Winter 2010 Vol. 3 No. 4

Home , Dano (festival), Eight Provinces of Korea

Vol. 3 No. 4 Vol.

Winter 2010 Winter Y K Y M C

ISSN 2005-0151 ISSN 2005-0151

C M Y K

Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Winter 2010 Vol. 3Cultural No. Heritage 4 Administration, Republic of Korea Tel | 82-42-481-4731 Fax | 82-42-481-4759 http://english.cha.go.kr

Published | November 25, 2010

Published by | Cultural Heritage Administration Republic of Korea

Publication | Yi Kyung-hoon management Director of International Affairs Division Content | Yeo Sung-hee, Park Jung-eun, Kim Min-ok Cover coordination Translation | Lee Kyong-hee The cover design features tightrope walk- Proofreading | Ted Chan ing. Black symbolizes winter. The symbol- ism originates from the traditional “five Design Editing | Graphic Korea Co., Ltd Winter 2010 Vol. 3 No. 4 ∙ directional colors” based on the ancient Printed by | Graphic Korea Co., Ltd Chinese thought of wuxing, or ohaeng in Korean. The colors were associated with Cultural Heritage Administration, 2010 seasons and other phenomena in nature, including the fate of humans. For a story This publication is copyrighted. No part may be reproduced by any process without written permission. about tightrope walking, see Page 37. copyright Cultural Heritage Administration KOREAN HERITAGE is also available on the website. ( http://english.cha.go.kr ) 3 | 4

ADMINISTRATOR’S NOTE Korean Folk Customs

Korean Intangible Heritage Recognized by UNESCO Making Winter Kimchi

Three items of Korea’s traditional cultural heritage — architectural carpentry, lyrical Making kimchi to be eaten during the winter is song cycles and falconry — have earned international recognition. The UNESCO In- a major seasonal chore of Korean families, like tergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage making sauces in the summer. Preparing winter decided on November 16, at its fifth session held in Nairobi, Kenya, to add them to the kimchi, called kimjang, involves a method for Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. storing vegetables in the cold weather. The time for kimjang differs slightly from region to region, The latest inscription brings the total number of Korean items on the Representative but its season generally coincides with ipdong on List to 11. The inscription of falconry, in particular, is noteworthy. The time-old sport, November 7-8, the traditional time when winter is said to arrive. The quantity of involving the use of trained raptorial birds for hunting, was jointly nominated by 11 winter kimchi depends on the number of family members or other needs, but some countries, including Korea, the United Arab Emirates, Belgium, France and Mongolia. families consume as many as 100 heads of cabbage. It is the first joint inscription by countries from various cultural spheres of the East and the West. There are many kinds of kimchi, but winter varieties are mostly made of cabbage In the latest session of the UNESCO Intergovernmental Committee, Korea was also and radish with various spicy ingredients, including garlic, green onion, ginger, wa- renamed a member of the committee’s subsidiary body for 2011. The six-member body, ter dropwort, and red chili powder. Salt and pickled seafood are also indispensable founded in 2003 in accordance with the Convention for the Safeguarding of the In- for seasoning and helping fermentation. The most popular type of winter kimchi is tangible Cultural Heritage, is responsible for screening Representative List nominees. “whole cabbage kimchi” (tongbaechu kimchi). It is made by soaking cabbage cut in a Korea also served as a member in the 2009-2010 term. few vertical pieces in salt water; rinsing them and draining the water; cutting various ingredients and mixing them with chili powder and fish paste; and putting the mixture Through our role in the subsidiary body the Cultural Heritage Administration will in- between the cabbage leaves. The other two popular types are red diced radish kimchi crease its efforts to help in the international preservation and transmission of the intan- (kkakdugi) and white radish kimchi in water (dongchimi). gible cultural heritage of humanity. We believe that we can further strengthen our cultural capability through our activities with the body. We will also provide administrative Kimchi varies in recipe and method from one region to another and among families. and financial assistance so the Korean items on the Representative List can be better In general, people in warmer regions prefer saltier types of kimchi due to problems in preserved and promoted more actively at home and abroad. preservation. Maturing at constant temperatures around 5°C guarantees the optimum taste. In the past, winter kimchi was put in pottery jars and buried. Straw mats covered the storage site.

Yi, Kun Moo Administrator Cultural Heritage Administration Republic of Korea 5 | 6

Winter 2010 Vol. 3 No. 4

CONTENTS

07 World Heritage in Korea 29 Foreigner’s View

Historic Villages of Hahoe and Yangdong Yangdong: Joseon Period Residential Architecture

11 Modern Heritage 33 Documentary Heritage

Gunsan and Ganggyeong Old Maps of Korea and the World Colonial Extortion vs. Survival Struggle Geographical Views of Our Ancestors

17 Science for Cultural Heritage 37 Intangible Heritage

The Sacred Bell of King Seongdeok Tightrope Walking, The Flower of Folk Yard Show Science Hidden in the Divine Sound

21 Photo Gallery 41 Natural Heritage

Journey to the Snow Country Life with Big Old Trees In Search of Frost Flowers on Mt. Jiri World Heritage in Korea 7 | 8

1 2

Hahoe and Yangdong are living heritage sites, tage of the outstanding natural surroundings 2. Yangdong Village: The village developed along where their residents sustain the traditional produced by the different topography. The several small valleys run- lifestyle of Korean people, defying moderniza- villages seem disorderly at first glance, with ning in parallel from its main guardian mountain at tion. In this regard, their designation as World buildings situated to view a river or moun- Historic Villages of Hahoe and Yangdong the rear. Heritage sites carries greater significance as tains. But they actually mesh beautifully with

Text & photos by Cultural Heritage Administration the international community has recognized the locale to create impressive landscapes, the value of Korean lifestyle in close harmony providing outstanding examples of traditional with nature. Korean villages in harmony with their natural environment. The overall spatial composition Spatial Composition and Landscape and the layout of buildings in both villages 1. Hahoe Village: A river Recognition as World Heritage Sites The committee noted that both villages have embraces the village from Hahoe and Yangdong are both in North Gyeo- stand for the traditional thought of Koreans three sides, hence the successfully maintained their traditional en- Hahoe and Yangdong, the two most repre- ngsang Province in southeastern Korea. Ad- regarding site selection and their Confucian name Hahoe Maeul, vironments, featuring residences of clan 3. A view of Mulbong Val- meaning the “river circling sentative historic villages of Korea, were ministratively, Hahoe belongs to the city of world view. ley in Yangdong Village. head families, pavilions, private study halls village.” inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage Andong, and Yangdong to Gyeongju. Hahoe and academies for advanced learning. It also List at the 34th session of the World Heritage hugs the Nakdong River, which flows around highly valued efforts by the villages’ residents Committee, held on July 25 to August 3, 2010. three sides of the village, while Yangdong is in preserving the academic and artistic ac- nestled along ridges stretching from Mt. Seol- The committee said the two villages deserved complishments of ancient Confucian scholars, chang behind the village. In Hahoe, buildings the inscription because their layout and loca- seasonal customs, rituals marking significant face alleyways branching out in different di- tion fully reflect the distinctive social structure life passages such as weddings and funerals, rections from the main road, while buildings in and aristocratic Confucian culture of the early as well as religious practices, and in passing Yangdong stand along valleys amid mountain years of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Ha- these intangible legacies from generation to ridges extending from north of the village. hoe and Yangdong thus became Korea’s 10th generation. World Heritage sites. These ancient clan communities took advan- 3 World Heritage in Korea 9 | 10

