Luxury, as it could be
A FRESH PERSPECTIVE Introduction
180’s ambition is to see the world as it could be, fueled by the belief that there’s nothing more powerful than a fresh perspective.
This is particularly true of the luxury industry where traditional brand models are breaking as cultural relevance and speed to lead take more prominence.
INTRO This is why we’re introducing 180 LUXE, a new luxury 02 offering from the 180 global ecosystem whose focus is to elevate luxury and premium brands across culture.
This report explores luxury through the framework of the world as it could be, gathering a range of fresh perspectives from experts around the world to take a closer look at the influence luxury and premium brands are having in culture.
This moment is one of radical collaboration and generosity. It is this attitude that will help us move towards a better future, faster. Introducing 180 LUXE and our perspective on luxury.
A luxury legacy is about giving more The Maîtres Horlogers in Switzerland, than we’ve received in our lifetime. spending more than a lifetime to reinvent their skills, Kyoto’s Nishijin-ori artisans’ This is a promise now embraced by wider know-how, often seen on catwalks, communities, both challenging a certain or the tanneurs of Hermès are all part status quo but also embodying the new of the same family of craftspeople. values and commitments of luxury brands. From the way raw materials are sourced, Luxury brands are investing in their people to the way products are ethically made and are even resurrecting trades that There are moral aspirations in luxury and the representation of the égéries, had once disappeared. But we are also that go far beyond the immediate luxury brands constantly re-enchant the way creating for luxury brands the next INTRO their products are both dreamt and crafted. generation of digital craftsmanship. pleasure of accessing a desired 03 It’s a subtle balance between what the brand Coding luxury platforms is nearing poetry; experience or possessing a time-piece. stands for for the next century and how a client digital content requires both the sublime will be proud to adopt and adhere to this vision. skills of theatrical design and the precision This is what we do at 180 LUXE, only reached through software. Augmented making brands’ content feel more There are moral aspirations in luxury that reality is already altering how a luxury go far beyond the immediate pleasure of brand will be understood and assimilated alive for its communities, for now accessing a desired experience or possessing within half a century from now. There is of course, but also for the future... a time-piece. This is what we do at 180 LUXE, indeed a chance that the first AR filter making brands’ content feel more alive for becomes a collectible, as precious as its communities, for now of course, but also a bag in a century from now. for the future, remembering that a luxury bracelet has more chances to know many In other words, Deus Ex Machina owners, while augmenting its value as it ages. has become a fact. And on our own Laurent Francois stage at 180 LUXE, we are here to Managing Partner, 180 LUXE Deep-diving into subcultures to forecast play the game. the next sweetspot to make people want a brand, finding long-lasting opportunities to dream, these are things we crave. The level of craftsmanship, shared from one generation to the next, has never Laurent Francois been as influential as it is now. Managing Partner, 180 LUXE Luxury
CONTENTS 04
05 17 26 30 PREMIUM CIRCULARITY A ‘PHYGITAL’ PLAYGROUND REPRESENTATIVE BEAUTY A WAY OF LIFE
By adopting circular behaviours The physical store becomes a In the ever evolving beauty space, For the Middle East and Gulf regions, and ingraining them in the business, playground for the consumer, luxury is about representation, luxury is a way of life. Consumers live luxury fashion businesses can extend a way to step into the brand’s about understanding that the luxury it, breathe it every day, and define the reach of the brand, attracting world that, up until that point, they’d beauty consumer does not sit within its evolution. For the region today, new customers without sacrificing only ever experienced through the one demographic but rather is luxury has become more about self- their premium positioning. phone screen in their hand. defined by shared behaviors. expression, and less about possession. Premium circularity Premium circularity PART 1 Premium circularity 05 Premium circularity Premium circularity The fashion industry produces 10% of all humanity’s carbon emissions and is the second-largest consumer Our perspective of the world’s water supply.
WORLD ECONOMIC FORUM 2020
PREMIUM 06 CIRCULARITY For luxury fashion houses, luxury is in the The secondhand brand’s attitude and behaviour as much as it is about the products it sells, particularly market is expected when it comes to sustainability. Customers to reach $65.8 are looking to luxury fashion houses to place sustainability at the heart of their business, billion by 2026. to wear their values on their sleeves, not just tell people about them. By adopting circular DELOITTE, GLOBAL POWERS behaviours and ingraining them in the business, OF LUXURY GOODS 2020 luxury fashion businesses can extend the reach of the brand, attracting new customers without sacrificing their premium positioning. The new value of luxury may be found
PREMIUM 07 CIRCULARITY in intrinsic quality and pleasure of experiences rather than in accumulation.
