities 2 places to stay This is for the true endurance junkie, looking 3 places to eat for events which pit competitors against the 4 places to shop altitude, ruggedness and steepness of the 5 annual festivals and events Drakensberg. 6 tourism information offi ces The Sani Stagger is a gruelling race, run in late November along the Sani Pass road between the Sani Pass Hotel in KZN and the Lesotho Border Post at Sani Top. The event actu- ally comprises three races: a 21,1 km UP RACE, a 21,1 km DOWN RACE and a 42,2 km MARATHON which goes up and down, starting and ending at photo: ew photo: martin liebenberg directory the Sani Pass Hotel. The Mont-Aux-Sources Challenge, run in Further information: 1 activities September every year, offers a limited number of ■ Airborne Adventures Africa: +27 (0)84 504 2171; nearest town establishment telephone athletes (270) the opportunity of running from the www.airborneadventuresafrica.com  Mahai campsite at the Royal Natal section of the Specialized tours Africa Antiqua Cultural Tours +27 (0)33 330 7729 Button Birding +27 (0)39 833 1029    uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site Dawn Green Tourist Guide +27 (0)45 971 9078       paragliding  to the top of the Tugela Falls and back again via the Dinosaur Fossil Hunting Expeditions +27 (0)82 829 4978 Paragliding is probably the most affordable form Elsa Pooley Botanical Tours +27 (0)82 487 5385  chainladder (up) and the gully and Witsieshoek Hotel Lesotho Off-Road Association +266 62 200 555  (down). This 50-km challenge has a 10-hour cutoff of free fl ight. Having launched from a mountain or Pied Piper Expeditions +27 (0)33 701 1741  and is therefore a comfortable event for those who hill, you are able to ride the air currents and soar Senqu Tourism +27 (0)51 603 0160    with the eagles in absolute silence and at one with Aliwal North Aligeo Khaya B&B +27 (0)82 407 9406      are fi t enough. Badfontein Guest Farm +27 (0)51 633 2263  nature. Bulwer Mountain, next to the village of  Further information: Riverside Lodge +27 (0)51 633 3282 Bulwer in the foothills of the southern Drakensberg, Thaba Nkulu +27 (0)51 633 3777        ■ Sani Stagger: www.sanistagger.com Barkly East Balloch Cottages +27 (0)45 974 9228        is a favourite spot for paragliders, hang gliders and        ■ Mont-Aux-Sources Challenge: KZN Wildlife Conser- Bidstone Guest House +27 (0)45 974 9261 ‘wannabe’ pilots. Dawn Green Tourist Guide +27 (0)45 971 9078       vation Trust: +27 (0)33 343 2669 Edgehill Guest Farm +27 (0)82 558 2597        Bulwer Airsports Club controls the fl ying sites Funnystone B&B +27 (0)45 974 9260        around Bulwer. Through the club you can access a Jack Spratt Self Catering +27 (0)84 580 4370     number of paragliding operators. There is a two-day Millard Mountain Lodge +27 (0)45 971 9078 hot-air ballooning Old Mill Inn +27 (0)45 971 0277      Hot-air ballooning offers a serene way to enjoy the introductory course. Starting off on a nursery slope Reedsdell Country Guest Farm +27 (0)45 974 9900       in a safe environment, the course gives you the Senqu Tourism +27 (0)51 603 0160    region. Half an hour before sunrise your group meets Siskin’s B&B +27 (0)45 974 9900  for a safety briefi ng at the launch site. Once the opportunity to decide whether fl ying is really for you! Tiffi ndell Ski Resort +27 (0)11 465 4370         Should you decide to continue, the fl ights that you Bergville ATKV Drakensville Mountain Resort +27 (0)36 438 6287     balloon has been infl ated, you’re off on a fl ight over Drifters Drakensburg Inn +27 (0)11 888 1160      some of the most spectacular scenery in the world. take during the two days are incorporated into the Easby Guest House +27 (0)36 448 1128        There are various take-off sites around Kamberg, in basic licence course. Ezulwini Berg Resort +27 (0)36 438 6322 Hlalanathi Drakensberg Resort +27 (0)36 438 6308  the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands and near some resorts Notes: While paragliding is largely an adult sport, Little Switzerland Resort +27 (0)36 438 6220  within sight of the Drakensberg. the whole family can enjoy the spectacular views Mahai/Rugged Glen Camp Site +27 (0)36 438 6310       Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre +27 (0)72 712 2401      Notes: Air temperature decreases with altitude, so from the take-off points. Montusi Mountain Lodge +27 (0)36 438 6243     Orion Mont-Aux-Sources +27 (0)36 438 8000         if it is cold on the ground it will be colder in the air, Further information: Sandford Park Country Hotel +27 (0)36 448 1001  so dress accordingly. Ballooning is fun for the family, ■ Bulwer Airsports Club: Hans Fokkens: Sungubala Mountain Bush Camp +27 (0)36 438 6000   but remember that children should be tall enough +27 (0)82 395 3298 or +27 (0)39 832 0224. The Homestead +27 (0)36 448 1328 Thendele Camp Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 438 6411  to see over the edge of the basket, which is about Tower of Pizza +27 (0)36 438 6480  1,1 m high. Botha Bothe Afriski Leisure Kingdom +27 (0)86 111 7111 

128 the maloti drakensberg experience directory 129 nearest town establishment telephone nearest town establishment telephone

Liphofung Cultural Village +266 22 460 723 PlumTree Lodge +27 (0)33 702 1035 Maliba Mountain Lodge +27 (0)31 266 6669 Reichenau Cultural and Eco-Tourism +27 (0)33 701 1735 Mamohase Rural Stay B&B +266 58 058 438 Experience Mountain View Hotel/Leribe Hotel +266 22 400 559 Sani Pass Quad Tours +27 (0)72 425 5230 Oxbow Lodge +27 (0)51 933 2247 Sani Top Chalets +27 (0)82 715 1131 Cedarville Cedarberg Guest Farm +27 (0)83 262 5464 Sani Valley Flyfi shing & Game Lodge +27 (0)33 702 0203 Champagne Valley Bell Park +27 (0)36 468 1641 St James Lodge +27 (0)33 326 1601 Bye Gums +27 (0)82 447 2240 Yellowwood Cottage +27 (0)82 055 0305 Drakensberg Boys Choir +27 (0)36 468 1012 Howick Beverley Guest Farm +27 (0)33 234 4791 Clarens Basotho Cultural Village +27 (0)58 721 0300 Karkloof Canopy Tours +27 (0)33 330 3415 Been to Clarens Conferencing and Event Kamberg Antbear Guest House +27 (0)36 352 3143 +27 (0)83 239 1443 Company Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse +27 (0)33 267 7243 Caledon Gardens +27 (0)58 223 0442 Kamberg Camp Nature Reserve +27 (0)33 267 7251 Clarens Golf and Trout Villas +27 (0)83 292 5823 Riverside Cottages +27 (0)33 267 7245 Cottage Pie and Sweetie Pie +27 (0)58 256 1214 Katse Khohol Ntso Pony Trekking +266 63 193 683 Craigrossie Trout +27 (0)58 256 1047 Lady Grey Art Explore +27 (0)82 895 6697 Destiny Explorations +27 (0)83 755 5511 Baggers and Packers; The Hiking Halt +27 (0)51 603 0346 Die Huisie +27 (0)58 863 1085 Comfrey Cottage +27 (0)51 603 0407 Dinosaur Fossil Hunting Expeditions +27 (0)82 829 4978 Lammergeier Private Nature Reserve +27 (0)82 929 9729 GNU Safaris +27 (0)82 774 8814 Lupela Lodge +27 (0)51 603 7034 Golden Gate Highlands National Park +27 (0)58 255 1000 Mountain View Country Inn +27 (0)51 603 0421 Memel Getaways +27 (0)58 924 0400 Riverview Cottage +27 (0)82 200 9429 Mountain Odyssey +27 (0)58 256 1480 Sterley House +27 (0)51 603 0182 Outrageous Adventures +27 (0)83 485 9654 Ladybrand Country Lodge Hotel +27 (0)51 924 3209 Rest-a-While +27 (0)58 256 1126 My Housy +27 (0)51 924 1010 San Rock Guest House +27 (0)83 292 3371 The Siding Game Lodge +27 (0)51 924 0280 Sethuthuthu Tours & Safaris by Quad Bike +27 (0)82 575 6186 Ladysmith Buller’s Rest Lodge +27 (0)36 637 6152 St Ford Country House +27 (0)58 256 1345 Peaches & Cream B&B +27 (0)36 631 0954 Wynott Country House +27 (0)58 256 1381 Spioenkop Lodge +27 (0)36 488 1404 Clocolan Ben Nevis Guest Farm +27 (0)51 943 0031 Trenchgula Game Farm and Guest Lodge +27 (0)36 637 2700 Nova Barletta +27 (0)82 571 5280 Leribe Bokong Nature Reserve +266 22 460 723 The Cabin Farm stall & Deli +27 (0)82 707 2894 Ts’ehlanyane Nature Reserve +266 22 460 723 Creighton Button Birding and Smithfi eld Guesthouse +27 (0)39 833 1029 Maclear Royal Hotel +27 (0)45 932 1176 Elliot Langburst Estate B&B +27 (0)45 931 2813 Mafeteng Malealea Lodge & Pony Trek Centre +27 (0)82 552 4215 Langhurst B&B and Pub +27 (0)76 846 2842 Maseru Basotho Pony Trekking Centre +266 22 317 284 Mountain Shadows Hotel +27 (0)45 931 2233 J&E Cyaara Guest House +266 22 320 303 The Old Mill Inn +27 (0)45 971 0277 Lesotho Durham Link & Maseru Campsite +266 22 325 166 Topiary B&B +27 (0)45 931 1384 Lesotho Durham Link Outdoor Activities +266 22 325 166 Estcourt Ashtonville Terraces Guest House +27 (0)36 352 7770 Center Blue Haze Country Lodge +27 (0)36 352 5772 Lesotho Sun Hotel and Casino +266 22 313 111 Lesotho Tourism Information Offi ce, Thaba Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 353 3718 +266 22 357 207 Bosiu Injisuthi Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 431 7848 Natural Development Travel Tours +266 58 451 086 Monks Cowl Country Club +27 (0)36 468 1300 Sematsatsa Tours +266 58 851 962 Sewula Gorge Lodge +27 (0)36 352 2485 T-Connexion Tours +266 62 861 361 Slievyre Game Farm +27 (0)36 352 2866 Unique Tourism Facilities +266 63 050 197 Willowgrange Hotel +27 (0)36 352 7102 Matatiele Masakala Traditional Guesthouse +27 (0)39 737 3289 Ficksburg Hoekfontein Ox-Wagon Camp +27 (0)51 933 3915 Mehloding Hiking Trail +27 (0)39 737 3289 Malutizicht Lodge +27 (0)51 933 6171 Memel Antique B&B +27 (0)58 924 0129 Moolmanshoek Private Game Reserve +27 (0)82 788 6623 Dumela Caravan Parks +27 (0)82 811 7062 Fouriesburg De Rust Farm Cottage +27 (0)82 377 5222 La Gai-Roi +27 (0)58 924 0129 Meiringskloof Nature Park +27 (0)58 223 0067 Mahem Guest House +27 (0)58 924 0034 OVK Guest Farm +27 (0)58 223 0268 Shumba Valley Guest Farm +27 (0)58 223 0277 Pampoenspruit Heiberg +27 (0)84 945 3190 Wyndford Hoilday Farm +27 (0)58 223 0274 Sandstone Mountain Retreat +27 (0)82 784 0168 Harrismith Mont-Aux-Sources Hotel +27 (0)36 438 8000 Vogel’s Nest +27 (0)58 924 0129 Himeville Albizia House +27 (0)33 702 1837 Mohale’s Hoek Hotel Mount Maluti +266 22 785 224 All Out Adventures +27 (0)36 438 6242 Mokhotlong Mokhotlong Hotel +266 22 920 212 Chestnut Cottage +27 (0)82 926 8048 Molumong Lodge +27 (0)83 254 3323 Drakensberg Adventures +27 (0)33 702 0330 Senqu Adventures +27 (0)83 443 6247 Himeville Arms Hotel +27 (0)33 702 1305 Mooi River Drakensberg Excursions/Bergtrails +27 (0)33 267 7227 Louwlands B&B and Self Catering +27 (0)33 702 1204 Hartford House +27 (0)33 263 2713 Moorcroft Manor Country Hotel +27(0)33 702 1967 Hlatikulu Crane and Wetland Sanctuary +27 (0)33 263 2441