in the inner quarters and men in the outer quar- Some of the most famous Confucian acad- ters. In both villages some financially pinched emies are found in Hahoe and Yangdong. noblemen lived in thatched roof houses, which The Confucian academies (seowon) were tended to have floor plans similar to tiled roof private educational institutions which began houses. But thatched roof houses basically to emerge as Neo-Confucianism took root as represented the native housing style of the re- the guiding ideology of Joseon society. These gion. private academies, which combined the role Pavilions, Study Halls and Academies of sage veneration, were founded by influential aristocratic scholars in their hometowns, The Confucian view of the world served as the mostly at scenic spots removed from provin- founding philosophy of these two elite clan cial or county administrative seats. communities. Hahoe and Yangdong residents built houses embodying their Confucian world The private academies-cum-shrines typically

view, where they lived from generation to gen- had an elevated pavilion standing at their en- 7 trance, facing wide outdoor space. These two- 4 eration, consolidating unity among clan members and pursuing common prosperity. They story open pavilions were favored as relaxing tional Treasure No. 283). 7. A scene from the Mask Dance Drama for Hahoe 4. The House of Loyalty strengthened their power around the residenc- spaces for scholars to enjoy breaks, contem- Important Houses Among other valuable documents handed Shamanic Rites (Hahoe and Filial Piety (Chunghyo- es of clan head families and heads of branch plating nature and recharging their body and byeolsingut talnori). dang), the home of a head Typical aristocratic residences of the Joseon down in leading aristocratic families are royal family of the Pungsan Ryu lineages, ancestral shrines, study halls, acad- mind. citations and award certificates, genealogical clan in Hahoe Village. period and commoners’ homes embodying the emies and pavilions, which formed unique Rituals and Folk Customs records, and documents on construction proj- lifestyle of traditional agrarian society coex- cultural landscapes of these historic villages. ects, rites and asset transactions. These are ist in Hahoe and Yangdong. Most houses in Hahoe and Yangdong stand out among numer- Study halls (jeongsa) and pavilions (jeongja), all valuable resources for study of East Asian these villages were built on wooden frames ous traditional villages throughout Korea for in particular, were intended to provide se- Confucian history. and covered with tiled or straw-thatched roofs. their successful preservation of both tangible Noblemen usually lived in houses with tiled cluded places in nature, where upper-class residents could relax and enjoy natural scen- and intangible legacies. The big old trees over roofs, while commoners and servants lived in ery, or retreats where they could read, study 600 years old in these villages eloquently ex- thatched homes. and contemplate the rules of nature. Only men emplify their long history. Traditional ances- The tiled roof houses in Hahoe and Yangdong of notable social and economic status could tral ceremonies and the communal rites deeply generally have square floor plans in typical erect these buildings. Therefore, the number related with native religious belief, as well as group games such as tug-of-war, and boating 8. Tongjian Xubian (Sequel North Gyeongsang regional style with sepa- of study halls and outdoor pavilions indicated to Comprehensive Mirror rate living quarters for men and women as de- the dignity and stature of individual villages in and fireworks play, continue to be practiced for Aid in Government, today. Tonggam Sokpyeon in manded by Confucian society. Women lived Joseon society. Korean), a 14-century Chi- nese history book, handed 5. The House of Jeong Ancient Books and Documents down in Yangdong Village. Sun-i, a typical thatched It is National Treasure home of commoners in Hahoe and Yangdong have successfully pre- No. 283. Yangdong Village. served not only their traditional buildings and 9. Jingbirok (A Record for 6 The Valley Pavilion natural terrain but ancient books and docu- Penitence and Warning), (Gyejeong), built for study 8 written by Ryu Seong- and meditation in nature, ments representing the academic and cultural ryong, the wartime first in Yangdong Village. accomplishments of prominent historical fig- state councilor during the ures produced by the villages. Some of these Japanese invasions in 1592–1598, handed down books are under state protection as “national in Hahoe Village. It is treasures,” including Jingbirok (A Record for National Treasure No. 132. Penitence and Warning, National Treasure No. 132) and Tongjian Xubian (Sequel to Compre- 54 6 hensive Mirror for Aid in Government, Na- 9 Modern Heritage 11 | 12

Japan requested the opening of Busan, 1. A downtown area of Ganggyeong. Wonsan and Incheon ports in the Treaty of 2. The old Gunsan branch Ganghwa, which it signed with the govern- of Joseon Bank is a legacy ment of the Joseon Dynasty in 1876. Busan of the local history of mod- ernization. (Registered Cul- was the nearest of Korean ports to Japan; tural Property No. 374) Incheon was a useful gateway to Seoul; and 3. Location of Gunsan and Wonsan was considered strategically impor- Ganggyeong. tant to block Russia’s southward advance. Collectively, the three ports gave Japan ac- cess to the Korean peninsula from all of its three sides.

In accordance with the extraterritoriality clause of the treaty, Japan established its set- 2 tlements on leased land in the opened ports and embarked on railway projects to connect 1899, and a month later, on June 2, Japan set the ports to Seoul and other inland areas. up its settlement on a leased estate totaling Gunsan and Ganggyeong The three rail lines of Gyeongin (Seoul— 572,000 square meters around Yeonghwa- Incheon), Gyeongbu (Seoul—Busan) and dong, Jangmi-dong and Jungang-no 1-ga in Gyeongwon (Seoul—Wonsan) were thus what is now the central part of the city. Colonial Extortion vs. Survival Struggle constructed, and lighthouses were installed Text by Kim Jong-heon, Professor at Paichai University at the ports. By so doing Japan paved its way Photos by Kim Jong-heon & Jeon Jae-hong to advance deeper into Korea.

