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Behind the Scenes

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shared their stories, knowledge and enthusi- OUR READERS asm for and were unwaveringly hospi- Many thanks to the travellers who used the table despite such difficult times. And thanks last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, to Bing the loyal coonhound for keeping me useful advice and interesting anecdotes: company while I burned the midnight oil. Abby Gershenzon, Alen & Andrea Lai, Alexandra Bliss, Allan Smith, Annette Stamatiadis, Cengiz Kate Armstrong Aksu, Christian Ulrich, Collado Marimar, Dirk van I am constantly humbled by the generosity of Norren, Francisco Buny, George Moss, Jenn Hicks, the Greek people in tough times. Efharisto poli, Jonathan Amies, Jordi Bibià, Joy Morrison, Judi as always, to the Zotos family in Nafplion, to Yiannis at Alsos House for your knowledge and Moriarty, Judy Ridge, Katherine Pezet, Kathleen for sharing so much, to Alex Groth in Makrin- Doherty, Laura van Eerten, Linde Barrera, Liz itsa for welcoming me regardless of time and Killebrew, Lloyd Collyer, Matheus Ferreira, Mike distance, and to SB Barker for your Herculean Priaulx, Nadine Pilz, Pernille Sand, Rainer Feichter, friendship and driving skills. (I’ll never catch Robert Burkill, Sarah Heretz, Sien Hasker, Simon up on the Omega intake.) Finally, to Brana – Sy Lui you’re the best, as is the LP team and my fel-

low team of authors. AUTHOR THANKS Alexis Averbuck Korina Miller Boundless gratitude to Alexandra Stamopou- An enormous thank you to Kirk and my mum lou for her INSPIRATION. She travels with me and dad for minding the fort while I was away everywhere. Ryan Ver Berkmoes was a peachy and making it possible for me to take this pro- road companion and an aces navigator on ject on. Thank you to my fabulous daughters, unmarked Cretan tracks. Thanks to Ramona Monique and Simone, for letting me work and for an insider’s take on . Big cheer for also encouraging me to take breaks. Thank Korina, Kate and Richard, who contributed so you to Brana at LP for her support and to my much to the chapter. Applause for Bra- co-authors for their insights and cameraderie. na: conscientious, informed and compassion- A warm efharisto to all of the people I met on ate editor. Margarita, Kostas, Zisis, Anthy and the road – both locals and travellers – who Costas made Athens home. Efharisto poli to those who welcomed me so warmly around Anna Kaminski Crete, the Saronic Gulf and Athens. I would like to thank Brana for entrusting me with these chapters, my fellow scribes Carolyn Bain and everyone who enhanced my journey, Efharisto poli to Brana Vladisavljevic for a particularly my mum for sharing two weeks wonderful gig, and to Team Greece for ster- on the road with me and being such an able

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND ling work. Across the , hundreds of research assistant; Mina of Antares; Byron in kind, generous locals (and visitors) answered ; Maria and Panos in Dimitsana; my questions, engaged in conversation, fed George in Kalavryta; Nikos in Kardamyli; me (oh god, did they feed me!) and showed Alexis and Ryan on ; and Alexander in me the meaning of heartwarming Greek filox- . enia. Sincere thanks to all of them. Thanks to old friends Fiona and William Reeve for fun Greg Ward on , and to my favourite co-traveller, Thanks to the many wonderful people who Kelvin Adams, for three weeks of ace com- make travelling in the such a pany and dedicated research of beaches and pleasure, and thanks above all to my wife, blue domes. Sam Cook, for sharing the fun.

Michael Stamatios Clark Richard Waters Ευχαριστω to all who made my ferry-hopping Special thanks to Michael in and Leo- through the Greek islands a trip from the nidas at Pachis travel. Also to Lily Alicabiotis. start. Special thanks to my splendiferous There are many Greek people who made family, Janet, Melina and Alexandros, and to my journey easy at what were difficult times the editorial team of Brana Vladisavljevic and for them, so my thanks to all. Thanks too to Korina Miller for cheerful support through- Korina Miller and Alexis Averbuck, my coordi- out. In the islands, many thanks nating authors, for all their help and patience, to Chrysanthi, Amanda, Heather, Pakis, and to Brana Vladisavljevic, my destination Alexandra, Georgos and Mahi, Makis, Bessie, ed, for sending me out there. Gisela; in the Aegean, thanks to Anastasia, Theofilos, the Fouskas family, Demetra and Vassilis, Naya and Petros, and Tasos, Marga- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS rita and Kostas. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- Anita Isalska ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Thank you to every shepherd who mimed Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System driving directions, and every guesthouse Sciences, 11, 1633­44. owner who ushered me inside for tsipouro. Illustrations pp64–5, pp428–9 by Javier Big thanks especially to the team at Arta’s Martinez Zarracina. Illustration pp190–1 by Archaeological Museum and Central Mac- Michael Weldon. edonia’s tourism department, and Helen Cover photograph: Parthenon, Athens; Tarbet for translations and insights. Thanks Alamy/Art Kowalsky also to Richard Waters and Trent Holden for seasoned authorly advice. Bear hugs to Joe Revill, Jessica Crouch and Jane Atkin for cheering me on. Heartfelt thank yous to Nor- mal Matt, for more than I can list.

guidebook was produced by Assisting Editors Andrew THIS BOOK the following: This 12th edition of Lonely Bain, Pete Cruttenden, Melanie Dankel, Gabrielle Innes, Ali Planet’s Greece guidebook Destination Editor Lemer, Charlotte Orr, Susan was researched and written by Brana Vladisavljevic Korina Miller, Kate Armstrong, Paterson Product Editors Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain, Cartographer Mick Garrett Kate James, Kate Mathews Michael Stamatios Clark, Anita Cover Researcher Isalska, Anna Kaminski, Greg Senior Cartographer Naomi Parker Valentina Kremenchutskaya Ward and Richard Waters. This Thanks to Claire Murphy, Book Designer Cam Ashley Kirsten Rawlings, Dianne ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 741

