DEATH VALLEY VISITOR CHfJIRES

DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL MONUMENT FREE Spring & Summer 1988

Rare and Wonderful to Behold by Barbara Moritsch be the result of several different Death Valley has long been situations. Some endemics are recognized as one of the hottest recently evolved species that and driest places in North Ameri­ have not had sufficient time to ca. Armed with this information, spread and increase their range. the first-time visitor may find it dif­ These plants may have evolved ficult to believe that any form of in response to changing climatic life, either plant or animal, can conditions as Death Valley gra­ live in this harsh environment. dually became hotter and drier. At first glance when driving Other recently developed spe­ through the monument one rec­ cies may be very specific in their ognizes that plants do, indeed, requirements for growth and live here, but they are few in num­ simply cannot establish them­ ber and there is not a great deal of selves in other places. variety. Or is there? In fact, more Some species may have previ­ than 970 species of plants have ously been more widespread but been identified in Death Valley a changing environment may National Monument. have restricted them to specific The monument encompasses areas where conditions are suit­ over two million acres and ranges able for their survival. in elevation from 282 feet below If a plant species has a very sea level at Badwater to 11,049 restricted range, it automatically feet above sea level at Telescope becomes subject to extinction. Peak. This large size and range Any changes that occur in its of elevations provides a wide var­ habitat, either natural or human- iety of environments in which caused, have the potential to plants can become established. completely eliminate the species. Species have different require­ For this reason, many of the ments for growth with respect to endemics are designated by the sunlight, temperature, moisture, federal government as "endan­ salinity and soil and many diffe­ gered" (in danger of extinction rent combinations of these throughout all or a significant por- requirements can be found within tion of their range) or the monument. "threatened" (likely to become endangered in the forseeable Gold is where you find it Most of Death Valley's plant future throughout all or a signific­ species can also be found in ant portion of their range). by Lex Palmer host to a wide variety of floral resi­ other parts of the state, country or the purple mat has resulted in These sensitive plants, as well The name Death Valley dents. The annual wildflower pro­ world. There are a few, though, observations of prostrate botani­ as all of the features within the evokes images of lost treasure duction begins at the lower eleva­ for which Death Valley alone is cal prospectors in search of the monument, are protected. and mines with names such as tions, flowing upward as spring home. Fifteen species are found elusive "belly plants." A floral Please remember to leave them Confidence, Eureka, and Gold temperatures rise. The primary argonaut needs to be armed with exclusively within the boundaries undisturbed for the continued Valley. This spring a multitude of factors influencing wildflower dis­ a trusty camera, hand lens, and of the monument. These plants enjoyment of all visitors. modern-day prospectors travels tribution are altitude, moisture, wildflower guidebook, rather than are referred to as "endemic," to the valley of death to stake temperature, and soil makeup. pick and shovel. Prospectors which means they are restricted Bebw are five species of plants claims on the yellow-gold of the An El Dorado of brilliant blos­ must be mindful that collecting is in their range to a certain locality. endemic to the Death Valley region, Panamint daisy and desert gold- not allowed in the National Park their descriptions, and areas where soms may take place merely An additional 21 species are con­ they may be seen. poppy. once a decade. This rare re­ System—wildflowers may be sidered endemic to the Death Death Valley witnesses a floral source of color is nurtured with a gathered only through cameras Valley region, which includes Desert Bearpoppy show every spring. The botanical superabundance of winter mois­ or art supplies. areas outside the monument (Poppy family) Arctomecon merriamii rule of thumb for a luxurious wild- ture which rouses the dormant boundaries. Plants do not recog­ This plant has large white flowers on flower display requires rainfall to seed population and dissolves The winter rains of 1987-88 nize the arbitrary boundaries stems with basal leaves. The leaves exceed the annual norm of 1.75 seed coatings. These seeds con­ with their Midas-like touch will designated by land-use mana­ and buds are densely covered with inches by a factor of 100-150 per­ tain elements which prevent awaken these slumbering nug­ gers. Therefore, it is more valu­ long, silvery hairs, thus the name cent. This season should prove to untimely germination from a gets of color. These botanical able to identify endemism in a "bearpoppy." It is found in higher washes and canyons, growing on be exceptional due to the fact that passing cloudburst. portraits will stream through specific environment or region current area precipitation is in dolomitic limestone soils, and has Springtime in Death Valley Death Valley in shades of the gol- rather than within park or monu­ been seen around Lost Burro Gap, excess of 4 inches. brings reports of eccentric beha­ deneye, desert gold, and desert ment boundaries. Ubehebe Lead Mine (off Racetrack Because of the different eleva­ vior on the part of those in search globemallow. This spring, the gift Why do these plants exist only Road), and in ca r/ons to the east of tions included in Death Valley of this organic art exhibit. The Lil­ of liquid gold will unveil an in this region of the Mojave the Panamint Mountains. National Monument, the region is liputian scale of plants such as ephemeral treasure trove. Desert? Restricted ranges can Continued on page 2 Features

