©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to ...... 2 17 Top Experiences ...... 6 Welcome to Need to Know ...... 14 Egypt What’s New ...... 16 If You Like...... 17 COUNTRY & CITYCITY • The originaloriginnal Month by Month ...... 21 • Comprehensive • Adventurous Itineraries ...... 24 Pyramids & More metropolis is packed with soaring mina- rets, and medieval schools and mosques, With sand-covered tombs, austere pyra- some of the greatest architecture of medi- mids and towering Pharaonic temples, 6 eval . At the same time, Egypt’s native Egypt brings out the explorer in all of us. Christians, the Copts, have carried on their Visit the Valley of the Kings in , where traditions that in many respects – such as Tutankhamun’s tomb was unearthed, and the church’s liturgical language and the see the glittering À nds in the Egyptian Mu- traditional calendar – link back to the time Cruising the Nile ...... 27 seum in . Hop oՖ a Nile boat to visit a of the . Tap into the history in re- waterside temple, or trek into the to mote monasteries and ancient churches. À nd the traces of Roman trading outposts. You never know – your donkey might stum- Beaches & Beyond ble across yet another À nd, just as many previous discoveries were made. That empty beach with nothing but a candlelit cabin, and a teeming coral reef Diving the Red Sea ...... 36 Two Religions oՖ shore: they’re waiting for you in Egypt. The coast along the Red Sea has a rugged Egypt once ruled an empire from al- desert beauty above the waterline and a 17 Qahira – Cairo, the City Victorious. The Travel with Children ...... 49 TOP EXPERIENCES Regions at a Glance ...... 52

21 T o p E v e n t s Month Festival, April 54 by , July Eid al-Adha, October Pyramids of Luxor Towering over the urban sprawl of With the greatest concentration of Month Siyaha, October 1 Cairo and the desert plains beyond, the 2 ancient Egyptian monuments anywhere Pyramids of Giza (p 125 ) and the Sphinx in Egypt, Luxor (p 190 ) rewards time spent REGIONS AT A GLANCE REGIONS TRIP YOUR PLAN Cairo International Film are at the top of every traveller’s itinerary. here. You can spend days or weeks around Festival, November Bring lots of water, an empty memory card this town, walking through the columned and plenty of patience! You’ll have to fend halls of the great temples on the east bank oՖ lots of people pushing horse rides and of the Nile, such as the Ramesseum, or Bedouin headdresses in order to enjoy this climbing down into the tombs of pharaohs & & the Egyptian ancient funerary complex, but no trip to in the Valley of the Kings on the west bank. the Western Mediterranean 2 Marathon Egypt is complete without a photo of you in Time spent watching the sun rise over the J a n u a r y Endurance runners take to March front of the last surviving ancient wonder of Nile or set behind the Theban hills are some the world. of Egypt’s unforgettable moments. Memorial Desert Coast S u e z C a n a l the west bank of the Nile Winter in most of Egypt With warmer days come Temple of Hatshepsut (p219) near Luxor, starting from in Ancient History 3 Nostalgia 333 Nostalgia 333 means balmy days, winds, especially the front of the Temple of Hat- Wilderness 333 Ancient History 333 Ancient History 3 perfect for sightseeing, khamsin, a hot current that shepsut. The race takes place Ecotourism 33 Fun in the Sun 3 Industry 333 but chilly nights, causes periodic, intense DISCOVER POCKET PHRASEBOOK especially in unheated in late January or early Feb- sandstorms lasting a few hotel rooms. Alexandria ruary, followed by a half-mar- hours and often grounding and the Mediterranean athon in Sharm el-Sheikh in flights. Bear this in mind Graeco-Roman Traces Alexandria Cafes Ismailia & coast can be a bit March. For dates, see www. when booking trips Ruined garrisons at Qasr Traces of Alexandria’s cos- Squint just right in down- egyptianmarathon.com. Best-of Pocket-sized rainy, but otherwise through to early May. ad-Dush and Qasr al-Ghue- mopolitan glamour, at its town Ismailia and Port Said, • • ita hint at the lively trade height in the early 20th and you can almost see the is still rare. routes that criss-crossed the century, can still be found be-fezzed pashas and Euro- desolate sands during the in scores of old cafes where pean dandies who built the Cairo February Photo-packed Easy-to-use glory days of the Roman writers Lawrence Durrell, canal, strolling in front of z International April • • Empire. Well before that, Constantine Cavafy and oth- the decaying French-colo- Book Fair The winter chill continues, The khamsin carries the Oracle of foretold ers once mused. nial buildings. With hotels Held at the Cairo opera though it’s the perfect on, and on days when destruction in the 6th cen- of the same vintage, these time of year in the south. Port-City History grounds in the last week it’s not blowing, the Inspirational Highlights tury BC. cities are like museums you of January and the À rst of Tourists think so too, air is pleasantly fresh. • • The Bibliotheca Alexandrina can sleep in too. Wild may have opened in 2002 February (see www.cairo- and and Luxor are This is the shoulder ‘Desert’ doesn’t convey the but its model is the ancient Ancient Waterways bookfair.org for dates), this packed, as are the beaches. season for tourism, and full variety of wild land library that once drew Before the British and here: soak in hot springs or scholars from all over the French opened up the cold pools such as the fa- Mediterranean and beyond. shipping channel between mous Cleopatra’s Bath. The For a portrait of the city Africa and Asia, the phar- White Desert gleams like a from Graeco-Roman times aohs and the dug snow À eld in the full moon. on, visit the excellent Alex- waterways here. See the andria National Museum. archaeological traces at the Ecotourism Ismailia Museum. Few trips are lower impact Fun in the Sun than a camel safari under Seafront pleasures here in- Cruise the Canal the stars. Round out the clude fresh À sh dinners on Watch global commerce in adventure with a stay at one Alexandria’s corniche and action as giant container of several exceptional lodges beaches strung out to the ships transit through the designed to integrate seam- west, mobbed in summer as canal. In Port Said stroll the lessly with the desert land- Egyptians escape the heat. waterside boardwalk then scape and the date-palm One nicer spot is Sidi Abdel hop a free ferry to cruise groves of the oases. Rahman, near the WWII the canal yourself and get a battleground of . glimpse of the action. p 278 Looking for other travel resources? p317 p353

PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 439 Learn about the big picture, so you EGYPT can make sense of what you see

Egypt Today ...... 440 population per sq km Egypt UK USA History ...... 443

≈ 30 people Pharaonic Egypt ...... 461 The Egyptians ...... 480 Egypt Today LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE You say you want a Revolution… The Arts...... 487 It’s all change in Egypt at the moment. After three decades of President For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, Hosni Mubarak’s regime, and almost another three before that under Presidents Nasser and Sadat, Egyptians decided to break the mould. The extent of change is still not known at the time of writing, but two things advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas are clear now as they have been for many years: Egyptians demand their Egyptian Cuisine ...... 494 History right to vote and many of them will use it to support the Muslim Brother chapters The history of Egypt is as rich as the land, as varied as the landscape and hood and more extreme Islamist parties, banned under Mubarak lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine as long as the Nile, longer than most in the world. As recent events have This state of revolution clashes with the idea that Egypt is a lace where time stands still. This is, after all, where Menes united the two shown, it can also be as lively as the character of its people. While much fU LE d hf fh Environment ...... 501 of Europe was still wrapped in animal skins and wielding clubs, ancient Egyptians enjoyed a sophisticated life, dedicated to maintaining order in the universe and to making the most of their one great commodity, the Nile. The Nile STAY IN TOUCH The Nation’s Gift The Gree historian observed that Egypt was the gift of the Ni e an a though it might now be a cliché, it also ha ens to e true. lonelyplanet.com/contact The ancient Egy tians called it simply iteru, the river. Without the Ni e AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-959-0 facebook.com/ 99525 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781741 799590 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

Egypt 11 Cover.indd 2 13/04/2012 2:26:59 PM PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 56 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

1 Egyptian Museum 136 Cairo Outskirts Alexandria & the &theDelta Mediterranean Coast p146 Canal p317 #_ p353 Cairo Sinai p58 p387