Gunsan: Rice from Fertile Granary

Japan needed a more detailed transport 2 network to secure practical gains from Ko- rea. Accordingly, it attained the opening of Seoul three additional ports — Gunsan, Masanpo and Seongjin — and built settlements in the ports. Under Japan’s initiative, Korea began to transform around the newly opened ports, shedding its traditional transportation system built around inland cities. Ganggyyeong

Gunsan, in particular, captivated Japan’s in- Gunsan terest due to its location along Korea’s mid- western coastline. What attracted Japan was Busan the rich rice harvest from the broad fertile fields equipped with well-developed irriga- tion systems in the Honam (Jeolla) region, which was approachable through Gunsan. Rice cultivation was a mainstay industry in Japan and the vast granaries in this region were regarded as a crucial source of rice Jeju 3 1 supply. Gunsan port was opened on May 1, 3 Modern Heritage 13 | 14

4. The old Gunsan branch Gunsan, at the time, had reed fields on its Modern Cultural Heritage in Gunsan of Nagasaki 18 Bank (Reg- istered Cultural Property eastern side and was surrounded by moun- No. 372). tains along its southwestern border. Japan As a satellite city for shipping rice to Ja- reclaimed the reed fields, leveled the ground, pan, Gunsan took on a different appearance built a city along a grid pattern and installed from Japanese settlements in other Korean a Japanese-style road system. All urban fa- cities. One outstanding example was its cilities were clustered around the rail station railroad station built in the typical Japanese and port, with roads laid in ways to efficient- wooden architectural style, whereas the ly collect rice from the nearby fields. The key train stations in other cities such as Busan administrative and commercial institutions, and Sinuiju were designed in classical including the Gunsan Customs Office, the Western styles. Japanese entrepreneurs who amassed wealth from massive reclamation Gunsan branch of Joseon Bank (Registered 6 Cultural Property No. 374) and the Gunsan projects or farms in this region built their houses in Japanese style. This is the rea- branch of Nagasaki 18 Bank (Registered guksa (Registered Cultural Property No. 6. The old house of Hirotsu son Japanese-style houses still dot Gunsan, Keisabro in Gunsan (Reg- Cultural Property No. 372) as well as the 64), a Buddhist temple built in the Edo retaining the city’s modern cultural ambi- istered Cultural Property third office of the City Hall, were all built in style with an impressive main hall. The No. 183). ence, which has now formed its historical Jangmi-dong and Yeonghwa-dong, located Gunsan Customs Office also speaks for the to the west of the present Jungang-no street. identity, though not without the shadow of 4 colonial oppression. once significant stature of Gunsan as a re- In the area between the railway station and gional economic hub. This building over- port, to the east of Jungang-no, were built nese farms also formed a unique landscape Japanese-style houses in Gunsan are di- all exhibits Japanese wooden architectural rice mills and grain cooperatives. Gunsan of Gunsan. The old storage facility of Shi- vided largely into two types: rich men’s style, though some Western-style decora- was where the rice harvest gathered from matani Farm (Registered Cultural Property individual residences and townhouse-type tive details are apparent. nagaya, or row houses. Most notable in the the vast fields around the Jeolla provinces No. 182) is among the modern architectural 7. The lighthouse on Eo- was collected, processed and sold for cash at remains attesting to Japan’s exploitation of former type is the house of Hirotsu Keisa- cheong Island, built by the grain cooperatives before shipment to Japan. Korean rice. bro, who ran a dry goods store in Yeongh- Japanese in 1912 (Reg- istered Cultural Property At the time, rice mills were among the most wa-dong. This modern palatial residence in No. 378). The image of Gunsan as a rice-exporting port important industrial facilities in Gunsan, the style of samurai-class houses, named 5. Gimje Plain forms the is vividly described in History of Gunsan center of the fertile gra- characterizing its cityscape. the Hirotsu House (Registered Cultural nary of Honam region in Port Opening (Gunsan gaehang sa), pub- Property No. 183), features all the essen- southwestern Korea. Storage buildings that belonged to Japa- lished in 1925 by pro-Japanese historians. It tial elements of the typical shoin residential says: “On the rooftop of the customs office, architecture, including recessed alcoves on the dock, on the road, and everywhere (tokonoma), inner hallways and well-tend- around the city, hundreds of sacks of rice ed tatami mat floors, as well as a relatively are piled up in orderly rows, amounting to spacious garden. 200,000 seok... Oh, how great you are! The rice of Gunsan!” Japanese-style row houses in Gunsan, mostly consisting of two to four units next Ironically, the development of Gunsan as a to one another, were built over wooden modern port city brought difficulties to most frames with the outer walls covered with of its residents. In 1934, under special mea- plastic panels. These so-called machiya sures of the Japanese colonial government to houses combined shops and living quar- boost rice production, a total of 16,720,000 ters. Similar houses are also found in sacks of rice were produced in Korea, 60 Ganggyeong. percent of which, or 8,910,000 sacks, were exported to Japan. Of these, over three mil- Another remarkable architectural remnant 3 5 lion sacks were shipped from Gunsan. from the colonial era in Gunsan is Dong- 7 Modern Heritage 15 | 16