Vu-Quan Nguyen-Masse Brand & Culture Director, ASEAN, Vero The Expert
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
VU-QUAN NGUYEN-MASSE, BRAND & CULTURE DIRECTOR, ASEAN, VERO
Do you think the younger generations’ in Vietnam and the explosion of luxury Do you think luxury fashion brands attitudes towards circular fashion spending in automobiles, yachts, have a responsibility towards is shifting the luxury market? and whatnot also indicates that at the promoting circular fashion? Can secondhand fashion be defined opposite end of subculture crowds, Responsibility of brands, especially PREMIUM as luxury? new HNWIs [high net worth individuals] the corporate ones is not something 08 CIRCULARITY are also craving the basic status symbols In Vietnam and Thailand, the emerging I believe we can count on as citizens. offered by luxury industries. A glimmer markets have made contact with luxury The most thoughtful and relevant invest in it yet. The question is, why of hope comes from the tourism brands when those were less available sustainable actions have been taken won’t those retailers invest, while they industry in the region heavily relying on through direct retail and grey market by more or less independent brands were very happy buying affordable developing radical sustainable practices. offerings: secondhand, samples, like Veja or Patagonia which are not sustainable single-use denim? counterfeits, and hand-carried imports. looking to greenwash their project. Luxury fashion brands can only promote Scarcity of products made secondhand Taking a broader look Circular fashion is such a complex circular fashion by sheer vision, not a desirable way to access luxury brands. at the markets though, ecosystem. Saitex is looking to turn its interest. Setting up a business model Taking a broader look at the markets significant change in low-waste denim production operation, requires operational flexibility, which though, significant change in luxury luxury consumption supplying brands such as Everlane, a startup or a supplier such as Saitex consumption towards sustainability Madewell and J Crew into a circular may have. But larger corporations can’t be guaranteed. For instance, towards sustainability brand. However, it doesn’t seem that may find it difficult to adjust without the insatiable growth of real estate can’t be guaranteed. international brands have looked to challenging their structure heavily.
CONTINUED OVER... The Expert. Vu-Quan Nguyen-Masse.
Luxury in the region is tied Looking away from price, how it’s becoming harder for educated to other notions, spirituality would you define luxury fashion? younger generations to find the appeal And how do you think that definition in over-priced fashion. Go on Ssense over materiality, conform- has shifted both in the last few years and really find brands that have a story, ity over domination, and so and between generations? a message that you may want to spend more for, by ideal and by sense of the offering may look and There are two pillars of luxury in my belonging. How many do you find? feel drastically different from experience: craft and creativity PREMIUM (creativity as design, idealism and 09 CIRCULARITY what we are used to. Another note of importance is the cultural relevance). On one hand, cultural bias towards collective identity we have the traditional excellence of rather than individuality across the board Hermes or Cartier. On the other hand, in Asia. While in the West, it’s important we have the boundary pushers such as to control scarcity and uniqueness of Margiela, Comme des Garcons or Raf imagery in a vertical discourse, here Simons. And somewhere in between, desire would be driven by Facebook the clever cultural appropriation Groups like Vietnamese Indigo where manufactured by Louis Vuitton and Gucci. armies of the same ‘kids’ will show off their belonging to an aesthetic. In terms of shift, what I find concerning from an Asian standpoint is that besides Luxury in the region is tied to other status, brands are offering less and less notions, spirituality over materiality, cultural impact. It’s specifically critical conformity over domination, and so the in fashion. As it’s easier for crafty leather offering may look and feel drastically goods brands or watchmakers to justify different from what we are used to. the price of ‘quality and complexity’,
CONTINUED OVER... The Expert. Vu-Quan Nguyen-Masse. By raising the question of co-creation with Asian insiders, Asian makers, Asian businesses, we can accelerate discovery of what ‘post-materialism’ luxury means.