Rare & Wonderful... by Mel Essington previously unprofitable venture (Continued from page 1) Mining in Death Valley such as Gold Bar. The talc mines The first recognition of gold in Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow of Death Valley, long aloof from this area by the early I849ers outside influences, provided con­ resulted in a nearly continuous stant profit for their owners for history of mineral exploration that establishment of any newmineral recognition of their economic many uninterrupted years. Their persists in the Death Valley area interests within the National Park potential, as the ever constant long run, however, seems to today. Much of Death Valley's System, but provides for the rea­ tides of fortune may turn in their have come to its inevitable end in history is a direct result of its men, sonable rights of those claims favor. A significant number of Death Valley. Mine production women and mines. Indeed, the established prior to the Act. Thus, others are being donated to the from other states has been establishment of the National Congress has permitted some National Park Service for stabili­ deemed more profitable by the Monument itself is directly attri­ mining to continue. There are zation and interpretation as they current owners and the Death butable to them and mining con­ over 200 valid claims in Death become liabilities for their own­ Valley mines, after about 75 Panamint Daisy tinues to play a significant role in Valley, and one active mine at ers, who may also see the value years of continuous production, (Sunflower family) Death Valley. this time. in giving such a gift to the Ameri­ are being shut down. Two, in the Enceliopsis covillei The flamboyant, speculative, can public. Warm Springs Canyon area, Large, showy flowers on stems 12 Despite the establishment of ceased production in 1987 and and erratic history of mining inches or more in length characterize the Mining in the Parks Act of It is not unheard of for a once- completed the required reclama­ this plant. They are usually found on found throughout the world was September 26,1976, active min­ promising claim to be forgotten tion work stipulated by the Park dry, rocky ledges and are most com­ ing does exist in Death Valley as also common to Death Valley. All and many years later revived by mon on the western slope of the Service. well as several other National the riches-seekers, prospectors, new mining interests. The Gold Panamint Mountains. They have Borates, the earliest of the been seen in Pleasant and Surprise Park units. The Act prohibited the financiers, conmen, honest work­ Bar claims (located in the Nevada canyons as well as on the approach ers, shrewd businessmen, and Triangle portion of Death Valley economically stable but less gla­ to Wildrose from Panamint Valley. adventurous entrepreneurs that National Monument) were origi­ morous minerals in this region, 1988 Entrance Fees mining attracted trooped up and nally recorded in 1905. They have also succumbed to outside down the length and breadth of were mined until 1908 and then pressures. Cheaper production Looking for a vacation bargain the Valley and its environs. Gold lay fallow for nearly 80 years from mines in Boron, California, in 1988? Starting this year, a fee and silver were always the most when new interest was gener­ and western Turkey have forced of $5 per vehicle will entitle visi­ ated in them. In 1987, after the shutdown of once- tors to enter and enjoy Death Val­ sought and least found, as nature has intended. With few excep­ lengthy negotiations with new prosperous Death Valley mines. ley National Monument for seven Unlike other mine owners, how­ tions, however, less glamorous owners, the Park Service days. ever, the owners of the borate minerals such as boron and talc approved a plan of operation for a Initially, this may not sound like mines intend to maintain them provided the greater financial new mine on those claims. The such a bargain - visits to Death with the reasonable knowledge gain to those who toiled after Gold Bar claims are once again in Golden Carpet Valley have been free since the production and will remain so for that the tides of fortune will once (Buckwheat family) them. monument's establishment in several years if the expectations again make them profitable. Gilmania luteola 1933. Consider, though, that your As the people and mines came A small, prostrate annual plant with of the current owners are con­ Some of the mines are being held entrance fee grants you access and went, they left behind not in a state of readiness awaiting minute yellow flowers. Golden carpet only a rich history, but interesting firmed. is restricted to a few washes in the to the second largest National the word to resume mining at monument, including Gower Gulch Park Service area in the conti­ sites for us to visit and speculate The erratic nature of mining is some distant date. Others are and the Artist's Drive area. This spe­ guous United States. At over 2 about the conditions under which a direct reflection of national and being given long-range consider­ cies is only seen in wetter years. million acres, you can see all of they labored and lived. Not all of world economics. Recent ation for the application of dif­ Death Valley at a cost of only one the sites were abandoned, as advances in mining technology ferent mining technology to bring cent per 4,135 acres. That's a some mines continue to this day. and mineral value once again great deal for backcountry enthu­ Others wait for a new or renewed send men to seek the riches of a Continued on page 7 siasts, but even if your sightsee­ ing plans limit you to paved monument roads, you can Death Valley Natural History Association explore the entire valley for two The Death Valley Natural History Association is a non-profit educational organization dedicated to the pre­ pennies per mile. Interested in servation and interpretation of the natural and human history of Death Valley National Monument. The coopera­ geology? Your entrance fee will tion of the Association with the National Park Service is authorized by Public Law. challenge you to spot nearly 30 Death Valley Natural History Association publishes and distributes descriptive park literature and furnishes separate rock formations. personnel, equipment and supplies to support the interpretive work of the National Park Service. Proceeds from the Association's sales are used to produce new educational publications and to aid National Park Service prog­ Rocklady Maurandya Why the new entrance fee rams. (Figwort family) program? Congress has author­ Holmgrenanthe petrophila Membership in the Association is available to any person who has a sincere interest and desire to advance This small plant exhibits pale yellow ized the National Park Service to the aims and purposes of the Association. flowers with deeper yellow throats, use fees to supplement park As a member you receive the following: and leaves with toothed margins. It budgets. Here in Death Valley, 1. 15% discount on all purchases. grows in very few locations, usually part of your entrance fee will help 2. Official Association emblem patch. (Lifetime member patch) hanging in the crevices of limestone expand visitor services and step 3. Bi-annual park newsletter (first publication Spring 1985). cliffs. It has been seen in the Titus up resource protection projects. 4. First offering on all new publications. Canyon area. The following entrance fees TYPES OF MEMBERSHIP Death Valley sage can be paid at the Furnace Creek INDIVIDUAL MEMBERSHIP FAMILY MEMBERSHIP SPECIAL MEMBERSHIP (Mint family) Visitor Center and ranger sta­ One year $ 5.00 One year $10.00 Corporate $100.00 annual Salvia funerea Five year $ 15.00 Five year $30.00 Senior Citizen $10.00 A shrub 2-3 feet high with clusters of tions at Stovepipe Wells and Lifetime $100.00 (one time) (62 or over) small purple-blue flowers. The flow­ Grapevine: Please include payment with application either by check made payable to DEATH VALLEY NATURAL HIS­ ers are partially surrounded at the Single visit per motor vehicle TORY ASSOCIATION or by credit card. $10.00 minimum on credit cards. base by a white wooly layer of hairs. It $5. Valid for 7 days. is found at lower elevations including Single visit per bicyclist or pe­ Mastercard Visa Account No ' Titus Canyon, Hole-ln-The-Rock destrian - $2.00. Valid for 7 Spring, and canyons of the southern Expiration Date : Signature , , Funeral Mountains. days. Annual Area Pass - $15.00. If you have any further questions MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION about the flora of the area, please Valid Jan. 1 through Dec. 31 stop at the Furnace Creek Visitor for entry into Death Valley NAME , Center. A handout is available with National Monument. ADDRESS additional information about the Golden Eagle Passport-$25.00. endemic plants of the region. Valid Jan. 1 through Dec. 31 CITY ! STATE ZIP ; for entry into recreation fee Reports or your sightings are always All dues and contributions are tax deductible to the extent they exceed benefits. welcome. areas across the country. Features General management plan Improved campgrounds, visi­ mineral development. Valid gered species as a result of the tor information services and rights of the owners would be rec­ draft plan or alternatives. Mitigat­ roads are being considered in the ognized until these rights could ing actions are proposed to general management plan for be acquired. reduce existing effects (such as Death Valley National Monu­ Subject to congressional trampling of the shoreline at the ment. The plan is a framework for authorization, a long-term lease Badwater Basin pools) and to the management and develop­ would be developed with the avoid any new impacts. ment of the monument for the Timbisha-Shoshone Tribe to The net change in developed next 10 to 15 years. assure them of continued rights areas within the monument The draft plan and two alterna­ to use the village adjacent to Fur­ would be minimal. Increases tives were devised by a planning nace Creek Ranch. would result primarily from addi­ team from the National Park Ser­ No proposed actions would tional management facilities and vice Western Regional Office. affect wilderness values. The campgrounds. Most develop­ The plan will be made available lands proposed for wilderness ment would occur in current or for public comment. Pending designation would continue to be previously disturbed areas and revisions, it could go into effect in managed as if they were wilder­ some existing disturbed areas the fall of 1988. ness, and their value would be would be restored to natural con­ Draft General enhanced by reducing the size of ditions. Management Plan areas where mining would be permitted. Water use would increase in The draft plan would improve expanded or newly developed information / orientation / inter­ The plan will also propose areas. While the long-term