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Clothing Fantasies: a Case Study Analysis Into the Recontextualization and Translation of Subcultural Style
Clothing fantasies: A case study analysis into the recontextualization and translation of subcultural style by Devan Prithipaul B.A., Concordia University, 2019 Extended Essay Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts in the School of Communication (Dual Degree Program in Global Communication) Faculty of Art, Communication and Technology © Devan Prithipaul 2020 SIMON FRASER UNIVERSITY Summer 2020 Copyright in this work rests with the author. Please ensure that any reproduction or re-use is done in accordance with the relevant national copyright legislation. Approval Name: Devan Prithipaul Degree: Master of Arts Title: Clothing fantasies: A case study analysis into the recontextualization and translation of subcultural style Program Director: Katherine Reilly Sun-Ha Hong Senior Supervisor Assistant Professor ____________________ Katherine Reilly Program Director Associate Professor ____________________ Date Approved: August 31, 2020 ii Abstract Although the study of subcultures within a Cultural Studies framework is not necessarily new, what this research studies is the process of translation and recontextualization that occurs within the transnational migration of a subculture. This research takes the instance of punk subculture in Japan as a case study for examining how this subculture was translated from its original context in the U.K. The frameworks which are used to analyze this case study are a hybrid of Gramscian hegemony and Lacanian psychoanalysis. The theoretical applications for this research are the study of subcultural migration and the processes of translation and recontextualization. Keywords: subculture; Cultural Studies; psychoanalysis; hegemony; fashion communication; popular communication iii Dedication Glory to God alone. iv Acknowledgements “Ideas come from pre-existing ideas” was the first phrase I heard in a university classroom, and this statement is ever more resonant when acknowledging those individuals who have led me to this stage in my academic journey. -
Willieverbefreelikeabird Ba Final Draft
Háskóli Íslands Hugvísindasvið Japanskt mál og menning Fashion Subcultures in Japan A multilayered history of street fashion in Japan Ritgerð til BA-prófs í japönsku máli og menningu Inga Guðlaug Valdimarsdóttir Kt: 0809883039 Leðbeinandi: Gunnella Þorkellsdóttir September 2015 1 Abstract This thesis discusses the history of the street fashion styles and its accompanying cultures that are to be found on the streets of Japan, focusing on the two most well- known places in Tokyo, namely Harajuku and Shibuya, as well as examining if the economic turmoil in Japan in the 1990s had any effect on the Japanese street fashion. The thesis also discusses youth cultures, not only those in Japan, but also in North- America, Europe, and elsewhere in the world; as well as discussing the theories that exist on the relation of fashion and economy of the Western world, namely in North- America and Europe. The purpose of this thesis is to discuss the possible causes of why and how the Japanese street fashion scene came to be into what it is known for today: colorful, demiurgic, and most of all, seemingly outlandish to the viewer; whilst using Japanese society and culture as a reference. Moreover, the history of certain street fashion styles of Tokyo is to be examined in this thesis. The first chapter examines and discusses youth and subcultures in the world, mentioning few examples of the various subcultures that existed, as well as introducing the Japanese school uniforms and the culture behind them. The second chapter addresses how both fashion and economy influence each other, and how the fashion in Japan was before its economic crisis in 1991. -
Evolution of Male Self-Expression. the Socio-Economic Phenomenon As Seen in Japanese Men’S Fashion Magazines
