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Východní Florencie 87 Piazza della Signoria, Uffi zi, nejlepší umělecká galerie v Evropě, a změť středověkých uliček vedoucích k chrámu Santa Croce Východní Florencie Úvod a mapa 88–89 Piazza della Signoria 90–93 Orsanmichele 104–105 Procházka z náměstí Piazza della Signoria k Sant’Ambrogio 106–107 Santa Croce 108–114 Zážitek: Věnujte se ve Florencii intenzivnímu studiu 115 Další zajímavá místa ve východní Florencii 116 –118 Zážitek: Žijte s Florenťany 118 Hotely a restaurace 309–310 Hrob rytíře na podlaze uvnitř chrámu Santa Croce 88 VÝCHODNÍ FLORENCIE Východní Florencie Piazza della Signoria je místem, kam se budete vracet stále znovu, což je dědic- tvím role, pro niž bylo toto náměstí navrženo – dát Florencii prostor pro setkávání a vybudovat sídlo světské moci (v kontrastu k moci náboženské). Na východ stojí Santa Croce, jeden z nejvznešenějších chrámů v Itálii, jenž je domovem mnoha proslulých děl a hrobů některých nejzajímavějších postav Florencie. Palazzo Vecchio, stavba z počátku 14. st., je Mnoho návštěvníků však spěchá ústředním bodem náměstí, monolit ve stylu podél paláce a neodolatelně je při- hradu, který sloužil jako sídlo vládnoucích tahuje umělecky významnější orgánů města a v průběhu staletí i mnoha vábnička, přilehlá Galleria degli zdejších despotů. Uvnitř lze navštívit řadu Uffi zi, která je domovem krásně zařízených místností, které se mohou pochlubit několika uměleckými poklady, PINTI včetně mistrovských sochařských kusů od Donatella a Michelangela. O G OR B V IA . C. TI L I N A I DE' I P RIN V A F ANA VIA O PILA S G I A SOL R NT E O I S VIA DELL 'E TR G B IUOL ’O ID F RI IO I A D. U I OLO A LZA I VIA ROMA V V CA VIA DEL CORSO BORGO DEGLI ALBIZI PIAZZA G. VIA PIETRAPIANA SALVEMINI Orsanmichele Mercato delle Pulci VIA DEI PANDOLFINI I RI Palazzo PIAZZA DEI Vecchio RD VIA V I A E CIOMPI D G V E L LLEG H I L ' V. PORTA ROSSA B E A G A L L N O I N LO PIAZZA A . I Loggia SAN PIAZZA Casa C della FIRENZE G C DELLA Buonarroti O Signoria IA V A SIGNORIA G I A B O V M R GO OR ' DE' B G R E PIAZZA E C I D SANTA CROCE I A VIA DI I N Loggia del Grano I E A VI L V C Santa S I A . GIU Ponte EL N Croce IA D T D E SEPPE Vecchio V S E I I NER B CA . ' A E I BECH L Galleria Museo Galileo–Museo di E L A IA I E degli Uffizi Storia della Scienza D L PIAZZA L C V D U ORS G N PIAZZA DE' GIUDICI G O A A R D N O MENTANA A E M G I I T E N INT A . D I A V ORI I Z Museo Horne V LU NG. D. GRA ZIE PIAZZA DEI LUNG. DELL TE CAVALLEGGERI E ZEC E CA N LE O AZI P AL GR Arno Arno 0 200 metrů Poloha oblasti MUSEO NAZIONALE DEL BARGELLO 89 nejlepší světové sbírky renesančních obrazů. Jde patrně o místo, které byste měli ve Flo- rencii navštívit, i kdyby vám na nic jiného NENECHTE SI UJÍT: nezbyl čas, avšak galerii v podstatě každý Zmrzlinu u „Fontana del Nettuno“ na Piazza della Signoria 91 den obléhají stovky návštěvníků. Nechce-li Giambolognův „Únos Sabinek“ se vám stát ve frontách, zavolejte na spe- a Celliniho „Perseus“ v Loggia ciální telefonní číslo a rezervujte si místo della Signoria 93 dopředu (viz str. 98). Návštěvu sálu Salone dei Až budete přesyceni obrazy, jděte zpět Cinquecento a kaple Cappella na Piazza della Signoria a dopřejte si zde di Eleonora v Palazzo Vecchio 94–95 chvíli času. Od východního okraje se táhne Vychutnejte si umění v sálech řada krásných soch z různých období. 1 až 14 v galerii Uffi zi 95–101 Sochy před Orsanmichele a svatostánek v jeho V interiéru 104–105 IA G IUSE Hrobky a kaple Bardi a Peruzzi, PPE Santa Croce 108–113 G IU ST Prohlédněte si vědecky zaměřenou I V výstavu v Museo Galileo 116–117 GI IA O P. PIAZZA RDA NI MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO Naproti paláci Vecchio se nachází Rivoire, A jedna ze známějších (a nákladnějších) kavá- TONAI ren ve městě, kde si lze dopřát drink a pro- T Tempio I C Israelitico MA hlédnout si náměstí i s jeho překotným UC D spěchem. CAR A Tento oddech není nijak náhodný, pro- G. A I Sant’ ELL tože náměstí již dlouho slouží jako přiro- V D Ambrogio zené místo pro dostaveníčka. Od nejstarších B O RGO LA C dob se zde konala politická shromáždění PIAZZA ROCE LORENZO IA a festivaly – poblíž býval římský amfi teátr – V PIAZZA GHIBERTI CESARE V BECCARIA a v časech krizí sem zvon z paláce Vecchio IA F. Mercato PAO svolával zástupy lidí. Na jižní straně náměstí Sant’Ambrogio L IER I Piazza della Signoria stojí otevřená sochař- V IA V D A I ELL' I A AL ská galerie Loggia della Signoria či Loggia G N O LO AL E GH T I dei Lanzi. IBELLINA E GI N Z náměstí je vhodné vydat se na krátkou I O VANN E