Index

A (Crete) Ano Petali 405 Archaeological Museum Abdera 270 460-2, 460 Ano 330 (Komotini) 270 accommodation 20, 716-17, Agios Nikolaos (Zakynthos) Anogi 664 Archaeological Museum see also individual 668 Anogia 441-2 () 515 locations Agios Pavlos 444 Antia 612 Archaeological Museum Agios Stefanos 643 (Lefkada) 651 Achaïa 179-85 Antikythira 674, 670 133 air travel Archaeological Museum 350-1, 344 (Mandraki) 509 Acropolis 9, 63-9, 66, 8 airports 724 Antipaxi 649, 647 Archaeological Museum activities 45-8, see also to/from Greece 724-5 Apella Beach 495 () 334 individual activities within Greece 33, 728 Aphrodite 671 Archaeological Museum Adamas 398-9 alcohol 42-3, 362, see also Apiranthos 362 (Myrina) 592-3 Aegean, see northeastern wine Apollo Coast 122-5 Archaeological Museum Alexander the Great 681-3 Apollonas 363 (Nafplio) 138 Aegiali 372-3 Alexandroupoli 271-4 Apollonia 404-5 Archaeological Museum 296-300, 296 Alika 161 Arahova 196-7 (Parikia) 345 Aegina Town 297-9 Alinda 534-5 archaeological museums Archaeological Museum Agapi 325 Alogoporos 218 (Rethymno) 437 Ancient Mycenae Museum 544-5 622-7, 624 137 Archaeological Museum () 475-6 Agia Galini 444 Alopronia 392-3 Archaeological Agia Kyriaki 218 Ambelakia 206 Museum 320 Archaeological Museum () 561 Agia Marina () 532-3 Amfissa 196 Archaeological Museum Agia Marina () 313 252 (Agios Nikolaos) 461 Archaeological Museum (Samothraki) 599 Agia Paraskevi 313 369-74, 369 Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum Agia Pelagia 673-4 248 (Ancient Olympia) 177 (Sparta) 150 Agia Triada 431 390-1 Archaeological Museum (Arta) 290-1 Archaeological Museum 589 Anakasia 211 () 235 Agii Anargyri 313 Anavatos 573 Archaeological Museum (Astypalea) 522 Archaeological Museum Agion Oros 252-5 Ancient Agora (Athens) () 257 Archaeological Museum Agios Ahillios 262 75-7, 23 () 571 Archaeological Museum Agios Antonios 508 Ancient Corinth 132 () 206 Archaeological Museum 595-6 Ancient 340-2 () 381 Archaeological Museum of Amfissa 196 (Agathonisi) Ancient Delphi 10, Archaeological Museum 544-5 189-93, 10 () 261 Archaeological Museum of Argos 135 Agios Georgios (Crete) 469 Ancient Dion 256-7 Archaeological Museum Agios Germanos 262 Ancient Eleusis 127 (Fry) 497 Archaeological Museum of Eretria 609 Agios Gordios 645 Ancient Messini 167-9 Archaeological Museum Agios Ioannis 213-14 Ancient Mycenae 135-8 (Halkida) 608 Archaeological Museum of Messenia 165 Agios Kirykos 550-1 Ancient Nemea 133-4 Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum Ancient Olympia 17, 173-7, (Hania) 445 Agios Konstantinos 204-5 of Patras 180 176, 17 Archaeological Museum Agios Kyprianos 162 Archaeological Museum Andritsena 178-9 (Ikaria) 550 Agios Nikitas 653 of 259 Archaeological Museum Agios Nikolaos (Anafi) 391 Andros 317-21, 318 (Ioannina) 279 Archaeological Museum Angistri 300 of Pythagorio 565 Anilio 213 Archaeological Museum () 526 Archaeological Ano Mera 339 Museum 421-3, 433 Map Pages 000 Archaeological Museum Ano Meria 396 Archaeological Photo Pages 000 () 265 Ano Pedina 285 Museum 467 742 archaeological museums Sanctuary of the Great Avlaki 643 409 continued Gods 598-9, 563 Avlemonas 674 Shipwreck Beach 668-9 Marathon Archaeological 209 Sithonian Peninsula Museum 126-7 Palace 466 249-50 National Archaeological architecture 706-10 B 617 Barbati 643 Museum 84-6, 85 area codes 19 622 bargaining 21 INDEX INDEX Archaeological Areopoli 158-60 605 Museum 465 basketball 698 Argolis 134-45 Triopetra 444 Royal Tombs bathrooms 722 Argos 135 Vaï 466 Museum 259 Batsi 319 A-B Argostili 657-9, Voidokilia Beach 172  archaeological sites, see 658 beaches Aristi 285 Zaga Beach 169 also Roman sites, Agia Anna Beach 373  temples & sanctuaries, Aristotle 695 bears 712 Agios Nikolaos 461 tombs Arkadia 145-8 Benitses 644 Anafi 391 Acropolis (Athens) 9, Arki 543-4 bicycle travel, see cycling Andros 321 63-9, 66, 8 Armenistis 554-5 birdwatching 713-14 Apella Beach 495 Acropolis of Lindos 486 Armeos 527-9 Delta 274 Argostoli 657 Acropolis of Rhodes 481 Arta 289-91 Fanari wetlands 247 Agia Triada 433 Astypalea 523-4 Artemonas 405 Gialova Lagoon 171 Alyki 604 Demir Ali Beach 272 art galleries, see galleries Panagia Islet 603 Amphipolis 248 Eftalou Beach 586 arts 22, 701-5, see also Skala 586, 587 Egremni Beach 653 Ancient Agora (Athens) individual arts 506 75-7, Eristos Beach 507-8 23 Asklepieion 519 boat travel 31-3, see Ancient Agora (Thasos) Falasarna 452-3 Assos 661 also boat trips, cruising, 602 397 island-hopping Astakos 202 Ancient Akrotiri 388 Fourni islands 556-7 to/from Greece 725-8 Astris 603 Ancient Corinth 132 Halikia 457 within Greece 729 Astypalea 520-4, 521 Ancient Delos 340-2 490-1 boat trips Atatürk 238, 687 Ancient Delphi 10, 189- Hania 448 Alonnisos 625 93, Athens 10, 52, 56-122, 60, 10 Ikaria 551 Athos 254 Ancient Dion 256-7 68, 70, 80, 86, 88, 10 378 Corfu 639 Ancient Eleusis 127 accommodation 56, 95-9 Iraklia 364 Diafani 495 Ancient Ialysos 488 activities 91-2 Iraklio 423 Folegandros 395 Ancient Kamiros 488 cinemas 111 climate 56 Kambos Beach 539-40 Fry 497 Ancient Lato 464 Ithaki 663 courses 92 498 Ancient Messini 167-8 Kastellorizo 499 drinking & nightlife 105-8 Kavala 265 Ancient Mycenae 135-8 Mt Athos (Agion Oros) entertainment 109-11 (Tzia) 413 Ancient Nemea 133-4 254 festivals & events 91, 94-5 Kos 518 Ancient Olympia 17, Naoussa 348 food 56, 99-105 366 173-7, 176, 17 Platanias 219 gay & lesbian travellers Lipsi 543 Ancient Sparta 149-50 Preveza 288 109 Livadi Beach 523 Ancient Thira 388 Schinousa 365 highlights 57 Mandraki Beach 509 Asklepieion 519 Skiathos 615 history 58-62 401 209 Skopelos 619 itineraries 58 Mykonos 339 Epidavros 143-5 books 386, 676, 702-3 medical services 114 Myrina 593 Gortyna 435 history 681, 694 safety 114 Nafplio 139 Heraion 566 border crossings 725 shopping 111-13 Naoussa 348 Keramikos 83 Boukari 644 sights 62-91 360 15, 427-31, 707, bouzoukia 110 427, 15 tourist information 115 Neapoli Beach 584 budget 19 Malia 433 tours 92-4 Pahia Ammos 457 bus travel 729-30 Mikro Horio 506 travel to/from 115-16 540 business hours 722 152-3, 152 travel within 117-18 303 Byron, Lord 126, 200-1, 686 Nestor’s Palace 172 walking tour 92, Potamos Beach 247 93 Byzantine Athens 78-9 Nikopoli 289 Athos Peninsula (Secular Preveli Beach 443-4 Byzantine museums Paleokastro 509 Athos) 251-2, 251 578 Byzantine & Christian Pella 259 ATMs 720 Psili Ammos 567 Museum 87 Atsitsa 631 Rhodes 485, 486, 487 Byzantine Museum August Moon Festival 26, 95 Samos 567 (Chios) 571 Map Pages 000 austerity 676 Samothraki 600 Byzantine Museum Photo Pages 000 Avgonyma 573 Santorini (Thira) 388 (Ioannina) 279 743 Byzantine Museum caves Church of Agii language 92, 328, 556 () 263 Blue Caves 668 Theodori 83 yoga 348, 626 Byzantine Museum Cave of Antiparos 350 Church of Dionysios 667 credit cards 720-1 (Mytilini) 581 Cave of Philoctetes 594 Church of Kapnikarea 77 Crete 53, 414-69, 416 Byzantine Museum Cave of Sykia Olymbi Church of Nikolaos accommodation 414 (Veria) 257 576 Orfanos 239 climate 414