8. Geumseong Tea House, Three hours by boat from Gunsan port, ther weaken its commercial base, fishing a Japanese-style wooden building, in Ganggyeong. Eocheong Island has a famous lighthouse, boats grew ever larger so they were unable to which was built by the Japanese in 1912 and sail into its harbor. The river was reclaimed is currently Registered Cultural Property No. to build roads, eventually disabling the com- 378. This beautiful lighthouse, a cylindri- mercial function of Ganggyeong. cal tower tapering slightly upward to imbue There is a silver lining behind all misfor- a sense of stability, has a pedimented porch tunes. While its urban functions deteriorated, adorned with pear blossom patterns at the top Ganggyeong was able to keep its modern of the triangle. The tower boasts a circular buildings from the hazards of development. prefabricated staircase and a wooden duct, More interestingly, Ganggyeong preserved which facilitated the movement of metal rod and pendulum. The wooden duct rises up to its character as a commercial town where people survived through day-to-day struggle the lantern room. The lighting system here 8 10 took advantage of the gravity of mercury by at the harbor market against the tide of mod- ernization. The down-to-earth experience of floating the lens assembly on it. a ship collision near the island, on his way to With these exotic modern buildings pre- 10. The old Ganggyeong its population resulted in the unique urban branch of Hanil Bank is Mokpo. In recent years, the island has been served with relative success, Ganggyeong Eocheong Island, with a natural inlet for face of Ganggyeong, distinguishing it from a localized Western-style a popular destination for bird watchers from nowadays showcases how Korean architec building. (Registered Cul- anchoring boats, was long known as a fa- other modern cities like Busan, Incheon, tural Property No. 324) around the world. ture and urban environment have changed vorite recreation spot for sailors, along with Daejeon, Mokpo, or even Guns an, whose while mingling with other cultures. In this Soheuksan Island. It was also a strategically Ganggyeong: Battleground for Survival growth was based more on their administra- important location installed with a beacon regard, Ganggyeong is a valuable city with a The growth of Gunsan as Japan’s primary base tive, political or military significance. tower since the Goryeo period (918-1392). distinctly sturdy character, which represents for plundering rice hit the nearby inland har- The island has a shrine dedicated to Tian Eclectic House Styles the self-sustaining ability of the Korean peo- bor of Ganggyeong the hardest. Ganggyeong Heng (?-202 BC), a Chinese warrior at the ple. was an ideal inland harbor, situated deep in With the development of Gunsan port, Ja- end of the Warring States period, who is re- the mainland to connect to the estuary of the pan’s expanding power clashed with the 9. The lighthouse on Eo- vered in the coastal areas of both China and Geum River through the two major streams, merchants of Ganggyeong, who had con- cheong Island, built by Korea. In 1902, Henry G. Appenzeller, an the Japanese in 1912 Ganggyeongcheon and Nonsancheon. A vi- trolled the market through much of the Jo- (Registered Cultural Prop- American Methodist missionary who found- tal transport center linked to Gongju to the seon period. Cultural conflicts also became 11. The old building of erty No. 378). ed Korea’s first Western-style school, died in north and Jeonju to the south by both land evident as traditional Korean culture clashed Ganggyeong Overseas Chinese School (Regis- and water, Ganggyeong also had the nation’s with Japanese culture as well as Chinese and tered Cultural Property most fertile granaries to its back as well as modern Western culture. As a result, houses No. 337). a waterway to bring fishing boats from the built in this period characteristically have West Sea to its dock. Thanks to these blissful eclectic features harmonizing Korean and geographic conditions, Ganggyeong thrived foreign styles. as one of the nation’s three largest markets Among notable buildings combining Korean during the Joseon period (1392-1910). and foreign architectural styles are the old The commercial power of Ganggyeong dras- headquarters of Ganggyeong Labor Union tically shrank, however, with the opening of (Registered Cultural Property No. 323), Gunsan port in 1899 and subsequent con- Bugok Methodist Church (Registered Cul- struction of rail lines connecting Gunsan to tural Property No. 42), Namildang Oriental major cities. Ganggyeong lost much of its in- Clinic (Registered Cultural Property No. 10), dustrial infrastructure during the Korean War. the old Ganggyeong branch of Hanil Bank The Honam Expressway constructed in the (Registered Cultural Property No. 324), and 1970s further isolated Ganggyeong fromthe Ganggyeong Overseas Chinese School (Reg- 9 sweeping wave of industrialization. To fur- istered Cultural Property No. 337). 11 Science for Cultural Heritage 17 | 18

The Sacred Bell of King Seongdeok Science Hidden in the Divine Sound Text by Lee Hyeon-ju, Guest Reporter, Korea Knowledge Portal Photos by Topicphoto Agency

Miracle of Buddhist Art and Science molten bronze as beseeched by a monk who had to complete the bell after repeated fail- The Sacred Bell of King Seongdeok over- ures over 34 long years. whelms the viewer with its graceful appearance. The majestic bronze bell, cast in 771 Secret of the Sound during the Unified Silla period, is 3.7 meters The sound of this bell, dubbed “the sound of tall and weighs some 19 tons. But it is not heaven,” clearly shows a beating phenom- simply because of its unusual size that the enon, which is characterized by periodic vi- bell is prized as an invaluable treasure. It is brations surging and receding repeatedly in a miraculous work of science, fine art and re- a certain cycle. In acoustic science, a beat ligious faith from the golden age of ancient is defined as a specific type of sound that is Korean civilization. 1. The Sacred Bell of King The surface of this beautiful bell, also known Seongdeok is highly prized as the Emille Bell or the Bell of Bongdeoksa for its deep resonant sound and graceful appearance. Temple, is decorated with exquisite reliefs. 2. The surface of the bell But even more impressive is its deep reso- is skillfully decorated with nant sound with clear pealing notes. As the diverse patterns. waves of its divine sound melts over a large area, the swelling and subsiding of undulat- ing resonance produces a resplendent tone, an enigmatic acoustic phenomenon that lasts over one minute. The vibration in the lowest register continues as long as three minutes.

The famous legend about human sacrifice for its production aside, the sound of this bell leaves in the heart of the listener an indelible mark reverberating with a sober undertone. They say the bell’s name Emille came from the weeping sound of a young girl calling out her mother. But no historical records confirm 1 the sad story that a young girl was put in the 2 Science for Cultural Heritage 19 | 20

3. Delicate patterns at the created when striking an object with a round ergy at various spots of the asymmetric body characters, which explains why the bell was lower end of the bell. hollow space inside like a glass or a bell; it of the bell to create different air vibrations, made and who participated in the project, resembles a weeping sound rising and ebb- which in turn produce various sound waves also reflects advanced technology and liter- ing continuously like a pulse. Theoretically, that mingle with one another to be perceived ary erudition. a beat occurs due to interference between as a deep resonant sound. two sounds of slightly different frequencies that are perceived as periodic vibrations in Sound Pipe and Striking Point volume. The two sounds alternately interfere The Sacred Bell has a dragon-shaped hook constructively and destructively, the tremolo and a bamboo-shaped sound pipe at the top. increasing and decreasing accordingly. The ornate hollow pipe, which is not found on Sound waves are perceived differently ac- bells of China and Japan, dampens unwanted cording to their frequencies. Two beats are reverberation when the bell is rung. High recognized in the reverberating notes from 3 frequency waves that would be perceived as 5. A dragon-shaped hook the Sacred Bell of King Seongdeok: one noise are sucked out through this pipe, while The Sacred Bell produces some 50 differ- is unique to Korean temple occurring nine seconds after striking and waves of other frequencies are kept inside bells. ent sound waves under 1,000 hertz, which repeating once every nine seconds thereaf- the bell, contributing to distinctive beats. 6. The bell has four square mingle with one another, each dissipating at areas, each containing ter, echoing like “emille...”; and the other Unlike Western bells, Korean bells have a a different time depending on its frequency, nine lotus roundels. resembling a gasping sound and occurring striking point at a specific spot, with decora- 4. Elegant relief images of to produce intriguing notes. Another famous 7. The striking point is once every three seconds. The latter sound is tive patterns deliberately positioned around in the shape of a lotus heavenly maidens adorn bell comparable to the Sacred Bell in size the bell. similar to human breath and lasts longer. it. The striking point of the Sacred Bell, in flower. and weight, Great Paul at St. Paul’s Cathe- dral in London is known to produce less than the shape of a lotus flower in full bloom, is 20 sound waves. Great Paul, weighing 17 known to be on a spot that can produce the 5 tons, was cast in 1881. most resonant secondary vibration.