Does luxury have more relevance in a In Vietnam, the value of good food is cultural differences, if only to merely touch world that priorities longevity and resell? an indicator of how luxury can evolve. on how to adjust retail tactics and at best In a country known for being reluctant to adjust product development, although Here’s a chance for luxury to be at spending lavishly, extreme care for a sizes are still very much Westernized experienced as a more human and product can still elicit a sense of wonder and product creators are rarely Asian. benevolent industry. Again, it looks like and trigger consumption. Somehow By raising the question of co-creation Japan is where the best representation in that perspective, luxury is more with Asian insiders, Asian makers, Asian of sustainable luxury can be found. PREMIUM affordable, and less exclusive. businesses, we can accelerate discovery Traditional practices like Kintsugi, 10 CIRCULARITY of what ‘post-materialism’ luxury means. filling cracks with gold, concepts such The new value of luxury may be found as wabi-sabi, accepting imperfection, in intrinsic quality and pleasure of are pillars of long-lasting consumption. experiences rather than in accumulation. But it can only be matched by a cultural It’s just surprising that we’ve only just approach of business. In Japan, realized it. Most of what we’re discussing some businesses have been around is based on premises and the history for centuries, but have only grown of a Western-centric industry. In recent reasonably, often staying local. years, Western brands have invested This is not a practice that makes sense in conquering the huge markets in Asia, to the Western capitalist mindset yet. but have rarely questioned deeply the Circular fashion is a tool in a fashion
PREMIUM brand’s toolbox. It is one way to be more 11 CIRCULARITY sustainable and to attract new customers, but it is not the only way.
Nellie Cohen Founder of Baleen The Expert
Ventura, California
NELLIE COHEN, FOUNDER OF BALEEN
Do you think the younger generations’ fashion is actually the epitome of luxury attitudes towards circular fashion in the sense that luxury is supposed to To me, secondhand fashion is is shifting the luxury market? be handcrafted with the best materials. Can secondhand fashion be defined Theoretically these commitments actually the epitome of luxury as luxury? to quality result in the production of PREMIUM 12 CIRCULARITY in the sense that luxury is heirloom pieces that can be passed Yes, Gen Z’s style is largely based supposed to be handcrafted down from generation to generation. on uniqueness and circular fashion with the best materials. (aka secondhand), creating the Do you think luxury fashion brands opportunity to find vintage, rare and have a responsibility towards one-of-a-kind items. This preference promoting circular fashion? will encourage the luxury market to No, I think that circular fashion is participate in secondhand fashion a tool in a fashion brand’s toolbox. and produce new unique items in It is one way to be more sustainable collaboration with trending designers and to attract new customers, but it from diverse backgrounds that speak is not the only way. to the rejection by Gen Z of society’s traditional categorical stereotypes of
race and gender. To me, secondhand CONTINUED OVER... The Expert. Nellie Cohen.
Looking away from price, how What does luxury look like as would you define luxury fashion? people turn away from materialism? And how do you think that definition Does it have more relevance in a world has shifted both in the last few that prioritises longevity and resell? years and between generations? I think this looks like finding the best From my point of view, luxury fashion quality, vintage luxury pieces made of is richness in design, materials and incredibly high quality materials and production. Richness is the care and altering them. I think we’re going to see attention to the design of the product, a renaissance of tailors and garment the selection of the materials and the repair artisans that are going to help approach to production. When I was people take their grandmother’s luxury
PREMIUM growing up in the 80’s and 90’s, luxury pieces and put their own twist on them. 13 CIRCULARITY seemed to be about the ostentatious Luxury will be increasingly valuable in display of the logo. It was about the a world that embraces resale because Luxury will be increasingly valuable brand defining your status in a very of the quality. You cannot resell poorly in a world that embraces resale clear way, for example, the prevalence made things; they’re just not built for because of the quality. You cannot of stealing Mercedes hood ornaments. multiple owners. You can resell quality, resell poorly made things. Today, luxury still is about exclusivity, and if quality is synonymous with luxury but in a more subtle way. It’s about then it will be sought after. The piece finding the next cool thing that will change with each owner and the hasn’t been overblown and overhyped. patina will grow and develop into art. It’s in the tonal logos that obscure the branding. It’s in the collaborations with emerging designers. It’s about effortless coolness. Brands have to shift their entire practices
PREMIUM in order not only to ‘promote’, but to propose 14 CIRCULARITY new products based on the principles of the circular economy.
