© BILLY BLACK / WWW.BILLYBLACK.COM C DECEMBER 2010NO. 183 CARIBBEAN WELCOME TOTHE

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The Caribbean’sMonthly Look at Sea&Shore MMPASS theirFavoriteDestinations Seasoned CruisersShare P A — See story onpage20 — Seestory S

S On-line DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Ad Sales - Debra Davis ...... 48 Crew! Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Distribution - Bryan Lezama Compass Distribution - Gladys Jones Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected] Martinique: 696 93 26 38 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720 8432. [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Ad Sales & Distribution - Chris Bissondath, spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] Distribution - Eric Bendahan Tel: (599) 553 3850, [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 222-1011, Cell: (868) 347-4890, [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] The Caribbean Sky ...... 38 Sky The Caribbean ...... 39 Cruisers Cooking with ...... 43 Readers’ Forum Mind What’s on My ...... 49 Calendar of Events .....50 Caribbean Market Place ...... Classified Ads 54 ...... 54 Advertisers’ Index But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole ISSN 1605 - 1998 near you! DEPARTMENTS — Richard Rolland Marie Galante II “I cannot wait to pick up your magazine every month.” Seasons’ Greetings to All from the covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, We support free speech! noresponsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts and clarity.responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length this publication,©2010 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Publishing Ltd. except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass is published monthly by welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. Compass Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doyle Sails can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 8 Business Briefs Eco-News...... Caribbean 12 ...... 14 View Doyle’s Deck Regatta News...... 17 ...... 29 Meridian Passage 35 Fun Pages...... 34, ...... 36Dolly’s Deep Secrets Caribbean Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. Caribbean Compass 175 BQ,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. 457-3410 Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected]

JO-ANNE SEWLAL nd the nd .... 40 ...... 36 Eatin’ Local Sampling real Lucian cuisine On Course ...... 32 Island-made self-steering Harbor History U-boats in the Caribbean ! Click Google Map link below to fi www.caribbeancompass.com DECEMBER 2010 • NUMBER 183 DECEMBER 2010 • Flying Ray

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s

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Cruising Iles des Saintes ...... Cruising Iles des Saintes 26 So Heavenly… That’s Just Swell ...... A December phenomenon 7 Hooray, ..Post-storm service provided 11 MICHELLE DANIELS MICHELLE J. WYNNER J. Billy Black’s cover photo says it all: a calm anchorage, islands, palm trees and a walk on the beach at sunset.Billy Black’s cover photo says it all: a calm anchorage, islands, Matau (www.charterworld.com) awaits Elaine Lembo strolls the Tobago Cays shore as charter cat DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 which developedtothesoutheastofEasternCaribbeanduringlastweek plus moreinformationonIslaMargarita,visitwww.wifiguy.co.cc/info.html. for Venezuela. exchange rate)hasbeenimplementedinPorlamar,IslaMargarita,aportofentry &Updates Info

In aburstoflatehurricaneseasonactivity,Invest91,anareadisturbedweather Yacht SectorMainlySparedbyLastHurricaneof2010 For currentVenezuelaninternationalandnationalclear-inclear-outcharges, A newImmigrationfeeof360BsF(currentlyapproximatelyUS$80attheofficial New ImmigrationFeeinMargarita WWW.CCRIF.ORG —Continuedonnextpage from thecapital,Castries,toRodneyBay. November 21stwithasimultaneousflotillasailof50boatsallshapesandsizes Lucia andextendsintotheChristmasholidays.St.markedARC’sstarton the firstweekinDecember.AfullscheduleofactivitieswelcomessailorsSt. November 21standthefastestboatsareexpectedtoarriveinRodneyBayduring more than2,700nauticalmiles.ThefleetdepartedfromtheCanaryIslandson ent typesandlengths.Thejourneytakesbetweentwotothreeweekscovers sailing eventintheworldandregularlyattractsmorethan200boatsofmanydiffer- which SaintLuciaisknownawaitthem,”hesays. women canrestassuredthatthesolidinfrastructureandlegendaryhospitalityfor Marigot Bayarenotonlystate-of-the-art,theyresilient,andyachtsmen 25th AtlanticRallyforCruisers(ARC).“OuryachtingberthsbothinRodneyBayand October, andreadytowelcomethe233yachtsfrom26nationsparticipatingin island’s yachtingfacilitiesremainstrongfollowingthepassageofHurricaneTomasin were 1933,with21storms,and2005,28storms. est yearonrecord,tiedwith1887and1995.Theonlyyearsthatweremoreactive Bahamas andtheTurks&CaicosIslandsbeforefizzlingoutinAtlantic. took asharpright-handturn,andgrazedthewesterntipofHaiti,southeastern anchorage ofAdmiraltyBay,butonlyoneboatwentashore. towards thesouthofchain.TherewereanxiousmomentsinBequia’spopular end uponthebeach. north, causingatleastonechartercatamarananchoredCumberlandBayto Vincent, however,receivedrareonshorewesterlywindsasthestormpassedto owing totheprotectiveeffectofinteriormountains.TheleewardcoastSt. of yachtcharterbasesandanchoragesarelocated,avoidedhurricaneforcewinds ern partofSt.Lucia.)ThesouthernandwesternpartsVincent,whereanumber (See thefollowingnewsitemregardingeffectofHurricaneTomasonnorth- the northernpartofSt.Vincentreceivedsouthernandleading/trailingeyewalls. Soufriere andVieuxFort,waswithinthestrongest,northerneyewallofTomas,while approximately 4:00 through thechannelbetweenWindwardIslandsofSt.VincentandLuciaat sized, andahandfulofsmallervesselseithersankattheirmooringsorwentashore. entrance totheCareenage,aFountainePajotcatonmooringinCarlisleBaycap- Nevertheless, alocaldaychartercatamaranwasdestroyedontherocksat Carlisle Bay,theisland’smainanchorage,strongestwindswerefromeast. Storm withguststohurricaneforce.Fortunatelyforyachtsanchoredormooredin Barbados duringtheearlymorninghoursofOctober30thasanintenseTropical storms todevelopsofarsouth. the lasttenyearshavehadnamedstormsinNovember,itisunusualforlate-season October, wasdesignatedTropicalStormTomasonOctober29th.Althoughsevenof Organized bytheWorldCruisingClub,annualARCislargesttrans-ocean Saint Lucia’sDirectorofYachting,CuthbertDidier,ispleasedtoreportthatthe Saint LuciaSays,“WelcomeAtlanticRallyforCruisers!’ In becomingthe19thnamedstormofseason,Tomasmade2010thirdbusi- Tomas thenproceededintotheCaribbeanSea,causingfloodinginCuraçao, The GrenadinesreceivedTropicalStormforcewinds,highinthenorthandminimal Later thatmorning,thesystembecameaCategory1hurricaneandmoved After takingasharpnorthwardtackduringthenight,Tomastrackedjustsouthof PM . ThesouthernpartofSaintLucia,includingseverelyhit DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 at the Admiral’s Inn, Nelson’s PM , Mollyhawk Eight Bells the 1980s Bequia by yacht during Nearly everyone who visited NORMA PETERS. RODNEY NICHOLSON. New Work at Grenada’s Underwater Art Park Underwater October saw the unveiling of the latest installation at Grenada’s art, culture and spiritualThe new installation, 14 sculptures in all, is based on Amerindian and helped create the yacht charter industry in the Caribbean. He was the founder of the Nicholson Charter Yacht Show, now the Antigua Charter Yacht Meeting, which is having its 50th event next year. Rodney was born on December 19th, 1927 and died on November 7th, 2010. A tribute to his memory will be held on December 8th from 2:30 to 3:30 stole a number of valuable articles. Noel was sentenced to ten years’ imprisonment was sentenced to ten years’ of valuable articles. Noel stole a number convictions, that he had five previous St. Paul, having acknowledged by Justice Lyle all for stealing. Hotel worked at the famous Frangipani Norma Peters, who and ‘90s will remember before internet Yacht Services. In the days and ran the Frangipani from 1974 to 2003 radio and tele- mail, fax, VHF “the Frangi” provided indispensable and cell phones, provided a yachts, and Norma always for both charter and private phone service when communications became a challenge. Norma sympathetic ear and a joke visiting Admiralty Bay over the years. She was born was a friend to countless sailors on October 22nd, 2010, leaving four sons, one daugh- on July 23rd, 1938, and died ter, nine grandchildren and many friends. Rodney Nicholson and his family arrived in English Harbour, Antigua in 1949 aboard the schooner Dockyard, English Harbour, Antigua. folklore and culture through Sculpture Park. The Park showcases Grenada’s history, in 2006 by sculptor Jason sculpture in a unique underwater setting. Since its founding of visitors from around the deCaires Taylor, the park has captivated the imaginations on the island. Coral and world and has become one of the ‘must see’ attractions ever-evolving works of art. other marine life growing on the sculptures make them Clarke, owner of Grenadaworship and is the work of local craftsman Troy Lewis. Howard explains that the sculpturesSeafaris Powerboat Eco-Tours and the sponsor of Troy’s work, by the early Amerindian tribes,are influenced by the petroglyphs (stone carvings) made regions of Grenada. some of which may still be seen in the Duquesne and Pearls —Continued on next page

NICK FARRELL / WORLD CRUISING CLUB

in April 2009, while the yacht S/Y Mary Jean Continued from previous page Continued from Decade Sentence for Grenada Yacht Crime St. George’s, Grenada, Nelon Noel, a 22-year-old unemployed man of Belmont, Eight miles down St. Lucia’s west coast, “Marigot Bay’s reputation as the Eastern Eight miles down St. Lucia’s west coast, “Marigot Bay’s Located on the north side of the island, Rodney Bay Marina sustained no damage Bay Marina sustained north side of the island, Rodney Located on the was anchored near the mangroves in Mt. Hartman Bay. Cruiser Nils Tarberg was was anchored near the mangroves in Mt. Hartman Bay. wife, Alvhild Skorpen, and ashore when the men boarded the boat, tied up Nils’ pleaded guilty to robbery with violence on October 5th. Noel was one of two men pleaded guilty to robbery with violence on October 5th. who robbed the Norwegian catamaran “The marina was packed with yachts seeking shelter and no damage was sustained “The marina was packed with yachts seeking shelter and of the eye of the storm,” despite gusts of up to 92 miles per hour during the passage asserted Hathaway. St. Lucia bound! The start in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria of the 2,700-mile transatlan- St. Lucia bound! The start in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria world’s most popular pas- tic ARC 2010. This year marks the 25th running of the sage-making event by its resilience to Caribbean’s best natural hurricane hole was strengthened of The Marina at Marigot Bay. Hurricane Tomas,” reported Bob Hathaway, manager thanks to the mountains and hills that surround its lagoon location. Several boats its lagoon location. Several mountains and hills that surround thanks to the at full occu- for shelter, and it was almost bay came into the marina from the outer The marina experienced 45-mile-per-hour duration of the hurricane. pancy for the storm. any boats because of the damage was sustained to winds, and no — DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Park ofCancún. sculptures ofhumansformingamonumentalartificialreefintheNationalMarine rary sculptureinhistory,‘TheSilentEvolution’,consistsof400permanentlife-size concept toMexico,wheretheworld’slargestunderwatercollectionofcontempo- as wellplantandanimallife. stone carvingstorepresenttheirbeliefinmanygodscontrollingthesunandmoon and measuressomethreefeetinheight.ItisthoughttheAmerindianscreatedthese takes theformofaZemi(astone-carvedidolbelievedtohavesupernaturalpower) — sea life,and‘grow’ Amerindian art.Onceplacedunderwater,theartworkwillattractcoralsandother Howard ClarkeandTroyLewisdisplayasculptureinspiredbyindigenous Meanwhile, JasondeCairesTaylorhasexpandedtheunderwatersculpturepark Created predominantlyfromreinforcedconcrete,oneofthelargestnewpieces Continued frompreviouspage

www.workonaboat.com/.../how-avoid-yacht-crew-scammers-275.html ing apositionbeforeyoudosomeresearchat them inperson.Ifyouarelookingforacrewingjob,don’tansweranye-mailsoffer- and seriouscaptains/agenciesdon’thirepeoplebye-mailwithoutinterviewing pay moneyupfrontforanyreason(e.g.legalfees,visatravelcosts,etcetera) and fromAmazonasaKindlebookfornominalcharge. name. Theguidesarealsoavailablefreeine-bookformfromeBookbyAppleand tive individualsitesaccessedbyputting“cruisingguide.com”afterthecountry Virgintino, fortheDominicanRepublic,HaitiandJamaica,availableattheirrespec- Trinidad. Theguidejoinsthefreecruisingguidesofferedbyauthor,Frank Topics alsoincludeinlandexplorationaswellnavigationalapproachesto the availabilityofyardsandcontractservicesforcruisingboatsinChaguaramas. a cruisingdestination.Itputsspecialemphasisonstorageforhurricaneseasonand hundred-plus-page guidecoversawiderangeoftopicsassociatedwithTrinidadas has beenpublishedandisavailablefreeat line isDecember15th,2010. to maintenance,withUS$1,000inprizemoneyforeachcategory.Theentrydead- recognition andcashawards,”saysBWIPresidentZuzanaProchazka. America, butwantedtoremindoverseaswritersoftheopportunitygainsome US andCanada.“WehavehadregularparticipationbyjournalistsbeyondNorth entries initsannualwritingcontestandistryingtogrowmemberbaseoutsidethe Harbour, Antigua.Don’tmissthespecialChristmasMarketonDecember18th! furniture, giftsandmoreatTheAnchoragejustoutsideNelson’sDockyard,English pages 50through53.Goodtohaveyouwithus! of St.Lucia,andCaribbean-wideSpotlessStainless,allintheMarketPlacesection, Marina ofAntigua,OnDeckPalmHavenHotelSt.Lucia,RyteWelding 17; plusCaribeCompositeofSt.Maarten,GoldenTasteLucia,JollyHarbour Mount GayRumofBarbados,page16;andCaribbean-wideSeaHawkPaints, Supplies ofSt.Lucia,page38;Blanchard’sCustomsServices39; Visit or practicalinformationtotheirevaluations. ranked accordingtoprice,safetyandhospitality.Sailorscanalsoaddacomment vice alreadylistsmorethanathousandmarinas,includingmanyintheCaribbean, Available inEnglish,FrenchandSpanish,soonGermanItalian,thisser- World, aEuropeanoffshoresailors’associationwithmorethan9,700members. • CREWSCAMCHECK!Legitimateyachtcrewjoboffersgenerallywon’taskyouto • FREETRINIDADGUIDEON-LINE.Thefirsteditionofthe The 18thAnnualBWIWritingContesthas17categoriesrangingfromtravelbyboat The US-basedassociationBoatingWritersInternationalisseekingmoreinternational Act Fast:BoatingWriters’Contest In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! Every Saturdayfrom9:00 Flea MarketinAntigua • AWORLDWIDEMARINAGUIDE,basedonusers’evaluations,isofferedbySailThe Cruisers’ Site-ings www.stw.fr/marina_stw_uk/affichage_marina_pays.cfm Caribbean Compass AM to midday there is now a market for clothing, crafts, food, tomiddaythereisnowamarketforclothing,crafts,food, For moreinformationvisitwww.bwi.org. we welcome new advertisers A1 Island Marine wewelcomenewadvertisersA1IslandMarine www.trinidadcruisingguide.com Cruising GuidetoTrinidad See adonpage29. . . . The

DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 Above: At Crown Point, Store Bay, Above: At Crown Point, Store in late December 2009 up, but the anchorage Left: The swell was kicking remained tenable normal, Below: Crown Point back to New Year’s Day 2010 Caption A Family of Generators with Relatives throughout the Caribbean As Eli Fuller explains on his Adventure Antigua blog, ground swells in the Caribbean are generally generated ground swells in the Caribbean are generally generated by storms far away. We can have no wind and beauti- fully sunny skies, yet with huge waves pounding the shores. This is especially the case in the winter, when huge cold fronts push off the East Coast of North America. Whenever we see super-cold, nasty condi- tions on the East Coast we can usually expect ground swells hitting the Caribbean a few days later. Eli rec- ommends checking www.windguru.cz/int/ for wind and wave predictions. ers. Yachts anchored off in deeper water were okay. Reliability.Reliability. Durability. Durability. Simplicity. Simplicity. www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com

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by J. Wynner A Swell Day at Store Bay Store at Day A Swell Marine Maintenance Svcs: 284-494-3494 Parts & Power: 284-494-2830 Antigua: Marine Power Svcs: 268-460-1850 Svcs: Seagull Yacht 268-460-3049 Bequia: Caribbean Diesel: 784-457-3114 Dominica: Dominica Marine Center: 767-448-2705 Grenada: Grenada Marine: 473-443-1667 Enza Marine: 473-439-2049 Martinique: Inboard Diesel Svcs: 596-596-787-196 St. Croix: St. Croix Marine: 340-773-0289 St. John: Coral Bay Marine: 340-776-6665 St. Lucia: Martinek: 758-450-0552 St. Maarten: Electec: 599-544-2051 St. Thomas: All Points Marine: 340-775-9912 & Tobago: Trinidad Co. Ltd: Engine Tech 868-667-7158 Dockyard Electrics: 868-634-4272 Tortola: Cay Electronics: 284-494-2400 The usually placid sea at Store Bay, Tobago, is at its worst come December, and last year was no exception. The ground swells just kept rolling in, forcing the beach to be locked down for the entire last week of 2009. Nearby Sandy Point was not as rough. These photos, taken over a period of four days, capture both the fury and the beauty of nature during this time. If you look beyond the swells, you will see how calm the water remained in the open bay. However, the waves with their frothy blast, some churning the sand at water’s edge, others mounting the rocky shoreline, tell another story... one of disappointment for picnickers, sea- and sunbath- DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 —Continuedonnextpage here andstayed. Sandra PreisigofFidelProductionsinCarriacou. Bothartistsaresailorsthatlanded protecting fragilemarinelife.Thedesigns arebyLiloNidoofArtFabrikand locally printedTurtleT-Shirts.Theturtlewas chosenasasymboloftheimportance shoreside accommodationsarealsoavailable. come you.Ifyouneedanightashoreorwhenlandlubbersarevisiting,delightful your enjoyment. Caribbean music.Therearethreefull-sizepooltablesandafoosballtabletofurther Doolittle’s Restaurantgetslivelyandfunafterdinnerwithdancingtosweet entertainment (includingcrabracing)onaregularbasisinthewinterseason, beers, housewinesandspiritsincludingthecocktailofnight.Enjoylive on Saturdays’barbecuenight. Marigot BeachClub,St.Lucia David Shimeldlooksforwardtogreetingyouat nightly specialstocomplementanextensive Executive ChefWayneWilliams.Doolittle’sservesbreakfast,lunchanddinnerwith Only freshproduceandherbsareuseddailyhavebeenhandselectedby arguably thebestfusionofFrench/Caribbeaninternationalcuisinesinregion. seats 80personsandhasfaithfullyservedyachtsmenwomenfor30yearswith tiful bayintheCaribbean”.TheeponymousDoolittle’sRestaurantlocatedhere Marigot Bay,whichwasoncedescribedbyJamesA.Micheneras“Themostbeau- Sea ShellRestaurant. less experience. sister isleasmoothandpain- receiving ofproductsinthe and maketheordering seek outpotentialcustomers Tobago Agentwillactively Budget Marine’snew store inChaguaramas, personal visitstotheTrinidad of Tobagoniansmakeregular and Tobago.Whileanumber of goodsbetweenTrinidad islands facilitateeasytransfer regular flightsbetweenthe Tobago. Thefastferryand ments andsailingregattasin been involvedinthemarketingandorganizationofanumberfishingtourna- for BudgetMarineTrinidad.DaniellaisnostrangertotheT&Tboatingsceneandhas Feedback wasextremelypositive. speaking upaboutcustomerserviceissuesandchallengesthataffectedthem. gent fromthehospitalitysector.Thesessionswereveryinteractive,withparticipants nical andmanufacturingservicesretailstores,therewasalargecontin- tomer serviceandhowtoachieveit.Attendeesincludedstaffmembersfromtech- from 14Chaguaramascompaniestookafreshlookattheimportanceofgoodcus- of anexcellentvideo,aPowerPointpresentationandrole-playing,47participants were presentedbytheChaguaramasBusinessCommunityinTrinidad.Withuse In theboutiqueofArtFabrikonYoungStreet inSt.George’s,Grenadayoucanfind Turtle T-ShirtsatArtFabrik,Grenada For moreinformationseeadonpage39. Just openingisthenewSeaShellRestaurant.Seating40persons,asname Happy hoursfrom5:00to7:00 The 1967musicalfilm“DoctorDoolittle”,starringRexHarrison,wasfilmedin Marigot BeachClub,St.LuciaishometoDoolittle’sRestaurantand St. Lucia’sMarigotBeachClubWelcomesYou! For moreinformationonBudgetMarineseeadpage2. Daniella canbecontactedat(868)[email protected]. Daniella RodriguezJacelonofTobagoMarineSuppliesisnowtheAgent New TobagoAgentforBudgetMarineTrinidad Ruth Lundreports:OnSeptember21stand28thtwoCustomerAwarenessSessions Chaguaramas PersonnelHighlightCustomerService BUSINESS BRIEFS PM aregenerouswithtwoforthepriceofoneon à lacarte pool, beachchairs,watersports, beach, freshwaterswimming VHF channel16.Comeenjoythe will pickyouup—justcallon ( Marigot BeachClub’sfreeferry moorings intheinnerbay. free intheouterbayorpickup Beach Club.Youmayanchor your portsideandseeMarigot St. Lucia. pletely seafoodrestaurantin implies itwillbetheonlycom- Shimeld willbetheretowel- Doolittle’s —proprietorDavid business centreandfreeWiFiat Liquid Sunshine Entering MarigotBay,lookto menu,withanexception ) ortheirdinghy DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9

Saturday 09.00 - 13.00 for an inexpensive Chandlery for an inexpensive On Curaçao there was a need On Curaçao there Open Monday - Friday 08.30 - 17.30 Open Monday - Friday 08.30 - 17.30 That is how ABC MARINE was born. ABC MARINE was That is how without compromising quality and service. without compromising quality and ALL YOU NEED FOR BOATING & FISHING YOU NEED FOR BOATING ALL Ph (+5999) 461 4476 Fax (+5999) 461 4925 Ph (+5999) 461 4476 Fax (+5999) Caracasbaaiweg 158 - Curaçao - Neth. Antilles - Neth. Caracasbaaiweg 158 - Curaçao [email protected] www.abcboatsnv.com [email protected] friends!” Compass , have been released and Ann Marie Martin, Janetta Miller, Paul Deeth,

, at 289 feet, is the largest entry to date and is Maltese Falcon Red Sea Run: Two Sailors in a Sea of Trouble Continued from previous page Continued from By showcasing such a world-class event at the start of the new season, the organiz- For more information visit www.antiguayachtshow.com. The spectacular If you can’t easily buy a print copy and don’t have a Kindle either, you can down- If you can’t easily buy a print copy and don’t have a For more information visit http://fattygoodlander.com. Antigua Ready for Bumper Charter Show berths in Falmouth and With 125 yachts registered by early November, dedicated For more information see ad in Market Place section, pages 50 through 53. For more information see ad Marigot Bay Marina New PR Head at St. Lucia’s for Marketing & Public From November 12th, Ursia Girard took up the responsibility Ursia can be reached at [email protected]. Yachtmaster Summer School in Grenada the RYA YachtmasterRoyal Yachting Association (RYA) qualifications, in particular Browne, who received The students from St Vincent were Greg Allan and Seymour For more information contact [email protected]. The Fig Tree Restaurant Opens in Bequia on the south shore of Located next to Mac’s Pizzeria on the Belmont Walkway For more information phone (784) 457-3008. Get Fat! and Kindle editions of his Captain Fatty Goodlander announces that both the print Lilo’s design is a print of her hand-painted a print of her hand-painted Lilo’s design is Fidel Productions have dif- The T-shirts from old keys at You can also “upcycle” your a video for Art Fabrik has also produced to our loyal customers and our Art Fabrik says, “Merry Christmas joined by a further six yachts exceeding 200 feet in length. With an almost equal proportion of both motor and sailing yachts varying in size from 42 to almost 300 feet, the agents and brokers will need every minute of the six-day show to view and assess each entry in detail. To maintain the highest of professional standards and security and to enable the entrants to best showcase their yachts, this is an invita- tion-only event. ers encourage many yachts to choose to make Antigua their homeport throughout the rest of the season and enjoy events such as the Superyacht Cup, the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta and Antigua Sailing Week. are currently available on Amazon.com. With one-day shipping, you can have the are currently available on Amazon.com. With one-day a Kindle owner, it will take book in your hands within 48 hours. Of course, if you’re less than 60 seconds. Windows PC, and (once load a free Kindle READER (piece of software) to your that interface. you’ve signed up with Amazon) buy the book through attending the 49th English Harbour marinas are already fully booked by yachts Antigua Charter Yacht Show to be held between December 6th and 11th. With such a formidable entry list of world class-charter yachts already registered, profes- sional charter brokers from yacht charter houses worldwide and some of the biggest names in yachting journalism will be jetting in. Relations for The Marina at Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, from outgoing Marketing & PR Relations for The Marina at Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, from their new endeavors. head, Hannah Forde. We wish them both all the best in are recognizedOffshore and Yachtmaster Ocean Certificates of Competence, its third combined Coastalaround the world. Grenada Bluewater Sailing recently held started off with theSkipper and Yachtmaster course. Alex Johnstone, the principal, VHF day courses, and thenten-day Theory Course, added on the First Aid and SRC flew in as the externalheld a four-day Yachtmaster preparation. Philip Martinson all students passed.Yachtmaster examiner, and after two days of examination Gateway, and from funding from the Centre for Enterprise Development-Business his Day Skipper exam, TMM yacht charters. Shawn Ford from Grenada, who passed from Turbulence sail loft, was sponsored by his employers Omniun Ltd. Roman Szyjan Grenada, passed his Yachtmaster exam. lunch and dinner. If you loved Admiralty Bay, The Fig Tree is now open for breakfast, Bookshop, you’ll love her sea- Cheryl Johnson’s Sweety Bird Café behind the Bequia side Fig Tree! new book, batik artwork “The Green Sea Turtle”. Its batik artwork below is: “Protect the message printed home”. The T-shirts are planet, it’s our Sizes run from children’s 100-percent cotton. adults’ XL. small through turtles, dolphins, whales and ferent designs: scenes, also on 100-percent whimsical local and children. cotton T-shirts for women, men in a drawer Art Fabrik! Do you have a box overflowing or a ziplock bag in the bilge, of your locks? with keys that don’t fit any long story of their Those keys that each tell a home and feel life, and they will find a new will use them in important again. Art Fabrik artwear their art pieces and functional your keys in made in Grenada. Drop off their arty, unique boutique. climate the worldwide campaign for or www. change solutions; go to 350.org see it. It was a fun and exciting event that put an inter- youtube.com/artfabrik1 to national spotlight on Grenada. — The ‘behind the scenes’ team includes Afsaneh Franklin, Sarah Sebastian and Festus Isaac (not shown) DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11

DECEMBER AUCKLAND, APRIL , BRISBANE MAY MARCH ST. THOMAS, ST. , , Above and left: The tour cat served Soufriere after flooding and landslides made roads to the seaside town impassable TOULON PAPEETE PAPEETE NEWPORT

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DYT USA DYT Newport WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM • 1 888 SHIP DYT WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM DYT Martinique ST. THOMAS ST. Flying Ray Matthew Render, General Manager of Duty Free Shoppers, a retail company here, Free Shoppers, a retail General Manager of Duty Matthew Render, in the country A lot of the businesses they are doing is very noble. “I think what transported doctors with medical supplies and accom- St. Lucian Wave Riders also boat and airplane companies provided similar After Hurricane Tomas, other MARTINIQUE it was in Castries to pick up tourists who were departing St. Lucia through Hewanorrawere departing St. Lucia through to pick up tourists who it was in Castries in the days after Tomas. Airport, which had been closed International conducts business on both ends of the island and makes the Castries-Vieux Fort island and makes the Castries-Vieux on both ends of the conducts business the assistance of company for coming to as daily. He commended the drive as often on the opposite otherwise been stranded himself) who would have persons (including end of the island. Riders is putting but St. Lucian Wave to conduct business as normal, are continuing needed service.” on hold to provide this their own business work in the community of Soufriere since modated persons doing humanitarian and took a hands-on approach to this responsive Tomas struck. The management the in the passing of Tomas, being on hand to receive almost impromptu schedule its efficiency. Surely this response to the natural disas- boat at the docks to ensure restoration process as St. Lucia continues to get back ter played a major part in the on her feet. St. Lucia Wave Riders were highlighted for their combi- transportation services but and responding expeditiously during St. Lucia’s nation of affordability, efficiency recovery period. — SP Top left: lifeline between the north and south of St. Lucia PORT EVERGLADES PORT then