www.ees.uni.opole.pl ISSN paper version 1642-2597 ISSN electronic version 2081-8319 Economic and Environmental Studies Vol. 18, No 1 (45/2018), 211-248, March 2018 Evolution of male self-expression. The socio-economic phenomenon as seen in Japanese men’s fashion magazines Mariusz KOSTRZEWSKI1, Wojciech NOWAK2 1 Warsaw University of Technology, Poland 2 Copernicus University in Toruń, Poland Abstract: Visual aesthetics represented in Western media by the name of “Japanese style”, is presented from the point of view of women’s fashion, especially in the realm of pop-culture. The resources available for non- Japanese reader rarely raise the subject of Japanese men’s fashion in the context of giving voice to self- expression by means of style and clothing. The aim of this paper is to supplement the information on the socio- economic correlation between the Japanese economy, fashion market, and self-expression of Japanese men, including their views on masculinity and gender, based on the profile of Japanese men’s fashion magazines readers. The paper presents six different fashion styles indigenous to metropolitan Japan, their characteristics, background and development, emphasizing the connections to certain lifestyle and socio-economic occurrences, resulting in an emergence of a new pattern in masculinity – the herbivorous man, whose requirements and needs are analyzed considering his status in the consumer market and society. Keywords: salaryman, kireime kei, salon mode kei, ojii boy kei, gyaru-o kei, street mode kei, mode kei, sōshokukei danshi, sōshoku danshi, Non-no boy, Popeye boy, the city boy, Japan, fashion, consumer market JEL codes: H89, I31, J17, Z00 https://doi.org/10.25167/ees.2018.45.13 Correspondence Address: Mariusz Kostrzewski, Faculty of Transport, Warsaw University of Technology, Koszykowa 75, 00-662 Warszawa, Poland. -
Fashion Talks… Back Issues As of November 9, 2020 *For Actual Stock, Please Refer to “List of Our Current Stock”
Fashion Talks… Back Issues As of November 9, 2020 *For actual stock, please refer to “List of our current stock”. Fashion Talks... SPRING 2015 / VOL. 1[underwear] ■Pleasure and Anxiety over a Piece of Cloth by Naoyuki KINOSHITA ■Reception of Western-style Underwear in the Taisho and Early Showa Period by Mihoko AOKI ■Eyes over Underwear in the Western History by Shigeru KASHIMA ■Fashion through the KCI Collection: Underwear from 18th Century to 1920s ■Virility, Enhancement and Men's Underwear by Shaun COLE ■NEW ACQUISITIONS [EXHIBITION REVIEWS] □Wardrobe Momories by Mizuki TSUJI □Hippie Chic / Dufy / Bishojo: Young Pretty Girls in Art History / Ages of Sarasa / Spirit of Life in the North of Japan □World of Corset at the KCI Gallery Fashion Talks... AUTUMN 2015 / VOL. 2[underwear 2] ■Public Underwear and Private Underwear by Yoshiko TOKUI ■About so-called Chirarism by Syoichi INOUE ■Pass by man and woman and panty by Chizuko UENO ■Fashion through the KCI Collection 2 ■NEW ACQUISITIONS ■Craze and Shame: Rubber Clothing during the Nineteenth Century in Paris, London, and New York City by Manuel CHARPY [EXHIBITION REVIEWS] Jeanne Lanvin/Déboutonner la mode Fashion Talks... SPRING 2016 / VOL. 3[economy 1] ■An establishment process and the present of the department store in Europe by Seiichi KITAYAMA ■The fashion industry prehistory of mode city Paris by Nao TSUNODA ■Fashion through the KCI Collection 3 ■The modernization of consumption and The Initial department store in Japan by Yuki JINNO ■The formation of the apparel industry in Japan by Akihiro KINOSHITA ■NEW ACQUISITIONS [EXHIBITION REVIEWS] Jean Paul Gaultier/Dries Van Noten. -
Modern Japanese Fashion
Loretta Gray Social Studies/English Language Arts Grades 6, 7, 8 Section 5: Modern Japanese Fashion Purpose: Students will be introduced to traditional and contemporary Japanese fashion; and explore Japan and Japanese street fashion to become aware of popular examples of Japanese street fashion trends. There will be discussions on contemporary Japanese fashion and its meaning to the younger generation in Japan (e.g. cosplay, youth culture and high fashion culture). Students will be able to: Identify/ locate/color/label Japan on a world map/globe Describe clothing/garments Draw street fashion garments Write descriptive summaries Create fashion scrapbooks Duration: Two 40 minute class periods (Two-day focus) Materials: World Map or Globe (teacher) Map of Japan (students) Japan and Japanese Street Fashion KWL graphic organizer (attached) Colored pencils Pencils Notebook paper Double pocket 3-ring folders Glue Scissors White paper Computer w/Internet access Essential Questions (Two-Day Focus) What do you know about Japan? What do you want to know? What have you learned? What continent is Japan located on? Where is Japan? What types of clothes are popular? Who wears the styles? Introduction to the History/Culture of Japan: Japanese Fashion When talking about fashion in Japan it is just impossible not to acknowledge the fact that the Japanese have an incredible sense of style. Fashion plays a huge role in the lives of the Japanese because they have a special outlook towards clothing. In Japan, fashion is considered as a way to express yourself, set your own style, and show others that you are aware of the newest trends. -