Lucas Delattre Professor of Communications, Institut Français de la Mode The Expert
Paris, France
LUCAS DELATTRE, PROFESSOR OF COMMUNICATIONS, INSTITUT FRANÇAIS DE LA MODE
Do you think the younger generations’ be defined as luxury, provided the Do you think luxury fashion brands Knowing that quality vintage attitudes towards circular fashion product is one, on top of quality under have a responsibility towards products like Hermès bags is shifting the luxury market? every aspect e.g. fabrics and materials, promoting circular fashion? Can second hand fashion be defined fabrication, details etc; two, acquires or luxury watches can be Promoting circular fashion is an PREMIUM as luxury? a certain ‘patina’ through the time more expensive than new absolute must for brands today, 15 CIRCULARITY and three, embodies a unique story, I am not sure this is a phenomenon but more importantly, brands have ones leads me to say that, for example as having been worn by which is related to younger generations’ to shift their entire practices in order somebody you love or having been worn yes, second hand fashion attitudes towards fashion consumption. not only to ‘promote’, but to propose under certain historical circumstances, can be defined as luxury I always remember how Hermès defines new products based on the principles from the Festival de Cannes to any the word ‘luxury’: “luxury is what can be of the circular economy. Recycling significant event you feel related to. repaired” (Jean-Louis Dumas as quoted is not enough, brands must also This will probably become European law by Guillaume de Seynes in front of IFM It is obvious that the growing importance think about prevention and reuse. in the coming months. LVMH is looking students every year). Knowing that of second hand luxury platforms like From 2021 on, fashion and textile very closely at new secondhand business quality vintage products like Hermès Vestiaire Collective or Net-A-Porter, companies in France will no longer models, while Berluti and Louis Vuitton bags or luxury watches can be more even Farfetch with its Second Life, be allowed to destroy their unsold already offer repair services. expensive than new ones leads me to points to the fact that secondhand fashion goods, according to the principle of say that, yes, secondhand fashion can can definitely be defined as luxury. ‘extended producer responsibility’. CONTINUED OVER... The Expert. Lucas Delattre.
Looking away from price, how would their business to display their convictions you define luxury fashion? And how and obsessions more freely; see Black do you think that definition has Lives Matter. In 2021, all brands are shifted both in the last few years asking themselves about their social role. and between generations? As mentioned by Business of Fashion: In the last few years, luxury has experienced “Gucci donated $500,000 to the 2018 March a notable shift from ownership and For Our Lives protest against gun violence. ostentation to new values around Proenza Schouler sells T-shirts featuring sustainability and social responsibility, an anti-gun graphic, donating proceeds to at least in Europe and in the US, probably gun safety organisations. Climate change also in big Chinese cities. Exceptional, is at the political forefront for brands like
PREMIUM durable and timeless goods are still Stella McCartney. Retailers like Gap Inc. 16 CIRCULARITY the core of the luxury business, but and Target double down on their support experiences, either physical or virtual, for LGBTQIA+ citizens with policies that and responsible values are more and encourage shoppers to use whichever more important. Luxury customers fitting rooms and restrooms correspond What does luxury look like as people Exceptional, durable care less for possession but more for with their gender identity”. turn away from materialism? Does it and timeless goods are memorable moments and for engagement have more relevance in a world that For the last two years, fashion has and commitment. Designers are making it prioritises longevity and resell? still the core of the luxury been showing its support for causes of business, but experiences, general interest: Balenciaga with World Luxury is still relevant, more than ever, Food Program, Vuitton with UNICEF, see the skyrocketing financial results either physical or virtual, Lacoste with IUCN (International Union of LVMH, Kering, Hermès and Chanel. and responsible values are for Conservation of Nature), Loewe with But a new definition of luxury is under more and more important. Elephant Crisis Fund, Gucci with March way: “creative, innovative, desirable For Our Lives, PVH with World Wildlife Fund but also responsible, committed, and Sézane with The Voice of Children. ‘slow’”, according to Barbara Coignet. A ‘phygital’ playground A ‘phygital’ playground PART 2 A ‘phygital’ playground 17 A ‘phygital’ playground A ‘phygital’ playground Only 23% of all luxury items sales in 2020 took place online, But online sales have almost doubled since 2019, when they Our perspective accounted for just 12% of all transactions.
CNBC 2020
A ‘PHYGITAL’ 18 PLAYGROUND When it comes to customer experience 62% of affluent that helps create meaningful memories with consumers, luxury as it could be is consumers world- about the blending of the physical and digital retail worlds. It’s about creating wide said they a ‘phygital’ experience that allows prefered making consumers to seamlessly move from the brand’s digital world to its physical one. purchases in store. The physical store becomes a playground LUXURY INSTITUTE 2020 for the consumer, a way to step into the brand’s world that, up until that point, they’d only ever experienced through the phone screen in their hand. We are connected all the time,
A ‘PHYGITAL’ 19 PLAYGROUND and so we tend to expect a seamless shopping experience both on and offline.