Secret of Precise Beating Lost-Wax Method Defying Modern Tech- nology If a bell is to produce the desired sound, it has to be shaped in accordance with a pre- The Sacred Bell was cast with the lost-wax cise plan. Ancient Korean bell founders had method, recognized to be the most difficult the technology to cast a huge bronze bell un- technique in the production of large bronze der an accurate calculation to produce tones bells. This is why Korean bells differ from leading to beats at nine- and three-second Chinese and Japanese bells in shape and intervals. sound quality. The method calls for making a wax model of the desired object, pasting Scientists have found the minute asymme- 6 thick layers of clay over the model, drying tries in the shape of the Sacred Bell to be the it to form a mold, melting the wax inside by factor behind the intricate beats of its sound. heating, and pouring molten metal into the Although the bell looks to have a strictly cavity. symmetric shape, the decorative patterns and carvings on its surface are not symmetric This method enabled elaborate sculpting to and the density and thickness of the bronze express the detailed decorative designs on the also differ slightly from one section to an- surface of the bell. Carving on metal would other. Furthermore, chunks of steel are par- have failed to achieve the elegant beauty of tially pasted on the interior. Therefore, when decoration as well as the varying thickness the bell is struck with a wooden beam, the of bronze to produce distinctive beats. The 4 kinetic energy is converted into friction en- long inscription of more than 1,000 Chinese 7 Photo Gallery

Journey to the Snow Country In Search of Frost Flowers on Mt. Jiri Photos by Jo Doo-soon, Simong Agency Photo Gallery 23 | 24

Mt. Jiri, rising 1,915 meters above sea level and straddling The best time of the day to start the course is before dawn breaks. three provinces, is the tallest and the widest mountain in South Under the dark blue winter sky, the craggy trail gradually unveils Korea. The shortest route from the bottom of the mountain to a mysterious world of old pines and dead trees blooming with gor- many of its long, lofty ridges requires at least three to four geous frost flowers. As one continues to climb up in wonder, the hours. The course starting from Baekmudong (White War- sun rises at last, casting its brilliant rays. It is the moment Mt. Jiri rior’s Valley) and leading to Jangteomok (Marketplace Cor- begins to unmask its indescribable beauty and the hearts of trekkers ner) and Cheonwangbong (Heavenly King Peak) is the most throb with vibrant joy. The sunrise unveils the irresistible charm of renowned for its fascinating winter scenery. the famous mountain that simply defies words. Photo Gallery 25 | 26

The Mount Jiri National Park is the oldest and the largest of Korea’s 20 national parks. It cov- ers an area of 471.758 square kilometers, com- prising one city, four counties and 15 towns and townships of three provinces ― South Gyeong- sang, and North and South Jeolla. Towering over the vast terrain of endless ridges and valleys are the three main peaks ― Cheonwangbong (1,915 meters), Banyabong (Prajna Peak, 1,732 meters) and Nogodan (Terrace of Peach Goddess, 1,507 meters). These peaks soar above some 20 majestic ridge lines and large valleys. Photo Gallery 27 | 28

Mt. Jiri is one of the most popular tourist destinations among Koreans through the four seasons. Visitors flocking to the valleys seek a cool respite from the summer heat, enjoy the splendid foliage in autumn and admire the pure white frost flowers in winter. Frost flowers, also called ice flowers and nunkkot in Korean, meaning “snow flower,” are not snow- flakes perching on trees. In late autumn to early winter, the fog rising from the ground in the early morning freezes and sticks on trees, forming exquisite “petals.” Hence, on an early morning on a high mountain is when and where the most beautiful frost flowers can be found. Foreigner’sWorld Heritage View in Korea 29 | 30

space was integrated into the house for liv- 2. Portrait of Son So (Trea- sure No. 1216) Painted in ing and it also allowed gi, or energy created the late 15th, this portrait by the constant interaction between eum and shows the typical portrait style of the early Joseon Yangdong: Joseon Period Residential Architecture yang, to flow through the house to the benefit Dynasty. of the occupants. Text by Robert J. Fouser | An associate professor of teaching Korean as second language at Seoul National University, War and economic development have de- Mr. Fouser has lived in Korea for 10 years and writes frequently about Korean art and culture. stroyed most traditional architecture in rural Photos by Cultural Heritage Administration Korea, but several villages remain largely intact. The most authentically preserved village is Yangdong, about 16 kilometers from Gyeongju in North Gyeongsang Province. In 2010, Yangdong was inscribed as a UNES- CO World Heritage Site, along with Ha- hoe, another important folk village in North Gyeongsang Province. Under the protection of the government since 1984, Yangdong is 2 particularly valuable because the 150 tradi- to experiment with geomancy in the early tional houses, some of which are Treasures, Joseon period. in the village clearly reflect the dominant philosophy and aesthetic sense of the Joseon The history of Yangdong is also one of co- period (1392-1910). operation and competition between the two founding clans: the Wolseong Son and The Siting of Yangdong the Yeogang Yi. These two families were The architecture of Yangdong is closely tied brought together by the marriage of Son to the principles of pungsu jiri, or East Asian So’s only daughter to Yi Beon of the Yeo- geomancy. According to the principles of gang Yi clan in the middle of the 15th cen- geomancy, a building or grave site should tury. Their descendants competed for status be protected from the negative influence of and power in the village without resorting to eum by a large mountain to the north. The open conflict, which would have threatened site should face a plain and a source of water the stability of the system in which the ruling to the south; this allows the positive forces of 1 yangban families prospered. The Son and Yi 1 yang to flow into the site. clans both ran Confucian schools (seodang) to prepare their children for the state civil 1. Landscape of Yangdong Real estate agents in Korea quickly direct The importance of eum and yang in Korea Yangdong fits these requirements well. The Village. service examinations. By the middle of the customers to apartments with a warm south- has deep roots in the history of the relation- village is protected by a large mountain in Joseon period, Yangdong was dominated by ern exposure on a high floor, and preferably ship between the natural environment and the north and smaller mountain ridges to the four large families that ruled over parts of the a mountain view. Customers want to live in traditional upper-class residential architec- east and west. A stream flows from the moun- village; each family sought to preserve and a space full of yang, the positive elements ture. Nature was important in determining tain in the north through the main valley of extend its influence over the village. of the universe, because it brings warmth the location of entire communities and the the village to the Hyeongsan River, which and prosperity. They avoid apartments with relationship of the buildings in the com- flows through a large, fertile plain south of Architecture was one of the important visual a northern exposure because this space is munity to the natural environment. Nature the village. This geomantically propitious means at their disposal to emphasize their full of eum, the negative elements of the uni- entered the living space to create a third site no doubt attracted Son So (1433-84), the power and status in the village because pa- verse, which creates a cold and unhealthy form of space, the maru, an unheated inte- first nobleman to move to Yangdong, to build trons could manipulate the visual language living space. rior space with large windows and doors that his house here. His arrival followed in the of a building for their own purposes. Build- lies between floor-heated ondol rooms. This footsteps of other yangban who were eager ings were not only a representation of power WorldForeigner’s Heritage View in Korea 31 | 32

