Jeweller of Kings

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JEWELLER OF KINGS

text by ISABEL SAURAS • Illustration by PEDRO TRILLo-FIGUEROA

There is no doubt that the bonds with international royalty and aristocracy have brought the French Maison a well-deserved and remarkable prestige. CARTIER, an insatiable observer of beauty throughout the world, has created a new collection of high jewellery, CARTIER Royal, for its fans.

ince Louis-François Cartier decided to take over the workshop of his master-craftsman, located at 29, Rue Montorgueil, Paris, in 1847, the French company has been considered a major representa- tive in the field of fine jewellery and watchmaking throughout the world. In 1874, Alfred Cartier, the heir of the savoir-faire of his father, joined the firm and some years later his three sons Louis, Pie- rre and Jacques uplifted the family business to the highest level boosting Sits internationalization. Its exquisite and original designs, high quality of gems and an impressive ability to reinvent, even if very attached to tradition, have made it possible for Cartier to greatly enjoy a well-deserved international prestige. Beyond fashions and fads of all times, the Maison has forged its style inspired by its extraordinary history, countless travels and exceptional encounters. Many lovers of unique pieces of fine watchmaking and jewellery from all around the world have been joining the list of Cartier clients for more than a century and half, but what has made the Maison worthy of an unprecedented prestige is undoubtedly its bond with royalty and international aristocracy.

De izquierda a derecha y de arriba a abajo: Reina Alejandra de Dinamarca, Princesa Margarita, Jacques Cartier, Maharaja Jam Sahib, María de Sajonia- Cobur, Reina Victoria Eugenia de España, Rama V Paramindr Maha, Princesa Grace de Monaco y Reina Sofía de España,

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Sobre estas líneas montaje del anillo de diamante talla lágrima de la colección Royal. A la derecha, collar que combina piedra natural y diamantes con el diamante talla lágrima Absolute commissioned Cartier with a wonderful diadem composed of olive leaves, Diamond de nada menos que 30, 21 quilates. diamonds and emeralds. The Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna of Russia took a fancy to a diadem set with diamonds and sapphires. Subsequently, this platinum foliage tiara, composed of a cushion-shaped diamond, round diamonds of antique cut and millegrain finish, was sold to Elizabeth, the Queen of Belgium, in 1912. And thus continues a long list of VIP clients such as the Prince Rainier of Monaco who could not make a better decision than to choose the Cartier jewellers to create a ring that would celebrate his engagement with Grace Kelly, an emerald-cut diamond of 10.47 carats. Recently, Catherine Middleton wore on her wedding day with William, the heir to the British Crown, a spectacular Cartier tiara that was originally designed for the Duchess of York in 1936 – the future Queen Elizabeth – and was also worn by Princess Margaret in 1955. This tiara is referred to as “Halo Tiara” because its shape and shine create a halo of light. Rings, tiaras, earrings... all these jewels witness the close relationship created between the jeweller and historical personalities. Cartier, an insatiable observer of beauty throughout the world, always hunting for rare and unique stones, has created for its fans a new collection of high jewellery, Cartier Royal. It is an eclectic line carrying the name Royal as it was inspired by in

The most impressive piece and also the most coveted one belonging to the Royal Collection is, without any

Sobre estas líneas Evalyn Walsh McLean luciendo una versión de la polémica joya doubt, the Royal Pearl Hope Diamond de Cartier. Debajo el rey Eduardo VII de Inglaterra y la reina Alexandra, ambos incondicionales de los talleres de Cartier. A la derecha, el secreto mejor The Prince of Wales, the future King Edward VII, defined Cartier as “the guardado de la Royal Collection: la Royal Pearl, una impresionante perla de 8,3 jeweller of Kings and the King among jewellers”. It is a clairvoyant mes- gramos talla lágrima que destaca por su perfección simétrica. sage depicting the strong ties which, since the beginning of the 20th century, associate Cartier with Royal courts and aristocracy members from all around the world. Particularly, sovereigns and princesses of many Royal Houses have ordered from Cartier an endless number of jewels, especially diadems and tiaras. In fact, in the heyday of this French family business, artisans from Cartier manufactured more than 27 tiaras to shine on the illustrious heads of those ladies who were invited to participate in the co- ronation of the King Edward VII of England. From 1904 to 1939, Cartier received 15 royal warrants that recognize the company as official purveyor to the major Royal Houses throughout the world that were interested in precious diadems, above all. To the most exclusive clients belong: Alfonso XIII of Spain, Eduardo VII of England, Carlos I of Portugal, Tsar Nicolas II, Pedro I of Serbia, Alberto I of Bel- gium and the King Paramindr Maha Chulalongkorn of Siam. The first client belonging to royalty mentioned in Cartier’s archives was the Princess Matilda, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned Cartier to make brooches and cameos in 1856. The Princess was very satisfied with the purity and high quality of Cartier’s design and so the fame was not long From 1904 to 1939, Cartier received in coming and many illustrious clients, such as the 15 royal warrants that recognize the Empress Eugenia de Montijo in 1859, gave orders to company as official purveyor to the major Cartier. For the marriage with Prince George of Greece and Denmark in 1907 the Princess Marie de Bonaparte Royal Houses throughout the world

