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The Isle of Bute in the Olden Time

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The Isle of Bute in the Olden Time GJmrnell Uttioerattg ffiibtaty 3tljaca, New $otrk fflljUe JSjtstorital Sithrary THE GIFT OF PRESIDENT WHITE MAINTAINED BY THE UNIVERSITY IN ACCORD- ANCE WITH THE PROVISIONS OF THE GIFT The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924088022300 CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 1924 088 022 300 The Isle of Bute in the Olden Time DAL OIRIRGAEL BOT ROTHERSAY Instruxit Ja-c.K. Hewisoa MA 1893 LAGAN f. GUMMING, The Isle of Bute in the Olden Time WITH ILLUSTRATIONS, MAPS, AND PLANS JAMES KING HEWISON, M.A., F.S.A. (Scot.) MINISTER OF ROTHESAY EDITOR OF 'CERTAIN TRACTATES BY NINIAN WINZET* VOL. I. CELTIC AND SAINTS HEROES WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS EDINBURGH AND LONDON MDCCCXCIII St All Rights reserved TO JOHN MARQUESS OF BUTE, K.T. PREFACE. This work embodies the results of some studies of the history of the Isle of Bute, suggested to me here by visible relics of the olden time. It is the product of the few leisure hours which could be gathered up for several years out of a busy clerical life. As a labour of love it has been executed with much difficulty, since so important a subject demanded much research among authorities, manuscript and printed, in the National Record Offices and great libraries, access to which is not easy to students in the country, who have a limited time at their disposal to ransack rare and expensive works. In writing I have kept in view the purpose of pro- ducing a readable book, as much as possible free from technical phraseology, so that the ordinary reader may not be wearied with multitudinous details which the pure antiquary considers imperative ; and I have en- viii Preface. deavoured to strike the golden mean without defraud- ing the subject of its primary demand for definite accuracy. It will have fulfilled my design if it causes those who are privileged to breathe the fragrant air of Bute to take a protective interest in those fascinating frag- ments preserved here, and if it draws upon these relics the attention of others who love antiquities. Bute has already been fortunate in having local historians who have made good use of the scanty materials available for the more modern epochs of history. Their labours will be more fitly acknow- ledged, and a bibliography of their works given, in the second volume. Recent research, however, has opened up richer treasure-houses to the chronicler, and invested the decaying memorials of eld with a new romantic interest. Merit I venture to claim for this new work in respect of the exquisite architectural illustrations of St Blaan's Church prepared by Mr William Galloway, architect, who has laid me under deepest obligation by permitting reduced copies to be taken of his draw- ings of that interesting edifice, and of the similarly fine work of Mr James Walker, architect, Paisley. I have to thank the Society of Antiquaries of Scot- Preface. ix land for the use of several engravings of objects found in Bute. The minor illustrations have been prepared from drawings by my own pen. I have also to acknowledge obligations