pretation services and improve alternatives of maintaining basi­ effects of additional water use are the reliability of roads to better cally the status quo with modest unknown, current studies indi­ allow visitors access to the monu­ changes. cate that higher water use would- ment's diverse features. Some Environmental not adversely affect natural sys­ additional facilities would be pro­ planned. Many would remain Some existing campgrounds Consequences tems, so long as a flow of water vided. gravel, but improvements in would be reduced in capacity to Neither the draft plan nor the from the springs is maintained. At major entry points to Death design and maintenance would levels comparable to average alternatives propose significant Water conservation measures Valley, reception centers would provide more reliable access to peak-season demand. Overflow changes in the management of would be implemented. Con­ be developed to provide informa­ remote areas. The Emigrant- camping areas would be pro­ the monument. For the most part, tinued water use studies would tion and orientation for visitors so Wildrose Road would be empha­ vided for the exceptional peak they would emphasize the pre­ help determine the effects of that they would not have to travel sized as an interpretive corridor. periods. servation of the unique natural water consumption and the mea­ to the Furnace Creek Visitor Cen­ The road from Wildrose to the Two new campgrounds would and cultural resources, bring sures required to counter them. ter for these services. These cen­ monument boundary would be established in the southern facilities and services up to cur­ Safety hazards would be ters would be designed to remain a gravel, standard- area of the monument—one fully rent NPS standards, improve the reduced or eliminated by replace­ encourage visitors to stop, relax vehicle road. Realignment of developed campground in the quality of the visitor experience ment of obsolete facilities, reha­ for a few minutes and give some Route 190 at Stovepipe Wells Jubilee Pass area and a primitive and retain current wilderness val­ bilitation of campgrounds and thought to what they would like to would improve visitor safety and campground in the Ibex Hills ues. The lands where mining implementation of flood hazjird see in the monument. accessibility. area. Additional primitive camp­ would be permitted would be sig­ mitigation projects. The draft plan Interpretive waysides and bro­ grounds (such as the ones at nificantly reduced under the recommends the relocation of chures would emphasize a Major campgrounds would be Pinon Mesa and in the Racetrack proposal and Alternative B, some facilities out of floodplains. theme integrating the unique­ renovated to comply with safety area) would be permitted in ensuring that these lands would Where that is not feasible, mea­ ness of the Death Valley environ­ codes and bring them up to NPS selected remote areas. Addition­ be managed to preserve signific­ sures would be implemented to ment and the adaptations that all standards. Improvements would al group campgrounds, away ant natural and cultural resources provide flood warning and protec­ living things must make. A major include better restrooms, site from established campgrounds, and the visual quality of the tion. renovation and expansion of the separation, more convenient would be provided when there is monument. Alternative A would Alternatives to the draft plan visitor center at Furnace Creek water taps, showers where suffi­ a demonstrated need. maintain the status quo on cur­ would have a positive effect on would improve facilities for exhi­ cient water is available, addition­ Three existing facilities would rent patented mining claims. the quality of the visitor experi­ bits, the library, museum collec­ al tables and grills, and some be eliminated. The Stovepipe Road system improvements ence. Proposed improvements tion and administrative offices. A shade structures. Particular Wells airstrip and the landfill area would occur, for the most part, on such as the use of boardwalks or modest visitor center is also prop­ emphasis would be given to at Furnace Creek would be con­ existing road alignments. other traffic control methods in osed for Stovepipe Wells Village. improving access to these facili­ verted to overflow camping. The Improved access into remote heavy-use areas, better informa­ ties by the physically disabled. No major new roads are small campground at Emigrant, areas under the draft plan and tion and interpretation and gener­ which is subject to flash flood additional camping opportunities al improvements in the quality of hazards, would be removed. could increase localized damage visitor facilities would reduce, but Other elements of the plan to vegetation and soils. The not eliminate the impacts of new EMERGENCY include major renovation of areas identified for potential and continuing use. Dial 911 Inyo County Sheriff Department employee housing and manage­ increased use have been careful­ Copies of the draft environ­ 786-2330 Park Headquarters 24 hours emergency line or ment facilities, implementation of ly evaluated so as to avoid fragile mental impact statement will be 714-383-5651 Interagency Communication Center 24 hour flash flood mitigation measures and sensitive resources, available for review at monument number. and transfer of the administration increased use in more remote headquarters during April. Public Pay phones located at Furnace Creek Visitor Center, of Devil's Hole to the U.S. Fish areas also could adversely affect meetings will be held in the Death Stovepipe Wells, Emigrant, Grapevine Ranger Station, and Wildlife Service. cultural resources because of Valley Visitor Center at Furnace Scottys and Ryan Junction. The plan would reduce the vandalism and trampling of deter­ Creek on May 7; Lone Pine, Ca., May 9; Pasadena, Ca., May 10; SAFETY TIPS areas where mining operations iorating ruins. Some access and Las Vegas, Nev., May 11. See our park pamphlet on hot weather hints available at would be permitted when such would be eliminated under the any ranger station, visitor center and main entrances to operations conflict with the man­ proposal with respect to not For additional information, Death Valley. date to protect significant monu­ reopening the Beatty Cutoff after copies of the draft statement or to ment resources. A land protec­ future flood damage and elimi­ comment on the plan/ PARK RANGERS ARE HERE TO ASSIST YOU. Ranger tion plan, which is now being pre­ nating the airstrip at Stovepipe alternatives, write the Superin­ stations are located at Shoshone, Furnace Creek Head­ pared, will determine methods to Wells. tendent, Death Valley National quarters, Stovepipe Wells, Wildrose and Grapevine. protect these areas from any There would be no effects on Monument, Death Valley, Ca., adverse effects associated with known rare, threatened or endan­ 92328. (Phone: (619) 786-2331). Naturalist Notes Gone Fish in' . . . by Tim Coonan earlier times, when Death Val­ explosion. well-pumping, the Devil's Hole Yes, there are fish in Death ley's Lake Manly was part of an This fluctuating environment is pupfish would likely perish. Valley, but don't bring your rod interconnected lake system. At another similarity. For example, The critical yet tenuous rela­ and reel and favorite lure in that time fish and other aquatic summer evaporation may dry up tionship between the pupfish and hopes of bringing home a few in organisms traveled freely among all the deepest pools in a stream, their all-important rock-ledge your creel. Although the local the various lakes. Later, a clima­ Devilis Hole pupfish while serving to increase the habitat prompted the U.S. Fish native Americans once caught tic warming trend caused the lake Cyphnodon diabolis salinity and temperature in the and Wildlife Service to designate these fish in baskets, great blue system to shrink. Today, Death Saratoga Springs pupfish {Cypri- remaining water. Never fear, the the fish as an endangered spe­ herons and their like are the only Valley's pupfish populations are nodon nevadensis) reside in that hardy little pupfish can withstand cies. To protect the pupfish, the successful fishermen these days. limited to isolated refuges — spring's clear waters. Further temperatures and salinities that U.S. Supreme Court limited the Death Valley's fish aren't those few streams and springs along the Amargosa River dwells would prove fatal to most other amount of groundwater that exactly rainbow trout, or even which retain water year-round. the Amargosa pupfish (Cyprino- fish. In fact, the Cottonball Marsh could be pumped from nearby perch or bluegill. In fact, if you The fragmentation of their for­ don nevadensis amargosae). pupfish can tolerate salinities 2.5 wells. slapped one of these fish on a merly extensive habitat caused The midsection of the Monument times that of seawater. The case of the Devil's Hole Ritz cracker, there would probab­ is home to the other species: the the few ancestral pupfish species The Devil's Hole pupfish pupfish illustrates the fact that ly be enough room left for a Salt Creek pupfish {Cyprinodon to evolve into the different spe­ experiences environmental pupfish lead a rather precarious stuffed olive.. These diminutive salinus) and the Cottonball cies found today. Present-day instability of another kind. existence, what with their harsh, denizens of Death Valley's deeps Marsh pupfish {Cyprinodon sali­ pupfish in Death Valley include Although the water temperature unstable environments and wildly — er, shallows — are the enig­ the Devil's Hole pupfish {Cyprino- nus mill en). remains at 92 degrees F. year- matic desert pupfish, several fluctuating populations. Evolution don diabolis) which inhabits the The different pupfish species round, both the water level in the has proceeded fast and furiously species of killifish who spend warm water above a shallow rock share some environmentally pool and the amount of algae on their days defying the harsh envi­ in this story, and one has the feel­ ledge in Devil's Hole cavern in determined features. Each may the underwater rock shelf can ing that the final chapter has not ronment in which they live. Nevada. be considered an "annual" spe­ fluctuate over time. The pupfish yet been written. We can only cies, in that the population dies Their environment may not Two other species live in the feed and breed exclusively on the hope that human actions do not back at inhospitable times of the have always been so harsh. valley proper, and each is repre­ algae-covered shelf. Were the close the book before the pupfish year but responds to more favor­ Death Valley's pupfish may be sented by two subspecies. In the shelf to go dry, as it almost did in have the opportunity to write their able conditions with a population considered "relict" species from southern portion of the valley, the the early 1970s due to nearby own ending.