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Y PHotos by Onne van der Wal der van Onne by PHotos The boat, “We put our focus in getting people to see their families in the areas of Soufriere and“We put our focus in getting people to see their families That was when St. Lucian Wave Riders, a boating operation here, sailed in, provid- That was when St. Lucian Wave Riders, a boating operation Prior to the hurricane the regular schedule for had passed, the regularHowever, on Tuesday, November 2nd, after the hurricane Whether the destruction was witnessed firsthand or footage and photos were seen, witnessed firsthand or footage and photos were seen, Whether the destruction was In the aftermath of Hurricane Tomas, as concerned St. Lucia residents remained Tomas, as concerned St. Lucia residents remained In the aftermath of Hurricane by Shayne Perri Shayne by After Hurricane Tomas Hurricane After St. Lucia: dawn for the south, made a stop in Soufriere (EC$30) and then Vieux Fort (EC$35).dawn for the south, made a stop in Soufriere (EC$30) back up north. By midmorningIt then turned around, stopped in Soufriere and sailed Vieux Fort to see what help they can give down there. Our objective was not one of mak- Vieux Fort to see what help they can give down there. Our trying to get to and froming money on this at all, but one of transportation of people, Wave Riders explained.the villages,” Janice Suite, General Manager of St. Lucian ing an alternative option of accessing Soufriere and Vieux Fort. So what convinced ing an alternative option of accessing Soufriere and Vieux process? The decision the management to get the company involved in the recovery heard concerned callers was made when the management of St. Lucian Wave Riders who could not be reached on local radio stations enquiring about friends and family via the telephone. for concerned personsschedule was suspended to accommodate a new schedule wishing to go Soufriere and Vieux Fort. The the damage left as a result of the hurricane was unanimously described as “the worst the damage left as a result of the hurricane was unanimously October 30th through Sunday in St. Lucia’s history”. Hurricane Tomas, on Saturday resulting in the disruption October 31st, cut a path of destruction across St. Lucia, across St. Lucia cut of the road network. The impassible roadways left communities were inaccessible were the off from the rest of the island. Two of the major ones that Pitons and the world’s only southern towns of scenic, touristy Soufriere (home of the International Airport drive-in volcano) and industrial Vieux Fort, (where Hewanorra hit by the natural disaster. is located) as they were among the communities hardest virtually impossible by land; Getting from the north of the island to the south was the only feasible way was by sea! for transporting a large group capacity of up to 100 passengers, which is convenient on a single trip. day-long tours (predominantlytravels up the east coast back to Rodney Bay. Both and include breakfast andpatronized by tourists), set sail from the Rodney Bay Marina Riders crew. lunch on board the boat prepared by the St. Lucian Wave glued to their transistor radios to keep informed of the latest developments, one to keep informed of the latest developments, glued to their transistor radios that was broadcast was that a local boating tour vessel memorable announcement option for a fraction of the usual cost of their tours. would become a transportation Martinique Splendor Tour (US$230), which sails to Fort-de-France where patrons haveMartinique Splendor Tour (US$230), which sails to Fort-de-France is also the Circumnavigate St.an opportunity to enjoy shopping and beaches. There a stop at a waterfall inLucia Tour (US$175), which goes around the island making for lunch and then visitingCanaries on the west coast, continuing down to the Pitons and snorkel. a bay in Vieux Fort where guests have a chance to swim DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 ronmental concerns in the different Caribbean countries, ronmental concernsinthedifferentCaribbeancountries, Karipanou willdocumentandshareinformationonenvi- Change (IPCC)reportonclimatechange,saysthat author oftheInter-governmentalPanelonClimate happen inCaribbeannaturalresourcesmanagement. a sharedvisionandvaluesaboutwhattheywanttosee Barbados. Thethreeorganizationsfoundthattheyhave from theUniversityofWestIndiesinCaveHill, Management andEnvironmentalStudies(CERMES) quartered inHaiti;andtheCentreforResource Trinidad &Tobago;PanosCaribbean,whichishead- Caribbean NaturalResourcesInstitute(CANARI)from Jamaica onOctober8th. The KaripanoualliancewaslaunchedinMontegoBay, meaning “Caribbean”,and“panou”,“ours”. derived fromtheHaitianCreolewords“Karayib”, of thenaturalresourcesinregion.“Karipanou”is Caribbean peopleinthegovernanceandmanagement Dominica wasthesettingforKaripanou’sfirstactivity The SoufriereScott’sHeadMarineReservein Caribbean. Karipanouwascreatedtoengagemore formed tosupportenvironmentalsustainabilityinthe Karipanou (OurCaribbean)isthenewestalliance ECO CARIBBEAN Leonard Nurse,SeniorLectureratCERMESandco- Three organizationscomprisethenewalliance: Dawn MarieRoperofPanosCaribbeanreports: New EnvironmentalAllianceLaunched -NEWS western PacificOceans.Varioushypotheseshavebeen tans ings fromtheSoufriereScott’sHeadMarineReserve. were inDominicaJulytovalidatetheresearchfind- efforts. RepresentativesoftheKaripanoualliance will besupportingtheDominicanfishermenintheir port toimplementanewmanagementplan.Karipanou resources inDominica.Thefishermenalsoneedsup- cies inthelawsandproceduresthatgovernmarine marine resources.Theyhaveuncoveredinconsisten- lessons fromthefisherfolk’seffortstomanagetheir ing andmakingaliving.CERMESisdocumentingthe nized themselvestofindabalancebetweenoverfish- the SoufriereScott’sHeadMarineReservehaveorga- been working. adaptation toclimatechange.Thealliancehasalready natural resources,variousstakeholders,povertyand how naturalresourcesshouldbemanaged.” ultimately buildconsensusoncomplexdecisionsabout to shareideasandlisteneachotherwithrespect, ple fromallsectorsandacrosscountries.Wehelpthem in facilitatingparticipatoryprocessesthatconnectpeo- Caribbean. Shesaid,“CANARIhasparticularstrengths participatory naturalresourcegovernanceinthe tate amore“programmatic”andlong-termapproachto of short-termproject-driveninterventions.Itwillfacili- that Karipanouismovingawayfromthelimitations Dutch- andSpanish-speakingislands. independent anddependentEnglish-,French-,Creole-, graphic focusistheCaribbeanislands,including and replicatelessonslearned.Karipanou’sinitialgeo- Fundación LaTortugareports:Lionfish( Lionfish SpreadtoVenezuela The firstactivitybeganinDominica.Fisherfolkfrom Karipanou focusesontherelationshipsbetween Nicole Leotaud,ExecutiveDirectorofCANARI,noted ) arevenomouscoralreeffishfromtheIndianand Pterois voli- —Continuedonnextpage vival challengesovertheirlifetimes. are indangerofextinctionandtheyfacemanysur- tact informationbelow).Hecommented,“Seaturtles the park’sMarineBiologist,OlandoHarvey(seecon- they traveltofeedandnestinothercountries. will beonthelookoutfornewlytaggedturtlesas tries acrosstheCaribbean,SouthandCentralAmerica porters), WIDECASTscientistsinmorethan40coun- turtles havebeennamedafterlocalfriendsandsup- vidual numbersforeachturtle(andinsomecasesthe especially tofeedintheTobagoCaysMarinePark. Central America,theDutchAntillesorPuertoRico park’s seaturtlesmighttravelfromasfarafield nesting areas.Beinghighlymigratoryanimals,the Sea andbeyond,visitingspecificfeeding,mating feeding onitsprotectedseagrassandcoralreefs.” snorkeling amongthem,turtlescanbeseeninthepark for seaturtles.Asvisitorstotheparkwillknowfrom Tobago CaysMarineParkisanimportantfeedingarea found asmallernumberofhawksbillturtles.The the turtlestaggedsofarareGreenturtles,andwe’ve subject ofsuchintenseresearch. located intheheartofGrenadines,havebeen This isthefirsttimethatseaturtlesinthispark, the WiderCaribbeanSeaTurtleConservationNetwork. park rangerswhoareworkingtogetherwithWIDECAST, sea turtlesbeingmeasured,weighedandtaggedbythe Cays MarineParkwascarriedoutinOctober,withthe the OceanographicInstituteofVenezuela. been preservedintheLaboratoryofIchthyoplankton fin projectionsof2cmand10.5cmpelvicfins.Ithas with atotallengthof7.5cm,bodyheight2cm,dorsal Josefina Hernández.Thespecimenisapparentlyyoung, project ledbyprofessorsBaumarMarínandMaría was capturedduringthedevelopmentofascientific Institute ofVenezuelaatOrienteUniversity,thelionfish Martínez andLuisAlejandroArizafromtheOceanographic Venezuela University,andJoséGregorioNúñez,Alan Reveles andMaríaFernandaGonzálezfromtheCentral cies hasbeenobserved. ern extentinthesouthernCaribbeanwherethisspe- popular PuinareBeach.Thisrepresentsthemosteast- on thepatchreefofMorroPelotaisland,infront waters ofMochimaNationalPark,atsixmetresdeep and identifiedthefirstspecimeneverfoundin many otherspeciesoffish. its venomishighlytoxictohumansanditpreyson and recentlyVenezuela.Thishasactivatedanalert,as Jamaica, Mexico,Haiti,Colombia,Aruba,Curaçao, Panama, PuertoRico,theDominicanRepublic, coastal areasofCaribbeancountriesincludingCuba, from onecontinenttotheother. waters whichcantransferlarvaeofmarinespecies ium inFlorida,andtothedischargeofships’ballast related totheescapeofsixspecimensfromanaquar- put forwardabouttheirappearanceintheAtlantic, The publiccanreportsightingsoftaggedturtlesto With metaltagsontheirflippersnowshowingindi- Turtles travelgreatdistancesacrosstheCaribbean WIDECAST representativeEmmaDoylesaid,“Mostof Research andtaggingoftheseaturtlesTobago Turtles TaggedinTobagoCaysMarinePark According todatasuppliedbyAnaTeresaHerrera On September19th,Venezuelanbiologistscaptured Since 1992,thisfishhasbeenobservedindiverse DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 If we want to point our fingers at other people and And a last tip: if an e-mail really is really worth Curious about the original source of an e-mail that the original source of an Curious about Villagers in Ostional, Costa Rica have been portrayed as poachers while carrying out a government sanctioned, if controversial, activity ing a relatively small portion of eggs….” Snopes adds ing a relatively small portion of eggs….” Snopes adds that, “A Sea Turtle Conservancy representative noted that the activity pictured is controversial but legal (Ostional is the only part of Costa Rica where sea turtle egg gathering is allowed), and that investigation to determine its overall effect on the olive ridley popu- lation is ongoing.” cry “shame!” we can surely pick more deserving tar- gets, and we need to check our information before spreading half-truths — the click of a mouse makes it too easy to unwittingly bear false witness. Before passing on any mass circulated e-mail, see www. snopes.com/inboxer/inboxer.asp (they either verify or debunk scores of widely e-mailed stuff — happily, nine-year-old Penny Brown is NOT missing; unfortu- nately, papaya leaves don’t cure dengue fever; and your hands will not become flammable from using hand sanitizer). forwarding, put your list of contacts in the Bcc field. That way you are not generating lists of active e-mail accounts that could possibly be found and used by spammers. Ever wonder why you get so much junk mail? e-mail to everyone on our mailing list. But have we on our mailing list. e-mail to everyone time, one recently for the eighth really? I’ve received, pho- line “World Shame!” containing with the subject poach- Costa Rican citizens allegedly tos of numerous headed by eggs on a beach. It comes ing sea turtle and the plea of moral outrage various expressions widely”. “please distribute on, I checked so many people to pass it has stimulated www. favorite myth-buster website, it out at my detectives, the pho- snopes.com. According to Snopes’ of the activities por- tos are real, but the description photographs do show the trayed is inaccurate: “These turtle eggs in the coastal collection of olive ridley sea but those who are gath- town of Ostional, Coast Rica, [they] are engaged in a ering them are not ‘poachers’… activity, collect- government-sponsored conservation M92B M135 M225Ti Sabre M225Ti ‘Green’ E-Mails? Check Facts Before Forwarding! Sally Erdle reports: Sometimes we feel we’ve done a Errol Flynn Marina is Blue Flag Again Errol Flynn Marina Jamaica’s For the fourth time, Dale Westin reports: Flag Marina” designation, one of only three awarded to Caribbean marinas for the current year. The marina’s Blue Flag programme is monitored by Errol Flynn Marina’s Administrative Manager Christine Downer. The Blue Flag Campaign is an international voluntary certification scheme for beaches and marinas. It has proven to be an effective environmental tool to enhance the health, safety and environmental quality of beaches and marinas and has become a worldwide symbol for beach and marina environmental quality. good deed by forwarding an environmentally oriented Tobago Cays Marine Park contact Olando Harvey on Marine Park contact Olando Tobago Cays Also see or [email protected]. (784) 485-8191 www.widecast.org. coveted “Blue has been awarded the Errol Flynn Marina Call Parts & Power for your nearest dealer: (284) 494 2830 www.partsandpower.com

This large capacity 6 liter engine comes in a compact package and only takes out 225 hp. By comparison, our nearest competition takes that out of a 4 liter engine. Running at a low 2500 rpm will have a longer life (minimum 12,000 hour the M225Ti 3300 rpm or higher, versus the competition’s TBO) and quieter operation. The gear-driven fresh water pump has a longer life and less to go wrong while the waste gate turbo An integral plate-type oil cooler combines fewer hoses charger gives better performance at lower rpms. with longer life and better efficiency. outstanding marinization, excess hoses and belts have been engineered away and With Perkins’ everything has easy access for stress-free maintenance. The Perkins Sabre M225Ti is designed to replace the Perkins more than 22% additionalM200 and M235 and provides available in the same package. horsepower Continued from previous page Continued from For more information about sea turtles and the With follow-up work in future, the rangers will be She adds, “We’ve found turtles with shark-bite WIDECAST is analyzing the findings of the research, analyzing the findings of the WIDECAST is Our mission is to protect the turtles in the park but we to protect the turtles in the Our mission is 22% more (sea) horses able to track how well the turtles are growing over time able to track how well the turtles are growing over time and maybe even help solve the mystery of how long turtles really live. marks, which are completely natural, but we’ve also marks, which are completely natural, but we’ve also found turtles with propeller injuries and with shell damage from collisions with boats. Visitors and boat vendors need to go slowly and respect the five-knot speed limit in the park to help avoid hitting turtles.” tion. Ms. Doyle explained, “We’re on the lookout for an tion. Ms. Doyle explained, “We’re on the lookout for an increasingly seen disease in turtles, called fibropapil- loma, which causes dangerous tumors in their flesh.” Tobago Cays Marine Park Rangers and WIDECAST personnel weighed and tagged sea turtles in the park, Tobago Cays Marine Park Rangers and WIDECAST personnel study growth rates, migration patterns and more including this large Green turtle. Identifying tags help researchers which will also shed light on the health of the popula- shed light on the health which will also also care very much about what happens to them whenmuch about what happens also care very to know more from us. Soon we hope they travel away their lives.” go at different stages in about where they — DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 restrictions. that enthusiasmgoes,itgoes.Istillsnorkel;isaloteasierandtherearefew There aremanyplacesIcouldstilldive,butyouneedenthusiasmtoandwhen age, buttheenthusiasmrotstartedlongago,asaresultofincreasedregulation. not beendivingforpleasureafewyears.Partofthisisbecausemyadvancing it ismucheasiertogoinadiveshop’sboat.Istillcarrytanksaboard,buthave ited numberofreallygooddivesitesareeasilyaccessiblebydinghy,andfortherest I doveabouthalfthetimeonmyownandwithdiveshops.Onlyalim- What isthisbandoingtothetourismindustry? which covermostofthegooddivesitesincountry.Roatanhasdonesame. of theEnglish-speakingEasternCaribbeanislandsnowbanindependentdiving. done withalocaldiveshop.Thebanningofindependentdivingspread.Abouthalf not seenanequalgrowthinthedivingbusiness. are today.Sincethen,theoveralltrendinyachtingindustryhasbeenup.Ihave Dive shopoperatorstellmemanymorepeopleonyachtsweredivingthenthanthey andfortherestitismucheasiertogoinadiveshop’sboat’ ‘Only alimitednumberofreallygooddivesitesareeasilyaccessiblebydinghy, I usedtobeaveryenthusiasticdiver,andstartedwhenyoucoulddiveanywhere. Enthusiasm Rot Most recently,Grenadabannedindependentdivingintheirnewmarineparks, About 16yearsago,someislandgovernmentsstartedrequiringthatalldivingbe When IarrivedintheCaribbean42yearsago,scubadivingwasapopularpastime. HINDERING? HELPING OR Caribbean DivingRegulations:

DECK VIEWFROMTIKANOTBYCHRISDOYLE KAY WILSON / WWW.INDIGODIVE.COM / WILSON KAY any tinylittlethingthatcatchesyoureye. and youcangoatyourownpace,sometimestakingenoughtimetocloselyexamine diving withagroup.Youhaveonlyyourbuddytolookoutfor,youareincharge, a riteofpassage.Anddivingwithjustbuddyisverydifferentexperiencefrom for safety)thefirsttimeisakintoaneophyteairplanepilot’ssoloflight.It can ariseunderwater.Whenyoupassyourexams,divingonown(withabuddy of diving,andpractisealotdivingskills,learninghowtodealwithsituationsthat pursuit. Onceyouhavetriedit,studythephysics,mechanics,andphysiology organizations havedoneagoodjobgettingpeopletotrythisunusualbutwonderful —Continuedonnextpage with superbdivinginwell-runnationalparksthatencourageindependentdiving? come toSt.LuciawhenyoucangotheVirginIslandsandgetexcellentsailingalong Lucia competeswithotherCaribbeanareas.Ifyouareasailorwholikesdiving,why charter companies;nowithasonlyfour.Howcanadivingbanaffectchartering?St. about thetimeindependentdivingwasbanned,St.Luciahadsomesevenyacht- was thelawforwholeisland.InSt.Luciathisbanhadaverydefiniteeffect.At pendent divingstartedintheSoufriereMarineManagementArea(SMMA)andsoon industry eversince. justified atthetime,andDominicahasmanagedasuccessfullow-volumedive islands. Thedecisiontobanindependentdivingasaprotectivemeasureseemed ism dependsonhavinganenvironmentthatismorepristinethanintheother and otherthings.Dominicadoesnothavetheattractionofwhitebeaches;hertour- threatened bydiverswhomtheythoughtwereplunderingtheirreefsforblackcoral though IthinkSt.Kitts&Nevishadalreadydoneso.AtthattimeDominicansfelt does notwork. was oneofthoseplaceswherebeinginagroupwithsomeinexperienceddiversjust the mudwiththeirfinsandvisibilitywasnil—nothinglefttoseebutbrownfog.It other diverscamedown.Withinafewmomentsmanyinthegrouphadstirredup normally seeonareef.Iwashangingmotionless,examiningsomeofthese,whenthe tunicates, sponges,andothercreatures,ratherdifferentfromthecommunitiesyou and foundmyselfalongsideamagnificentwreck.Itwascoveredwithallkindsof the difference.WedoveonawreckinAnseCochon,St.Lucia.Iwentdownquickly my fewbaddiveshaveallbeenwithdiveshops,andIwilldescribeonetoillustrate The desiretospendanhourorsounderwaterisnotinnate.PADIandotherdive When Iwasacharterskippersometimeshadchartererswhowantedtodive. St. Luciawentnext.Iasked,butheardofnoparticularproblems.Thebanoninde- The firstislandnationIrememberbanningindependentdivingwasDominica, Dive BansversusYachting I havehadgreatdivesonmyownandwithdiveshops.But — Continued from previous page try would shrink. They came with their own basic equipment then rented tanks, getting them filled So what about the environmental arguments? The idea, as I have heard it formu- as they went. They did some diving on their own and some diving with dive shops. lated, is this: “It is in the dive shops’ interest to have a healthy marine environment, Had independent diving been banned back then, they never would have chosen to so if we make everyone go with a dive shop they can control all the diving and keep come to the Windwards. the environment in good shape.” To make tourism successful, all the threads need to be pulling. St. Lucia would I am not an anti-regulation free-market diehard; I favor regulations that do protect now have a far more vibrant diving industry if independent diving had not been the environment. I support the banning of spearfishing for visitors because, having banned. Every year some 200 boats come over on the ARC; the combined crew list spearfished myself, I know the effect it has on fish populations, especially on those equals more than a thousand people. A good percentage of these are excellent can- easy-to-shoot “big eyes”. But there is no evidence that independent diving hurts didates to learn how to dive, and I believe many more of them could be persuaded to Caribbean reefs. Diving is not a free-for-all: you have to train, and the training spend time underwater. But what is the point of becoming a certified diver if you are emphasizes diving in an environmentally sound way. Divers are willing to pay user not allowed to dive independently? fees, and in surveys say they would prefer to pay higher user fees for better-con- My enthusiasm for diving took a plunge when Saba banned independent diving. served reefs. The idea that reefs are better protected when people go with dive shops Saba is unusual in that the mooring area and the diving area are together, and the is not supported by any studies that I know of. place to get ashore is some two miles — a long dinghy ride — away. One year, another single-handed sailor and I did a few dives that were easy to reach from our boats. The diving was wonderful and I determined to do more diving on my next visit. I also planned to go with the dive shops on some of the more difficult dives that are in deep water. In the interim, independent diving was banned, my enthu- siasm died, and I left my boat in St. Martin and took a plane to Saba, not doing any diving while there. Some Revealing Figures Now is that just me, or is the diving enthusiasm of others affected the same way? It so happens I was back in Saba some years after the ban was put in place and asked the marine park manager if he had a record of boat arrivals. Accompanying me was Garvis Hassel, my taxi driver. The figures were revealing. They showed a steady increase in boat visitors up to the time of the ban, whereupon there was a 30-percent drop in arrivals. From this lower level the increase resumed at about the same rate. Banning independent diving in this case had a clear and marked effect. Even the park manger was surprised — no one had thought of monitoring the effects of the ban, so the figures had not been reviewed. Garvis said, “The park regulations are hurting my business.” And this is something that is not often considered: diving regulations don’t just affect the marine park and the yachting industry; far more people suffer when business is stifled. I wanted more figures to be sure of my argument, and my prediction was that there would be more growth in the diving industry in islands that do not restrict diving. I tried to get data from PADI, but they refused to release this information, so the only other thing I could do is look at the state of diving today. I included Bonaire because DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 it is a major dive center outside the Eastern Caribbean that has a top quality marine park and encourages independent diving. The only readily available figure is the num- ber of dive shops in each island, which I got from government websites that list diving ‘Diving with just a buddy is a very different experience facilities. Where that was not available, I looked for other websites for the same infor- from diving with a group’ mation. These figures may not be exact, but they should be pretty close. The results are shown in the box. The average number of dive shops on islands that allow inde- pendent diving is 14, compared with five on islands that ban it. There are so many Divers suffer some of the same mistrust from officials that has affected yachting variables that it is hard to draw any meaningful conclusions. However, the fact that regulations over the years. It is unfortunate because it does affect the economy. the British and US Virgin Islands together have around the same number of dive shops Where there are problems caused by divers, they can usually be solved by controlling as St. Lucia, Dominica, St. Kitts & Nevis, Saba, and Statia combined, tells me that access to particular dive sites. In most cases damage can be averted by having a these latter islands could have a far bigger diving industry than they have today. diver pay for an orientation course that allows park rangers or local dive shops to Rationales for Restrictions assess a diver’s abilities and let him or her know what they expect. Such a system So why ban independent diving? The two main reasons given are economic and works well in Bonaire. environmental. Let us start with the economic. The reasoning goes like this: if every- The bottom line is that the most successful Caribbean marine parks, the ones that one is required to dive with a dive shop, all the independent divers will be drawn into win major awards and are rated as our gold standard, including those in Bonaire the dive shops, the dive shops will make more money, and that will be good for the and the Virgin Islands, allow and encourage independent diving. diving industry. I don’t think it works that way. This is not to say diving does not need any controls. Really heavy traffic on one In general, any time you restrict an activity you discourage it. This is why the particular reef can cause stress. Bonaire has been dealing with this problem for years. yachting industry is always fighting to ease regulations; we know how damaging they They run a highly successful park at diving volumes far higher than those in the can be. In the case of the diving industry, the idea that regulations will bring in more Eastern Caribbean. The latest data I could find were for 2008, when some 42,000 divers is faulty. It would work if you started with a captive clientele of divers who divers visited Bonaire, many of whom dove twice a day every day they were there. With need to dive. But there is no captive clientele; divers are free to go wherever they fewer than 20 dive shops, most of the diving is independent; most reefs are accessible want, and if they are serious about diving, they will go to places where they are not from shore and clearly marked. Bonaire keeps “off limit” dive sites where no one but restricted. Rather than gain the independent divers (who were probably diving with park officials can go, so that they can monitor the effects of diving. At these volumes a shop about half the time) you lose most of that group completely. More seriously, it is not surprising that if a reef becomes too popular they do sometimes have to give as diving becomes restricted throughout the area, you start losing divers altogether. it a break and take that site out of the system for a couple of years. Why go through all that training when all you can do afterwards is take a guided There is no reason that those who have opted for a blanket ban could not have underwater tour? I think that these regulations are discouraging diving as a sport, their cake and eat it too. Just open some of the easily accessible dive sites to inde- and new divers are not being recruited, at least not those on visiting yachts. pendent divers. These can be carefully monitored. Then restrict most other sites. What would be the effect on yachting in the Caribbean if we followed the lead of Our hard corals have taken a considerable beating over the last 15 years. This has the diving industry and said: if you want to sail in the Caribbean you cannot come happened on a global scale and is not associated with diving activity. Luckily, it need on your own yacht, you have to charter? In the short term, the charter companies not impact negatively on the diving industry. The reefs’ structures are still providing might do okay. However, everyone else who benefits from the current industry would habitat for fish and other sea creatures, and as long as those are plentiful there will be gone — all the boatyards, chandleries, marine mechanics, sailmakers, marinas, be diving. For this reason I am fully supportive of the idea of marine parks that cre- and more. The Caribbean would be dropped as a destination in yachting magazines, ate sanctuaries for fish. However, I think an easing of diving regulations would help all the publicity that keeps us a popular sailing area would disappear, and there the diving industry, and that the current regulations stifle the synergistic benefit would be no regattas to bring in the crowds. In the long run, even the charter indus- between yachting and diving.

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Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Tel: (758) 452 0299 Fax: (758) 452 0311 e-mail: [email protected] DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 RED CAPTRADITION EARN YOURREDCAPTHISYEAR! OF REGATTA'S ACROSSTHECARIBBEAN. ACROSS THEGLOBEANDAFULLSEASON SPONSORING OVER120SAILINGREGATTAS RED CAPSEASON2011 22 APR 21-25 APR 14-19 APR 28 MAR-3APR 25-27 MAR 2 MAR 12-13 FEB 28 JAN-1FEB 21 JAN ANTIGUA BEQUIA ANTIGUA BVI USVI ST. MAARTEN BVI GRENADA BARBADOS AT THEREEFGARDEN MOUNT GAY RUMREDCAPPARTY 2011 REGATTA 30TH ANNUALBEQUIAEASTER ANTIGUA CLASSICYACHT REGATTA 2011 SAILING FESTIVAL 40TH ANNUALSPRINGREGATTA & ROLEX REGATTA 2011 ST. THOMASINTERNATIONAL AT SOGGY$ MOUNT GAY RUMREDCAPPARTY SWEETHEARTS OFTHECARIBBEAN GRENADA SAILINGFESTIVAL 2011 BARBADOS RACE2011 THE MOUNTGAY RUMROUND (NEW!) DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

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of ablative bottom paints on our catamaran Endeavour Catamaran Corporation Bob Vincent, President . , will defend his 2009 CAMR title against four- Headlining the Open Division, St. Thomas-born Peter Skippers to watch in the Women’s Division At the end of the day, Sam and Rhone tied on the day, Sam and Rhone tied At the end of tro- the SMYC Commodore presented At prizegiving, thanked by master ofSOL, the longtime sponsor, was For more information visit www.smyc.com. World’s Top Skippers for USVI’s Carlos Aguilar Match Race Jewels & Time, the Presented by Ulysse Nardin/Trident and the Virgin Islands The St. Thomas Yacht Club Holmberg, America’s Cup-winning helmsman for Alinghi time America’s Cup veteran, … on next page —Continued Britain’s Lucy MacGregor, 2010 Women’s Match Racing World Champion and currently ranked num- ber two in the ISAF women’s match race standings; the United States’ Sally Barkow, two-time Women’s Match Race World Champion and ninth ranked women match racer; and the USA’s Genny Tulloch, 2008 Women’s Division winner of the CAMR and ranked 12th for their first off-island regatta and the St. Maarten regatta and the St. for their first off-island to future competitions. youth look forward placed Sam in first. points; the tie-breaker bag competitor received a goody phies, and every souvenir of them racing — a great along with a photo went to day. The Sportsmanship Award of a memorable encour- who did his utmost to help and Bart van Vliet day of it. who was having a tough age a fellow sailor their support. Whenceremonies Robbie Ferron for “Why would SOL spon- Robbie asked the young sailors, don’t use fuel but wind?”sor you Opti racers when you young Bart van Vliet,the immediate response from brought the house down. “Because we’re AWESOME!”, (CAMR), an Official World Carlos Aguilar Match Race Match Racing Tour, is Tour Qualifier for the 2011 World through 5th in the natural set to race December 2nd Amalie Harbor, St. Thomas, amphitheater of Charlotte match racers will com- USVI. Some of the world’s best named for the late Carlos pete in IC24s in the regatta racer. Aguilar, an avid sailor and match authorities. Each Sailing Association are the organizing skipper will race with three crew. The Open Division winner receives an invitation to the Stena Match Cup to be held in Sweden next July. Last December, USVI teammates (left to right) Maurice Kurg, America’s Cup-winning helmsman Peter Holmberg, and Morgan Avery thrilled the crowd lining the Charlotte Amalie waterfront for the 2009 Carlos Aguilar Match Race 800.528.0997 U.S.A. Only NEW NAUTICAL COATINGS, INC. NEW NAUTICAL COATINGS, Email: [email protected] ciency. ciency. )NTERNATIONALs&AX 14805 49th Street North, Clearwater, Florida 33762 14805 49th Street North, Clearwater, We guarantee it! Increase your vessel’s speed and fuel effi vessel’s Increase your antifouling of Sea Hawk Choose from a wide range From self-polishing paints with a written guarantee. to bioengineered slime resistant or environmentally for lasting friendly formulas, count on Sea Hawk premium protection. it! Guarantee We Better. It Works are made in the U.S.A. are made in the U.S.A. 6th St. Maarten Optimist Championship: ‘Awesome!’ 6th St. Maarten Simpson Bay Lagoon held a stiff breeze with many The St. Maarten Yacht Club held its sixth annual SOL Yacht Club held its sixth The St. Maarten Young sailors from Anguilla, Tortola and Sint Maarten Young sailors from Anguilla, in the SOL Optimist celebrate their participation the Sint Maarten Regatta 2010 on the deck of Yacht Club Tortola. They took turns finishing first, and dominated every race except one. Hot in pursuit was Alec Scarabelli, the only competitor able to steal a win from either. Giving Alec a run for his money was Saskia Looser, who placed top girl. Bodine Beentjes, sailing her first SOL Championship, seemed at one point to give Saskia a real threat, beating Saskia in the first two races, but mixed results after her initial burst gave Saskia the edge. A battle royal also developed between Ilian Halbertsma and Nathan Smith. Ilian held the edge in the overall standing and Nathan took the class standing. The three sailors from Anguilla did well Gold for age 12 years and older; and Silver for age 11 Gold for age 12 years and older; and Silver for age 11 years and under — with trophies for each class and for overall performance. Sailors from Anguilla and Tortola joined those from St. Maarten. shifts. From the first race it was obvious the champion- ship was not to be a walk in the park for any of the sailors. Battling for top spot were local sailor Rhone Findlay and first-timer to the event, Sam Morrell from St. Maarten Optimist Championship on November 6th, Championship on November St. Maarten Optimist in aged eight to 14 competing with 17 competitors classes — fleet was divided into two nine races. The Delivers a Gripping Performance

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Ard van Aanholt: Curaçao’s Sunfish Ard van Aanholt: Curaçao’s Youth Champ 2010 Youth Sailing Curaçao, which started in 2001, has For more information about Youth Sailing Curaçao During the weekend of October 23rd and 24th, a During the weekend of October at age 16 Eugene Hendrikx, who in September Ard van Aanholt looks back at an impressive 2010

NEWS REGATTA REGATTA A record number of 20 Sunfish sailors raced for the title of Curaçao Youth Sailor 2010 Puerto Rico; And now, gold in Curaçao. Congrats from all junior sailors across the region — you set a great example! begun to show profound results in other classes besides the Optimist. visit www.ysco.org. record number of 20 young sailors fought for the title record number of 20 young A high level of of Youth Sunfish Sailor of Curaçao. six races, with the 2010 competition ran through all With four first places title going to Ard van Aanholt. Ard showed remarkable and two thirds, 16-year-old the wind shifts. This tactics and talent for reading qualifier for the Sunfish championship counts as a Curaçao next June. Youth Worlds, being held in the Curaçao Sunfish amazed everybody by grabbing second. The 2009 title amongst the adults, finished captured the bronze. champion, Kevin van Otterdijk, The first girl over the line was Alexandra Siebels. Odile van Aanholt and Kristie van der Woude, both 12 years old, were the best in the Sunfish double class. sailing season. In June he placed third in the Sunfish Open Worlds in Italy; in July he finished 15th in the Laser Radial at the ISAF Youth Worlds in Turkey; by the end of July he claimed bronze in the Sunfish class at the Central American and Caribbean Games in DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 J/24. EarlyentriesincludePaulKing’sFirst40.7, — “RealPeopleHavingRealFun!”fromFebruary4ththrough6th,2011. from January28ththroughFebruary1st,followedbytheDigicelWorkBoatRegatta mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com. Barth’s andAntigua,then,whoknows,perhapsanotherchallengetoraceSpain! original building andracingyachtssuchas up to40hands. designs ofthemagnificentracingschoonerscometolifewithyachtscrewedby ambition tochallengetheOldWorldoutonwater.Thissaw York YachtClubrepresentedthewealthandpowerofNewWorld—its ing toentries.Theclockwisecoursewillresultinboatssailingsome70miles. Design, MonohullOpenandMultihullOpen.Otherclassesmaybeincludedaccord- tality. Racingwillbeheldinfiveclasses:Classics,SpiritofTradition,MonohullOne All arewelcometojointhischallengingeventandenjoysomefamousBajanhospi- Gay RumRoundBarbadosRace,tobeheldJanuary21st,2011—andyoucantoo! — —Continuedonnextpage North SouthWines. Colin Rathbun. Jury (39th),theUSA’sChrisVanTolandBritishVirginIslands’ American, TaylorCanfield(27th),theUSA’sDavePerry(28th),NewZealand’sLaurie Portugal’s AlvaroMarinho(14th),St.ThomasnativeandBostonCollegeAll- Sidney-to-Hobart Race,NewZealand’sGavinBrady.Theseveteranstakeon tour” bybreakingthe Herreshoff museum.Thenew launched, havingbeenbuiltusingcopiesoftheoriginaldrawingsfrom race roundtheislandofBarbados,and sailor! In1935,the Apparently thisroguelovedtorace,tradeanddrinkMountGayRum—ourkindof the book fall fromgracewascaughtbyhernewowner,LouKennedy,andimmortalizedin 3 Jaguar Venomous Spain himself. from NewYorktoSantander,SpainwasforatrophydonatedbytheKingof comers, includingtheschooner glory camein1928when,undertheownershipofWilliamB.Bell,shebeatall She won,andwentontowinmanymoretimes,butherdefiningmomentof Insurance, LePhareBleuMarina&Boutique Hotel,RealValueIGASupermarket,and 25th through27th. Class Association,amongothers. Association, PuertoRicoOptimistDinghyandtheSnipe (Federación deVelaPuertoRico),andothergroupsincludingtheLaser CNSJ SailingProgramhasthefullsupportfromPuertoRicoFederation pants. Sailorscompeteinthefollowingclassifications:Optimist,Laser,andSnipe. The sailors fromPuertoRicoandabroad.Lastyear’seventhostedarecord80partici- one oftheCaribbean’smostvibrantcities. sphere aswellmodernamenities,includingasecuremarinaonthedoorstepof Bay. ClubNáuticodeSanJuanwasfoundedin1930andhasanelegantatmo- International RegattafromFebruary4ththrough6th,2011onthewatersofSanJuan 2010 ratesandthenofferinga50percentdiscountondockspace. the Festival,isofferingagreatdockingdealtoallparticipants:theyarefreezing Yearwood’s the islandofBarbados month inaracearound belle oftheballnext bygone times.She’llbe waves withthegraceof Elena cutsthroughthe original 1910design, Meticulously builttothe ; DieterHuppenkothen’sSwan43, Yacht competitionwillbeinfourclasses:Racing,Racing/Cruising,Cruisingand Some ofthemostexcitingyachtracinginSouthernCaribbeanwilltakeplace De DockDealforGrenadaSailingFestival2011 For moreinformationon For moreinformationontheMountGayRumRoundBarbadosRacevisitwww. Elena In thetrialstoselecttheirchallenger,Americanyachtsmensetaboutdesigning, About ahundredyearsago,nameslikeVanderbilt,PlantandPrattoftheNew The BarbadosCruisingClubreports:schooner Join theHistoricMountGayRoundBarbadosRace! For moreinformationvisitwww.styc.net. Spectators canenjoytentedbleacherseatingontheCharlotteAmaliewaterfront. …two-time WhitbreadRoundtheWorldcompetitor,andwinnerofgrueling In 2009,thenew And the The fiveGoldSponsorshavebeenconfirmed asWesterhallEstateLtd,Netherlands The popularSouthGrenadaRegattahas confirmedthedatesfor2011:February For FebruaryFun—SouthGrenadaRegatta For moreinformationseeadonpage19. On-line registrationisnowopenatwww.nauticodesanjuan.com. Club NáuticodeSanJuancelebratesanannualInternationalYouthRegattafor The venerableClubNáuticodeSanJuan,PuertoRicowillbehostingits10th Bienvenidos enPuertoRico! For moreinformationonPortLouisMarinaseeadpage55. For moreinformationontheGrenadaSailingFestivalseeadthispage. New parties,morefun—2011programmecomingsoon!Onlineregistrationisnowopen. Camper &NicholsonsPortLouisMarina,theHomeandRaceHeadquartersfor Continued frompreviouspage also plans to compete in several of the Caribbean regattas, including those in St. alsoplanstocompeteinseveraloftheCaribbeanregattas,includingthoseSt. ; PeterLewis’sJ/105, Elena The LastSchoonerman(seereviewintheMarch2007issueof Sea Fox ; PaulSolomon’sHenderson35, Die Hard raced againstthe ? SheheadedtoBarbadosandfellintotrade,buthersupposed Elena ofLondon Sea Fox andGusReader’s