valley to the south. The Gwangajeong stands in sharp contrast to the Hyangdan because of its emphasis on open spaces and its integra- tion into the contours of the site. The most dramatic of these spaces is the terrace-like maru, which is surrounded by the outside on three sides. The Gwangajeong was built by Son Jung-don in the mid-Joseon period after he broke away from the main branch of the Son family. Like the Hyangdan, this house became one of the four major power centers 5 in the village. to geomancy, this location offers the family 5. Mucheomdang (House Original Centers of Power: Mucheom- of No Disgrace): This is the 3 ancestral shrine the most protection. dang and Seobaekdang head residence of the Yi clan hailing from Yeogang, Symbols of Authority one of the two most influ- 3. Hyangdan (Fragrant Al- relations in the village, but also played a vital Monumental: The Hyangdan As centers of offshoots of the two founding tar) : It is markedly differ- ential families in Yangdong role in the process of creation and mainte- families of Yangdong, the Hyangdan and From our tour of the above four buildings, Village. ent in layout of buildings, Of the houses of the four most power- floor plan and spatial- ar nance of those power relations. Gwangajeong are situated in the high ar- we have seen how the builders and patrons rangement from Gwanga- ful families in Yangdong — the Hyangdan eas of the village closest to the Hyeongsan of these aristocratic houses used the basic jeong, which stands right A Tour of Yangdong (Treasure No. 412), the Gwangajeong, the across the valley. River. The original houses of the Wolseong elements of design to create grand houses Mucheomdang and the Seobaekdang — the Our tour of Yangdong begins with a drive Son clan and the Yeogang Yi clan, however, that stood as symbols of power and author- Hyangdan makes the strongest impression along the narrow road that leads up to the are in the inner sections of the village that ity in the community. The noblemen and of grandeur at the lower end of the valley. village. The road follows a constricted space lie closer to the mountains that surround the their master carpenters created architectural Taking its name from a large cedar tree in between the mountains and the Hyeongsan village. The Mucheomdang (Treasure No. masterpieces that show us the beauty of the the front garden, the Hyangdan is a large, River before it makes a dramatic entrance 411), the original house of the Yeogang Yi union between nature and living space. For intimidating structure of closed spaces. into the southern end of the valley that hous- clan, sits on a hill on the side of a small val- those of us who are looking for more than The Hyangdan was built for Yi Eon-jeok’s 6. Seobaekdang (House es Yangdong. An elementary school now ley that diverges from the main valley to the a shelter in a box, these houses stand as his- mother in the early 16th century as a royal of One Hundred Writings): stands at the entrance to the village. Mov- left about halfway between the river and the torical reminders of a powerful architectural This is the head residence reward for his service as governor of Gyeo- ing further into the valley, several large tra- mountains. This house was built around the legacy that lives on in most Koreans: invit- of the Son clan hailing from 4. Gwangajeong (House of ngsang Province. Yi Eon-jeok (1491-1553) Wolseong, one of the two ditional houses appear high on the hills to year 1460 by Yi Eon-jeok’s father, Yi Beon. ing yang in is just as important as shutting Watching Growing Poster- was a well-known Confucian scholar who is most influential families in ity) : This house served as the west, and many thatched-roof houses and The present site comprises the Mucheom- the elements out. Yangdong Village. the head residence of the credited with founding the Yeongnam school smaller tiled-roof houses lie at the foot of dang, the Bongsacheong, a guest villa, and a Yeogang Yi clan until the of Neo-Confucianism. The house originally early 20th century. these hills. large sadang, a structure containing alters to had 99 bays (kan, or the space between two ancestors, which indicates that the house is columns), the maximum space allowed for the main house of a clan. houses other than royal palaces, but many of its rooms were in subsidiary buildings that Going back to the main valley and then deteriorated over time, leaving the present deeper into the village to the north, we come structure with only 51 bays. to a small valley leading off the main valley. This valley leads us to the Seobaekdang, the Basking in Yang: The Gwangajeong main house of the Wolseong Son clan. Built Moving further along the top of this hill by Son So, the Seobaekdang is an excellent toward the Hyeongsan River, we find the example of early Joseon period architecture Gwangajeong (Treasure No. 442) slightly with its simple layout and austere design. hidden behind trees. This site basks in the The sadang faces directly south from the 4 yang emanating from the Hyeongsan River northeastern quarter of the site. According 6 Documentary Heritage 33 | 34

Old Maps of Korea and the World Geographical Views of Our Ancestors

Text by Rii Hae-un, Professor Dongguk University Photos by Cultural Heritage Administration

How did our ancestors learn about their 1. “Integrated Map of His- torical Countries and Capi- national territory and the world without tals” (Honil gangni yeokdae visiting every place, especially when roads gukdo jido), made in 1402, is the oldest extant world and communication systems were not de- map in Korea. veloped as they are today. And how can we uncover the geographical perspectives of our ancestors? Maps are the clues.

In Korea, maps of the world and the nation have been made since the Three Kingdom period (first century BC−AD seventh century). Unfortunately, most of the earliest maps do not exist now. So to learn about them we must rely on recorded descriptions such as those about Goryeo Dynasty (918- 1392) maps having nice compositions.

Maps reflect not only people’s geographical knowledge about places but also the political, social, economic, cultural and technological aspects of historical periods. Maps drawn by using traditional methods, not modern surveying and cartography, are generally called “old maps.”