Noémie Balmat Fashion & Luxury Sustainable Innovation expert, CEO of Month Day Year The Expert
Paris, France Department stores could evolve into cultural spaces, getting closer to museums NOÉMIE BALMAT, FASHION & LUXURY SUSTAINABLE INNOVATION EXPERT, where digital, in the form of augmented reality CEO OF MONTH DAY YEAR for example, could enhance the experience.
What is the future of the luxury urban social interactions. There are so How do brands restore consumer retail store? Is it one stop shop many things to be done for more inclusive confidence in its physical spaces? or more of a lifestyle space? futures and to create better interactions The pandemic has definitely changed between people. For this, retail could be I don’t think the one size fits all can apply: the way some of us shop, yet as social an infinitely creative way to experiment. A ‘PHYGITAL’ you expect a different experience interactions have been limited in the past 20 PLAYGROUND depending on what you’re purchasing. Do you think digital is becoming year, I still believe the traditional physical Department stores could evolve into more essential to creating a more store has a future. Changes to restore cultural spaces, getting closer to seamless retail experience? consumer confidence in physical stores museums where digital, in the form are changes that I believe surpass this I think digital is and has been essential of augmented reality for example, space and spread throughout the whole to creating a seamless retail experience. could enhance the experience. collective social space. All kinds of public It has been for years even if retail Concept stores and flagships could places are implementing new sanitary has sometimes been late in adopting evolve into service-centered spaces, rules and safety measures to reassure technologies in general. For a very simple where the physical experience would visitors and customers that they can reason: we are connected all the time, and complete the digital one. safely visit these places again. I think this so we tend to expect a seamless shopping will also evolve through time, with hygiene I think there are many opportunities to experience both on and offline. The being handled with more care than before be explored in using retail as a space for pandemic has changed the way people the pandemic. I just hope we will be able social experiments, where brands could shop; even saying physical stores are to maintain some balance in doing so. unite their communities locally and invest dead would be wrong, because online and themselves in a collective reshaping of offline experiences are still very different. A ‘PHYGITAL’ Technology is the glue which unites 21 PLAYGROUND the physical with the digital.
Karinna Nobbs Co-CEO of THE DEMATERIALISED The Expert The Expert
London, United Kingdom
KARINNA NOBBS, CO-CEO OF THE DEMATERIALISED
The future of the luxury retail store The future of the For physical stores to stay relevant is a space which has multi-functions in a world that is increasingly moving and one which has tech integrated luxury retail store everything online, they need to look into the customer journey. It should is a space which has beautiful. They need to be dynamic in be a blend of culture, hospitality and their looks and their product offer but A ‘PHYGITAL’ multi-functions and 22 PLAYGROUND innovation. But these features have consistent in their service. to be authentic to the brand identity one which has tech Brands need to give consumers a and values. There should be fewer integrated into the reason to visit the store through design, but better stores. customer journey. through experiences with the brand Digital can definitely function to serve with education about its history or the the right product to the right person creative inspiration of the products. at the right moment. It can facilitate For me, technology is the glue which Where possible they should experiment hyper personalisation of experiences unites the physical with the digital. with functional innovation in terms and products, it can assist with I think specifically that blockchain, of consumer technology and hedonic storytelling and provenance and it augmented reality and machine innovation with sensory stimulation can support longer term relationships. learning will be critical to this. through extended reality experiences. Whether the final sale is online or offline
A ‘PHYGITAL’ 23 PLAYGROUND does not matter, what matters is that the customer believes in the brand.