Nile Valley: to p169

Siwa Oasis & Nile Valley: Red Sea the Luxor p190 p278 Coast p364

Nile Valley: to Abu Simbel p242

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 507 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

s your name? ) is·mak ay َإﺳﻤﻚ أﻳﻪ؟ ِإﺳﻤﻚ أﻳﻪ؟ Directory A–Z ...... 508 o is·mik ay (f) rity My name is … … is·mee إﺳﻤﻲ … guides Do you speak English? bi·tit·ka·lim/bi·tit·ka·lim·e ﺑﺘﺘﻜﻠﻢ/ﺑﺑﺘﺘﻜﻠﻤﻲ -Transport ...... 521 under (in·gi·lee·zee (m/f إﻧﺠﻠﻴﺰي؟ ,’s in ‘act e’, aw as in as in ‘see’, I don’t understand. (mish fa·him (m ﻣﺶ ﻓﺎﻫﻢ. Language ...... 530 oo’, u as in (mish fah·ma (f ﻣﺶ ﻓﻬﻤﺔ. the Parisian unced as the Can I take a photo? mum·kin a·saw·ar ﻣﻤﻜﻦ ّأﺻﻮر؟ s the ‘s’ in Index ...... 542 dicates the middle of e indicated ACCOMMODATION … fayn ﻓﻴﻦ …؟ ?… Map Legend ...... 550 Where’s a il·mu·khay·am اﻟﻤﺨﻴّﻢ campsite il·ban·see··yo اﻟﺒﻨﺴﻴﻮن guesthouse ’il·fun·du اﻟﻔﻨﺪق hotel bayt ﺑﻴﺖ ﺷﺒﺎب youth hostel

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Zora O’Neill Michael Benanav, Jessica Lee, Anthony Sattin

00-title-egy11.indd 1 13/04/2012 2:08:44 PM Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required

CAIRO ...... 58 Room 14 – Graeco-Roman Tombs of Mir ...... 179 Mummy Portraits ...... 144 GREATER CAIRO...... 125 Deir al-Muharraq ...... 179 Room 34 – Pharaonic ...... 180 Giza ...... 125 Technology ...... 145 ...... 182 Heliopolis ...... 133 Room 43 – Yuya & Thuyu Rooms ...... 145 Abydos ...... 184 EGYPTIAN Room 53 – Animal Qena ...... 187 MUSEUM ...... 136 Mummies ...... 145 MUSEUM TOUR: GROUND Room 37 – Model NILE VALLEY: FLOOR ...... 137 Armies ...... 145 LUXOR ...... 190 Room 43 – Atrium ...... 137 Rooms 32 & 27 – Middle Kingdom Models ...... 145 Room 48 – Early Dynastic NILE VALLEY: ESNA Period ...... 137 TO ABU SIMBEL . . . .242 Rooms 47 & 46 – Old CAIRO OUTSKIRTS & SOUTHERN UPPER Kingdom ...... 137 THE DELTA ...... 146 EGYPT ...... 245 Rooms 42, 37 & 32 – DESERT ENVIRONS . . . . . 148 Esna ...... 245 Masterpieces of the Old Saqqara, Memphis & Al-Kab & Kom Kingdom ...... 138 Dahshur ...... 148 al-Ahmar ...... 246 Room 26 – Al-Fayoum ...... 157 ...... 247 Montuhotep II ...... 140 Wadi Natrun ...... 163 Gebel Silsila ...... 250 Rooms 21 & 16 – Sphinxes ...... 140 THE NILE DELTA ...... 165 ...... 251 Room 12 – Hathor Birqash Camel Market . . 165 ASWAN ...... 253 Shrine ...... 140 Nile Barrages ...... 166 AROUND ASWAN ...... 267 Room 3 – Amarna ...... 166 Aswan Dam ...... 267 Room ...... 140 & Bubastis . . . . . 167 Seheyl Island ...... 267 Room 10 – Ramses II ...... 141 ...... 167 Philae (Agilika Island) ...... 267 Room 34 – Graeco- Roman Room ...... 141 NILE VALLEY: BENI High Dam ...... 269 SUEF TO QENA . . . . . 169 MUSEUM TOUR: FIRST LOWER NUBIA & LAKE FLOOR ...... 141 Beni Suef ...... 171 NASSER ...... 270 Rooms 56 & 46 – Royal Gebel at-Teir & Frazer Lake Nasser ...... 273 Mummies Halls ...... 142 Tombs ...... 172 Kalabsha, Beit al-Wali & Tutankhamun Galleries . . 142 Minya ...... 172 Kertassi ...... 273 Room 4 – Ancient Beni Hasan ...... 175 Wadi as-Subua ...... 274 Egyptian Jewellery ...... 144 Beni Hasan to Tell al- Amada ...... 274 Room 2 – Royal Tombs of Amarna ...... 176 Qasr Ibrim ...... 275 Tanis ...... 144 Tell al-Amarna ...... 176 Abu Simbel ...... 275 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