to the Rev. ' J. B. Johnstone, B.D., Falkirk, author of Place- Names of Scotland'; the Rev. John Dewar, B.D., Kilmartin ; and the Rev. D. Dewar, Applecross, who have kindly given me valuable aid in reference to the "Appendix on Place - Names," for which, as it stands, I am entirely responsible : as well as to Mr James Kay, forester, Bute ; the Rev. John Saunders, Dewar, M.A., B.D., Kingarth ; and the Rev. Peter North Bute, who have kindly assisted me in my . inquiries. The second volume will contain chapters on the Homes and Haunts of the Stewarts, the Roman and Reformed Churches, the Burgh of Rothesay, the Brandanes, the Barons of Bute, and the House of Stuart, and will be illustrated. J. KING HEWISON. The Manse, Rothesay, September 1893. 3 CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. what's in a NAME? . .1 II. PREHISTORIC INHABITANTS, . 20 III. MONUMENTS OF UNRECORDED TIMES, 36 IV. THE INTRODUCTION OF CHRISTIANITY — THE BRITISH CHURCH, . .... 84 V. THE IRISH CHURCH, . 107 VI. THE HERMITS, . 122 VII. THE CHRISTIAN ODYSSEY, . 141 VIII. BELTED KING AND ROYAL ABBOT, . 154 IX. "BLAAN THE MILD OF CENNGARAD," . 167 X. THE CONSECRATED COLONY, . 1 92 XI. THE SEVEN SLEEPERS, . 201 XII. MOSS-GROWN RELICS OF THE CELTIC CHURCH, . 21 XIII. THE NORTHMEN AND VIKINGS (GENEALOGICAL TABLES OF THE ROYAL LINE OF MAN ; OF THE SOMERLEDIAN LINE), ..... 236 XIV. THE BISHOPS OF SODOR AND MAN, . 260 xii Contents. APPENDICES. I. THE ISLES OF CUMBRAE, . .281 II. CHARTER DISPONING THE CHURCH OF KINGARTH TO PAISLEY, ....... 284 III. EXTRACTS FROM DEAN MUNRO'S 'DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN ISLES,' ...... 285 IV. EXTRACTS FROM MARTIN'S 'DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN ISLANDS,' ....... 287 V. PLACE-NAMES IN BUTE, .... .288 ERRATA, ....... 300 INDEX, . 30I — LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. ON SEPARATE PAGES. map, bot sive . '. rothersay, . By J K. Hewison, Frontispiece GRAVESTONE IN ST BLAAN's CHURCH-) Vignette YARD (KILBLAAN), ) MAP BRITANNIA, OF FROM PTOLEMY, 5 the deil's cauldron at kilblaan, By Mr James Walker, 20 CRANNOGES IN DHU LOCH 1 By Mr John Mackinlay, \ 44 and loch quien, ) By Mr James Kay, dunagoil fort, 54 Michael's grave, 66 carnbaan, By J. K. Hewison, 74 kilmachalmaig circle, 80 kilmichel church, exterior, 112 ii ii INTERIOR, 114 ST BLAAN'S CHURCH GROUND -PLAN OF CHURCH, CHURCHYARD, AND PRECINCTS, BEFORE 1874, ...... 166 SOUTH WALL OF CHANCEL—INTERIOR ELEVATION, SHOWING the original church, . By Mr Wm. Galloway, . '75 GABLE BETWEEN NAVE AND 1 ) 180 CHANCEL—WEST ELEVATION.; 1 xiv List of Illustrations. ST blaan's church— chancel arch, . By Mr Wm. Galloway, . 182 GABLE BETWEEN NAVE AND "| 1 84 CHANCEL—EAST ELEVATION, / EASTERN GABLE—EXTERIOR ELEVATION, n n l86 SOUTH WALL OF CHANCEL—EX-1 TERIOR ELEVATION, J general view from s.w., . By Mr James Walker, . 192 EASTERN GABLE—INTERIOR EL- "| By Mr Wm. Galloway, . 200 J- EVATION, . J CROSS OR GRAVE-SLAB IN ROTHESAY CASTLE, . 232 IN THE TEXT. GROUND-PLAN OF CASTLE CREE, ... 49 11 11 AULTMORE FORT, . SI 11 11 DUNBURGIDALE FORT, . 54 VIEW OF DUNAGOIL FORT, . .... 56 sections OF vitrified wall, dunagoil, By Mr John Honeyman, 58 WEST VIEW OF VITRIFIED WALL AT DUNAGOIL, . 59 SECTION OF VITRIFIED WALL ON EILEAN BUIDHE, . 