130 the maloti drakensberg experience directory 131 nearest town establishment telephone nearest town establishment telephone

Morija Morija Guest Houses +266 63 065 093 Valemount Country Lodge +27 (0)33 701 1686 Morija Museum and Archives +266 22 360 308 Winterton Acorn Cottages +27 (0)36 468 1674 Newcastle Draaiwater Lodge +27 (0)34 341 1909 Ardmore Guest Farm +27 (0)36 468 1314 Nottingham Road Airborne Adventures Africa +27 (0)84 504 2171 Bridge Lodge +27 (0)36 488 1554 Fordoun Leisure +27 (0)33 266 6217 Cathedral Peak Hotel +27 (0)36 488 1888 Fort Nottingham Museum +27 (0)33 266 6482 Cathkin Cottage B&B +27 (0)36 468 1513 Glengarry +27 (0)33 267 7225 Champagne Castle Hotel +27 (0)36 468 1063 Prosperity Self Catering Cottages +27 (0)82 881 7261 Champagne Sports Resort +27 (0)36 468 8000 Qacha’s Nek Letloepe Lodge +266 22 950 383 Clivia Hill Guest Cottage +27 (0)36 468 1684 Nthatuoa Hotel +266 22 950 260 Dragon Peaks Mountain Resort +27 (0)36 468 1031 Sehlabathebe National Park +266 22 311 767 Drakensberg Sun Hotel +27 (0)36 468 1000 Quthing Moroosi Chalets +27 (0)82 552 4215 Four Rivers Rafting and Adventures +27 (0)83 785 1693 Rhodes Rhodes Hotel +27 (0)45 974 9305 Inkosona Lodge and Trekking +27 (0)36 468 1202 Rubicon Self Catering +27 (0)45 974 9268 Monks Cowl Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 468 1103 Tenahead Mountain Reserve and Lodge +27 (0)45 971 8901 Mountain Splendour Resort +27 (0)36 468 1172 The Old Barn +27 (0)84 867 8174 Peak View Cottage +27 (0)36 468 1342 The Wild Trout Association +27 (0)45 974 9290 Rolling M Ranch +27 (0)83 489 7834 Walkerbouts Inn +27 (0)45 974 9290 Rose-Cottage B&B +27 (0)36 488 1049 Wild Flower Viewing +27 (0)72 291 5128 Sagarmatha-Monks Cowl Adventures +27 (0)72 664 2993 Richmond Highover Wildlife Sanctuary +27 (0)33 212 3171 San Rock Ridge Tours +27 (0)36 488 1137 Roma Phasemane Pony Treks and Adventures +266 22 340 202 Spioenkop Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 488 1578 The Trading Post Guest House and Adventure +266 22 340 202 The Nest Hotel +27 (0) 36 468 1068 Rosetta Kamdun Lodge +27 (0)83 225 3053 Treks, Trips and Trails +27 (0)36 488 1207 Tamakwa Country Lodge +27 (0)33 267 7154 Wits End Mountain Resort +27 (0)36 468 1133 Sani Top Mokoena Mohlomi +27 (0)74 241 2352 Sehlabathebe Mokamoli Mohlomelo +27 (0)74 241 2352 Semonkong Semonkong Lodge +266 27 006 037 Sterkspruit Belle Gardens B&B +27 (0)51 611 1453 Ekhaya Luxury B&B +27 (0)51 611 1422 Mountain Valley Hill B&B +27 (0)83 265 7288 Teyateyaneng Kome Cave Village And Visitors’ Center +266 58 444 383 2 places to stay Ugie The Country House +27 (0)45 933 1267 Underberg Arbuckle House +27 (0)33 702 1990 bed and breakfast (b&b), self catering (sc), camping and caravanning (c&c), lodge (l), conference facilites (cf), guest house (gh), Bentwood Inn +27 (0)33 701 2920 hotel (h), backpackers (bp), homestay (hm), health spa (hs) Bhengu’s B&B +27 (0)82 697 5731

Drakensberg Gardens Golf & Leisure Resort +27 (033 701 1355 nearest town establishment telephone accommodation Eagle’s Rock Mountain Retreat +27 (0)33 701 1757 Aliwal North Aligeo Khaya B&B +27 (0)82 407 9406 B&B Ekuthuleni +27 (0)82 223 4404 Badfontein Guest Farm +27 (0)51 633 2263 SC, B&B, C&C Elgin B&B +27 (0)33 701 1918 Far Horizon B&B +27 (0)33 701 2629 Balmoral Guest Lodge +27 (0)51 633 2453 L, CF Giants Cup Wilderness Reserve +27 (0)33 701 1511 Lekker Ou Jan B&B +27 (0)51 634 2656 B&B Glenlea Log Cabin +27 (0)33 701 1692 Lord Somerset Guest House +27 (0)51 634 1114 GH Khotso Horse Trails +27 (0)33 701 1502 Queens Terrace +27 (0)51 634 2291 B&B, CF Lake Naverone +27 (0)33 701 1236 Riverside Lodge +27 (0)51 633 3282 SC, L, CF Lotheni Nature Reserve +27 (0)33 702 0540 Saddle Down Lodge +27 (0)51 634 2083 B&B Major Adventures +27 (0)33 701 1628 Thaba Nkulu +27 (0)51 633 3777 B&B Mountain River Lodge +27 (0)82 562 5051 The Umtali +27 (0)82 456 2460 L, CF Off-Road Adventures +27 (0)83 404 4422 Welgemoed Chalets +27 (0)51 633 2692 SC Penwarn Country Lodges +27 (0)33 701 1777 Barkly East Balloch Cottages +27 (0)45 974 9228 SC, C&C Pied Piper Expeditions +27 (0)33 701 1741 Bidstone Guest House +27 (0)45 974 9261 B&B, GH Riverlea Farm +27 (0)33 701 1145 Edgehill Guest Farm +27 (0)82 558 2597 SC Rougham Farm Cottage +27 (0)33 701 1631 Funnystone B&B +27 (0)45 974 9260 B&B Sani Pass Tours +27 (0)33 701 1064 Jack Spratt Self Catering +27 (0)84 580 4370 SC Sherwood Shallows +27 (0)33 701 1120 Millard Mountain Lodge +27 (0)45 971 9078 GH Silverstreams Country Estate +27 (0)82 859 8619 Old Mill Inn +27 (0)45 971 0277 B&B, H, CF Southern Berg Escape Tourism Info Offi ce +27 (0)33 701 1471 Reedsdell Country Guest Farm +27 (0)45 974 9900 B&B, SC Southern Secrets Hiking and Backpacking +27 (0)33 997 1817 Siskin’s B&B +27 (0)45 974 9900 B&B Stoneyhall Farm +27 (0)33 701 1883 Tiffi ndell Ski Resort +27 (0)11 465 4370 B&B, SC, CF Teddington Adventure Farm +27 (0)39 747 4422 Bergville Anthony’s B&B and Self Catering +27 (0)83 334 7488 B&B, SC Tumble Inn B&B +27 (0)33 701 1556 ATKV Drakensville Mountain Resort +27 (0)36 438 6287 B&B, C&C, SC, CF Underberg Adventures +27 (0)82 494 9419 Bingelela +27 (0)36 448 1336 SC, B&B Underberg Hideaways +27 (0)33 343 1217 Drifters Drakensburg Inn +27 (0)11 888 1160 B&B, SC, L Easby Guest House +27 (0)36 448 1128 GH

