Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. September 2018 Volume XXII, Number 1

Save these future CHoW Meeting Dates: The Swiss Contribution

September 9 to Culinary History October 14 November 11 Speaker: Martin Dahinden December 9 Swiss Ambassador to the United States January 13, 2019 February 10, 2019 Sunday, September 9 March 10, 2019 2:00 to 4:00 p.m. April 14, 2019 Bethesda-Chevy Chase Services Center May 5, 2019 4805 Edgemoor Lane, Bethesda, MD 20814 Welcome back to CHoW! witzerland is known for , chocolate, and Martin Dahinden became Hope you had muesli. But did you know that some of the most the Swiss Ambassador to the a nice summer. Soutstanding contributions to culinary history were United States in 2014. He was made by the Swiss? Swiss is rich in anecdotes previously Head of the Swiss which connect the country’s history with its culinary Agency for Development and Renew Your achievements. Cooperation (DEZA). As a Membership in Ambassador Martin Dahinden went in search of diplomat he has worked in stories and anecdotes about dishes, chefs, bakers, and Geneva, Paris, Lagos, New CHoW NOW gastronomes. He came upon the story of the most York, Brussels and Bern. for 2018-19! important of the Renaissance, the first woman Martin Dahinden was born who ever wrote a cookbook, the tragic fate of a man in , , in The membership year who arranged splendid banquets for the Sun King, and 1955. He earned a Ph.D. in runs from September 1 pioneers of the hotel business and of industrial Economics (Business Admin- to August 31. Annual production. He found out about Napoleon’s chef, the istration) from the University dues are $35 for founders of the legendary Delmonico’s Restaurant in of Zurich. Before joining the individuals, households, New York, a revolutionary who wrote a monumental diplomatic service, he worked or organizations. Dues culinary dictionary and began to organize his col- as a postgraduate assistant at include e-mail delivery of leagues into groups throughout the world. the university, and was then employed by a bank and a the newsletter CHoW Line. He found out how Swiss confectioners and choco- late producers made a name for themselves publishing house. abroad, and discovered a resourceful “I like to bake Dues are $50 for members mind who invented the ice cream cone. and to spend who also wish to receive a In Washington, he met a Swiss Executive time making pies,” mailed, paper copy of the Chef who worked for five American presi- said Ambassador newsletter. dents in the White House. The result of his Dahinden, a culinary research is the book Beyond Muesli and connoisseur. I do not Other Benefits: Fondue. The Swiss Contribution to Culi- mind investing time • Priority registration for nary History. It was translated into English in studying recipes field trips from Ambassador Dahinden’s 2016 book, and running after • GoogleGroups notices Schweizer Küchengeheimnisse: Gesichter rare ingredients.” • Membership roster und Geschichten hinter bekannten Gerich- ten (Swiss Culinary Secrets: The Faces and Stories behind Well-Known Dishes).

Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. (CHoW/DC) www.chowdc.org founded in 1996, is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit, educational organization dedicated to the study of the history of foodstuffs, , and culi- nary customs, both historical and contemporary, from all parts of the world. Donations are tax deductible to the full extent of the law. What Happened at the May 6 CHoW Meeting?

Past President Bruce Reynolds called the meeting to order at 2:16 p.m. Twenty CHoW members and two guests were CHoW Programs 2018-2019 present.

ANNOUNCEMENTS: September 9 Ambassador Martin Dahinden, “The Swiss Contribution to Culinary History” 1. Bruce explained why the meeting was taking place in McLean instead of Bethesda. He spoke briefly about the October 14 Ivanova Decán-Gambús. “Venezuela at the difficulties CHoW was having reserving the Bethesda Table. Approaches to Its Food Culture from the Late 1800s space for the 2018 - 2019 year. He asked members for ideas to the Present.” for a Plan B meeting place in the event the Bethesda location becomes unavailable in the future. November 11 Joan Nathan, King Solomon’s Table: A Culinary Exploration of Jewish from Around the World 2. Bruce also explained why Board elections were not hap- pening in the usual manner. He noted that all the current December 9 Daniel Stone, “The Food Explorer: The Board Officers and Directors have agreed to continue for True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who another year. He asked for a vote to approve the existing Transformed What America Eats” slate of Board Officers and Directors to continue for one year. The vote was approved with no dissention. January 13, 2019 Susan Sullivan Lagon, “Thomas Jefferson, the Foodie Founding Father” 3. Francine Berkowitz, Treasurer, reminded everyone that CHoW membership dues are due for the 2018 -2019 year February 10, 2019 Shirley Cherkasky, “Midwestern Maple and have been increased to $35, with an additional $15 for Syrup and Wild ” anyone wishing to have a paper copy of the newsletter mailed to them. March 10, 2019 Mark Herlong, “Legislating through the Stomach: How John Chamberlin Helped Shape the Gilded WHATZITS: Age in Washington”