Sea Fox’s Elena VALENT RON settherecordof10hours,20minutes,infirstschooner Whistler Elena visitwww.schoonerelena.com. recordhereinBarbadosonJanuary21st. Atlantic, Sea Fox , anexactreplicaofthe1911 intendstostarthercommemorative“centennial ; RichardJerrom’sBeneteau47.7, Rasmus Elena, SeaFox,Westward Elena Glory Daze forachancetorepresenttheNYYC. intheKing’sCup.Thistransatlanticrace BlackBerry Enzyme ; andintheJ/24class,Robbie planstobreakitin2011. Coyote Elena . ; ChrisJago’sFarr60, willcompeteintheMount ; PeterMorris’sFrers43, and Elena Atlantic. Tanga Langa , was Compass The ) . DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

COINCIDENCE? NO WAY! Thanks to all 2010 Sponsors Optimist, Laser & Snipe THE OLDEST CONTINUOUSLY USED USED THE OLDEST CONTINUOUSLY February 4-6, 2011 RATING RULE IN THE SAILING WORLD RATING Registration – for entries after December 1st, 2010 THE AUDIENCE The Caribbean has long been the preferred destination for racing sailors. The conditions, the variety and the multitude of cultures and events offer you, the The CSA Ratingsailors, the best possible experience. Rule is proud to have done its part for almost 50 years. rule, right place! - right CSA for details of the CSA Rating Rule and Visit www.caribbean-sailing.com more information on the Caribbean Sailing Association. THE STAGE blue waters, warm consistent trade winds and scenic islands... Turquoise the Caribbean Sailing Association Rating Rule has been in continuous use in the Caribbean for almost 50 years. It is used in 16 territories by over 35 local events to hard-core round the buoys international regattas, from relaxed racing! The Rule is tailored to the conditions and the racing fleets. THE PERFORMERS Expert, friendly and helpful third party measurers, fluent in many languages, are conveniently on hand at all CSA regattas for pre-regatta measurement, rating advice, class allocation and to assist owners with optimization for specific events and conditions. This hands-on approach and active network of measurers allow the Rule issues rapidly and to respond to measurement effectively. [email protected] http://www.nauticodesanjuan.com [email protected] http://www.nauticodesanjuan.com • Snipe $160.00 Snipe WHEN: CATEGORY: FEES: • and before January 19th, 2011: / Laser $130.00 • Optimist th - 19 th 2011 April 14 Photo by Ted Martin, www.photofantasyantigua.com Martin, Ted by Photo 24th at the Antigua Yacht Club (268) 460-1799 at the Antigua Yacht Annual For more information, please contact the Secretary For [email protected] www.antiguaclassics.com Continued from previous page Continued from … and May’s Main Barbados Event! Regatta 2011, from Barbados is hosting the 26th annual Mount Gay Rum Barbados from last year’s numbers The Regatta organizers are looking forward to an increase The notice of race can be accessed at www.sailbarbados.com. For more information contact the Barbados Sailing Association Mount Gay Rum Barbados Regatta 2011 Feeder Race… Mount Gay Rum Barbados noted for their fashion sense, but one universally Regatta sailors are not normally sailors and free-spirited Reinforcing the regatta’s reputation as one for hardened by an inaugural The 2011 Mount Gay Rum Barbados Regatta will be preceded For more information contact the Barbados Sailing Association There will be three yacht races along the spectacular south coast of Grenada over spectacular south coast of yacht races along the There will be three see ad on page 18. For more information Cup Budget Marine Match Racing Act Now to Enter will once place March 1st 2011, Match Racing Cup, taking The Budget Marine Cup will use identical Jenneau SunFast 20s for The Budget Marine Match Racing event will be posted at www.heinekenregatta.com. The Notice of Race for this May 12th through 15th. With visible near-shore racing in sapphire blue waters, action May 12th through 15th. With visible near-shore racing in yet cool and comfortable on around the buoys is tight and fast in the racing classes, the Barbados Yacht Club, the cruising courses. The venerable host of the regatta, sailors and their families, looks forward to sharing club privileges with the regatta a rum drink or two! along with some great beach games, camaraderie, and J/24 fleet in the — the largest fleet to date. Barbados is home to the largest which improves as more Southern Caribbean, creating an instant one-design class B class continues to visiting J/24s come to compete in the Regatta. The Cruising the region learn about the increase in size as well, as cruising yachts from around to get there just makes sheer fun the Regatta has to offer: the beat to windward everything that much more enjoyable! at [email protected]. prized and eternally hip fashion necessity is the Mount Gay Rum Red Cap. Often, it is necessity is the Mount Gay Rum Red Cap. Often, prized and eternally hip fashion of at regattas, but in Mount Gay Rum’s home island only rewarded to race winners and will continue to be given to all sailors who com- Barbados, the Cap has been your calendars for May pete in the Mount Gay Rum Barbados Regatta. So mark while enjoying the great rac- 12th through 15th, 2011 so you can earn your own Cap has to offer. ing and phenomenal landside activities the island of Barbados its Cruising Class numbers. cruisers alike, it has in recent years seen an increase in starts, which help to The class uses separate courses and a system of staggered — something most cruis- reduce stress about conflicts and contacts between boats ers happily avoid! Islands and beyond Feeder Race, in which participating yachts from the Windward prior to the Regatta. can cruise/race over to Barbados as a fleet the weekend the race will start from Organized in conjunction with the St. Lucia Yacht Club, yachts will beat to wind- Rodney Bay and finish at Port St. Charles, Barbados. The the hospitality of the ward for many different and unique prizes, and then enjoy earn their Red Caps. The island before the main-event Regatta where they can Gay Rum Barbados organizers look forward to greeting new sailors to the Mount Regatta 2011 through this Feeder Race! at [email protected]. two days, with great prizes, fun parties and live music. Competitive but fun sailing! live music. Competitive great prizes, fun parties and two days, with the world. skippers from around the skills and abilities of professional again highlight In the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. is the pre-event to the 31st This third edition Peter States and Russia have participated. Poland, USVI, the United past, teams from race the first two years; many wonder if he will take Holmberg of the USVI won this Budget Marine, the title sponsor, is offering US$10,000 home first prize for a third time. in prize money this year. by Lagoon Sailboat Rentals in St. Maarten. With the race, owned and operated up for grabs, those who wish to participate must room for eight teams, and places regatta office at [email protected]. send in their sailing CVs to the notified immediately, and the entry fee is minimal. Once selected, teams will be from all sailors, male or female, who think they Applications are being accepted An ISAF ID is appreciated when sending your infor- have what it takes to compete. to say there has never been a lack of interest in this mation. Organizers are pleased your information now; the deadline is January 7th 2011. race, so be sure to send in [email protected]. For more information contact — DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 Idylle the wellknownand“best-keptsecret”destinations. vis-à-vis theirownexperience,andtosharewithusfavoriteplacesamongboth boating activity,St.Maarten/St.Martincameatthebottomoflist. and Guatemala,aswellMontserrat.Surprisingly,foranislandwithsomuch British VirginIslandstogether),andAntigua&Barbuda. set asidethenationallabelhereandcountedbothUSVirginIslands Virgins”) andSt.Kitts/Nevis.Alsointhemid-rangewereallVirginIslands(we St. Lucia,followedcloselybytheDutchABCs,PuertoRico(including“Spanish contain numerousislands,andthusoffermultiplecruisingdestinations. Panama. Obviously,thesecountriesscoredhighpartlybecausetheyarelargeand/or Tobago, Grenada,theFrenchislands(Martinique,GuadeloupeandSt.Barth’s) written aboutmostoftenwereVenezuela,St.Vincent&theGrenadines,Trinidad count offeature-lengtharticlespublishedin they like.(Andwritelettersaboutwhatdon’tlike!)Accordingtoarough and theCaribbean”bya2010MarinasofCaribbeanwebsitepoll. “boating publication[that]isthemosttrustedsourceofinformationaboutyachting direct inputfromthereal-lifecruisingcommunitywe’reproudtohavebeenvoted and thanksprincipallytothis Sea fromBarbadostoBelize, sailors plyingtheCaribbean lished first-handarticlesfrom Caribbean Compass from, it’shardtobeat. different destinationstochoose culturally andgeographically warm watersandawealthof Mediterranean, withtradewinds, area largerthanthe do besidesworkonyourboatandbuyparts,butIdon’tthinkmanycruisers be thatthetwoterritoriesbillthemselvesasahugerepairshop.There why peopledon’twriteaboutSt.Maarten/St.Martin—everyonegoesthere.Itcould glad toleave—toosmallanislandforme.Butitsureisinmytoplist.” boat orsomeoneelse’sboat.Goodplace,althoughaftersomemonthsIwasalways a placetowriteabout;whatcanyouwrite?It’sonlypartyingandworkingonyour Maarten, sometimestwiceayear,fromVenezuelaup.ButmaybeSt.Maartenisnot the sloop expensive andnoisy…kindoflikeSt.ThomasonEuros”—othersareperplexed: shocked aboutSt.Martin/St.Maartenbeingleftout—“It’stoocommercial,crowded, While EllenSanpere,whowithherhusbandTonylivedaboardthe51-footBeneteau The St.Martin/St.MaartenMystery We askedaselectionofseasonedcruisingsailorstocommentonthesefindings Feeling ratherleftoutuntilrecentlywereJamaica,theDominicanRepublic,Haiti The nextfourcountriesmostwrittenaboutwereDominica,Cuba,Colombiaand Sailors —andpowerboaters,tootendtowritearticlesfor For thepast15years, The Devi Sharpofthe43-footsloop “It isstrangeyousaythatSt.Maartennotinthetop,”commentsEddyHuybsof Cayenne III Helena cruising. An meant for Caribbean is

, “becausethatisoneofmyfavorites.I’vesailedseventimestoSt. since1998andrecentlymovedashoreinStCroix,doesn’tseem haspub- Arctic Tern Cruising the Caribbean — CruisingtheCaribbean THE WRITTENTRACK Compass secondsEddy’sremarks:“Iamnotsure over the years, the six countries overtheyears,sixcountries ON ANDOFF Compass about places aboutplaces are thingsto —Continuedonnextpage walk tothetheaterthereatnight,whichisquiteanoveltywhiletravelingbyboat. ticket. WealsolovetocatchmoviesinSt.Martin.It’seasyparkthedinghyand ‘Gourmands oftheCaribbean’list,butentriesfromSt.Martinalonefilledup We oftentalkedwiththecrewsof the FrenchandDutchsideshavesomeofbestplacestoeatinCaribbean. trail. Notonlycanyougetpartsandservicesfortheboat,foodisincredible!Both Roy andIloveditthereseemslikesuchanormalstopalongtheCaribbean prised thatSt.Martin/St.Maartenisinthebottomofmost-covereddestinations. lot tosee.” go toontheFrenchside.WalkingaroundMarigotandPhilipsburgthereisquitea their boataroundwhilethere,eventhoughtherearequiteafewniceanchoragesto them. AnotherreasonistopartyontheDutchside.Veryfewpeopleactuallymove is tostockupwithgroceries,getparts(duty-free)fortheirboatsandworkon than thelagoonanditsborderingbays.ThemainreasonpeoplestopinSt.Maarten in print,somefansbeg,‘Don’ttelleverybodyaboutit!’ While theget-awayisleofBarbudahasbeenneitherignorednorover-exposed BETTY KARL Michelle Flemingaboardthe40-footIslandPacket Voyageur C and Bonanza Daniell Story them venturefarther or another.But,fewof stops thereatonetime every Caribbeancruiser ran Collaert ofthecatama- category,” agreesLiesbet be foundintheleft-out is aninterestingoneto spine oftheisland.” hike 95percentofthe hours. HunterandIdid work andattendhappy do muchmorethanboat “St. Martin/St.Maarten adds,“Iamverysur- Irie , “becausealmost aboutdoinga DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

JULIA BARTLETT “We also managed a trip to Ile à Vache, Haiti — post earthquake. It was amazing. We“We also managed a trip to Ile à Vache, Haiti — post earthquake. Michelle Fleming says, “Last season Roy and I cruised the south coast of the DR. and I cruised the south coast says, “Last season Roy Michelle Fleming Left: St. Vincent & the Grenadines scores both print and praise for its numerous Left: St. Vincent & the Grenadines This is Admiralty Bay, Bequia islands and comfortable anchorages. hasn’t been written about so much, cruisers do love its Below: Although Guatemala town of Fronteras Rio Dulce. This is the riverside found out that rules were always changing and some information needed updating. found out that rules were always changing and some of fees and having to deal with The biggest problem in the DR is the constant paying wearing on us. We’d be much authorities. How much to pay and to whom became time around! more confident saying ‘no’ to certain requests a second into how the donation systembrought some food and supplies and got quite an insight both the weather and from aworks in Haiti. The anchorage is very safe both from Morgan told me, ‘Michelle,personal safety perspective. As Rose from the Hotel Port welcome here always!’” there are no problems at Ile à Vache; you are safe and —Continued on next page mostly overland. Not sure why more people don’t submit their experiences at the don’t submit their experiences Not sure why more people mostly overland. a big landmass are too scared to travel sights. Maybe most cruisers many different I wanted to visit Republic, Mark and When we were in the Dominican by themselves. from the discouraged and, to be honest, but that was strongly Haiti overland, and atmo- we felt a change in energy stepped over the border, moment we briefly be different.” Haiti over the water might sphere. Visiting place was fan- boats along the way, but the fewer than ten cruising We encountered guide, we Mr. Virgintino’s on-line cruising we were grateful to have tastic. While

WILFRED DEDERER

] Continued from previous page Continued from Liesbet Collaert notes that, “The Dominican Republic has a lot to see and do, but Liesbet Collaert notes that, “The Dominican Republic Eddy Huybs writes, “In 2004, I was in Jamaica, Cuba and Mexico. You could com- Eddy Huybs writes, “In 2004, I was in Jamaica, Cuba “You didn’t even mention Honduras’ Bay Islands, Mexico or Belize. We enjoyed the “You didn’t even mention Honduras’ Bay Islands, Mexico She adds, “Montserrat got a bum deal with that volcano — we went there in 2006 She adds, “Montserrat got a bum deal with that volcano Other ‘Best-Kept Secrets’ Sanpere writes: “Tony and I Regarding the other less-covered destinations, Ellen The lagoon is always filled with cruising boats and so is the anchorage on the boats and so is the anchorage always filled with cruising The lagoon is Editor’s note: see http://dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com for current regulations. Editor’s note: see http://dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com We stayed on anchor, but watch your stuff.” pare Jamaica with Trinidad: similar culture, similar people, similar crime problem. pare Jamaica with Trinidad: similar culture, similar people, stayed four weeks in Boca Two years ago we were in the Dominican Republic. We the bus to Santo Domingo, Chica on the south coast; it’s easy from there to take not much cruising going on which is a nice city to visit with great history. There was cruising became expensive. in the DR because you had to pay in every port so [ Bay Islands and Isla Mujeres, but again it’s a lousy beat back to St. Croix.” Bay Islands and Isla Mujeres, but again it’s a lousy beat and loved it. That said, we stayed only two nights because [after volcanic activity that and loved it. That said, we stayed only two nights because and we didn’t feel we should year] there were no services, the island was distressed, had lunch. The anchorage burden it for more than that. We did the taxi tour and eruption. was a little rolly and we felt the presence of an imminent loved the season we spent in Guatemala’s Rio Dulce — good cruising community, loved the season we spent in Guatemala’s Rio Dulce yacht services, abundant safe hurricane haven, lots of Mayan ruins to explore, some once you’re that far west, it’s and inexpensive fresh produce, meat and shrimp. But a pain to beat upwind to get back to the rest of the islands.” French side, so there is no shortage of friends to make.” there is no shortage of friends French side, so — DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 for largeitems.” are cheapflightsavailabletoMiamiforboat-typeshopping,andshippingservices and fromtheEasternCaribbean,notallboatpartsareavailable.Butthere (www.riodulcechisme.com). Thedownsideisthatittimeconsumingtoget (where mostoftheboatsare)andanon-linecruisermagazinewithusefullinks inexpensive livingandmarinas,interestingshoretrips,goodsecurityinFronteras diving, plusalargelakeforhurricaneseasonsailing/shakedowns.Addtothatthe haulout facilities,theworld’ssecondlargestbarrierreef,islandsforcruisingand tion,” declaressailingauthorJuliaBartlett.“Ithasasafehurricanehole,three Cayo Largo,Cuba.Sweet!” make theovernightbroadreachstraightnorthtoSantiago,Cubaorresortat Tuesday nightall-you-can-eatbuffetwithlivemusic.Nowyouareperfectlypoisedto and snorkelongiantcoralheadsjustoffthedock.HeadaroundtoKaibofor enjoy someoftheclearestwatersoutsideBahamas.AnchoroverbyRumPoint water behindoneofthebestreefsinCaribbean.Swimwithstingraysand of theislandintoNorthSound,whereyoucananchorinflatcalmtenfeet you arrive.CheckinattheportGeorgetownandthenheadaroundnorthend feel rightathome. Their old-timehospitalityandreasonablefeesforusingtheirfacilitiesmakecruisers key way.ThenskipOchoRiosandenjoyanchoringbytheMontegoBayYachtClub. river touring.ThissmalltownisagreatplacetogetfulltasteofJamaicainlow- the marketandtakesomeoflocaltourstonearbymountainsforhiking are friendlyandprofessionalthewholeareaisverysecure.It’sfuntoshopin Jamaica operatesPortAntonio’sanchorageandErrolFlynnMarina;theauthorities outposts, butwestillranintocruisingboatsalongtheway.ThePortAuthorityof between PortAntonio,JamaicaandGrandCayman.Thesetwoplacesdofeellike —

“IvotefortheRioDulce,Guatemala,asmyfavoriteleast-written-aboutdestina- “Grand CaymanisaplaceforlittleRandR.It’sexpensive,soprovisionbefore Michelle’s favoriteplacesamongthosewrittenaboutleastoften?“Formeitisatie Continued frompreviouspage DEVI SHARP DEVI

—Continuedonnextpage spend hurricaneseason.”) in theABCsinstead.”(DeviSharpconcurs:“Curaçaoisacheapandeasyplaceto Venezuela isnolongersafe,severalcruisersweknowarespendinghurricaneseason its usefulness:airconnectionstotheUS,OldSanJuanandPuertodelRey.As enough toslowdownourboat.I’veneverbeeninlovewithPuertoRico,butithas and Statia,mostlybecausewehadlittlecruisinginfothatmadethemattractive over andtheplaceseemslikeParadiseforsure.WeskippedSt.Kitts,Nevis,Saba bies arriveandfallinlovewiththeCaribbean.Theirveryscaryordealofcrossingis before leavinginahurry.TheARClandshere,though,andthat’swheremanynew- what’s theattractionofSt.Lucia—wedidn’tgetpastoneveryloudnightthere around atnight.” charm. SecurityiswonderfulandittheonlycityIfeelcomfortablewandering have notseenintheCaribbeananythingthatcomparestoitsarchitectureand most wonderfulcityIhaveevervisiteddownhereisCartagena,Colombia,and CHRIS DOYLE look forwardto:“EdieandIhavebeensouthofthe12thlatitudesince2005.The for ustoblendinto.” Looking forwardtoColombia.IguessI’mstartingfavorplacesthatarebigenough St. Luciamore,butwe’retoomuchofaspectaclethere—needed,forourwallets. especially ifyou’retryingtoaccomplish‘stateside’stuff.I’dlikeDominicaand and IspentsomuchtimeintheVirginswereallyknowourwayaround,whichhelps, who hasbothcruisedandworkedonprivateyachtsintheCaribbean,says,“Doug and DeviSharpagrees:‘IlovetheTrinis’ Left: PortofSpainmarket.‘OurfavoritepeopleareinTrinidad’saysEllenSanpere, This isPortsmouth Above: DominicaisoneofcruiserEddyHuybs’topthreefavoriteislands. Regarding someothermid-rangedestinations,EllenSanperesays,“Notsure Michael RosneroftheMorgan41OutIsland Regarding islandsinthemid-coveragerange,circumnavigatorAnnWestergard, Cruising theMiddleRange Panda saysAnnhassomethingto DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 know what’s not to like in T&T, Eddy Huybs shares his expe- not to like in T&T, Eddy Huybs know what’s don’t about people who ‘fall in love’ with T&T, but once they get tortured by about people who ‘fall in love’ with T&T, but once they Compass Eddy adds, “Venezuela was a long time in my top three favorite places, and in favorite places, and in Eddy adds, “Venezuela was a long time in my top three Curaçao. Dominica is a “Now my top three islands are Grenada, Dominica and “I also really like Trinidad a lot — I love the Trinis, Jesse James (taxi service) the Trinis, Jesse James like Trinidad a lot — I love “I also really For those who Customs and Immigration they have a different view.” it has fallen out. Now, with seven years I spent almost three years in Margarita. But has lost its attraction the prices going up all the time and crime rising, Margarita for me. of Dominica as an island that simple island; I spent months there. I always thought it’s all the same. Curaçao is a does not change — if you come back one year later, But if I ever retire from friendly, safe, developed island, not cheap, not expensive. and I recently spent five sailing, Panama is my number-one place to retire. Glenda months there, and it is the place to be!” —Continued on next page cials have just played one time too many with my balls. Tobago is a beautiful island cials have just played one time too many with my balls. messed it up for me, and with nice people, but last time I was there the authorities I have read many stories that gives a bad feeling for the whole area. Over the years in great breeze (Hog Island). great breeze (Hog the music is home, the food is excellent, it feel like you are coming always makes — it is & Tobago Sailing Association) anchoring at TTSA (the Trinidad great. I enjoy but you know There is a lot not to like, international and inexpensive. very sociable, are.” what those things and I have made four times to Trinidad, three times to Tobago and rience: “I’ve been Immigration offi- there — the Customs and promise never to go back myself a holy St. George’s. As Liesbet Collaert notes, when cruisers linger in Grenada they ‘have St. George’s. As Liesbet Collaert notes, when cruisers linger culture and sights — and plenty of time to explore and submerge themselves in the write about them’ I think the popular coun-

Continued from previous page Continued from Devi Sharp says, “Hunter and I agree that Grenada is number one on our list of Devi Sharp says, “Hunter and I agree that Grenada is “Our favorite people are in Trinidad. We like the yacht services, diversity, culture, “Our favorite people are in Trinidad. We like the yacht “In SVG, we always enjoyed our stops in Union Island and Bequia. Bequia is a “In SVG, we always enjoyed our stops in Union Island “In the past,” she adds, “Venezuela was one of our favorite places to visit, thanks “In the past,” she adds, “Venezuela was one of our favorite Ellen Sanpere supports that view: “Venezuela, Trinidad & Tobago, and Grenada view: “Venezuela, Trinidad & Tobago, and Grenada Ellen Sanpere supports that “Also, everybody likes St. Vincent & the Grenadines (SVG) for obvious reasons [e.g. & the Grenadines (SVG) for obvious reasons [e.g. “Also, everybody likes St. Vincent Liesbet explains: “I think Grenada, Venezuela and T&T’s popularity [in print] has Venezuela and T&T’s popularity [in print] has Liesbet explains: “I think Grenada, Best-Covered Destinations, and Why Best-Covered Destinations, cruising opportunities, why do some destinations get Aside from offering numerous Still in mid-coverage range, “Our favorite less-traveled Caribbean island is “Our favorite less-traveled Caribbean island Still in mid-coverage range, “Cuba has to be our favorite less-traveled country,” Ellen says. “Although we spent country,” Ellen says. “Although be our favorite less-traveled “Cuba has to “The USVI is where Tony and I chose to swallow the anchor — it’s great for US swallow the anchor — it’s where Tony and I chose to “The USVI is favorite well-traveled places. The island is small enough to get around, there are favorite well-traveled places. The island is small enough folks are really friendly and buses to take you to places including great hikes, the I can swim and enjoy a the crime rate is relatively low. We usually anchor where natural wonders, things to do and see and eat and hear.” favorite place to visit on the beaten track: pretty island, laid back, some services, favorite place to visit on the beaten track: pretty island, islands there is a great cruis- okay anchorage, Rasta produce market. In the French and St. Barth’s is, well, er hangout in Ste. Anne, Martinique; Les Saintes is unique; — leaving the Caribbean (or St. Barth’s. Panama, of course, is all about the canal the Pacific) and starting on a whole new chapter. to the people, yacht services, land-based travel opportunities, music, volunteer to the people, yacht services, land-based travel opportunities, so many security issues that opportunities, food, rum…. Now, Venezuela has had there and maybe drum some cruisers feel they need to relate their great experience up business for their new friends. are where many cruisers spend the hurricane season and get their boat work done. are where many cruisers spend the hurricane season their surroundings because They spend a lot of time here and have to write about making news, the locals are it’s so different, there are a lot of other cruisers there to write. neat, and they’ve caught up with things and have time tries are the places most long-term Caribbean cruisers spend time. That way they Caribbean cruisers spend time. That way they tries are the places most long-term them, and therefore write about them.” get to know them and love a lot of different and comfortable anchorages]. Panama must be popular for its anchorages]. Panama must be popular for a lot of different and comfortable far as the French islands go, I think they are ‘popular’ unique offshore islands. (As out category. I think Martinique is the one that stands because you put them in one and anchoring possibilities.) because of the many sailing to do with the amount of time cruisers spend there. These are the popular places to cruisers spend there. These are the popular places to do with the amount of time so people have plenty of time to explore and submerge spend a hurricane season, sights — and write about them. themselves in the culture and so much ink? Barbuda,” says Liesbet Collaret, “for its space, peace and quiet, remote beaches and “for its space, peace and quiet, remote beaches Barbuda,” says Liesbet Collaret, far. reminds us of the Bahamas, our all-time favorite so relaxed atmosphere. Also, it into Antigua would be cheaper, I’m sure we would If importing our dog, Darwin, well, because of the different places to anchor and go.” spend a lot of time there as only two months there, we met some wonderful people (non-cruisers), heard lots of people (non-cruisers), there, we met some wonderful only two months (wonder and man-made. It’s uncrowded sights both natural music, saw gorgeous had many excellent adventures.” that will last?) and we how much longer citizens, can’t recommend it to others. St. Thomas has great racing, and St. John is Thomas has great racing, recommend it to others. St. citizens, can’t The BVI has there is not my party crowd. but the cruising community okay to visit, spend much go there for racing and don’t bareboats, etcetera. We too many tourists, time there otherwise. — DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 is ourfavoriteislandthere)becauseofthesmalleramountmooringballsand and goodsnorkeling.Ifwehavetopickoneofthesetwo,chooseSVG(Mayreau for thesamereasons:lotsofsailingandanchoringpossibilitieswithnicebeaches there forsheercharmandfriendliness.” to haveacultureofitsown,cosmopolitanandreasonablywell-run.” It’s more‘exotic’thantheothers,hasEuropeanflair,iseasytogetaround,bigenough highlights afavoriteamongthebest-knowncruisingdestinations:“IlikeMartinique. have notbeenabletodoso.” the TobagoCaysinSVG.WehavewantedtoreturnFrenchislandsoftenbut months. Theseislandsarebeautiful,butattimesoftheyearincrediblycrowded,like We arepresentlyvisitingtheSanBlasinPanamaandwillbeherefornextsix I liketheVenezuelanislandsbest,withBlanquillabeingmypersonalparadise. and spendthedayexploringsidecreeksinyourdinghy.” muddy) water.Youwaketomonkeysandparrots,havedinnerwatchingriverdolphins, interaction. Webothreallylikerivers.Ilovenotbeingseasickandhavingfresh(albeit language ‘Venezuelan’:‘HablasVenezuela?’WereallyenjoytheWareoIndiansand and youreallycan’tcallitVenezuela.IlovethattheWareoIndiansSpanish traveled Caribbeandestination,andwhy?HunterIbothpickedtheMacareoRiver, — Liesbet says,“Ourfavoritewell-traveledCaribbeancountriesaretheBVIandSVG Julia Bartlettweighsin:“Avoteforapopulardestination?Carriacouhastobeup Ann Westergard,nowcruisingontheValiant40 Michael Rosneradds,“AstothemostbeautifulislandsIhaveseen,mustsaythat Parts ofVenezuelagetspecialpraise.DeviSharpwrites:“Whatisourfavoriteless- Continued frompreviouspage Galivant

and currently in Honduras, and currentlyinHonduras, ELLEN SANPERE ELLEN with nicebeachesandgoodsnorkeling’.ThisisChristiansted,St.Croix Left: TheVirginIslandsareappreciatedfor‘lotsofsailingandanchoringpossibilities This isMarigotBay Above: St.Lucia,‘wheremanynewbiesarriveandfallinlovewiththeCaribbean’.