132 the maloti drakensberg experience directory 133 nearest town establishment telephone accommodation nearest town establishment telephone accommodation

Ezulwini Berg Resort +27 (0)36 438 6322 SC Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 353 3718 SC, L, CF Hlalanathi Drakensberg Resort +27 (0)36 438 6308 SC, C&C Injisuthi Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 431 7848 C&C, SC Little Switzerland Resort +27 (0)36 438 6220 SC, H, HS, CF Monks Cowl Country Club +27 (0)36 468 1300 L, CF Mahai/Rugged Glen Camp Site +27 (0)36 438 6310 C&C Sewula Gorge Lodge +27 (0)36 352 2485 B&B, SC Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre +27 (0)72 712 2401 SC, BP, C&C Slievyre Game Farm +27 (0)36 352 2866 SC Montusi Mountain Lodge +27 (0)36 438 6243 L Willowgrange Hotel +27 (0)36 352 7102 C&C, H, CF Orion Mont-Aux-Sources +27 (0)36 438 8000 H, CF Ficksburg Hoekfontein Ox-Wagon Camp +27 (0)51 933 3915 C&C Sandford Park Country Hotel +27 (0)36 448 1001 H, CF Malutizicht Lodge +27 (0)51 933 6171 SC Sungubala Mountain Bush Camp +27 (0)36 438 6000 SC Moolmanshoek Private Game Reserve +27 (0)82 788 6623 L, CF The Homestead +27 (0)36 448 1328 L, CF Woodpecker Guesthouse +27 (0)51 933 6180 GH Thendele Camp Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 438 6411 SC Fouriesburg De Rust Farm Cottage +27 (0)82 377 5222 SC Tower of Pizza +27 (0)36 438 6480 B&B Meiringskloof Nature Park +27 (0)58 223 0067 C&C, SC Tozer’s B&B +27 (0)82 925 1849 B&B OVK Guest Farm +27 (0)58 223 0268 B&B, C&C, CF, SC Botha Bothe Afriski Leisure Kingdom +27 (0)86 111 7111 B&B, SC, CF Shumba Valley Guest Farm +27 (0)58 223 0277 B&B, C&C, SC Botha Bothe Youth Hostel +266 63 131 240 Hm Wyndford Hoilday Farm +27 (0)58 223 0274 GH Crocodile Inn +266 22 460 223 H Harrismith Mont-Aux-Sources Hotel +27 (0)36 438 8000 H, SC, CF Likeleng Village +266 22 460 686 L Tom’s Place B&B +27 (0)58 623 0006 B&B Maliba Mountain Lodge +27 (0)31 266 6669 L, CF Himeville Albizia House +27 (0)33 702 1837 B&B Mamohase Rural Stay B&B +266 58 058 438 B&B, C&C, SC Chestnut Cottage +27 (0)82 926 8048 SC Mountain View Hotel/Leribe Hotel +266 22 400 559 H, CF Himeville Arms Hotel +27 (0)33 702 1305 H, CF Oxbow Lodge +27 (0)51 933 2247 L Louwlands B&B and Self Catering +27 (0)33 702 1204 B&B, SC Cedarville Cedarberg Guest Farm +27 (0)83 262 5464 B&B, SC, C&C, CF Moorcroft Manor Country Hotel +27(0)33 702 1967 H, CF Champagne Valley Bell Park +27 (0)36 468 1641 SC, B&B PlumTree Lodge +27 (0)33 702 1035 B&B Bye Gums +27 (0)82 447 2240 SC Reichenau Cultural and Eco-Tourism Experience +27 (0)33 701 1735 SC, BP Heartsease +27 (0)36 468 1603 B&B Sani Lodge +27 (0)33 702 0330 BP, C&C, SC, B&B L’Chiam +27 (0)83 659 0011 SC Sani Manor +27 (0)33 702 1139 B&B Clarens Ashbrook Country Lodge +27 (0)83 453 3684 SC Sani Pass Quad Tours +27 (0)72 425 5230 B&B Basotho Cultural Village +27 (0)58 721 0300 SC Sani Top Chalets +27 (0)82 715 1131 B&B, C&C, SC, BP BP, B&B, C&C, CF, GH, HS, Sani Valley Flyfi shing & Game Lodge +27 (0)33 702 0203 B&B, SC, L, HS, CF Been to Clarens Conferencing and Event Company +27 (0)83 239 1443 H, L, SC St James Lodge +27 (0)33 326 1601 SC, C&C Brandwag Hotel Golden Gate Mountain Resort +27 (0)58 255 1000 H, CF Yellowwood Cottage +27 (0)82 055 0305 B&B, SC Caledon Gardens +27 (0)58 223 0442 B&B, GH, CF Howick Beverley Guest Farm +27 (0)33 234 4791 SC Clarens Destinations +27 (0)58 256 1189 Kamberg Antbear Guest House +27 (0)36 352 3143 B&B, L, GH Clarens Golf and Trout Villas +27 (0)83 292 5823 SC Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse +27 (0)33 267 7243 GH Cottage Pie and Sweetie Pie +27 (0)58 256 1214 B&B, SC Kamberg Camp Nature Reserve +27 (0)33 267 7251 SC Craigrossie Trout +27 (0)58 256 1047 SC Riverside Cottages +27 (0)33 267 7245 B&B, SC Die Huisie +27 (0)58 863 1085 SC Kokstad Manora Guesthouse +27 (0)39 727 2963 GH, SC GNU Safaris +27 (0)82 774 8814 B&B Oak Park +27 (0)39 727 2453 GH, CF Golden Gate Highlands National Park +27 (0)58 255 1000 C&C, SC, H, CF Lady Grey Art Explore +27 (0)82 895 6697 SC Lake Clarens Guest House +27 (0)82 551 3248 GH At Home B&B +27 (0)51 603 0176 B&B Mountain Odyssey +27 (0)58 256 1480 SC, CF Baggers and Packers; The Hiking Halt +27 (0)51 603 0346 C&C, BP, L, SC Patcham Place B&B +27 (0)58 256 1017 B&B Comfrey Cottage +27 (0)51 603 0407 GH Red Mountain House +27 (0)58 256 1456 B&B Karnmelkspruit River Resort +27 (0)51 603 7036 C&C Rest-a-While +27 (0)58 256 1126 B&B, SC Lady Grey Country Club +27 (0)51 603 0022 C&C Rooikat +27 (0)58 256 1558 SC Lammergeier Private Nature Reserve +27 (0)82 929 9729 SC, GH, CF, BP San Rock Guest House +27 (0)83 292 3371 SC Lupela Lodge +27 (0)51 603 7034 SC, B&B St Ford Country House +27 (0)58 256 1345 B&B, L, GH Mountain View Country Inn +27 (0)51 603 0421 SC, H, CF Wynott Country House +27 (0)58 256 1381 B&B Riverview Cottage +27 (0)82 200 9429 SC Clocolan Ben Nevis Guest Farm +27 (0)51 943 0031 B&B, SC, GH Sterley House +27 (0)51 603 0182 B&B, SC Makoadi B&B +27 (0)51 943 0273 B&B The Comfrey Cottage Collection +27 (0)51 603 0407 SC Nova Barletta +27 (0)82 571 5280 B&B, SC Ladybrand Country Lodge Hotel +27 (0)51 924 3209 H Orsmond Guest Farm +27 (0)51 943 0291 B&B, GH, CF Don’s Inn +27 (0)51 924 1316 SC Creighton Button Birding and Smithfi eld Guesthouse +27 (0)39 833 1029 B&B, SC, GH, Hm, C&C My Housy +27 (0)51 924 1010 B&B, GH Elliot Langburst Estate B&B +27 (0)45 931 2813 CF, B&B St Augustine’s Priory +27 (0)51 924 3318 CF, L Langhurst B&B and Pub +27 (0)76 846 2842 B&B, GH The Siding Game Lodge +27 (0)51 924 0280 B&B, L, CF Merino Hotel +27 (0)45 931 2987 H Ladysmith Augustine Avenue B&B +27 (0)36 631 3448 B&B Mountain Shadows Hotel +27 (0)45 931 2233 B&B, H, CF Buller’s Rest Lodge +27 (0)36 637 6152 L Rose Garden, Dinner B&B +27 (0)45 931 1158 B&B Farquhar Lodge +27 (0)83 635 3489 B&B, CF The Old Mill Inn +27 (0)45 971 0277 B&B Heritage Guest House +27 (0)82 940 0650 GH Topiary B&B +27 (0)45 931 1384 B&B, SC Peaches & Cream B&B +27 (0)36 631 0954 B&B Estcourt Ashtonville Terraces Guest House +27 (0)36 352 7770 B&B Royal Hotel +27 (0)36 637 2176 H Blue Haze Country Lodge +27 (0)36 352 5772 L, CF Spioenkop Lodge +27 (0)36 488 1404 SC, L

