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Clothing Fantasies: a Case Study Analysis Into the Recontextualization and Translation of Subcultural Style
Clothing fantasies: A case study analysis into the recontextualization and translation of subcultural style by Devan Prithipaul B.A., Concordia University, 2019 Extended Essay Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts in the School of Communication (Dual Degree Program in Global Communication) Faculty of Art, Communication and Technology © Devan Prithipaul 2020 SIMON FRASER UNIVERSITY Summer 2020 Copyright in this work rests with the author. Please ensure that any reproduction or re-use is done in accordance with the relevant national copyright legislation. Approval Name: Devan Prithipaul Degree: Master of Arts Title: Clothing fantasies: A case study analysis into the recontextualization and translation of subcultural style Program Director: Katherine Reilly Sun-Ha Hong Senior Supervisor Assistant Professor ____________________ Katherine Reilly Program Director Associate Professor ____________________ Date Approved: August 31, 2020 ii Abstract Although the study of subcultures within a Cultural Studies framework is not necessarily new, what this research studies is the process of translation and recontextualization that occurs within the transnational migration of a subculture. This research takes the instance of punk subculture in Japan as a case study for examining how this subculture was translated from its original context in the U.K. The frameworks which are used to analyze this case study are a hybrid of Gramscian hegemony and Lacanian psychoanalysis. The theoretical applications for this research are the study of subcultural migration and the processes of translation and recontextualization. Keywords: subculture; Cultural Studies; psychoanalysis; hegemony; fashion communication; popular communication iii Dedication Glory to God alone. iv Acknowledgements “Ideas come from pre-existing ideas” was the first phrase I heard in a university classroom, and this statement is ever more resonant when acknowledging those individuals who have led me to this stage in my academic journey. -
Willieverbefreelikeabird Ba Final Draft
Háskóli Íslands Hugvísindasvið Japanskt mál og menning Fashion Subcultures in Japan A multilayered history of street fashion in Japan Ritgerð til BA-prófs í japönsku máli og menningu Inga Guðlaug Valdimarsdóttir Kt: 0809883039 Leðbeinandi: Gunnella Þorkellsdóttir September 2015 1 Abstract This thesis discusses the history of the street fashion styles and its accompanying cultures that are to be found on the streets of Japan, focusing on the two most well- known places in Tokyo, namely Harajuku and Shibuya, as well as examining if the economic turmoil in Japan in the 1990s had any effect on the Japanese street fashion. The thesis also discusses youth cultures, not only those in Japan, but also in North- America, Europe, and elsewhere in the world; as well as discussing the theories that exist on the relation of fashion and economy of the Western world, namely in North- America and Europe. The purpose of this thesis is to discuss the possible causes of why and how the Japanese street fashion scene came to be into what it is known for today: colorful, demiurgic, and most of all, seemingly outlandish to the viewer; whilst using Japanese society and culture as a reference. Moreover, the history of certain street fashion styles of Tokyo is to be examined in this thesis. The first chapter examines and discusses youth and subcultures in the world, mentioning few examples of the various subcultures that existed, as well as introducing the Japanese school uniforms and the culture behind them. The second chapter addresses how both fashion and economy influence each other, and how the fashion in Japan was before its economic crisis in 1991. -
Modemagazine in Japan