What canIsay?justlovetheCaribbeanandtraveling.” parks, butIdomakeapointtotrylikeeachplaceforwhatithasoffer.” and notlookback.Havingsaidthat,ofcourseIdohavefavoriteislands Bend NationalPark,andIalwaysmadeitapointtolikewherewas,bepresent worked fortheUSNationalParksService.WemovedtofiveparksafterleavingBig of informationamother-in-lawcouldgivedaughter-in-lawmarryingmanwho mother alwayssaid,‘WhereIam,ofcourse’.Thatmighthavebeenthebestnugget Hunter grewupinamilitaryfamilyandwhenaskedaboutherfavoriteplacehis so youunderstandHunterandmewhyitisabitdifficulttopickfavorites. tries arefavoritesfordifferentreasons.” the Frenchside.”Shenotes,“Itisalwayshardtotalkaboutfavorites,becausecoun- two cultures,anditscloseneighborsAnguillaSt.Barth’stoaddthestopson and nicebeaches,snorkelingatIledeRondeCarriacou.St.Maartenhasits CHRIS DOYLE have alotofplacestoanchorandsightssee.Grenadahasitswonderfulinterior us areSt.MaartenandGrenada.Theairportswithineasyreachtheyboth the EasternCaribbeanfortwoyears,I’dsaymyfavoritecountriestohaveguestsvisit charter boats,andtheproximityofrefugeduringhurricaneseason.Afterbeingin Many thankstothecruiserswhocontributedthisarticle. Michelle sumsupthecruisers’dilemma:“I’msoterribleatdeclaringa‘favorite’. Devi SharpagreeswithLiesbetthatit’shardtochoose.“Okay,Ihavesaythis, DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 while snorkelingintheislands’lee A Queenangelfishspotted hot meansstopandbynoonthestreetsemptyout,mostshopsclosetheirdoors window chattingwithapasserby.Saturdaymorninglifebustles,butonthisisland might seeawoman,framedbybrightlypaintedshutters,leaningoutherstreetside white, accentedbybrightlycoloredtrimsandshuttersineverycheerfulhue.You bike balancingfourormorebaguettesontheirhandlebar.Homesarepaintedstark up anddownthestreetsontheirbicyclesit’snotunusualtoseesomeonea their boats,repairingnets,sharingfishstoriesandthelatestnews.Childrenpass vendors comefromGuadeloupetosellfreshproduce.Thefishermengatheraround a varietyoffreshlybaked man andhiscustomersashecutsthefishtoorder. to maketheirpurchases.Thereisalotoflaughterandchatterbetweenthefisher- their catch,includingmouthwateringtunaandmahimahi.Localsquicklyqueueup islands. Alsoearlyinthemorningyouwillfindsomeoflocalfishermenselling batch tocomeoutoftheoven.Thesearearguablysomebestbaguettesin people loungingaboutkeepingoneeyeonthecountdowntimerwaitingfornext dating about30loavesandevenwiththatcapacity,onewilloftenseeclustersof aroma offreshlybakedbaguettes.Thebaguettesbakeinatieredtrolleyaccommo- their mothersastheywalktoschool.Thelocal lively. Earlymornings,thestreetsfillwithchildren,youngestaccompaniedby reveals theverdantpeaksofGuadeloupe. ress, theraincloudeventuallyemptiesitselfand,likepartingtheatrecurtains, Saturday ismarketdayinLeBourg.Thestreetscomealivewithislandersselling The paceinthequintessentiallyFrenchvillageofLeBourgrangesfromsleepyto W Iles desSaintes HEN Savoring les choose betweensomanybeautifultropicalparadises? me and invariably werespond,“Thatalldepends.”Howcan Dave ask people askDaveandme,“Whichislandisyourfavorite?” feuilletes by MichelleDaniels ALL ASHORE… : flakypastryfilledwithfish,meatorcrab.Afew obscure thatisland.AsIwatchitsprog- thick sheetsofrainthatcompletely island sixmilestoournorth,releasing is the channelbetweenusandbig an isolatedraincloudparadesthrough quietness. Mostmornings,almostoncue, Santo Domingocoffeeandenjoyingthe cockpit whilesippingmyfirstcupof Terre-de-Haut. stretching upthefloweringslopesof son-, lemon-andmango-coloredtileroofs in thetowncenter,andclustersofcrim- side restaurants,aprettychurchsteeple luscious eyecandywithitswell-keptsea- water, theviewofvillageLeBourgis would describeTerre-de-Haut.Fromthe and plopitintheCaribbeanSea,that to scoopupasmidgeonofruralFrance 37”W —lesIlesdesSaintes.IfGodwere ping pass bywithoutmakingaturnanddrop- long thatwejustcan’tbringourselvesto along theWestIndies,thereisonelat/ t a q S c T s s i s l w w a t 3 p p lo a n u o h Awakening thereIenjoysittinginthe Yet, inourtravelsnorthandsouth Daniell Storey’s boulangerie “ hc sadi orfavori your is island Which fillstheairwith hook:16’52”N61’ te?” the islandersspendtheirafternoonsathome.At3:00 minutes pastnoon,onlytofindoutthat our walkupthesteeproadtosummit.Wearrivedatfortentranceten torical museumofthearea.OnourfirstvisittoFortNapoleon,wegotalazystart restored bygroupsofyoungvolunteerswhohaveconvertedittoanexcellenthis- sitting 100metresabovesealevel,overlookingGuadeloupe. are richinhistoryandcultureoneofourmust-seelandmarksisFortNapoleon, lovely spot,beitabeach,hilltopvistaorhistoricallandmark.TheIlesdesSaintes catch oftheday,humwithactivity. more andbyeveningtherestaurants,offeringseafoodspecialsoffishermen’s our earlier thenextmorning. deterred, werepeatedthesecondmoststrenuouswalkonTerre-de-Hautmuch Below: AtypicalSaintoisehome Above: Theworth-the-climbviewfromLeChameau 11‘2“ (340cm)99lb(45kg) 10’2” (310cm)92lb(42kg) 8’10” (270cm)86lb(39kg) 7’10” (240cm)75lb(34kg) 6’ 7”(200cm)46lb(21kg) AVAILABLE: Transporthasneverbeeneasier–withnofloorboards Follow anyroadbeyondthevillageofLeBourgandyouwillendupatsome walk AirDeckboatscanbestowedmostanywhere. lk up ththe • Airfilledfloormakeskneelingorsittingextremelycomfortable • Easytocarry25%lighterthanwooden-floorinflatables stee t pro dt ad @ DUTY-FREEPrices & 4-Stroke) 2.5-350hp (2-Stroke ENGINES: dt oth th esu FEATURES mmit the fortclosesatnoon.Dismayedbutnot it WWe : arr DOMINICA MARINECENTER [email protected] Mercury Marine,YanmarMarine Sailmaker, SeaChoiceProducts idived Fax: 767-448-7701 VHF 16 Fax: 767-448-7701VHF16 18 Victoria Street, Roseau 18 VictoriaStreet,Roseau PM 767-448-2705 ExtMarine Budget Marine,Doyle at , theislandawakensonce t —Continued onnextpage ththe Dominica, WI Dominica, WI Dealer: ftfort Agent: The forthasbeen ent t ranc eat t tten to to DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

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The road makes numerous switchbacks numerous switchbacks The road makes open to the The tower at the peak is L I O as it winds its way to the summit, provid- as it winds its way to the summit, views of ing many spectacular birds-eye surrounding Terre-de-Haut and the to multitu- islands. Le Chameau is home goats that run dinous roosters, hens and their bleats wild up and down the slopes, an oth- and cock-a-doodles interrupting erwise serene environment. so the public and ladders are installed level of the brave of heart can climb each and dates watchtower to the roof. Names into the stone from the 1800s are etched household lad- wall. On my first visit here, labels in ders covered with yellow warning such a vertical French were mounted on my fear to plane that I could not get past the ladder to take the last few steps from listening jeal- the rooftop. I stood below “aahed” about ously as Dave “oohed” and the views. Later, when I saw his photos, I resolved to overcome my fear the next time we made the hike up Le Chameau. aa iin TT iis dd ww aa ee pp bb ww ffr ww dd FF pp tta tth oo tth rr tti A A U M - G E

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R : L O E TEL: 58 (281) 265-3844 - E-MAIL : [email protected] : [email protected] 58 (281) 265-3844 - E-MAIL TEL: T CORNER: MIRANDA CORNER: C THE CRUISING SAILOR`S CHANDLERY SINCE 1990 THE CRUISING SAILOR`S CHANDLERY AMERON ABC 3 TIN FREE SELF POLISHING ANTIFOULING PAINT AMERON will take the road to the left, passing a farm where goats are penned. Take the first where goats are penned. to the left, passing a farm will take the road Iles des Saintes perimeter of this farm. The which runs along the road to the right, road works its here to direct you. The and you will find signage are well signposted including some charming past well-tended properties way up the slopes, à louer designated park on your left. This is a to Le Chameau, a switchback the entrance way to get to the so footin’ it is the only vehicles are forbidden, area and motorized take you past on the main road, it would note, if you were to continue top. (As a side Anse). on to the beach at Petite Le Pain De Sucre Right: A model ship at Fort Napoleon Continued from previous page Continued from To reach Le Chameau, take the shoreline road south through Le Bourg until you To reach Le Chameau, take the shoreline road south The most strenuous walk Terre-de-Haut has to offer is to Le Chameau, located at The most strenuous walk Terre-de-Haut has to offer is At the museum entrance we were given a guide to the perimeter walk through a through a a guide to the perimeter walk entrance we were given At the museum Above: Follow any road and you will end up at some lovely spot, such as the hill Above: Follow any road and you will end up at some lovely the background above Grande Anse beach, with Guadeloupe visible in pass the commercial pier. Shortly beyond this, you will come to a junction where you pass the commercial pier. Shortly beyond this, you will the southwest end of the island. Le Chameau rises 313 meters, making it the tallest the southwest end of the island. Le Chameau rises 313 stands sentinel. The walk peak on the island. Here the old Tour Modèle watchtower a half hours or so, depending from town to the peak of Le Chameau takes one and the numerous picturesque on the pace you set and how often you stop to photograph before the heat of the day vistas along the way. I recommend an early morning start, sets in, and bring plenty of water with you. well-tended botanical garden featuring many exotic cacti and succulents. The views The views exotic cacti and succulents. garden featuring many well-tended botanical of maritime, houses a rich collection spectacular. The museum all around are shots were ever and artwork. Although no cultural history, artifacts military and Battle of the site of the April 12th, 1782 Napoleon, it overlooks the fired from Fort houses a One hall of the museum the British and the French. Saintes between of some of with miniature replicas of this decisive battle, complete detailed history the battleships. — DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 intent onclimbingthestairsuptoTheArtStudio.restofusoptedwaitfor Fort NapoleonwithfriendsJakeandCarol( steps toreachit.Thedaywestoppedherehadjustreturned,hotandtired,from residence. Thestudiositshighabovetheroadandyouneedtoclimbanumberof 60 RueJeanCalo,you’llseeasignforTheArtStudio,whereMauriceistheartistin case borderedbybougainvillea,smallvillasandshops.Rightnearthisjunction,at Follow thesignsforPlagedel’AnseMire.Thisroutetakesyoudownanarrowstair- quiet corneroftheislandbeyondGrandeAnsebeach,whichisworthcheckingout. through thenarrowgapbetweenhills.Thisupperroadleadstoamoreobscure, to thissecondroutebecauseIenjoywatchingtheplanesapproachairport second isjustsouthoftownandtakesyouonthehighsideairport.I’mpartial lead tothisbeachfromtown.You’llfindthefirstjustpastpolicestation.The wind andsea;however,it’sawonderfulspotforthoselookingsolitude.Tworoads ward sideattheendofairportrunway.Thissweepingbeachisunprotectedfrom can beunpredictablewithswellsstirringupthebottom,limitingvisibility. keled thisbay,aswellBaiedeMarigot,buthavebeendisappointed,conditions Above: OnSaturdays,don’tmissthemorningmarket — matic cliffsoftheruggedisletsthatwraparoundbay,protectingit. comfortable respitefromthesun.Weenjoywalkingstretchofbeachtodra- the walkherecanbehot.Palmandalmondtreeslinesandybeach,providing tasty dailybarbecuealongwithcoldbeverages,somethingwe’veappreciatedbecause the windwardside.Ashortdistancebeforebeach,alocalresidentservesup two hills. Haut, itsmanybeaches,bays,andtheairstripnestledinanarrowvalleybetween es below.Fromthisvantagepoint,wecouldeasilyseetheallpointsofTerre-de- Stooping, Ipeeredthroughthewell-preservedmusketslatswhichframedimag- white knuckles,ImademywayontotherooftopwhereI,too,“oohed”and“aahed”. One otherfavoritewalkofmineisalongthewaterfrontroadnorthoutLeBourg. A quieterbeachwhichweenjoywalkingisGrandeAnse,alsolocatedonthewind- The mostvisitedandpicturesquebeachonTerre-de-HautisPlagedePompierre The followingseasonwerepeatedthehikeandthistime,withgrittedteeth Continued frompreviouspage B &CFUELSENTERPRISE Tel/Fax: (473)443-9110email: [email protected] Easily approachedfromCarriacou, UnionI.,PalmI.&PSV FUEL •OILWATERICE Contact: GlennClementorReynold Belmar The bestfueldockintheGrenadinesfor: Cheapest pricesintheGrenadines Unobstructed dockincalmwater Suitable forLargePowerYachts 16-18 feetofwateralongside Petite Martinique Right: Afishermanscaleshiscatchoftheday:redsnapper S/V Offline ). Jake,anartisthimself,was We’ve snor- a finewineinordertoappreciatealltheyhaveoffer. little outofsomuch.MyexperienceisthattheIlesdesSaintesarebestsavoredlike trying toseeallofNewYork’sMetropolitanArtMuseuminthreehours:yougetso whisk yourwaytoallpointsinamatterofday.However,Ithinkthatwouldbelike good useenjoyingafresh to getfaxedGuadeloupeforclearance,althoughwe’dalwaysputthatwaittime has beenupdatedandcomputerized.Nomorewaiting45to60minutesforyourpapers de SucreoffTerre-de-HautandAnseSousleVentIlet-à-Cabrit. from shoreadjacenttothelocalwatersportclub.We’vealsoenjoyedsnorkelingPain French angels,puffers,porcupinefish,lobstersandeelsonthesmallreefextending snorkeling spots.We’veseenadiverseselectionofmarinefishincludingQueenand if you’reoneofthemoreadventurous,hewillgreetyouwithtrueislandhospitality. night.’ ‘Butyoupaintedhim?’‘Yes,’hesays.” painting ofaRasta.Iask,‘Whoisthat?’Mauricesays.‘Healmostkilledmeone cigarettes. Ibuyapaintingfor18Euro.Hegivesmeanotherone.lookat ‘I needtogetmypaintingsontheInternetsoIcanrich.’givehimapackof about. ‘I’dhaveachickeninthisifBlackie(hiscat)wouldgetmeone,’hesnickers. cooks astewaswetalk:plantains,onions,rice,peppersandmore.Chickensstrut tells meIcanrentastudiofor20Euroday.amtemptedbutwillmoveon.He rum, canesyrupandlimewithaspeciallittlespoontostirit.Isipitwetalk.He sieur, d’accord,’Isay.Hemakesa get home.Welcome.’Hesaystome,‘Youwantrum,wineorcoffee?’‘Rhum,mon- don’t gointotowntosellmyworkanymore.Idrinktoomuchandspenditbefore tale ofhisvisitwithMaurice: reappeared withtwosmallpaintingsinhand.Jakeproceededtoshareusthe we werejustabouttocastlotsonwhowouldclimbthestepsretrieveJake,he him intheshadeoftreebelow.Wewaited,andwaited.Finally,when

● ● ● ● ● ● TYRREL BAYYACHTHAULOUT If yourtimeintheIlesdesSaintesislimited,youcanrentamotorscooterand A recentpieceofgoodnewsforcruisersistheclearing-inprocessonIlesdesSaintes The waterontheleesideofIlesdesSaintesisclearandoffersanumbergreat According toMaurice,nottoomanypeopleventureupthestepshisstudio,but “The oldpainter,Maurice:‘Youarethefirstpersontovisitmeinthreeweeks.I

New environmentallyfriendlyhaulout Chandlery Mini -Marina Do ityourselforlabouravailable Water 50-ton hoist,18ftbeam,8ftdraft croissant-du-chocolat ’ti punch www.carriacouboatyard.com , shortforpetitpunch:ashotofwhite VHF: [email protected] and coffee at the local patisserie. andcoffeeatthelocalpatisserie. Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 CARRIACOU DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 9 10 11 12 1554 1654 13 1715 14 1758 15 1844 16 1933 17 2025 18 2121 19 2219 20 2318 21 0000 (full) 22 0015 23 0111 24 0204 25 0256 26 0348 27 0439 28 0532 29 0817 0626 30 0912 0721 31 1005 Zar-Par 21 22 23 0000 (full) 24 0036 25 0133 26 0229 27 0321 28 0412 29 0642 0502 30 0735 0552 31 0829 January 2011 DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 0925 5 1022 6 1118 7 1211 8 1301 1346 (new) 1432 1513 Haiti Cruising Guide Dominican Republic Republic Dominican Cruising Guide Jamaica Cruising Guide Trinidad Cruising Guide www.marinazarpar.com OF THE MOON Boca Chica, Dominican Republic Boca Chica,

DECEMBER & JANUARY www.dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com www.haiticruisingguide.com www.jamaicacruisingguide.com www.trinidadruisingguide.com M MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE Marina Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire Compliments of December 2010 DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 0755 5 0847 6 0941 7 1038 8 1136 (new) 9 1233 10 1329 11 1423 12 1509 1555 13 1637 14 1718 15 1758 16 1839 17 1921 18 2006 19 2054 20 2145 2240 2338 make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. tide the floods from west to east. Times given are local. charts. Fair tides! FREE CRUISING GUIDES CRUISING FREE you

World World , from ). and/or the and/or the

heading east. If

If you sail west As Jimmy Cornell As Jimmy Cornell Cruising Routes Jamaica you can eas- ily go north through the Windward Passage to the Bahamas and on to the east coasts of the United States and Canada. Or you can go northwest and access Cuba. points out in his indis- pensable can go to the Cayman Islands Bay Islands of Honduras. Thereafter one can easily make Rio Dulce in Guatemala and then head north to Belize and Mexico.

WORLD CRUISING ROUTES / JIMMY CORNELL Caribbean Compass west, off the coast of Nicaragua are the Colombian

BY FRANK VIRGINTINO BY FRANK THE FORGOTTEN CARIBBBEAN CARIBBBEAN THE FORGOTTEN From Jamaica, Going North, West or South From Jamaica, Going North, cruising the island of Jamaica is that when it comes One of the nicest things about Frank Virgintino is the author of Free Cruising Guides (www.freecruisingguide.com). In Conclusion This series of articles started with a discussion of the definition of “the Caribbean”. Depending on how far west you are, the best route is often to head for the eastern The greatest protection is afforded by Cuba and Hispaniola, off their respective Many mariners have simply given up while trying to beat eastward from any point Getting Out of ‘the Hole’ The Caribbean Sea is not a small sea and should be taken seriously. Roughly mea- The best way to go east is by using the katabatic winds of Jamaica and Hispaniola The best way to go east is by using the katabatic winds From Jamaica, Going East south from Jamaica, the trip For those that do not want to continue west, north or The Western Caribbean is remote. You will find it different in many respects from The Western Caribbean is remote. You will find it different From the San Blas Islands to the The San Blas Islands are a taste of the Pacific in the Caribbean Sea. This archi- The San Blas Islands are a taste of the Pacific in the Colombia is a safe area to cruise and Cartagena is an extraordinary stop and well Colombia is a safe area to cruise and Cartagena is an To the south of Jamaica are Colombia, the San Blas Islands and the Colombian To the south of Jamaica are Colombia, the San Blas JAMAICA AS A STAGING POINT JAMAICA AS time to depart, you find yourself well situated to continue on to so many more really well situated to continue on to so many more really time to depart, you find yourself great cruising areas. Part IV: Part IV: Hopefully, for those of us who have sailed or plan to sail only on the “beaten track” from the Virgin Islands to Grenada, it is now apparent that “the Caribbean” is some- thing much larger than originally thought. In an area of more than a million square miles the Caribbean Sea has more than 7,000 islands, islets, reefs and cays. One could cruise the Caribbean — the whole Caribbean — for an entire lifetime and per- haps never cover it all. tip of Jamaica, at Port Morant. The harbor is delightful and very safe. There is a coast guard station there, as well as clearance facilities. Then proceed eastward using the same strategy as noted above, utilizing the katabatic winds along the south coasts of Hispaniola and Puerto Rico to your advantage. you are headed to the southeastern part of the Lesser Antilles, such a strategy requires double the sea miles. However, the difference in conditions is so significant as to make the extra miles well worth the effort. south coasts, which provide protection against the Atlantic Ocean as well as winds from the north and northeast. Therefore, while it is not readily apparent, the best strategy to get out of the southwestern “hole” is to go north before west of Colombia. The largest seas in the Caribbean will be on your nose, as well as unabated tradewinds and an adverse current. sured it is 1,800 miles from east to west and 700 miles from north to south. The feistiest seas are often found in the southwest corner, in the area of Colombia and west of Colombia. Here seas can easily exceed ten feet in normal tradewind condi- tions. This is because of the fetch — an open sea distance of more than 1,200 miles from the Eastern Caribbean islands to Panama. to make the trip between the two islands at night in what are usually very light winds to make the trip between the two islands at night in what is above 20 knots during the (except early in the tradewind season when the wind of Hispaniola, one can transit day, or when a “norther” is blowing). Once to the coast east and arrive at Isla Saona the coast at night in the island’s lee from the west to the is south of the Mona Passage at the east end of the Dominican Republic. This island from the mountains of the DR and, again with the use of katabatic winds that come Rico, one can make easting as well as the same winds from the mountains of Puerto along the south shore of Puerto Rico at night relatively easily all the way to the Spanish Virgins and the Virgin Islands. east is against wind and current. the Eastern Caribbean. Many of the countries you will visit have a larger landmass the Eastern Caribbean. Many of the countries you will countries and the cul- than the Eastern Caribbean Islands. They are “mainland” different from those of the tures — from music to food to manners — are markedly Eastern Caribbean. pelago of islands, while part of Panama, is operated independently and its culture is pelago of islands, while part of Panama, is operated independently The inhabitants are Native very different from the other Caribbean cultures. be hard pressed to believe you Americans. They have their own language and you will are still cruising the Caribbean. worth the visit. We can cruise the coast of Colombia, taking advantage of the worth the visit. We can cruise the coast of Colombia, San Blas Islands. tradewinds and the westerly current until we make the and an exciting stop (see islands of San Andres and Providencia; either is a safe article on Providencia in the September 2010 issue of islands of Providencia and San Andres off of the east coast of Nicaragua. islands of Providencia and San Andres off of the east DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 and anexpecteddateofarrival.Acurrenthealthcertificate(ideallyfromthecountry e-mail orfaxittotheAgricultureDepartment,togetherwithdog’shealthrecords DHCCP Certificate,treatmentforparasites,HealthCertificate information aswedid.ThisistheCaribbeanafterall! be asurprise.Icannotguaranteethatyouwillreceivethesametreatment,feesor checking intothecountries.Whetherthingsgoasplannedorexpectedwillalways ing theCaribbeanwithyourdoginvolvesandhopefullywillmakethingseasierwhen on-line regulationsandourownexperience.Itwillgiveyouanideaaboutwhatcruis- based oncorrespondencewithgovernmentofficialsandagriculturedepartments, Islands andtheLeewards.Thismonthwe’llcontinuesouthward.informationis for yourdogintheEasternCaribbeanislands.LastmonthwelookedatVirgin Eastern Caribbean • Allslipswithfingers • Shorepower30,50and100amps • ABYCcertifiedmachanics • 70TonTravelift(30'beam) • Slipsto120’withdepth10’ • HighQualityShelteredMoorings Procedure: Fillouttheapplicationformforanimportpermit(availableon-line)and Requirements: Website: www.slumaffe.org(VeterinaryandLivestocklink) Fax: (758)450-4581 Phone: E-mail: Contact: Dr.AuriaKing-Cenac,SharmineMelville St. Lucia With thefollowingoverviewIwilltrytoinformyouaboutcheck-inprocedures Zar-Par Marina Visit: marinazarpar.comemail: [email protected] M TRINIDAD &TOBAGOANDBARBADOS

Government VetOffice:(758)468-5621or468-5623 [email protected], [email protected] with YourDog a

PART TWO:THEWINDWARDS, Tel: 8095235858VHF Channel 5 Cruising the

Microchip, RabiesCertificate(<1year),Titer(<2years), r Cell phone,Dr.Melville:(758)460-6889

Z i THE by LiesbetCollaert

FOCAL POINT FORCRUISING YACHTSMEN &7milesEastofInternationalAirport • 12milesEastofSantoDomingo • DinghyDock • FreeWIFIandInternet • Immigrationofficeinthemarinaforclearance • Showers,Laundry,Restaurant,24hrsecurity 69.36.67W 18.25.50N He willcometothemarina/dock. Customs officercancalltheAgricultureDepartmenttosetupameetingwithvet. your dogintoSt.LuciaisstraightforwardandeasyinRodneyBay.Eitheryouorthe year, buttheprivatee-mailaddressesabovewillgetaconversationgoing.Checking (EC$65) whenapplyingforthepermituponarrival(requirestwovisitsofvet) onshore withoutapermit. scan themicrochip,bringapermitandcollectfee.ThedogisNOTallowed call thevetofficetoarrangeatimeforoneofvetscomeandinspectdog, Customs, ImmigrationandthePortOffice(allinsameroomRodneyBay) previously visited)isrequireduponarrival.WhenarrivinginSt.Lucia,checkwith —Continuedonnextpage to thesouthcoastofSt.Vincent,andanchororpickupamooringatYoungIslandCut. the DepartmentofAgricultureeitherbytaxi,hitchingarideorprivatetransportation).Sail are comingfrom(St.Luciaistheobviouschoice.Thereyouwillhavetotakeyourdog arrival. ObtainaGovernmentIssuedHealthCertificatefromtherabies-freecountryyou Fax ore-mailtheapplicationwithdog’shealthrecordsandanestimateddateof Government IssuedExportHealthCertificate(important!),treatmentforparasites he/she isnotallowedintheircountry. Lucia, solocalsmightaskyouwhetheryourdogisclearedinorwronglytellthat area. AllowingforeigndogsintothecountryisarelativelynewdevelopmentinSt. been askedforitbyanImmigrationofficialwalkingaroundtheRodneyBayMarina advised tokeepthepermitwithyoueachtimetakeyourdogshore.Wehave Castries). OurexperienceinSoufrierewasexpensiveandunprofessional.Itis phone numberoracall,andthevetofficeisnottoofaraway(towards has beendonebyothercruisersmanytimesbefore,Customscanhelpwiththe Left: TheauthorandDarwinbeachcombingintheTobagoCays Above: Cruisin’andsnoozin’—boatdogDarwinaboard Located neartheentranceofNanny Cay Nanny Cay, Tortola, BVI Experience: Thee-mailaddressavailableon-linehasbeenhavingproblemsfora Fee: US$18(EC$45)whenapplyingforapermitaheadoftime(preferred);orUS$26 Procedure: Contact the vet department to obtain an application for an import permit. Procedure: Contactthevetdepartmenttoobtainanapplicationforimportpermit. Requirements: Microchip,RabiesCertificate,TiterDHCCP Website: www.gov.vc Fax: (784)457-1688 Phone: GovernmentVetOffice:(784)450-0326or457-2452 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: St. Vincent&theGrenadines Remarks: ThebestplacetoarriveinSt.LuciaisRodneyBay,wheretheprocess Cell phone,Dr.Glasgow:(784)493-0575

Dr. GlasgoworHackshaw www.quantumsails.com l t. 2844941124 l e. [email protected] free withevery sail Clean, renewable fuel Irie Pick upanddrop off New canvas andcanvas repair Convenient location loft Full salesandservice Largest loftintheBVI SAIL DESIGNGROUP DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 with her S/V Irie www.boatersenterprise.com/content/pet_quarantine.html Rosina Maitland

When checking into Grenada, pets have to be declared on the Customs be declared on the Customs into Grenada, pets have to When checking

Ask for import permit by e-mail and get this faxed or e-mailed to you. permit by e-mail and get Ask for import Complete an application form (available on-line), pay the fee, give three Complete an application form (available on-line), pay the

Ministry of Agriculture http://agriculture.gov.bb Animal Health Dr.

[email protected], [email protected] [email protected], [email protected] (868) 625-5997 or 625-1473 US$1.50 (TT$10) per day for a six-month quarantine US$1.50 (TT$10) per day for fee US$1.50 (TT$10) for the landing US$30 (BDS$60) landing fee www.pettravel.com www.petfriendlytravel.com

US$12.50 (BDS$25) permit fee

Grenada Contact: E-mail: or 440-3078 or 440-3083 Phone: (473) 440-2708 Fax: (473) 440-4191 Website: www.gov.gd/ministries/agriculture.html Procedure: Fee: Free Experience: E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Phone: (246) 427-5073 or 427-5492 Fax: (246) 429-2143 Website: United Kingdom, Ireland, Requirements: Dog has to be imported directly from the Procedure: Fee: Remarks: No response was received when using the government e-mail address. received when using the government e-mail address. Remarks: No response was Trinidad & Tobago Contact: E-mail: Phone: Fax: (868) 625-5993 Website: www.agriculture.gov.tt be landed in Trinidad requires one to six months’ Procedure: Every pet to officially for a 30-day quarantine Fee: US$3 (TT$20) per day the country, your dog has to be declared and paper- Remarks: When checking into Barbados Contact: Other Useful Information the rabies and DHCCP shots In conclusion, it is a good idea to stay up to date with where rabies exists or after The overview is based on a dog coming from a country require more effort, hassle, Declaring your dog the “right” way will, of course, on Liesbet Collaert is a freelance writer who lives and cruises Australia or New Zealand OR must have been living continuously for six months in Australia or New Zealand OR must have been living continuously the Grenadines, St. Lucia or Antigua & Barbuda, St. Kitts & Nevis, St. Vincent & Jamaica prior to entering Barbados. transportation information, days notice of the dog’s expected arrival date, along with pet owner and name import permit number, name, address and contact information and information customs broker. form, but no questions are asked. It is recommended that you have the dog’s paper- that you have are asked. It is recommended form, but no questions act responsibly. work on board and that you instead, or better yet, phone. Use the personal e-mail address at from a rabies-free country where he/she resided for quarantine, unless coming least six months. has to remain on the boat, which counts as quarantine. work presented. Then he/she your dog. Together with a and have current health and vaccination records for your pet’s requirements proper way of identification (microchip), this mostly covers generally valid for one month. for the Eastern Caribbean islands. Import permits are in some islands. Please note that certain aggressive breeds are not allowed for over six months in a brief stay in a rabies-free country. If your dog was stationed rabies-free country, every- a rabies-free country before (non-stop) arriving in another thing is much easier. for some quick walks or planning and money than just sneaking him/her ashore governments make it easy, confining him/her on board. If the respective island by the rules, however, check- straightforward and affordable for pet owners to abide all cruising dogs could enjoy ing a pet into the country would be no issue and walks without questions unlimited sniffs in the countryside and super long beach sailing and exploring for asked or nervous looks over the shoulder. Here’s to happy our furry companions! partner, Mark, and their dog, Darwin. For more stories and pictures, check out their partner, Mark, and their dog, Darwin. For more stories website www.itsirie.com. S A

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BIMINI & DODGER SS Paradise — Paradise Beach on Carriacou Continued from previous page Continued from is

Remarks: The e-mail address is known to have problems, so to save a lot of frustra- Remarks: The e-mail address is known to have problems, Experience: After trying to figure all this out for months and skipping the area out for months and skipping trying to figure all this Experience: After Fee: Free from Monday to Friday before 4:00 Monday to Friday before Fee: Free from Forty-eight hours notice of arrival must be given. Once in Young Island Cut or another given. Once in Young Island notice of arrival must be Forty-eight hours Located opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 tion, phoning might be the better plan. The information available about importing a tion, phoning might be the better plan. The information await quarantine and then dog in SVG states that the dog first has to fly to the UK, has recently become more be transported to SVG by plane. The government of SVG visit with their dogs. Be aware lenient with their rules because of cruisers wanting to cruisers. You will be ques- that not everybody knows about those “new rules” for by officials and locals in tioned (and directed to “put your dog back on the yacht”) that you always carry your bigger towns where you walk your pet. It is recommended permit and inspection are import permit with you. Even though the actual import country prior to arriving in free, the costs of checking everybody into a rabies-free island anyway), obtaining an SVG (not a problem if you planned on visiting this phone calls to St. Vincent to Export Health Certificate and making the necessary make the whole process work, can add up. (Grenada is not rabies free). Once we got in touch with the department and got the (Grenada is not rabies free). Once we got in touch with we met the vet on shore. Dr. procedure straight, all went smoothly from the moment to deal with. Glasgow is very understanding, efficient and professional It twice, we were persistent and managed to visit SVG with our dog, which is possible to visit SVG with our dog, persistent and managed twice, we were in order to arrive from Martinique, only to learn (after but hard. We had everything inquiries and one final phone call that got through) that tons of unanswered e-mail Health Certificate has to be issued in a rabies- this was impossible. The Government only leaves St. Lucia as “previously visited country”. free country, which basically with all the required documents have been denied Dogs coming from Grenada anchorage close by (such as Blue Lagoon), call the vet department to set up an appoint- call the vet department to set by (such as Blue Lagoon), anchorage close the dog and dock, where she will inspect vet at the Young Island ferry ment. Meet the Continue permit is valid for three months. issue the import permit. The paperwork and yourself and the boat in. (Bequia, for example) to check somewhere else — DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 to makedoandimprovise:‘Idecidedbuildmyownself-steeringsystem’ ‘Since arrivingintheCaribbean27yearsago,authorhasoftenfounditnecessary

