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Chilean Cuisine

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Chilean Cuisine 'i''" q rg -tI 7;,\.'+ ! .: r r ! fr I r I t r lt ! t t I tf I { I 3 -, +r. {* CUSINE &WII{E 3' 5.l5AN iil!,,i.lS I have a thing for cemeteries, and I visit them wherever I travel. They tell us a lot about the culture and histo4, of a people and place. It was on a quiet morning stroll through the Cementario de Disidentes in Valparaiso, reading headstones from the late rSoos * Mr"rrphy, Werkmeister, Hagnauer, Ffe, Tornquist, MacAuliffe, Rivera, Astaburnago, Morales, Figueroa - $'hen I began to appreciate the origins of Chiiean cuisine. Chie is a colrno-l mo deC by immigranas as rnu.li a5 b/ its lsf w rh fresh spinach and alnrr:,nd sauce. ba<ed au gratin Nor rdrgenous peop e. Over gererat ors. as fanrl les blended. cojinovo (hake) over a parsle/ r sorro. wiire \,,/ ne reducr on, -r..p- wi .toc .odd ^ I lava beans and tonratoes. Nor cofiorones (shImp) and s empdnodd F Span sh. rs caied ire taste that peppers in a mozzare la fondue Nor p afters of lLi cI of a Cornish pasty And dre trad i on of orces. ostros (oysters), olmeyos iclamsl, mochos (razor ( rera y e eve.s. but parraten abcrt 5prnl clarns) !./ th me ted parmesan. d/bocord (tirnirl. is c ear / a colsin of Erg sh afternoon tea erlzos lsea rrrch ns). /ocos (aba onel, co/omdres Overa . food in Chite ls ess splcy t'r:1i orher (squld),.orvind (bass i<e deep water lsh) and Latin Amer aaf co!ntr es, r:asti:rg more EirroJean Lhan L"t!lnc. was, I confess. gforant. How could have Geography and climate also Cerermine what lmag ned de ectable corn fed. free range ends rp on the d nner rablc Ch'le ls a rnost chickens wirh co odu vegetabescoo<ed nclay 2,700mi long. bui, on average, only 70 Bonni ,orsl Beef and ch c<en brochetles. sruffec w th wide yoLr are rever iar l_om rhe sea Otherthaf p ums and v"rapped n baconl l.arinated tamb n rlr€ Chilear) sea b:ss !o cfien fearured on fore gn rosemary crust? De lcale slices oi srTlol(ecl sa raon me1us. d dn I l<now what to expecr befcre nry ii:_si vis i. served over couscous with cor ander oll? EggfrLr t bocado Certa n y not Congrro Almendrodo ol Croten, a s gnature f r'n \ /hite w th a whire cho.olale saucel rr tF\ F 7,ll, - --r' t ,Q{*'Va' n'/ Pastel de choclo: A traditionar dish Pisco Sour First layer: The signoture drink of Chile, offered ot every social evenL Brown ground meat (beef, pori<, or a combination) with chopped I shot Pisco Brandy onions, gadic, sa t, pepper. Drain. Spread in a deep baking dish. l,/3 shot sugar syrup (or tbs. sugar) Second layer: l/l qhor f'esh <queez-d lrne or lenor jrice Olives, raislns and slices of hard boiled egg. I shot egg white (optlonal) Third layer: Cooked and shredded boneless chicken. Shoke vigorously v./ith ice then strdin into gloss Top layeri SprinUe with a dosh of bitters lYash corn (preferably fresh) ln a blender with a bit of salt and milk or cream. Cover entlre casserole. Then cover this top layer with sugar, & which will carame when baking. 'ze /* Bake 20-40 minutes ot 350o untilheoted thtough and top is corcmelized. +{r & I had so much to earn - and not enough time. JesLrit mlssionar es brolrght vines from their European homelands Guillermo lYu6oz is an award winning chef at what may be the most in the mid 500s to produce wine for lYass. Spanish immigrants exquisite restaurant in a I of sou!hern Chile. LatitLrde 42, ocated on fo Lowed su t, generation to generat on. ln the 1830s, sorne 60 the shores of Lake L anquihue, in the shadow of the Osorno Vo cano. varletles were lmported from France, a though it was not unt 85 | lYuioz sees the gastronomy of Chile as a mirror of the cultura and that the first commercial Chilean wlnery was established. While the polltical expansion under-way in his couniry: Our cuisine is evolving ... p ague of phylloxera (nasty aph d like insects lhat attacl< the roots of find ng its essence and identiry. He delights ln integratlng fresh herbs grape vines) shortly thereafter destroyed man/ of the vlneyards of and sp ces. distinct ve seafood, and unique fruits and vegetables w th Europe, the grapes of Chile flourished. Today, Chile remalns lhe only rradlriona dishes. Our cu sine refects the lnfluences of rhe German, major