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A la dereceha, la duquesa y el duque de Windsor. Las joyas que la duquesa lleva son un símbolo para Cartier. Bajo estas líneas, collar de esmeraldas y diamantes. La pieza “Royal is an adjective central es una esmeralda talla cojón de 26.60 quilates. Más abajo anillo con diamantes characterizing, for Cartier, its protagonizado por un imponenete diamante talla lágrima de 30.21 quilates. history: that of our creations, but also the history we have written along with our clients”

the excellence of gems and the royalty, as well as by the absolute perfection of the result. “Royal is an adjective characterizing, for Cartier, its history: that of our creations, but also the history we have written along with our clients. Royal is an adjective that defines the savoir-faire: the know-how created by our adventurous and patient hunters of exceptional stones, a synonym of excellence and elegance, by craftsmanship, art and passion. Ultimately, Cartier Royal, as its name suggests, is the new collection of fine jewellery that is made up of unique and precious creations”, explained Oliver Gay, CEO of the Maison. The new collection that is composed of various pieces of top jewellery and of unique objects, born from the encounter of rigour, curiosity and passion, was presented last September at the XXVII edition of the Biennale des An- tiquaires in Paris, one of the most prestigious events in the world of high end jewellery. Cartier has firmly decided that precious stones, which have been passed down from generation to generation as a symbol of golden

Sobre estas líneas la reina Marie de Rumanía con la tiara y el collar de times, will grace heads of state again and so return the brightness to eme- zafiros que Cartier diseñó para ella en 1921. Debajo, collar desmontable ralds, sapphires, rubies, diamonds and other precious stones coming from de la Royal Collection. La pieza central es un espectacular rubí de intenso the most remote places of the world which, set masterfully, create stunning brillo rojo procedente de Mozambique de 15,29 quilates.

jewels that are worshipped for their exotic beauty. Rings, tiaras, earrings... all these The most impressive piece and also the most coveted one jewels witness the close relationship belonging to the Royal Collection is, without any do- created between the jeweller and ubt, the Royal Pearl, a pearl of 8.3 grams that adorns a historical personalities diamond necklace that belonged to the wife of the King George V, the Queen Mary. The stunning teardrop pearl was harvested in the Persian Gulf and is admired for its symmetrical perfection, above all. Thanks to the skills of Cartier jewellers, the Royal Pearl is now the centrepiece of a transformable necklace that can be worn as a tiara and is accompanied by two outstanding earrings with beautiful teardrop pearls. Anther part of the collection that inevitably caught everyone’s attention during the official presentation is a spectacular ruby of 15.29 carats with intense red brightness from Mozambique. It is the centrepiece of a necklace composed of diamonds and rubies with a firm but flexible structure, -de signed as if it were an haute couture garment. Beyond the aesthetic beauty of this collar, its glitter and glowing opulence, it is important to highlight the enormous meticulous work that it represents. It is a symbol of Cartier, a faithful defender of tradition and a lover of artisan work. Like the pre- vious one, this necklace is also attractive owing to its versatility since it can be transformed into a lighter piece, separating the top from the bottom. Along with these collector pieces, the Royal collection has prepared other surprises, such as the shiny Absolute Diamond, a tear carved diamond of 30.21 carats that stars a stunning necklace that combines natural stone and diamonds; and thus we could continue describing up to 100 wonders that shine with their own light .

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