CORE Metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk Provided by Saitama University Cyber Repository of Academic Resources Fȱውɨ ዄĞ༳ʧૡዅȱۀÏŹƂʧ͗ Modemagazine in Japan Lars Bertramb Modemagazine sind neben der Vermittlung von Trends auch ein Gradmesser für die kulturelle Entwicklung einer Gesellschaft, da sich die individuelle Freiheit in der modischen Ausdrucksform widerspiegelt. Diese setzte erst gegen Ende des neunzehnten Jahrhunderts allmählich ein. In dieser Zeit wurden auch die heute noch führenden westlichen Modezeitschriften wie die amerikanische Harper`s BAZAAR (1867) oder die Vouge (1893) herausgebracht. Die Bandbreite der japanischen Modezeitschriften wird neben den großen Standardtiteln von vielen Trendmagazinen beherrscht, die nicht selten mit einer zoku (Ŧ) bzw. Subkultur in Verbindung stehen wie z. B. an-an oder non-no. Daneben gibt es Zeitschriften, die lediglich als roter Faden durch den Markenwald führen und den Kunden über neue Geschäfte, Produkte oder Modenschauen auf dem Laufenden halten. Die wichtigsten Magazine Als erste Modezeitschrift in Japan wurde 1936 von der Modeschule Bunka das Magazin Sōen herausgegeben, das die neueste Mode aus dem Westen vorstellte. Das Konzept war (ˎٍ) jedoch nur auf eine modeinteressierte weibliche Kundschaft ausgerichtet und diente mit ausführlichen Schnittmusterbögen hauptsächlich als Anleitungsheft zum Schneidern. Die ersten reinen Männermagazine kamen erst in den fünfziger Jahren mit Danshisenka (ɵʖ̞ Ŕ) und Men´s Club an die Kioske. Unter den anspruchsvolleren Magazinen, die neben Mode auch Kunst und japanische Tradition vorstellen, hat die 1958 gegründete Zeitschrift Kateigahō (˥°ɹî) Pionierarbeit geleistet. Das eigentliche Zeitalter der Modemagazine begann jedoch in den siebziger Jahren, als die auch heute noch beliebten und führenden Frauenmagazine wie non-no und an-an herauskamen. -
Evolution of Male Self-Expression. the Socio-Economic Phenomenon As Seen in Japanese Men’S Fashion Magazines
www.ees.uni.opole.pl ISSN paper version 1642-2597 ISSN electronic version 2081-8319 Economic and Environmental Studies Vol. 18, No 1 (45/2018), 211-248, March 2018 Evolution of male self-expression. The socio-economic phenomenon as seen in Japanese men’s fashion magazines Mariusz KOSTRZEWSKI1, Wojciech NOWAK2 1 Warsaw University of Technology, Poland 2 Copernicus University in Toruń, Poland Abstract: Visual aesthetics represented in Western media by the name of “Japanese style”, is presented from the point of view of women’s fashion, especially in the realm of pop-culture. The resources available for non- Japanese reader rarely raise the subject of Japanese men’s fashion in the context of giving voice to self- expression by means of style and clothing. The aim of this paper is to supplement the information on the socio- economic correlation between the Japanese economy, fashion market, and self-expression of Japanese men, including their views on masculinity and gender, based on the profile of Japanese men’s fashion magazines readers. The paper presents six different fashion styles indigenous to metropolitan Japan, their characteristics, background and development, emphasizing the connections to certain lifestyle and socio-economic occurrences, resulting in an emergence of a new pattern in masculinity – the herbivorous man, whose requirements and needs are analyzed considering his status in the consumer market and society. Keywords: salaryman, kireime kei, salon mode kei, ojii boy kei, gyaru-o kei, street mode kei, mode kei, sōshokukei danshi, sōshoku danshi, Non-no boy, Popeye boy, the city boy, Japan, fashion, consumer market JEL codes: H89, I31, J17, Z00 https://doi.org/10.25167/ees.2018.45.13 Correspondence Address: Mariusz Kostrzewski, Faculty of Transport, Warsaw University of Technology, Koszykowa 75, 00-662 Warszawa, Poland. -
Media Industries and Related Research/ Japan
Department of Communication University of Helsinki Mapping Media and Communication Research: Japan Communication Research Center, University of Helsinki Department of Communication, Research Reports 4/2007 Dr. Katja Valaskivi Publisher: Type of publication: Communication Research Center, Department of Research report Communication; University of Helsinki Helsingin Sanomat Foundation Researchers: ISBN 978-952-10-4044-3 (nid.) Dr. Katja Valaskivi ISBN 978-952-10-4045-0 (PDF) Research assistant Hiromi Tsuji Research Project: Number of pages: 98 Mapping Media and Communication Research in Seven Countries Communication Research Center CRC Language: Director: Dr. Juha Herkman English Title of Report: Mapping Media and Communication Research: Japan Abstract: The objective of the report is to provide a general overview of media and communication research in Japan. The project maps the main institutions and organizations, approaches and national characteristics of the media and