134 the maloti drakensberg experience directory 135 nearest town establishment telephone accommodation nearest town establishment telephone accommodation

Trenchgula Game Farm and Guest Lodge +27 (0)36 637 2700 L, CF Nthatuoa Hotel +266 22 950 260 H Leribe Aloes Guest House +266 58 065 622 GH Range Management +266 22 950 231 B&B Chock’s Guest House +266 63 184 408 GH Sehlabathebe National Park +266 22 311 767 SC Katse Lodge +266 22 910 202 L Quthing Fuleng Guest House +266 58 782 779 GH Leribe Hotel +266 22 400 559 H Moroosi Chalets +27 (0)82 552 4215 B&B, C&C, SC, BP, Hm Sekekete Hotel +266 22 430 789 H Mountain Side Hotel +266 22 750 257 H Ts’ehlanyane Nature Reserve +266 22 460 723 SC Orange River Hotel +266 58 716 486 H Maclear Royal Hotel +27 (0)45 932 1176 H Rhodes Rhodes Hotel +27 (0)45 974 9305 B&B Mafeteng Golden Hotel +266 22 700 566 H Rubicon Self Catering +27 (0)45 974 9268 SC, CF Hotel Mafeteng +266 58 855 555 H Tenahead Mountain Reserve and Lodge +27 (0)45 971 8901 B&B, L, CF Malealea Lodge & Pony Trek Centre +27 (0)82 552 4215 B&B, C&C, SC, L, H, BP, Hm, CF The Old Barn +27 (0)84 867 8174 SC Marquard Marquard booking offi ce +27 (0)83 403 5778 B&B Walkerbouts Inn +27 (0)45 974 9290 GH Maseru Essentials Health and Beauty Spa +266 22 323 744 HS Wild Flower Viewing +27 (0)72 291 5128 SC Foothills Guest House +266 58 706 566 GH, SC Richmond Highover Wildlife Sanctuary +27 (0)33 212 3171 SC, C&C, BP, L, CF J&E Cyaara Guest House +266 22 320 303 B&B, SC, GH Roma Trading Post Guest House and Adventure +266 22 340 202 BP, B&B, SC, C&C Khali Hotel +266 22 326 526 H Rosetta Kamdun Lodge +27 (0)83 225 3053 SC Khotsong Lodge +266 22 310 100 L Tamakwa Country Lodge +27 (0)33 267 7154 SC, GH Lakeside Hotel +266 22 313 646 H The Wine Cellar +27 (0)33 267 7044 SC Lesotho Durham Link & Maseru Campsite +266 22 325 166 C&C Semonkong Semonkong Lodge +266 27 006 037 C&C, BP, SC, L Lesotho Durham Link Outdoor Activities Center +266 22 325 166 C&C, SC, BP, CF Sterkspruit Abecord Lodge +27 (0)73 730 6634 B&B, GH, CF Lesotho Sun Hotel and Casino +266 22 313 111 H, HS, CF Belle Gardens B&B +27 (0)51 611 1453 B&B, CF Mahloenyeng Lodge +266 58 731 277 L Ekhaya Luxury B&B +27 (0)51 611 1422 B&B Marakabei Lodge +266 22 312 653 L Hilltop Hotel +27 (0)51 611 0022 H Maseru Backpackers and Campsite +266 22 325 166 C&C, BP Mountain Valley Hill B&B +27 (0)83 265 7288 B&B, SC, CF Maseru Sun Hotel and Casino +266 22 312 434 H, CF Teyateyaneng Blue Mountain Inn +266 22 500 326 H, C&C Mmelesi Lodge +266 52 500 007 L Thaba Tseka Mashai Guest House +266 58 853 885 GH Mohale Lodge +266 22 936 432 L Mountain Star Lodge +266 22 900 415 L Molemo Guest House +266 22 331 376 GH Thaba Tseka Guest House +266 22 900 231 GH Molengoane Lodge +266 22 347 766 SC, B&B, CF, L Ugie The Country House +27 (0)45 933 1267 B&B, SC Mpilo Lodge +266 22 317 800 B&B, L Underberg Arbuckle House +27 (0)33 702 1990 B&B, SC Phomolo Guest House +266 22 333 384 GH, B&B, SC Bentwood Inn +27 (0)33 701 2920 B&B Tloung B&B +266 22 311 832 B&B Drakensberg Gardens Golf & Leisure Resort +27 (033 701 1355 B&B, C&C, SC, H, HS, CF Tribute Guest House +266 22 325 356 GH Eagle’s Rock Mountain Retreat +27 (0)33 701 1757 B&B, SC Matatiele Masakala Traditional Guesthouse +27 (0)39 737 3289 B&B, SC, GH, BP Ekuthuleni +27 (0)82 223 4404 SC Mehloding Hiking Trail +27 (0)39 737 3289 B&B, C&C, SC, L Elgin B&B +27 (0)33 701 1918 SC, B&B Resthaven Guest House +27 (0)39 737 4067 SC, B&B Far Horizon B&B +27 (0)33 701 2629 B&B, SC Matsieng Maluti Guest House +266 22 312 677 GH Giants Cup Wilderness Reserve +27 (0)33 701 1511 SC Memel Antique B&B +27 (0)58 924 0129 B&B Glenlea Log Cabin +27 (0)33 701 1692 SC Dumela Caravan Parks +27 (0)82 811 7062 C&C, SC Khotso Horse Trails +27 (0)33 701 1502 B&B, C&C, SC, L, BP La Gai-Roi +27 (0)58 924 0129 SC Lake Naverone +27 (0)33 701 1236 SC Mahem Guest House +27 (0)58 924 0034 SC, GH, BP Lotheni Nature Reserve +27 (0)33 702 0540 C&C, SC Pampoenspruit Heiberg +27 (0)84 945 3190 B&B, SC Mountain River Lodge +27 (0)82 562 5051 L Sandstone Mountain Retreat +27 (0)82 784 0168 SC Off-Road Adventures +27 (0)83 404 4422 SC Vogel’s Nest +27 (0)58 924 0129 SC Penwarn Country Lodges +27 (0)33 701 1777 SC, L, CF Wetlands Cottage +27 (0)82 784 0168 SC Pied Piper Expeditions +27 (0)33 701 1741 B&B, SC, GH Mohale’s Hoek Monateng Lodge +266 22 785 337 L Riverlea Farm +27 (0)33 701 1145 SC Mokhotlong Mokhotlong Hotel +266 22 920 212 H Rougham Farm Cottage +27 (0)33 701 1631 B&B, SC Molumong Lodge +27 (0)83 254 3323 C&C, SC, GH, BP, Hm Sherwood Shallows +27 (0)33 701 1120 SC Senqu Adventures +27 (0)83 443 6247 B&B, B&B, SC Silverstreams Country Estate +27 (0)82 859 8619 C&C, SC, BP, CF Senqu Hotel +266 22 920 330 H Stoneyhall Farm +27 (0)33 701 1883 SC Mooi River Drakensberg Excursions/Bergtrails +27 (0)33 267 7227 B&B, C&C, SC, BP Taylor’s B&B +27 (0)33 701 2011 B&B, SC Hartford House +27 (0)33 263 2713 H Teddington Adventure Farm +27 (0)39 747 4422 C&C, SC Morija Morija Guest Houses +266 63 065 093 C&C, GH, BP, CF Tumble Inn B&B +27 (0)33 701 1556 B&B Morija Museum and Archives +266 22 360 308 B&B, C&C, Hm, CF Underberg Hideaways +27 (0)33 343 1217 SC Newcastle Draaiwater Lodge +27 (0)34 341 1909 SC Valemount Country Lodge +27 (0)33 701 1686 B&B Nottingham Road Fordoun Leisure +27 (0)33 266 6217 H, CF, HS Winterton Acorn Cottages +27 (0)36 468 1674 B&B, SC Glengarry +27 (0)33 267 7225 C&C, SC, BP, CF Ardmore Guest Farm +27 (0)36 468 1314 B&B Prosperity Self Catering Cottages +27 (0)82 881 7261 SC Bridge Lodge +27 (0)36 488 1554 L Pitseng Ka Pitseng Guest House +266 22 501 638 GH Cathedral Peak Hotel +27 (0)36 488 1888 H, CF Palace Hotel +266 58 564 905 H Cathkin Cottage B&B +27 (0)36 468 1513 B&B Qacha’s Nek Anna’s B&B +266 22 950 374 B&B, GH Champagne Castle Hotel +27 (0)36 468 1063 H, SC, CF Letloepe Lodge +266 22 950 383 L, SC Champagne Sports Resort +27 (0)36 468 8000 H