[email protected] www.barefootyachts

Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL

Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters —Continuedonnextpage stresses causedbythestays’l. and wealreadyhadastays’l.Wetofitrunningbackstayscopewiththe sprit outofDouglasfirandtheresultswerespectacular.Flohand-sewedayankee way tomakeaboatsteeritselfandasconsequence,Ibuiltnicemetre-longbow- the sailsarebalanced.ReadingHiscocks’booksdidalotformyknowledgeof hours on,twooff.Needlesstosay,wewereverytiredbythetimemadelandfall. anyone wholeavestheirnicecozylifesomethingofafool? keep fromdivingintothewind.“Fool,”yousay,andyesit’strue,butthen,isn’t It wasexpedienttolooponelegoverthetillerandfirmlygripankleinorder been aboutthreefeetfartherforward,butalas,therewasnosticktoputitoutthere. ing amountofweatherhelmwasproducedbythatgiantredgennyoughttohave didn’t pullfastenough,itwasnecessarytoluffupgetmoresailin. back tothemiddleofcabintop.Tackingwithoutwincheswasinteresting:ifyou U-shaped bracketonthestem,wereintendedforsupportofthatparticularspar. realized thatthelittleslotcutintofrontofSamsonpost,andinverted she hadnobowsprit—though,ifIalittlemoreexperience,wouldhave autopilot, sincetherewasnoenginetochargethebatteries.WhenIboughtboat, kind ofself-steeringdeviceonthestern.Itwasalsoimpracticaltofitanelectrical owing tothelengthofboom.Becausethis,itwaswell-nighimpossiblefitany Marconi rig,featuringaveryhighmastthatneededboomkintoholdthebackstay and onemetrethirty(fourfeetthreeinches)acrossthebeam.Shewasbuiltwitha steering aboat,witheithertillerorwheel,isverytiringoccupation. Custom Self-Steering, Caribbean Style It tookafewmoretripslikethatuntilwediscoveredboatsteerseasierwhen It tookussevendaystocompletethattrip,andwehadsteerthewholeway,two The firsttripmypartnerFloandItookwasfromSt.TropeztoMajorca.Anamaz- She cameequippedwithagiganticredgenoathatsweptthedeckandreached Cap Horn I don’tknowhowmanymileshavesteeredmyvariousyachtsbutdothat was a 1933 Brittany cutter, six-and-a-half metres (21 feet four inches) long wasa1933Brittanycutter,six-and-a-halfmetres(21feetfourinches)long by DudleyCampling .com DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 New Services:

AIR AMBULANCE NEW JET ADDED TO THE FLEET! THE TO ADDED JET NEW FLIGHTS TO & FROM ST. LUCIA LUCIA & FROM ST. TO FLIGHTS The device itself went through many modifications over several years of tinkering. The device itself went through many modifications over control cable to transfer the The breakthrough finally came when I used a Morse rudder allows the boat There are several advantages to this system. The secondary steel and discarded parts. Popeye, my self-steerer, is made of scraps of stainless Caribbean, to make do and I have found that it is often necessary, while in the of them are a bit more Those same workshops are still in the Caribbean; some One way or another, it is feasible to construct a working steering device in the I decided to build my own system. There are several good solutions on the market, are several good solutions my own system. There I decided to build it would be autopilots, I decided that various types of wind-powered After studying tion. All this time, the primary rudder is used to give a little bit of weather helm, after tion. All this time, the primary rudder is used to give a the self-steering to do as little the sails are pulling well and balanced. This allows herself. work as possible; i.e. the boat should be almost steering of them related to sloppy Lots of mistakes were made in the earliest versions, most message from the wind vane bearings and over-complicated linkages. By the time the doing something else. reached the rudder, it was too late and the boat was to be very sensitive and power from the wind vane to the trim tab. This has proved end. direct, since the only bearings involved are at each cable rudderpost, and the Morse to be manually steered via a short tiller attached to the an optimum position. cable linkage allows the wind vane to be mounted in with a bent rudderpost that I For instance, the rudder came from an old wind pilot pipe. The pintles on the tran- straightened and sleeved over with a bit of galvanized the counterweight of the hori- som are from an old boat trailer’s axles. The lead for that some stupid person had zontally pivoted wind vane originated in an old battery fire on the beach and molded dumped in the sea. I rescued it, melted the lead over a to a sawn-off, long stain- it in an old tuna can. This marvel of technology was bolted wind vane assembly. less swage fitting from an old stay and welded to the a store, though more recently, improvise things that would normally be bought from thanks to the internet. I it is possible to get things sent to anywhere in the world, in 1983. The roads in St. guess I have a hangover from the time we arrived here goats and very few cars. Johns, Antigua were mud tracks, populated by chickens, were mostly like black- Bequia had even fewer paved roads back then and workshops keep a boat running. smith’s shops. It was necessary to be very inventive to machines, etcetera, and if you sophisticated than others, having lathes and milling islands for very reasonable cannot weld it is possible to get jobs done in most of the prices. Bequia in the Grenadines is a very surprising place in that you can get virtu- ally anything made there that is related to boats. Bequia has a long history of boat- building and many of its inhabitants have a working knowledge of seamanship. islands, without a huge layout of cash. since it consumed enough electricity to power a small town while it worked, though power a small town while it enough electricity to since it consumed really did. for me, it never a full-keeled of vessel. However, since I have perfect for a certain type each one being greatly reduced. steering system were of designing an efficient ketch, my problems balance by play- the ketch rig is easy to gives directional stability and The long keel bits of string. ing with the various is very large and The primary rudder secondary rudder to the transom. best to add a transom, could a secondary rudder, at the forward. I figured that placed a fair way tab the same effect as the primary. If I added a trim be a lot smaller and have almost to rudder, I wouldn’t need much force from a wind vane to the back of the second the as the trim tab is very slim, it is easier to turn in turn the boat. In other words, action turns the secondary rudder in the desired direc- water, and then hydraulic

. Cap Horn’s Mandalay At this point, we could to get a bit more bit more to get a string involved in the We would and elastic. stays’l, slightly back the sheet to and run the windward via a block and thence to the tiller. To leeward, we attached a bungee cord between the tiller and the cock- pit coaming. navigate after a fashion and managed to dis- cover the Canary Islands using dead reckoning and rumour. During the six months we spent in Tenerife, I learned celestial navi- gation from a real sailor and built two poles for our downwind trip to the Caribbean. In prin- ciple, the downwind rig performed miraculous- ly. It involved two high- on the beach and molded in an old tuna can . Even so, I was pretty nervous as we entered beating up from Canouan to Bequia as her , is a whole different story. She is made of steel, is Cap Horn Cap Horn Folkloric Far right: Lead for the counterweight was melted over a fire Far right: Lead for the counterweight was melted over would steer herself on any course where the wind was forward of on any course where would steer herself was great, but not very big to live in, so, it was time for a bigger boat. I was great, but not very big to live in, so, it was time came equipped with a powerful Neco electronic autopilot. This had to go Cap Horn Continued from previous page Continued from Two years in Antigua was a whole new form of life for us and it was difficult to Two years in Antigua was a whole new form of life for Cap Horn By the time we reached Antigua we had pretty much mastered the foibles and By the time we reached Antigua we had pretty much Folkloric In the end, we flew the yankee (spitfire jib) to port and the stays’l to starboard, util- In the end, we flew the yankee (spitfire jib) to port and Our most recent yacht, Now, I am only writing this for those cruisers whose budget is limited and who rely The same rig allowed us to steer a little off the wind if we changed the angle of the The same rig allowed us to steer a little off the wind if Rigged like this, we were able to leave the Mediterranean and head for the Canary Mediterranean and head we were able to leave the Rigged like this, of those giant Atlantic rollers It was very satisfying to see the tiller twitch when one Above: ‘Popeye’ at work underway power from the wind vane Near right: ‘I used a Morse control cable to transfer the to the trim tab’ break away from there in order to continue our rambles. Sailing south to Bequia, we break away from there in order to continue our rambles. at anchor in each. stopped in every island and spent at least one night nuances of using sails to steer the windjammer English Harbour under sail and anchored just behind if the wind was always on the sails steered us most of the time since it seemed as for easy sail balancing. nose in every direction and that was always the best will never forget the sight of ising the two halves of the broken pole. If I were to build a rig like that again, I wouldising the two halves of the broken pole. If I were to build We found that, even withcarry several twins without hanks and of differing sizes. of wave and wind conditions.unmatched sails, the boat steered perfectly in all kinds on skills to solve problems, rather than reaching into that often-empty pocket. If you have a steel boat, it seems to me to be a pretty good idea to learn to weld. This acquired skill, plus a welding machine, saves you 50 bucks or so an hour. poles in relation to the hull by lengthening the appropriate sheet. Unfortunately, our poles in relation to the hull by lengthening the appropriate consequence of this was that, two sails were too large and not high cut enough. The sail in the water. This had the on one particularly large roll, we dipped the starboard pole in two. effect of wiping out two stanchions and snapping the us, he sat on the cabintop new owner put her through her paces. As he sailed past playing his trumpet and not a hand for the tiller. ketch with a full-length 46 feet on deck and grosses 28 tons, and is a cutter-headed self-steering device keel. We have plenty of space to put some kind of wind-powered since she has a wide transom. Islands. back on course for the palm pushed the stern over as she started to surf, and put her trees, hummingbirds and iguanas. — various strings of messing around with the by balancing the sails (lots the mast, just it was necessary abeam or on the quarter, found that if the wind was involved). We space between them at the cut jibs, flying from the base of the mast with a two-foot The sheets for the two jibs foot. The two poles were rigged horizontally with uphauls. back to the tiller via snatch went through rings on the outer ends of the poles, then until they were at about 45 blocks on the rail. The poles were allowed to go forward degrees to each other before being attached to the tiller. DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 out andyouwon’tgetstung. while VenusisoppositeyouinScorpio.Keepagoodlook- up foraromanticbliponyourradar. day projectsorcreativeonboardrepairs.Thiswillfreeyou be donealone. take asolosailorconcentrateonprojectsaboardthatcan mental energiesovertheholidays. day mood. there willonlyfoulyourbottomandcouldruinholi- affairs, butsailonpastcreativeprojectsasanyattempts Christmas carolsandnoonewillnoticeyou’renottalking. express yourselfclearlyuntilmonth’send.Justhumafew and don’tletoutsideinfluencesblowyouoffit. next fiveweeks.Enjoy. then itwillbetimetogetintotheholidayspirit! you runoutofsteamandenthusiasm.Don’tworry;by sailing life.Santamightbebringingyouanewloveinterest. helm whileweatheringminorsquallsinyourlovelife. just listen,asyoumightlearnsomethingnew. improve intheNewYear.Meanwhile,itwouldn’thurtto you’re ‘breakingup’,rememberthatpropagationwill DECEMBER 2010 Romance couldbearoughbeatforthenextfiveweeks While boatbusinessisinirons,passthetimewithholi- Bah, humbug!ThismonthwillbeagoodoneforLeosto Ho, ho,ho!Aharborromancewilltakeupmostofyour Spend timeatthehelmofyourbusinessorfinancial Might aswellturnofftheradio,youwillfeelunableto Steer acourseforboatbusinessinthecomingNewYear Hello, sailor!Loveandlustfillyouwithpassionforthe Concentrate onprojectsaboarduntilthe20th,when Don’t worry about a few setbacks in the creative areas of your Don’t worryaboutafewsetbacksinthecreativeareasofyour Steady asshegoes.Keeponehandonthebusiness Communications willbegarbleduntilmonth’send,soif SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

Christmas Before The Night “Merry Christmastoall,andallagoodnight!” And Iheardhimexclaimashesailedoutofsight But thedolphinsproceededtopullhimaround He gotclosetoshoreandhesoonwasaground I hopedhehadnotmanystopslefttomake. As hesailedawayleavingawobblywake Here’s toeverylastsailor,mybestChristmaswishes!” Or whateveryournamesare,youcutelittlefishes, On TevaandMountgay,Antigua,Barbuda! “On FattyandFoxyOldBarracuda! And calledtothedolphins,nowswimmingwithease: With aburpandchucklehegatheredthebreeze But theguyraisedagennyandmains’linstead. The dolphinswerereadytopowerthesled And thedudehoppedaboardandpreparedtomakeway. Eight tinydolphinsandabeautifulsleigh As Ipeekedbeheldanincrediblesight— Then hestaggeredabovetothedarktropicnight; Then Ipouredoneforme(Isureneededadrink!). And Ipouredhimagrogwhichhedownedwithwink I hopedhewasgivingandwasn’tjustselling I thoughtitwasstolenbutwasn’ttelling, And somekindoffancyelectricalthingy. Like rumandcigarsnewchartsadinghy But hegavemeawholebunchofstuffthatIneed, His eyeswerelituplikeajunkieonspeed So Ifiguredhemustbetheresidentdrunk. But helaughedandhummedassurveyedmyjunk He wasdressedlikeanutandIthought,“I’msoscrewed,” Then downthecompanionwayhatchcameadude; “I’ve beenboarded!”Ithought,andtriedtobetough. When uponthedeckIheardfootstepsandstuff Flaked outonthesettee,asleepwithmybook ’Twas thenightbeforeChristmas,Iswungonhook demand andit’sbecomeatradition! rounds anonymouslyforawhile,butwe’vepublisheditcoupleoftimesbypopular Editor’s note:Wedon’tknowwhooriginallywrotethispoemthat’sbeendoingthe [email protected] • www.frangipanibequia.com the frangipani hotel,bar&restaurant,bequia P.O. Box 1BQ,Bequia, St.Vincent &theGrenadines, W.I. Tel: (784)458-3255•Fax: (784)458-3824 — Cruiser Claus Donʼt missourThursdayBBQ& Jump up Spectacular views Fine dining•Excellentselectionofwines

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GUY DEAN GUY DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 It was a plastic tree It was but it looked so real but it looked that all the children loved it loved that all the children The next day was Christmas and after Petal and her grandmother had eaten a The next day was Christmas and after Petal and her has given me a present “Look Grandma!” she cried, “The Christmas Angel her all about finding the At first, Petal’s grandmother was doubtful, but Petal told THE END and yellow; six-pointed stars of silver twinkled like the stars in the night sky; porce- like the stars in the stars of silver twinkled and yellow; six-pointed with fine glass hand painted; songbirds little children were delicately lain figures of had never seen for flight. Although Petal wings looked ready tails and shimmering brown deer with she thought that little these on her tropical island, animals like to leap and play. foxes looked ready hedgehogs, and brushy-tailed white spots, shy lan- crystal hearts, glass bows like silk ribbons, little As well as all this there were silk a match, and the Christmas Angel dressed in white terns you could light with her shoulders and wings of pink and blue feathers. with a red velvet shawl around by pretty decorations on the branches of the tree and, Petal managed to hang these the Christmas Angel right on the top where the holy lady standing on a box, she put children. Petal wanted could smile down upon all the animals, birds and porcelain twilight rapidly faded she had to sit forever and look at her tree, but as the tropical to go home. delivered, Petal left the old Christmas lunch of good things that the neighbours had Petal was almost too fright- lady to rest while she ran off to see her Christmas tree. case it had all been a dream, ened to climb through the broken kitchen window in little girl hurried towards it but the Christmas tree was where she had left it. The with her name written on it: and then she saw, hanging on a branch, a package a box was an amethyst heart PETAL. She quickly ripped off the gold paper and inside chain around her small neck attached to a thin gold chain. Petal clipped the gold and ran home to show her grandma. for Christmas!” it beautiful again. Then her Christmas tree and how hard she’d worked to make child. You found your heart’s grandmother said, “Christmas is a time of miracles, desire, and it looks like the Christmas Angel found you.” CRUISING KIDS CORNER CRUISING by Lee Kessell

After that, Petal dragged the Christmas tree to the centre of the big sitting room After that, Petal dragged the Christmas tree to the centre But first the tree had to be cleaned, and that was no small job for such a little girl. But first the tree had to be cleaned, and that was no small Petal hurried over and, sure enough, it was an old plastic Christmas tree! Dirty, Petal hurried over and, sure enough, it was an old plastic Petal’s grandmother was so bone weary that she didn’t go out much, so Petal had bone weary that she didn’t go out much, so Petal had Petal’s grandmother was so The Christmas season had arrived. The sun shone down with a yellow brightness arrived. The sun shone down with a yellow brightness The Christmas season had Christmas Tree Christmas What’s a Parrot Head? Parrot Head is a commonly used nickname for a fan of sailing What’s a Parrot Head? Parrot Head Parrot Head clubs often hold ‘parties singer/songwriter Jimmy Buffett. various causes. with a purpose’, raising funds for Dolinski has created this puzzle. In honor of Parrot Heads, Pauline and using all her might, pulled it upright until it stood on it own red-painted stand. and using all her might, pulled it upright until it stood that must be somewhere and The next day, Petal looked about for the decorations and caps, she found the sure enough, under some old bundles of moldy aprons were so dirty she couldn’t decorations in a box. Petal took them out one by one. They each one, she sat back open tell what they were but when she had carefully cleaned ice drops caught the light mouthed with wonder. Petal’s eyes saw how the crystal green, dark blue, crimson and danced like rainbows; real glass balls shone forest Petal ran home and the next day she returned with a bag of old rags, a small piece Petal ran home and the next day she returned with a crept through the broken of kitchen soap and a bottle of water. Every day Petal until the old plastic tree kitchen window of the old house and cleaned and cleaned glowed like a fresh pine tree. bent, covered in cobwebs, it was a very sorry sight. Petal dragged it to the middle of bent, covered in cobwebs, it was a very sorry sight. Petal her mind’s eye she saw a won- the floor and gazed down upon her heart’s dream. In this is how it would be. derful new tree, fully decorated, and she determined that to amuse herself. She loved to wander about and poke her nose into strange places, to wander about and poke her nose into strange places, to amuse herself. She loved upon the old estate house. The “Great House” wasn’t and that is how she stumbled a very long time the tiled floors exactly a ruin but because it had been up for sale for and thick cobwebs. It took were cracked and broken and everywhere was dust, dirt her way through the weeds a long time for Petal to screw up enough courage to push kitchen window. It was so dark and bushes in the garden and climb through a broken green caught her eye. and spooky that Petal almost turned back when something on the small island in the Caribbean where little Petal lived with her old grand- on the small island in the was too poor to buy Christmas presents and Petal mother. Petal’s grandmother heart she longed for a Christmas tree like the one that understood that. But in her the big store on the main road of the village, assembled Mistress Jones, who owned it stood just inside the door. It was a plastic tree with every Christmas season where and but it looked so real that all the children loved it, branches that fitted together that went on it. they loved the decorations The Caribbean Caribbean The DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2010 © the attacker.Thetankers Harbour inAruba.Thetownwasbrilliantlylit,aiding on thesurfaceinsideareefinfrontofSanNicolas of ies. OnthenightofFebruary15th,1942,skipper Aruba andCuraçao,whichhadimportantoilrefiner- patrol craft.There,theytorpedoedmooredships. fined harboursorwithinrangeofcoastalgunsand submarine commanderstooktheirvesselsintocon- nevertheless tookplace.Theyweredaringactions.The as thoseinPuertoRico,AntiguaandTrinidad. patrol vesselsthatwerestationedonAlliedbasessuch perhaps bydivingdeep,fromtheattackingplanesand where thesubshadbetterchanceofgettingaway, area, losttheirlives.Thiswasintheshippinglanes chant mariners,includingsomefromtheCaribbean tankers weresenttothebottom.Hundredsofmer- Operation Neuland,dozensofAlliedfreightersand area. Othersweretofollow.Inthefirsttwomonthsof Guianas (thenBritish,DutchandFrenchGuiana). oil andaluminumorefromVenezuela,Trinidadthe The aimwasmainlytosinkAlliedshipsbringingvital Guianas andnortheasternBraziltostartafrontthere. (submarines) totheCaribbean-rimareaandoff Command oftheGermanNavysentagroupU-boats ment, asreportedinGaylordKelshall’susefulbook the sub’s105mmdeckgun.However,inexcite- seized theopportunitytoshellrefineryashorewith the area,farlessinharbour. ashore. NobodyexpectedaGermansubmarinetobein punctured sides.Therewaschaosandconsternation Arkansas The firsttwoactionswereintheDutchislandsof Four spectacularattacksonCaribbeanharbours By themiddleofFebruary,fivesubswerein During WorldWarII,inJanuary1942,theHigh Hartenstein cleverlyhidnearthefires’smoke.He U-156 the amountofwaterandsaltpassingin andout. plant andeventuallykillit.Sothe needs somemechanismthatwillcontrol the watercontainstoomuchsalt,itwill upsetthebalanceofchemicalsin active transport nance ofhealthycells.Theytakewater inattherootthroughaprocesscalled which theygrow? mangrove treescopewiththevarying saltiness(salinity)inthewater found atstreamandrivermouthswherefreshwatermeetssalt. grow insaltwaterwherethetidewashesandout.Mangroveswampsarealso land, blackmangrovesinshallowwaterandreddeeperwater.All with differentspeciesofmangrovein‘zones’:whitemangrovesnearestto Mangroves, likeotherplants,needwater forphotosynthesisandmainte- Do yourememberwheremangroveslive? DEEP SECRETS , WernerHartenstein,manoeuveredhisvessel weresittingducks.Oilflowedoutoftheir

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a y . Mangroveslivealongtheshoreline and Stockheim in from theshorebatteries. escaping withroundswhizzingovertheconningtower off tworoundsintotherefinerycompoundbefore centimetres ofthedamagedmuzzle.Hemanagedtoget Hartenstein orderedhisengineertohacksawoff40 left thebarrelsplayedoutatitsfront.Unperturbed, The resultingexplosionkilledtwocrewmembersand crew forgottoremovethetamponpluginmuzzle. ful formostoftheinformationthisarticle),gun The U-BoatWarintheCaribbean February 18th.AlbrechtAchilles,oneoftheGerman of Spainharbour,Trinidad.Thiswasonthenight earlier, thedefendersinCuraçaoweremoreready. fast. FollowingtheattackinArubaacouplehours in WillemstadHarbourbeforeheadingouttosea— CARIBBEAN MARITIMEHISTORY WHEN U-BOATS In neighbouringCuraçao,CaptainGuntherMuller- One ofthemoreimportantattackstookplaceinPort IXC-type submarine watch theexplosionofdepthchargethatsank Crew oftheUSCoastGuardcutter CARIBBEAN ATTACKED How dothe U-67 PORTS by NormanFaria sankthe3,100-tonnetanker U-175 , April1943 for themselveswherenootherplantscangrow. exit) whileotherscanturntheleavestofaceawayfromhotraysofsun. the stomata(tinyholesonundersideofleaveswherewatervapourcan thick waxysurfacesthathelptoholdinwater.Somecancontroltheopeningof control theamountofwaterlostfromplantthroughtranspiration.Somehave with watereveryday.Manyspeciesofmangrovehavespeciallyadaptedleavesto grown inpotsthegarden,althoughtheydobestwhenleavesaresprayed salt crystalsontheleaf.Rainwillwashaway. salt ontothesurfaceofleafsothat,ifyoulookcarefully,canseewhite amount iscontrolledbysaltglandsatthebaseofeachleaf.Theexcrete accumulates inoldleaveswhicheventuallydropofftheplant. does entercanbestoredincellvacuoles(emptyspacestheplantcells)orit salt toentertheplantbuttheyallowwaterpassthrougheasily.Anywhich groves are of thepotatocellsbecausesalt. potato cells.Thestripinsaltwaterwillbe bendywherewaterhasbeendrawnout a cupofsaltwater.Leavethemforanhour orso.Nowobservethemcarefully. By meansofalltheseadaptations,mangroveshavesuccessfullymadeaplace Can mangrovesgrowinfreshwatertoo? Black andwhitemangrovesare Mangroves havetwodifferentwaysofmanagingtheirsaltcontent.Redman- The stripinfreshwaterwillbehardwhere waterhasenteredandfilledoutthe Cut twoequalstripsofrawpotato.Restoneinacupfreshwaterand Try thisexperimenttoshowhowsaltcanaffectcellstructure. EXPERIMENT (towhichIamgrate- Spencer salt excluders

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Their rootmembranesallowonlyatinypercentageof Mokihama out andthe7,400-tonneAmerican-registered Port ofSpainataboutmidnight.Twotorpedoessped opened. Achillestheneaseduptotheanchorageoff backed offthemud.Itsurfacedandhatcheswere tonne IXC-type unfriendly vessel.Intheconfinedinteriorof1,200- detection deviceattheBocashadindicatedan and surfacecraftwereoutsearchingforhimaftera midday. Thenhewaiteduntilnightfall.Above,planes her sitonthemudbottomin30fathoms.Thiswas Caribbean. ThiswasChaguaramas. left, ofthebiggestAlliedanti-submarinebasein — butsubmerged.Hehadtopasswithinsight,onhis etly steered Navy’s mostwilyandskilfulsubmarineskippers,qui- —Continuedonnextpage cult thanTrinidad. harbour andsinkwhathecould.Thiswasmorediffi- Lucia. Hedecidedtodotheunthinkable:enter three torpedoesleft.WhytakethembacktoGermany? later. Fuelandtorpedoeswererunninglow.Hehad battery stood,thatthewatchersdidn’tseehim. to theislandofChacachacare,onwhich155mm the searchingcraft.Itworked.Thenheexitedsoclose face. Theideawastopretendthatthesuboneof sub sothatonlytheconningtowerwasabovesur- boldly turnedonhisnavigationlightsandtrimmedthe ness andheavyboattraffictryingtolocatehim,Achilles They waitedforthesubtoexit.However,indark- an attackafewdayslaterinanotherCaribbeanport. started in1939.Thisintimateknowledgewastohelp cruise shipsvisitingCaribbeanportsbeforethewar German submarinecommanders,servedaboard harbour bottom.(Bothwerelaterpatchedup.) WWW.UBOAT.NET Achilles sneakedthesubintoshallowwaterandlet It wasadaringraid.Achillescameinduringtheday He waspassingCastriesHarbourontheislandofSt. Achilles wasnearingtheendofhispatroltwoweeks The Allieshadbig155mmgunsattheBocasentrance. Achilles knewtheareawell.Hehad,likemany salt excreters andthetanker U-161 U-161 Yes,theycan.Theycanevenbe throughtheBocaschannel. . Saltenterstheplantbut , theairwasfoulwhenit British Consul settledonthe DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 The subs’ early offensive took the Allies by surprise. The late Norman Faria was a former merchant sea- afloat. Achilles, Auffermann and Muller-Stockheim afloat. Achilles, Auffermann and Muller-Stockheim went down with their vessels. But defences soon increased. More effective anti-sub- marine measures were put in place. Credit must go to the courageous Allied servicemen and women man- ning the planes, surface vessels and shore installa- tions and doing maintenance. This contributed to the Allied victory. They were assisted by Caribbean citi- zens including those in the South Caribbean Forces, among whose members was my Guyanese-born father stationed in Trinidad. Members of the Home Guard in the various islands also helped. man on the Geest Line, and served as Honorary Guyanese Consul in Barbados. Lady . Planter and Lady Nelson later perished when the sub was sunk off Brazil in September of the following year. later perished when the sub was sunk off Brazil in September was later salvaged. In 1943, it was back in service as a hospital ship. In 1953, after return- was later salvaged. In 1943, it was back in service as U-161 Governor, Comedian . Down below, 18-year-old Barbadian crewmember . Down below, 18-year-old Barbadian Giles Hall SurvivedGiles Hall the Lady Nelson Torpedoing of Torpedoing Many times while in convoy with ships in the Atlantic he feared his vessel would be torpedoed. He saw sev- Many times while in convoy with ships in the Atlantic of Remembrance Day (November 11th) once again, we Of their sacrifice, he had this to say: “On the occasion Two weeks after the Castries Harbour attack, Hall and the rest of the Barbadian crew were taken by schooner Two weeks after the Castries Harbour attack, Hall and The It is the 10th of March, 1942. At about a quarter to of March, 1942. At about It is the 10th off his feet by an ear-split- Suddenly, he was knocked He had to get out. And fast! Gall, shouting down the he heard the night watchman, a Barbadian named “Bizzy” Scrambling onto the deck, seamen and those from Crewmembers, and these included a mix of Canadian “We had to jump for our lives. in the Barbadian capital, growing up within walking distance of Carlisle Bay Trouble was, Mr. Hall, despite ship. Hall jumped in. He were tossed into the water near the side of the Fortunately, ropes and lifebuoys looking 20 years younger, said he did not know how Mr. Hall, now 85 and still a handsome, articulate man But the submarine operation was to fail. Once the eral being sunk that way. He witnessed the rescue of many merchant seamen. He and his comrades felt sorry eral being sunk that way. He witnessed the rescue of the Caribbean and British Guiana, who lost their lives. for those, including from the then British colonies in armed forces who gave their lives. But we must also must always remember the sacrifice of those in the Allied but for all my comrades, the contribution of mer- remember, and I am not speaking about myself particularly assisted in the war effort immensely in the sense that chant marine seamen, those on the cargo boats. They materials, food and other necessities.” they manned the ships that brought the necessary war back to Barbados. Among them was his father-in-law, Gordon Hall, who worked in the pantry area with him. back to Barbados. Among them was his father-in-law, to Egyptian owners and scrapped in 1968. During the ing to the cruise liner business in the islands, it was sold onto other cargo boats. He served on such Harrison Line war years (WWII ended in August 1945), Hall signed ships as the midnight, the stevedores on the docks of Castries stevedores on the docks midnight, the much needed are still busy offloading Harbour, St. Lucia ship Canadian steam passenger cargo from the Nelson climb a ladder with a pillow Giles Hall was just about to to catch the cool breeze. to get back on the aft deck liner shuddered as if hit ting explosion. The 7,800-tonne that had somehow penetrated what it was: a torpedo from a German submarine by a giant hammer. Hall knew steel vessel. Water A torpedo had slammed into the port quarter of the British-made the defences of the harbour. had started in the engine room. was already gushing in. Fires somehow shoved the stern come up!” Hall saw that the force of the explosion had ladders, “Who down below, stern onto the shallow har- bow lines were holding. The ship was settling by the away from the dock. Only the desperate. bour bottom. Things looked from the docks,” related a and British Guiana, decided to jump over the side away several Caribbean islands home last year. Hall in an interview at his St. Michael parish Barbadian still sprightly and unforgetful a stroke. Bridgetown, couldn’t swim anti-submarine guns installed the Canadian gunners (manning the two four-inch distinctly remembers one of this lifebuoy!” He made it. He to him, “Swim, young Hall! Swim! And hang onto on the ship that year) hollering was pulled from the water with the rest. 14 passengers and three crewmembers died. Achilles many people died in the attacks. One internet site says and all hands on at one time) and equipment in the area that would at one time) and equipment in the area that would have been put to better use in Europe. Exactly 400 Allied ships were sunk and 56 damaged during Operation Neuland. United States opened a front with other Allied nations in Europe and joined the mighty Soviet Union in the Allied cause against the German and Italian fascism and Japanese militarism, the plan was doomed. By July 1944, Operation Neuland was over. Overall, the German submarine service took appalling casualties. Of the total 40,000 sailors who served in 1,162 U-boats of various types during the war, 32,000 lost their lives. Ninety-seven subs carried out 145 patrols in the Caribbean theatre. Seventeen were sunk. When the war ended in 1945, only ten of the 97 were still