Byzantine Museum INDEX Cave of the Lakes 185 Church of Osios David food 414 (Zakynthos) 667 239 Cave of the Sacred Icon highlights 416 Byzantine & Post- of Agios Giannis 364 Church of Panagia history 415 Byzantine Collection Cave of Zeus 360 Evangelistria 323 cruising 35-8, see  B-D 445 Church of Panagia Kera Didyma Caves 145 also boat travel, boat

 Church of Parigoritissa- 463 Dikteon Cave 469 trips, island-hopping Byzantine Museum Church of Panagia of Diros caves 160 culture 676-7, 698-700 290 211 Ecclesiastical (Byzan- Ideon Cave 442 ancient Greece 694-7 Kastania Cave 156 Church of Sotira tine) Museum 561 Lykodimou 81 customs regulations 718 Korykeon Cave 193 Museum of Byzantine & Church of Taxiarhes Cyclades 12, 53, 314-13, Matala ‘hippie’ caves 435 Post-Byzantine Art on (Mani) 158 315 674 Pelekita Cave 466 accommodation 314 Church of the Museum of Byzantine Perama Cave 283 Assumption of the climate 314 Culture 235 Theopetra Cave 225 Virgin Mary 225 food 314 cell phones 18, 722 Church of the Holy highlights 315 C central Greece 52, 186-227, Apostles 79 history 316-17 camping 716 187 Church of the Panagia Cycladic civilisation 678-93 Cape 487-8 accommodation 186 Achiropiitos 238 cycling 48, 728-9 Cape Sounion 125-6 climate 186 Church of the Panagia Cyprus 690 Vrefokratousa 589 Cape Tenaro 161 food 186 Churches of the car travel 730-2 highlights 187 Taxiarhes (Chios) 575 D Carnival 24 children, travel with 49-51 Dadia Forest Reserve 274 Kimisis Tis Theotokou Iraklio 423 Damouhari 214-15 Patra 180 Cathedral 305 Chios 569-76, 569 dance 705 627 Metamorfosis Sotiros Chios Town 571, 572 castles, see also fortresses chapel 568 dangers, see safety churches & cathedrals Agios Georgios Kastro Mitropolis (Cathedral of Delos 340-2, 354 659 Agia Irini 553 Agios Dimitrios) 153 Delphi 10, 187-95, 192, 10 Amfissa Castle 196 Agia Sofia 238 Paleohora 299 Diafani 495-6 Agios Andreas 180 Byzantine-Genoese Panagia Drosiani 361 Diakofti 674 Agios Dimitrios 238 Castle 584 Panagia Ekatontapyliani Diakofto-Kalavryta Castle of Faraklos 485 Agios Eleftherios (Little 344 Railway 184 Metropolis) 79 Castle of Lykourgos Panagia Glykofilousa 586 Diapondia Islands 643 Logothetis 565 Agios Nikolaos Didyma Caves 145 (Galaxidi) 198 Panagia Paraportiani 334 Castle of Myrina 592 Didymotiho 276 Agios Nikolaos cinema, see film Castle of Platamonas (Hania) 445 climate 18, 24-6, see Dimitsana 147-8 257 Agios Nikolaos () also individual regions Dimosari Gorge 613-14 Castle of the Knights 514 214 clothing 20 Dion 256-7 Gardiki Castle 645 Agios Nikolaos coffee 42 Dipotamata Gorge 321 Its Kale 279 Rangavas 81 Colossus of Rhodes 475 Diros caves 160 Kastro (Astypalea) 522 Agios Spyridon columns 707 disabilities, travellers Kastro (Kythira) 671 (Corfu) 637 consulates 718-19 with 723 Kastro (Patra) 180 Agios Spyridon convents, see monasteries Distomo 198 Kavala Castle 265 (Napflio) 139 & convents diving 45 Agios Spyridon Knights of St John Corfu 15, 634-46, 635 Alonnisos 625 (Rethymno) 437 Castle 491 Corfu Town 637-42, Antiparos 350 Agios Therapon 581 Koroni Castle 169 638, 15 Athens 91 Agios Titos 423 Kritinia Castle 488 Corinth 132-3 Chios 575 Agios Vlasios 286 Larissa Castle 135 Corinth Canal 133 Corfu 643 Athens Cathedral 77 Nafpaktos Castle 199 Corinthia 132-4 Fiskardo 661 Cathedral of Agios Neo Kastro 170 Hania 448 Nikolaos 272 costs 19, 717 Pandeli Castle 532 Cathedral of Christos courses, see also individual 455 Venetian Castle 291 Elkomenos 155 locations Ios 376 cathedrals, see churches & Chapel of Theoskepasti art 619 Kalymnos 526 cathedrals 552 cooking 40, 389, 468 Lefkada 653 744 diving continued etiquette 21, 44 Manos Faltaïts Folk Art Space 388 Milos 402 Evdilos 552-3 Museum 628 Athens 94 Mykonos 341 events 24-6 Milos Folk & History Citronne 302 Museum 400 349 Evia 54, 606-14, 607 Collection of Post- Pythagorio 565 accommodation 606 Museum of Folk Art 211 Byzantine Icons 651 Rethymno 437 climate 606 Museum of History & Cultural Foundation of