SIWA OASIS & MEDITERRANEAN Dahab ...... 405 THE WESTERN COAST ...... 345 Ras Abu Gallum DESERT ...... 278 El Alamein ...... 345 Protectorate ...... 416 AL-...... 281 . . . . . 347 ...... 416 Al-Kharga ...... 281 Marsa Matruh ...... 348 Taba ...... 425 Around Al-Kharga ...... 286 ...... 352 SINAI INTERIOR ...... 427 ...... 287 St Katherine SUEZ CANAL ...... 353 Protectorate ...... 428 Mut ...... 288 Port Said ...... 355 Wadi Feiran ...... 435 Around Mut ...... 291 Ismailia ...... 358 Qalaat al-Gindi FARAFRA OASIS ...... 294 Suez ...... 361 & Nakhl ...... 436 Qasr al-Farafra ...... 294 NORTHERN SINAI ...... 436 FARAFRA OASIS TO RED SEA COAST . . . 364 Al- ...... 436 ...... 296 Red Sea Monasteries . . . . 366 Rafah ...... 438 White Desert ...... 296 El-Gouna ...... 369 ...... 297 ...... 370 BAHARIYA OASIS ...... 298 ...... 378 ...... 298 Al-Quseir ...... 379 Around Bawiti ...... 302 & Around . . . 381 SIWA OASIS ...... 304 Eastern Desert ...... 383 BEYOND SIWA...... 316 Berenice ...... 385 Qara Oasis ...... 316 Shalatein ...... 386 ...... 316 SINAI ...... 387 ALEXANDRIA & THE SINAI COAST ...... 392 MEDITERRANEAN Ras Sudr ...... 392 COAST ...... 317 Al-Tor ...... 393 ALEXANDRIA ...... 318 Ras Mohammed National Park ...... 393 AROUND ALEXANDRIA . . 343 Sharm el-Sheikh & Aboukir ...... 343 Na’ama Bay ...... 395 (Ar-Rashid) . . . . . 343 Nabq Protectorate ...... 405 #\ › Egypt #] Tobruk 32°N Alexandria MEDITERRANEAN Egypt’s bustling SEA Al-Burdi #\ Gulf of Sidi Mediterranean port (p318) Sallum #\ #\ Barani Baltim #\ Sallum Marsa 30°E Rosetta #] #\

Matruh 28°E Sidi Abdel #^ Cairo Alexandria Mansura Rahman #^ #] Experience calm in #\ #\ Tanta Cairo’s mosques (p58) #] El Alamein Libyan Wadi Natrun 3333Plateau #] 4444 CAIRO #_ Cairo #\ #\ Pyramids of Giza #äGiza Siwa 3333Qara Mummies at the Oasis Oasis Egyptian Museum (p136) 4 #ø44444444 Lake #ø Qarun Qattara Al-Fayoum #ø #] Depression Oasis #^ 33Siwa 33333 333Medinat 4 444 #^ Giza al-Fayoum The world-famous Beni pyramids (p125) Suef Bahariya 333333Bawiti #ø Oasis 3 Gr #\ eat R R Sa Gebel Gebel nd az-Zuqaq Gala Siwa Se #^ a Black Minya Desert 33 #\ #\ Deir Mawas Ghard Abu Muhariq White Desert #÷ Asyut National Park #] 3#\ Qasr al-Farafra Western (Libyan) 4 Desert #ø Farafra #\ Oasis Abu3 Minqar