Among the thousands of extant old maps of Korea most were made during the Jo- seon Dynasty (1392-1910). Through these maps, we can study the evolution of cartographic techniques as well as our ances- 1 tors’ views of their neighbors, cities and Documentary Heritage 35 | 36

do jido), made in 1402, is the oldest exist- out, the map is 3 meters wide and 7 meters 4. “Map of Beacon Mounds and Mountains in ing world map in Korea, as well as one of long. Later, Kim made another masterpiece, Eight Provinces of Korea” the best ancient world maps anywhere. The “General Detail Map of Korea” (Daedong (Haedong paldo bonghwa sanak jido). map was made by a team of scholars un- yeoji jeondo), which is smaller. der royal orders by combining several Old maps made during the Joseon period maps made in previous eras at home and have several characteristics. First, the gov- abroad. It presents Africa with the Nile, the ernment led projects to produce accurate Middle East, Europe and Russia in shapes maps of the country and regions for admin- very similar to their present form, while the istration and military uses. Second, maps Korea peninsula is as large as the African were developed from small-scale maps to continent. large-scale ones and from general maps to “Map of East Asia” (Hwadong gojido), as- those focusing on specific subjects. Some sumed to have been made in the 16th cen- maps reflected cartographic features of tury, shows the China-centered world view modern maps, while others were pictorial of Koreans. Similar to “Integrated Map of presentations of mountain ranges and riv- 2 Historical Countries and Capitals” in gen- ers. Third, some maps applied the concept eral shape, this map does not include Ja- of pungsu, the East Asian geomancy, to the 2. ”Map of the World” towns, the nation and the world. More than (Cheonhado) combines the pan and the Arab region. Instead, Korea is human body. In other words, they symboli- 4 China-centered world view 40 of the extant maps are registered with presented in greater detail, using different cally represented the natural environment and imaginary notion of the government as national cultural assets. colors to highlight each province of China the globe. of the country as a human body. They exhibit excellent map-making skills. and Korea. “Map of the World” (Cheonha- “Integrated Map of Historical Countries do), an imaginative T and O map also based and Capitals” (Honil gangni yeokdae guk- on a China-centered world view, is another unique map. It was not drawn on a separate sheet, but was always put on the first page 5.”Map of Korea” (Cheon- ggudo), which served as of the atlas. the basis of “Detail Map of Korea” (Daedong yeojido), Among old maps made by individuals, the magnum opus of Kim “Detail Map of Korea” (Daedong yeojido) Jeong-ho. is regarded as the most accurate and sci- entific. This famous map, made by Kim Jeong-ho, was first published in 1861. A revised version appeared in 1864. The map shows Kim had knowledge of longitude and latitude, but he used a grid system to apply the extensive information he attained during field trips. Kim produced this magnum opus by revising and extending his earlier work, “Map of Korea” (Cheong- gudo), made in 1834.

“Detail Map of Korea” consists of 22 sepa- 3. “Detail Map of Korea” rate sheets printed from woodblocks. It (Daedong yeojido), made in divides the Korean peninsula into as many late Joseon by Kim Jeong- ho, known as the “father of sections from the north to south and is de- 5 Korean cartography.” 3 signed to be folded in a book. When spread Intangible Heritage 37 | 38

Tightrope Walking, The Flower of Folk Yard Show

Text by Heo Yong-ho, HK Research Professor, Chonnam National University Photos by National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage

1 Intangible Heritage 39 | 40

who worked at government offices at fixed keeping time with the rhythmic movements 4. Kneeling down on a rope. places, and the other type from wandering of the walker and enlivening the atmosphere entertainers, who performed while travel- by playing exciting tunes. ing from place to place. The former type has been independently designated as Important As a full-scale show lasts the whole after- Intangible Cultural Property No. 58, and the noon, it has to be carefully organized with latter as one of the six performing art genres acrobatics, narratives and music to main- of Namsadang Nori, or the arts of the itiner- tain the audience’s interest and stifle yawns. ant troupe of male clowns, which are Impor- Tightrope walking, in this regard, is not a 4 tant Intangible Cultural Property No. 3. simple presentation of rope techniques but an age-old form of integrated performing dialogue between the rope walker and the Role of the Rope Walker arts and entertainment. clown, who constantly interact with the au- 2 dience. In other words, the Korean tightrope Tightrope walking, however, is not a one- How the Show is Organized show is not a unilateral presentation of fun 1. A folk music ensemble The Origin and Types accompanies a tightrope man show. The rope walker, called jul gwang- and thrill but two-way communication be- performance. A traditional Korean tightrope performance Tightrope walking, or jultagi, refers to the art dae, obviously is the center of attention but tween the performers and spectators, where 2. A tightrope walker per- begins with setting up two wooden poles on of not only walking, but singing, dancing or he needs other artists collaborating on the the participants can adjust the routine to the forms. either side of the show yard and tying a straw performing acrobatics, while narrating funny ground, such as the musicians to accompany atmosphere of the show. rope on them. Before getting on to the rope, stories, on a single thin rope suspended be- his acrobatic feats and funny narratives and The show is for the enjoyment of both the the walker makes it sure to conduct a simple tween two points. Records mentioning this a clown to retort to his remarks or answer performers and spectators. And this is what rite to pray to his teacher and seniors to seek art began to appear during the Goryeo period questions as a dialogue companion. makes Korean tightrope walking unique and (918-1392), using scores of different names for their guidance and help so the show suc- A tightrope performance is usually accom- significant. in Chinese characters. All of the names com- ceeds and the audience is blessed with health panied by a wind and percussion ensemble, monly mean “performing daring feats on a and happiness. called samhyeon yukgak, which typically rope,” but still alluding to the diversity of consists of two cylindrical obe (piri), long When the rite is completed, the ensemble feats through different expressions. transverse flute (daegeum), two-string zither starts playing the opening tune and the walk- Traditional tightrope walking handed down (haegeum), hourglass drum (janggu) and er climbs up to the rope, where he hushes the in Korea comes in two types: One type has barrel drum (buk). The ensemble, seated audience as well as the musicians. As silence been passed down from professional actors, under the rope, plays an indispensable role, falls and everyone watches with curiosity, he

3. A tightrope walker ex- begins his show, first exchanging funny jokes ecutes acrobatic feats. with the clown on the ground to build up the mood. He starts with simpler feats, gradually moving to more difficult acrobatics such as 5. Somersaulting on a rope. bouncing up and down from the rope, tum- bling and somersaulting, and sitting on the rope with his legs crossed. He displays some 40 different rope techniques. Between his feats he cracks jokes and sings songs while the audience catches its breath from the nail- biting maneuvers.

The Korean traditional tightrope walking is distinguished from similar arts of other countries in that it is not all about demonstrating 3 a series of rope techniques but proceeds with 5 Natural Heritage 41 | 42

Life with Big Old Trees Text by Lee Eun-bok, Member of the Cultural Heritage Committee Photos by National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage

1 Natural Heritage 43 | 44

awarded titles of government officials or be- 3. A ginkgo tree, some 1,100-1,500 years old, on queathed with material property. A magnifi- the grounds of Yongmunsa cent ginkgo tree, some 1,100 to 1,500 years Temple, was conferred the title of dangsanggwan, an old and reaching 67 meters in height, on the official of major third rank grounds of Yongmunsa Temple in Yangpyeo- or higher, by the government of Joseon. ng, Gyeonggi Province, was endowed the title dangsanggwan, meaning an official of major third rank or higher, during the reign of King Sejong in the early 15th century. A pine tree near the entrance to Beopjusa Tem- ple in Mount Songni, North Chungcheong Province, was awarded major second rank, or jeong ipum, by King Sejo in the latter part of the 15th century.