CROSSWORD PUZZLE by Mike and Wendy Lawrence ACROSS CLUES 1. Brown-eyed 3. Bunny 6. Use their fruit for bread 8. Humble or rock 11. Zane Grey's Riders of the Purple 12. Jumping or Teddybear 14. Parasitic orange spaghetti 15. Deciduous tree, honey 19. Find this sausage-shaped plant at Salt Creek, weed 22. This buckwheat has a hollow swollen stem 24. This common desert plant has no leaves 26. Brew a laxative drink with this plant 27. Without this the flowers won't bloom 28. Another name for 26-down 29. Yellow gourd favored by Canis Latrans 30. Desert bighorn eat the Mojave

DOWN )LUES 2. Bel ' flower daisies, desert 4. Shr. /y magenta flowers decorate this pricklypear 5. back; gray-leaved plant shaped like a tortoise shell 7. Stic y-leaved plant with yellow, snapdragon-like flowers 9. Even the state flower of Texas grows here 10. Orange,, poppy-like flower; globe or apricot 12. Larrea tridentata 13. This cactus bears a fruit that makes good jelly 16. Common purple or lavender flower 17. Bristlecone grows at high elevations 18. This shade tree grows naturally in some canyons 20. A very rare plant, also known as Goldcarpet 21. Before it's a flower, it's a 22. Indians used this to induce visions 23. Death Valley's prettiest, desert five- 25. This saltbush has silvery leaves which may remind you of a Christmas plant Answer on page 7 26. Purple- , another belly-plant 28. Forget-me- Summer Survival in Death Valley