The Art of Impression Management in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community
Georgia State University ScholarWorks @ Georgia State University Anthropology Theses Department of Anthropology 12-17-2014 The Fashion of Frill: The Art of Impression Management in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community Chancy J. Gatlin [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarworks.gsu.edu/anthro_theses Recommended Citation Gatlin, Chancy J., "The Fashion of Frill: The Art of Impression Management in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community." Thesis, Georgia State University, 2014. https://scholarworks.gsu.edu/anthro_theses/87 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Department of Anthropology at ScholarWorks @ Georgia State University. It has been accepted for inclusion in Anthropology Theses by an authorized administrator of ScholarWorks @ Georgia State University. For more information, please contact [email protected]. THE FASHION OF FRILL: THE ART OF IMPRESSION MANAGEMENT IN THE ATLANTA LOLITA AND JAPANESE STREET FASHION COMMUNITY by CHANCY J. GATLIN Under the Direction of Emanuela Guano, PhD ABSTRACT The Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community is a multifaceted fashion community that developed in the early 2000s. The majority of the members wear Lolita fashion which is a fusion of Victorian era dress, Rococo costume, and various Japanese street fashions. Lolita fashion developed on the streets of Tokyo Japan in the 1990s and has since spread across the world. The Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community heavily relies on the building and maintenance of impressions by its members. In this thesis, I analyze face-to-face and virtual community organization, fashion, and photography to illustrate how members of the community build their impressions, how they are maintained, or how they are threatened. -
An Introduction to Japan's Contemporary Youth Apparel Market
An Introduction to Japan’s Contemporary Page 1 of 10 Youth Apparel Market Drafted by: Intern Mai Yoshioka Edited by: Specialist Yoshiko Okamoto October 2015 Overview of Japan's Youth Apparel Market Introduction Japan is famous for being the land of eccentric fashion. While most may think of Harajuku Style fashion introduced by Gwen Stefani’s Harajuku Girls, many trends dominate Japan’s fashion scene. In the mid 1990’s young women started frequenting tanning salons to excessively tan themselves, and dressed themselves in neon pink and yellow adorned with white hair and excessive make-up. In the early 90’s, young women dressed in bodycon style, standing for “body conscious clothing.” These form-fitting dresses were paired with heels and feather fans when enjoying nightlife. Other fashion styles include Mori-kei (mythical emerging from forest attire), Gothic/Sweet/Punk Lolita styles, Rockabilly (those who dress like 50’s rockers), Dekora (bright colored casual outfits with cute accessories), gyaru (girly glam style with short skirts, bright colors), and Visual-Kei (a style influenced by rock and punk with lots of leather and bulky silver accessories). Anything can go in Japan in regards to fashion. Some note that years of wearing uniforms and strict rules for workplace attire invite individuals to express their creativity on weekends and after working hours. Many do so by enjoying creative fashion styles. Most students do not get to wear clothes of their choice until college, and therefore many refer to college as a “fashion debut.” Of course, a majority of the population does stick to fashion trends that are not so different from the rest of the world-- but with an extra edge of what the Japanese call kawaii or cute. -
101 CC1 Concepts of Fashion