communication research in Japan. The gathering and analysis of the data has been carried out during the spring of 2007. The sample consists of secondary data in the form of previous studies and existing statistics, as well as primary data such as interviews of key persons in media and communication research branches and media industry. The report examines the media and communication research conducted at the most prominent research universities, the research published by academic associations, and those conducted by the largest public and private research institutes and think tanks with affiliations to some of the largest Japanese media companies. It also gives a general outline of the historical development and the current situation of the Japanese media industry and market, including reference to current content and user trends. -
The Art of Impression Management in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community
Georgia State University ScholarWorks @ Georgia State University Anthropology Theses Department of Anthropology 12-17-2014 The Fashion of Frill: The Art of Impression Management in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community Chancy J. Gatlin [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarworks.gsu.edu/anthro_theses Recommended Citation Gatlin, Chancy J., "The Fashion of Frill: The Art of Impression Management in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community." Thesis, Georgia State University, 2014. https://scholarworks.gsu.edu/anthro_theses/87 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Department of Anthropology at ScholarWorks @ Georgia State University. It has been accepted for inclusion in Anthropology Theses by an authorized administrator of ScholarWorks @ Georgia State University. For more information, please contact [email protected]. THE FASHION OF FRILL: THE ART OF IMPRESSION MANAGEMENT IN THE ATLANTA LOLITA AND JAPANESE STREET FASHION COMMUNITY by CHANCY J. GATLIN Under the Direction of Emanuela Guano, PhD ABSTRACT The Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community is a multifaceted fashion community that developed in the early 2000s. The majority of the members wear Lolita fashion which is a fusion of Victorian era dress, Rococo costume, and various Japanese street fashions. Lolita fashion developed on the streets of Tokyo Japan in the 1990s and has since spread across the world. The Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community heavily relies on the building and maintenance of impressions by its members. In this thesis, I analyze face-to-face and virtual community organization, fashion, and photography to illustrate how members of the community build their impressions, how they are maintained, or how they are threatened. -
El Colegio De México IDENTIDADES JUVENILES DE HARAJUKU Y SU
El Colegio de México IDENTIDADES JUVENILES DE HARAJUKU Y SU REPRESENTACIÓN FOTOGRÁFICA EN LA REVISTA FRUiTS Tesis presentada por ITZEL VALLE PADILLA en conformidad con los requisitos establecidos para recibir el grado de MAESTRA EN ESTUDIOS DE ASIA Y ÁFRICA ESPECIALIDAD EN JAPÓN Centro de Estudios de Asia y África 2009 Índice 1. Introducción............................................................................................................ 2 2. Difusión de modelos identitarios a través de la imagen 2.1 Imagen, industria cultural y medios de comunicación en Japón........................... 8 2.2 Vendiendo FRUiTS al mundo: Aoki Shōichi …………………………………….11 3. Conformación de identidades juveniles en Harajuku 3.1 Harajuku: espacio de identidad y consumo............................................................ 16 3.2 Identidades urbanas y juveniles de Tokio............................................................... 25 4. Representación fotográfica y construcción de identidades híbridas 4.1 La imagen fotográfica............................................................................................. 33 4.2 La representación y el retrato................................................................................. 36 4.3 Identidades híbridas de Harajuku.......................................................................... 40 4.4 Análisis de imágenes de la revista FRUiTS……………………………………… 53 5. Conclusión............................................................................................................... 60 6. Fuentes -
