HERITAGE TRAIL EXPLORE

Inishowen is exceptional in terms of the outstanding beauty of its geography and in the way that the traces of its history survive to this day, conveying an evocative picture of a vibrant past. We invite you to take this fascinating historical tour of Inishowen which will lead you on a journey through its historical past. Immerse yourself in fascinating cultural and heritage sites some of which date back to early settlements, including ancient forts, castle’s, stone circles and high to name but a few. Make this trail your starting point as you begin your exploration of the rich historical tapestry of the Inishowen peninsula. However, there are still hundreds of additional heritage sites left for you to discover.

For further reading and background information: Ancient Monuments of Inishowen, North ; Séan Beattie. Inishowen, A Journey Through Its Past Revisited; Neil Mc Grory. www.inishowenheritage.ie www.curiousireland. ie

Images supplied by: Adam Porter, Liam Rainey, Denise Henry, Brendan Diver, Ronan O’Doherty, Mark Willett, Donal Kearney.

Please note that some of the monuments listed are on private land, fortunately the majority of land owners do not object to visitors. However please respect their property and follow the Country Code. For queries contact Explore Inishowen, Inishowen Tourist Office +353 (0)74 93 63451 / Email: [email protected]

As you explore Inishowen’s spectacular Heritage Trail, you’ll discover one of ’s most beautiful scenic regions. Take in the stunning coastline; try your hand at an exhilarating outdoor pursuit such as horse riding, kayaking or surfing. World - class golf, endless white sandy beaches, great food, and lively entertainment, where a warm welcome awaits you.

Cover images courtesy of Adam Porter (front cover) and Liam Rainey (back cover).

With special thanks to John Hegarty for his assistance’. 01 AN GRIANÁN OF 02 ST MURA’S , AILEACH, BURT

GPS: 55.023834, -7.427674 GPS: 55.083139, -7.460814

Directions: 4km from Bridgend on the Directions: Take R238 south from N13 in the direction of . for 7km toward Fahan. At Burt Circular Chapel (St Aengus’), Situated in the graveyard of the old turn left at the signposted road and abbey on the left side of the road. This continue up to the hill summit. This monument is well signposted. monument is well signposted. Fahan is the site of the ancient Abbey of A prehistoric enclosure built of dry stones St. Mura who was born in on Grianán Hill, which rises to a height circ. 550 AD and died around 645 AD. He of 808ft (246m) and commands views became the Patron saint of the ’Cineal over as well as an extensive Eoghain’ of Inishowen and Tyrone and panorama covering at least four his feast day is celebrated on the 12th of counties. The hill we know as an Grianán March. On this day the ’Cineal Eoghain’ Ailigh has dominated the Inishowen would make a ’turas’ to Fahan Mura and landscape for upwards of 4000 years. pray at his ’Holy Well’ at the foreshore The Neolithic burial chamber, uncovered close to the monastic site which is during restoration work in the 1870’s, preserved still in situ. Founded in the dates from 2000BC. When the sons of early 7th Century, the abbey has been Niall of the Nine Hostages moved North used for religious activities for over 1000 in 395AD to conquer new lands, Prince years. Sited in the graveyard is St. Mura’s Eoghan (Owen) is said to have made the Cross/Slab. Local tradition states that site of Elaghmore (AileachMor) castle this stone, in the shape of an ordinary (about 3 km north east of Burt) his power gravestone, marks the saint’s grave. base, and gave his name to Inishowen The cross is decorated on both sides (Island of Eoghan) and Tyrone (land of and inscribed with interlacing patterns Eoghan). The way of life for this warrior - displaying a high level of craftsmanship. based society was changed forever with Its design pre-dates the high crosses the arrival of Christianity brought by St of Ireland. Also on this site is the grave Patrick who baptised Owen at the well of of Agnes Jones, a contemporary of ’The Grianán Aileach’, (The sunny place Florence Nightingale who set up the first of Aileach). nursing training school in Liverpool. 03 O’DOHERTY’S KEEP, 04 ST. ’S BUNCRANA CHURCH, STRAID, GPS: 55.139804, -7.462873 GPS: 55.265296, -7.429022

Directions: 1.5km north of Buncrana Directions: 12km south west of Tourist Office, located near Castle Clonmany village on the R238 on the Bridge at the mouth of the Crana right hand side before the Waterfall River. at the Glen House.