by Mary Beth White because backcountry roads are When I left my home town less traveled and ranger patrols along the shores of Lake Michi­ are infrequent. gan my friends were convinced There is something you should that I had lost my mind. Why know about Death Valley's sum­ would a sane person leave the mer; it does not get cold at night. It cool summer breezes of the lake may cool down to 85 or 90 to work at a castle in the desert degrees F by midnight. As the located in the hottest, driest place winds blow across the oven- in North America? Four summers baked surface of the valley floor later I am still here and have you will experience warm thermal gained some expertise in surviv­ breezes in the afternoon. There's ing the hot summers in Death nothing like hot, blowing air on a Valley with the least amount of hot, sunny day! discomfort. As a year-round resident of One of the important keys to Death Valley, I have devised an survival is water. Fortunately, the array of tricks to deal with the Furnace Creek area has a good summer heat. The swimming supply. Two nearby springs pro­ pool (or fire reservoir) plays an vide us with 1,200 gallons of integral part of our lives during water per minute. However, the the summer months. The para­ water temperature in the summer phernalia you will need are as fol­ averages 87 degrees F, which lows: a leak-proof air matress, a means there is no such thing as a spray bottle filled with cold water, cold shower. a large supply of iced tea or While traveling through Death Gatorade, and a pair of thick- Valley it is a good idea to carry a soled thongs. gallon of water for each person in burning your hands on the steer­ round containers. That way, 112 degrees F for the Fourth of your vehicle. At 110 degrees F, Next, you must never look at a ing wheel after the car has been there are no corners to leak out July, knowing that the average even in the shade, a person can thermometer during heat parked in the sun. of. You will have to refrigerate temperature is 115 degrees F. perspire about one quart of water waves—it will only make you feel For those who inhabit the val­ peanut butter and candles to pre­ Keeping cool in Death Valley in per hour. It is also recommended hotter if you know how hot it really ley all summer long there are a vent them from melting in your summer is more than a matter of that your vehicle be in tiptop con­ is outside! Another item that is few secrets of survival. One must cabinets. comfort. Your safety—even your 1 dition before entering Death Val­ necessary to protect both you invest in a large ice chest to bring An employee with foresight will survival—depends on it. A copy ley. Carry a good spare tire, and your vehicle is a sun shade. home cold grocery items from the plan a vacation to be taken in July of the "Hot Weather Hints" bro­ because service stations are few This is an accordion-like piece of 2Vz -hour trip from Las Vegas. or August to somewhere cool and chure is available throughout the and far between. Staying on the cardboard that fits behind your Bringing home ice cream from wet. A summer employee will be monument. Please have a safe main highways is advised windshield. It prevents you from town is no problem if you buy it in ecstatic when it cools down to and pleasant summer visit.

The first step in planning your visit in Death Valley A Day in Death Valley • Goldene Canyon (Golden Canyon) 10 km/6 Meilen requires a stop at the Furnace Creek Visitor Center mit dem Auto, zu Fuss: 1-5 km ODER English & German which is located near the geographic center of the • Harmony Boraxwerke u. Ruinen (Harmony Borax monument. Maps, general information and a museum hides. Additional information is available at the Works and Ruins Walk) 6.4 km/3 Meilen mit dem Auto, are available. If you find yourself with only one day to Furnace Creek Visitor Center. Please drive care­ zu Fuss: .5 km / V* Meilen spend in Death Valley, there are a few areas that you will fully and have a pleasant visit. not want to miss. Below are some suggestions, the time Einen Tag in Das Todestal 2-4 Stunden required and round-trip mileages from the Furnace Creek Visitor Center. All of these areas can be reached (Death Valley) • Die Verbindung von zwei von den obenerwahnte Aus- with any automobile. Wenn Sie einen Besuch in Death Valley pia- wahlen . . . ODER 1-2 Hours nen, ist der erste Stop in Furnace Creek Visitor • Dante's Aussicht (Die Strasse ist steil am Ende.) Badwater, Devil's Golf Course and Artist's Center u. Museum, es ist im Mittelpunkt des (Dante's View)80 km/50 Meilen. Elevation: 1,669 meter Drive, 44 miles OR Nationalparks. Dort sind Karten und Informa- / 5,475' ODER Zabriskie Point and Twenty Mule Team Canyon tionen erhaltlich. Wenn Sie nur 1 Tag bleiben • Keane Wonder Bergwerkeu, Muhle u. Ruinen (Keane 17 miles OR wollen, solten Sie verschiedene von en unten Wonder Mine, Mill and Ruins) 64 km/40 Meilen. zu Salt Creek and the Sand Dunes, 42 miles OR aufgefuhrte Gegenden besuchen. Zeit und Kilo- Fuss: 3.2 km / 2 Meilen ODER meter/Meilen Angaben sind auch eingeschlossen. Gc'den Canyon (walk), 6 miles OR • Mosaik Canyon (Mosaic Canyon - near Stovepipe Alles ist mit dem Auto erreichbar. Harmony Borax Works (walk), 3 miles Wells) 84 km/55 Meilen. zu Fuss: 1 -4 km / .5-2 Meilen Andere Gegenden sind erreichbar mit Trucks ODER 2-4 Hours und Allradautos. Zusatzliche Informationen erhalten Any combination of the above OR Sie im Furnace Creek Visitor Center. Fahren Sie • Die Brucke von dem Natur Canyon (Natural Bridge Dante's View (steep road), 50 miles OR vorsichtig und erfreuen Sie sich an der Land- Canyon). 52 km/32 Meilen. zu Fuss: 1-3 km / .5-1.5 Keane Wonder Mine and Mill (walk), 40 miles schaft. Meilen OR 1-2 Stunden (Rundreise) 4 Oder Mehr Stunden Mosaic Canyon (walk), 55 miles OR • Schlechteswasser, Teufels Golfplatz u. Die Strasse • Die Verbindung von zwei von den obenerwahnte Aus- Natural Bridge (walk), 32 miles von den Kuntsler. (Badwater, Devil's Golf Course and wahlen . . . ODER 4 Or More Hours Artist's Drive) 69 km/44 Meilen ODER • Scotty's Schloss u. Der Ubehebe-Krater (Scotty's Any combination of the above OR • Zabriskie Spitze Oder Aussicht u. Zwanzig-Maultier- Castle and Ubehebe Crater) 180 km/115 Meilen. Eleva­ • Scotty's Castle and Ubehebe Crater, 115 miles Gespannen Canyon (Zabriskie Point and Twenty Mule tion: 914 meter/ 3,000'. Zu Dem Krater: 5 minuten her- • OR Team Canyon), 26 km/17 Meilen ODER unter u. 20 minuten heraus ODER • Charcoal Kilns, 140 miles • DerSalzbach u. Die Sanddunen. (SaltCreek Trail and • Die Wildrose Holzkohle Backofen von 1870 (Wildrose Many other areas in and around Death Valley the Sand Dunes), 62 km/42 Meilen mit dem Auto, zu Charcoal Kilns) 200 km/140 Meilen. Elevation: 2,122 are accessible to trucks and 4-wheel-drive ve- Fuss: 2 km; zu Fuss: 1-4 km ODER meter, 6,800' Castle Corner