SKU Product Issues Years Price 45532 10 Magazine (UK) 4 1
SKU Product Issues Years Price 45532 10 Magazine (UK) 4 1 $99.00 45533 10 Men (UK) 4 1 $99.00 45535 18 Karati (Italy) 6 1 $159.00 48210 25Ans (Japan) 12 1 $259.00 51800 2nd (Japan) 12 1 $259.00 45179 4TH D Wellbeing 12 1 $60.00 51633 5280 (Denver) Magazine 12 2 $12.00 51634 5280 Home 6 2 $9.00 45761 Abitare (Italy) 11 1 $259.00 51635 Accent West 12 2 $17.98 3158 Acoustic Guitar 6 3 $40.00 63158 Acoustic Guitar - Digital 6 3 $40.00 44101 Acres USA 12 2 $39.00 1108 Action Comics 12 1 $29.99 4446 ADDitude 4 1 $19.95 48361 Adventist Review 12 1 $36.95 61653 Adweek - Print + Digital 33 1 $149.00 51905 Aero 12 1 $29.99 45834 Aesthetica (UK) 6 1 $99.00 45222 AFAR 6 3 $14.00 45334 Affordable Housing Finance 6 1 $119.00 42696 African American Golfers Digest 4 3 $48.00 61636 African Voices (2 print + 1 digital issue) 3 1 $22.50 40031 Against the Current 6 2 $30.00 51879 AgPro 12 1 $45.00 4779 Ahora 6 1 $34.95 313 Alaska 10 2 $24.00 2 Alfred Hitchcock's Mystery 6 1 $34.97 4772 Allons-y! 6 1 $34.95 40151 Alpinist 4 2 $49.95 48481 Alter Ego 6 1 $69.00 40984 Alternative Medicine 6 1 $19.95 1066 Amazing Spider-Man 12 1 $29.99 3366 America The Jesuit Review 14 1 $58.00 51415 American Bungalow 4 2 $34.95 61145 American Cake Decorating - Digital 6 2 $29.00 42678 American Conservative 6 1 $59.95 62678 American Conservative - Digital 6 1 $24.95 47005 American Craft 6 2 $50.00 48451 American Digger 6 2 $37.95 4922 American Farmhouse Style 6 2 $29.95 44517 American Fly Fishing 6 1 $29.95 61480 American Football Monthly - Digital 6 1 $20.00 4919 American Frontiersman -
Intellectual Capital for Communities - Fourth Edition
HOW TO IMPLEMENT THE KNOWLEDGE ECONOMY PRINCIPLES ～Japanese perspective～ Keita Nishiyama METI, Japan May, 2008 World Conference on Intellectual Capital for Communities - Fourth Edition - 1 22-23 May 2008 -Background -What’s missing in financial information? -Elements of Intellectual Assets based Management -Experiences in Japan -Efforts in the World -Next Step & WICI 22-23 May 2008 World Conference on Intellectual Capital for Communities 2 - Fourth Edition - Era of Differentiation & Intellectual Assets (IAs) Aging economy with Global competition Knowledge Economy less population → Emerging economies →Intangible →Smaller domestic are more cost-competitive market assets became more valuable Creating values/profits by making products or services different from others is essential for business. IA based management which realizes the differentiation through utilizing company’s unique IAs for sustainable profits has become more critical. note：IAs include human resources, organizational capabilities, technology, and relational capital. 22-23 May 2008 World Conference on Intellectual Capital for Communities 3 - Fourth Edition - Elements of IA Financial Assets Intellectual Assets Corporate Assets Classification of Intellectual Assets Human Boundary of company Cliental Financial Capital/Assets Money ＮＷ Organi zation Human Assets Facilities Intellectual Capital/Assets Technology/IP Brand/ reputation Relational Assets Organizational Creation for Value / Profit Assets 22-23 May 2008 World Conference on Intellectual Capital for Communities 4 - Fourth -
The Socio-Economic Phenomenon As Seen in Japanese Men's
A Service of Leibniz-Informationszentrum econstor Wirtschaft Leibniz Information Centre Make Your Publications Visible. zbw for Economics Kostrzewski, Mariusz; Nowak, Wojciech Article Evolution of male self-expression: The socio- economic phenomenon as seen in Japanese men's fashion magazines Economic and Environmental Studies (E&ES) Provided in Cooperation with: Opole University Suggested Citation: Kostrzewski, Mariusz; Nowak, Wojciech (2018) : Evolution of male self- expression: The socio-economic phenomenon as seen in Japanese men's fashion magazines, Economic and Environmental Studies (E&ES), ISSN 2081-8319, Opole University, Faculty of Economics, Opole, Vol. 18, Iss. 1, pp. 211-248, http://dx.doi.org/10.25167/ees.2018.45.13 This Version is available at: http://hdl.handle.net/10419/193082 Standard-Nutzungsbedingungen: Terms of use: Die Dokumente auf EconStor dürfen zu eigenen wissenschaftlichen Documents in EconStor may be saved and copied for your Zwecken und zum Privatgebrauch gespeichert und kopiert werden. personal and scholarly purposes. Sie dürfen die Dokumente