The O’Dohertys were the Gaelic lords As well as being the perfect vantage of late medieval Inishowen after the point from which to appreciate the departure of the Normans who in natural beauty of Cluain Maine (Maine’s turn, had defeated the McLaughlins meadow), St Columba’s Church, (or The (original Cineal Eoghain) at the battle of Old Church, as it is known locally), is “Cameirg” in 1241. This small tower house steeped in local history. The original 7th on the Crana River was of secondary century monastery on the site became importance to their main strongholds the centre of the parish system in the at Elagh and Burt. Of Anglo-Norman middle ages. In 1610 the established influence, the exact date of the original Church acquired the site and the present two storey structure is uncertain structure, commissioned by the Earl (probably 1410-1430). Its third storey Bishop of , was built in 1772. In the and other modifications were added 18th century, its Rector Donal Mc Laughlin towards the end of the Nine Years War, resided in a magnificent mansion, while around 1602, for the young Sir Cahir Rua his brother, Peadar, a poor Franciscan O’Doherty, the last Lord of Inishowen. friar, hid out in the nearby hills. In the Following Cahir’s failed rebellion and graveyard, the ancient families of death in 1608 the English crown’s Lord Chichester and O’Neill, Planter and Gael Deputy, Arthur Chichester, secured most lie side by side with infamous landlords, of Inishowen for himself. In the Plantation local poets and the ordinary Catholic and of (c.1610) he leased the ‘Keep’ Protestant people of Clonmany. and its lands to Captain Henry Vaughan, an English army veteran. Vaughan’s grandson Colonel George Vaughan built the nearby manor house; Buncrana Castle, between, 1716 -18. 05 CARRICKABRAGHY 06 THE MARIGOLD STONE, CASTLE, GPS: 55.316003, -7.372384 GPS: 55.249874, -7.272825

Directions: Take the R238 north from Directions: Next to the Carndonagh for 2.5km. At the junction High Cross, inside the adjacent turn left. Follow the road then turn Church of Ireland cemetery, stands left at the Famine Village junction. the ’Marigold stone’. Continue till the Castle is clearly visible from the road. It is located at the centre of an ancient ‘Double Ditch’ that typically surrounded During the Viking era Carrickabraghy monastic sites of St. Patrick’s era. The was an important administrative centre, west face bears a flabellum (a liturgical ruled by the Mc Fauls (Ó Maolfhabaháil). fan) consisting of a large circle with a The Annals of the Four Masters (1636) seven petalled marigold inside it. Below record (sometimes with Viking names, the flabellum are two loops used for indicating that they had intermarried), either holding the fan or hanging it up. that they were lords of Carrickabraghy On each side of the handle are two between 834 A.D and 1200 A.D. figures, each one holding what may be Carrickabraghy Castle, built in the 16th a crosier or staff and carrying a satchel, century is strategically situated on a generally thought to represent pilgrims rocky outcrop, overlooking Trawbreaga and below is a cross of arcs (often Bay. It is one of four remaining O Doherty associated with pilgrimage). The east Castles in the Inishowen peninsula and face shows a crucifixion scene depicting it was occupied by Phelim Breaslaigh the figure of Christ upon an equal O Doherty in 1600. It was here in 1608 armed cross but unusually, his head that Cahir O Doherty, the last Chieftain protrudes above the pillar stone. A band of Inishowen, planned his ill-fated of represents the shaft of the rebellion. Following his execution, the cross, finishing with a tripartite knot. At ensued and in 1610 either side is a figure that may represent the original keep was enclosed by Longinus and Stephaton. Below the adding the circular tower and a bawn knot is another equal armed cross with wall for protection. The Castle has been interlace carving. uninhabited since 1665. 07 DONAGH CROSS, 08 WEE HOUSE OF CARNDONAGH MALIN,