Siwa Oasis The ultimate ‘away Dakhla from it all’ (p305) Al-Qasr3#\ Oasis33 #ø Al-Kharga 3Mut #\ 33#^ Al-Kharga Oasis #ø 3#\ Baris

ELEVATION Western Desert Get lost on a desert 1500m safari (p280) 1000m 500m 200m 100m 0

G 0 200 km il e# f K 0 100 miles e Gebel b Uweinat ir R

SUDAN #] #\ Top Experiences ›

32°N

32°E #_ 34°E JERUSALEM JORDAN

Damietta #] Gaza #^ Rafah Port Said #\ 4 #^

Canal Suez Al-Arish3#^ Tanis ISRAEL&THE Monastery of St Anthony #ä PALESTINIAN Ancient Coptic #\ 444444444holy site (p366) 4444 Abu Kebir TERRITORIES #] #^ Zagazig 3 Ismailia Great Bitter Lake4444444 4444 Sinai Mt Sinai Suez #^ Peninsula Thou shalt see sunrise from here (p429) Ain Sukhna #\ 4444#\ #] Taba Aqaba

a Zafarana b Nuweiba a #\ Gulf of Suez #\ q

4444 A Mt Sinai #Ü (Gebel Musa) f o Monastery of (2285m) f Dahab R l St Anthony u The classic beach Dahab#\ 4444 G 44 hang-out (p405) 33#\ 333 Ras Gharib St Katherine Al-Tor #\ Protectorate Sharm el- Eastern Sheikh Tiran & (Arabian) 444#\ Sanafir 4 SAUDIARABIA Desert 333#÷ Islands Ras Mohammed 44 National Park 35°E #^ Red Sea Mountains Hurghada Red Sea Coast Ri A lush underwater 27°N ver Nile world awaits (p364) 4444 #\ Safaga 36°E #^ Sohag RED Al-Balyana SEA #\ 44 #^Qena #\ Al-Quseir Abydos #ä #ä 26°N Abydos & Dendara Dendara #\ Qus Gorgeous temples, few crowds (p184 & p187) Luxor #] 4

Esna #\ Marsa Alam Luxor 44 #\ King Tut slept here (p190) Edfu #\ Gebel 25°N Hamata (1977m) 4 R The Nile Cruise through Egypt Berenice #\ Aswan #^ 4 24°N in style (p27)

38°E

Tropic of Cancer Aswan Heart of Nubia, 23°N Lake then and now (p253) Nasser 444 4 Abu Simbel Boundary #\ 44444 Administrative 4 Abu Simbel 22°N Political Lake Ramses II’s biggest Nubia Boundary temple (p275) #\Wadi Halfa 444 4444 4 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Zora O’Neill Coordinating Author, Cairo, Egyptian Museum, Cairo Outskirts & the Delta Zora fi rst visited the Big Mango in 1992. She spent the summer clubbing, and learned a few verb conjugations. Twenty years on, Zora has earned a Master’s degree in literature and has contributed to more than a dozen guide- books, including an earlier edition of Lonely Planet’s Egypt. She writes about food and travel for the New York Times and Conde Nast Traveler, and is working on a book about Arabic language and travel in the Middle East. She lives in Astoria, Queens, and reads the El-Said Badawi Dictionary of Egyptian Arabic for fun.

Michael Benanav Siwa Oasis & the Western Desert, Alexandria & the Mediterranean Coast Michael cut his adventure-travelling teeth in Egypt back in 1998, and his experiences were so bizarre he fi gured he’d better start writing about them. Since then, he’s authored several books, including Men Of Salt: Crossing the on the Car- avan of White , about traveling with one of the world’s last working camel caravans. He also writes and photographs for the New York Times and other publications. Now that he’s a father, his Egyptian friends call him Abu Lucas.