nicht für öffentliche oder kommerzielle You are not to copy documents for public or commercial Zwecke vervielfältigen, öffentlich ausstellen, öffentlich zugänglich purposes, to exhibit the documents publicly, to make them machen, vertreiben oder anderweitig nutzen. publicly available on the internet, or to distribute or otherwise use the documents in public. Sofern die Verfasser die Dokumente unter Open-Content-Lizenzen (insbesondere CC-Lizenzen) zur Verfügung gestellt haben sollten, If the documents have been made available under an Open gelten abweichend von diesen Nutzungsbedingungen die in der dort Content Licence (especially Creative Commons Licences), you genannten Lizenz gewährten Nutzungsrechte. may exercise further usage rights as specified in the indicated licence. -
Girls Changing the Language a Comparison Between the Meiji Schoolgirls and the Present Day Kogals Elin Nilsson
Centre for Languages and Literature – Japanese studies JAPK11 Spring 2013 Girls changing the language a comparison between the Meiji schoolgirls and the present day kogals Elin Nilsson Supervisor: Lars Larm Abstract When girls in Japan acquired the right to higher education in the wake of the Meiji reformation in the 19th century, these girls began to talk in a way that was considered vulgar by the public. It was called teyo dawa kotoba (teyo dawa speech) – and over time it became what we call female speech today. During the Meiji and Taisho periods proper ladies did not talk that way, and it was considered to be vulgar slang. Today that is the way proper ladies are expected to talk. Teyo dawa kotoba was not considered to be female speech until the 1930s. Kogals (a subculture of girls in their late teens) have been around since early 1990s, and they have their own vocabulary also considered to be vulgar slang – are there any signs that the same thing is happening today? Are present day Japanese people aware of which words they use (if any) that originated as kogal slang? If not, can this be considered the beginning of a similar assimilation of slang of teenage girls? A comparison between the Meiji schoolgirls and the present day kogals is possible and certain similarities can be found at just a quick glance. Keywords: kogal, kogyaru, gyaru, teyo dawa, jogakusei, Meiji schoolgirl, slang, Japanese, Japan ii Contents Abstract……………………………………………………………………………………………………………ii 1. Introduction………………………………………………………………………………………………1 1.1. The topic……………………………………………………………………………………………….1 1.2. Data & Methodology…………………………………………………………………………………..2 2. Language change…………………………………………………………………………………………2 2.1 Driving forces………………………………………………………………………………………….2 2.2 Why are the girls important?…………………………………………………………………………..3 3. -
Tokyo Ribelle: Processi Di Formazione Delle Subculture Giovanili Di Shibuya E Harajuku
Corso di Laurea magistrale (ordinamento ex D.M. 270/2004) in Lingue e civiltà dell'Asia e dell'Africa Mediterranea Tesi di Laurea Tokyo Ribelle: Processi di formazione delle subculture giovanili di Shibuya e Harajuku Relatore Prof.ssa Roberta Novielli Correlatore Prof.ssa Paola Scrolavezza Laureando Federica Zaghini Matricola 827802 Anno Accademico 2014/ 2015 要旨 本論文の目的は東京におけるユースサブカルチャー（若者文化）を分析するため、その 原因と素因を検討することである。特に、渋谷の「ギャル」サブカルチャーと原宿の「ロ リータ」と「デコラ」サブカルチャーを代表とした若者文化の特徴を考慮することにした。 日本の若者文化を分析した理由は、渋谷や原宿から生まれた若者文化はパンク（punk）や ゴス（goth）など西洋の若者文化と比べると、唯一の特性を持ち、現在では自分のアイデ ンティティーを確立するための手段として世界中の若者たちに影響を与えるからである。 本論の講成については次の通りである。 はじめに、序論でユースサブカルチャーについて基本的な概念を紹介する。第一章でメ インカルチャーとサブカルチャーの違いを説明した上で、ヘブディジ氏の作品による「象 徴」の概念も紹介する。次に、日本の戦争後の社会的な状態を解析し、若者文化の発生の 原因にさかのぼる。これまでの研究では、サブカルチャーは社会、景気、また価値の危機 状況から発生する現象であると言われており、危機状況に直面してしまう若者たちはどの ように反応するか、またそれに対し社会はどのように変化するかについて詳しく分析して いく。 続いて、第二章ではユースサブカルチャーに影響を与えた基本要素を検討する。日本社 会では「世間体」という概念は重要だと考えられている。しかし、若者文化といえば、普 通とは異なる外見であろう。このことについて、第一の基本要素と考えられる日本社会に おける「一様性」を考慮していく。次に、調査された若者文化は女性のほうが優位である ため、「かわいい文化」や「少女文化」などの女性文化はどのような影響を与えたか、そ してなぜ「かわいい」という概念は反抗的な性質があるといえるかなどを分析する。 また、８０年代の半ば、ポケベルをはじめ、ＰＨＳ、携帯電話など新しい通信が開発され ると共に、人間関係も変化を示している。従って、「ギャル文字」や「ポケ言葉」など若 者たち以外に分からない暗語が生み出され、サブカルチャーのコミュニケーション方法を 感化したのである。さらに、以上述べたように、若者文化の外見は特異であるし、サブカ ルチャーの異様なファッションはコスプレと誤解することがよくある。異様なスタイルに もかかわらず、サブカルチャーのファッションはただの遊びではなく、自分のアイデン 2 ティティーを確立する方法だといえる。 そこで、第三章では若者たちはどのようにして東京の場所と関係を作るようになること について考慮してく。サブカルチャーの種類は場所によって異なるため、難波功士氏の研 究による「族」と「系」という種類の違いを詳しく検討する。 最後に、第四章では第三章までに検討された基本要素を通じ、サブカルチャーについて さらに分析していく。まず第一に、「ギャル」サブカルチャーを中心にしてその起源、反