INDEX INDEX Folk Art 611 Rhodes 481 food 606 323 Mykonos Folklore Sithonian Peninsula 250 highlights 607 Diexodos Museum- Museum 334 Picture Gallery 201 Skiasthos 618 Evros Delta 274 Nautical & Folklore Fish & Olive 361 D-H Thasos 603 exchange rates 19  Museum (Gialos) 502 Modern Greek Art Dodecanese 54, 470-545, Exogi 664 Nautical & Folklore Museum 477  471 Museum (Kalymnos) Municipal Art Gallery accommodation 470 526 F (Hania) 448 climate 470 Folklore Falasarna 452-3 Municipal Art Gallery food 470 Foundation Museum Faros (Ikaria) 551 (Iraklio) 423 highlights 471 138 Faros () 406, 551 Municipal Art Gallery of history 472-3 Fonias River 600 Larissa 205-6 ferries, see boat travel, food 21, 22-3, 39-44 dolphins 714 boat trips, cruising Museum of children, catering for 50 Contemporary Art domatia 716-17 festivals 24-6 festivals 39 (Andros) 319-20 368-9 film 676 645 football 698 Museum of festivals 26, 239, 240 Contemporary Art drinks 42-3, 362, see also forests 712 Filoti 360 (Rethymno) 437 wine fortresses, see also castles Finiki 494 National Gallery - driving 730-2 Acrocorinth 133 Fira 381-6, 382 Alexandros Soutzos drugs 720 Bourtzi 138 fires 711 Museum 139 Dryopida 411 Byzantine Fortress Fiskardo 661-2 National Sculpture Durrell, Gerald 642 (Komotini) 270 flora 712 Gallery 90 Durrell, Lawrence 642 Castello Rosso 613 Florina 260-3 Phos Gallery 361 DVDs 721 Fortezza René Puaux Folegandros 393-7, 395 (Rethymno) 436 Exhibition 170 folklore museums Fortress (Mytilini) 581 E Teriade Museum 581 Centre of Folk Art & Fortress of Agia economy 676-7, 693 Theophilos Museum 581 Tradition 74 Mavra 651 Edessa 258-60 gardens, see parks & Folk Museum 268 Fortress of Trikala 219 Eftalou Beach 586 gardens Folk Museum Kales Fortress 467 (Crete) 459 Gavdos 458 Collection 357 Kastro (Kalamata) 165 Elafonisi (Peloponnese) 157 Gavrio 318-19 Folklore Museum Kastro (Methoni) 169 Elati 220 (Aegina) 297 gay travellers 719 Kastro (Milos) 400 electricity 718 Folklore Museum Athens 109 Kazarma 465 Elefsina 127 (Arta) 291 Mykonos 338 Koules Venetian Eleusis 127 Folklore Museum Gennadi 487 Fortress 423 Elounda 462-3 (Kymi) 610 711-12 Lamia Fortress 203 embassies 718-19 Folklore Museum Geraki 148 Neo Frourio 637 Emborios (Halki) 489-90 (Menetes) 493 Gerolimenas 161 Palaio Frourio 637 Emborios (Kalymnos) Folklore Museum of Gialos 501-4, 479 the Northern Fortress 138 529-30 Gialova 171-2 Sporades 623 Fortress 463 Emborios () 511-12 Gialova Lagoon 171 Folklore Museum Venetian Fortress 320 emergencies 19 Glossa 621-2 (Skopelos) 619 Fourni islands 548-50, Englouvi 654 Gortyna 435 Folkloric Museum 556-8, 548 environmental issues 714 (Edessa) 260 453 Gournia 464 Epanomi 247 Historic & Folklore Frikes 664 Peninsula 452 Epidavros 143-5 Museum 534 Fry 497-8 734-8 Epiros 277-93, 277 Historical & Folk Art Gythio 157 Eretria 609 Museum 437 Ermioni 145 Historical & Folklore G Gaïos 647-8 Ermoupoli 328-31, 329 Museum 275 H Korais Library & Argentis Galatas 145 Hadrian’s Arch 75 Folkloric Museum 571 Galaxidi 197-9 Halki (Dodecanese) 489-91 Map Pages 000 Korgialenio History & Galissas 331 Halki (Naxos) 361 Photo Pages 000 Folklore Museum 657 galleries, see also Halkida 608-9 museums 745 Halkidiki Peninsula 248-55 WWI 686-7 633, 46 Kassandra Peninsula 248-9 hammams WWII 688-9 accommodation 632 643 Athens 81 hitching 732 climate 632 Kastania Cave 156 Loutra 248 holidays 721 food 632 Kastellorizo 498-500 Thessaloniki 238 Hora (Amorgos) 371-2 highlights 633 Kastoria 263-4 Hania 445-51, 446 Hora (Andros) 319-20 history 634 Kastraki 226-7 health 719-20 Hora (Astypalea) 522-3 Ios 374-8, 374 Kastro (Sifnos) 405-6 INDEX Hellenic Festival 26, 94-5 Hora (Folegandros) 395-6 Ioulida 412-13 Kastro () 392-3 Hephaistia 595 Hora (Ios) 375-8 Iraklia 364-5 Katapola 370-1