Judy Newton brought a wand. April 14, 2018 Cooperative Supper, Alexandria House

PROGRAM: May 5, 2018 Luke Barr, “Ritz and Escoffier”

CiCi Williamson introduced this month’s speaker, Sandra Gutierrez from Cary, North Carolina, who presented “The New Southern Latino Table.” See a summary of her talk on How to Post to the CHoW Google Group page 6. The CHoW-DC Google Group is for communicating REFRESHMENTS: culinary history matters ONLY. It is not intended to be an open forum. Francine Berkowitz – Chocolate Babka Claudia Kousoulas – Korean Bakery Florentines You must be a member of CHoW, and your email ad- Jane Olmsted – Carrot Cake Cookies dress must be in the CHoW database. Clara Raju – Guava Layer Cake with Cream Frost- ing (a recipe from Sandra’s book) It’s important to remember that if you change your email Amy Riolo – Mexican Almond Orange Cookies address, you need to inform the CHoW Membership CiCi Williamson - Corn and Black Bean Salad Director so that it can be updated and you will continue to receive messages and newsletters. DOOR PRIZES: The easiest way to post a message to the Group is simply Thank you to Claudia Kousoulas for donating the cook- through an email. Here’s how. books for this month’s door prizes. • Open a new email • In the address line or “To” box, enter The meeting was adjourned at 3:35 p.m. [email protected] • Enter a subject in the subject box Respectfully submitted, • Enter the text of your message Pam Simon, Director o NOTE: If you are announcing an event, please make sure you include all relevant information, plus a website or phone number for additional information. • Please sign your message as a courtesy to everyone. • Add your email address for replies. • Send the message! DONE!

