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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. shared their stories, knowledge and enthusi- OUR READERS asm for Greece and were unwaveringly hospi- Many thanks to the travellers who used the table despite such difficult times. And thanks last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, to Bing the loyal coonhound for keeping me useful advice and interesting anecdotes: company while I burned the midnight oil. Abby Gershenzon, Alen & Andrea Lai, Alexandra Bliss, Allan Smith, Annette Stamatiadis, Cengiz Kate Armstrong Aksu, Christian Ulrich, Collado Marimar, Dirk van I am constantly humbled by the generosity of Norren, Francisco Buny, George Moss, Jenn Hicks, the Greek people in tough times. Efharisto poli, Jonathan Amies, Jordi Bibià, Joy Morrison, Judi as always, to the Zotos family in Nafplion, to Yiannis at Alsos House for your knowledge and Moriarty, Judy Ridge, Katherine Pezet, Kathleen for sharing so much, to Alex Groth in Makrin- Doherty, Laura van Eerten, Linde Barrera, Liz itsa for welcoming me regardless of time and Killebrew, Lloyd Collyer, Matheus Ferreira, Mike distance, and to SB Barker for your Herculean Priaulx, Nadine Pilz, Pernille Sand, Rainer Feichter, friendship and driving skills. (I’ll never catch Robert Burkill, Sarah Heretz, Sien Hasker, Simon up on the Omega intake.) Finally, to Brana – Sy Lui you’re the best, as is the LP team and my fel- low team of authors. AUTHOR THANKS Alexis Averbuck Korina Miller Boundless gratitude to Alexandra Stamopou- An enormous thank you to Kirk and my mum lou for her INSPIRATION. She travels with me and dad for minding the fort while I was away everywhere. Ryan Ver Berkmoes was a peachy and making it possible for me to take this pro- road companion and an aces navigator on ject on. Thank you to my fabulous daughters, unmarked Cretan tracks. Thanks to Ramona Monique and Simone, for letting me work and for an insider’s take on Gavdos. Big cheer for also encouraging me to take breaks. Thank Korina, Kate and Richard, who contributed so you to Brana at LP for her support and to my much to the Crete chapter. Applause for Bra- co-authors for their insights and cameraderie. na: conscientious, informed and compassion- A warm efharisto to all of the people I met on ate editor. Margarita, Kostas, Zisis, Anthy and the road – both locals and travellers – who Costas made Athens home. Efharisto poli to those who welcomed me so warmly around Anna Kaminski Crete, the Saronic Gulf and Athens. I would like to thank Brana for entrusting me with these chapters, my fellow scribes Carolyn Bain and everyone who enhanced my journey, Efharisto poli to Brana Vladisavljevic for a particularly my mum for sharing two weeks wonderful gig, and to Team Greece for ster- on the road with me and being such an able BEHIND THE SCENES ling work. Across the Cyclades, hundreds of research assistant; Mina of Antares; Byron in kind, generous locals (and visitors) answered Monemvasia; Maria and Panos in Dimitsana; my questions, engaged in conversation, fed George in Kalavryta; Nikos in Kardamyli; me (oh god, did they feed me!) and showed Alexis and Ryan on Hydra; and Alexander in me the meaning of heartwarming Greek filox- Nafplio. enia. Sincere thanks to all of them. Thanks to old friends Fiona and William Reeve for fun Greg Ward on Santorini, and to my favourite co-traveller, Thanks to the many wonderful people who Kelvin Adams, for three weeks of ace com- make travelling in the Dodecanese such a pany and dedicated research of beaches and pleasure, and thanks above all to my wife, blue domes. Sam Cook, for sharing the fun. Michael Stamatios Clark Richard Waters Ευχαριστω to all who made my ferry-hopping Special thanks to Michael in Corfu and Leo- through the Greek islands a trip from the nidas at Pachis travel. Also to Lily Alicabiotis. start. Special thanks to my splendiferous There are many Greek people who made family, Janet, Melina and Alexandros, and to my journey easy at what were difficult times the editorial team of Brana Vladisavljevic and for them, so my thanks to all. Thanks too to Korina Miller for cheerful support through- Korina Miller and Alexis Averbuck, my coordi- out. In the Sporades islands, many thanks nating authors, for all their help and patience, to Chrysanthi, Amanda, Heather, Pakis, and to Brana Vladisavljevic, my destination Alexandra, Georgos and Mahi, Makis, Bessie, ed, for sending me out there. Gisela; in the Aegean, thanks to Anastasia, Theofilos, the Fouskas family, Demetra and Vassilis, Naya and Petros, and Tasos, Marga- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS rita and Kostas. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- Anita Isalska ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Thank you to every shepherd who mimed Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System driving directions, and every guesthouse Sciences, 11, 1633 44. owner who ushered me inside for tsipouro. Illustrations pp64–5, pp428–9 by Javier Big thanks especially to the team at Arta’s Martinez Zarracina. Illustration pp190–1 by Archaeological Museum and Central Mac- Michael Weldon. edonia’s tourism department, and Helen Cover photograph: Parthenon, Athens; Tarbet for translations and insights. Thanks Alamy/Art Kowalsky also to Richard Waters and Trent Holden for seasoned authorly advice. Bear hugs to Joe Revill, Jessica Crouch and Jane Atkin for cheering me on. Heartfelt thank yous to Nor- mal Matt, for more than I can list. guidebook was produced by Assisting Editors Andrew THIS BOOK the following: This 12th edition of Lonely Bain, Pete Cruttenden, Melanie Dankel, Gabrielle Innes, Ali Planet’s Greece guidebook Destination Editor Lemer, Charlotte Orr, Susan was researched and written by Brana Vladisavljevic Korina Miller, Kate Armstrong, Paterson Product Editors Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain, Cartographer Mick Garrett Kate James, Kate Mathews Michael Stamatios Clark, Anita Cover Researcher Isalska, Anna Kaminski, Greg Senior Cartographer Naomi Parker Valentina Kremenchutskaya Ward and Richard Waters. This Thanks to Claire Murphy, Book Designer Cam Ashley Kirsten Rawlings, Dianne ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 741 Index A Agios Nikolaos (Crete) Ano Petali 405 Archaeological Museum Abdera 270 460-2, 460 Ano Syros 330 (Komotini) 270 accommodation 20, 716-17, Agios Nikolaos (Zakynthos) Anogi 664 Archaeological Museum see also individual 668 Anogia 441-2 (Kos) 515 locations Agios Pavlos 444 Antia 612 Archaeological Museum Agios Stefanos 643 (Lefkada) 651 Achaïa 179-85 Antikythira 674, 670 Acrocorinth 133 air travel Archaeological Museum Antiparos 350-1, 344 (Mandraki) 509 Acropolis 9, 63-9, 66, 8 airports 724 Antipaxi 649, 647 Archaeological Museum activities 45-8, see also to/from Greece 724-5 Apella Beach 495 (Mykonos) 334 individual activities within Greece 33, 728 Aphrodite 671 Archaeological Museum Adamas 398-9 alcohol 42-3, 362, see also Apiranthos 362 (Myrina) 592-3 Aegean, see northeastern wine Apollo Coast 122-5 Archaeological Museum Aegean islands Alexander the Great 681-3 Apollonas 363 (Nafplio) 138 Aegiali 372-3 Alexandroupoli 271-4 Apollonia 404-5 Archaeological Museum Aegina 296-300, 296 Alika 161 Arahova 196-7 (Parikia) 345 Aegina Town 297-9 Alinda 534-5 archaeological museums Archaeological Museum Agapi 325 Alogoporos 218 (Rethymno) 437 Ancient Mycenae Museum Agathonisi 544-5 Alonnisos 622-7, 624 137 Archaeological Museum (Rhodes) 475-6 Agia Galini 444 Alopronia 392-3 Andros Archaeological Agia Kyriaki 218 Ambelakia 206 Museum 320 Archaeological Museum (Samos) 561 Agia Marina (Leros) 532-3 Amfissa 196 Archaeological Museum Agia Marina (Spetses) 313 Ammouliani 252 (Agios Nikolaos) 461 Archaeological Museum (Samothraki) 599 Agia Paraskevi 313 Amorgos 369-74, 369 Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum Agia Pelagia 673-4 Amphipolis 248 (Ancient Olympia) 177 (Sparta) 150 Agia Triada 431 Anafi 390-1 Archaeological Museum (Arta) 290-1 Archaeological Museum Agiasos 589 Anakasia 211 (Thessaloniki) 235 Agii Anargyri 313 Anavatos 573 Archaeological Museum (Astypalea) 522 Archaeological Museum Agion Oros 252-5 Ancient Agora (Athens) (Veria) 257 Archaeological Museum Agios Ahillios 262 75-7, 23 (Chios) 571 Archaeological Museum Agios Antonios 508 Ancient Corinth 132 (Volos) 206 Archaeological Museum Agios Efstratios 595-6 Ancient Delos 340-2 (Fira) 381 Archaeological Museum of Amfissa 196 Agios Georgios (Agathonisi) Ancient Delphi 10, Archaeological Museum 544-5 189-93, 10 (Florina) 261 Archaeological Museum of Argos 135 Agios Georgios (Crete) 469 Ancient Dion 256-7 Archaeological Museum Agios Germanos