136 the maloti drakensberg experience directory 137 nearest town establishment telephone accommodation Rest-a-While +27 (0)58 256 1126 Clocolan Ben Nevis Guest Farm +27 (0)51 943 0031 Clivia Hill Guest Cottage +27 (0)36 468 1684 SC Orsmond Guest Farm +27 (0)51 943 0291 Dragon Peaks Mountain Resort +27 (0)36 468 1031 C&C, SC, CF The Cabin Farm stall & Deli +27 (0)82 707 2894 Drakensberg Sun Hotel +27 (0)36 468 1000 H, CF Creighton Button Birding and Smithfi eld Guesthouse +27 (0)39 833 1029 Inkosona Lodge and Trekking +27 (0)36 468 1202 Hm Elliot Langburst Estate B&B +27 (0)45 931 2813 Lilac Cottage and Purple House +27 (0)36 488 1025 SC Langhurst B&B and Pub +27 (0)76 846 2842 Monks Cowl Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 468 1103 C&C Merino Hotel +27 (0)45 931 2987 Mountain Splendour Resort +27 (0)36 468 1172 C&C Mountain Shadows Hotel +27 (0)45 931 2233 Peak View Cottage +27 (0)36 468 1342 SC The Old Mill Inn +27 (0)45 971 0277 Rolling M Ranch +27 (0)83 489 7834 B&B, SC, GH, Hm Topiary B&B +27 (0)45 931 1384 Rose-Cottage B&B +27 (0)36 488 1049 B&B Estcourt Blue Haze Country Lodge +27 (0)36 352 5772 Sagarmatha-Monks Cowl Adventures +27 (0)72 664 2993 SC Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 353 3718 Spioenkop Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 488 1578 C&C, SC Monks Cowl Country Club +27 (0)36 468 1300 The Nest Hotel +27 (0) 36 468 1068 H Sewula Gorge Lodge +27 (0)36 352 2485 Treks, Trips and Trails +27 (0)36 488 1207 SC Willowgrange Hotel +27 (0)36 352 7102 Wits End Mountain Resort +27 (0)36 468 1133 SC Ficksburg Hoekfontein Ox-Wagon Camp +27 (0)51 933 3915 Moolmanshoek Private Game Reserve +27 (0)82 788 6623 Fouriesburg OVK Guest Farm +27 (0)58 223 0268 Shumba Valley Guest Farm +27 (0)58 223 0277 Harrismith Mont-Aux-Sources Hotel +27 (0)36 438 8000 Himeville Drakensberg Adventures +27 (0)33 702 0330 Himeville Arms Hotel +27 (0)33 702 1305 Louwlands B&B and Self Catering +27 (0)33 702 1204 3 places to eat Moorcroft Manor Country Hotel +27(0)33 702 1967 Sani Lodge +27 (0)33 702 0330 Aliwal North Aligeo Khaya B&B +27 (0)82 407 9406 Sani Top Chalets +27 (0)82 715 1131 Balmoral Guest Lodge +27 (0)51 633 2453 Sani Valley Flyfi shing & Game Lodge +27 (0)33 702 0203 Lekker Ou Jan B&B +27 (0)51 634 2656 Yellowwood Cottage +27 (0)82 055 0305 Howick Beverley Guest Farm +27 (0)33 234 4791 Lord Somerset Guest House +27 (0)51 634 1114 Kamberg Antbear Guest House +27 (0)36 352 3143 Riverside Lodge +27 (0)51 633 3282 Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse +27 (0)33 267 7243 Barkly East Bidstone Guest House +27 (0)45 974 9261 Kamberg Camp Nature Reserve +27 (0)33 267 7251 Edgehill Guest Farm +27 (0)82 558 2597 Riverside Cottages +27 (0)33 267 7245 Funnystone B&B +27 (0)45 974 9260 Kokstad Manora Guesthouse +27 (0)39 727 2963 Old Mill Inn +27 (0)45 971 0277 Oak Park +27 (0)39 727 2453 Reedsdell Country Guest Farm +27 (0)45 974 9900 Lady grey Anny’s Café +27 (0)51 603 0066 Siskin’s B&B +27 (0)45 974 9900 Art Explore +27 (0)82 895 6697 Tiffi ndell Ski Resort +27 (0)11 465 4370 Comfrey Cottage +27 (0)51 603 0407 Bergville ATKV Drakensville Mountain Resort +27 (0)36 438 6287 Mountain View Country Inn +27 (0)51 603 0421 Bingelela +27 (0)36 448 1336 Sterley House +27 (0)51 603 0182 Little Switzerland Resort +27 (0)36 438 6220 The Comfrey Cottage Collection +27 (0)51 603 0407 Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre +27 (0)72 712 2401 Ladybrand Country Lodge Hotel +27 (0)51 924 3209 Montusi Mountain Lodge +27 (0)36 438 6243 Groen Vinger Nursery and Waterfront Tea-Garden +27 (0)51 924 0314 Orion Mont-Aux-Sources +27 (0)36 438 8000 My Housy +27 (0)51 924 1010 Sandford Park Country Hotel +27 (0)36 448 1001 The Siding Game Lodge +27 (0)51 924 0280 Sungubala Mountain Bush Camp +27 (0)36 438 6000 Ladysmith Buller’s Rest Lodge +27 (0)36 637 6152 The Homestead +27 (0)36 448 1328 Heritage Guest House +27 (0)82 940 0650 Tower of Pizza +27 (0)36 438 6480 Peaches & Cream B&B +27 (0)36 631 0954 Botha Bothe Afriski Leisure Kingdom +27 (0)86 111 7111 Royal Hotel +27 (0)36 637 2176 Crocodile Inn +266 22 460 223 Spioenkop Lodge +27 (0)36 488 1404 Likeleng Village +266 22 460 686 Trenchgula Game Farm and Guest Lodge +27 (0)36 637 2700 Maliba Mountain Lodge +27 (0)31 266 6669 Mafeteng Malealea Lodge & Pony Trek Centre +27 (0)82 552 4215 Mamohase Rural Stay B&B +266 58 058 438 Maseru China Garden Restaurant +266 22 313 915 Mountain View Hotel/Leribe Hotel +266 22 400 559 Gateway Restaurant +266 22 312 513 Champagne Valley Bell Park +27 (0)36 468 1641 Good Times Café Restaurant +266 22 317 705 Clarens Basotho Cultural Village +27 (0)58 721 0300 J&E Cyaara Guest House +266 22 320 303 Been to Clarens Conferencing and Event Company +27 (0)83 239 1443 Lesotho Durham Link Outdoor Activities Center +266 22 325 166 Caledon Gardens +27 (0)58 223 0442 Lesotho Sun Hotel and Casino +266 22 313 111 Clarens Golf and Trout Villas +27 (0)83 292 5823 Maseru Sun Hotel and Casino +266 22 312 434 Destiny Explorations +27 (0)83 755 5511 Mediterranean Restaurant +266 22 312 960 Die Huisie +27 (0)58 863 1085 Mmelesi Lodge +266 52 500 007 Golden Gate Highlands National Park +27 (0)58 255 1000 Mohale Lodge +266 22 936 432 Red Mountain House +27 (0)58 256 1456 Molengoane Lodge +266 22 347 766