Heraion 566 Hora (Kythira) 671-2 Iraklio 419-27, 420 Kathisma 653  H-K Heraklion Archaeological Hora () 410-11 Ireon 566 Kato Pedin 285  Museum 421-3, 433 Hora (Mykonos) 334-9, island-hopping 30-4, 316, Kato Zakros 466-7 hiking 22, 47, 48 336, 5 see also boat travel, Kattavia 487 Andros 321 Hora (Naxos) 353-60, 356 boat trips, cruising Kavala 265-6 Ithaki 662-5 Corfu 643 Hora (Patmos) 538-9 Kea (Tzia) 411-13, 412 Iti National Park 204 Crete 448 Hora (Samothraki) 598 Kefallonia 655-62, 656 Delphi 193-4 Hora (Serifos) 408-9 Itilo 158 Kefalos 520 Diafani 495 Hora Sfakion 453-6 itineraries 27-9, 34, see Kemal, Mustafa 238 also walking tours Fourni islands 556 Hora (Tinos) 323-4 Kendros 368 Ghria Vathra Canyon 599 horse riding Keramikos 83 Ikaria 552 Corfu 643 J Keri 668 Jewish heritage Gorge 453 Hydra 305 Kiliomeno 668 Athens 81 Iraklio 424 Kefallonia 657 402 Hania 448 Ithaki 663 Naoussa 348 Kini Beach 331 Rhodes 477 Kalymnos 528 Naxos 357 Kioni 665 Thessaloniki 238, 239 Kardamyli 163 horses 631 Kionia 324 Konitsa 287 Horto 218 Kissamos (Kastelli) 451-2 Menanlon Trail 146 hostels 717 K Kissos 213 Kalamakia 626 Meteora 224 hot springs Kita 160-1 Kalamata 165-7, 166 Mt Ypsario 605 Agios Kirykos 550 kitesurfing 47 Kalambaka 225-6 Nisyros 511 Lamia 203 kitron 362 Kalami 643 Paros 345 Lefkada 551 Kleftiko 399, Kalamitsa 630-1 354 Pelion Peninsula 209 Loutra 411 Klima 401 Kalamitsi 249 Psara 578 Loutra (Therma) 599 Klisova Lagoon 201 Kalavryta 182-5 Samaria Gorge 454 Polyhnitos 590-1 Knossos 15, 427-31, 707, Kallithea 248 Santorini (Thira) 383 Therma 551 427, 15 Kalymnos 524-30, 525 Sifnos 404 Hristos Rahes 553-4 Kokkari 567, 563 Kalyviani 452 Skiathos 618 Hydra 14, 303-9, 304, 14 Komotini 270-1 Kamares 403-4 southern Evia 613 Hydra Town 304-8 Kondouros 413 Kamari (Kos) 520 Steni 610 Konitsa 287-8 Kamari (Santorini) 388 Stoupa 163 Kontias 594 I Kamariotissa 597-8 Tilos 506 Korissia 411-12 Ialysos 488 Kambia 574 history 678-93 Koroni 169 Ierapetra 467-8 Kambos (Ikaria) 553 Alexander the Great Koryshades 202 Igoumenitsa 290 Kambos (Timos) 325 681-3 Kos 512-20, 514 Ikaria 548-58, 548 Kamini 309 ancient civilisations Kos Town 513-18, 516 Imbros Gorge 453 Kamiros 488 678-9 Koufonisia 366-8 immigration 677, 699, 724 Kapsali 672-3 Balkan wars 687 Kranidi 145 Inousses 576-7 Karavostamo 555-6 683-4 Krithoni 534-5 insurance Karavostasis 394-5 civil war 689-90 Kritsa 463 health 720 Kardamyla 574 classical age 679-80 Krokos 325 vehicle 728 Kardamyli 163-5 geometric & Archaic Ktikados 325 ages 679 internet access 720 Kardiani 325 Kyllini 179 Hellenistic age 682 internet resources 19 Karlovasi 567-8 Kymi 610 Independence 685 children, travel with 51 491-6, 492 Kynouria 148 Ottoman rule 684-5 government advice 718 Karpenisi 201-2 276 Peloponnesian wars 681 history 693 Karya 654 Kythira 669-74, 670 Persian wars 680-1 Ioannina 279-82, 280 Karystos 612-13 54, 632-74, Kythnos 409-11, 409 Roman era 683 Kasos 496-8, 496 746 L Loutraki 621-2 Messinia 165-72 Moni Faneromenis 651 Lagia 162 456 Messinian Mani 162-5 Moni Filanthropinon Lakka 648-9 Messolongi 200-1 282-3 Lakki 533-4 M Mesta 574-6 Moni Hozoviotissis 372, 354 Lakones 645 231-66, 230 Metaxas, Ioannis 688 Moni Kaisarianis 79 Lakonia 148-57 Magazia (Paxi) 648 Meteora 9, 221-4, 222, 9

INDEX INDEX Moni Kalamiotissas 391 Lakonian Mani 157-62 Magazia (Skyros) 630 Methoni 169-70 Moni Mega Spileo 185 Lamia 203-4 211-12 Metochi 145 Moni Megalou Langada (Amorgos) 373 Malia 431 Metsovo 278 Meteorou 223 L- Langada (Chios) 574 Mandraki (Hydra) 309 Mezapos 160  M Moni Metamorfosis 198  Langada Pass 154 Mandraki (Nisyros) 508-10 Mikro Horio (Karpenisi) 202 Moni Osios Loukas 197 language 734-8 Mani, the 16, 157-65 Mikro Horio (Tilos) 506 Moni Panagias Elonis 148 Larissa 205-6 Manolates 567 Mikro Papingo 286 Moni Panagias 584 Plateau 468-9 Milies 216-17 Kounistras 617-18 maps 720 Lato 464 Milina 218 Moni Panagias Lavrio 122 Marathi 544 Milos 397-402, 397 Proussiotissas 202 Lefkada (Ikaria) 551 Marathon 126-7 Minoan sites 431 Moni Panagias Spilianis Lefkada (Ionian Islands) Marathounda 504 Minoans 678-9, 706 (Mandraki) 509 649-54, 650 Maries 603 mobile phones 18, 722 Moni Panagias Spilianis Lefkada Town 651-2 maritime museums Mohlos 464 (Vathy) 565 Lefkes 349 Aegean Maritime Molos 630 Moni Preveli 443 644 Museum 334 Molyvos () 584-6 Moni Profiti Ilia Lefkos 494 Hellenic Maritime monasteries & convents (Amfissa) 196 legal matters 720 Museum 118 Agios Oros 252-5 Moni Profiti Ilia (Hydra) 309 Leonidio 148 Maritime Museum of Convent of Galataki 611 Crete 445 Moni Taxiarhon 584 Leros 530-5, 531 Convent of Pantanassa Maritime Museum 386 Moni Taxiarhou Mihail lesbian travellers 719 153 Nautical & Folklore Panormiti 504 Athens 109 Holy Monastery of Museum (Gialos) 502 Moni Theotokou 645 Skala Eressou 588 Zoodohos Pigi 539 Nautical & Folklore Moni Toplou 466 Lesvos (Mytilini) 17, 579-91, Monastery of Kimisis Museum Theotokou 578 Moni Varlaam 223 580 (Kalymnos) 526 Monastery of St John the Moni Xenofondos 255, 16 Lesvos Petrified Forest Nautical Historical Theologian 538 Moni Zoödohou Pigis 587, 563 Museum 198 Monastery of the 303 Limenaria 603 Nautical Museum of Apocalypse 538-9 Mt Athos (Agion Oros) Limenas Mesta 576 Inousses 576 Monastery of 252-5 Limeni 160 Marmari 161 Vlatadon 239 Nea Moni 573 Limni 611-12 574 Monastery of Zyrgou 252 Vrontokhion Limnia 574 Masouri 527-9 Moni Agia Paraskevi 285 Monastery 153 Limnos 591-5, 592 Mastihari 519-20 Moni Agias Lavras 185 Monemvasia 154-6 Lindos 485-7 Mastihohoria 574 Moni Agias Triados 223 money 18, 19, 21, 720-1 Lionas 363 Matala 435-6 Moni Agias Varvaras discount cards 718 Lipsi 540-3, 542 measures 721 Rousanou 223, 9 Moni Arkadiou 440-1 Lipsi Village 541-3 medical services 719 Moni Agiou Gerasimou Moni Dafniou 79 literature, see books Megali Petra 653 659 Moni Hozoviotissis 372, Litohoro 255-6 Megalo Horio Moni Agiou Nikolaou 354 Livadi (Astypalea) 523 (Agathonisi) 545 222, 9 Moni Kaisarianis 79 Livadi (Serifos) 407-8 Megalo Horio Moni Agiou Stefanou 223 Moni Osios Loukas 197 (Karpenisi) 202 Livadia 506-7 Moni Agiou Vissarion Moni Toplou 466 Megalo Horio (Tilos) 507 local tranport 732-3 220 monk seals 625 Megalo Papingo 286 Loggos 648 Moni Arhangelou 605 Monodendri 285 Megalohori 387 Louha 668 Moni Arkadiou 440-1 Monolithos 488 Meganisi 654-5 Loutra (Kythos) 411 Moni Chrysopigi 406 mosques Melanes 362 Loutra Edipsou 610-11 Moni Dafniou 79 Bayezit’s Mosque 276 Melinda 590 Loutra (Therma) 599-600 Moni Episkopis 392 Fethiye Mosque 199 Menalon Trail 146 Moni Evaggelistria 285 Koursoun Tzami 219 Menetes 493 Moni Evangelistrias Mosque of Suleyman 477 Merihas 410 (Skiathos) 617 Map Pages Neratzes Mosque 437 000 Mersini 368 Moni Evangelistrias Photo Pages Yeni Tzami 581 000 Messini 167-9 (Skopelos) 622 747 motorcycle travel 730-2 Jewish Museum of National Museum of Parnassos National Moudros 594 Thessaloniki 238 Contemporary Art 75 Park 196 Mountanistika 161 Jewish Synagogue Natural History Museum Vikos-Aoös National Park Mouressi 214-15 Museum 477 of the Lesvos Petrified 284-5 Forest 587 Mt Athos 252-5 Kanellopoulos nature 711-14 Museum 81 Old Radio Museum 218 Mt Ohi 613 Naxos 351-63, 351

