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N Tallis Final Corrected Thesis UNIVERSITY OF WINCHESTER All the Queen’s Jewels, 1445-1548 Nicola Louise Tallis ORCID Number: 0000-0002-7745-2764 Doctor of Philosophy September 2018 This Thesis has been completed as a requirement for a postgraduate research degree of the University of Winchester. Declaration: No portion of the work referred to in the Thesis has been submitted in support of an application for another degree or qualification of this or any other university or other institute of learning. I confirm that this Thesis is entirely my own work. Copyright: Copyright © [Nicola Louise Tallis] [2018] [All the Queen’s Jewels, 1445-1547] University of Winchester, PhD Thesis, [pp. 1-286], ORCID [0000-0002-7745-2764]. This copy has been supplied on the understanding that it is copyright material and that no quotation from the thesis may be published without proper acknowledgement. Copies (by any process) either in full, or of extracts, may be made only in accordance with instructions given by the author. Details may be obtained from the RKE Centre, University of Winchester. This page must form part of any such copies made. Further copies (by any process) of copies made in accordance with such instructions may not be made without the permission (in writing) of the author. No profit may be made from selling, copying or licensing the author’s work without further agreement. This copy has been supplied on the understanding that it is copyright material and that no quotation from this source may be published without proper acknowledgement. 1 Dedicated to all of my family. 2 Acknowledgements I have been fortunate enough to have studied under the supervision of Dr Elena Woodacre and Dr James Ross, whose expertise have been invaluable. I am immensely grateful to them for all of their insights, enthusiasm and patience. I would also like to thank Professor Michael Hicks for his input in the early stages of the project. Thanks are due to the many scholars and historians who have engaged with me and supported me throughout the course of my research, many of whom I am fortunate enough to call friends. My friends and especially my family have been a tower of strength: my Dad deserves particular thanks, not only for driving me to archives on countless occasions, but also because the idea for this project originated with him. My Mum has been my inspiration, and has had continued faith in my abilities. Finally, thanks to my partner, Matt, for believing in me when I haven’t believed in myself. Without his unwavering support this would never have been possible. 3 Abstract UNIVERSITY OF WINCHESTER ABSTRACT All the Queen’s Jewels, 1445-1548 Nicola Louise Tallis ORCID Number: 0000-0002-7745-2764 Doctor of Philosophy September 2018 The jewellery worn by queens consciously reflected both their gender and their status as the first lady of the realm. Jewels were more than decorative adornments; they were an explicit and unmistakeable display of wealth, majesty and authority. They were often given to queens by those who wished to seek her favour or influence, and were also strongly associated with key moments in their life cycle. These included courtship and marriage, successfully negotiating childbirth (and thus providing dynastic continuity), and their elevation to queenly status or coronation. This thesis will examine the ceremonial and personal jewellery collections of the ten queen consorts of England between 1445-1548. It will investigate the way in which queens acquired jewels, whether via their predecessor, their own commission or through gift giving, as well as the varying contexts in which queens wore jewels. In so doing this thesis will establish what jewels reveal about queens as individuals, their images as consorts, and their relationships with their husbands, household and court. 4 Table of Contents Acknowledgements ....................................................................................................... 3 Abstract ............................................................................................................................. 4 Abbreviations ................................................................................................................. 7 Explanatory Notes ......................................................................................................... 8 List of Illustrations ........................................................................................................ 9 List of Tables ................................................................................................................ 12 Introduction ................................................................................................................. 13 Chapter One: The Wills of the Queens of England, 1445-1548 ................... 37 1.1 Introduction ................................................................................................................... 37 1.2 Margaret of Anjou and Elizabeth Wydeville ........................................................ 42 1.3 Cecily Neville and Margaret Beaufort .................................................................... 46 1.4 Catherine of Aragon, Anna of Cleves, and Kateryn Parr .................................. 50 1.5 Conclusion ....................................................................................................................... 58 Chapter Two: The Jewel Inventories of Jane Seymour, Katherine Howard and Kateryn Parr ........................................................................................................ 60 2.1 Introduction ................................................................................................................... 60 2.2 Content of the Inventories ......................................................................................... 66 2.3 Kateryn’s Parr’s Inventory of Personal Effects, SoA, MS 129, f. 216v-220v .................................................................................................................................................... 69 2.4 Comparative Tables ..................................................................................................... 72 2.5 Analysing the Contents of the Inventories ........................................................... 75 2.6 Materials in the Inventories ...................................................................................... 83 2.7 Description and Design .............................................................................................. 89 2.8 Conclusion ....................................................................................................................... 96 Chapter Three: Portraiture ..................................................................................... 98 3.1 Introduction ................................................................................................................... 98 3.2 The Rise of Portraiture ............................................................................................ 100 3.3 Functions of Portraiture .......................................................................................... 106 3.4 Manuscripts ................................................................................................................. 112 3.5 Medals ........................................................................................................................... 115 3.6 Portraits of Queens ................................................................................................... 116 3.7 Miniatures .................................................................................................................... 130 3.8 Tomb Effigies ............................................................................................................... 135 3.9 Conclusion .................................................................................................................... 137 Chapter Four: The Crown Jewels ......................................................................... 139 4.1 Introduction ................................................................................................................ 139 4.2 Context and Significance of the Crown Jewels ................................................. 142 4.3 Pieces and Regalia ..................................................................................................... 149 4.4 Coronations and Royal Ceremonial ..................................................................... 155 4.5 Conclusion .................................................................................................................... 169 Chapter Five: The Storage of Jewels, the Keeper and the Master of the Jewel House ................................................................................................................ 171 5.1 Introduction ................................................................................................................ 171 5.2 Storage ........................................................................................................................... 171 5.3 The Keeper of the Jewels, Master of the Jewel House and his Staff ........... 177 5 5.4 Conclusion .................................................................................................................... 188 Chapter Six: Goldsmiths and Commissioning Jewels .................................... 190 6.1 Introduction ...............................................................................................................
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