cestu zpět k Piazza del Duomo a prozkou- IN IOV AS C G mat snadno přehlédnutelný kostel Orsanmi- A I L AM chele, pro jeho venkovní sochy a poklidný EL D V M IA E středověký interiér s majestátním svatostán- A LCO DEI E N L N D TEN A T I O kem ze 14. st. Odtud směrem na východ lze I V LA jedněmi z nejstarších a nejpůsobivějších PIAZZA PIAVE VECCHIA ulic ve středu Florencie dojít k Santa Croce LUNGARNO PECORI a do stejnojmenné čtvrti – severně odtud GIRALDI leží okrsek Sant’Ambrogio – v níž se nachá- Pescaia di zejí některé z nejzajímavějších obchůdků, San Niccolò E Ò tržišť, barů a restaurací ve městě. T L N N A CO O S P C I N 90 VÝCHODNÍ FLORENCIE Piazza della Signoria Na náměstí Piazza della Signoria se tyčí Palazzo Vecchio, po sedm století sídlo fl o- rentské vlády. Stojí zde několik významných soch a jde rovněž o místo setkávání návštěvníků i Florenťanů. Nedaleko se nachází vchod do nejpozoruhodnějšího fl orentského muzea, Uffi zi. Piazza della Původně se prostranství rozklá- stála fullonica, kolosální řím- Signoria dalo poblíž srdce starobylého ská budova určená k barvení A mapa na str. 88–89 římského města: nedaleko a výrobě textilu. Všechny tři G autobus: C2 od divadla a terme (lázeň- stavby spolu s kostelem San na Via della ského komplexu) a na jižním Romolo (sv. Romula), podloubí Condotta okraji náměstí (směrem k řece) a veliká raně křesťanská bazilika z 5. st. byly zničeny, zasypány nebo v průběhu staletí roze- brány na kameny. Kořeny samotného náměstí obestírají mýty. Oblast prý pat- řívala rodu Uberti, předním postavám jedné z mnoha fl o- rentských soupeřících frakcí guelfů a ghibellinů (viz str. 28). Když byl rod v roce 1268 pora- žen, došlo ke zkonfi skování jeho pozemků a jeho majetek byl spálen. Postupně byla vět- šina oblasti vydlážděna, údajně proto, aby rod Uberti nemohl na svém bývalém území stavět. Poté byly tyto pozemky pova- žovány za poskvrněné, což byl patrně jeden z důvodů, proč oblast zaostávala v rozvoji a proč má dnes náměstí tak neobvyklý a asymetrický tvar. Ve skutečnosti je tvar náměstí patrně výsledkem postupného vývoje. Práce na náměstí začaly ve větší míře v roce 1307, kdy město vyhradilo malý prostor pro Palazzo dei Priori, sněmovnu městské rady, která se postupně rozrostla do současné budovy Palazzo Vecchio. Volba místa – „Marzocco“ hlídá kopii Michelangelova „Davida“, která v jedné linii a poblíž náměstí nahradila originál (ten je nyní v Galleria dell’Accademia) Piazza del Duomo – byla pro- PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA 91 myšlená. Dnes toto původní mem a císařem a napomohla tak náměstí koresponduje s otevře- spojení slávy starého Říma se slá- ným prostorem přímo na sever vou Florencie v 16. st. Tři reliéfy od Palazzo Vecchio. na základně sochy připomínají Práce na náměstí se později klíčové události Cosimovy kari- ve 14. st. z velké části zastavily, éry: fl orentský senát mu přisu- když se úsilí města soustředilo zuje fl orentské vévodství (v roce na stavby Palazzo dei Priori 1537), vchází do poraženého a Loggia della Signoria. Dobové města Sieny (1555) a od papeže záznamy mluví o zdejších oblastech jako o lepším sta- veništi plném sutě a teprve TIP ZNALCE: po roce 1385 dostalo náměstí Palazzo Vecchio své první ochranné dláždění. je jedním z muzeí, Po roce 1560 utrpělo další která nabízejí nové změny, když Cosimo I. provedl extravagantní úpravy galerie a inovativní prohlídky Uffi zi, a dále v roce 1871, kdy byla s průvodcem. Navštivte zbořena středověká Loggia dei stránky musefi renze.it, Pisani, aby otevřela náměstí smě- rem na západ. Necitlivé zásahy kde naleznete nejnovější pokračovaly až do 80. let 20. st., informace. kdy kontroverzní archeologické – CRAIG KISYLIA, vykopávky vedly k odstranění přispěvatel do National Geographic původních středověkých dlažeb- ních kamenů. Mnoho z těchto kamenů následně „zmizelo“, Pia V. získává titul velkovévody pravděpodobně bylo načerno toskánského (1569). prodáno a dnes dláždí příjez- Cosimo se objevuje znovu dové cesty k mnoha vilám v tos- v podobě Neptuna na ved- kánské krajině. lejší soše Fontana del Net- tuno, či Neptunova fontána Sochy (1563–1575). Dílo Bartolommea Nejpozoruhodnějším rysem Ammannatiho a jeho asistentů náměstí jsou dnes – s výjimkou (včetně Giambologni) zesměš- budovy Palazzo Vecchio – sochy nil Michelangelo, když prohlásil: a Loggia della Signoria. Když sto- „Ammannato, Ammannato, jak jíte čelem k Palazzo Vecchio, tyčí krásný kus mramoru jsi zničil.“ se sochy zleva doprava podél Florentští tomuto dílu přezdívají východního okraje náměstí.
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