Kai von Ahlefeld Fashion Designer & Co-Founder, uberraum The Expert
Perth, Australia / Paris, France
KAI VON AHLEFELD, FASHION DESIGNER & CO-FOUNDER, UBERRAUM
The physical shop will What is the future of the luxury the physical and the online presence of experience came about. In our work become more of a place retail store? Is it one stop shop brands. Whether it is a 3D web experience for brands we see it less as digital or more of a lifestyle space? or an interactive installation in stores, than information technology. And the for brand experience. for us it is always important to create not information is the important part, the The physical shop will become more of a only a customised, but also a meaningful digital is just a tool. So, for every in-store A ‘PHYGITAL’ Direct sales will be less place for brand experience. Direct sales 24 PLAYGROUND experience for the brand and the clients. experience we work on, we focus on how important than showcasing will be less important than showcasing we can get the client more information the products for future the products for future online purchases. How can digital enhance the about a specific product in a playful way. online purchases. I would not be surprised if stores customer’s retail experience? transform their storage space into an A big part of our world has become CONTINUED OVER... experience space and, if you buy in a digital! So, a lot of the lifestyle physical store the merchandise will be experiences mentioned above will rely delivered through the same distribution heavily on digital components especially system as an online purchase. In the long since there will be a need to link to the term, it will not make sense to maintain online sales system. two different distribution systems. Inner city spaces will be too precious But I think it is important to remember for retail stock! Brand experience will that the experience needs in-store are be the main focus and it will definitely physical and should appear as such be lifestyle orientated for the luxury to the customer. To the customer the industry. Currently, we are receiving more experience has to feel natural and they and more requests to combine the two, should not even reflect on how the The Expert. Kai von Ahlefeld.
How can physical stores stay relevant to them as soon as they can, exactly in a world that is increasingly moving because they have more confidence everything online, particularly in in them. The big question is, can we light of the ongoing pandemic? profit from this reboot of physical How do brands restore consumer shopping to create a better solution confidence in its physical spaces? for both the brands and the customer?
For most products there is still a need for a real world experience with a product. For most products there is A perfume needs to be smelled, a cream to be felt, a speaker to be heard etc. still a need for a real world People don’t trust online descriptions experience with a product.
A ‘PHYGITAL’ and would like to see the product for A perfume needs to be 25 PLAYGROUND themselves before ordering. Consumer smelled, a cream to be felt, confidence does not have to be restored for physical spaces. Consumers will flock a speaker to be heard etc.
I think it is actually a huge chance to focus more on the brand experience. Brands need to consider their stores more as entertainment spaces in which the customers are transported into a brand universe that they can then identify with. Whether the final sale is online or offline does not matter, what matters is that the customer believes in the brand. Representative beauty Representative beauty PART 3 Representative beauty 26 Representative beauty Representative beauty 65% of consumers say that it’s important that the companies they buy from actively promote diversity and inclusion Our perspective in their own business or society as a whole.
GLOBAL MONITOR 2021
REPRESENTATIVE 27 BEAUTY In the ever evolving beauty space, 62% of people luxury is about representation, about understanding that the luxury said that a brand’s beauty consumer does not sit within one demographic but rather is defined diversity, or lack by shared behaviors. If you can’t see it, of it, impacts their you can’t be it and, for the beauty sector, if you can’t see it, you won’t buy it. perception of their From the shades of foundation to products or services. the faces on Instagram, how a beauty brand presents itself to the world has ADOBE 2020 never been more vital to its success. The world as it could be sees luxury beauty brands recognising the influence they have to shift the needle. My personal point of view is that it is a duty for Luxe to speak to everyone and a
REPRESENTATIVE 28 BEAUTY duty for Luxe to showcase the diversity of representation that is at the heart of what makes us appreciate the sensitive world of luxury.
Nathie Nakarat Director of People Development, Learning & Animation HR France, L’Oréal The Expert
Global
NATHIE NAKARAT, DIRECTOR OF PEOPLE DEVELOPMENT, LEARNING & ANIMATION HR FRANCE, L’ORÉAL
“To me luxury is an attitude. It is respect “My personal point of view is that it is a towards a savoir-faire, a heritage that duty for Luxe to speak to everyone and Luxury is also inspirational comes together to create an experience. a duty for Luxe to showcase the diversity It asks us to react to luxury goods with of representation that is at the heart of for everyone. Craftsmanship, our senses, which is one of the most what makes us appreciate the sensitive REPRESENTATIVE 29 BEAUTY beauty and excellence are common human aspects that gathers world of luxury. Beyond the social role definitely for everyone to be us all. Luxury is an inner experience so model that inspiration can create, it is a a better version of oneself. intimate that you need to have multiple duty. The future of beauty brands is that representations of it to hope to gather an they are role models for what the world inch of what it creates for each individual. should be: respectful of human people, and of the planet. Whether you’re fat or thin, black or white, educated or not, luxury addresses Beauty brands in the future should reach anyone who can and will experience the highest level of excellence in terms it. Showing diverse people shows that of efficacy, safety and beauty at the [luxury] addresses everyone. Luxury same time as they reach an economy is also inspirational for everyone. of means with sustainably sourced Craftsmanship, beauty and excellence ingredients and packaging that is kind to are definitely for everyone to be a better the planet. I feel personally lucky to work version of oneself.“ in a company that shares this sustainable ambition for their brands backed up by strong measurable commitments.” A way of life
PART 4 A way of life 30 A way of life A way of life In the Middle East and Africa, especially in GCC countries, 70% of consumers claim to have increased their spending Our perspective over luxury goods.