2 CHoW Line News of Our Members

Claudia Kousoulas will be speaking to the Culinary Historians of on September 11. Her talk,”Making IN MEMORY Value Visible,” is based on her new book, Bread & Beauty, Jane Ramsey Olmsted A Year in Montgomery County’s Agricultural Reserve. The 1930-2018 book explores historical foodways around the C&O Canal and the County’s freed slave and Quaker communities. Long-time CHoW member and This 300-page, hard cover, full color tome features more former Board member Jane Olmsted than 120 recipes using local produce, along with profiles of passed away on July 14. She was a vi- farmers (they’re not who you think they are!) and essays brant, generous, adventurous woman about challenges to farming—from building soil health to with a great sense of humor. Always finding the right market. hospitable and engaged, Jane was at The Reserve was established in the 1980s and sets aside CHoW’s last meeting in May, bring- 93,000 acres, one-third of the County, for agricultural uses. ing cookies to share. Often she would Since then it has supported diverse local jobs, clean air and bring her Southern pimiento cheese water, outdoor recreation, and delicious local food. It has spread. She told CiCi, “Southerners also created a space for history—from Montevideo (built by don’t put big chunks of pimiento in Jane at her favorite the great-granddaughter of Martha Custis Washington) to their cheese. They blend the mixture Sugarland, a community founded by freed slaves. restaurant, The Inn at in a food processor so there are only Little Washington, taken You can get a glimpse of the book on the website: little specks of pimiento in it.” www.breadandbeauty.org/ this spring. Photo: Sallie The daughter of a U.S. Navy Admi- Olmsted MacKinnon ral, Jane grew up in China and on U.S. Pat Zickler and Pamela Simon gave a bacon-making dem- Navy bases during the childhood of her 87 years. She was a onstration July 29 at the Olney Farmers and Artists Market graduate of Sweet Briar College in and a talented and also introduced the audience to CHoW’s history and and collected watercolorist who studied painting at Ameri- programs. Judith Newton wrote a blog post that included can University and Corcoran School of Art. Before retir- coverage of the demo: ing, Jane was the assistant manager of the Sulgrave Club http://olneyfarmersmarket.tumblr.com/ in D.C., where she meticulously coordinated hundreds of post/176606994129/lisianthus-bacon-and-bug-eyed-mon- events, and was a restaurant reviewer for The Courier, an sters Arlington newspaper. She was a 50-year member of the Here’s the gist of the CHoW demo: Junior League of Washington, D.C., and an avid gardener Judy wrote, “Wafting through the Market was an aroma and award-winning floral arranger. A resident of Arlington that brought everyone right down to Earth. Bacon! How for more than 40 years, Jane was also a member of the Na- to cure your own was the topic of this week’s Chef Demo. tional Society of Colonial Dames. She traveled worldwide Patrick [Pat] Zickler, his wife Joyce, and daughter Emily, as but had a special passion for Italy. In her eighties, Jane well as Pamela Simon of the Culinary Historians of Wash- studied advanced Italian and regularly traveled to Italy, ington (CHoW), had brought a homemade smoker com- often accompanied by Evan Kleiman, cookbook author and plete with a slab of , which was slowly but surely host of NPR’s “Good Food.” In the March 2013 CHoW Line becoming a delicious piece of porky goodness. Meanwhile, she wrote about her trip to Sicily with her Italian language they had plenty of samples of the finished product to hand teacher and five others. “Why did I join this group? As a person who has been to Italy countless times and done it without aid of any kind, I thought it would be interesting to go with someone who was from there, who was enthu- siastic and, by now, who has become a friend.” Jane made friends wherever she went. We will miss her. —Dianne Hennessy King

From left: Pamela Simon, Joyce Zickler, Pat Zickler, and an interested Market patron. Photo: Judy Newton Pamela Simon with Pat’s blend; Olney Farmer’s Market, Photos: Judy Newton

CHoW Line 3 Upcoming Events

Enkutatash, on September 11, is the New Year celebra- Vietnamese Food Tour of Eden Center tion for Ethiopians. The holiday is in remembrance of the Attend a docent-led tour of markets and restaurants at Queen of Sheba returning from Jerusalem where she had Eden Center in Falls Church with Les Dames d’Escoffier. given gold to King Solomon around 980 BCE. When she re- Saturday, September 22, 10:30 a.m. turned home, she received the “Gift of Jewels,” enkutatash. to 3:00 p.m. Includes 7- seated The date also signifies the end of the rainy season. The luncheon with demos plus other tast- Washington, D.C. area is home to over 200,000 Ethiopians. ings. Non-members $55. Call your favorite Ethiopian restaurant to see if they have Details at www.lesdamesdc.org an Enkutatash . Last year there was a large celebration at the Washington Monument featuring music, , and speakers. Sicily’s World of Food and Culture October 9, 6:45 p.m. Smithsonian Rip- ley Center Fee: Members $45, Nonmembers $55 Food historian Francine Segan looks at how various cultures such as Greece, Rome, Arab and Byzantine, influenced Botanical Brews: A Tasting Experi- Sicilian food. She also discusses some ence in the National Herb Garden favorite places to visit throughout the September 15, 6:00 - 8:00 p.m. country. A dessert and reception National Herb Garden, National Arboretum/USDA follows the presentation. 3501 New York Avenue, NE, Washington, DC, 20002 https://smithsonianassociates.org/ticketing/tickets/sici- Fee: $40 per person ($32 FONA) lys-world-of-food-and-culture (Photo: Ellen Silverman)