GPS: 55.249924, -7.272109 GPS: 55.368169, -7.317768

Directions: Take R238 from Ballyliffin Directions: Take R242 from Malin for for 9.5km. Just before the town centre 8.5km. At the junction, take 2nd right. along the roadside on your left, beside Pass Mullin’s Shop by your left and the Donagh Church continue for 2km until junction with sharp left turn. ‘The Wee House of Dating from the 7th century, antiquarians Malin’ is signposted at this junction consider St Patrick’s cross to be one of and is situated on the shore side at the finest remaining examples in Ireland the bottom of a steep hill ahead. of low-relief carved monuments. Carved out of a single stone of hard, laminated The ‘Wee House of Malin’ refers to a cave, sandstone, it has a simple shape with where folklore has it that no matter how short arms gently curving from the shaft. many people enter it will accommodate Its unusual decoration is combining all. The cave and holy well (located in a bands of interlaced ribbon with simplified cavern underneath the large rock on the figures in low relief. The central image shore in front of the cave) were originally may depict the Crucifixion scene or the associated with the belief in the sanctity Transfiguration and the body- flanking of water. In front of the cave is a monastic figures could either be Mary and John, foundation and local tradition claims the two thieves or possibly soldiers. The that the original foundation was built figures flanking the head are thought to exorcise evil from the area. The well to be angels. Below are three figures is believed to have been blessed by St wearing cowls and long robes, perhaps Muirdhealach. The traditional holy day, representing the holy women who visited 15th August, was celebrated with masses Christ’s tomb after the resurrection. and a community celebration including The pillar stones on either side of the prayer, entertainment and a pilgrimage cross are covered with figures and other to the well and continues to the present biblical images. The cross now stands day. A stone head removed from the adjacent to Donagh Church having been gable of the church ruin is now housed removed from its original site across the in the National Museum in . This road. enchanting site has a colourful history. 09 CLONCHA HIGH 10 HIGH CROSS, CROSS, CULDAFF

GPS: 55.275963, -7.141118 GPS: 55.256384, -7.189454

Directions: Take R238 for 1.5km south Directions: (See Cloncha Cross). from Culdaff, at St Mary’s Church turn Continue from Cloncha Cross for a left. Continue approximately 1.8km further 1.8km. Carrowmore Crosses along this road, it is in a field on the are in a field on the left. This site is left. It is well signposted signposted from the main road.

Cloncha is the site of one of the Two high crosses stand on a sloping hill most important foundations in the at Carrowmore. They are all that now development of Christianity in Inishowen. remains of the monastery believed to be It was a significant centre from the sixth ‘Both Chonais’. This foundation pre-dates century onwards, favoured by bishops as Cloncha and the “Double Ditch” located a final resting place. The glory of Cloncha in 2014, indicates this to be a monastic is the striking high cross, standing 4m site of St. Patrick’s era. The crosses are tall, in the field just beside the church less ornate than those at Cloncha, but ruin. There is another partially complete there is something dramatic in their cross, but fallen, in the same field. Inside form, echoing the older form of the the ruined 17th century planter’s Church standing stone. Only traces of the actual (which replaced the older church) are monastery now exist - but the crosses, some beautiful carved stones. Cloncha slab and cross-inscribed rock suggest was the centre of conversion for a large that a more expansive centre existed. part of Inishowen. The original monastery All of the original buildings on the site was much larger and some of the stones have disappeared and the actual site and crosses are now held in the National itself is divided in two by a modern road. Museum. Its influence was great and Close by, a holy well links this Christian the close proximity of Carrowmore and settlement with the Celtic past. another foundation at Culdaff, indicates that this area was a great seat of skill and learning. 11 BOCAN STONE 12 TEMPLE OF DEEN, CIRCLE, CULDAFF CULDAFF