MORDOR INTELLIGENCE 2021
A WAY OF LIFE 31 For the Middle East and Gulf regions, The luxury sector appeals luxury is a way of life. For locals, it’s about the places you go, the accessories you to a global consumer; wear and the car you drive. For expats, 20 to 30% of industry it’s the experience that matters and revenues are generated for many, they are able to experience luxury without actually having to pay by consumers making for it. But what does the future look luxury purchases outside like for luxury brands in this region? With a new generation of consumers their home countries. ready to spend, how can brands MCKINSEY 2020 ensure they stay relevant? As people become more open-minded to what luxury actually means, A WAY OF LIFE brands need to push the boundaries 32 of their experiences and be vocal in the ever-changing landscape of luxury.
Rifaat Fakih Strategic Planner, TBWA\RAAD The Expert
Dubai, United Arab Emirates
RIFAAT FAKIH, STRATEGIC PLANNER, TBWA\RAAD
People in the MENA What are the emerging behaviours When luxury is a way of life, defining the next chapter of luxury how can brands stay relevant? region are looking for brand success in this region? Luxury is a way of life in our region. products that reflect Luxury today has become more Consumers live it, breathe it every day, A WAY OF LIFE their beliefs and style, about self-expression, and less about and define its evolution. As people 33 possession. People in the MENA region become more open-minded to while also holding are looking for products that reflect what luxury actually means, brands a certain amount their beliefs and style, while also holding need to push the boundaries of their a certain amount of social currency. experiences and be vocal in the of social currency. With that comes a shift towards more ever-changing landscape of luxury. customization that sets brands apart The Giving Movement is a brand that from classic high-end retail, and stands out here. They produce street Golden Goose is a great example of that. and active wear in the UAE, made The brand offers customers the ability out of sustainable bamboo material, to customize their shoes to the tiniest pulling on the heartstrings of the of details, providing them with high-end new generation who have made it fashion, the way they want. their mission to protect the planet.
CONTINUED OVER... The Expert. Rifaat Fakih.
How can brands appeal to the next What are the biggest changes you’ve generation of luxury consumers? seen happening in the luxury space? And what are your predictions for this Gen Z are into a new kind of luxury. space for the year ahead? Much in line with the emerging trends, this next generation is looking for The luxury space is becoming more authentic self-reflection that gives them authentic and focused on the experience value on social media. This is reflected of the consumer, whether it’s online or in through hypebeast culture, where the real world. Consumers don’t want to consumers are committed to getting the feel intimidated, and brands are adapting latest and coolest products or those that to that. The luxury retail shopping are ‘hyped’. There are several streetwear experience is becoming friendlier and brands in the region that are leveraging less stuck up than it used to be, allowing A WAY OF LIFE 34 this culture, such as Off-White and Yeezy, for more human interactions at the which are sold out in minutes with store store. Sustainability is also on the rise, The luxury retail shopping experience queues lining up through entire malls. from product material to packaging, brands realize the importance of being is becoming friendlier and less stuck eco-friendly. In addition to that, local up than it used to be, allowing for designers are in the spotlight like never more human interactions at the store. before. Online luxury e-commerce site Ounass showcases this trend by highlighting up and coming local luxury designers on their site, while also staying committed to being as sustainable as possible. As lockdowns ease and people start spending more time out of home, they will look for more human experiences in luxury retail and support the brands that value their beliefs. The Experts.