For one night only, the National Herb Garden will trans- form into a brewtanical beer garden! Experts from all facets of the beer industry will converge to celebrate the Herb of the Year—Hops—and a myriad of botanical ingredi- ents that make one of the world’s most popular beverages possible! A must attend event for craft beer and garden aficionados alike. Attendees will enjoy a private tasting of local breweries’ custom creations, including limited edition small batches unavailable anywhere else! Heavy hors d’ oeuvres will be served alongside the brews. Come “drink in” the garden! Fee includes commemorative tasting glass. Sorry, no pets allowed. Event will be moved indoors in Smithsonian Food History Weekend case of rain. Must present picture ID with proof of age at November 1-3, hours and fees vary check-in. Mark your calendar for the fourth annual Smithsonian Food History Weekend at the National Museum of Ameri- Reston Muticultural Festival can History. Join culinary leaders, researchers, practi- Saturday, September 22, 11 a.m. - 6 p.m. tioners, and scholars in dynamic conversations, cooking Lake Anne Plaza demonstrations, and hands-on activities that will provoke 1609-A Washington Plaza, Reston, VA 20190 and inspire a broader understanding of the history of food Free in America and the role we all play in shaping the future of food. The Reston Multicultural Festival is a celebration of the Over the course of three days, Smithsonian Food His- diversity and community spirit that is found in Reston. tory Weekend will explore the history and changing dy- Family, friends and neighbors are treated to music, enter- namics of regional food cultures in the United States. How tainment, dress, food, and cultural treasures from all over have regional foodways expressed their place? Who and the world that are all right here locally. The Multicultural what shape regional identities? How are new ideas about Festival features a Naturalization Ceremony, National regions reviving, shaping, and reshaping food in America? Heritage Award Fellows, arts & crafts, entertainment, Art From a day of roundtable discussions and a day-long free Mirrors Culture 3D exhibit, delicious food, and family ac- festival to a black tie gala and an evening of beer history, tivities from around the world. there is truly something for everyone and every taste at this year’s weekend. www.restoncommunitycenter.com/attend-shows-events- exhibits/reston-multicultural-festival (See page 6 for description of the roundtable discussions.)