60 GROUND-PLAN OF VITRIFIED FORT ON EILEAN BUIDHE, . 60 STONE AXE FOUND ON AMBRISBEG HILL, . .64 VIEW OF DOLMEN AT BICKER'S HOUSES, . -65 CINERARY URN FOUND AT MOUNTSTUART, 69 JET NECKLACE FOUND AT MOUNTSTUART, . 70 TREPANNED SKULL FOUND AT MOUNTSTUART, . 7 PLAN OF CIST OR CELL IN CARNBAAN, . TJ VIEW OF STONE CIRCLE AT BLACKPARK, KINGARTH, . 79 GROUND-PLAN OF STONE CIRCLE AT KILMACHALMAIG, . 8 GOLD RINGS, FILLETS, AND BAR OF SILVER FOUND ON PLAN FARM, 82 THE FIRST CHURCH OF THE CHRISTIANS IN BRITAIN, . 90 List of Illustrations. xv GROUND-PLAN OF ST NINIAN'S CHURCH AND "CASHEL," . 96 GROUND-PLAN OF KILMICHEL, . 1 13 kilmachalmaig cross, . From Photo by Miss S. Macrae, 116 FIGURE OF SWASTIKA ON KILMACHALMAIG CROSS, . 117 HEAD OF CROSS WITH RUNIC INSCRIPTION FOUND ON INCHMAR- NOCK, . 135 FOOT- FONT AT KILBLAAN, . 1 79 GROUND-PLAN OF ST BLAAN'S CHURCH, ... 182 SOCKET OF CROSS AT KILBLAAN, . I93 THE BELL OF ST FILLAN, .... 1 97 MARKS ON GRAVE-SLABS IN KILBLAAN CHURCHYARD, . 215 MARKS ON GRAVE-SLABS AT KILBLAAN, . 2l6 GRAVESTONE FOUND AT KILBLAAN, . 217 GRAVESTONES AT KILBLAAN, . 2l8 HEAD OF CROSS FOUND AT KILBLAAN, 219 GRAVESTONE AT KILBLAAN, .... 219 ORNAMENT INSCRIBED ON GRAVE-SLAB AT KILBLAAN, . 219 ORNAMENT INSCRIBED ON GRAVE-SLAB AT KILBLAAN, . 220 GRAVE-SLAB IN KILBLAAN CHURCHYARD, . 221 GRAVE-SLAB AT KILBLAAN, . 221 GRAVESTONE FOUND IN INCHMARNOCK, . 222 GRAVESTONE, OR CROSS-SHAFT, FOUND IN INCHMARNOCK, . 223 ( From Photo by Miss S. CROSS IN ROTHESAY CHURCHYARD, -J I Macrae, . 226 THE ISLE OF BUTE IN THE OLDEN TIME. CHAPTER I. what's in a name? 2 Bute in the Olden Time. nificance as may be found embalmed in the names of pi; and of individuals, and in customs dead or dying. These n are monumental. The synthetic method of reuniting tl broken fragments in order to form a symmetrical work wh like a symbol, may represent in miniature the results of successive streams of life which once pulsated in the indi uals, tribes, and nation of Alban, must not be finally app until, after accurate scrutiny, these fragile survivals prove homogeneous as naturally to fuse into a unity. This is perative where, as in the case of Bute, historic recorc scanty, local legend is sorely detrited, and the lingui impressions, from the moulds in which the early races < their thoughts, have been as rudely broken by foreign vaders as their homes and temples by ruthless iconocla Though delicate its work, Archaeology, like every other e> science, is not now content to see its peculiar field o garnished with gossamers, which no explorer's foot dare br< nor its dear stones left under a mantle of moss to be scor into oblivion. Its tool is no hammer to break, but the li hand whose magnetism subtly picks from out the rust ages an enduring body,—in lack only of the reinspiratior its departed spirit. As that boon companion of the Ce missionary — the Anmchara, or soul-friend — carried in breast the other's confidences, so must the student of '. bear in himself the genii of his silent teachers of the mc tain and the muirland, so that when, in his love, he touc their " Worn faces that look deaf and blind, Like tragic marks of stone," they may utter the weird tale of a wondrous past to him.
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