STEELE set- Lady Umtata (see photo in sidebar) was , when it was shelled by a sub on . It settled on the seabed and was and the 8,000-tonne tanker and the 8,000-tonne Lady Nelson Cornwallis Mona Marie cruised the islands with tourists after the war, cruised the islands with tourists , a type IXC model like the others. , a type IXC model like the Continued from previous page Continued from Some internet sites report that the attack in Some internet sites report that the attack in Allied authorities, beefing up their security mea- The other attack on a Caribbean port was on the The other attack on a Caribbean Castries was ablaze with lights. Before the torpedoes Castries was ablaze with lights. In Castries that night, the Canadian cruise liner night, the Canadian In Castries that He had to enter the winding entrance to the harbour the winding entrance to He had to enter The attacks on Caribbean ports had both psycho- torpedoed at the wharf An old photo of the port of Castries, much as it was when the Bridgetown took place at 2230 hours but when I spoke Bridgetown took place at 2230 hours but when I spoke during the 1980s with eyewitnesses including the late Laurie Hassell, who was a member of the Home Guard, they reported that it happened around 1630 hours. Hassell himself went out in patrol craft looking for the sub. Hassell was the skipper of an inter-island schoo- ner, the sures, had now installed anti-submarine nets across sures, had now installed anti-submarine nets across harbour entrances. The bay outside the Bridgetown port, Carlisle Bay, had one. There are conflicting accounts of what happened. One is that Auffermann blew a big hole in the net with four torpedoes (unlikely because of such a waste). Another is that he sent a spread of four torpedoes, not knowing the net was there. The fifth and last torpedo struck the Canadian freighter later repaired. Bridgetown Harbour in Barbados on September 11th, Bridgetown Harbour in Barbados Auffermann on 1942. This was done by Hans-Jurgen U-514 had hit, Achilles ordered Fast Ahead on the sub’s two had hit, Achilles ordered Fast speed on the surface diesels. Travelling at high sub’s superstructure was through the entrance, the but apparently no seri- hit by tracer bullets from shore ous damage was done. tled on the shallow harbour bottom with big holes in harbour bottom with tled on the shallow latter was were later salvaged. The their sides. (Both in July. The finally sunk by another submarine Nelson it was scrapped.) until the 1950s I believe, before Lady Nelson and could only turn when he got right in. Though he turn when he got right in. and could only Lt. Werner the harbour well, his First didn’t know on Hamburg- Achilles, he had served Bender did. Like America liners. — logical/propaganda value and military value. They logical/propaganda value and military value. They helped in the overall plan of destruction of shipping and the tying up of valuable Allied men (there were more than 30,000 US servicemen stationed in Trinidad June 28th, 1942. He and the crew were able to launch June 28th, 1942. He and the crew were able to launch a lifeboat before the shelling, in which they managed to reach the Grenadine island of Mustique. DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 moved intothepenumbralpartofshadow.AsFigures2and3show,sunis around 0600soyoushouldbeabletoseethetotalityjustfine. slowly evolvingeventscomparedtotheirshinycounterparts.Themoonwillset The eclipsewillstartaround0130hoursandgointodaybreak.Lunareclipsesare have toclosethetikibarandthenstayup,orhitbunkearlysetyouralarm. due tothetiltofmoon’sorbit.Towatchthislunareclipseyou’reeithergoing as that’swhenthemoonis‘behind’Earth,butitdoesn’thappen the moonpassesthroughEarth’sshadow.ItHAStohappenduringafullmoon, hour radiatingoutfromGemini(seeFigure1). of themonth. 1800 hoursbutmovingwesttowardthesun. THE SKYINDECEMBER Mercury AuthorisedDealersinSt.Lucia Penumbral eclipsemeansthemoonisgoingtobeonlyalittledimbecauseithas 06:01:20AST 04:16:57AST 04:53:08AST Penumbral EclipseEnds: 07:04:31 AST Partial EclipseEnds: Total EclipseEnds: 03:40:47AST 01:29:17AST Greatest Eclipse: 02:32:37AST Total EclipseBegins: Partial EclipseBegins: Penumbral EclipseBegins: What acoincidence—aneclipseontheWinterSolstice!Alunariswhen Lunar Eclipse 21st -FullMoon,WinterSolstice,ANDalunareclipse…WHAT?(Seebelow.) 14th -PeaktimefortheGeminidsmeteorshower.Lookupto100meteorsper 13th -MercuryandMarssettogether1800hours 6th -MoonoccultsMars 5th -NewMoon Sky EventsThisMonth SATURN -Risingaftermidnightallmonth. JUPITER -Upalreadyafterdark.Settingaround2300hours. MARS -Settingintheearlyeveningatabout1800hours.Maybetoolighttosee. EARTH -WaitinginlineforSuperBowltickets. VENUS -Risingbetween0400and0430hoursallmonth.Highesttowardtheend MERCURY -Slightchanceofviewingduringthefirstfewdays.Settingatabout The PlanetsinDecember A1 ISLANDMARINESUPPLIESINC Specialists inServiceandRepairs ofMarineEngines Tel: (758)719-1152Fax: (758)458-0660 Cell: (758)[email protected] For furtherinformation: by ScottWelty THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY! every

fullmoon FIGURE 1 FIGURE Figure 3:TopviewofEarth’sshadow—penumbraandumbra Figure 2:Showingthemoonpassingthroughpenumbra(grey)andumbra(red) the skyeasttowestasiftheywerecomingoutofGemini Figure 1:LookingeastonDecember14that2200hours.Meteorswillstreakacross FIGURE 3 FIGURE 2 / NASA light tendstobendandleakthroughtheatmosphere,whichiswhysunsetred. Blue lighttendstoscatterinouratmosphere,whichiswhytheskyblue,whilered pear andinsteadwilllookadarkred.ThisisbecausetheEarthhasanatmosphere. was asphereasonlycastscircularshadowfromallangles. See yourhand?ThisishowobservantpeoplewaybeforeColumbusknewtheEarth you’ll seeabitebeingtakenoutofthemoon.That’sshadowEarth!Wave! umbra iswheretherealmostnolightfromthesun.Whentotaleclipsebegins the penumbrawherethereissomelightfromsun,whiletrueshadowor not apointsourceoflightsotheearthcasts‘fuzzy’shadow.Thefuzzypartiscalled the sun! always beenatimeofcelebrationinmost civilizations—celebratingthereturnof shifted tothe21stbutpartystillhappens onthe25th.Thistimeofyearhas days inayearandthat’sclosebutnot perfect.Sincethattime,thesolsticehas endar thesolsticeoccurredonDecember25th.Thatearlycalendarhad365.25 standing onthetropicofCapricorn.AttimecreationJuliancal- want tostandintheshadeofyourownsombreroonthisdayyou’dhave be passage throughourskiesandmakesforthedaywithleastdaytime.Ifyou would totally‘disappear’duringtheeclipse. region andoffersalittleredlighttothemoon.Ifwehadnoatmospheremoon So therefractedredlightpassingthroughatmospherebendsintoumbra could catchon.Happysolsticeeverybody! decorate atreesomehow,andgiveeach otherpresents.Hey,thatkindofthing Perhaps surprisingly,duringtotallunareclipsethemoondoesn’tcompletelydisap- Time tocelebrateindeed—solstice To ContemplateWhileHavingaGlass ofWineonDeck The 21stisalsotheWinterSolstice.That’sdayofsun’smostsoutherly Winter Solstice Scott Weltyistheauthorof Got aquestionfor“CaptainScience”?E-mail [email protected]. The WhyBookofSailing and eclipse! We’vedecidedtohaveaparty, , BurfordBooks,©2007 DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 Baked Chicken chicken (five to six pounds) 1 large roasting juice Lemon or lime all-purpose seasoning salt 1 Tablespoon melted butter 2 Tablespoons of water stock dissolved in 1 Cup 1 cube chicken lime juice. thoroughly with lemon or Wash chicken West Indies Macaroni Pie macaroni 1 pack (12 ounces) long elbow 4 Tablespoons butter or margarine 1 Cup milk 1/4 pound Cheddar cheese 1 teaspoon salt out a quarter of it Grate the cheese, and separate Island Beans ’n’ Rice 1 Cup dried kidney beans 1 medium onion, chopped small 1 large carrot, chopped 1 medium sweet green pepper, chopped small 1 Cup uncooked long grain rice 1 teaspoon salt Sort and rinse beans, place in a large pot, cover with Holiday Slaw 3 Tablespoons vegetable oil 3 Tablespoons vinegar 1 Tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 medium cabbage, shredded 1 large carrot, grated In a small frying pan heat oil and vinegar to a boil. Let dry before rubbing inside and out with seasoning rubbing inside and out with Let dry before add chicken a roasting pan breast up; salt. Place in butter. If Brush chicken with melted stock to the pan. roasting pan with alumi- no cover is available, seal the at 325°F. Uncover and num foil. Bake for 75 minutes minutes. Let sit for ten continue to bake for 15 more minutes before serving. Boil a large pot of salted to hold back for topping. without stopping the boil water. Add the macaroni Drain, rinse in cold water and cook for five minutes. in a small saucepan and and set aside. Melt butter stirring and mix in the slowly stir in the milk. Keep two minutes or until grated cheese. Cook for about sauce is smooth. Combine cheese is fully melted and suitable ovenproof dish. sauce and macaroni in a Sprinkle top with remaining cheese. Bake at 350°F for half an hour. water and soak overnight. Drain, rinse, cover with fresh water and bring to a boil. Then lower heat and simmer for one to two hours, or until beans are tender. Drain beans, saving the liquid. In a three-quart pot with a lid, place two cups of the bean water, chopped onion, carrot, pepper, rice, beans and salt. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Cover tightly, with a piece of aluminum foil under the lid to get a good seal. Reduce heat to low and cook for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat and fluff rice with a fork, cover and let stand for five minutes. Remove from heat and stir in sugar, salt, and pepper. Pour over shredded cabbage and grated carrot in a bowl. Cover and let sit for at least 15 minutes. Serve warm or cold. My first taste of a real island We went south to the village seems out of place, since the seems out of place, since the evolution of inexpensive boxed mixes with orange-ish powdered cheese, but throughout the islands mac pie becomes an art form. holiday meal came in Trinidad from an East Indian fellow, Roy, who did some intricate welding for us. Every day he regaled my husband and me with stories of the food his mother and sister prepared. After sampling a few of the lunches he carried, it was impossible to refuse an invi- tation to a family gathering at Christmas. of Felicity. Cricket on TV backed three generations of family sipping such local favorites as sorrel drink and nose-tingling ginger beer. We adults added rum for a kick, but were warned to time the drinks not to overpower the arrival of a later-than-usual lunch. Roy’s father and moth- s s e ’ c i d

It’s not difficult to transform the simple ingredients It’s not difficult to transform holiday meal like above into a traditional island the one below er, the grandparents, we referred to as “mamoo” er, the grandparents, we referred to as “mamoo” (uncle) and “mousa” or “tanty”. The youngest genera- tion of children played in the yard while mothers and teenaged daughters crowded the kitchen, readying the wares and chatting the local gossip. The oven’s aroma had everyone’s attention and it was one of the rare times when curry wasn’t represented. After seconds of all the dishes and a third helping of some, I sorted out the delicious recipes. v r r a e

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by Shirley Hall

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Cadet Street, Castries, St. Lucia

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Feast (758) 458-1505 e-mail: [email protected] P.O. Box 1952, Unit 11 Valco Building, Box 1952, Unit 11 Valco P.O.

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brokerage services and Yacht Provisioning services and Yacht brokerage

Holiday Holiday Website: www.blanchardscustomservices.cbt.cc Website:

CCustoms Services BBlanchard’s Tel: (758) 458-1504 (758) Tel: Fax: Cell: (758) 484-3170 Although every island, ethnic culture, and religion The Caribbean is known for beautiful weather, The Caribbean is known

Effi cient handling of all your import and export cient handling Effi A Caribbean A Caribbean has identifiable cuisine there is one universal Caribbean has identifiable cuisine there is one universal Caribbean island holiday meal: chicken, macaroni pie, and beans ’n’ rice. Most international travelers are familiar with more elaborate celebration cuisine, usually surround- ing an expensive ham or turkey. Macaroni pie at first year. Each celebration also signifies quality time spent year. Each celebration also signifies quality time spent with family and friends, with most of the day devoted to enjoying excellent food. beaches with warm clear waters, friendly people — beaches with warm clear The end of a year has and an abundance of holidays. celebrate: Muslim Eid, almost endless reasons to Boxing Day, Old Hindu Divali, Christian Christmas, Day, and my birthday. Year’s Eve, New Year’s of these holidays celebrate Individually different, most government offices, busi- time off from work, when to business, and encour- nesses, and banks are closed thoughts for the upcoming age good will and positive DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 into thedesiredshapeandlefttodryharden.Thedifferentshapesinwhich the shellsremovedandpulpispoundedwithspicestomakeapasteformed coffee. “Cocoatea”isjustthelocalslangforhotcocoa.Thecocoabeansaredried, of stewedsaltfish(usuallysaltedcodfish),bakes,cucumbersaladandcocoatea. Soufriere, whereIstayed.AtraditionalSt.Lucianbreakfastisdelicious,consisting great effortsinmaintainingthelocalcuisine,forexampleatVilladesPitons when youorderbreakfastgetacontinentalbreakfast.ButSt.Luciahasmade especially truewhenitcomestogettingthefirstmealofday.Onsomeislands, foods anddiningplacesIenjoyedduringmystayinSt.Lucia. because youcannotbealocaluntilhaveeatenlikelocal.Herearesomeofthe St. Luciamaybeknownforitsbananasbutthisislandalsoproducescocoaand Getting truelocalfoodisachallengeinsomeislandsthatcatertotourists.This One ofthethingsIlovetodowhenvisitanewislandissamplecuisine, ‘DeKornah’ Bar&Restaurant Be at the heart of all the action all week, but especially onFriday alltheactionweek, butespecially nights. of Be at theheart withperfectlymixed drinks at prices. great lunch upagreat anddinnermenusixdaysaweek serves De Kornah placetochill Isletisagreat out! Bar&Restaurant inGros ‘De Kornah’ ‘ D SSt. Lucia t e .

L For reservations andtakeawaysFor call:(758)450-8056 reservations

u K c i a o r n a h Eating Like by Jo-AnneNinaSewlal a Localin ’ St. Lucia

B a r —Continuedonnextpage P&G RealJamaicanRestaurantatMarigotBay. However, whileinSt.LuciaIenjoyedsomeauthenticJamaicancuisine.Itwasatthe to coatthemeat.Waterisaddedandmeatleftsimmeruntilcooked. West Indieswestewourmeatbyfirstburningsugaruntilitcaramelizes;thisisused leaf. Thismixtureisstrainedandthenyouaddsugarmilktoyourpreference. the desiredamountfrombarorlogandboilwithastickofcinnamonbay larger supermarketsalreadygratedandreadyforuse.Tobrewcocoatea,yougrate it changedtosmallbars.InSt.Luciayoucangetrolledintothicklogsorinsome cake (likeasmallelongatedfootball);however,whencommercialproductionstarted, instance, inmyhomeland,Trinidad,thecocoaistraditionallyshapedintoanoval cocoa pasteisdriedoneofthelittledetailsthatmakeeachislandunique.For One thingSt.Luciapridesitselfonwhenitcomestofoodisstewedmeats.Inthe

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R Below: Cookingcassavabreadwithbananaleaves Left: RoastingcassavaflouratPlasKassav Above: AscrumptiousrotiattheCastriesMarket e s t a u r a n t

DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41

r a B Anse Cochon on the beach at

Call (758) 456-8118 or VHF Channel 16 Ti Kaye Village Resort Village Ti Kaye Boatside Meal OrdersBoatside Waterfront Dining Dining Waterfront (West Coast of St. Lucia) Coast of St. (West &

t n a There are also some snacks on sale at Anse La Raye, such as fish cakes (dough There are also some snacks on sale at Anse La Raye, such as Gros Islet, near Other towns have their own version of Sea Food Fridays, sweets. But when I did One thing I found very difficult to find was local homemade your taste buds busy. If you All in all, St. Lucia is an island that will keep you and r Small bakeries offer a variety of tempting St. Lucian pastries Small bakeries offer a variety with a toothpick and squeeze the limejuice all over it. All parts are edible except the with a toothpick and squeeze the limejuice all over it. which is what the animal shell and the hard part at the end (called the operculum), I did not get a chance to uses as a trap door to seal itself in its shell. Unfortunately again. sample octopus, but it is a good excuse to visit the island type of cake at the party is mixed with salted fish and fried to form fritters). Another around the size of a saucer, johnnycakes, which are small, round, thick breads a side dish, which you break baked on a hot griddle. These are usually ordered as your fish. and use to soak up the delicious sauce that comes with The town of Dennery on Rodney Bay, whose Jump Up is also held on Friday nights. the east coast has its festival on a Saturday night. a lady with a wooden tray find them, they were unique. While at the fish festival, made from sea almonds. came around and one of her sweets was a nut brittle on sale was shaved coconut Another time I visited a small shop and a type of sweet you have a sweet tooth for the that had been coated in sugar syrup and dried. So if shops. unusual and local, look for these at festivals and little to check it out! are looking for a new island to taste, I encourage you front and sell various seafood and drinks, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic. Some of both alcoholic and non-alcoholic. various seafood and drinks, front and sell snapper, johnny- octopus, whelks, steamed include curried lobster, the items on sale so bring your You get healthy portions, cakes, just to name a few. cakes and fish usually consists for the first time. A portion my visit I tried whelks appetite. During out of its shell of lime. You tease the whelk (like big snails) and a wedge of six whelks

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Ti Manje Manje TTi Continued from previous page Continued from As on most if not all islands in the Caribbean, barbecue is a staple on the week- As on most if not all islands in the Caribbean, barbecue Another unique place you must stop at is Plas Kassav in Anse-La-Verdure in must stop at is Plas Kassav in Anse-La-Verdure Another unique place you Another great location for local food in Soufriere is Feddoe’s, known to serve a good food in Soufriere is Feddoe’s, known to serve a good Another great location for local If restaurant dining is more your thing, then the Hummingbird Beach Resort is the your thing, then the Hummingbird Beach Resort is the If restaurant dining is more One of the places I made sure to visit during my trip to St. Lucia was the Castries my trip to St. Lucia was I made sure to visit during One of the places This eye-catching restaurant had only been in business for three weeks. The spe- in business for three weeks. restaurant had only been This eye-catching While I was in St. Lucia I was fortunate enough to visit the Sea Food Friday at Anse While I was in St. Lucia I was fortunate enough to visit ends and from as early as 4:00 to a finer texture. The cassava bread here comes in 12 flavours that were developed to a finer texture. The cassava bread here comes in 12 coconut, ginger, cinnamon, by owner Rosario Wilson’s mother. The flavours include sellers like chocolate, which peanut, chocolate and smoked herring. Some are big not made every day so you often “finishes” by early afternoon. Some flavours are also all. After buying you can sit have to keep checking in if you want to sample them on sale. and enjoy, or browse their small collection of souvenirs Canaries. The specialty of this establishment is cassava bread. First the cassava is this establishment is cassava bread. First the cassava Canaries. The specialty of to a large metal pot to make cassava flour, which is used ground and dry-roasted in Kassav also makes make cassava bread. Plas Soufriere received damage from the passage of Hurricane Tomas on October 30th. By from the passage of Hurricane Tomas on October 30th. Soufriere received damage to should be back in operation, but it might be wise the time you read this, businesses phone ahead first and confirm.] roti. They usually run out long before lunchtime so you have to get there early, usu- roti. They usually run out long roti known for their Creole-style cuisine. But the best ally before noon. They are also This little establishment came highly recom- I tasted was at Angel’s Restaurant. will in Soufriere where is a good place to get a meal, they mended. If you ask anyone after one of the owners. [ direct you to Angel’s, named place for you. Located at the end of the Soufriere waterfront, it has great ambiance end of the Soufriere waterfront, it has great ambiance place for you. Located at the and and a small batik studio where you can browse with intricate wooden sculptures is another great place to dine. It is here I had my very buy items. La Haut Plantation succulent tartar sauce. first taste of flying fish in a Market. Established 115 years ago, this structure is one of the natural attractions of structure is one of the natural 115 years ago, this Market. Established local fruits and here you can get all sorts of it comes to food, because St. Lucia when of a thin, baked “Lucian” roti. It consists is also where I had my first vegetables. It as filled with your choice of fish or stewed meat, such bread, like a flour tortilla, chicken, beef or goat. cial of the day when I visited was stewed oxtail, so I got to taste stewed meat from oxtail, so I got to taste stewed when I visited was stewed cial of the day are made, and dishes like rice and salad It is served family style, side another island. your order, that your meat according to as you want. They bring you take as much large portion. is, a small or — La Raye. You cannot miss this. It starts at around 6:00 around the town square or in one of the side streets in an effort to catch the people around the town square or in one of the side streets in pizza. St. Lucians love pizza, as they head to the square. Another big food here is it seems that it is a popular evident by the many food trucks that sell this. However, at the side of the road nighttime snack, as you would find these trucks parked dusk. But if you want a quick vacant and lifeless during the day but coming alive at with tasty pastries ranging snack during the day there are numerous bakeries and, from 50¢ to EC$1.00, they are an affordable treat. and even longer, as some bars might be open all night. The main road passes and even longer, as some bars might be open all miss it if you’re driving). through the town of Anse La Raye (you literally cannot set up stalls along the water- Basically a Sea Food Friday is a big street party. People DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 Ranger 2010 Ford

*Always wear yoursafetybeltandsecurechildrenintherearseat.**See dealerforlimited-warranty details. St. Marteen: Curaçao: Aruba: R.E. Yrausquin &Sons, L.G. SmithBlvd. #112, Oranjestad297-524-4444 Prestige Ford, B.V. Jan Noorduynweg z/n, 599-9-888-8080 Willemstad Caribbean Auto Sales, 153UnionRoad, ColeBay, Phillipsburg599-544-5211 •Five-year/100,000-km warranty •Five-year/100,000-km andimmobilizer alarm •Factory-installed • • •Dual frontanddualsideairbags •280 lb.-ft.torquecapacity •154 horsepower •3.0L TDCiengine with MP3capabilityandsixspeakers AM/FM stereo/six-discin-dashCDchanger with electronicbrakeforce distribution Four-wheel Anti-LockBrake System ** * DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. readers that those in the those in the readers that , he also insulted Anne Dunlop on , he also insulted Anne Dunlop on , Compass Compass : A vigilante is someone who illegally pun- Compass Reference to Ron Llewellyn’s letter in November’s “Vigilante cowboy”! What a kick in the teeth to those When I heard of the problem of manning the patrol On the appointed night of our first patrol, myself and But what of our resident, self-imposed yachtie secu- I am proud to have been able to help stem this spate I am proud to have been able Trinidad has a new Government now. The old one Mr. Llewellyn has insulted Ruth Lund in a previous Before the patrols started, many cruisers stayed up stayed up started, many cruisers Before the patrols Facebook and intimated that the Cruisers’ Net Facebook and intimated that the Cruisers’ Net Controllers were conspiring to withhold information about the security situation, also not true. I speak for a majority of cruisers here when I say that the sooner he leaves Trinidad the happier we all shall be. Perhaps he should make Venezuela, Jamaica or Cuba his next port of call and tell them how sort out their security problems! Mike Perrin S/V El Lobo Dear Compass ishes someone for actual or perceived offenses, or participates in a group that metes out extralegal pun- ishment to such a person. Often the victims are crimi- nals in the legal sense; however a vigilante may follow a different definition of criminal than the local law. A person who takes the law into his own hands is not a vigilante, he is a criminal. of us who volunteered to go out at night to help pre- vent crime in the Chaguaramas anchorage. That com- ment comes from a fellow yachtie, who over the last few months while staying in Trinidad has done nothing but bitch, moan, groan and insult just about every- body in Trinidad. boat, I volunteered my services. Why? It gave me an opportunity to put something back into the local yachting community; a community that, over the years I have been coming to Trinidad, has shown me nothing but help, kindness, and lots of smiles. fellow volunteer found ourselves being given a well- found boat with big powerful engines, VHF, nav lights, cell phone and a very well-defined remit. Both of us are highly competent and experienced yachties, in addi- tion to our own personal and professional skills. We had to patrol the anchorage and in the event of observ- ing a potential crime, we were to report to the Coastguard, but in no way to interfere. If we could identify and track the perpetrators, well and good, but we were not to put ourselves at risk. We manned the patrol boat on several nights when the local business community was unable to find crew. To all of those who manned the patrol boat, you did a great job and thefts were down; to those of you who moaned and groaned and remained in your snug little beds, don’t ever ask me for help. rity expert? When asked to volunteer his reply was along the lines of “if they pay me, I’ll do it”. I think the term “mercenary” comes to mind here. So what were we, honest volunteers helping the community, or vigi- lante cowboys? Alan Dunlop Freya of Clyde —Continued on next page anchorage were unanimously in favour (with the (with the unanimously in favour anchorage were of course) and it was sat- exception of Mr. Llewellyn, “Thank you, guys!” as isfying to hear cruisers saying, boats, even in the small we slowly crept by their hours of the morning. proud of the cruisers who of burglaries and I am also and volunteered. I also also ‘got off their backsides’ not necessary but in the wish that the patrols were cruisers do: stick event, we did what all GENUINE Llewellyn sat on his back- together and help out. Ron rantings, which side and poured out his inaccurate on the situation and upset have had a negative effect Trinidad as well as the just about every cruiser in CBC are trying to negotiate authorities with whom the policing here. He is a loose to establish some form of shots wherever he cannon firing off uncoordinated to clear up his mess. chooses and leaving the CBC career, he should under- From his claimed military campaign can be stand that even a well-organized scuppered by one loose cannon. was voted out for a number of reasons but the corrup- tion here was well known. They have brought in a new chief of police from Canada. He immediately increased the police force’s pay by a substantial margin and hopefully also their morale. It will take time to estab- lish a new regime here especially with the culture that has evolved over generations. There is no Harbour Master here and as such no one in authority who can control the port or to whom we as visitors can go to for assistance. Once that is established, then Chaguaramas may be able to maintain its status as one of the major yachting centres of the Caribbean. edition of any sort of activity around that vessel without leav- around that vessel any sort of activity anchorage. ing the designated boats in the night to watch over their through the the a good few of these maintained anchorage and Llewellyn the patrols got going. Mr. habit when patrols, espe- all were in favour of the states that not I can posi- by foreigners. Well, cially being manned tively inform

Compass’s

' S R E M and other places such as Facebook and other places such as Readers, U D A R Compass Compass E O As far as calling us “vigilantes” is concerned, well, As far as calling us “vigilantes” is concerned, well, Llewellyn’s comments about the security patrols are His latest rantings in the November Yes, there has been a spate of thefts here, but the He has done more harm to the yachting industry in I would be the first to say that Trinidad is not per- Having read various outpourings from Ron Llewellyn Having read various outpourings FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' I can only take this as an insult as we were far from I can only take this as an insult as we were far from that sort of category. We were indeed unarmed but we had a fast boat and, despite the contrary claim from Mr. Llewellyn, we were always equipped with a VHF radio and were in hourly contact with the Coast Guard. Our remit was to watch for suspicious boats, approach them at a distance and let them know that we had seen them. That always seemed to be deter- rent enough. There was to be no confrontation. As far as I am aware the only dinghy that was success- fully taken while the patrol was active was from a schooner whose skipper had been warned by the patrol to lift his dinghy but he declined, saying he was going to sleep in the cockpit. The boat was anchored near some working boats whose decks were brightly lit, and shining towards the rest of the anchorage, it would have been very difficult to see a real twist. The patrols were instigated by the Chaguaramas Business Community to try to stem the spate of robberies that occurred in July and it was soon apparent that these were not isolated incidents but well organized: specific sized outboards were being targeted. With the business people themselves man- ning the patrol and needing to work the next day, the patrol system was never going to be sustainable and it was obvious that they were going to need help. Fellow cruiser Alan and I volunteered to assist and we patrolled with one of the CBC members. From then we patrolled by ourselves one night a week but it was clear they still needed a hand. I personally announced on the Cruisers’ Net that they needed volunteers. Many male cruisers responded and ‘got off their back- sides’ to help out, and yes, women too. risk here is probably no worse than any other island risk here is probably no worse than any other island in the Caribbean, and when you consider the volume of yachts here for the hurricane season then the per- centage starts to look no worse than any other civi- lized country. Don’t get me wrong, one theft is one too many, but when you also consider the poverty there is here, then the flaunting of wealth performed by some yachties is always going to be tempting to those who have little. There would be little attraction to travel in these places if they were all totally civilized and sterile. Trinidad than any person alive and seems to think Trinidad than any person alive and seems to think that he is the answer to all security issues with an ego that promotes himself as a self-styled Rambo willing to offer his services to any country he is in at the time to sort out their problems (you only have to read his own blog). All he does is to stir up as much trouble as he can and he has the audacity to try to inform the authorities how to do their job, a good way to get people’s backs up. fect, but we do like it here. The Trinis we have met have been really fabulous, friendly, welcoming and helpful. If Mr. Llewellyn would get out of his insular berth and get out into Trinidad he would see the island from a different angle and maybe, just maybe, he might just see why we and many others like us really want to help out when we can. and the Trinidad Cruisers’ Forum, I feel it is time to and the Trinidad Cruisers’ Forum, I feel it is time to put the record straight. Readers’ Forum are full of inaccuracies and before he puts the proverbial cyber pen to paper he really should check his facts, rather than listen to alcoholic chit- chat. Even his mathematics do not compute. His letter is full of exaggerations and twisted interpretations. For a true and accurate version of events, see Niels Lund’s response in the same issue. 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Dear — previous issuesof Dear Trinidad Nan Hatch Chaguaramas in about Trinidadandtheproblemswithcrimearound yourself andthe genuous, thenIwillbehappytoapologize inaletterto Forum. IfyoucouldpointoutwhereIhave beendisin- Doyle’s openletterintheNovemberissue’s Readers’ disingenuous, asyouclaiminyourresponse toChris its formationprocessandfailtoseewhere Ihavebeen October issuecoveringpointsraisedby Mr. Ladell. Compass Park waswrittenupbyNeilLadell.The Dear Mr.Baker, SIOBMPA, Carriacou An OpenLettertoDavonBaker,Chairman, Yacht Ambia Jim Hutchinson real threattoturtlesisdevelopmentatnestingbeaches.) other pollutionrunofffromdevelopmentashore.(Andthe marine ecologiesonmostoftheseislandsisnutrientand by developmentashore.Inmymind,thebiggestthreatto groves, whichare Witness theworld’slackofresponsetoglobalwarming. down toeducation—boththelocalsandvisitors. fisheries managementis.Iagree.Anditlargelycomes protect Carriacou’smarineenvironment.Hethinks ture, restrictions,enforcement,andfeesisthewayto whether moreregulationsfullofexpensiveinfrastruc- thought wasabreathoffreshairinquestioning issues ofthosewhodon’tstandardizetotheirvision. about YSATT-typeoperationspayingmuchattentionto salesman withaproductflaw.Butthen,I’mskeptical them. Stollmeyersoundslikeapolitician/PRman,or hoard theoldwaters.SoundslikeLlewellynisoneof Only afewhoardedtheoldwaters.Someofusstill changed andthenewwaterswouldmakeyouinsane. teaching storyinwhichgodsaidthewaterswouldbe the swimmingpool.AlsobroughttomindisanoldSufi Trinidad asoneoftheirfavoriteanchoragesbecause article someyearsback,kidsratedChaguaramas, Dear Yacht Susan Louisa Winter headaches ofChaguaramas. to Tobago;ithassomuchofferandnoneofthe to Tobagoinstead.TothoseinTrinidadIwouldsaygo who arethinkingofheadingtoTrinidadIwouldsaygo out anyproblemsyoumighthave.Toallthecruisers anchorage, laundryandateamofengineerstosort which offerseverythingyoucouldwant—WiFitothe now acompanynexttotheanchorageatStoreBay was, onmylastvisit,amazedtodiscoverthatthereis past it’snothadmuchtoofferthecruisingsailor,I people herearefriendlyandwelcoming.Whileinthe of out-of-the-wayanchorageswhichsailorscrave.The of thehurricanebelt,quietandpeaceful,withplenty islands oftheCaribbean.Itisanideallocation—out Tobago doesn’tgettarredwiththesamebrush. It isimportant,asT&Tatwo-islandstate,that patrols —yousimplydon’thavetodothatinTobago. in Trinidad,sailorscomingtogethertocarryoutnight cally lockinguptheirdinghiesandoutboardsatnight never hadaproblem.Youreadaboutsailorsfranti- been sailingtoTobagoforthelasttenyearsandhave anchorage atStoreBaysimplydoesn’thappen.I’ve experiences noneoftheseproblems.Crimeatthe tant todistinguishbetweenthereandTobago.Tobago denying thereisaproblemwithTrinidad,it’simpor- the localTrinidad&Tobagomedia.Whilethereisno ming poolthanintheanchorage—a cities, andthatmanywouldratherswiminaswim- I amremindedthathalfofhumanitynowlivesinthe Trinidad debate,inwhichbrevityseemsnotanobject. Carriacou Jerry Stewart Don’t quarrelorfuss,for for there’smanydon’ttaketoourways. You moanandyougroanperhapsnotalone, on ourroads,intownsorbays. You don’tlikeourseaandyoutobe comes intothepicture,it’sclear! Your pressuregetshigherwhenMr.Stollmeyer you doesn’tlikeTrinis,Ifear. Mr. Llewellyn,oh In replytoMr.Llewellyn’scontinualTrini-bashingin all yourdifficultieshavebeenresolved! Hoist yoursails,sailaway,andyou’llfindbytheway, and yourproblemiseasilysolved: Over thelastfewmonthstherehasbeenalotwritten I havenotwrittenagainsttheactionsof SIOBMPA in In theAugusteditionof Stewart alsomentionsthepondsbehindman- But educatingpeopleawayfromoldhabitsisn’teasy. Jerry Stewart(October’sForum)breathedwhatI It doesshowthatoilisstillking. Tobago is,Ithink,oneofthelastfewunspoilt I’ve beenreadinginbemusementthelengthening Continued frompreviouspage Compass Compass Compass offeringaforumfordebate,Iwroteinthe , , , Caribbean Compass not Compass Compass protected, and the threat to them protected,andthethreattothem we , insailingforumsand : dolikeus, Compass .

