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Egypt – Contents (Chapter) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip Welcome to Egypt .......... 2 17 Top Experiences ........ 6 Welcome to Need to Know ................. 14 Egypt What’s New ..................... 16 If You Like... ..................... 17 COUNTRY & CITYCITY • The original originnal Month by Month ............. 21 • Comprehensive • Adventurous Itineraries ........................ 24 Pyramids & More metropolis is packed with soaring mina- rets, and medieval schools and mosques, With sand-covered tombs, austere pyra- some of the greatest architecture of medi- mids and towering Pharaonic temples, 6 eval Islam. At the same time, Egypt’s native Egypt brings out the explorer in all of us. Christians, the Copts, have carried on their Visit the Valley of the Kings in Luxor, where traditions that in many respects – such as Tutankhamun’s tomb was unearthed, and the church’s liturgical language and the see the glittering À nds in the Egyptian Mu- traditional calendar – link back to the time Cruising the Nile ............. 27 seum in Cairo. Hop oՖ a Nile boat to visit a of the pharaohs. Tap into the history in re- waterside temple, or trek into the desert to mote monasteries and ancient churches. À nd the traces of Roman trading outposts. You never know – your donkey might stum- Beaches & Beyond ble across yet another À nd, just as many previous discoveries were made. That empty beach with nothing but a candlelit cabin, and a teeming coral reef Diving the Red Sea ......... 36 Two Religions oՖ shore: they’re waiting for you in Egypt. The coast along the Red Sea has a rugged Egypt once ruled an empire from al- desert beauty above the waterline and a 17 Qahira – Cairo, the City Victorious. The Travel with Children ...... 49 TOP EXPERIENCES Regions at a Glance ....... 52 21 T o p E v e n t s Month Dahab Festival, April 54 by Ramadan, July Eid al-Adha, October Pyramids of Giza Luxor Towering over the urban sprawl of With the greatest concentration of Month Siyaha, October 1 Cairo and the desert plains beyond, the 2 ancient Egyptian monuments anywhere Pyramids of Giza (p 125 ) and the Sphinx in Egypt, Luxor (p 190 ) rewards time spent PLAN YOUR TRIP Cairo International Film are at the top of every traveller’s itinerary. here. You can spend days or weeks around Festival, November Bring lots of water, an empty memory card this town, walking through the columned and plenty of patience! You’ll have to fend halls of the great temples on the east bank oՖ lots of people pushing horse rides and of the Nile, such as the Ramesseum, or Bedouin headdresses in order to enjoy this climbing down into the tombs of pharaohs Siwa Oasis & Alexandria & the Egyptian ancient funerary complex, but no trip to in the Valley of the Kings on the west bank. Marathon Egypt is complete without a photo of you in Time spent watching the sun rise over the the Western Mediterranean 2 front of the last surviving ancient wonder of Nile or set behind the Theban hills are some REGIONS A GLANCE AT J a n u a r y Endurance runners take to March the world. of Egypt’s unforgettable moments. Memorial Desert Coast S u e z C a n a l the west bank of the Nile Winter in most of Egypt With warmer days come Temple of Hatshepsut (p219) near Luxor, starting from in Ancient History 3 Nostalgia 333 Nostalgia 333 means balmy days, winds, especially the front of the Temple of Hat- Wilderness 333 Ancient History 333 Ancient History 3 perfect for sightseeing, khamsin, a hot current that shepsut. The race takes place Ecotourism 33 Fun in the Sun 3 Industry 333 but chilly nights, causes periodic, intense DISCOVER POCKET PHRASEBOOK especially in unheated in late January or early Feb- sandstorms lasting a few hotel rooms. Alexandria ruary, followed by a half-mar- hours and often grounding and the Mediterranean athon in Sharm el-Sheikh in flights. Bear this in mind Graeco-Roman Traces Alexandria Cafes Ismailia & Port Said coast can be a bit March. For dates, see www. when booking trips Ruined garrisons at Qasr Traces of Alexandria’s cos- Squint just right in down- egyptianmarathon.com. Best-of Pocket-sized rainy, but otherwise through to early May. ad-Dush and Qasr al-Ghue- mopolitan glamour, at its town Ismailia and Port Said, • • ita hint at the lively trade height in the early 20th and you can almost see the precipitation is still rare. routes that criss-crossed the century, can still be found be-fezzed pashas and Euro- desolate sands during the in scores of old cafes where pean dandies who built the Cairo February Photo-packed