CONCEPT OF FASHION BFA(F)- 101 CC1 Directorate of Distance Education SWAMI VIVEKANAND SUBHARTI UNIVERSITY MEERUT 250005 UTTAR PRADESH SIM MOUDLE DEVELOPED BY: Reviewed by the study Material Assessment Committed Comprising: 1. Dr. N.K.Ahuja, Vice Chancellor Copyright © Publishers Grid No part of this publication which is material protected by this copyright notice may be reproduce or transmitted or utilized or store in any form or by any means now know or here in after invented, electronic, digital or mechanical. Including, photocopying, scanning, recording or by any informa- tion storage or retrieval system, without prior permission from the publisher. Information contained in this book has been published by Publishers Grid and Publishers. and has been obtained by its author from sources believed to be reliable and are correct to the best of their knowledge. However, the publisher and author shall in no event be liable for any errors, omission or damages arising out of this information and specially disclaim and implied warranties or merchantability or fitness for any particular use. Published by: Publishers Grid 4857/24, Ansari Road, Darya ganj, New Delhi-110002. Tel: 9899459633, 7982859204 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Printed by: A3 Digital Press Edition : 2021 CONTENTS 1. Introduction to Fashion 5-47 2. Fashion Forecasting 48-69 3. Theories of Fashion, Factors Affecting Fashion 70-96 4. Components of Fashion 97-112 5. Principle of Fashion and Fashion Cycle 113-128 6. Fashion Centres in the World 129-154 7. Study of the Renowned Fashion Designers 155-191 8. Careers in Fashion and Apparel Industry 192-217 9. -
Bibliography
Bibliography Art Exhibits, Film, Music, Performances, and Television Sources Ai no Koriida (In the realm of the senses). Film directed by Kshima Nagisa, 1976. “Burando (Brand).”Serialized television drama produced and directed by Wada Kk. Japan, 2000. Frank Chickens. “We Are Ninja (Not Geisha).” LP Record Album. Produced by Kaz Records, 1984. Heaven 17.“Geisha Boys and Temple Girls.”Album title: Pavement Side. Produced by Virgin Records, 1981. Ippai no kakesoba (A bowl of buckwheat noodles). Film directed by Nishikawa Katsumi, 1992. Jitsuroku Abe Sada (The true story of Abe Sada). Film directed by Tanaka Noboru, 1975. Lynn, Vera. Lynn, Vera Singer, 2004 [cited 26 April]. Available from Ͻhttp://www.lyricsxp. com/lyrics/w/we_ll_meet_again_vera_lynn.htmlϾ Nagasaki University Database of Old Photographs of the Bakumatsu-Meiji Period. Online at Ͻhttp://oldphoto.lb.nagasaki-u.ac.jp/unive/Ͼ “New Cosmos of Photography” (Shashin shin-seiki) sponsored by Canon, 1995 Gallery Exhibition Report. Online at Ͻhttp://www.canon.com/scsa/newcosmos/gallery/1995/Ͼ Parker, Ross and Hughie Charles. We’ll Meet Again, 2004 [cited 26 April]. Available from Ͻhttp://ingeb.org/songs/wellmeet.htmlϾ Revolutionary Girl Utena (Shkjo kakumei Utena). Animation. Japanese TV series April 2–December 24, 1997; movie, 1999. Sunayama, Norico. “English invitation for entering her installation, ‘Suffocating World.’ ” Art Tower Mito, 1999. Women in Japan: Memories of the Past, Dreams for the Future. Documentary film produced and directed by Joanne Hershfield and Jan Bardsley, 2002. Manga, Magazine, Newspaper, and Websites (no author given) “Abe Sada-Sakaguchi Ango taidan (Dialogue: Abe Sada-Sakaguchi Ango).” Zadan 1, no. 1 (1947): 30–35. -
The Socio-Economic Phenomenon As Seen in Japanese Men's
A Service of Leibniz-Informationszentrum econstor Wirtschaft Leibniz Information Centre Make Your Publications Visible. zbw for Economics Kostrzewski, Mariusz; Nowak, Wojciech Article Evolution of male self-expression: The socio- economic phenomenon as seen in Japanese men's fashion magazines Economic and Environmental Studies (E&ES) Provided in Cooperation with: Opole University Suggested Citation: Kostrzewski, Mariusz; Nowak, Wojciech (2018) : Evolution of male self- expression: The socio-economic phenomenon as seen in Japanese men's fashion magazines, Economic and Environmental Studies (E&ES), ISSN 2081-8319, Opole University, Faculty of Economics, Opole, Vol. 18, Iss. 1, pp. 211-248, http://dx.doi.org/10.25167/ees.2018.45.13 This Version is available at: http://hdl.handle.net/10419/193082 Standard-Nutzungsbedingungen: Terms of use: Die Dokumente auf EconStor dürfen zu eigenen wissenschaftlichen Documents in EconStor may be saved and copied for your Zwecken und zum Privatgebrauch gespeichert und kopiert werden. personal and scholarly purposes. Sie dürfen die