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-tI 7;,\.'+ ! .: r r ! fr I r I t r lt ! t t I tf I { I 3 -, +r. {* CUSINE &WII{E 3' 5.l5AN iil!,,i.lS I have a thing for cemeteries, and I visit them wherever I travel. They tell us a lot about the and histo4, of a people and place. It was on a morning stroll through the Cementario de Disidentes in Valparaiso, reading headstones from the late rSoos * Mr"rrphy, Werkmeister, Hagnauer, Ffe, Tornquist, MacAuliffe, Rivera, Astaburnago, Morales, - $'hen I began to appreciate the origins of Chiiean .

Chie is a colrno-l mo deC by immigranas as rnu.li a5 b/ its lsf w rh fresh spinach and alnrr:,nd . ba

First layer: The signoture drink of , offered ot every social evenL Brown ground (beef, pori<, or a combination) with chopped I shot Pisco Brandy , gadic, sa t, pepper. Drain. Spread in a deep baking dish. l,/3 shot sugar syrup (or tbs. sugar) Second layer: l/l qhor f'esh

(bakeries with , e aboralely decorared sr"ll or"l ,r'.7a d. r, rgodwoodet

artor rc irr.: P! go r .f C.frh: y -... W ir. ;/ i P rlr. TIME FOR WINE ',..::r But enough aboLrt the food. t's dme for w ne. And if the heart of Chile is in ts food, the soLri s in ts wine. ,r.!..-. .:-.ir tr e5..Lrr o r !.!.1 !:. .! a tl tr i i.,.ii. 4.5!. i.

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.o .offio. o0 r g.dp- Lo ,p o , i . gainlng depth and intensity. BLrt to ach eve truly except ona w nes, the searet is terroi (French for the so . topograph/ and c iniate that contribure to a w ne s E+rl O1)ti.t; character). Wh ie mcst crops thrive on rch oamy so . ample t 'pd or o.rorr -6:d. 6r'De aL-.e. n ! dtoo o "\.p\r,.d de Pino: Turnover stLJffed wth diced beel gfapes are different. The best grapes co ne lrom v nes tl'rat have on ons, raisins. hard-boiled egg and an o ive (watch out for the survived sandy or.ocEmpanadas can have almost any fi ling, fronr hanr and /ield. \ ,/lnemal

premru n r_eds. BL,t other va eys Aconcaqra, Casablafca. Cachnpoa . ! dish with corn and pumpk n. Co chagu.r. B o Bio and more are deve op ng va-et es rarticularly :l . -d -o -1,e,, _ a . Cr- ,l- .j d | .L dr /d..c D.od p Cqzuels. cqldillo, esc&bechado. , psilrr l.er ol. Sh faz, Cabernet Sauvignon, l'lalbec. Plnot No t Rose. mcrincr A I are dist nct ve soLrps and broths. Chardonnay. Sauvignon B anc, Gewurztreminer end the Chilean Papas: Potatoes, the ubiquirous starch, whlch can be served cherished s gfatirre w ne, Cannenere as chuchoca, caloo, molla de popos,mayocan, milcano,milcao, l"ly ast.rght nVaparaso, walked the cobb esro le siTeets nsearch rel/enos. have words for potatoes lil

Congrio; Often translated as conger ee , but rea y a V\rine Suggestions: de ectable. firnr white fsh. juices. . Casab anca S|a. lsabel Estat€ SaLrv gnon B anc, 2005 Jugos: Th ck, fresh squeezed fru t Try domosco . San Pedro SH Notas de Crarda Carmene.e.2002 (aprico!) and mordcuyo (passion fr! t) for a different . UndLrfraga FoLrnders Cc iecr cn Caberner Saur gnon, 2001 Helado: Lce cream, a nationa pass on, often made from the . Casti ero del D ab o Caberner: Salv gnori 2005 fresh fruits of the reg on. igooc val!e) . Marqris de Casa Concia S/rah.2004 Curauto: One of the oldest and most trad t ona of Chilean 6v6 . oo4 dishes. Cool