Easy-to-use glory days of the Roman writers Lawrence Durrell, canal, strolling in front of zInternational April • • Empire. Well before that, Constantine Cavafy and oth- the decaying French-colo- Book Fair The winter chill continues, The khamsin carries the Oracle of Amun foretold ers once mused. nial buildings. With hotels Held at the Cairo opera though it’s the perfect on, and on days when destruction in the 6th cen- of the same vintage, these time of year in the south. Port-City History grounds in the last week it’s not blowing, the Inspirational Highlights tury BC. cities are like museums you of January and the À rst of Tourists think so too, air is pleasantly fresh. • • The Bibliotheca Alexandrina can sleep in too. Wild Deserts may have opened in 2002 February (see www.cairo- and Aswan and Luxor are This is the shoulder ‘Desert’ doesn’t convey the but its model is the ancient Ancient Waterways bookfair.org for dates), this packed, as are the beaches. season for tourism, and full variety of wild land library that once drew Before the British and here: soak in hot springs or scholars from all over the French opened up the cold pools such as the fa- Mediterranean and beyond. shipping channel between mous Cleopatra’s Bath. The For a portrait of the city Africa and Asia, the phar- White Desert gleams like a from Graeco-Roman times aohs and the Greeks dug snow À eld in the full moon. on, visit the excellent Alex- waterways here. See the andria National Museum. archaeological traces at the Ecotourism Ismailia Museum. Few trips are lower impact Fun in the Sun than a camel safari under Seafront pleasures here in- Cruise the Canal the stars. Round out the clude fresh À sh dinners on Watch global commerce in adventure with a stay at one Alexandria’s corniche and action as giant container of several exceptional lodges beaches strung out to the ships transit through the designed to integrate seam- west, mobbed in summer as canal. In Port Said stroll the lessly with the desert land- Egyptians escape the heat. waterside boardwalk then scape and the date-palm One nicer spot is Sidi Abdel hop a free ferry to cruise groves of the oases. Rahman, near the WWII the canal yourself and get a battleground of El Alamein. glimpse of the action. p 278 Looking for other travel resources? p 317 p 353 PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 439 Learn about the big picture, so you EGYPT can make sense of what you see Egypt Today .................... 440 population per sq km Egypt UK USA History ............................. 443 ≈ 30 people Pharaonic Egypt ............. 461 The Egyptians ................. 480 Egypt Today LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE You say you want a Revolution… The Arts........................... 487 It’s all change in Egypt at the moment. After three decades of President For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, Hosni Mubarak’s regime, and almost another three before that under Presidents Nasser and Sadat, Egyptians decided to break the mould. The extent of change is still not known at the time of writing, but two things advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas are clear now as they have been for many years: Egyptians demand their Egyptian Cuisine ............ 494 History right to vote and many of them will use it to support the Muslim Brother chapters The history of Egypt is as rich as the land, as varied as the landscape and hood and more extreme Islamist parties, banned under Mubarak lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine as long as the Nile, longer than most in the world. As recent events have This state of revolution clashes with the idea that Egypt is a lace where time stands still. This is, after all, where Menes united the two shown, it can also be as lively as the character of its people. While much fU LE d hf fh Environment ................... 501 of Europe was still wrapped in animal skins and wielding clubs, ancient Egyptians enjoyed a sophisticated life, dedicated to maintaining order in the universe and to making the most of their one great commodity, the Nile. The Nile STAY IN TOUCH The Nation’s Gift The Gree historian Herodotus observed that Egypt was the gift of the Ni e an a though it might now be a cliché, it also ha ens to e true. lonelyplanet.com/contact The ancient Egy tians called it simply iteru, the river. Without the Ni e AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-959-0 facebook.com/ 99525 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards.
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