Dokumente nicht für öffentliche oder kommerzielle You are not to copy documents for public or commercial Zwecke vervielfältigen, öffentlich ausstellen, öffentlich zugänglich purposes, to exhibit the documents publicly, to make them machen, vertreiben oder anderweitig nutzen. publicly available on the internet, or to distribute or otherwise use the documents in public. Sofern die Verfasser die Dokumente unter Open-Content-Lizenzen (insbesondere CC-Lizenzen) zur Verfügung gestellt haben sollten, If the documents have been made available under an Open gelten abweichend von diesen Nutzungsbedingungen die in der dort Content Licence (especially Creative Commons Licences), you genannten Lizenz gewährten Nutzungsrechte. may exercise further usage rights as specified in the indicated licence. -
Girls Changing the Language a Comparison Between the Meiji Schoolgirls and the Present Day Kogals Elin Nilsson
Centre for Languages and Literature – Japanese studies JAPK11 Spring 2013 Girls changing the language a comparison between the Meiji schoolgirls and the present day kogals Elin Nilsson Supervisor: Lars Larm Abstract When girls in Japan acquired the right to higher education in the wake of the Meiji reformation in the 19th century, these girls began to talk in a way that was considered vulgar by the public. It was called teyo dawa kotoba (teyo dawa speech) – and over time it became what we call female speech today. During the Meiji and Taisho periods proper ladies did not talk that way, and it was considered to be vulgar slang. Today that is the way proper ladies are expected to talk. Teyo dawa kotoba was not considered to be female speech until the 1930s. Kogals (a subculture of girls in their late teens) have been around since early 1990s, and they have their own vocabulary also considered to be vulgar slang – are there any signs that the same thing is happening today? Are present day Japanese people aware of which words they use (if any) that originated as kogal slang? If not, can this be considered the beginning of a similar assimilation of slang of teenage girls? A comparison between the Meiji schoolgirls and the present day kogals is possible and certain similarities can be found at just a quick glance. Keywords: kogal, kogyaru, gyaru, teyo dawa, jogakusei, Meiji schoolgirl, slang, Japanese, Japan ii Contents Abstract……………………………………………………………………………………………………………ii 1. Introduction………………………………………………………………………………………………1 1.1. The topic……………………………………………………………………………………………….1 1.2. Data & Methodology…………………………………………………………………………………..2 2. Language change…………………………………………………………………………………………2 2.1 Driving forces………………………………………………………………………………………….2 2.2 Why are the girls important?…………………………………………………………………………..3 3. -
Tokyo Ribelle: Processi Di Formazione Delle Subculture Giovanili Di Shibuya E Harajuku
Corso di Laurea magistrale (ordinamento ex D.M. 270/2004) in Lingue e civiltà dell'Asia e dell'Africa Mediterranea Tesi di Laurea Tokyo Ribelle: Processi di formazione delle subculture giovanili di Shibuya e Harajuku Relatore Prof.ssa Roberta Novielli Correlatore Prof.ssa Paola Scrolavezza Laureando Federica Zaghini Matricola 827802 Anno Accademico 2014/ 2015 要旨 本論文の目的は東京におけるユースサブカルチャー(若者文化)を分析するため、その 原因と素因を検討することである。特に、渋谷の「ギャル」サブカルチャーと原宿の「ロ リータ」と「デコラ」サブカルチャーを代表とした若者文化の特徴を考慮することにした。 日本の若者文化を分析した理由は、渋谷や原宿から生まれた若者文化はパンク(punk)や ゴス(goth)など西洋の若者文化と比べると、唯一の特性を持ち、現在では自分のアイデ ンティティーを確立するための手段として世界中の若者たちに影響を与えるからである。 本論の講成については次の通りである。 はじめに、序論でユースサブカルチャーについて基本的な概念を紹介する。第一章でメ インカルチャーとサブカルチャーの違いを説明した上で、ヘブディジ氏の作品による「象 徴」の概念も紹介する。次に、日本の戦争後の社会的な状態を解析し、若者文化の発生の 原因にさかのぼる。これまでの研究では、サブカルチャーは社会、景気、また価値の危機 状況から発生する現象であると言われており、危機状況に直面してしまう若者たちはどの ように反応するか、またそれに対し社会はどのように変化するかについて詳しく分析して いく。 続いて、第二章ではユースサブカルチャーに影響を与えた基本要素を検討する。日本社 会では「世間体」という概念は重要だと考えられている。しかし、若者文化といえば、普 通とは異なる外見であろう。このことについて、第一の基本要素と考えられる日本社会に おける「一様性」を考慮していく。次に、調査された若者文化は女性のほうが優位である ため、「かわいい文化」や「少女文化」などの女性文化はどのような影響を与えたか、そ してなぜ「かわいい」という概念は反抗的な性質があるといえるかなどを分析する。 また、80年代の半ば、ポケベルをはじめ、PHS、携帯電話など新しい通信が開発され ると共に、人間関係も変化を示している。従って、「ギャル文字」や「ポケ言葉」など若 者たち以外に分からない暗語が生み出され、サブカルチャーのコミュニケーション方法を 感化したのである。さらに、以上述べたように、若者文化の外見は特異であるし、サブカ ルチャーの異様なファッションはコスプレと誤解することがよくある。異様なスタイルに もかかわらず、サブカルチャーのファッションはただの遊びではなく、自分のアイデン 2 ティティーを確立する方法だといえる。 そこで、第三章では若者たちはどのようにして東京の場所と関係を作るようになること について考慮してく。サブカルチャーの種類は場所によって異なるため、難波功士氏の研 究による「族」と「系」という種類の違いを詳しく検討する。 最後に、第四章では第三章までに検討された基本要素を通じ、サブカルチャーについて さらに分析していく。まず第一に、「ギャル」サブカルチャーを中心にしてその起源、反