NOÉMIE BALMAT VU-QUAN NGUYEN-MASSE NELLIE COHEN LUCAS DELATTRE FASHION & LUXURY SUSTAINABLE BRAND & CULTURE DIRECTOR, FOUNDER OF BALEEN PROFESSOR OF COMMUNICATIONS, INNOVATION EXPERT, CEO OF ASEAN, VERO INSTITUT FRANÇAIS DE LA MODE MONTH DAY YEAR
Noémie Balmat is a fashion and A creative strategist based in Asia since Nellie Cohen is the founder of Baleen, Lucas Delattre is in charge of teaching THE EXPERTS 35 luxury sustainable innovation expert 2013, VQ has worked within and around a consultancy dedicated to helping communications, media and digital at IFM, and is the Founder and CEO of luxury & creative industries, observing brands and the planet symbiotically and is a graduate of the Ecole Normale Month Day Year, an interdisciplinary alternative paradigms emerging in benefit. Previously she spent nearly Supérieure (rue Ulm, class of 1985, and independent collective using lesser known and new markets of a decade at Patagonia where she arts/history), and also has a Media and sustainable innovation to influence interest. VQ has formerly been quoted built Worn Wear. Nellie holds a BA Communication Masters from ESCP Europe the inside of creative industries to in Monocle as Head of Strategy at Rice in Environmental Systems from UC (1989). He worked as a foreign correspondent inspire change beyond. She is an Creative, a boutique branding & design San Diego and a MS from Scripps and journalist in Germany from 1989 to 1997 accomplished speaker and lecturer practice who’s worked for Samsung Institution of Oceanography. (Le Monde) and then on the foreign desk and has been on the advisory jury GIC, Mobifone and Uber. He’s also at Le Monde in Paris from 1997 to 2001. He board at SXSW since 2016. She is a been quoted in Business of Fashion Ventura, California was deputy editor of Monde des Débats trilingual entrepreneur, a creative as a former consultant for Japanese (2001). He was head of the Paris office of strategist and producer and writer. designers at Showroom NU (Nire Ups the Conseil de l’Europe from 2002 to 2005. Inc, based in Tokyo and distribution Between 2006 and 2015, he was in charge platform for Comme des Garcons, Issey of communications for IFM. He has written Paris, France Miyake, Undercover). Currently focusing Une envie de politique, entretiens avec Dany on creative company governance, VQ is Cohn-Bendit et Guy Herzlich (La Découverte, Brand & Culture Director at ASEAN based 1998), and Fritz Kolbe, A Spy at the Heart of PR agency Vero (Thailand, Myanmar, the Third Reich (Grove Atlantic, 2004). Vietnam, Indonesia & The Philippines).
Paris, France Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam The Experts.
NATHIE NAKARAT KARINNA NOBBS KAI VON AHLEFELD RIFAAT FAKIH NATHIE NAKARAT, DIRECTOR OF CO-CEO OF THE DEMATERIALISED FASHION DESIGNER & STRATEGIC PLANNER, TBWA\RAAD PEOPLE DEVELOPMENT, LEARNING CO-FOUNDER, UBERRAUM & ANIMATION HR FRANCE, L’ORÉAL
Nathie is a certified coach and Karinna Nobbs is an Educator, Nowist Born in Germany, Kai graduated from An avid storyteller, Rifaat started THE EXPERTS 36 helps support the HR French and Connector. She is a published Parsons School of Design (BFA, Fashion his career at TBWA\RAAD as a population in their development author, previously consulting and Design) in 1993, where he attended the community manager. He then moved having been the Digital Global lecturing globally on retail innovation Paris and New York campus. He started to Planning and began developing Director for international and the digitalisation of the fashion his career as assistant designer to the brand strategies for the likes of professional brands for many industry. In 2020 she co-founded late Sonia Rykiel, and moved on to design Apple, KFC, Louvre Abu Dhabi, and years. She is passionate about THE DEMATERIALISED with Marjorie collections for Lanvin for Ocimar Versolato, Under Armour. When he’s not in the the arts, social innovation and Hernandez, a Web3 marketplace for before opening the creative agency, office planning, Rifaat is dissecting ensuring that people are at the digital fashion NFTs powered by the uberraum, together with Maria Spahn. Kai Stanley Kubrick movies or collecting heart of how businesses operate. LUKSO blockchain. von Ahlefeld and Maria Spahn have brought limited edition vinyls. the agency to international acclaim for their show designs, concepts, immersive Global London, United Kingdom Dubai, United Arab Emirates installations and film work for the fashion and luxury industry. He has designed and created visual content for companies such as Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Dom Perignon, Moët, Diane von Fürstenberg, Alexander Wang, Roadrte, Lacoste, Tiffany’s and many others. Kai is currently stuck in Perth Australia, but can’t wait for the day that Australian borders open up again so he can travel back to Europe.
Perth, Australia / Paris, France Contact 180 Luxe: LAURENT FRANCOIS Managing Partner [email protected]
PIERRE HUMEAU Managing Partner [email protected]
IZZY ASHTON Brand Communications Manager [email protected]