4 CHoW Line More Upcoming Events Blogs, TV, Journals Afternoon By Dianne Hennessy King The Mansion at Strathmore www.jamesbeard.org/blog/the-2018-james-beard-award- winners (part of the blog of the James Beard Foundation) 5301 Tuckerman Land North Bethesda, MD 20852 Among the awards given was The Best Chef in the Mid- Phone: 301-581-5100 Atlantic, earned by Jeremiah Langhorne of The Dabney in The soothing sounds of local Washington, D.C. musicians fill the room, as you enjoy Afternoon Tea in the cozy The Humanitarian of the Year Award was given to Wash- atmosphere of The Shapiro ington D.C. restaurateur José Andrés, formerly the chair of Music Room at Strathmore. the D.C. Central board. Andrés founded the non- Strathmore Blend Tea is special- profit World Central Kitchen (WCK) in 2010 that aims to ly made by Master Tea Blender change the world “through the eyes of a chef.” The teams John Harney of of chefs and other volunteers have worked in many locales and is served with a light from Haiti in Houston. Andrés and his WCK team sup- of delectable tea savories. plied magnificent efforts in Puerto Rico to provide food Afternoon Teas: $25 per person and to feed victims of the September 2017 Hurri- (Stars Price $21.60) cane Maria. As this issue of CHoW Line was being written, Specialty Teas: $29 per person the WCK team, plus Chefs for (and chef Guy (Stars Price $25.20) Fieri), were providing thousands of to evacuees and Tea begins at 1 p.m. emergency responders at the Carr Wildfire in northern Call 301-581-5108 for reservations. Pre-paid, non-refund- California. able reservations required. www.worldcentralkitchen.org Vegetarian options are available; please be sure to request a vegetarian meal when making your reservation. www.jamesbeard.org/blog/yall-werent-ready-for-me Tanya Holland, chef and owner of Brown Sugar Kitchen Below is a sample listing of some of the Specialty Teas that in Oakland CA, talks about her participation in the 2018 have a menu and musicians playing music to match the James Beard Foundation Awards. She describes the ob- specialty topic. Many of the teas are repeated twice in a stacles she faced to her success in the U.S. culinary world week with different musicians performing. For the com- after her 1992 Grande Diplôme from École de Cuisine La plete list of Regular and Specialty Afternoon Teas, go to Varenne. Of local interest, she is a www.strathmore.org/events-and-tickets/afternoon-tea graduate in Russian language and literature. Holland is the author of Brown Sugar Kitchen Cookbook and New Soul Tuesday, September 18 Cooking; was the host and expert on the televi- SPECIALTY TEA: Broadway Tea sion series Melting Pot; and competed on the fifteenth Mike Gold, piano season of Top Chef. www. tanyaholland.com Start spreading the news about our Broadway teas with special cuisine and memorable show tunes…a production www.pbs.org/food/shows/no-passport-required you won’t want to miss! A six-part television series hosted by Marcus Samuelson, No Passport Required takes viewers to six cities across the Tuesday, September 25: Chinese Tea U.S. “to explore and celebrate the wide-ranging diversity Saturday, September 29: Italian Tea of immigrant traditions and cuisines woven into American Tuesday, October 9: German Tea food and culture.” Detroit/Middle Eastern foods, New Tuesday, October 16: Chocolate Tea Orleans/Vietnamese, Chicago/Mexican, Queens, NYC, Wednesday, October 24: Scandinavian Tea /Indo-Guyanese, Miami/Haitian, Washington, D.C./ Ethiopian. Originally aired on Tuesday evenings, July 10 -August 14, the series is now available for streaming. Hill Center Cooking classes Hill Center at the Old Naval Hospital www.wired.com “Tomatomorrow” by Stephen S. Hall 921 Pennsylvania Avenue, SE appeared in Wired magazine, August 2018, pp. 52-63. “The Washington, DC 20003 Mutant Future of Food.” An article about gene editing in 202-549-4172 phone food, particularly tomatoes but applicable to many crops, http://www.hillcenterdc.org/event/urban-foraging-foray- that is being conducted at Cold Springs Harbor Labora- and-cooking-class-with-dr-bill-schindler-2/ tory on Long Island, New York. Gene-edited plants are not considered genetically modified (GMOs). In March Urban Foraging Foray and Cooking Class with Dr. Bill the USDA ruled that plants developed with gene-edited Schindler (a former CHoW presenter), Saturday, September mutations are “indistinguishable” from plants developed 29, 9:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m. $86 by traditional breeding, and therefore “do not require Join Bill Schindler on a foray of Capitol Hill to forage for regulatory oversight.” The tech journal, Wired, can usually food! Washington’s lawns, parks and alleys are full of good be found in libraries. things to eat, if you know how and where to look.