138 the maloti drakensberg experience directory 139 Mpilo Lodge +266 22 317 800 Rose-Cottage B&B +27 (0)36 488 1049 Rendevous (Lancers Inn) +266 22 312 114 Sagarmatha-Monks Cowl Adventures +27 (0)72 664 2993 The Regal (Basotho Hat) +266 22 313 930 The Nest Hotel +27 (0) 36 468 1068 The Sunset Restaurant +266 58 124 633 Thokozisa Lifestyle Centre +27 (0)36 488 1207 Tour Operator +266 22 321 829 Thokozisa Restaurant, Deli and Wine Cellar +27 (0)36 488 1827 Matatiele Masakala Traditional Guesthouse +27 (0)39 737 3289 Waffl e Hut +27 (0)36 488 1500 Mehloding Hiking Trail +27 (0)39 737 3289 Resthaven Guest House +27 (0)39 737 4067 Memel Mahem Guest House +27 (0)58 924 0034 Pampoenspruit Heiberg +27 (0)84 945 3190 Mohale’s Hoek Hotel Mount Maluti +266 22 785 224 Mokhotlong Mokhotlong Hotel +266 22 920 212 Mooi River Drakensberg Excursions/Bergtrails +27 (0)33 267 7227 Hartford House +27 (0)33 263 2713 Mooi River Country Club +27 (0)33 263 1517 4 places to shop Morija Morija Guest Houses +266 63 065 093 Morija Museum and Archives +266 22 360 308 nearest town product name telephone retail Nottingham Road Fordoun Leisure +27 (0)33 266 6217 Aliwal North Aligeo Khaya B&B +27 (0)82 407 9406 Craft/Curio Fort Nottingham Museum +27 (0)33 266 6482 Queens Terrace +27 (0)51 634 2291 Art Gallery Glengarry +27 (0)33 267 7225 Barkly East Millard Mountain Lodge +27 (0)45 971 9078 Horizon’s Gourmet Picnics +27 (0)33 267 7027 Tiffi ndell Ski Resort +27 (0)11 465 4370 Ski Shop, Internet Café Qacha’s Nek Anna’s B&B +266 22 950 374 Bergville ATKV Drakensville Mountain Resort +27 (0)36 438 6287 Craft/Curio, Bookshop, Sport Nthatuoa Hotel +266 22 950 260 Range Management +266 22 950 231 Easby Guest House +27 (0)36 448 1128 Craft/Curio Quthing Moroosi Chalets +27 (0)82 552 4215 Ezulwini Berg Resort +27 (0)36 438 6322 Craft/Curio, Sport Rhodes Rubicon Self Catering +27 (0)45 974 9268 Hlalanathi Drakensberg Resort +27 (0)36 438 6308 Craft/Curio Tenahead Mountain Reserve and Lodge +27 (0)45 971 8901 Mahai/Rugged Glen Camp Site +27 (0)36 438 6310 Craft/Curio Walkerbouts Inn +27 (0)45 974 9290 Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre +27 (0)72 712 2401 Craft/Curio Wild Flower Viewing +27 (0)72 291 5128 Montusi Mountain Lodge +27 (0)36 438 6243 Craft/Curio Rosetta Tamakwa Country Lodge +27 (0)33 267 7154 Orion Mont-Aux-Sources +27 (0)36 438 8000 Craft/Curio, Sport The Wine Cellar +27 (0)33 267 7044 Sungubala Mountain Bush Camp +27 (0)36 438 6000 Craft/Curio Semonkong Semonkong Lodge (Pty)Ltd +266 27 006 037 Thendele Camp Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 438 6411 Craft/Curio Sterkspruit Abecord Lodge +27 (0)73 730 6634 Tower of Pizza +27 (0)36 438 6480 Craft/Curio, Bookshop Belle Gardens B&B +27 (0)51 611 1453 Bethlehem Chameleon Ladies Boutique +27 (0)85 256 1550 Exclusive Ladies Clothing Hilltop Hotel +27 (0)51 611 0022 Botha-Bothe Afriski Leisure Kingdom +27 (0)86 111 7111 Craft/Curio, Ski Shop Mountain Valley Hill B&B +27 (0)83 265 7288 Clarens Caledon Flies +27 (0)58 256 1649 Fly-Fishing Flies Teyateyaneng Blue Mountain Inn +266 22 500 326 Clarens Village and Country Estates +27 (0)58 256 1631 Estate Agents Kome Cave Village And Visitors’ Center +266 58 444 383 Diana Reed Gallery +27 (0)58 256 1045 Art Gallery Thaba Tseka Mountain Star Lodge +266 22 900 415 Golden Gate Highlands National Park +27 (0)58 255 1000 Craft/Curio Underberg Bhengu’s B&B +27 (0)82 697 5731 Horeb Butchery +27 (0)58 256 1375 Butchery Drakensberg Gardens Golf & Leisure Resort +27 (0)33 7011 355 Mountain Odyssey +27 (0)58 256 1480 Craft/Curio, Art Gallery, Bookshop, Sport Eagle’s Rock Mountain Retreat +27 (0)33 701 1757 Red Mountain House +27 (0)58 256 1456 Craft/Curio Khotso Horse Trails +27 (0)33 701 1502 Rest-a-While +27 (0)58 256 1126 Craft/Curio, Art Gallery, Bookshop, Sport Lemon Tree Bistro +27 (0)33 701 1589 San Rock Guest House +27 (0)83 292 3371 Craft/Curio, Art Gallery, Bookshop, Sport Mountain River Lodge +27 (0)82 562 5051 Tina De Beer Gallery +27 (0)58 256 1071 Art Gallery Off-Road Adventures +27 (0)83 404 4422 Yarnology +27 (0)58 256 1377 Handspun, Hand-Dyed and Painted wool Rougham Farm Cottage +27 (0)33 701 1631 Clocolan Ben Nevis Guest Farm +27 (0)51 943 0031 Craft/Curio Shop, Cherry wine & liqour sales Silverstreams Country Estate +27 (0)82 859 8619 Makoadi B&B +27 (0)51 943 0273 Craft/Curio, Angora Rabbit Farm The Duck and Dolittle Restaurant and Animal Farm +27 (0)33 701 1176 The Cabin Farm stall & Deli +27 (0)82 707 2894 Craft/Curio Tumble Inn B&B +27 (0)33 701 1556 Creighton Button Birding and Smithfi eld Guesthouse +27 (0)39 833 1029 Craft/Curio, Sport Underberg Adventures +27 (0)82 494 9419 Elliot Elliot Beaders +27 (0)45 931 2860 Craft/Curio Valemount Country Lodge +27 (0)33 701 1686 Estcourt Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 353 3718 Craft/Curio, Bookshop Winterton Ardmore Guest Farm +27 (0)36 468 1314 Injisuthi Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 431 7848 Craft/Curio Bridge Lodge +27 (0)36 488 1554 Monks Cowl Country Club +27 (0)36 468 1300 Sport and recreation Canaan Cellars +27 (0)36 488 1619 Harrismith Mont-Aux-Sources Hotel +27 (0)36 438 8000 Craft/Curio Cathedral Peak Hotel +27 (0)36 488 1888 Himeville Chestnut Cottage +27 (0)82 926 8048 Sport and recreation Champagne Castle Hotel +27 (0)36 468 1063 Louwlands B&B and Self Catering +27 (0)33 702 1204 Craft/Curio, Bookshop, Sport and recreation, Museum, Pottery Studio, Cheese Factory, Farm stall Champagne Sports Resort +27 (0)36 468 8000 Reichenau Cultural and Eco-Tourism +27 (0)33 701 1735 Craft/Curio Clivia Hill Guest Cottage +27 (0)36 468 1684 Sani Lodge +27 (0)33 702 0330 Craft/Curio, Bookshop Dragon Peaks Mountain Resort +27 (0)36 468 1031 Sani Pass Quad Tours +27 (0)72 425 5230 Sport and recreation Drakensberg Sun Hotel +27 (0)36 468 1000 Sani Top Chalets +27 (0)82 715 1131 Craft/Curio Inkosona Lodge and Trekking +27 (0)36 468 1202 Sani Valley Flyfi shing & Game Lodge +27 (0)33 702 0203 Craft/Curio, fl yfi shing shop Monks Cowl Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 468 1103 St James Lodge +27 (0)33 326 1601 Craft/Curio Mountain Splendour Resort +27 (0)36 468 1172 Hlotse Leribe Craft Centre +266 22 400 323 Craft/Curio, mohair products Rolling M Ranch +27 (0)83 489 7834