GPS: 55.272339, -7.14823 GPS: 55.269587, -7.146621

Directions: Take R238 south for 2km Directions: Take R238 for 2.5km south from Culdaff in the direction of . from Culdaff. Situated on top of the low Take the 1st left past the Parochial hill of Deen, on the right. (Just a few House. It stands on a hill in a field metres past the road taken to Bocan beside the Parochial House at Bocan. , on the opposite side of the road). This monument stands in a When seen from afar, Bocan Stone Circle field on the right approximately 0.5km appears insignificant; lost behind trees along this dirt track. and dwarfed by more modern structures but when viewed in close proximity its A wedge-tomb, which appears to have full glory comes to life. Situated on the been covered with a cairn of small hill of Bocan it commands magnificent boulders suggesting that the structure views of Sliabh Sneacht to Trawbreaga remaining, would have been only the Bay to Glengad, particularly impressive central chamber of a huge monument. when viewed at either sunrise or sunset. Since no proper excavation has ever taken It is suggested that stone circles were place at either Deen or Bocan it is difficult original sun temples. Many of the 30 to determine whether these monuments original stones were removed during were constructed at the same time or indiscriminate land development by the same people. However, deduced partially destroying the complete from experience elsewhere, it is likely circular form. However, the remaining that they were constructed by the same stones are up to 7ft tall and easily evoke race but possibly at distinct periods imaginings of images of sacred rites (sometime during the Bronze Age). The being performed, and wonderings of close proximity and records of other the people that built this structure. The notable monuments would suggest that date of its construction is unclear but has this area was important or significant in been suggested at between 1500 - 3000 spiritual terms for the people of that era. BC. 13 COOLEY CROSS 14 NORTHBURG CASTLE, & SKULL HOUSE, GREENCASTLE MOVILLE GPS: 55.188839, -7.061632 GPS: 55.205278, -6.975294

Directions: Take R238 Moville to Derry Directions: Take R241 from Moville to road till you see petrol station on left. Greencastle. At the National Fisheries Approx. 60m further take right turn College turn right on to the Stroove at signposted road. This site is well Road and follow for. Easily viewed signposted. from the road or from the shore path walk (accessed via the main village The name can be spelt Cooly or Cooley car park. and translates as ‘The Quarterland of the Woodland’. The old Irish name The castle was built by the Norman lord, was ‘Maigh Bhile’ which translates as Richard de Burgo in 1305. His grandson, ‘The Plain of the Ancient (Sacred)Tree’ William succeeded to the Earldom in Evidence shows that this was a Druidic 1328 but became involved in a quarrel site in the Iron Age and two earthen with his cousin Walter who belonged ring circles were confirmed to enclose to the Connaught branch of the family. the site in 2013. It is recorded that St. William imprisoned his cousin in a Patrick founded a church here in 442AD dungeon and starved him to death. This which developed into a Monastery by event is commemorated by a skeleton on the 6th century and survived until the the coat of arms of the City of Derry. After introduction of the parochial system the Plantation, the castle was granted to in the 12th century. A “Double Ditch” Sir Arthur Chichester but subsequently surrounding the monastic settlement fell into ruins. was discovered in 2015, affirming this to be an ancient site in the style of a “St. Patrick” site. A parochial church remained until the 17th century, the ruins of two can be still found. Cooley has a rich collection of Wheel - Head crosses, the High Cross at the entrance and seven other examples inside the graveyard. An additional free self- guide map of this site is available in local businesses. 15 MORTON GOD 16 FATHER HEGARTY’S , MUFF ROCK, BUNCRANA

GPS: 55.089479, -7.294858 GPS: 55.148391,-7.4810000

Directions: Situated in the middle Directions: WALKING. From Explore of boggy land. Follow L1891), 0.75 Inishowen Tourist Office head north for km past the church at Iskaheen - a 150m. Turn left at Aileach Road. Cross distance of approx. 3.25km from the the car park till you meet the Shore R238 at Muff village. The dolmen is Front Walking Path, follow northward visible from the road on a downward for approx. 2.5km or 45 minutes. The sloping lane on the left, approx. grave will be on the right and the rock 0.25km from the road. on the left sides.