Jessica Lee Suez Canal, Red Sea Coast, Sinai Jessica escaped small-town New Zealand and high-tailed it for the road at the age of 18, spending much of her 20s traipsing extensively through Asia, Africa and Latin America. She washed up in Egypt in 2004 where she fell in love with the Arabic language and the incredible hospital- ity of the people. Since 2007 she has lived in the Middle East full-time, mostly based in Cairo, and has authored several guidebooks to the region. She tweets about things Middle Eastern @jessofarabia. Read more about Jessica at: lonelyplanet.com/members/jessicalee1

Anthony Sattin Cruising the Nile, Nile Valley chapters, Egypt Today, History, The Egyptians, The Arts, Egyptian Cuisine: Bi-l Hana wa-Shifa!, Environment Anthony has been travelling around and writing about Egypt and Egyptians for more than 20 years. He has contributed to previous editions of Lonely Planet’s Egypt and Discover Egypt, as well as Morocco and Algeria. He contributes to the Sunday Times and Conde Nast Traveler and presents documentaries for BBC radio. Anthony’s nonfi ction includes A Winter on the Nile and Lifting the Veil. Follow him at anthonysattin.com.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 11th edition – July 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 959 0 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. Contributing Author Dr Joann Fletcher wrote the Pharaonic Egypt chapter and several boxed texts. She has a PhD in and is a research and teaching fellow at the University of York, where she teaches Egyptian archaeology and undertakes scientifi c research on everything from mummifi cation to ancient perfumes. Joann regularly appears on TV, has contributed to the BBC History website and has written several books. 24

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Alexandria•#

É É JORDAN É #_

CAIRO É É •# Siwa Oasis Mt Sinai R •# Dahab SAUDI É ARABIA

LIBYA É

Abydos •# •# RED

Dendara É •# SEA

Luxor É

•# Aswan É Lake É Nasser

Four Weeks Egypt Bottom to Top

In a month you can cover most of Egypt’s main sights – a trip of nearly 2000km. Head south from Cairo on the sleeper train to Aswan, where you can soak up Nubian culture and make the side trip to the awesome Abu Simbel. Sail back down the Nile to Luxor on a felucca. If you want to skip the crowds at the big sites, take a boat to Dendara and Abydos instead. When you’ve had your fi ll of ancient ruins, make your way back to the modern metropolis of Cairo. Along with the top sites, make time to sit in one of the city’s bustling ahwas (ca- fes), wreathed in sweet sheesha (water pipe) smoke. After Cairo, take the bus to Siwa Oasis, one of Egypt’s most idyllic spots. After hang- ing out in this tranquil haven, and perhaps going on a desert safari, backtrack along the Mediterranean coast to Alexandria and spend a couple of days in its wonderful cafes and museums. Finally, head for Dahab to recharge and enjoy the laid-back Bedouin vibe, pausing only to arrange the obligatory dive trip and to hike up Mt Sinai. 25

JORDAN CAIRO #_ Siwa Pyramids of Giza •# Oasis •#

PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES TRIP YOUR PLAN É Bahariya Oasis •# SAUDI