Komboloi Museum 138-9 Open Air Water Power INDEX Mt Olympus 256 390 Megaro Gyzi Museum 147 Neapoli 156-7 Mt Parnitha National Museum 382 Papadiamanti House Park 126 Nekromanteio of Afyra 293 Milos Mining Museum 615

Nemea 133-4  M-P Mt Psiloritis 442 Museum 399 Paragaea Olive Oil museums 22, see also Museum 292 Neos Marmaras 249  Mineralogical archaeological Museum 122 Pikoulakis Tower House Neraidochori 220 museums, Byzantine Mitropolis Museum 357 Museum 158 newspapers 721 museums, folklore Nikea 512 museums, galleries, Museum House of Santozeum 382 maritime museums Yannoulis Halepas 325 Spetses Museum 311 Nikiti 249 Acropolis Museum 73 Museum of Asian Art 637 Theophilos Museum 211 Nikopoli 289 Ali Pasha Museum 282 Museum of Cretan Thessaloniki Museum of Nimborios 504 Antivouniotissa Museum Ethnology 436 Photography 238 Nisyros 508-12, 509, 479 637 Museum of Cycladic Tobacco Museum 265 northeastern Aegean Art of Silk Museum 275 Art 86-7 Tsalapatas Brickworks islands 54, 546-605, 547 Bakratsa Mansion Museum of Decorative Museum 206 Museum 619 Arts 477 Vrana Olive-Press accommodation 546 Bath House of the Museum of Greek Museum 585 climate 546 Winds 81 Gastronomy 84-6 Natural History food 546 Benaki Museum 86 Museum of Greek Popu- Museum 590 highlights 547 lar Instruments 74 Benaki Museum Pireos War Museum 533-4 northern Greece 53, Annexe 83 Museum of Hellenic music 23, 703-5 228-93, 229 Culture 225 Botsari Museum 199 bouzoukia 110 accommodation 228 Museum of History & festivals 26, 95, 139, climate 228 Bouboulina’s Museum Art 201 311 240, 549 food 228 Museum of Industrial rembetika 704 highlights 229 Christos Capralos Olive Oil Production Museum 299 585 Mycenae 135-8 Nydri 652 Cinema Museum 238 Museum of Islamic Art 84 Mykonos 331-41, 332 Citrus Memories Mylopotamos 215-16 Museum of Marble O Museum 573 Mylopotas 375-8 Crafts 325 Oia 386-7, 354 Della Rocca-Barozzi Myrina 592-4 Museum of Natural Old Alonnisos 626 Venetian Museum 353 Myrties 527-9 History 225 olives 165, 216, 585 Delphi Museum 193 Museum of Myrtos 468 Ecclesiastical Art Museum Olymbi 576 Nicopolis 289 Mystras 151-4, 152 (Alexandropouli) 272 Olymbos 495, 479 Museum of Prehistoric mythology 613, 695-7 Ecclesiastical Museum Olympia 17, 173-7, 176, 17 Thera 381-2 Mytilini Town 581-4, 582 (Komotini) 270-1 Museum of Samos Olympic games 62, 173-7 Ecclesiastical Museum of Wines 561 opening hours 722 Milos 399 Museum of Solomos 667 N 275-6 Eggares Olive Press 362 Museum of the City of Nafpaktos 199-200 Ormos 375-8 Epigraphical Museum 74 Volos 206-7 Nafplio 138-43, 140 Ormos Marathokambou Ethnological Museum of Museum of the History Nanou 504 567 Thrace 272 of the Olympic Games Naoussa 348-9 Otzias 413 Focas-Kosmetatos in Antiquity 177 Nas 554 251-2 Foundation 657 Museum of the Kalavryta National Archaeological ouzo 42 Giustiniani Palace Holocaust 183 Museum 84-6, 85 Museum 571 Museum of the Macedo- national parks & Herakleidon Museum 83 nian Struggle 236 reserves 713 P palaces, see also archaeo- Historical Archives Museum of the Memorial Dadia Forest Reserve logical sites, castles Museum of Hydra 305 of the Refugees of 274-5 Achillion Palace 644 Historical Museum of 1922 584 Iti National Park 204 Crete 423 Palace of St Michael & Museum of the Olive 216 Mt Parnitha National St George 637 Industrial Museum of Museum of the Olive & Park 126 Ermoupoli 328 Palace of the Grand Greek Olive Oil 149 National Marine Park of Master 476 Jewish Museum National Historical Alonnisos Northern (Athens) 81 Museum 83 Sporades 623-4 Palamari 631 748 Paleohora 457-9 climate 128 public holidays 721 highlights 295 Paleokastritsa 645 food 128 Pyli 220, 519 Sarti 249 Paleokastro highlights 130 Pylos 170-1 scams, see safety (Kastellorizo) 499 history 129 Pyrgi 574, 563 Schinousa 365-6 Paleokastro (Mandraki) 509 Pendalofos 276 Pyrgos 325, 387, 567 sculpture 695 Paleokastro (Messinia) 172 Perdika 299-300 Pyrgos Dirou 160 senior travellers 718 INDEX INDEX Paleopoli (Andros) 321 Perissa 388-90 Pythagoras 558 Serifos 406-7, 408 Paleopoli (Kythira) 674 Pertouli 220 Pythagorio 564-6 Siana 488 Pali 512 Petra 586 Sifnos 402-6, 405