140 the maloti drakensberg experience directory 141 nearest town product name telephone retail Howick Africa Antiqua +27 (0)33 330 7729 Craft/Curio 5 annual festivals and events Kamberg Antbear Guest House +27 (0)36 352 3143 Craft/Curio Kamberg Camp Nature Reserve +27 (0)33 267 7251 Craft/Curio january september Lady Grey Art Explore +27 (0)82 895 6697 Art Gallery Decotex Designer Couches +27 (0)51 603 0478 Designer couches Mini Roof Enduro for off-road motorcycles, +266 58 022 440 Lesotho Sun 400 for off-road cars, +266 58 022 440 (Lesotho) Mountain View Country Inn +27 (0)51 603 0421 Craft/Curio, Art Gallery (Lesotho) Morija Arts and Cultural Festival, +266 58 858 662 (Lesotho) Ladybrand Ladybrand Hospice +27 (0)82 855 5782 Craft/Curio february Asparagus Festival in Fouriesburg, +27 (0)58 223 0028 (Free State) My Housy +27 (0)51 924 1010 Art Gallery Basotho Cultural Village Traditional Dancing competition (Free State) Ladysmith Royal Hotel +27 (0)36 637 2176 Craft/Curio Surrender Hill Marathon in Fouriesburg, +27 (0)58 223 0028 (Free State) Lammergeyer Half-marathon at Lady Grey, +27 (0)51 603 7034 Mafeteng Malealea Lodge & Pony Trek Centre +27 (0)82 552 4215 Craft/Curio (North Eastern Cape) Seithati Weavers +266 22 313 975 mohair products Rhodes Quad and Scrambler rally, +27 (0)45 974 9277 Pajero Ladies Flyfi shing Festival at Ugie, +27 (0)45 931 2442 Maseru Lesotho Sun Hotel and Casino +266 22 313 111 Craft/Curio (North Eastern Cape) (North Eastern Cape) Lesotho Tourism Information, Thaba Bosiu +266 22 357 207 Craft/Curio, Lesotho souvenirs / memorabilia Water Sports Festival at Gariep Dam, www.bethulie.com Mont-Aux-Sources Challenge, +27 (0)82 548 5917 (KwaZulu-Natal) Maseru Sun Hotel and Casino +266 22 312 434 Craft/Curio (North Eastern Cape) Seilatsatsi B&B +266 58 852 284 Craft/Curio Thrombi Xtreme-Fest (2 day Multi Sport race) +27 (0)72 151 3907 Underberg Agricultural Show, +27 (0)33 701 1007 (KwaZulu-Natal) Matatiele Masakala Traditional Guesthouse +27 (0)39 737 3289 Craft/Curio (KwaZulu-Natal) Lynford Classic - mountain biking event, +27 (0)39 834 1832 Mehloding Hiking Trail +27 (0)39 737 3289 Craft/Curio Hansa Powerade Drak Challenge Canoe Race, www.canoesa.org.za (KwaZulu-Natal) Memel Dumela Caravan Parks +27 (0)82 811 7062 Art Gallery (KwaZulu-Natal) La Gai-Roi +27 (0)58 924 0129 Museum october Mahem Guest House +27 (0)58 924 0034 Craft/Curio march Lesotho Tourism Visit your Country First Fun Walk, +266 22 312 238 Vogel’s Nest +27 (0)58 924 0129 Museum Moshoeshoe’s Day Celebrations at Thaba Bosiu, +266 22 311 280 (Lesotho) Morija Morija Guest Houses +266 63 065 093 Craft/Curio, Bookshop (Lesotho) Platberg Mountain Race, +27 (0)58 622 1412 (Free State) Morija Museum and Archives +266 22 360 308 Craft/Curio, Bookshop Maseru Cultural Festival (Lesotho) Green Lantern 21 km Race, +27 (0)58 622 1412 (Free State) Newcastle Draaiwater Lodge +27 (0)34 341 1909 Farm stall, fresh products Bell’s Whisky Wild Trout Festival, +27 (0)45 974 9277 Rhodes Mountain Bike Challenge, +27 (0)45 974 9277 Nottingham Road Fordoun Leisure +27 (0)33 266 6217 Spa and Beauty products (North Eastern Cape) (North Eastern Cape) Fort Nottingham Museum +27 (0)33 266 6482 Craft/Curio, Art Gallery Wartrail Tri-Challenge – run, cycle, canoe, +27 (0)45 971 9078 Rhodes Tenahead Mountain Reserve and Lodge +27 (0)45 971 8901 Craft/Curio (North Eastern Cape) november The Old Barn +27 (0)84 867 8174 Craft/Curio, Art Gallery Didima Challenge – run, mountain bike, www.didimax.org Lesotho Sun Roof of Africa (off-road motorcycles and cars), Wild Flower Viewing +27 (0)72 291 5128 Craft/Curio (KwaZulu-Natal) +266 58 022 440 (Lesotho) Rosetta The Wine Cellar +27 (0)33 267 7044 Wine Store Sani to Sea mountain bike race, www.sani2c.co.za (KwaZulu-Natal) Cherry Festival at Ficksburg, www.cherryfestival.co.za (Free State) Semonkong Semonkong Lodge (Pty)Ltd +266 27 006 037 Craft/Curio Sterkfontein Longhaul Sailing challenge, +27 (0)58 622 3520 Sterkspruit Hilltop Hotel +27 (0)51 611 0022 Craft/Curio april (Free State) Teyateyaneng Kome Cave Village And Visitors’ Center +266 58 444 383 Craft/Curio Bergville to Ladysmith Race, +27 (0)36 468 1012 (KwaZulu-Natal) Wartrail 100 km adventure race, +27 (0)45 971 9078 Underberg Bentwood Inn +27 (0)33 701 2920 Craft/Curio, Art Gallery, Bookshop, Sport, Music in the Mountains, +27 (0)36 468 1012 (KwaZulu-Natal) (North Eastern Cape) Drakensberg Gardens Golf & Leisure Resort +27 (0)33 7011 355 Craft/Curio, Sport Wartrail skyrun eco-challenge 140 km, +27 (0)45 971 9078 Lotheni Nature Reserve +27 (0)33 702 0540 Craft/Curio Splashy Fen Music Festival, www.splashyfen.co.za (KwaZulu-Natal) (North Eastern Cape) Major Adventures +27 (0)33 701 1628 Craft/Curio, may Pied Piper Expeditions +27 (0)33 701 1741 Bookshop WFO National Enduro, www.enduronatalwfo.co.za (KwaZulu-Natal) Rougham Farm Cottage +27 (0)33 701 1631 Craft/Curio, Art Gallery 25 km Sterkfontein Race, +27 (0)58 622 1412 (Free State) Sani Stagger Endurance Race, www.sanistagger.com (KwaZulu-Natal) Silverstreams Country Estate +27 (0)82 859 8619 Craft/Curio, Bookshop, Sport Bethulie around Lake Gariep Cycling Event, www.bethulie.com Teddington Adventure Farm +27 (0)39 747 4422 Butchery (North Eastern Cape) december The Duck and Dolittle Rest. & Animal Farm +27 (0)33 701 1176 Craft/Curio, Bookshop, African Art, Candles, etc Kamberg Trout Festival, +27 (0)33 267 7028 (KwaZulu-Natal) Durham Link Adventure Fun Walk and Canoeing, +266 63 069 469 (Lesotho) Tumble Inn B&B +27 (0)33 701 1556 Craft/Curio, Art Gallery, Bookshop, Underberg Winter Horse Trials, +27 (0)33 701 1565 (KwaZulu-Natal) Valemount Country Lodge +27 (0)33 701 1686 Craft/Curio , Art Gallery, Bookshop, Sport Tourism Jazz Festival and Tour, +266 58 731 243 (Lesotho) Winterton Ardmore Guest Farm +27 (0)36 468 1314 Craft/Curio, Art Gallery june High Altitude Summer Marathon, +266 58 078 164 (Lesotho) Canaan Cellars +27 (0)36 488 1619 Hot air balloon championship at Bethlehem, +27 (0)58 303 5732 Rhodes 100 km adventure race, +27 (0)45 974 9277 Cathedral Peak Hotel +27 (0)36 488 1888 Craft/Curio (Free State) (North Eastern Cape) Cathkin Cottage B&B +27 (0)36 468 1513 Craft/Curio Wartrail Mountain Bike Challenge, +27 (0)45 971 9078 Champagne Sports Resort +27 (0)36 468 8000 Art Gallery july (North Eastern Cape) Clivia Hill Guest Cottage +27 (0)36 468 1684 Craft/Curio, Art Gallery, Bookshop, Sport HM King’s Birthday Celebrations (Lesotho) Festival of Carols, +27 (0)36 468 1012 (KwaZulu-Natal) Dragon Peaks Mountain Resort +27 (0)36 468 1031 Craft/Curio Rhodes Marathon, +27 (0)45 974 9277 (North Eastern Cape) Bergville to Winterton 23 km Run, +27 (0)72 179 5195 Drakensberg Sun Hotel +27 (0)36 468 1000 Craft/Curio, Sport Drak 250 Off-Road Motor Race, +27 (0)82 965 0094 (KwaZulu-Natal) (KwaZulu-Natal) Kakadu and Karoo +27 (0)36 488 1010 Clothing Drakensberg Triathlon, +27 (0)82 381 8844 (KwaZulu-Natal) Monks Cowl Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 468 1103 Craft/Curio Polar Bear Swim at Dragon Peaks, +27 (0)82 828 0401 (KwaZulu-Natal) Mountain Splendour Resort +27 (0)36 468 1172 Craft/Curio , Bookshop Sani Pass Transfrontier Mountain Bike Epic, San Rock Ridge Tours +27 (0)36 488 1137 Craft/Curio www.drakensbergmtb.co.za (KwaZulu-Natal) august Spioenkop Nature Reserve +27 (0)36 488 1578 Craft/Curio , Refreshments, Wood, Coal Cattle Racing at Teyateyaneng, +266 58 078 164 (Lesotho) varied times of the year Tammy-Jane’s Berg Living +27 (0)36 488 1557 Board Games, Body Products, Interior décor The Nest Hotel +27 (0) 36 468 1068 Winterton Museum Basotho Cultural Village Monyanyako competition, TCFF/Bell Sterkfontein Experience (fl y-fi shing festival), +27 (0)12 371 9425 (Free State) Thokozisa Lifestyle Centre +27 (0)36 488 1207 Craft/Curio, Art Gallery +27 (0)58 713 0012) (Free State) Thokozisa Restaurant, Deli and Wine Cellar +27 (0)36 488 1827 Bethulie Off-Road Cycle Race, www.bethulie.com Treks, Trips and Trails +27 (0)36 488 1207 Art Gallery (North Eastern Cape) Wild Sky Paragliding, www.wildsky.co.za (KwaZulu-Natal)

142 the maloti drakensberg experience directory 143 ❮❮❮ see travel tips inside this flap 6 tourism information offi ces

information offi ce telephone address In May 2006 a historic agreement was signed between the agencies

Maloti Route Info +27 (0)51 924 5131 www.malotiroute.co.za; [email protected] responsible for tourism development and marketing in the Maloti