, yourMarine Caribbean Compass

mentation planforSIOBMPAwasa was inflammatoryandanti-yacht. The presentationonthedamagedonebyanchoring attempt tomisleadsomeofthepeopleCarriacou. those presentationswereprobablysuccessfulinthe rebut theclaimthatyachtsweredamagingreefs, yachtsmen wereattheothertwotownmeetingsto the presentersandtoaudience,butsinceno boats andcommercialvessels.Thiswaspointedoutto the slidesshowedwereanchorsusedbysmallfishing the damagedonebyanchoringincoral”.Infact,what was, “No,theywerefoundontheInternettoillustrate asked iftheseslideswerefromCarriacou,theanswer by visitingyachtswasdestroyingthereefs.When through theuseofslides,impliedthatanchoring done bytheSIOBMPAcommittee. SIOBMPA wereabletoseeandhearwhathadbeen for thefirsttime,peoplenotassociatedwith were yachttourists.Themeetingwasinformativeand, cerned individualswerepresent.Halfoftheattendees of CarriacouandPetiteMartiniqueAffairs,25con- SIOBMPA committeemembers,aswelltheMinister attendance. Intotal,excludingthepresentersand ing heldinHarveyVale;Idonotknowifyouwere until aseriesoftownmeetingswasheldinJuly2009. ists wereexcludedfromalldiscussionsandplanning who wereinCarriacoutheearlieryears.Yachttour- community isbogusandnotsupportedbyanyofus in theearlieryearstocaptureinputofyachting of theyachts,soyourstatementthataneffortwasmade true. Theyachtingcommunitywasneverconsulted. initiate discussionswiththeyachtingcommunity,itis misattributed thecommentthatSIOBMPAneglectedto coming toCarriacoufortenyearsormore.Althoughyou there areanumberofyachttouristswhohavebeen nity inCarriacouisnotformallyorganized.However, anchoring couldeverdo. has donemuchmoredamagethanalltheyacht tion todredgethatpartoftheBayandcertainly SIOBMPA. Themarinadeveloperwasgivenanexcep- pied bythemarinawaswithinboundariesof SIOBMPA wasoriginallyproposed,theareanowoccu- ment. Inyourresponseyoudonotrevealthatwhen not selectedbecauseoftheirconcernfortheenviron- represent theyachtingcommunity.Surelytheywere and hasnocustomerbaseorknowledgeto marina selected?Thehasyettobecompleted marinas inCarriacou?HowandwhywasTyrrelBay sion theyachtingcommunity.Whoareotherlocal selected torepresentalllocalmarinasandbyexten- the resultofoverfishing. coral inTyrrelBay—myaddition)? on whitesand(atSandyIsland,orinbrokendead sengers; thesedollarsgodirectlyintothelocaleconomy. tourist mustpay. to operateGrenada’smarineparks,andthe(yacht) ment; theyareameanstoraisehalfmilliondollars opment onthelandside. years ago. but donotelaborate.Whichoftheseareinaccurate? You saythatMr.Stewart’saccusationslackaccuracy, destroy anythingsaidagainstwhatyouwanttobelieve. offered, youwentoffonatangentandattemptedto represent theattitudeofgoodpeopleCarriacou. extremely outoflineandIamsurethatitdoesnot Compass er letterwriterinthesameissueof called himdisingenuouswereactuallymadebyanoth- the commentsyouattributedtoMr.Stewartwhen acter ortosuggestthathewasnotsincere(although wrote doesnotgiveyoutherighttoimpugnhischar- Protected Areainappropriate.Disagreeingwithwhathe Stewart regardingtheSandyIslandOysterBedMarine Dear Mr.Baker, SIOBMPA, Carriacou An OpenLettertoDavonBaker,Chairman, —Continuedonnextpage reschedule, theyachtsmangaveupinfrustration. tour. Afterthreemoreunsuccessful attemptsto This person(thepresenter)didnotshow upforthe ghy tourtoseefirst-handwhattheconcerns were. arrangements withoneofthepresenters totakeadin- ists atthepresentation,yourstatementis nottrue. the suggestionsandcriticismsmadeby yachttour- tual criticisms”.Basedupontheresponse andactionsto say thatSIOBMPA“valuesfrankdiscussionsandfac- If youwerepresent,sawaswedidthattheimple- The presentationwasskewedagainstyachtsand, Along with12otheryachtsmen,Iattendedthemeet- No onefromSIOBMPAmadeanyefforttocontact You arecorrectinsayingthattheyachtingcommu- You goontosaythattheTyrrelBaymarinawas • Theneedforrevitalizationofthefishpopulationis • Isthereanargumentinfavorofbanninganchoring • SIOBMPAmooringswillnotencouragevisitors. • Yachttouristswillleave;thelocaleconomysuffer. • Yachtspeoplespendmoreperdaythancruiseshippas- • Mooringsandtheirfeesarenotfortheenviron- • Currentwater-baseduseseemstodamagenothing. • Thebiggestthreattothe(mangroves)isdevel- • Themangrovesareashealthytheywereten • ThebiggestthreattoSandyIslandisnature. Rather thanlisteningtoandconsideringwhatwas I foundyourresponsetotheconcernsraisedbyJerry After themeeting,oneofyachtsmen made ). YourdiatribeagainstMr.Stewartwas fait accompli. Caribbean You You DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45

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Compass Compass Resources for effective management MPAs are noto- effective management MPAs Resources for organize and facilitate a SusGren is willing to help With the notice of the change in status of the I needed a courtesy flag when we arrived unexpect- Most boaters with computers aboard also have a You will only need to print on one side since the This is an optional step used by charcoal artists to Sew a string to the side and hoist away. From the October 2010 Tom and Harriet Linskey report: Here’s how Hands other well-established MPAs through the Caribbean Caribbean MPAs through the other well-established and Forum Areas Managers Network Marine Protected region. Best MPA management in the (CaMPAM) on there is ongo- shared in the region and practices are and staff training for park managers ing professional such as of high-level agencies with involvement which the Environment Program UNEP’s Caribbean be involved in. SIOB MPA will patrol boats, - finding funds for staff, riously tight monitoring, and scientific education and outreach, SIOB MPA has many sup- research is challenging, but to success. The yachting porters and we are committed resources and experience community has valuable want yachters to be able that the SIOB MPA needs. We to them and sin- to weigh in on issues of importance interest will contribute cerely hope that anyone with constructive assistance with suggestions and provide At the same time we hope in the MPA’s management. respect for the importance to build understanding and them and the benefits of MPAs, the science behind they can bring. with the yachting com- meeting in early December Board and relevant gov- munity and the SIOB MPA step to improving the ernment agencies as a first am hopeful that interested SIOB MPA for yachting. I in Union Island (sus- parties will contact my office discuss this further and [email protected]) to event. I can provide all the set up a time for such an various documents and more, which I mentioned above. I look forward to participating further in this process with you. Martin Barriteau, Project Manager Sustainable Grenadines Project Dear Netherlands Antilles as posted in the October issue of Netherlands Antilles as posted in the October issue of Compass edly in South Caicos, and the following process worked well for us there and in subsequent anchorages where no flags could be purchased. I have shown the method many times to friends who have complained of not having the proper courtesy flag to fly upon arriving in a new harbour. printer that will print a serviceable courtesy flag that will last for a few weeks, even in the worst of the sea- sons. All that is needed is a piece of white sailcloth 8.5 by 17 inches, and a cheap can of hairspray or fixer spray for charcoal drawings. Go on line and “Google” the flag needed and copy it into Photoshop or any of the picture-processing software. Reduce or expand the photo to the required dimensions. Here I selected 8.5 inches wide and the length to constraint proportions — this way the flag will be printed to the nation’s cor- rect dimensions. Insert a piece of paper cut to the same size as the sailcloth you wish to print on. Set your printer to “banner” mode and do a test print on the paper. Here your printer might inform you that “image is larger than the printable area and some clip- ping may occur”. You are probably printing beyond preset borders. Select “proceed” and continue. Your printer will now print to the edges of the paper. If the results are acceptable, insert the piece of sailcloth into the printer, making sure the settings are still on “ban- ner”, and print. sailcloth is porous and the ink will soak through to the other side. fix drawings: lightly spray the sailcloth with the hair- spray or artist’s fixative spray. This will waterproof the sailcloth and fix the ink so it won’t run in the rain. Kathy and Ernie Martin Stonecutter II Dear Across the Sea is fighting low literacy in the Caribbean: We ask school teachers, principals, and Peace Corps volunteers in the Caribbean to assemble a Wish List of books and materials they need and then we get what they need, and then we ship it to them. This October, as part of our Caribbean Literacy and School Support pro- gram Hands will ship approximately 43,000 books and 92 boxes of teaching materials to 47 schools, 10,000 students, and eight community libraries/reading proj- ects. Perhaps you’re thinking, “This seems like a worthy cause, but what can I do?” Here’s some awesome news: we’ve just received a US$25,000 “challenge grant” commitment from two generous Hands support- ers. Which means that the way you can help children in the Caribbean right now is to make a cash donation to Hands Across the Sea, with the aim of matching the $25,000 grant and realizing our $50,000 goal, so Hands can fulfill all of the 2010 Wish Lists and bring positive change to thousands of Caribbean children. To make a donation, visit www.handsacrossthesea.net/ Donate.htm. —Continued on next page Continued from previous page Continued from The present SIOB MPA Board has already started The present SIOB MPA Board has already started Since 2005 the process to establish SIOB MPA was I would like to propose that the yachting community, As it stands now the fishing and yachting communi- Thank you all for your comments and mostly for Thank you all for your comments And please, in the future when you do respond to And please, in the future If you are honestly looking forward to establishing an looking forward to establishing If you are honestly With all due respect, Mr. Baker, your implementa- With all due using best practices from other countries, both in the using best practices from other countries, both in the Caribbean and internationally. The SIOB MPA Wardens and Board members have visited and received training from Bonaire and St. Lucia’s SMMA. MPA science internationally is well-evolved and we are taking advantage of every opportunity to learn more about MPA science by attending meetings, workshops and conferences, and by learning from very fortunate to have The Nature Conservancy on board who assisted in conducting various researches on the bio-physical and socio-economic aspects of the SIOB MPA. These results could be presented at the meeting I propose, which will give a better appreciation for the status of the resources. SIOB MPA resources are not as healthy as many believe them to be and the continued protection of the health of the habitats found in the area will need our concerted efforts. For example, the Tyrrel Bay mangroves ecosystem, with the presence of species such as numerous ‘upside down’ jelly fish and a proliferation of algae on the roots of the mangroves give an indication that this area is not as healthy as it first appears. Actions are required in order to resolve this situation and ensure that the important fish nursery functions of the mangroves are maintained. I believe all stakeholders are in agreement that we want to see the marine environment in Carriacou continue to have clean blue unpolluted waters and abundant coral and other species for many, many years to come. the SIOB MPA Board and various resource persons the SIOB MPA Board and various resource persons come together where presentations and discussions from both sides on the status of the resources and the best ways to protect them can be facilitated. The pres- ent organization I am working with, the Sustainable Grenadines Inc. (SusGren), would be willing to assist with such a process. May I suggest that we hold a meeting in Harvey Vale, Carriacou in early December? ties are the two sectors most affected, both positively ties are the two sectors most affected, both positively and negatively, by the establishment of the SIOB MPA. I would like to invite these two sectors to join with the present Board of SIOB MPA in discussions to resolve the present impasse and come up with some win-win situations for the most effective conservation practices for the SIOB MPA. The Board and the agencies involved in management are committed to continuing to bal- ance the multiple uses in the MPA while protecting the resources we all rely upon. In MPA management there should be ongoing stakeholder participation as the Board seeks to adaptively manage the park. We recog- nize that the management plan and policies related to the SIOB MPA are not cast in stone and that they should be regularly reviewed to fit current circum- stances. Threats to our marine and coastal environ- ment can and do change over time, so the current management and zoning plan are not necessarily static. Yachters do have the chance to weigh in on issues of importance to them, and there will be formal rounds of consultation that they can contribute to, as well as continuing informal dialogue to inform man- agement planning. your concern for the Sandy Island Oyster Bed Marine your concern for the Sandy I would like to use this Protected Area (SIOB MPA). the consultative process heightened concern to restart As is evident by letters from concerning the SIOB MPA. issues raised by the fish- the yachting community and gaps in our consultative ermen, there have been some MPAs need to be set up via process. We are aware that a consultative process, and during the years of plan- ning for SIOB MPA the parties involved have done our best to use a consultative process that was open to all stakeholders. I was the main facilitator for the estab- lishment of the SIOB MPA for the last six years, and on behalf of Mr. Davon Baker I would like to respond to your letters and I would like to propose some steps to help resolve the issues and concerns that have arisen since the launch of Grenada’s first co-managed marine protected area. comments with which you do not agree, use facts and comments with which you to make your point. not rhetoric and personal attacks John Pompa S/V Second Millennium others who have writ- Dear Mr. John Pompa and ten on Carriacou’s SIOB MPA, open line of communication, please include your cus- please include open line of communication, of Tyrrel Bay. We tomers, i.e. the yachting community of years of experience from have collectively hundreds sensitive to environmental around the world and are issues. We want to help. tion is flawed and needs immediate attention and and needs immediate tion is flawed is done to the Before any more damage adjustments. listen to it is time to seriously economy of Carriacou, of “my something to say. An attitude those who have facts” will up; don’t confuse me with mind is made people of the island. only hurt the — DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 southwestcoastofIreland SailingQuarterly,pluscruisesintheGrenadines,Venezuelaand • “Streetwise1and2”givetipsthatappearedinthepopularvideo line-handlingskillseverysailorshouldknow.1hour • “StreetonKnots”demonstratestheessentialknotsand racingroundthebuoystocelebrateher80thbirthday.1hour • “AntiguaWeek’85”isthestoryofenginelessyawlIolaire fromIrelandtoAntiguaviatheCapeVerdes.2hours • “TransatlanticwithStreet”documentsasailingpassage describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor HURRICANE TIPS! Month’s GOOD GUIDESARETIMELESS at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, at allIslandWaterworldstoresandJohnson'sHardware, Rocks don’tmove—oriftheydoareshownon 2011 AnnualCalendarofCaribbean Events DVDs availableatImray,KelvinHughes,ArmchairSailor/ marine tradeguideeveryyear,whichismuchmore infrastructure, virtuallyeveryislandputsoutafree departments putoutafreeannualguideforbars, or fromwww.iUniverse.comandwww.seabooks.com up-to-date thananyguide;similarly,thetourist Full informationonDVDsatwww.street-iolaire.com Selected ShortwaveWeatherReports information ontrackingandsecuringforastorm. up-to-date Imraycharts.Regardingmarine Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. Bluewater Books,andwww.street-iolaire.com. With alltheseupdatesreadilyavailable, Read inNext NEW! Street’s Guides and DVDs are available Street’s GuidesandDVDsareavailable Street’s guidesaretimeless. …and muchmore! Destination RioDulce Street’s videos, first made in 1985, Street’svideos,firstmadein1985, restaurants andhotels. are now back as DVDs. arenowbackasDVDs. Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of Visitwww.street-iolaire.comforawealthof Compass : — Dear Hands AcrosstheSea,Inc. Harriet Linskey this winterseasonintheEasternCaribbean. this topic,sopleaseletusknowifyou’dliketohelp and locallibrarians.Youclearlyhaveaninterestin principals andteachers,USPeaceCorpsVolunteers, teaching resourcesspecificallyrequestedbyschool net/HandsWishLists.htm); thesearethebooksand the Hands2010WishLists(www.handsacrossthesea. shipped totheCaribbeanthisNovember,checkout er-requested schoolresources.Toseewhatwehave ing studentsaccesstogoodreadingbooksandteach- Sea ishelpingtoimproveliteracyandlearningbygiv- trained teachersintheclassroom,HandsAcross the Caribbeanandgovernmentsarerequiringonly they hadread. rushed togiveusagrouphugandshowoffthebooks The nexttimewevisitedtheclass,firstgraders more interestedinlearningandstayedtheirseats. ment inherteachingmethodsandthestudentswere The VeryHungryCaterpillar first gradeteacherinDominicatoplanaunitusing worked witharetiredBritishmasterteacherand like tohelpuswithahands-onproject?Lastyearwe amount ofbookswithCaribbeancontent. Scholastic andourgoalnextyearistoincreasethe sales intheUSA.Wealsopurchasebooksfrom purchased, gentlyusedbookscarefullyfrombook Maori childrenwhowerereluctantreaders. the effectofgettinginterestingbooksintohands rural secondaryschoolinNewZealand,Iwitnessed former Englishteacherinchargeofthelibraryata community readinggroupsisabigteameffort.As Corps volunteerswhoareworkinghand-in-handwith classroom librariesandreadingcorners,USPeace improve theirclassroomenvironmentswithexciting ship ismakingadifference,teacherswhowantto of Education,schoolprincipalswhosestrongleader- learning supportadvisorswithintheislandMinistries books andwish-listitemscarefully.Partneringwith ing. That’swhywechoosetheschoolsthatreceive pals andcommunityorganizationsthatpromoteread- parenting, trainedteachers,dedicatedschoolprinci- challenge, thatit’sacommunityeffortinvolvinggood hands ofkidsisonlyapiecetheoverallliteracy claimed. Weknowwellthatgettinggoodbooksintothe comment onwhattheGlobalLiteracyProjectdidand Dear PaulFulton, response, whichfollows. Paul Fulton in theworld. poor teachercannotteachreadingwithallthebooks teacher canteachreadingwithoutANYbooks,whilea grades andaconsultantinreadingprograms,good my 40yearsofexperienceasateacherprimary donors ofthebooks,suppliesandmoney.Basedon at best,itisnaïve,and,worst,defraudingthe schools intheseislandswillincreaseliteracyisbogus; to learnitwellgoodinstructionmusttakeplace. that helpskidstoread.Readingisalearnedskill,and important pieceofthepuzzle,butitisNOT most literacygroups.Gettingbookstokidsisan me wrong:Isupport100percenttheprimarygoalof beginning middleandend,etcetera,etcetera.Don’tget teacher totalkabouttitle,author,purpose,outcome, words (iftheycan),bereadto(readalong)byaskilled can), lookedthroughandenjoythepicturesfind books toread(iftheycan),betheirparents books isWONDERFUL.Allkidsshouldhavegood ten pointsthatyearandI’llsayitagain:givingkids and thenclaimedthatexaminationscoresjumpedby Literacy Projectdumped30,000booksonSt.Vincent Caribbean: IsaiditthreeyearsagowhentheGlobal make surepotentialcustomersstayaway! Indeed, somechargeexorbitantrates, apparently to attract theboatsswingingatanchorinadjacent bays? market, andmyquestionis:whatare they doingto empty. Theyattractlessthanathirdof thepotential With onesmallexception,themarinasare atleasthalf but theproportionshaveremainedalmost thesame. numbers mayhavevariedduringthelast threemonths island, withafurtherhundredorsoin marinas.The are approximately230boatsanchored aroundthis question. Atthetimeofwriting(earlySeptember)there Grenada haveraisedwhatistomeaninteresting mooring buoys. they befreetodoit,inspiteofacreepingplague the naturalstatewhennotonpassage—andlongmay sailing. Manyothercruisersregardridingatanchoras a marinaisnaturaldestinationattheendofday’s a highproportionoftheirtimeinmarinas.Forthem, Now thatsecondaryeducationiscompulsoryacross Since youareanexperiencededucatorwould We haveworkedhardoverthesummertochooseour Thank youforyourthoughts.Wearenotableto Editor’s note:WeaskedHarrietLinskeyforher Suggesting thatshipping43,000bookstothe Regarding theclaimofraisingliteracyin Observations madeduringanothersummerin We allknowthattherearemanycruiserswhospend Continued frompreviouspage Compass , . Theteachersawimprove- World CruisingClub Andrew Bishop,ManagingDirector and ourthoughtsarewiththepeopleofSaintLucia. High Commissionwebsite:www.stluciahcuk.org. tions areappreciated;seedetailsontheSaintLucia rebuilding ofpeople’slivesinSaintLucia.Alldona- donations. Allofthemoneywillbeuseddirectlyin established adisasterrelieffundandwouldwelcome help. TheSaintLuciaHighCommissioninLondonhas extremely difficulttime. help sustaintheislandthroughwhatmustbean ing andspendingmoneyinthelocaleconomywillalso be supportinglocaljobsandenterprises.Yachtsvisit- visiting theislandandspendingmoneylocally,wewill Tourism isvitaltotheSaintLucianeconomy,andby collection atthefinalARCprizegivinginSaintLucia. on arrival,WorldCruisingClubwillalsoorganizeacash for ittobedistributedthemostneedy. Cross inSaintLuciawillcollectthefoodandarrange foods, thenpleasetakeasmuchyoucan.TheRed sions, orspaceonboardtotakeextratinnedanddried as toothbrushes,toothpasteandsoaps. adult disposablediapers/nappiesandtoiletriessuch infant foodandformula,femalesanitaryproducts, children’s disposablediapers/nappiesandwipes, hand sanitizers,blankets,bedsheets,sleepingbags, flashlights/torches, cleaningsupplies,sanitarywipes/ batteries, flasks,smalltransistorradios,lanternsor evaporated milk),dryfoodstuffs,watercontainers, of everydayitemssuchascannedfoods(especially canned foodsanddrygoodsaremostneeded.” Cross andNEMOteamswhohaveindicatedthat most usefulatthistime,andIhavespokentotheRed of SaintLuciaTouristBoardsays:“Supplieswouldbe donate spareitemsontheirarrival.LaVaughnFrancis to carryextrasuppliesontheirAtlanticcrossing,or island, isnotdamaged. is reporteditwilltaketimefortheislandtorecover. to havebeenrestrictedthesouthofisland,andit Lucia onOctober30th.Theconsiderabledamageappears age thatHurricaneTomascausedwhenitstruckSaint Dear Yacht Hummingbird Christopher Price congratulations fortheirefforts. anchorages. Clearlytheyweresuccessfulanddeserve imaginative packagestogetcruisersoutoftheir Grenada’s CarnivalweekPortLouisofferedsome Harbour inAntiguacomestomind,andduring and takeafavorableviewofshort-termvisitors.Jolly age usersneedshore-basedfacilitiesfromtimeto Some recognizethateventhemostdedicatedanchor- in mind. feel suchclaimsdonothaveboatowners’bestinterests of whatHurricaneIvandidtoGrenadain2004,and cal withthetruth.Manycruisershaveclearmemories safely throughoutthesummer)are,atbest,economi- ricane belt”(meaningthatyachtscanbeleftafloat a fool.Also,claimsthatGrenadais“outsidethehur- stories ofdisillusionment;noonelikestobetakenfor posterous hyperbole,whichhasledtothespreadof let aloneworkouthowtosellit. illustrate anattitudethatcannotevenseeamarket, peration’ cametomind. at themarina—lessthanhalffullwordslike‘des- the policywas“inlinewithstandardpractice”.Looking charging structure.WhenIprotested,wastoldthat dockmaster didnotknowaboutthe“fulldayonly” then chargedfor24hoursdockage—becausethe was misledintostayingafewhourslongerand they didwascreatenegativeattitudes. they couldhaveearnedgoodwillandsomeincome,all marina wasnevermorethanathirdfulland,where boatowners lastwinter.Throughouttheperiod alternative arrangements,asdidanumberofother out forthefullrate—andsogotnothing.Wemade suggested theydeviseoneimmediately,butheld be chargedbecause“wedon’thaveahalf-dayrate”.I last winter.Weweretoldthatthefulldayratewould go alongsideforacoupleofhoursriginspection (this problemisn’tlimitedtoGrenada),wewanted Your supportofthisinitiativeismuchappreciated, If youarenotsailingtoSaintLucia,canstill It isimportantthatwecontinuetovisitSaintLucia. In additiontoyachtstakingexcessfoodsuppliesoffer If youarevisitingSaintLuciaandhavespareprovi- The SaintLucianRedCrosshasaskedfordonations Crews takingpartinthisyear’sARCarebeingasked Rodney BayMarina,whichisinthenorthof World CruisingClubwasconcernedtohearofthedam- Not allmarinasareopentothesamecriticisms. Moreover, somemarinaadvertisingispronetopre- These mayseemlikepettyquibbles,butIthinkthey In anothermarinarecently,aftertakingonfuel,I Two examplesillustratemypoint.Onanotherisland Compass St. Vincent&theGrenadines Bequia VC0400 Box 175BQ Readers’ Forum Compass PublishingLtd. or [email protected] Send yourlettersto: Dear Compass , Readers , DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47

(a complete rewrite of this guide , it was a couple of days after new moon, the tradewinds , it was a couple of days after Titan about one and a half hours Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia, St Vincent [email protected] after the moon passes overhead Street’s Transatlantic Crossing Guide TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across TradeWinds six destinations in the Caribbean. are the fastest growing charter company, We all inclusive, 7 days. TERM CHARTERS, operating CREW VACANCIES! email: [email protected] In the Eastern Caribbean, high water comes high water In the Eastern Caribbean, or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 +784 457 3407 Tel. St Vincent Tel. Once observations have been made of the times of high and low tide at a location, Once observations have been made of the times of high approximately midnight and At full moon, the moon crosses the local meridian at In the 1986 I pointed out that, with no instruments, I had figured out that morning over my I had figured out that morning that, with no instruments, I pointed out comes about Caribbean is that high water I follow in the Eastern The rule of thumb On the day I sailed on of as to how to try to predict the easterly set They were amazed at my explanation of the Imray Iolaire charts. I I stand by the information that is found on the back We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. for crew, are looking We couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. prefer We The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be. Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. full training onsite in the Caribbean. offer We This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job. Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please use this email address: it is possible to predict these times well into the future. Over the course of centuries, it is possible to predict these times well into the future. thousands, of places world- mariners have made observations for hundreds, if not in-vogue term, is the time of wide. One of the most important data points, to use an high water at full (full moon) and change (new moon). of the full moon or the at new moon at noon. The interval between meridian passage the time of high water on full new moon and the time of the next high tide is called and change days (HWF&C) for that location. coffee that there would be an easterly current! They were very interested when I current! They were very interested would be an easterly coffee that there explained: i.e., the upper overhead (or underneath), hours after the moon passes one and a half An oversimpli- in the Nautical Almanac. of the moon as listed (and lower) passages flow toward the the tidal current tries to give a clearer view is that fication that helps turns to the east after rising, the current the moon is east of you moon, i.e., when the tidal flow and moves to the west, the moon has passed overhead (floods); after and also runs to the west (ebbs). also changes our a week, and moonrise was about two hours before had been light for almost tides are three to five days after new and full moon, start. So, given that the strongest eastward-flowing current. everything lined up for an If I have been sailing every day, I figure I can predict the current. Note I say “try”. and whether or not there will be an easterly current with 75 to 80 percent accuracy of the flow will be. If I have not been sailing for a couple approximately how strong goes down to 50 percent. Anyone who claims to be able weeks, my batting average liar and flow of the current in the Caribbean is either a to accurately predict the ebb or a fool. copied from a 1912 edition of is in the process), I printed the table of HWF&C that I in it for the Eastern Bowditch I found in the Library of Congress. But the information south, the time of high Caribbean really does not make sense. From Martinique and 50 minutes after the water (HW) varies from 2 hours and 30 minutes to 3 hours above in relation to the meridian passage of the moon. Going from my description turning west well before high moon, which does work, this means the current is to 9 hours after meridian water. In the northern islands, HW is 7 hours 30 minutes moon still holds. passage, but the old rule of current running toward the sailed in the Caribbean for have never heard from any experienced sailor who has of the Imray Iolaire charts 15 or 20 years that felt the tidal information on the back was wrong. Don Street Ireland

Titan’s published by . and the 28-foot Compass Iolaire new or full moon, you can after , we were having lunch on .) High water occurs approximately 50 Titan to the table I sent on to readers’ letters about Caribbean tides vis-à-vis readers’ letters about Caribbean Sailing Directions to the West Indies Sailing Directions to the West Antigua Slipway Chandlery HotHotHotSpot Coffee Shop Copper & Lumber Hotel Galley Bar Sunsail Reception Office The Anchorage DOCKYARD/ ENGLISH HARBOUR at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue Letter of of Letter Month the Compass . Since both boats were engineless I have spent a lot of time . Since both boats were engineless Readers! When in Antigua, pick up your free monthly copy of Nautical Almanac ): PICK UP! Transatlantic Crossing Guide , I probably made a few mistakes when transferring the info from the , I probably made a few mistakes when transferring the , bold Li’l Iolaire Compass Caribbean Compass Compass Compass Ahoy, Epicurean, Friars Hill Road, Customer Service Desk Island Motors Gas Station, Queen Elizabeth Highway Anjo Insurance Budget Marine Epicurean Marina Office Antigua Yacht Services Bailey’s Supermarket Cat Club Marina Office Falmouth Harbour Marina Jane’s Yacht Services Antigua Yacht Club AYC Marina Office Mad Mongoose Lord Jim’s Locker Skullduggery & Sea Breeze Slipway Chandlery the appear in In the Caribbean, the tidal current starts running east about one or two hours In the Caribbean, the tidal current starts running east One year I sailed on a different boat every day in the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta One year I sailed on a different boat every day in the Antigua Continually observing the current, I realized in the middle 1990s that within the Continually observing the current, I realized in the middle My first piece of advice on the subject of tides is to not always trust what you read subject of tides is to not always trust what you read My first piece of advice on the a 1913 Bowditch that had a In about 1983 I found in the US Library of Congress I read with interest the I have sailed for 70 of my 80 years and since November I am not very scientific but ST JOHN’S JOLLY HARBOUR FALMOUTH mother ship when Campbell Field, a young but very experienced hotshot navigator, mother ship when Campbell Field, a young but very experienced ASW about eight times and came on board and said to Peter Isler, “I have sailed knot instead of the one knot today for the first time I found an easterly current of one ASW more than a dozen or more westerly current.” Peter replied that he had sailed for the first time. times and he had also discovered an easterly current after moonrise and ceases to do so about the time of the meridian passage of the after moonrise and ceases to do so about the time of — east for four hours of the moon. So, basically, it’s running — or trying to run fighting against the west- 12-hour tidal cycle. The east-running flood tide is always the strength of the wind so, erly Equatorial Current, but this current is affected by if the wind is light and it is spring tides a few days and Antigua Sailing Week. After sailing on Virgin Islands the westerly flow of the Equatorial Current is not particularly strong, Virgin Islands the westerly flow of the Equatorial Current the current runs six hours to as the islands block it. Thus, within the USVI and BVI the islands the current (if it windward and six hours to leeward, whereas between hours to windward and eight overcomes the westerly Equatorial Current) runs four hours to leeward. get a strong easterly flowing tide. British Admiralty’s and to be wary about what you believe. For instance, the modern tide tables say you believe. For instance, the modern tide tables and to be wary about what day in the Virgin Islands. In 1959 or ’60 my father found there is only one high tide a of the in Foyles in London a copy of the moon in probably 800 table giving high tide in relation to the meridian passage is reproduced on page different locations. (The table for the Caribbean and Atlantic 233 of the my engineless tides help me rather than hinder me. figuring out how to make the In that book I found that Robert Schombergk, a Danish Norie and Wilson in 1867. in Croix, had worked out a complete analysis of the tides naturalist who lived in St. in He pointed out that there are two tides a day the US and British Virgin Islands. the tide and a minor high tide. At one point of the year the VI, with a major high of the year it’s during the major high tide is during the day, at another other time only one high tide a day. The night. Today, both the BA and NOAA claim there is George Forster examined care- Road Town, Tortola harbor pilot, sailor, and shipmate Road Town Harbour and con- fully the tidal gauge that was temporarily installed in two high tides there each day. firmed Schombergk’s findings that there are, in fact, 20 minutes plus or minus. If minutes later each day, but it can vary by as much as Passage of the Moon table once in a while one discovers an anomaly in the Meridian in the 1956 have sailed the Caribbean in the engineless 46-foot 1956 have sailed the Caribbean Dear moon (see current table on page 29 of this month’s the meridian passage of the thereof by ‘Captain Science’ in the November issue. issue), and the explanation DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 Call (784)456-2602 and more.Openingofanewcoffeeshopbythesea. Basil’s isacollectionofbeautifulbamboofurniture,contemporarypiecesfromAsiaandbeyond, AT BASIL’S: Call(784)457-2713. some ofthebestonisland.Nowofferingfullcateringservices. conditioned, youwillenjoycocktailsmostdelightful,thestaffwelcomingandmealsare BASIL’S BAR: Visitors toStVincent areinvitedto: efficiently arranged.Call(784)488-8407. pieces, homefurnishings,fabulouslightingaccessoriesandmore.Shippingiseasily Across Forever hasamagnificentcollectionoffurniturefromAsiaandbeyond,contemporary ACROSS FOREVER: Call (784)488-8407. Imported cigarsandanunusualcollectionofbooksnottobemissed.Fine foodsinParadise. Store. Bountifullystocked withfineFrench wines,cheesefromEurope,gourmetjamsandsauces. BASIL’S GREAT GENERAL STORE: take home.Basil’sBoutiquealsoofferssilverandgemstonejewelry. Elegant islandeveningandplayfuldaywear. For women,menandchildren,plus lotsofT-shirts to BASIL’S BOUTIQUE Festival takes placefromJanuary26-February 9,2011.Call(784)488-8350orVHF68. and BBQ.Basil’sBarishomeoftheonlyBluesFestival intheCaribbean.TheMustiqueBlues until late.CometoBasil’sforcocktailsanytimeandplanattendtheWednesday NightJumpUp beginsat8:00am.Lunch11:00am-6pm,andDinner7:30 catch upontheweb.Breakfastservice the bestbeefburgerinCaribbean.NowequippedwithWIFI,youcanenjoysunsetcocktailsand of Basil’sBarinMustiqueisallthatandmore:offeringfreshseafood,lobsterseason,steaks Best Barsin1987byNewsweekandtodaylivesuptothattradition.Recently renovated,thenewface BASIL’S BARANDRESTAURANT: Visitors toMustiqueareinvitedto:

Mustique Visit Basil’sinMustiqueorSt.Vincent Newly opened full service SPA locatedinVilla Newlyopenedfullservice acrossfromYoung Island.AlsoAt www.basilsbar.com [email protected]

LocatedinKingstownan18thcenturybuildingnamedCobblestone.Air WE SHIPAROUNDTHEWORLD! : Fabrics asbrighttheseaandlightair... perfectforislandjoy. Basil’s Bar ImaginedecoratingyourhomewithantiquesfromBaliandIndia. Basil’s BarinMustiquewasnamedoneoftheWorld’s Ten There is nothing general about Basil's Great General There isnothinggeneralaboutBasil'sGreatGeneral not havingmuchinthewayofagalley.” ments madesothatwecanliveonboard,althoughIhaveneverquiteadjustedto Bruno boughther.Nanettesays,“Believeme,therehavebeenalotofadjust- Geronimo Geronimo islands andlivingalifestylethatothersonlydreamabout. a smallpricetopayforhavingtheprivilegeofvisitingallCaribbean way atleast50percentofthetime,Ifigureweareaheadgame.Anditis have ourupsanddowns,likeanyothercouple,butaslongImeethimhalf have otherideas. Don’t takeforgrantedthatyourpartnerwillstaywithyou—heorshemay living happilysingleonherboat,butIthinkthereisalessontobelearnedhere. the boat.Apparently,itmayhavebeenmoreherdreamthanhis.Sheisnow and sailedtotheCaribbean—onlyfindoutthatHEwasnothappylivingon Cruiser NetfromClarksCourtBayMarina.Shemarriedherlongtimeboyfriend wife whoabandonsship.TakeKittyinGrenada,isalovelyTexanonthe work out?Unfortunately,somecouplesdon’tmakeit…andit’snotalwaysthe every convenienceofmodernlifewhiletheyarecruising.Howdoesitusually cruising lifestyle.Onepartnerhaspromisedtheotherthathe/shewillhave boat.” Thereisyourfirstsignthattherewasbriberyinvolvedinchoosingthe AIS system,youfillintheblank)orelseIrefusedtolivewithhim/herona on boardingtheirboat:“Myspousehadtopromisemea(fullsizerefrigerator, tions! ButhereisatelltalesignoftheBickersons—youwillhearfollowing point —especiallywhenwewomenover40donotgetourhormonemedica- ing babysteps,sotospeak,butatleasttheyarestilltogether. winter. Hopefully,bynextyeartheywillcruiseabitfarthersouth.Theyaretak- way, NervousNellygotasfartheBahamasandleftboatthereuntilnext planning tocruise.Ifnot,therewillbedisappointmentsonbothsides.Bythe ner. Thebottomlineisthis—bothpartnersneedtobeonthesamepagewhen Florida. Thiswentonformonths,tothegreatconsternationofotherpart- came upwithnumerousexcusesastowhytheycouldnotleavethemarinain in theircaseprobablyhappenstomanycruisingcouples:thereluctantpartner when thecouplewasscheduledtosailfromFloridaSt.Croix.Whathappened tures atsea.Well,tosaytheleast,thisturnedintosomeheateddiscussions is perfectlyhappyontheboatinamarina,whilehusbanddreamsofadven- have differentexpectationsonhowandwheretheywillcruisetogether.Thewife land isoutofhersight.Thecoupleveryhappilymarried,buttheyseemto sail theCaribbean—aslongtherewillbenocircumstancesunderwhich sail asfartheboatwilltakehim.Thewife,onotherhand,isanxiousto Caribbean. Thehusbandisaretiredairlinepilotandbustingattheseamsto cope. Readthefollowingobservationsanddecideifyoufitintoeithercategory. Which OneAreYou? P.O. Box851,St.Vincent&theGrenadines, Nanette EldridgeandBrunoBruchhofarecruisingtheCaribbeanaboard As forme,Ihavelearnedtocruisehappilywithmypartnerofeightyears.We The Bickersons:Weallknowthiscoupleandwe Nervous Nelly:WehaveclosefriendsfromtheUSwhodreamofcruising Cruising Couples— Tel: (784)458-7270Fax:457-9917 E-mail: [email protected] isaclassictwo-tonracerthatwasneverlivedonuntilNanetteand , a42-footcustom-builtDenchomar,Peterson-designedoceanracer. WALLILABOU ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAYHOTEL West Indies. (range limitedbythehills) VHFCh16&68 WHAT’S ONMYMIND by NanetteEldridge boyfriend, Bruno,andIhaveknownhowthey insights ontwoofthemanycruisingcouplesmy have tomake. come withcruisingthateventheclosestcouples cases. Buttherearestillmanyadjustmentsthat together forquitesometime—thathelpsinmost cruising plungehavealreadysailedandlived Luckily, mostcouplesthattakethelong-term these lessonscruiseforyearsanddon’tsplitup. of timeinsmallspaces.Thecouplesthatlearn lessons onhowtogetalongforprolongedperiods weekends. Cruisingcouplesareforcedtolearn each otherforacoupleofhoursatnightandon mate. Let’sfaceit—mostworkingcouplessee another tolive24/7ona42-footboatwithyour As anactivecruiser,Iwouldliketosharemy It isonethingtobeaweekendcruiserandquite ... CARIBEE BATIK-BOUTIQUE CREDIT CARDSACCEPTED WATER, ICE,SHOWERS BAR ANDRESTAURANT MOORING FACILITIES TOURS ARRANGED HAPPY HOUR5-6 are PORT OFENTRY thiscoupleatsome DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 $260,000 Plum Crazy 45’ 2003 Silverton MY 3 strms, excellent condition Sail Power [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 Fax: (340) 779-2779 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. www.stthomasyachts.com Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Compass Point $199,900 Southern Comfort 60’ 1982 Nautical Ketch, ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES YACHT THOMAS ST. 4 strms, excellent charter boat Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale Call, fax or visit our website for a complete business separate 36’ 1980 Albin Stratus, daysail 38, classic, excellent cond. 38’ 1967 Le Comte, Northeast A/C 41’ 1980 Morgan O/I ‘04 Yanmar, excellent cruiser 50’ 1978 Nautor MSailer, refit, $80,000 liveaboard, needs engs. 37’ 1986 CML Trawler, Great roomy, cockpit 38’ 1977 Chris-Craft Corinthian, $45,000 for diving, twin Crusaders 40’ 1997 Carver MY, Cockpit DD’s, 3 strms 58’ 1974 Hatteras MY, Classic, $20,000 $30,000 $325,000 $89,900 $110,000 $69,000 See ad on page 16 See ad on page 53 went to press — but plans change, s See ad on page 18 in many places

Compass [email protected]. CALENDAR in many places because Boxing Day falls on Sunday

and contact information of the organizing body to All information was correct to the best of our knowledge o please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. Manhattan Sailing Club’s BVI Cruise. www.myc.org Grenada Sailing Festival. Mustique Blues Festival. www.basilsbar.com please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name Public holiday Yacht Industry Security Conference, St. Thomas, USVI. Yacht Industry Security Conference, St. Maarten Yacht Club (SMYC), Rescuers’ Regatta, St. Maarten. Trophy & ‘Diamond Dash’ Races from Sir John Compton Memorial SLYC Fun Day. SLYC Christmas Camp Youth Sailing, St. Lucia. SLYC Carols Afloat in the Bay, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. SLYC Carlos Aguilar Memorial Match Race, St. Thomas, USVI. St. Thomas Yacht Carlos Aguilar Memorial Match www.caribbeancompass.com 42nd Spice Island Billfish Tournament, Grenada. www.sibtgrenada.com Jamaica Jazz and Blues Festival, Montego Bay. Antigua Superyacht Cup. AYC Bequia Mount Gay Music Fest. St. Thomas, USVI. Yacht Industry Security Conference, www.barbadosjazzfestival.com 18th Annual Barbados Jazz Festival. Cuba. www.jazzcuba.com Havana International Jazz Festival, at the time this issue of Antigua Charter Yacht Show. www.antiguayachtshow.com 48th Parades, St. Croix. www.stxfestival.com Crucian Christmas Festival BVI. Gustav Wilmerding 20th Annual Memorial Challenge, FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE St. Barts Music Festival. www.stbartsmusicfestival.org Carriacou Sailing Series. www.sailingcarriacou.com Championships, St. Maarten. SMYC Budget Marine Women’s Caribbean Errol Barrow Day; public holiday in Barbados. Our Lady of Altagracia; G.F. Croes Day; public holiday in Aruba Duarte’s Day; public holiday in the Dominican Republic FULL MOON FULL holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI Martin Luther King Day. Public Mount Gay Rum Round Barbados Race. Public holiday in Puerto Rico Eugenio María de Hostos Day. FULL MOON FULL Eclipse Winter Solstice and Lunar in many places Christmas Day. Public holiday Boxing Day. Public holiday Antigua Yacht Club (AYC), Nelson’s Pursuit Race, Antigua. If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, holiday or “recovery day” in many places. New Year’s Day. Public (Victory of Armed Forces Day), Haiti (Founding Public holidays in Cuba www.stkittsneviscarnival.com Carnival Last Lap, St Kitts. holiday in many places Three Kings Day. Public 29 – 5 Feb TBA TBA TBA 28 – 6 Feb 21 23 – 27 23 – 29 http://jamaicajazzandblues.com public holiday in the Dominican Republic 25 26 26 – 29 26 – 9 Feb 27 – 30 11 – 12 www.maritimesecurity.org 17 19 21 10 10 – 16 1 2 3 in Abaco, Bahamas; Grand Carnival Parade in St. Kitts Junkanoo parade 6 7 – 8 St. Lucia and Grenada (Second New Year’s Day) Fathers Day), and JANUARY 2011 27 7 – 8 www.maritimesecurity.org 11 11 – 13 www.smyc.com tel (599) 544-2075, fax (599) 544-2091, [email protected], www.stluciayachtclub.com 12 Club (SLYC), St. Lucia to Martinique and back. St. Lucia Yacht 12 – 21 [email protected], tel (758) 452-8350, 13 – 17 19 21 21 25 26 31 tel/fax (268) 460-1799, [email protected], www.antiguayachtclub.com www.jollyrogerbvi.com 6 – 11 [email protected], Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, BVI, tel (284) 496-8685, West End [email protected], www.styc.net [email protected], 3 – 5 Club (STYC), tel (340) 775-6320, fax (340) 775-3600, 2 – 5 DECEMBER 2010 DECEMBER DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES • FILLERSSTAINLESSFASTENERSADHESIVES • SPRAYPAINTSROLLERSBRUSHES •TOOLS on Incl. Pilots,Rigging Chandlery, Charts, [email protected] +1(268)562-6696 • CLEANING SUPPLIES • TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 Maritime TrainingMaritime BEQUIA VENTURE CO. LTD YACHT SERVICES Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat, Primer, Epoxy,TopCoat, Yachtmaster Coastal, Offshore andOcean MID ATLANTIC St. Vincent & the Grenadines for St. Vincent&theGrenadinesfor Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices Email: [email protected] Tel: 7844583319•Fax:3000 www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Antifouling, Thinners Sailing courses from to Day Skipper RYA/MCA Professional Certification deck EU-VAT (15%)importation Powerboat Level 2,SRC,First Aid Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Trans-Atlantic Yachts! PORT ELIZABETH,BEQUIA appointed agents in appointed agentsin

STCW95 Coming Soon

[email protected] • NAILS • HOSE CLAMPS • CLAMPS HOSE • NAILS • KERRY’S MARINE SERVICES KERRY’S MARINESERVICES McCOY ST,KINGSTOWN,ST.VINCENT M MARINE SERVICE Quality Services&theBestPrices LULLEY‘S TACKLEL SHOP E-mail: [email protected] Noelina &LennoxTaylorwelcomeyou!

PORTHOLE RESTAURANT &BAR A friendlyatmospherewhereyoucansitandmeetpeople. SNORKELING &SCUBADIVINGGEARS c ULL EMAIL: [email protected] TEL: (784)458-3420/485-6255 & ShorelineMini-Market N COY ST,KINGSTOWN,ST.VINCENT O FRONT ST,BEQUIAISLANDF RKELIN E-mail: [email protected] E Tel: (784) 530-8123/570-7612 Tel: (784)530-8123/570-7612 PHONE: 1(784)5328006 RONT ST # 1CHOICEINFISHING& -mail: lulle E Admiralty Bay,Bequia KINGFISHER Y‘ intheCaribbean FAX: (784)458-3797 FAX: (784)458-379 Y‘ C UNION ISLAND U H S VHF68“KMS” Mooringsavailable • Refrigeration • Welding/Electrical • Diesel/Outboardrepair Mechanical Service G NI O & I O C T , y@ BEQUIAISLAND SC E INFI N I ACKLE Marine/Land vinc We servebreakfast, UBA DIVIN S lunch anddinner / LAND (784)485-6255 Phone (784)458-3458 y S surf.co HIN

•MOORINGS SHOP • GARBAGE H CH68 VHF 7 G DISPOSAL • WATER & G m

G FUEL • EAR continuedonnextpage (784) 4573856•Cell: (784)4952272•VHF68 Stocked withlotsofmarinehardware, PPiper MarineStore oroffthepremises ortakeaway. Try ourSmoothies! Enjoy ourpopularBaguetteSandwichesmadetoorder on Steaks, Baguettesbaked freshly every day. Seafood, Shrimp, Prawns, smoked &fresh Salmon, Fish, Lamb, Cheese, Cream, Juices etc. Great selectionofColdMeats, Salami, Turkey, Prosciutto, bilge pumps, varnish&much more. We are alsosituatedinCalliaqua, St. Vincent 4562987 Call uson toyouryacht service VHF forourdelivery i for Restaurants, Hotels, Villas orsimply toenjoy athome. Located atGingerbreadCafé Provisioning for Yacht Charters, largeorsmallorders Bequia - Port Elizabeth Port - Bequia p filters, nuts &bolts, impellers, Experience our friendly service asalways!Experience ourfriendlyservice e r

Rigging, Lifelines M Situatedjustbelow Coco’s Restaurant Tel: 4583485• VHF 68 frozen &cannedfoods a

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S t o r e DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51      I  L E S P R H C H A N D          F D P  E T R A C  D N I W S E Watermakers L B A M Marine Electrics Didier and Maria U S [email protected] N O Saturday by appointment # tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 located at Carenantilles dockyard LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE e-mail: [email protected] Installation / Repair Installation I I Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm N R Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) G G G Voiles Assistance Phone: +(596) 596 74 8033 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05 www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected] Tel: + (596) 596 650 524 Fax: + (596) 596 650 053 + (596) 596 650 524 Fax: + (596) 596 650 Tel: Zac artimer - Le Marin, Martinique FWI Zac artimer - Le Marin, LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE • GRENADA continued on next page . I r . f

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welding. Fabrication and repair of o T USED AND NEW BOATS FOR SALE AND NEW BOATS USED Tel: (0) 596 71 41 61 Fax: (0) 596 71 77 Grenada Marine • Spice Island Marine Grenada Marine • Spice TechNick Ltd. TechNick stainless steel and aluminium items. M S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada Blue, Grenada S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True ort Le Marin, Martinique SAILMAKING, RIGGING, ELECTRONICS SAILMAKING, www Shipchandler, Artimer P grenada • jewelry • jewelry www.carriacou.net just steps from the carenage Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean for your boat, home + friends Land and houses for sale Land and houses for young street st. george's Carriacou Real Estate Ltd Carriacou Real Estate • rare exotic arts + crafts For full details see our website: For full details see our or contact Carolyn Alexander at or contact Carolyn We also handle Villa Rentals & Villa also handle We e-mail: [email protected] Tel: (473) 443 8187 Fax: (473) 443 8290 (473) 443 8187 Fax: (473) Tel: Property Management on Carriacou Property • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts tel: (473) 440-2310 [email protected] CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE CARRIACOU DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 St. Lucia

RRODNEY L'Essence Massage from 7 machining&fabrication Rodney BayBoatyard,GrosIslet,St. Lucia Opening Hours “Try Karen’sspecialYachtCrewMassage” Fabrication of pulpits, stanchions, davits, chainplates, chainplates, davits, stanchions, pulpits, of Fabrication Tel: (758)485-0665or 384-0665 Specialistinwelding, LawrenceLimCheeYung Diploma inMassage/SPATherapyfromSweden O SSAILS ManagingDirector BBAY e-mail: [email protected] aka‘Chinaman’. Rodney BayMarina,Tel:(758)715-4661 Rebuild and repair all types of machinery of types all repair and Rebuild A wwww.restaurant-mangobay.com anchor brackets, solar panel, arches & more & arches panel, solar brackets, anchor D AM WWIFI ConnectionforourGuests E-Mail: [email protected] w A I -11 w I Caribbean CompassMarketPlace F TTelephone: 0596746089 N e I L .

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Aluminium andStainlessSteel Y ALSO AVAILABLEAREPRE-OWNED O Genuine localandinternationalcuisine D [email protected] Marigot Bay, St. Lucia a M A AND SERVICINGOFALLMAKES U E Phone: 758-451-4772Phone: VHF 16 Marine RepairSpecialist T l from your yacht to our dock! N T WE PICKUPANDDELIVER m S right in the heart ofGrosright intheheart Islet A OF OUTBOARDENGINES. Tel: (758)450-8019

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DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53 ADMIRALTY TRANSPORT ADMIRALTY Mustique Basil’s Bar Stainless Stainless Protects Stainless Steel Great for hard to reach places BEQUIA EXPRESS COMPANY www.spotlessstainless.com Less Time, Less Effort, Super Results! Less Effort, Time, Less Removes rust and “surface iron” that causes rust “surface iron” Removes rust and Available at Island Water World or World at Island Water Available No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. No Polishing. No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. No Polishing. Makes Stainless Steel Sparkle Makes Stainless Steel Sparkle Spotless Spotless . s t DE REEF Bequia d e 5 n n . a . 7 l x 8 s . s o r i 7

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BOOK YOUR MARKET PLACE AD NOW: BOOK YOUR MARKET a [email protected] or contact your local island agent PPhones: (599) 552- 9078 / US (619) 368-9078 GGenerator, Air-conditioning, 190 engine hours. t g R n n i o y CCRUISERS YACHTS 3075 CContact: Don Robertson • LLying in St. Maarten • Will deliver to neighboring islands. KEEGAN'S BEACH RESORT www.begos.com/bequiamusicfest [email protected] Tel: (784) 458 3286 www.begos.com/bequiamusicfest [email protected] Tel: (784) Thurs 27th, 9pm: Elite Steel Orchestra @ Frangipani Hotel 13-piece Fri 28th, 8.30pm: The Mustique Blues Festival comes to Bequia for 1 night @ De Reef Sat 29th, 1.00pm: Afternoon Jazz 'n' Blues Jam @ Bequia Beach Hotel, Friendship Guest Artistes @ De Reef Sat 29th, 8.30pm: ARTURO TAPPIN • NEXCYX • TOBY ARMSTRONG • LOOK HOOZ LEFT & 1.00pm: Country Relatives • Denzil Bacchus Blues Band • Honky Tonics • Grand Mount Gay Finale @ De Reef Sun 30th,

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The Bequia Tourism Association presents 8 DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 Tel (758)4528531 E-mail [email protected] 55.000 US 1999 BAVARIA38Caribic 1987 IRWIN44119.500US 1986 OYSTER43535.000GBP 1982 CATALINA3219.000US 2009 HUNTER45DS239.000US Exclusive 435.000US, [email protected] 415-8271 E-mailRichard. fridge, computer.Tel(473) toilet, doublebed,stove, accommodations, electric code 0.Fastcruiserwith ers, Dyformrigging,Kevlar Hydro autopilot,Profurlfurl- West system,Twinrudders, OPEN 45BUILT2000 [email protected] row. USD189,999E-mail for youtostartcruisingtomor- located inTrinidad.Ready out theCaribbeanandnow maintained. Sailedthrough- pit, singleowner,lovingly CRUISER 46’ PETERSONPERFORMANCE www.crackajacksailing.com Tel (868)739-6449 BOATS FORSALEINTRINIDAD (596) 696907429 Email [email protected]: OFFER!! LyingStLucia. US$179,000 orMAKEUSAN www.freewebs.com/venus46forsale Generator &more.Fullspecsat Air-Con, SolarPanels,Wind Pilot, EPIRB,SSB,WaterMaker, cruiser. GPS,RADAR,VHF,Auto 2007, excellentliveaboardand fiberglass, vgc,newengine YOUNG SUN46ftVENUS1984KETCH DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO G DETSR OAIN G AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATION PG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER aieCmoie t are MP MP MP St.Maarten MP Carriacou 46 MP St.Lucia CIRExpress St. 12 49 Chateau MygoRestaurant MP Guadeloupe Carriacou SilverDiving 43 Martinique Caribe Composite 55 Trinidad Martinique Caribbean SailingAssociation UnionIsland MP 2 Caribbean PropellersLtd. Trinidad Tortola Caribbean MarineElectrical 48 53 Caribbean Yachts SintMaarten Grenada 20 Caraibe Greement 49 Maarten Caraibe Greement MP Bequia Captain Gourmet Mustique Camper &Nicholsons MP BVI YachtSales Bequia Trinidad Trinidad MP Business DevelopmentCo. Grenada MP MP Budget Marine Blanchards CustomsServices 26 32 Bequia Venture Antigua 28 PetiteMartinique 9 Bequia MusicFest Trinidad St.Lucia Bay IslandYachts St.Vincent Basil’s Bar 44 19 Barrow Sails&Canvas Antigua Curacao Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik MP Antigua Art &Design 38 ARC Dynamic Antigua ClassicRegatta UK Martinique Anjo Insurance Admiral YachtInsurance St.Lucia ABC Marine A1 IslandMarineSupplies A&C YachtBrokers BOATS FORSALE 1988 Centercock- , 2006 BAHIA 46 , 2006BAHIA46 , wood/

C/W 19 39 St. Lucia [email protected] Sell, askingUS$30KE-mail outboard. Sailaway.Must dinghy with2HPHonda Kiss windgenerator,Caribe condition, lyinginBarbados. 1996 HUNTER29.5 [email protected] Tel: (599)5231619E-mail US$95,000. ContactFrank guarantee. Onboatlift. options (inc.Biminitop)and (2x260HP). Allfactory 30 hoursontwinengines but firstlaunched19/3/2010. BAYLINER 3002007Model 3947 Grenada MarineTel:(473)405- documented locatedat needs work,wellequipped& GIBSEA 33 [email protected] Lying AntiguaE-mail lots ofextras.US$45,000 ‘SWEETHEART’ 35FT CARRIACOUSLOOP [email protected] US$29,000.00 Offers.E-mail heritage rebuild. W.Indian sail.Anon-profit Antigua. Becomepartof in bronze.Quickboat.Lying Re-planked &re-fastened all. Newcockpit,decketc. 'PIPEDREAM' CARRIACOU SLOOP is ontheInternet Your Classifi E-mail [email protected] , Pricenegotiable, 1984.39'over- , 30hp Yanmar, , 30hpYanmar, ‘ ol abu Atga MP 45 MP 46 15 Antigua St.Croix 31 56 Bequia St.Lucia MP 8 SintMaarten MP UK MP Kerry’s MarineServices Jones Maritime MP Bequia 18 Jolly Harbour 42 43 Grenada 34 Johnson Hardware 29 Martinique St.Lucia Bequia Island WaterWorld Iolaire Enterprises Trinidad Inboard DieselService Grenada Grenada Trinidad Grenadines Sails Bequia Grenada SailingFestival 37 MP Grenada Marine C/W 44 Gourmet Foods Golden Taste Gittens Engines 4 Free CruisingGuides Bequia Frangipani Hotel USA Ford Motors 5 40 C/W 48 Food Fair Fernando's Hideaway 34 9 MP Electropics Trinidad Tortola 26 Ed WillaimsInsurance St.Maarten St.Lucia Trinidad Echo Marine-JotunSpecial MP 11 Doyle's Guides Carriacou Curaçao Dominica Doyle OffshoreSails USA MP Down IslandRealEstate Martinique 19 Martinique Dominica MarineCenter Dockwise YachtTransport Diesel Outfitters PuertoRico De KornahBa Curaçao Marine Cooper Marine Club NauticoRegatta Clippers Ship , good ed Barbados Tel(246)243-6111 redecorate, US$135,000, chair, fishbox,recentinterior flat screenTV/DVD,fighting freezer andcockpitfreezer, 8kw gen,SubZerofridgeand 435h, 500galsfuel,100water, BERTRAM 371987 [email protected] thegelgroup.com ormartin. nearest offer.E-mailjulie.reece@ 120hp diesels.US$100,000or Barbados 1957,2xLeyland WOODEN YAWL “ECSTASY” TRADITIONAL [email protected] full details/photosE-mail considered. LyingBequia.for & lotsmore.415,000GBPoffers generator, air-con,EPIRB,VHF GPS, autopilot,watermaker, decks '08,2xchartplotters/ new rigging'08,teak out. 5cabins,4electricheads, Excellent conditionthrough- DYNAMIQUE 63' 459-3316 (473) 443-8730/457-5088/ anchored inCarriacou.Tel: 50FT WOODENVESSEL Tel: (473)538-4346 Sleeps fivewithamenities. Detroit 371dieselengines. ing barinCarriacou.2 TRAWLER. 46’ POWERBOAT/FISHING Hallelujah,float- ADVERTISERS INDEX , 54ft, Built in 54ft,Builtin , 2x6v71ta @ 2x6v71ta@ 1985 sloop. 1985 sloop. CLASSIFIEDS INSTRUMENTS TACKTICK WIRELESS/SOLAR bean.com/specials.htm DEALS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL SAILS ANDCANVAS [email protected] able. Tel:(596)696227113,E-mail Martinique, LeMarin.Pricenegoti- 6 cylinders225KWLocated MODEL 6CTA8.3-M1 CUMMINS DIESEL300HP Tel (758)4528531 [email protected] vane bestoffer Aries Circumnavigatorwind offer, 10ftValliantRIBUS890, US 250,Yanmar3HM35Fbest Barlow, Barient,Lewmarfrom 22" fromUS200,Winches, Sail boatprops3blade13"to Tohatsu 30HPlongshaftUS2000, (784) 432-5201 considered. BequiaTel: with fittings,EC$2300/offers CLUTCH PUMP,brandnew EC$4800/offers considered. work. TestdueOctober2010, son SOLASratedwithpaper- considered. LIFERAFT,8per- condition, EC$2000/offers SPINNAKER POLE, 3536 [email protected] US$125,000. OBOTel:787-366- utes boatridetoTortola,BVI. Safe, secureandjusta20min- ful beachandpoolfacilities. the BVI's.Adjacenttoabeauti- St. ThomasfacingSt.Johnand Slip (N-6)withfulltitle.EastEnd, St. Thomas,USVI,65ftMarina MARINA SLIPSAPPHIREBEACH [email protected]. ers. LyingTrinidad.E-mailjohn- apolloduck.com orbytheown- passages. Morephotosonwww. Nov.2010 andisreadyforfuture aboard yachtwaspainted Caribbean) andelegantlive safe cruising(Singaporeto BRUCE ROBERTS53,Steel [email protected] Lights 9kW.Needswork.E-mail Ford Lehman135Hp,Northern 1986 CT54US$150,000. www.northernrockiesassociates.com e akPit UA 17 MP MP 30 St.Lucia MP USA 23 MP St.Lucia 36 MP MP Trinidad Tortola MP 13 Aruba Sea HawkPaints MP Ryte Welding Bequia St.Lucia Rodney BaySails MP Bequia Roger's OutboardService Antigua PSV Renaissance Marina Grenada Tortola Quantum Sails Power Boats St.Lucia Porthole Restaurant 16 PJ's LaundryService 5 Piper Marine 7 45 Petit St.Vincent Perkins Engines 10 MP Barbados CaribbeanWide MP Palm HavenHotel MP 30 39 On Deck DominicanRep Grenada Tortola Off ShoreRiskManagement MP Tortola MP Northern LightsGenerators Martinique Mount GayRegatta Azores Trinidad St.Lucia Mid AtlanticYachtServices Mercury Marine 24 MP McIntyre Bros.Ltd Bequia Bequia Marina Zar-Par 14 Marigot BeachClub 18 Carriacou Marc OneMarine St.Lucia Maranne's IceCream St.Maarten Mango Bay LumbaDive Carriacou MP Grenada Lulley's Tackle LEssence Massage Le PhareBleuRegatta Laurena Hotel MP Lagoon Marina Bequia Kingfisher MarineServices MISC. FORSALE athttp://doylecarib- , Discount prices: , Discountprices: 16ft, good 16ft,good E-mail E-mail . This . This

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DECEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 up to 32up to 40up to 50 $0.80up to 60 $1.00up to 65 $1.10up to 75 $1.20 $0.68up to 80 $1.35 $0.85 $1.40 $0.94 $1.70 $1.02 $0.56 $1.15 $0.70 $1.19 $0.77 $1.45 $0.84 $0.95 $0.98 $1.19 up to 100 $1.75 $1.49 $1.23 LOA in feet Daily $/ft$/ft/day Monthly $/ft/day mths 6 For yachts above 100 feet LOA, and for feet bookings yachtsFor LOA, above of longer 100 periods, please contact us for a personalised quote. New Season Rates – 1 December to 31 May Season RatesNew – 1 December to 31 INDIES

WEST 1 (473) 415 0837 or email or email 0837 415 1 (473) + EGYPT | ITALY | MALTA | TURKEY | | MALTA EGYPT | ITALY www.cnmarinas.com/plm Port Louis Marina is justifiably known as one of the best appointed, as one of the best appointed, known justifiably is Marina Louis Port spectacular location its With the Caribbean. in full-service marinas the perfect cruising base for it’s capital, to the island’s adjacent Grenadines. the unspoilt a berth season, the forthcoming for rates new our with Now, affordable. more even is Marina Louis at Port to offer, has luxury and the marina the convenience all enjoy You’ll marina-wide security, 24-hour facilities, dockside exemplary including more. and broadband direct with airport, international own its from benefits also The island London. and York New to Miami, flights & Nicholsons Camper operated by and owned is Marina Louis Port on hand staff knowledgeable and are friendly our and Marinas, you. a day to welcome hours 24 Marina, a berth Louis about securing at Port information more For on Donelan Danny please contact [email protected] Port Louis Marina, Grenada – Grenada Marina, Louis Port affordable welcoming, beautiful, Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago