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Il Made in Italy Nel Mercato Del Lusso in Giappone

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Il Made in Italy Nel Mercato Del Lusso in Giappone Il made in Italy nel mercato del lusso in Giappone PUBBLICAZIONE PERIODICA DELLA QUADERNI CAMERA DI COMMERCIO ITALIANA IN GIAPPONE ALLAAA LUGLIO2013 Con il contributo del Ministero dello Sviluppo Economico 2 / 97 The Italian Chamber of Commerce in Japan Enokizaka Building 3F, 1-12-12 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 Tel. +81 (0)3.3560.1100 - Fax +81 (0)3.3560.1105 - [email protected] www.iccj.or.jp 3 / 97 SOMMARIO GIAPPONE: INFORMAZIONI GENERALI ...................................................................... 7 GIAPPONE: QUADRO MACROECONOMICO E INDUSTRIALE ..................................... 8 IL MERCATO DEL LUSSO IN GIAPPONE .................................................................... 10 IL BOOM E LA CRESCITA DEGLI ULTIMI TRENT’ANNI 10 CAMBIAMENTI E TENDENZE NEL MERCATO ATTUALE 11 Da “anche io” a “prima io” 11 Varietà dei brand di tendenza 12 Cosa c’è sull’etichetta? 12 L’effetto smeraldo 12 LA PERCEZIONE DEL MARCHIO “MADE IN ITALY” IN GIAPPONE 13 I risultati 14 IL MERCATO DELL’ABBIGLIAMENTO IN GIAPPONE: CARATTERISTICHE GENERALI . 17 LA DONNA E LA MODA 17 L’UOMO E LA MODA 19 TENDENZE: FAST FASHION 20 ACCESSORI ............................................................................................................... 21 PELLETTERIA 21 Caratteristiche generali del mercato 21 Statistiche di importazione 22 Distribuzione e promozione 24 Analisi dei prodotti 24 OCCHIALI 25 Caratteristiche generali del mercato 25 Statistiche di importazione 27 Distribuzione e promozione 27 Analisi dei prodotti 28 The Italian Chamber of Commerce in Japan Enokizaka Building 3F, 1-12-12 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 Tel. +81 (0)3.3560.1100 - Fax +81 (0)3.3560.1105 - [email protected] www.iccj.or.jp 4 / 97 ALTRI ACCESSORI 29 Calze 29 Accessori per capelli 29 Nail art 30 Keitai charms 31 GIOIELLI 32 Caratteristiche del mercato 32 Andamento dei brand d’importazione 34 Il nuovo trend dei brand stranieri 35 Gli ultimi mesi 35 Canali di distribuzione 37 Caratteristiche dei prodotti 38 ASPETTI DI DISTRIBUZIONE ..................................................................................... 39 I PRINCIPALI CANALI 39 CANALI MINORI ED EMERGENTI 42 PROMOZIONE E MARKETING IN GIAPPONE ............................................................ 44 CONSIDERAZIONI SULL'INGRESSO NEL MERCATO GIAPPONESE E SUI METODI DI MARKETING 44 Stagionalità 45 Struttura fisica 45 Scelta della location e dello store 45 Packaging 46 Rapporto con il cliente e assistenza post-vendita 47 Lotti di produzione 47 Standard di qualità 48 VEICOLI DI PROMOZIONE 48 Riviste 48 Fiere 69 The Italian Chamber of Commerce in Japan Enokizaka Building 3F, 1-12-12 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 Tel. +81 (0)3.3560.1100 - Fax +81 (0)3.3560.1105 - [email protected] www.iccj.or.jp 5 / 97 Le missioni commerciali 71 TRACCIABILITÀ DEL MARCHIO IN GIAPPONE .......................................................... 73 ETICHETTATURA 73 Il panorama legislativo 73 Le etichettature volontarie 74 Protezione del marchio 74 Legge sulla responsabilità del prodotto 75 Legge del design ( ishô-hô ) 75 Il licensing dei marchi 76 Legge del marchio ( shôhyô-hô ) 76 Registrazione del marchio collettivo ( dantai shôhyô ) 77 Marchi di servizio 78 Marchi non registrabili 78 Il marchio noto 78 Legge di prevenzione della concorrenza sleale 78 Il processo di registrazione 78 Tasse per la domanda di registrazione ( tôroku-ryô ) 79 Registrazione internazionale dei marchi 79 Validità e durata della registrazione del marchio 79 Cancellazione dei marchi 80 Tutela del made in Italy 80 IL VANTAGGIO STRATEGICO DEL MADE IN ITALY NEI MERCATI GLOBALI ............... 82 Il settore del lusso e la lotta con il mercato globale 82 Fast luxury 83 Cos’è il made in Italy? 86 “Italianità” del fashion italiano 87 Struttura base del made in Italy 89 Il vantaggio strategico del made in Italy 92 The Italian Chamber of Commerce in Japan Enokizaka Building 3F, 1-12-12 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 Tel. +81 (0)3.3560.1100 - Fax +81 (0)3.3560.1105 - [email protected] www.iccj.or.jp 6 / 97 Dal globale al locale 92 Da “fast” a “slow” 93 Made in Italy e sostenibilità 94 ALCUNE DELLE IMPRESE ITALIANE DEL SETTORE DEL FASHION IN GIAPPONE ........ 97 The Italian Chamber of Commerce in Japan Enokizaka Building 3F, 1-12-12 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 Tel. +81 (0)3.3560.1100 - Fax +81 (0)3.3560.1105 - [email protected] www.iccj.or.jp 7 / 97 GIAPPONE: INFORMAZIONI GENERALI Popolazione : 126,659,683 Superficie : 377,944 kmq Capitale: Tokyo Principali centri urbani : Osaka, Nagoya, Yokohama, Sapporo, Kobe, Kyoto, Fukuoka Lingua : giapponese Valuta : yen giapponese (JPY) Tasso di cambio medio nel 2012 : 1 euro (EUR) ＝ 106.75 yen (JPY) Tasso di cambio medio nel 2013 (gen-aug) : 1 euro (EUR) ＝ 126.69 yen (JPY) Sistema di governo: monarchia costituzionale The Italian Chamber of Commerce in Japan Enokizaka Building 3F, 1-12-12 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 Tel. +81 (0)3.3560.1100 - Fax +81 (0)3.3560.1105 - [email protected] www.iccj.or.jp 8 / 97 GIAPPONE: QUADRO MACROECONOMICO E INDUSTRIALE Il 2012 ha visto indicatori economici sostanzialmente stabili (e deboli) per i primi tre trimestri, in risonanza con la generale debolezza dei mercati mondiali e l’incertezza sulla crescita industriale, accompagnata da una crescente preoccupazione sul consistente calo delle esportazioni a seguito del caro-yen e delle tensioni con la Cina. Il rapporto debito/PIL, dal 220% a inizio anno, è ulteriormente incrementato fino a sfiorare il 240%, anche in seguito agli stimoli per la ricostruzione conseguenti al grande terremoto del 2011. Gli stessi interventi hanno però anche potuto mantenere su livelli di crescita moderati il prodotto interno lordo, che ha sfiorato il 5,7% all’inizio dell’anno e si è poi attestato sull’1,5% in termini nominali, sebbene il dato aggregato mascheri il rallentamento deciso che l’economia giapponese ha registrato negli ultimi mesi, fino a raggiungere lo stato di recessione tecnica. I prezzi al consumo hanno continuato la loro lenta discesa (-0,1%) seguendo un trend che è ormai, con alcune eccezioni, di decenni. D’altro canto il livello dei salari appare stabile, e sul fronte dell’occupazione è continuato il recupero di posti di lavoro dallo shock finanziario del 2009. A seguito del cambio di governo – che ha riportato alla leadership con una schiacciante maggioranza lo schieramento del Partito Liberal-Democratico, guidato dal già primo ministro Shinzo Abe – la fine del 2012 è stata comunque segnata da una decisa politica di lotta alla deflazione tramite lo strumento dello stimolo economico, nonostante i rischi derivanti per l’aumento ulteriore del debito. L’intervento, che ha anche invertito il trend valutario degli ultimi quattro anni (-45% sul rapporto EUR/JPY dal 2008) portando l’Euro a 114 yen a fine anno, non ha comunque impedito l’appellativo di “anno nero” per le esportazioni. Limitando l’analisi all’Italia, nel corso del 2012, le esportazioni sono calate del 31% per dimensione in yen rispetto all’anno precedente e del 40% rispetto al 2010; precedentemente all’attuale crisi (2007) il volume degli scambi complessivi tra i due paesi era di oltre il 55% maggiore. Dal punto di vista del commercio estero giapponese in generale, le previsioni per il 2013 sono di una crescita modesta, caratterizzata dalla diminuzione del volume di affari con la Cina, un incremento del commercio con il Sud Est asiatico e da un generale aumento delle esportazioni dovute all’indebolimento dello yen. Dal punto di vista del rapporto fra Italia e Giappone, a causa della svalutazione dello yen è da prevedersi entro la fine dell’anno un’inversione nel trend dei flussi commerciali (nel corso del 2012, il flusso verso l’Italia è calato del 31% per dimensione in yen rispetto all’anno precedente e del 40% rispetto al 2010), mitigata da effetti di inerzia e dal perdurare della crisi economica italiana, che incentiva la ricerca di sbocchi all’estero per la produzione interna e diminuisce il potere di acquisto complessivo. The Italian Chamber of Commerce in Japan Enokizaka Building 3F, 1-12-12 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 Tel. +81 (0)3.3560.1100 - Fax +81 (0)3.3560.1105 - [email protected] www.iccj.or.jp 9 / 97 L’Italia è al 18°posto per valore di interscambio con il Giappone: ca. 6380 mld Euro nell’anno fiscale giapponese 2012 – il 3°Paese UE dopo Germania (10°) e Francia (15°) Variazione apr 2013 / apr 2012: Import da Italia +15% VS Export verso Italia -0,3% Tabella 1 - Principali importazioni italiane in Giappone The Italian Chamber of Commerce in Japan Enokizaka Building 3F, 1-12-12 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 Tel. +81 (0)3.3560.1100 - Fax +81 (0)3.3560.1105 - [email protected] www.iccj.or.jp 10 / 97 IL MERCATO DEL LUSSO IN GIAPPONE IL BOOM E LA CRESCITA DEGLI ULTIMI TRENT’ANNI I beni di lusso stranieri hanno cominciato a trasformare la realtà giapponese già dagli anni Ottanta, periodo in cui ha iniziato a manifestarsi anche un forte interesse verso i prodotti made in Italy. Per riuscire a scoprire il segreto del successo delle aziende italiane, negli anni Ottanta una famosa rivista giapponese pubblicò una ricerca approfondita sulle aziende operanti in Veneto, Lombardia ed Emilia. La risposta a cui giunsero fu che il fattore principale su cui queste imprese poggiavano era una cultura del prodotto molto forte e una storia artigianale e artistica molto antica, e che i prodotti italiani erano frutto di una lunga cooperazione e una “cross fertilisation ” tra cultura, arte, artigianato, abilità manifatturiera e territorio. 1 Lo scoppio della bolla economica negli anni Novanta ha portato a un lungo periodo di recessione economica e alla perdita della sicurezza dei posti di lavoro a vita, fattori che hanno contribuito a creare una rottura con i valori sociali tradizionali, a cui si deve aggiungere il cambiamento di status da parte delle donne, che hanno iniziato a preferire la carriera alla famiglia e a essere più indipendenti.
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