No less famous is a tax-paying pine named Seok Song-nyeong, meaning “stone pine spirit,” in Cheonhyang-ri, in Yecheon, sx- 3 North Gyeongsang Province. Designated Natural Monument No. 294, this pine tree is to leave his property and to carry on his of the species Pinus densiflora for multicaulis family lineage. One day in 1928, while in (Japanese umbrella pine), called bansong in deep sleep, he heard a voice saying, “Don’t Korean, so it is not so tall with the height of worry.” So he looked around but could see 11 meters and the trunk is 3.7 meters around nobody but an old tree. “Did the tree speak at chest level. Instead, this tree grows to the to me?” Startled, he woke up. He was dream- 2 sides; branches split at the bottom of the ing. 1. The pine tree awarded trunk to extend 19.4 meters from east to west Spiritual Companions In Korea’s founding mythology, Hwanung, Right after waking up from his dream, the the major second-rank title and 26 meters from north to south, creating a by the king, on Mt. Songni, the son of the heavenly god, descended to a old man headed to the county office, where Ancient Koreans believed that big old trees shaded area over 1,071 square meters. South Chungcheong Prov- sacred sandalwood tree on Mount Taebaek, he gave the name Seok Song-nyeong to the ince, designated Natural had spirits or souls of their own, as did which is now Mount Baekdu. In the Dano Monument No. 103. mountains, rivers, rocks and home sites. According to legend handed down in the pine tree and registered 2,000 pyeong (some Festival in Gangneung, it is still believed 4. A zelkova tree, assumed 2. A pine tree named Seok They worshipped such trees as divine trees village, this pine tree was planted some 600 6,600 square meters) of land, which was his that the heavenly spirit descends through a to be some 520 years old, Song-nyeong, in Yecheon, years ago by a man who happened to find it entire fortune, under its name. Hence the tree in Uiryeong, South Gyeo- North Gyeongsang Prov- and the spirits residing in them as tree spirits. branch of the old tree venerated as the vil- became a landed resident, who even paid ngsang Province. ince, pays tax in its name. The custom of tree worship is a form of old floating down a stream during a big flood. lage shrine. The tree branch is respectfully It is Natural Monument folk belief that naturally developed in early The tree grew big enough to provide shade No. 294. carried to the ritual site so the rites can begin agrarian society. for villagers resting underneath it. As years to propitiate the heavenly spirit and pray for went by, the villagers came to regard the A big tree yielding abundant fruit might have peace and abundance for the community. Big tree as the village shrine and have since con- old trees, regardless of kind, have often been been regarded as a symbol of fecundity and ducted communal rites under the tree on the a tree reaching high into the sky was thought considered to be abodes of spiritual forces eve of the year’s first full moon every year to to be an intermediary that connected humans that can cause blessings or misfortunes for pray for peace and prosperity in the village. to the heavens. Tree worship was widespread humans. in primitive societies not only in Korea but What made this tree famous was not its age Personified Trees Japan and China and throughout the Western or size, however. In the 1920s, an old man world, though it seemed somewhat promi- Big old trees were often objects of deifica- who lived in the village, named Yi Su-mok, nent in the three Northeast Asian countries. tion and even personification. Some were was always worried that he had no children 4 C M Y K

WorldNatural Heritage Heritage in Korea

taxes and offered scholarships to local stu- headquarters located here during the Joseon dents with income from its land. Dynasty. Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage AdministrationYecheon has an even richer tree in another The first story goes that, when the military village in Geumnam-ri. This Chinese hack- headquarters to defend the province’s 53 berry, some 500 years old, is named Hwang counties and towns was first built in 1417, Mok-geun and owns land about twice that?of under the reign of King Taejong, all big trees the pine tree Seok Song-nyeong. in the nearby areas had to be felled to meet the huge demand for timber. But this nutmeg Keeping Soldiers Healthy tree was still too small with crooked branch- A beautiful nutmeg tree in Gangjin, South es at the time. So it survived the massive fell- Jeolla Province, assumed to be some 800 ing and, as the old saying goes, the ugly tree years old, is said to have played a role in not kept the mountain. only providing spiritual health to the local More plausible, however, is the second sto- community but to national defense as well. ry, which says this tree was saved because This magnificent tree, standing 32 meters tall it produced the essential anthelmintic for the and measuring 7.2 meters around the trunk at troops. In the old days when there was no chest level, has a gorgeous crown extending effective parasiticide, the nutmeg seed was some 25 meters from east to west and some useful for curing soldiers suffering stomach 23 meters from north to south. Regarding the ache. role played by this tree, which is under state care as Natural Monument No. 39, two dif- Regardless of which role it has actually played Quarterly Magazine ferent stories are handed down in the region, over the centuries, the old nutmeg tree stands of the Cultural Heritage Administration both related with the provincial military proudly on a hill at the back of the village, as Cultural Heritage Administration, Republic of Korea 5. An old nutmeg tree is if overseeing its safety. revered as a community Tel | 82-42-481-4731 Fax | 82-42-481-4759 Witnesses to History guardian spirit in Samin- http://english.cha.go.kr ri, Gangjin County, South Jeolla Province. The big old trees are invaluable natural assets as well as stalwart companions of villag- Published | November 25, 2010 ers, which have experienced the vicissitudes Published by | Cultural Heritage Administration of history alongside them over hundreds of Republic of Korea years. Modern science has yet to achieve the Publication | Yi Kyung-hoon technology to decipher the delicate vestiges management Director of International Affairs Division of blissful events and catastrophes that have Content | Yeo Sung-hee, Park Jung-eun, Kim Min-ok been engraved in the fibers of these long- Cover coordination living trees. This is one of the reasons why Translation | Lee Kyong-hee The cover design features tightrope walk- we humans bear the huge responsibility to Proofreading | Ted Chan ing. Black symbolizes winter. The symbol- carefully look after the big trees around us ism originates from the traditional “five Design Editing | Graphic Korea Co., Ltd Winter 2010 Vol. 3 No. 4 and hand them over to future generations. ∙ directional colors” based on the ancient Printed by | Graphic Korea Co., Ltd Chinese thought of wuxing, or ohaeng in Korean. The colors were associated with Cultural Heritage Administration, 2010 seasons and other phenomena in nature, including the fate of humans. For a story This publication is copyrighted. No part may be reproduced by any process without written permission. about tightrope walking, see Page 37. 5 copyright Cultural Heritage Administration KOREAN HERITAGE is also available on the website. ( http://english.cha.go.kr )