wine-producing country in the wor d that is free of phylloxera, French and Span sh peop e, but is not comp ete w thout rhe and that does not use herbicides and poisons for disease and cuisine of our indigenous peoples, the Aymaras lfrom pest control. Thus, much of Chilean wine is naturally rl. \e o r\^ Y.p -he. [-er ra ]. Fe Ona. [,out\] organic. Chile, whi e contiguous to other countr es, and the Rapa Nui lthe is ands]." he e aborates- has a geography !hat offers rhe protections of "OJrsI a meslTo cL5rre. \/l enlYrio? s an lsland - the Altacama desert, the Paclfic, cool<ing for you. however. his goal is simp e: the Andes and the Antarctic. These natura ''To make happy every person at the tab e. lf barriers, along wi[h rigorous import contro]s, rhe collect ve gasp from a lable of l0 ar rhe protect Chilean w ne today. flrst tas[e of a toasted rosemary sorbet (unlrke The arge scale export of wine is quite anyth ng 'd ever tasted) s a sign of happ ness, recent for Ch e. ndeed, only 20 years ago lYuiroz meets his goa. there were few expor!s, while today Ch ean For more ordinary fare, lfound schopefids w nes are internationa y apprecialed. In mere (serving hefty sandw ches and beer), ponoder;os decades, wine production was transformed fTom (bakeries with breads, e aboralely decorared sr"ll or"l ,r'.7a d. r, rgodwoodet <asl . cakes and sweets) and morisquerios (often ocated to collectives and corporate wine operations Lrsing ins de fsh markers). Every town has its Picadas with p/otos stainless'steel vats and French oak casks a ong with (rr .rtd (o,p. de drd. ple'o I o-'se d:, n "2;q 1511"6 erLree dramaric changes in techno ogy. Today, Chiie expons wine to more dessert, drinl<) from about 2,100 3.500 pesos ($4.20-7.00). Vendors chan 90 countrles on fve continents- \ /lth over 430 million ters opo, rdo b.,e.a.^.e'..toD. ldwL rgr(e L'ad'r bar..'od.-. shipped last year, Japan received approximately 3%. sandwlches and sweets. The one disappointment? Chiean co{fee. It is not just in quantlty. but in qua ty that Ch ean wine has become 1",) pld!-, r.t"rL'. t\e"orm.,Ll-o rgr lotel " d-p,ale an nternatona presence. lYany Chllean winerles from large-scale restaurants are learnlng to brew. Stick to tea. corporate operations. to sma er fami /-owned vloeyards have won Afnal confessioni lstarted aloveaffairwith Chilean cecream. ltis rnlernalional compelitions and medals for the r vlntages. so rich, fresh - and cheap. The best flavors were the ones of which What makes Chile so ideal for vlneyards? Overa , factors such as 'd never heard: chirimoyc (a custard apple. very unusua, echoes of the Humbo dt oceanic current generating coo w nds, lhe relalive papaya, banana and pineapp e) or luclmo (an eggfrLrit wi!h overtones absence of summer raln, the ce me t and fresh air from the Andes, of caramel). Then there was this bitter darl<'chocolate with bits of and extreme differences in day-to n ght temperatures (as much as orange that lingered. artor rc irr.: P! go r .f C.frh: y -... W ir. ;/ i P rlr. TIME FOR WINE ',..::r But enough aboLrt the food. t's dme for w ne. And if the heart of Chile is in ts food, the soLri s in ts wine. ,r.!..-. .:-.ir tr e5..Lrr o r !.!.1 !:. .! a tl tr i i.,.ii. 4.5!. i. ]i,Ll, ilii)j.r':\ / 5 \ .o .offio. o0 r g.dp- Lo ,p o , i . gainlng depth and intensity. BLrt to ach eve truly except ona w nes, the searet is terroi (French for the so . topograph/ and c iniate that contribure to a w ne s E+rl O1)ti.t; character). Wh ie mcst crops thrive on rch oamy so . ample t 'pd or o.rorr -6:d. 6r'De aL-.e. n ! dtoo o "\.p\r,.d Empanada de Pino: Turnover stLJffed wth diced beel gfapes are different. The best grapes co ne lrom v nes tl'rat have on ons, raisins. hard-boiled egg and an o ive (watch out for the survived sandy or.oc</ sol . mininra ra n fgorols pr!nifg, wlah ow pir). Empanadas can have almost any fi ling, fronr hanr and cheese /ield. \ ,/lnemal<ers have d scovered, ard co-rt nLre to discover, LerroiTS to a rrendy spinach, goa! cheese and roasled red peppers. n Lr.rexpected va eys of Chi e tiat are ldeal fof p;rricu ar vaiieries. The Cenrral Ret on an! Ma po Valiey s, perhaps, best <nov,,r ior Pastel de Choclo: A C^r1""^ S.eol-- d Dra. -p a, rp-./ premru n r_eds.
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