Book Review: Death Valley Scotty by Mabel

by Barbara Ferrey or about being one of the few women in the The cover of the book has the same subtle desert at that time, which is what the book tries undertones as the woman who wrote it. It's ele­ to relay to the reader. gant yet rugged and it's the key to the complex and often misunderstood world of a woman in Bessie, who is often portrayed as a delicate, Death Valley in the 1920s. prissy, wealthy city woman, seemed to always come across in some stories as a woman who The book is called "Death Valley Scotty by was forced to live in the desert and as a result Mabel" but Mabel is not the author's real name. resented Scotty. This book, however, shows that Mabel was the nickname given to Bessie Johnson Bessie enjoyed the camping and adventure as by Walter Scott, who was nicknamed Death Valley much as the two "desert rats" she traveled with. Scotty and the namesake of Scotty's Castle. In fact, Bessie dubbed herself the "desert mouse."

The manuscript was written in 1932 by Bessie, The book shows that Bessie indeed liked Scotty the wife of Scotty's longtime companion and min­ and thought he was a great character. Bessie ing partner Albert Johnson. relays the fact that she was appreciative toward the two men for showing her the desert life. By the end of World War II, Bessie had died and Albert was suffering from ill health thus losing At the beginning of the book Bessie writes, interest in publishing his wife's manuscript. "Somewhere in my ancestry there must have been a will to play the game' at any hazard. Anyway, everthing worthwhile in this world costs something and it has certainly been worthwhile to travel the sands of time with Death Valley Scotty and Al, down, down into Death Valley, where lizards run, the rattlesnakes crawl, the tarantulas jump and the scorpions and centipedes hide in the grey sage, down, down in Death Valley where the hot winds blow."

Bessie's journey began in 1896 in Oakland when she married Albert, a civil engineering stu­ dent she had met during her studies at Cornell Albert Johnson University in New York. worlds, in the stars, that glitter and sparkle as I close my eyes and forget the restlessness of the Albert purchased National Life Insurance Com­ world without." pany of Chicago and he and Bessie moved to The Death Valley Association feels the book is Chicago. invaluable since many scholars of the 20th century West will view such a book as a way of looking Both Johnsons were devout Christians but Bes­ at another angle of the westward movement. sie became more deeply involved in evangelism in 1915 when she met evangelist Paul Rader, who Officials said the book is significant because it became her spiritual mentor. Bessie hosted a gives a different view of what Bessie thought. Rader radio program called "The Young Women's There are not many journal books by women liv­ Council Hour" during which she answered letters ing in the Mojave Desert in the 1920s, officials and gave advice to her listeners. She also made said that Bessie's is an important journal to public appearances with Rader at his revivals. examine because she was one of the first women in that area and she spent a significant amount of In the early 1900s Albert became a mining part­ time there. ner with Scotty and the two made long trips into Death Valley. After a few years, Bessie began to The Death Valley Natural History Association is follow them on these trips. selling the book throughout the monument. Inquir­ Bessie Johnson ("Mabel") ies about the book can be made to the Associa­ On her first night in Death Valley, Bessie slept tion, P.O. Box 188, Death Valley, Calif. 92328. The legal-sized typed sheets remained in a file on the ground in a bed Albert made for her com­ cabinet until 1986 when the Gospel Foundation plete with hip and shoulder holes dug in the sand. donated several file drawers of papers to the Bessie got little sleep and ended up in the car by Death Valley Scotty by Mabel N.P.S. Among those papers were two typewritten midnight. ORDER FORM chapters of the manuscript. Nevertheless, Bessie came to love the area by Copies $4.95 ea._ .Postage & Handling $1.50 Officials who coordinated the publishing of the the time she wrote her manuscript. manuscript for the Death Valley Natural History Name Association said that Bessie was the most mis­ "How differently I feel now, after years of Address. understood character from the Death Valley area. experience in the desert," she wrote. "The peace City/State/Zip. .Total of it is such a joy after the turmoil of life out Make checks payable to Death Valley Natural History Association The officials concur that while much has been side. The mountains are fortresses of protection. Mailing Sddress P.O. Box 188, Death Valley, CA 92328 written about her husband, Albert, and, of course, VIS A/MasterCard, $10.00 minimum, include acct. number/expiration The canyons are full of interest. The long date and signature. Calif, residents please include 6% sales tax. Scotty, no one ever really delved into Bessie's shadows, at night, are soothing. The singing winds emotions. No one knew how she felt about Scotty waft me away in beautiful dreams of unknown Interpretive Activities

Ranger-conducted activities are offered through mid-April at Furnace Creek, Stovepipe Wells, Mes- Meet the Staff quite Springs Campground and Scotty's Castle. For current schedules, check at each location. Furnace Creek Botanical — Learn how to identify wildflowers Orientation film presented on the hour, 9 a.m.-4 and other Mojave Desert plants. Discover native George Voyta p.m. daily, and 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sundays, at the visi­ American plant foods and preparation techniques. Restoration Specialist tor center. George is responsible for restora­ Stovepipe Wells tion projects at the Scottys Castle Illustrated programs presented seven nights a Daytime and evening programs presented on Unit. He also works cooperatively week at 7:30 p.m. in the visitor center auditorium weekends as announced. with other Castle staff when their until late April. Scotty's Castle activities may have an impact on the Daytime walks and talks conducted at visitor cen­ Daily Castle tours conducted year-round, 9 integrity of historical structures. ter and at locations near visitorcenter until late April. a.m.-5 p.m. Born in the Chicago area, he has a Sample of programs at Furnace Creek: Grounds tours conducted weekends as background in carpentry and Historical — See where borax was processed announced. architectural drawing. George and and where gold mining took place. Learn about the Mesquite Springs his wife Angie have been at Scottys characters who lived in Death Valley. Campground Castle in various positions since Geological — Take a walk with a ranger to see Campfire programs presented Fridays and 1976. During a Castle absence, he faults, folds and other geological features in the val­ Saturdays at 7:30 p.m. in the amphitheater until recently completed a 3 year historic preservation training program based ley. mid-April. in Williamsport, MD.

—Self-Guiding Tours Kelley Collins A variety of self-guiding facilities badlands. The origin of these col­ cal feet takes you to the cross Interpretive Specialist are available for you to enjoy and orful formations is described. which marks Death Valley Scot­ Kelley arrived in Death Valley in explore at your leisure. These tours ty's grave. This walk will help you Harmony Borax Works — length V* October 1987. She is responsible for lead to some of Death Valley's most discover how plants, animals, and 1 the management and supervision of beautiful and interesting locations. mile, walking time /2 hour - inter­ humans exist in the challenging interpretive operations at Scottys Guide booklets may be purchased on pretive signs. Death Valley environment. Castle. site as well as at the Furnace Creek One hundred years ago borax A native of the Midwest, Kelley Visitor Center and Scotty's Castle was refined here before being Tie Canyon Trail—length 4/10 mile attended Kansas State University, bookstore. shipped out on the famous 20 walking time '/2 hour - booklets earning a degree in natural resource mule team wagons. Wagons are available in the Scotty's Castle Badwater Auto Tour — length 38 management. She began her Park on display. Picnic Area. miles round trip, driving time 2 Service career six years ago. She hours - booklets available at junc­ Walking Tour of Scotty's Castle - Workers and building materials has worked at two other National occupied Tie Canyon during the tion of CA 190 and the Badwater Length 'A mile, walking time 45 Park Service sites, the Jefferson construction period. Some vehi­ Road as well as Badwater. min. - booklets available beside National Expansion Memorial in St. cles, equipment, and building Louis, MO and Homestead National The valley's geology is explained Scotty's Castle Ticket Booth. materials remain. Monument in Nebraska. at different viewpoints. At Badwa­ A walk around the grounds of In her spare time Kelley enjoys ter, you will be 280 feet below sea Scotty's Castle to learn more Wildrose Charcoal Kilns — length bicyling, dancing, baking, and being level. about daily life at the ranch, its V. mile, walking time 72 hour - outdoors. construction, and the booklets available at the Charcoal Salt Creek Nature Trail — length 7 2 outbuildings. Kilns. mile, walking time 1 hour - book­ Slets available at Salt Creek. Windy Point Trail — length 3A mile, During the silver mining era, these walking time '/ hour - booklets peculiar stone "beehives" were Salt Creek flows year-round 2 available beside Scotty's Castle through a shallow canyon and built to produce charcoal for smel­ Phil Cottonwood Ticket Booth. A climb of 160 verti­ marsh. Tiny pupfish survive in the ters in the Argus Range. Maintenance Worker salty waters. As people enter the Death Valley Visitor Center they might notice a Sand Dunes Story—lengths mile, Mining. • • man busily working on the grounds, walking time 1 hour - booklets Continued from page 2 have renewed interest generated grooming the cool green lawn around available at Sand Dunes Picnic them back, well after the turn of in them and again resume pro­ the building. That is just one of the Area and along CA 190, 2 miles the century when other more duction. Some claims will duties of Phil Cottonwood who has east of Stovepipe Wells. competitive deposits are mined assuredly never see production worked as a seasonal maintenance Miles of dunes can be explored. out. but their owners will continue to worker for the National Park Service Plant and animal communities are The valid mines of Death Val­ hold them with hope, for such is since 1979. He has lived in Death explained. Desert dwellers leave ley will probably continue to move the nature of humankind. Valley since 1949 at the Tombisha their tracks in the sand. through their cycles of boom and Shoshone Village. He and his wife Golden Canyon Trail — length 154 bust until the last ounce of profit­ Ann have one daughter, Barbara and mile round trip, walking time fit able ore has been mined. Mines a grand daughter, Missy. On his free hour - booklets available at active now will reach points of time he enjoys hunting and fishing. canyon entrance. unattractive productivity and be This trail leads into yellow and red shut down. Inactive ones may

Continued from page 4 Death Valley Visitor Guide Age has its advantages. Anyone The Death Valley Visitor Guide is a publication of the Death Valley Natural His­ 62 years or older is entitled to great tory Association in cooperation with the National Park Service, Death Valley Nation­ respect...and a Golden Age Pass­ al Monument. This publication is produced to inform and aid the park visitor. port. This lifetime pass provides free Editors Esy Fields & Mara Meisel entry to national parks for you and NHA Staff Jenny Magli & Lisa Bahlinger those traveling with you in your vehi­ Contributing Writers Mel Essington, Lex Palmer, Barbara Ferrey, Mary Beth White, Inge Theisen, cle. It also entitles you to a 50 percent Barbara Moritsch, Tim Coonan, Roger Cleven discount on camping and other Illustrations Alden Austin, Barbara Moritsch, user's fees. Golden Age Passports Kayci Cook are available free at the Furnace Production Kaye Doughtie, Chalfant Press Printing Keith Doughtie, Chalfant Press Creek Visitor Center and other Photo Credits National Park Service entrance fee collection points. Produced with the assistance of the National Park Service, Death Valley National Note: A similar pass, the Golden Monument. Special thanks to the staff and management of Chalfant Press. Access Passport, is available free to those with a physical disability. Visitors Services

Furnace Creek Inn and Ranch Resort - Fred Harvey, Inc. Stovepipe Wells Village - Concessioner, Fred Harvey, Inc.