KwaZulu-Natal Drakensberg Mountain Region. They are now working together to Boston Bulwer Beat +27 (0)33 234 1909 www.bostonbulwerbeat.kzn.org.za develop a common branding for the region. The agencies are: Eastern Central Drakensberg Info Centre +27 (0)36 488 1207 www.cdic.co.za; [email protected] Cape Tourism Board, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, Free State Tourism Authority, East Griqualand Tourist Info +27 (0)39 747 9077 Lesotho Tourism Development Corporation, South African National Explore East Griqualand +27 (0)39 727 4444 www.eastgriqualand.kzn.org.za Ingwe Municipality +27 (0)39 833 1038 [email protected] Parks and Tourism KwaZulu-Natal. This book embodies the spirit of that Kamberg Valley Tourism +27 (0)33 267 7028/440 www.kambergtourism.co.za; [email protected] agreement which has now manifested itself in the creation of the Maloti Kokstad Community Tourism +27 (0)83 349 4302 [email protected] Drakensberg Route. Ladysmith Tourism +27 (0)36 637 2992 www.ladysmith.co.za; [email protected] Matatiele +27 (0)39 737 4041 Okhahlamba Drakensberg Tourism +27 (0)36 448 1244 www.drakensberg.za.org; [email protected] Southern Berg Escape Tourism +27 (0)33 701 1471 www.drakensberg.org; [email protected] Southern Midlands (Ixopo) +27 (0)39 834 2271 Thokozisa Lifestyle Centre +27 (0)36 488 1207 Umtshezi Tourism (Drakensberg) +27 (0)36 352 6253 www.mtshezi.co.za; [email protected] North Eastern Cape Aliwal North +27 (0)51 633 3567 Barkly East +27 (0)82 900 8362 www.barklyeast.co.za; [email protected] Lady Grey Tourism +27 (0)51 603 0176 www.ladygreytourism.co.za; [email protected] Senqu Tourism (Lady Grey) +27 (0)51 603 0160 www.senqutourism.co.za; [email protected] Umzimkhulu Tourist Info +27 (0)39 259 0802 Free State Clarens Destination +27 (0)58 256 1344 www.goclarens.co.za; [email protected] Clarens Tourism Information +27 (0)58 256 1173 Ficksburg +27 (0)51 933 2130 Fouriesburg +27 (0)58 223 0925 [email protected] Ladybrand +27 (0)51 924 5131 [email protected] Maluti-a-Phofung +27 (0)58 622 3525 malutiaphofung.fs.gov.za Memel Getaways +27 (0)58 924 0400 www.memelgetaways.co.za; [email protected] Mountain Odyssey +27 (0)58 256 1173 www.infoclarens.com; [email protected] Lesotho Airport Shuttle Services +266 58 855 527 Motseki Travel and Tours +266 58 064 549 Natural Development Tours +266 58 451 086 Seforong Tours +266 62 002 666 [email protected] Sematsatsa Tours +266 58 851 962 [email protected] T-Connexion Tours +266 62 861 361 [email protected] Tour Operator’s Association of Lesotho +266 63 050197 [email protected]

144 the maloti drakensberg experience travel tips for the maloti drakensberg region

Eastern Cape Tourism Board +27 (0)43 701 9600 www.ectb.co.za, [email protected] lesotho south africa Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife currency Maloti (M), divided into 100 lisente (cents), have currency The Rand (R) is divided into 100 cents. Most +27 (0)33 845 1999 an equivalent value to South African rand which are used traveller’s cheques are accepted at banks and at some shops www.kznwildlife.com; [email protected] interchangeably in Lesotho. Note that Maloti are not accepted and hotels. Major credit cards are accepted in most towns. Free State Tourism Authority in South Africa in place of rand. banks All towns will have at least one bank. Open Mon to Fri: +27 (0)51 411 4300 Traveller’s cheques and major credit cards are generally 09h00–15h30, Sat: 09h00–11h00. Autobanks (or ATMs) are www.dteea.fs.gov.za accepted in Maseru. All foreign currency exchange should be found in most towns and operate on a 24-hour basis. Lesotho Tourism Development Corporation (LTDC) conducted in Maseru. language South Africa has 11 offi cial languages. Most people +266 22 312 238 banks There are three commercial banks – Standard Bank, can speak some English. www.ltdc.org.ls; [email protected] NedBank and Lesotho Bank – offering exchange services telephones All towns have modern telephone services. Tourism KwaZulu-Natal in their Maseru branches. Open Weekdays (excl Wed): Cellular reception is good in most towns and coverage +27 (0)31 366 7500 08h30–15h30, Wed: 08h30–13h00, Sat: 08h30–11h00. extends to many rural areas. Roaming agreements exist www.zulu.org.za; [email protected] or language The offi cial languages are Sesotho and English. Many with international mobile phone companies. To call within South African National Parks Basotho can speak English. South Africa dial the three digit area code (starting with a 0) +27 (0)12 426 5000 telephones Services are available in main towns. Automatic followed by the number. To reach an international number www.sanparks.com trunk services operate between Lesotho and South Africa. dial 00 followed by the country code. South Africa’s country Satellite connections are also available to some countries. code is +27 weather Generally sunny, with cold, dry winters Cell phone roaming is available for South African visitors, but postal services Post services are available in most towns. and hot, wet summers. In high-lying areas not yet with other countries. Cellular reception is good in the Open Mon to Fri: 08h30–16h30, Sat: 08h00–11h30. Some temperatures fl uctuate enormously, even in lowlands. International numbers from Lesotho are dialed with close for lunch from 13:00–14:00. Numerous courier services summer. Snow has been recorded in every 00 followed by the country code. Lesotho’s code is +266. are also available. month of the year. Winters (May to July) can be postal services Post offi ces are open Mon to Fri 08h00–16h30, air travel The national airline is South African Airways (SAA) extremely cold and snowy. Summer (December Sat 08h00–12h00. (website: www.fl ysaa.com). Many other airlines operate in to February) can get very hot. Summer and spring air travel SA Air Link (Tel +266 22 350 418/9) fl ies between South Africa and offer frequent fl ights from all over the world. are characterized by frequent thunder storms. Moshoeshoe I International Airport (Maseru) and OR Tambo OR Tambo International Airport (in Johannesburg) is the main International Airport (Johannesburg). Sun–Fri: 3 fl ights a day; South African airport; connect to Moshoeshoe I International standard time The whole region is 2 hours ahead of Sat: 4 fl ights. Lesotho also has 27 airstrips. Airport in Lesotho, or to Durban, Bloemfontein or East London, Greenwich Mean Time (GMT +2). road travel Most of the gravel roads are in good condition. The among others. extreme topography does mean that most roads, especially in road travel South African roads are mostly tarred, and public holidays the highlands, have sharp bends and steep hills, resulting in generally in good condition. Rural roads may require caution. New Year’s Day 1 Jan slower than anticipated progress. petrol and diesel Petrol and diesel are available in most South Moshoeshoe’s Day (Lesotho) 11 Mar car hire There are car and 4x4 rental companies based in African towns. Human Rights Day (SA) 21 Mar Maseru, including Avis, Budget and Imperial. driving licences International driving permits are recognized Good Friday Variable driving licences International driving permits are recognized in South Africa. Driving licences from most countries are also Easter Monday Variable in Lesotho. Driving licences issued in most countries are also valid for up to twelve months. They should be printed in Ascension Day (Lesotho) Variable valid, up to a period of 6 months. They should be printed in English, or accompanied by a certifi ed translation. Africa/Hero’s Day (Lesotho) 25 May English, or accompanied by a certifi ed translation. car hire To hire a car, travellers must have held a valid driving Freedom Day (SA) 27 Apr petrol and diesel Petrol and diesel are available in larger license for fi ve years. Most airports offer car hire facilities. Worker’s Day 1 May towns. It is advisable to fi ll up when you see a pump, rather National contact numbers for some of the main car rental Youth Day (SA) 16 Jun than waiting until your tank is nearly empty. companies are: Avis: +27 (0)861 021 111, Budget: King’s Birthday (Lesotho) 17 Jul taxis There are a number of private taxi companies operating +27 (0)861 016 622, Hertz: +27 (0)861 600 136, Imperial Car National Women’s Day (SA) 9 Aug in Maseru. Contact the Lesotho Tourism Development Rental: +27 (0)861 131 000, Europcar: +27 (0)860 011 344 Heritage Day (SA) 24 Sep Corporation (LTDC) for more information. visa requirements All foreign visitors are required to carry a Independence Day (Lesotho) 4 Oct visa requirements Non-citizens must carry a passport. Visas are passport. Visas are required unless your country has a visa Christmas Day 25 Dec required unless your country has a visa abolition agreement abolition agreement with South Africa. Please contact your Boxing/Family Day (Lesotho/SA) 26 Dec with Lesotho (contact your Lesotho Embassy). Upon entering nearest South African Embassy. the country you will be granted a one-month stay. Extensions police +27 10111 can be applied for at the Immigration Offi ce in Maseru hospitals Medical facilities are good in urban areas, but more +266 22 323 771. limited elsewhere. Many doctors and hospitals require police Headquarters in Maseru +266 5888 1010 immediate cash payment. Comprehensive health insurance hospitals Q Elizabeth II (Maseru): +266 22 312 501, Maseru is recommended. A leafl et on health precautions is available Private: +266 22 313 260, Leribe: +266 22 400 305, Paray from the South African High Commission. (Thaba Tseka): +266 22 900 256, Mohale Dam Private: +266 22 936 228, Katse Dam Private: +266 22 910 348 exploring the maloti drakensberg route

the maloti drakensberg experience

The dramatic Maloti and Drakensberg mountain ranges form the high point of the southern African escarpment. This is a living landscape that bursts with natural and cultural splendours - from rare and unique alpine fl owers to internationally acclaimed rock art. It is home to an exciting and vibrant fusion of peoples – renowned for their warmth and hospitality. The mountains abound with exciting activities for the lone traveller and families alike: hikes and walks ● fl y fi shing ● rock art ● dinosaur fossils ● rare birds ● fl oral splendour ● fascinating cultures ● engineering exploits ● pony trekking ● adventure sports. This book offers a unique guide to the Maloti Drakensberg Route in Lesotho and South Africa. It provides practical travel information and maps, highlights the must-see attractions and includes a comprehensive directory of places to stay, eat and visit.