The hills behind the village of Iskaheen In 1709, British Penal Laws forced non offer an imposing setting for the largest Church of Ireland Clergy to take an portal tomb (dolmen) in Inishowen with oath of abjuration or face execution. a capstone thought to weigh around 30 Subsequently Priests were forced to tons. There appears to be traces of a practice their faith in secret – a perilous cairn at its base. The precise reason for risk as there was a £5 reward for a priest’s its name is unclear. Originally referred head. When the authorities were alerted to as a ’s altar (albeit incorrectly) it to the local priest, Father James Hegarty, was thought that this type of monument he attempted to flee by swimming across was used for sacrifice or some other . Tricked into believing he rite, but investigations have shown that would be spared, he returned to shore these monuments marked burial places, where he was immediately beheaded. probably even predating the arrival of Some say his head bounced eight or nine the . This tomb is situated in bog times off several rocks before landing, land but it is important to note that in the where the patches of land are said to period of its construction, Ireland had show no signs of greenery since. His a warmer climate and the present day body was buried at the site of his death. bogs were forest. This means that this He is believed to have been the last tomb would have been many feet higher priest to have been massacred under and even more imposing. penal laws. Another source of intrigue is that the rock itself bears a crack in the image of a cross. 17 AMAZING GRACE 18 LANDS OF EOGHAN & LOUGH SWILLY

GPS: 55.1286000,-7.458213 The Lands of Eoghan festival was GPS: 55.1369778,-7.461263 designed to celebrate Inishowen’s unique Early Medieval landscapes. Using Directions: Route 1: Amazing Grace traditional methods, several groups have Park: Adjacent to Tourist Office rear explored Inishowen’s archaeological car park. landscapes at Carrickabraghy on Doagh Route 2: Amazing Grace Viewing Point: Island, Straid, Carrowmore, Cloncha, From the beginning of the Shore Path, Desertegney and Moville. walk for approx 1km northward. In addition, work on early kingship and assembly sites is shedding new light The hymn is loved all over the world. on enclosures at Grianán of Aileach and The remarkable story of ‘Amazing Grace’ Elagh Mor. In 2012, The Bernician Studies began when a foul-mouthed sailor; John Group brought its geophysical remote- Newton, was caught in a violent storm on sensing equipment from Sunderland the Atlantic Ocean on March 10th 1748. University. Stranded at sea and close to death, the Using the Fluxgate gradiometer (which wind finally changed direction on 8th April detects minute fluctuations in magnetic and his ship found safe haven in Lough particles in the soil, often showing Swilly. Saved from death, where the ground has been disturbed stepped ashore in Inishowen a changed – by the boundaries of monasteries, man; believing that God’s grace could the foundations of buildings or by save even a ‘wretch’ like him. In England, burials and can produce startlingly Newtown was appointed as the captain detailed maps of ancient landscapes), of a slave ship. But as his faith grew, he at Carrowmore, Cloncha and Cooley. became unhappy with his profession. He They established early monastic sites. left his slave ship to join the clergy in 1764. Trial excavations at Carrowmore in 2013 As a curate John Newton wrote the words proved that the sites had been occupied to the hymn ‘Amazing Grace’ to illustrate from as early as the 6th century. More his New Year’s Day sermon in 1773. When offered his own church in London, recently a very complex cemetery has Newton became an influential preacher, a been recorded at Cooley, revealing a prolific hymn writer and played a vital role group of early Christian memorial stones as mentor to William Wilberforce in the of international importance. historic battle against slavery. Malin Head

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05 Isle of Doagh Malin Ballyliffin Culdaff Lough Swilly Clonmany 09 12 11 07 04 06 Inishowen Head Hills Carndonagh 10 Leenan Bay Stroove

Greencastle 14 Lough Foyle Fort Drumfries Moville 17 Redcastle 13 16

Ned’s 03 Lough Foyle Point Buncrana

Fahan 15 02 Muff

Inch Burnfoot

Burt 01 INISHOWEN Newtowncunningham Derry HERITAGE TRAIL HERITAGEwww.govisitinishowen.com TRAIL

Explore Inishowen CLG Inishowen Tourist Office Railway Road, Buncrana, Inishowen, .

+353 (0)74 93 63451 [email protected]