CHoW Line 5 More Upcoming Events May 6 CHoW Talk

Smithsonian Food History Weekend Roundtables “The New Southern Latino Table” Friday, November 2, 9:30 a.m.-4:00 p.m. Called “The Voice of South- Free ern Latin ,” Smithsonian National Museum of American History Sandra Gutierrez of Cary, North Constitution Ave between 12th and 14th Streets NW Carolina, is the author of four Washington, DC 20001 cookbooks and more than 1,000 published articles. Part of the fourth annual Smithsonian Food History Week- She spoke about the Latinx CiCi Williamson, Sandra Gutierrez end, the Roundtables will convene historians, writers, food Influence in our foodways. entrepreneurs, activists, and practitioners to discuss regional Latinx refers to 21 different countries and 21 different foodways in America. Join us as we explore strong, traditional cuisines, each one a result of global amalgamation. With foodways alongside emerging aspects of new regional cuisines. Latinx estimated to become the majority of Americans by Early registration is highly recommended. 2050, Sandra said this will be the largest ethnic shift in the country since World War II, changing what ingredients https://www.eventbrite.com/e/smithsonian-food-history- people will buy, and the recipes they seek. weekend-roundtables-tickets-48067850234 “Globalization is nothing new,” she said. “Food is al- ways evolving especially since 1492 when the world’s two 2018 ROUNDTABLES SCHEDULE hemispheres discovered the other’s ingredients and the Panel 1: The Power of Place world began to cook together.” “Why do regions matter?” With the enormous influx of Latinos in the South, a The evolving concept of region and how our understanding new branch of Southern foodways was born that Sandra of regions has shaped everything from our sense of self and discovered in 1996 and called “The New Southern-Latino community to the development of economic activity and Culinary Movement.” She said, “This is not a chef-driven agricultural landscapes. movement; rather it’s an organic movement that began in • Bill Cronon, Professor, Univ. of Wisconsin-Madison the homes of regular cooks—both Southern and Latinx.” • Ronni Lundy, Author Thus you have innovative recipes such as peach gazpa- • Sean Sherman, Chef cho, cajeta and bourbon bread pudding, peach and jalape- • Moderator: Corby Kummer, Writer and Editor no salsa, chicharrón (pork rind) , guava and cream cheese layer cake, Scuppernong chicken, Chilean-style Panel 2: Selling Regions fricassee and sweet tomato cobbler. “When does region become industry?” Sandra autographed copies of her book, The New South- How communities, food entrepreneurs, and tourism- ern Latino Table. related industries sell the concept of a region. Why is food such a compelling medium through which to brand a place, its people, and its way of life? Consequences of branding a Panel 4: Remixing the South region and how does it impact regional food cultures? What is the South? • Jessica Harris, Culinary Historian and Author In our second case study of the day, we will examine the • Amy Trubek, Professor, University of Vermont South from new perspectives to understand the power of • Jennifer Dueck, University of Manitoba place in America. What makes food “Southern” and who • Lucy Long, Director, Center for Food and Culture gets to decide? How are chefs and home cooks rethink- • Moderator: Ashley Rose Young, Historian, NMAH ing what it means to eat Southern food today? How is our • understanding of this regional evolving to include diverse Panel 3: Reclaiming the Pacific Northwest communities, cooking techniques, and culinary traditions? “What does it mean to reclaim a region?” Featuring: Through our first of two case studies, we will dive deep • Sandra Gutierrez, Cookbook Author into the history and culture of food in the Pacific Northwest • Michael Twitty, Culinary Historian and Food Writer in order to understand the importance of region in the U.S. • Matthew Raiford, CheFarmer How have abundant natural resources and diverse cultural • Sam Vong, Curator, NMAH communities shaped the Pacific Northwest’s food history? • Moderator: Joe Yonan, Food and Dining Editor for The How have people protected, claimed, exploited, and re- Washington Post claimed the region’s food traditions? What are the local and global issues and ideas that have motivated people across Please note that separate registration is required for the the region to chart a different course for the future of food? networking happy hour taking place at 4 p.m. That is a 21+ Featuring: event. • Eduardo Jordan, Chef • Gayle Goshie, Owner, Goschie Farms Lots of food demos and book signings on Saturday. • Elizabeth Woody, Creative Thinker and Maker http://americanhistory.si.edu/events/food-history-week- • Moderator: Rebekah Denn, Journalist end/festival

6 CHoW Line BOOK REVIEW T-Bone Whacks and Caviar Snacks, Cooking with Two Texans in Siberia and the Russian Far East By Sharon Hudgins North Texas Press 2018, cloth $39.95, 448 pages