P-S Palia Kameni 390 Petrota 276 587  Paliki Peninsula 660 R Phaestos 431 Rafina 121-2 Sikinos 392-3, 393  Palio Trikeri 218 philosophers 694-5 religion 677, 700 Sithonian Peninsula 249-51 Panagia 604 phonecards 722 rembetika 704 Sitia 464-6 Pandeli 533 photography 721 reserves, see national Skala (Angistri) 300 Panormitis 504 Pigadia 491-3 parks & reserves Skala (Astypalea) 522-3 Panormos 325 Pinakates 216 Rethymno 436-40, 438, Skala Eresou 587-9 Papadopoulos, Georgios 691 Piraeus 118-21, 119 433 Skala Kallonis 587 Papandreou, Andreas 691 Plaka 400-1 Rhodes 11, 473-89, 472, 11 Skala Kamirou 488 Papandreou, Georgios 690-1 Plaka Litohoro 255-6 Rhodes Town 475-85, 476, Skala Marion 603 Papingo 286-7 Plakias 442-3 480, 479 Skala (Patmos) 536-8 Paralia Kymis 610 planning 20-1 Rina 530 Skala Polyhnitou 591 Parga 291-3 budgeting 19 road rules 732 Skala Prinou 603 Parikia 343-7, 346 calendar of events 24-6 rock climbing Skiathos 614-18, 615 parks & gardens, see children 49-51 Kalymnos 528 Skiathos Town 615-17 also national parks & Greece basics 18-19 Meteora 224 skiing 48 reserves Greece’s regions 52-4 Roman sites, see also Florina 261 Areopagus Hill 75 internet resources 19 archaeological sites, Metsovo 278 Filopappou Hill 74-5 temples & sanctuaries, island-hopping 30-1 Mt Helmos 185 Garden of the Heroes 200 tombs itineraries 27-9, 34 Mt Vermio 258 Hill of the Pnyx 75 Ancient Corinth 132-3 travel seasons 18, 24-6 Skopelos 618-22, 620 National Gardens 82 Argos 135 Platanias 218-19 Skopelos Town 619-21 Serpentine Organic Hadrian’s Arch 75 Garden 215 Platanos 532-3 Hadrian’s Library 77 Skyrian horses 631 Waterfalls Park 259-60 Plato 694 Roman Agora 77 Skyros 627-31, 628 Zappeio Gardens 82 Platys Gialos 406 Roman baths 82-3 Skyros Town 627-9 Parnassos National Park 196 Poles 413 Thessaloniki 236-8 Small Cyclades 363-9, 363 Poliohni 594 smoking 721-2 Paros 342-50, 344 Rousoum Gialos 626 Parthenon 67-9 politics 676-7, 692-3 snakes 713 passports 724 Pollonia 401 snorkelling 45, see Polyhrono 248 S also diving Patitiri 623-6 safety 50, 114, 719, 721 Polyrrinia 452 snowboarding 48 Patmos 12, 535-40, 536, 12 sailing 36 Pomakohoria 269, 270 soccer 698 Patra (Patras) 179-82, 181 Samaria Gorge 13, 454, population 677 Socrates 681, 682, 694 Pausanias 144 13, 46 Poros 301-3, Sougia 456-7 Paxi 646-9, 647 301 Sami 660-1 Poros Town 302-3 Sparta 148-51, 150 Peania 127 Samos 558-68, 560 Portaria 211 Spartans 149 Pedi 504 Samothraki 596-600, 597 Porto Heli 145 Spartohori 654 Pefkohori 248 San Michalis 331 Porto Kagio 161 Spartylas 642 Pefkoulia 653 Sanctuary of the Great Spetses 309-13, 310 645 Porto Katsiki 653 Gods 598-9, 563 Spetses Town 311-13 Pelion Peninsula 209-19, Posidonia 331 Sangri 361 Spili 442, 210 Potamos 673-4 Santorini (Thira) 10, 378- 2 Pella 259 Pothia 526-7 90, 379, 11, 23 Spinalonga Island 463, 433 Peloponnese 52, 128-85, Pouri 212 Sappho 587, 589 Sporades 54, 606-7, 614-31, 130 Prespa Lakes 262 Sarakiniko 401 607 accommodation 128 Preveza 288-9 Saronic Gulf Islands 53, accommodation 606 Psara 577-9 294-313, 295 climate 606 Psarades 262 accommodation 294 food 606 Map Pages 000 Psili Ammos 567 climate 294 highlights 607 Photo Pages 000 Psyhro 469 food 294 sports 698 749 Stavros (Donousa) 368 Temple of Poseidon Parga Tour Train 292 Votsi 626 Stavros (Ithaki) 664 (Poros) 303 To Trenaki 217 Vourliotes 567 Stemnitsa 146-7 Thasos 600-5, 601 to/from Greece 725 Vourvoulos 387 Steni 609-10 Thasos (Limenas) 602 within Greece 733 Vouvourou 249 Steni Vala 626 The Island (To Nisi) 282-3 transport to/from Greece Vravrona 127 Sterea Ellada 187-205, 188 theatre 694 724-8 Vromolithos 533 Stoupa 162-3 festivals 95, 549 transport within Greece Vrondero 262 INDEX Strinylas 642 Theologos 603 728-33 Vrontados 573 surfing 47 Therma 551 travellers cheques 721 Vroukounda 495