Scotty's Castle Services - Concessioner, TW Services, Inc.

A variety of services are available within Death Valley National Monument during the visitor season (October - Mary 12). Summer months offer a limited number of services. Summer services are listed at the bottom of this section.

LODGING SCOTTY'S CASTLE Furnace Creek Ranch 786-2345 Snack Bar, Gift Shop 8:30 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. Furnace Creek Inn 786-2361 Gas Station 9:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. Reservations, Inn & Ranch 786-2345 Stovepipe Wells Village 786-2387 FOOD AND DRINK GASOLINE Furnace Creek Ranch Furnace Creek Chevron 7:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m. Coffee Shop 7:00 a.m. - 9:30 p.m. Stovepipe Wells Chevron 7:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m. Cafeteria Scotty's Castle Union 76 9:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. breakfast 5:30 a.m. - 9:00 a.m. Diesel Fuel available at Beatty, Stateline, Lone Pine, Panamint Springs, lunch 11:00 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. Olancha and Trona. dinner 5:00 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. Steak House 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m. PROPANE (except Sunday) Furnace Creek Chevron Corkscrew Saloon 11:00 a.m. - 1:00 a.m. 19th Hole Snackbar and Cocktails 10:00 a.m. - Dusk AUTO REPAIR AND TOWING Furnace Creek Inn Furnace Creek Garage (AAA) 786-2232 Dining Room 8:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. breakfast 7:30 a.m. - 9:00 a.m. GENERAL STORES lunch Noon - 1:00 p.m. Furnace Creek Ranch 7:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. dinner (res. req.) 6:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m. Stovepipe Wells 7:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m. Sunday Brunch 11:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m. Oasis Supper Club (res. req.) 6:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m. GIFT SHOPS Stovepipe Wells Furnace Creek Ranch 7:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. Dining Room Furnace Creek Inn 8:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m. breakfast 7:00 a.m. - 10:00 a.m. Stovepipe Wells 8:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m. lunch 11:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m. Scotty's Castle 8:30 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. dinner 5:30 - 8:30 p.m. Saloon 4:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m. ICE Scotty's Castle Snack Bar 8:30 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. Available at Furnace Creek Chevron SWIMMING POOLS BIKE RENTALS Furnace Creek Ranch 9:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m. Furnace Creek Chevron $2.00 charge to non-guests, availability limited Stovepipe Wells 9:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. LAUNDROMAT $1.00 charge to non-guests, availability limited Furnace Creek Ranch - located on Roadrunner Ave. BARBER SHOP HORSEBACK RIDES Located across from Furnace Creek Inn Furnace Creek Ranch - 2 hour rides 8:00 a.m. and 10:30 a.m. Every Thursday 9:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Tickets at Registration Office BEAUTY SHOP GOLF COURSE Furnace Creek Inn 9:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Furnace Creek Ranch Pro Shop 786-2301 Tuesday through Saturday DEATH VALLEY SIGHTSEEING TOURS POST OFFICE Furnace Creek Ranch Furnace Creek Ranch Registration Office 786-2345, Ext. 61 Monday through Friday 7:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m. May 15 - Oct. 15 7:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m. SUMMER SERVICES Closed Saturdays FURNACE CREEK RANCH SHOWERS General Store 7:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. Furnace Creek Ranch - check at registration desk Chevron Station 7:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m. Stovepipe Wells - check at registration desk Meals available at Coffee Shop, Cafeteria, Steak House complex 5:30 a.m. - 9:30 p.m. RELIGIOUS SERVICES Rooms available 24 hr. 786-2345 INTER-DENOMINATIONAL (Sponsored by A. Christian Ministry in the National Parks) STOVEPIPE WELLS VILLAGE Furnace Creek Visitor Center Sunday 9:00 a.m. & 6:00 p.m. General Store 8:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. Stovepipe Wells Auditorium (through April 24) Saturday 6 p.m. Chevron Station 8:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. Sunday 9:00 a.m. Limited number of rooms available Dining room and saloon closed Check bulletin boards for time changes during holiday periods.

PARK WATCH Numerous towns and cities across called PARK WATCH. The objective us to protect these valuable resour­ best thing you can do is to note the the nation have instituted a program of PARK WATCH is to encourage park ces. Report any act of vandalism. location, description of the people called "Neighborhood Watch." The visitors and neighbors to take a more Together we can keep Death Valley involved, license numbers of any vehi­ idea behind this program is to encour­ active role in protecting and preserv­ National Monument a safe and enjoy­ cles, and report the incident as soon age residents to keep an eye on the:- ing their park. You are being asked to able experience for all. as possible. neighbor's property and to report any- report safety problems, vandalism and Report any crime or safety prob­ suspicious activity to the local police or crime. Vandalism is a special problem lems to a Park Ranger or call (619) sheriff. Everyone makes a commit­ here at Death Valley. Remnants of 786-2330. IMPORTANT: If you TO REPORT AN INCIDENT ment to look out for each other's wel­ past mining activity contain numerous observe someone violating park reg­ CALL (619) 786-2330 fare. old buildings, many of which are clas­ ulations or committing a crime, DO OR 911 OR Death Valley National Monument sified as historical structures. Vandals NOT attempt to take action yourself. CONTACT A PARK RANGER has implemented a similar program are destroying YOUR heritage. Help This is a job for Park Rangers. The