By Claudia Kousoulas were limited—cinnamon When they returned in the 1990s and nearly impossible to find—and mostly 2000s, Hudgins and her husband ith this book, Sharon brought back from trips to Moldova, found a changed food landscape. Just Hudgins chronicles the Bulgaria, or Ukraine. But there was as Westerners learned more about rich social life that revolves caviar for , lunch, and din- Russia, Russians learned more about W the West, including supermarkets, around the table in a region of Rus- ner; 60 varieties of Siberian tomatoes; sia known for not much more than smoke-dried cherries; and sour cream ATMs, and international restaurants. frozen steppes and prison camps. But with 40% butterfat. Even with such With more ingredients available and in Russia, this region of Primorskii delicacies, Hudgins and her husband a new appreciation for a more com- Krai is known for its varied plants lost weight, traversing the city on foot plete Russian history, some cooks and animals. It is said that when God and by tram to find food, and then showcased regional ingredients like was creating the Earth, he overlooked carrying it up flights of stairs to their wild game, berries, and mushrooms, this corner, and so just shook out the small apartment. and some revived classic 19th century remnants in his bag, making for a rich Russian dishes “that might have been variety. considered to be ‘bourgeois’ during the Soviet period….” During their first stay, when she and her husband taught at universities The book’s recipes are an eclectic mix. in Irkutsk and Vladivostok, Hudgins Some are authentic, gathered from recalls scarce ingredients, polluted Russian friends and neighbors. Some, water, erratic electricity, and defective like Scottish gingerbread, are picked stoves. But she also found food and up on their travels and adapted to hospitality traditions that had been Russian ingredients. And others, like passed down in families and shared Tex-Mex charro beans, are tastes of with friends, evading Soviet erasure. home that they shared with sometimes skeptical Russian friends and col- Hudgins reveals the variety of leagues. foodways in the vast region. Just as Italy and have regional foods Hudgins has proven the truth of the based on produce and culture, so Primorskii Krai origin story. Her tales do Siberia and the Russian Far East. of foraging wild garlic and fiddlehead The traditions start with indigenous ferns, gathering pine nuts, picking hunters, enriched by the addition of native cherries, hunting game, and Asian Mongol flavors; dishes and “silent hunting” for mushrooms reveal ingredients brought to the region by Siberia’s and the Russian Far East’s Byzantine merchants; elegant, French- culinary treasures. inspired court foods; and the fasting dishes of the Orthodox church.

On that first, pre-glasnost stay, Hudgins isn’t interested in an inter- Hudgins describes shopping in national one-upmanship of domestic dilapidated markets and shops, the horror stories or kitchen comparisons. kind we’ve learned to expect from Her reporting is a revealing mix of television and movies, where eggs or research and experience. Throughout will be available one week but the book, Hudgins share the details of not the next. With unreliable markets, daily culinary life that only an expat Russians took on personal food pro- would note— sold from the duction and she found well-stocked trunks of cars, the small kvas trucks pantries of preserves and pickles. that trundled around the city selling Claudia Kousoulas is an editor, writer, During the 1980s, she writes, “private a glass at a time of fermented grain and educator whose topics include garden plots constituted 3% of the drink. She describes buying flour from architecture, urbanism, and culinary agricultural land of the Soviet Union the secretary of her university depart- but produced more than 25% of the ment and then sifting it to remove history. Her blog is country’s crops.” twigs, stones, and worse. appetiteforbooks.wordpress.com

CHoW Line 7 DIRECTIONS TO THE MEETING CHoW/DC usually meets on the second Sunday of each month, September through May, from 2:00-4:00 p.m. at the Bethesda-Chevy Chase Services Center, 4805 Edgemoor Lane, Bethesda, Maryland 20814.

DIRECTIONS: Bethesda-Chevy Chase Services Center is located at 4805 Edgemoor Lane in downtown Bethesda, Maryland, in the two-story County office building on the plaza level of the Metropolitan complex, above a County parking garage. The building is across the street from the Bethesda Metro station.

From the Metro Station, take the escalator from the bus bay to the plaza level, turn left, walk past the clock tower and across to the Metropolitan plaza using the pedestrian bridge. The Center’s street entrance at 4805 Edgemoor Lane (corner of Old Georgetown and Edgemoor) is marked with American and Montgomery County flags. Take the elevator to Level Two for meeting rooms.

If you are coming south on Old Georgetown Road (from the Beltway use exit 36) turn right on Woodmont Avenue - the entrance is the second driveway on the left.

If you are coming south on Wisconsin Avenue/Rockville Pike, turn right onto Woodmont Avenue, go south for approximately one mile, cross over Old Georgetown Road, and the parking garage entrance is the second driveway on your left.

Coming north on Wisconsin or west on Rt. 410, take Old Georgetown Road north, turn left at the second traffic light (Woodmont Ave.) and the garage entrance will be on your left. Take the elevators from the parking garage to the plaza level (P). The building is located at the center of the plaza. The American flag, Montgomery County flag, and the County seal mark the entrance to the building.

PARKING: Parking is free on weekends in the county parking garage. The entrance to the parking garage is marked with a large blue Bethesda Center parking sign.

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