Symi 500-4 Thermopylae 203 trekking, see hiking Vyzitsa 216  S-Z Thessaloniki 13, 231-47, Trikala 219-21  synagogues Etz Hayyim Synagogue 232-3, 13 Triopetra 444 448 accommodation 240-1 Tris Boukes Bay 631 W walking, see hiking Kahal Shalom drinking & nightlife 242-5 Trypi 154 walking tours Synagogue 477 entertainment 245 Trypiti (Athos Athens 92, Monastirioton 239 food 241-2 Peninsula) 252 92 Thessaloniki 236, Syriza 676-7 history 235 Trypiti (Milos) 400-1 236 water 720 Syros 326-31, 327 medical services 245 Tsagarada 215 waterskiing 47 shopping 245 tsipouradika 207 weather 18, 24-6, see sights 235-9 Tsipras, Alex 676-7 T also individual regions Tarabados 325 tourist information 245 , travel to/from 559 websites, see internet 529 transport to/from 246-7 resources turtles 714 telephone services 18, 722 transport within 247 weights 721 Tzermiado 469 temples & sanctuaries, walking tour 236, 236 white-water rafting 47-8 see also archaeological Thessaloniki International wildlife 712-14 sites, Roman sites, Film Festival 26 tombs V windsurfing 45-7 205-27, 205 vacations 721 Parthenon 67-9 wine 42-3 Thirasia 390 Vaï 466 Sacred Precinct of Iraklio Wine Country Thiva (Thebes) 189 Zeus 173 Vale of Tembi 206 434 Tholaria 373 Sanctuaries of the Vari Bay 331 Kefallonia 659 Foreign Gods 342 Thrace 266-76, 267 Vasiliki 652-3 Nemea 134 Sanctuary of Apollo Tilos 504-8, 505 Vasilikos Peninsula 668 Santorini (Thira) 389 189-92 time 18, 722 Vatera 590-1 wolves 712-13 Sanctuary of 127 Tinos 321-5, 322 Vathia 161 women travellers 723 Sanctuary of Asclepius tipping 21, 38, 721 Vathy (Ithaki) 663-4 work 723 (Ancient Messini) 168 Tiryns 143 Vathy (Samos) 560-4, 564 Sanctuary of Asclepius toilets 722 Vathy (Sifnos) 406 (Epidavros) 144 tombs Vathys 530 X Sanctuary of Athena Xanthi 268-9 Lycian tomb 499 vegetarian travellers 43 Pronea 193 Xirokambos 534 Marathon Battlefield & Venizelos, Eleftherios Sanctuary of the Great Xylokeriza 313 Tomb 126 686-8 Gods 598-9, 563 Xylouris, Nikos 441 Mausoleum of Vergina 259 Sanctuary of the Inousses 577 Kabeiroi 594 Veria 257-8 Treasury of Atreus Sanctuary of Zeus 133 Vikos Gorge 284-5, 2, 15 Y (Agamemnon’s Vikos-Aoös National Park yachting 36 Temple of Aphaia 299 Tomb) 137 284-5 Temple of Apollo tourist information 722-3, visas 18, 723 (Aegina) 297 see also individual Z Temple of Apollo (Naxos) locations visual arts 22, 701-2 Zagora 212-13 353, 2 Tourlida 201 Vlyhos 309 Zagorohoria 15 Temple of Athena Nike 67 tours 733, see also volcanoes Zagorohoria, the 15, 283-7, Temple of Demeter 361 individual locations Nisyros 511, 2 284, 5 Temple of Epicurean tower houses 159 Santorini (Thira) 378-90 Zakros 466-7 Apollo at Vasses 178 Toxotes 270 Volimes 668 Zakros Gorge 466 Temple of Hera 176 Tragaea 360 Volissos 574 Zakynthos 665-9, 666 Temple of Olympian train travel Volos 206-9 Zakynthos Town 667-8 Zeus 75 Diakofto-Kalavryta volunteering 723 Zaros 434-5 Temple of Poseidon Railway 184 Votsalakia 567 (Cape Sounion) 125-6 Zia 519 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 750

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/ International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Michael Stamatios Clark Northeastern Aegean Islands, Evia & the Sporades Michael’s Greek roots go back to the village of Karavostamo on the Aegean island of Ikaria, home of his maternal grandparents who emigrated to America. His first trip to Greece was as a deck- hand aboard a Greek freighter, trading English lessons for Greek over wine and backgammon. Since then, he has become a Greek citizen, visits the islands often and enjoys rembetika and retsina. He has also worked on Lonely Planet guides to Burma (Myanmar), New York and Hawaii.

Anita Isalska Northern Greece Anita is a travel journalist, editor and freelance copywriter. Formerly a digital editor at Lonely Planet’s London office, she flew the coop to write the world. As well as Lonely Planet, Anita writes for CNN Travel, Rough Guides, BBC Travel, Escapism and more, especially about the Balkans and East- ern Europe, adventure and wildlife travel. She’s never happier than when roaming Soviet-era ruins or researching macabre folklore. Check out more of her writing on www.anitaisalska.com. Anita also wrote the Outdoor Activities chapter. Read more about Anita at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/anitatravels Anna Kaminski Peloponnese The product of a Classical education and a Hellenophile since dis- covering Myths and Legends of Ancient Greece at the age of five, Anna has been coming back to Greece repeatedly since a memorable school trip back in 1997 to explore ancient ruins, hike its mountains and dive in the Aegean. She was thrilled to return to the myth-rich Peloponnese to explore its furthest corners and firmly believes that southern Mani is one of the most remarkable places on earth. Anna also wrote the Culture chapter.

Greg Ward Dodecanese Having first visited Greece as an InterRailing teenager, Greg Ward (www.gregward.info) has been returning ever since, and honeymooned on . He has written books and articles about the Greek islands for many publishers and newspapers.

Richard Waters Ionian Islands Richard is an award-winning journalist and writes about Greece for the Daily Telegraph, the Independent and Sunday Times Travel Magazine. He lives with his family in the Cotswolds but his spiritual home is in the islands of Greece where he first went as a boy in 1974. Since then he has been more than 20 times, and is most at home sat in a kafenio talking about myths, digging into freshly caught calamari and island hopping. As ever his admiration goes out to the people of Greece who, despite unimaginably difficult times, remain among the friendliest on the planet. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Korina Miller Coordinating Author, Crete Korina first ventured to Greece as a backpacking teenager, sleeping on ferry decks and hiking in the mountains. Since then, she’s found herself drawn back to soak up the timelessness of the old towns and drink coffee with locals in seasidekafeneio . Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been exploring the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies and an MA in Migration Studies en route. Korina has written nearly 40 titles for Lonely Planet and also works as a children’s writing coach. Korina also wrote Plan Your Trip (except for Outdoor Activities), Understand Greece (except for Ancient Greek Culture) and Survival Guide.

Kate Armstrong Central Greece Having studied history and fine arts, Kate headed to Greece aeons ago to view a kouros, and fell in love with the country. The Pythia at Delphi told her she’d return; she has, frequently. For this edition she climbed rock pin- nacles at Meteora and tackled donkey paths in the Pelion. She devoured kilos of seafood, several sheep, thousands of kilometres and was constantly astonished by the Aphrodite-style she received mid-Greece crisis. Read more about Kate at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/kate_armstrong Alexis Averbuck Athens & Around, Crete, Saronic Gulf Islands Alexis lives in Hydra, takes regular reverse R&R in Athens, and makes any excuse she can to travel the isolated back roads of her adopted land. She is committed to dispelling the stereotype that Greece is simply a string of sandy beaches. A travel writer for two decades, Alex- is has lived in Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat and written books on her journeys through Asia and the Americas. She’s also a painter – visit www.alexisaverbuck.com. Read more about Alexis at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/alexisaverbuck Carolyn Bain Cyclades Melbourne-born Carolyn worked on her first guidebook for Lonely Planet back in 2000, and it involved some serious island-hopping around Greece. There began two addictions: writing guidebooks, and the Greek islands. Fifteen years later, this trip fed those addictions over a glorious two-month stint, in which Carolyn visited all the Cyclades. She has now visited 50 Greek islands – and has way too many favourites. Read more at carolynbain.com.au.

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