Great ARABIA – Sand É # Sea LIBYA #÷ White Desert National Park •# Asyut

Farafra Oasis •# #– É Valley of the Dakhla Kings •# RED Oasis •#•#

•# SEA É Luxor Karnak

É

•# Al-Kharga Oasis •# Aswan

Whistle-Stop Nile Tour

– # Lake Desert Escape Nasser

Abu Simbel •#

One–Two Weeks One–Two Weeks Whistle-Stop Nile Tour Desert Escape

If you pay for domestic plane tickets, Inspired by Lawrence of Arabia and one week is enough time to sample The English Patient scenery, would- Egypt’s top sights. With two weeks, be desert rovers can get sand-happy you can extend your trip to Aswan. in the amazing Western Desert. Three days in Cairo will allow you to Begin with a bus from Cairo or Asyut see the astounding Pyramids of Giza, to Al-Kharga Oasis, the southernmost seek out the treasures of the Egyptian oasis in the Western Desert loop. Spend a Museum and explore the medieval souq day here exploring the Al-Kharga Museum of Khan al-Khalili. Then fl y to Luxor. In of Antiquities as well as the Graeco-Roman three days you can visit most major sights, temples, tombs and other interesting traces including the Valley of the Kings, the Val- of the trade routes that fl ourished here dur- ley of the Queens and Deir al-Bahri on the ing the Roman Empire. west bank of the Nile, as well as the spec- From Al-Kharga, make your way north- tacular temples of Karnak and Luxor on west to Dakhla Oasis to see the fascinating the east bank. hivelike, mud-walled settlements of Balat If you can add another week to your trip, and Al-Qasr. Next, hop north to either Fara- or even a few days, you can head further fra Oasis or Bahariya Oasis, where you south. The long, relaxing version is to spend can make a two- or three-day camp in the four days sailing up the Nile to Aswan on stunning White Desert National Park. a budget-friendly felucca or a luxurious If you have closer to two weeks, then you cruiser; the shorter version is to hop on the can strike west across several hundred kilo- morning train. From Aswan, you absolutely metres of open sands to Siwa Oasis. You’ll must visit Abu Simbel, the grandest of all need to go as part of an organised desert tour, Pharaonic monuments, perched on the edge or hire a 4WD to drive the remote desert of Lake Nasser. Fly there, then to Cairo and highway, one of the most surreal spots in the home. entire country. Perched on the edge of the Great Sand Sea, Siwa is renowned for its dates and and is a great base for ad- ditional dune exploration, should you need it.

26

MEDITERRANEAN SEA Alexandria •# ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN

TERRITORIES É

PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES TRIP YOUR PLAN Exploring the Sinai Petra Urban Jaunt •#

#_ É Pyramids of Giza •# CAIRO

É

JORDAN

Ta b a •# É

Gu

lf of Aqaba Su Mt Sinai É of ez (Gebel Musa) lf SAUDI R Gu ARABIA

•# Dahab

É

É É

St Katherine Protectorate #÷

É

Sharm el-Sheikh •# Ras Mohammed National Park #÷ RED SEA

10–14 Days One Week Exploring the Sinai Urban Jaunt

To sample all the peninsula has to Get a taste of contemporary Egypt off er, spend up to two weeks in its in its two largest cities. First thing in incredible desert landscapes and se- Cairo, head to the Pyramids of Giza, rene underwater world. You’ll also on the city’s western edge. Not only have time to hop across the border to Petra, will you check these sightseeing biggies off in Jordan. your list, you’ll get a sense of the scale of this From Sharm el-Sheikh, arrange a trip megalopolis. Spend the next day wander- to the spectacular reefs of Ras Mohammed ing Islamic Cairo and Al-Azhar Park, on the National Park. Divers will want to head on city’s east edge. For contrast on your third to the Thistlegorm, a sunken British supply day, take the metro to Coptic Cairo and the ship that many consider the world’s best excellent Coptic Museum. Nearby Souq al- wreck dive. For those who prefer snorkel- Fustat makes for easy, attractive souvenir ling, there are fi ne reefs close to shore (and shopping. In the evening, ride a felucca on in Sharm as well). the Nile. On your last day, cafe-hop in leafy Then hop on a bus to Dahab, a laid-back Zamalek and the Cairo Opera grounds. At town dubbed the ‘Ko Samui of the Middle sunset, take the elevator up the Cairo Tower East’. From here, you can arrange camel and for a fi nal view. jeep safaris to such natural wonders as the The next morning, take the express train Coloured Canyon. to Alexandria, rich with Graeco-Roman After a few days’ beach time, lace up your history. The stunning modern Bibliotheca boots and head to the St Katherine Pro- Alexandrina hints at the glory of the ancient tectorate for a trek with a Bedouin guide, library here – stop here and at the excellent as well as a night-time ascent of Mt Sinai Alexandria National Museum. On your sec- (Gebel Musa)to catch a sunrise of biblical ond day, indulge in Alexandria nostalgia: proportions. ride the creaking streetcar and tour cafes In your last few days, take the ferry and where the city’s literati sipped coff ee and bus to the ancient city of Petra. Return, af- scribbled. Thanks to the new airport, you ter two nights, to fl y out of Sharm el-Sheikh. can fl y directly out of Alex. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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